Archive through August 13, 2005
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Unregistered guest | I bought a D70 "package" with 18-70mm lens about 6 months ago together with the SB600 Speedlight. I thought I had the perfect addition to the F80. All is great, except with one exception: If I use the D70 in low light conditions, like a party or outdoors where the background is dark, the faces of the people I am photographing are "very flat" and colourless, even a "tweek" in Photoshop doesn't improve them much. This happens whether I use the "pop up" flash or the SB600 Speedlight. I have tried many experiments of altering the Custom Settings to no avail. Any suggestions...Please |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3099 Registered: Dec-03 | What settings do you use when you are shooting in that situation? |
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New member Username: VmaccabePost Number: 1 Registered: Jun-05 | When I am in Auto mode, my flash pops up, but doesn't fire. I can't figure out if there is some setting that turned it off, but if so, why does it still pop up? Also, the camera seems to know the flash isn't going to go off, because it chooses a slow shutter speed. Any ideas? |
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Unregistered guest | Thanks for quick reply. I set the: Program to "P", Matrix Metering ISO to 200, Color Mode = Ia (sRGB), Sharpening = +1 Medium High Tone = Auto Saturation = + Enhanced Hue = 0 Image Quality = Fine Image Sige = Large White Balance to = Flash Auto Focus = AF-S The exposure when viewed in the camera monitor seems dark, anything white is dull, faces of subjects are flat and lifeless. I would have thought the sophisticated SB600 would have adjusted the light output to compensate for the lack of other sources of light. Nikon kept the camera for a month!!! and said there was nothing wrong with it. Thanks again. |
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Unregistered guest | Sorry Bernie...An amendment to my previous setting. The Color Mode was II(Adobe RGB). Also, I see in a reply to another D70 user that you did not think the 18-70 kit was too good in low light conditions. Can you suggest a better lens. I have other Nikkor lenses. 28-104, 70-300, 85mm. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3104 Registered: Dec-03 | Set the SB600 to TTL/BL and see what happens. The sb-600 is not well suited for outdoor shots as the power is a little on the weak side that is why I sprang for the sb800. For low light I use the 50mm 1.8D and the excellent 70-200mmm f/2.8 AF-S VR or the 80-200mm f/2.8. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3105 Registered: Dec-03 | don't get me wrong, the 18-70 is an excellent all around lens but low light shooting requires better lenses with bigger aperture settings. the 18-70 works well with low light if you are using a tripod or rock steady hands. Also, if you are using the kit lens for low light shooting try spot or center weighted metering and meter on the dark part of the scene. You could also bump up the ISO setting. Try this and let me know. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3106 Registered: Dec-03 | Valerie, You may want to bring your camera to a service center or from the place of purchase. Sounds like a defective camera. |
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Unregistered guest | Hi Bernie, I increased the ISO to 600+, set the SB600 to TTL/BL, used "P" Program and changed the Color Mode to Ia (sRGB) for better skin tones as the manual say. The distance was less than 2 metres, not much for the SB600 to handle. The results were the same. I can send you examples to your email address if you like, my email is wilffaulkner@hotmail.com. I couldn't attach photo's to this service as they had to be 1K or less..is this right?!! Thanks. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3112 Registered: Dec-03 | You mentioned that the pictures were dull on the camera monitor? You really can't judge the picture by the monitor. also have you done a calibration of your computer monitor? Have you done prints yet? What is your level of experience with SLRs? |
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Unregistered guest | The prints are the same as the monitor. I showed them to a couple of processing labs and also to Nikon but they could not give me an answer, or didn't want to. My son also has just purchased a D70, same problem under low light conditions. I've had SLR's for some years, just a keen amateur. Nikon FE, FM2, F70, F65 & now for the last 2 years or so, my favourite, F80. We have just come back from lunch on Sydney Harbour. Beautiful day, very bright Winter sun. So, we sat under large umberella's for lunch and used fill in flash with the pop up Speedlight. Quality of photo ok, color good, but still needed to increase the "brightness" a bit with Photoshop. I used Centre Weighted Metering. I had none of these problems with the F80 using Fuji NPH 400. I did a couple of weddings last year, my son's in NY and another friend's here in Australia. The quality of all the photo's were beautiful. Guess, I just got to persevere and experiment to get it right. All good fun:-) |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3113 Registered: Dec-03 | WOW! Try to compensate 1/3 tp 2/3 stop. See what it does. I think the camera underexposes by that much on low light levels. Let see what you get  |
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Unregistered guest | Thanks Bernie, I haven't tried changing the EV yet, so that's worth a go. The light here in Australia is too bright and harsh most of the time. We are going to England soon and will look forward to the softer light generally to experiment with the D70. Will let you know the results. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3117 Registered: Dec-03 | How goes the experiment Wilf? |
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Unregistered guest | Hi Bernie, back at work today so haven't had a go at compensating with 1/3 or 2/3 stop. I have also priced a Nikkor 50mm 1.8D, only US$175-00. I think I think I will buy it as it is a great idea for the type of photo's I am having problems with. Thanks for your advice, I will get back to you. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3119 Registered: Dec-03 | Wilf, Check around for better prices on the 50mm 1.8D, as they can be had brand new for less than US$100. The 50mm 1.4D is aboutUS$200. |
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Silver Member Username: Joe_cOakwood, Ga Post Number: 407 Registered: Mar-05 | look at the reviews on those two lenses. Although you would suspect the 1.4 to have better optics, it does not. I use this 50 1.8 with my old 8008 for portraits rather that the 35-70 2.8, I get better results and clarity not to metion one more stop. |
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Unregistered guest | Bernie thanks. You must be in the States, costs more here in Oz. I'll hold off and see if I can get someone to bring one back or get it shipped out. |
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Unregistered guest | I've already a number of lens including 18-70,70-210,35-80 but I want to invest in a better zoom for a safari. Any suggestions what's best for the D70 - new lens, TC ??? Thanks |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3131 Registered: Dec-03 | Get the 70-200 f2.8 AF-S VR or the 80-400 AF-S VR. Excellent for safari work! Have fun! |
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ginger Unregistered guest | Flash Indicator light of D70s is always blinking - something wrong? Can't find any proper explanation in the manual. Somebody knows? Thanks! |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3137 Registered: Dec-03 | On what mode? P,M,A,S? Try the full auto mode and see if the flash pops up. The blinking flash usually means that the light is not enough and you need to use the flash on PMA&S modes. |
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ginger Unregistered guest | Hi Berny thanks for answering. I am outside, bright sunlight - P mode and the flash indicator in the viewfinder blinks. (Nothing else is wrong but the blinking indicator makes me nervous that some thing is wrong) The picture taken is perfectly exposed, but why is the indicator blinking. (The flash pops up and works OK inside and in dark conditions in the auto mode) Thanks for your reply! |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3140 Registered: Dec-03 | What metering mode are you using? Matrix, Spot or Center-weighted? |
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Anonymous | Berny, sorry was away from the machine for a little while! I am using Matrix mode. Wilfred |
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ginger Unregistered guest | Berny, sorry was away from the machine for a little while! I am using Matrix mode. Wilfred |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3141 Registered: Dec-03 | hmm. I am stumped I have not encountered this blinking flash indicator unless it is dark. And if there are dark shadows in the frame, reminding me to use fill flash. What is the setting on your flash mode? Does it do the same on the other modes? |
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ginger Unregistered guest | It is set to TTL |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3145 Registered: Dec-03 | Let me take out my D70 and play with it and see if that issue comes up. I'll get back with you. How old is the camera? |
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ginger Unregistered guest | camera is 1 week old - D70s |
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ginger Unregistered guest | Berny could it be that I get the thing flashing because of high contrasts outside - maybe it's just suggesting I could use a fill in flash to highlight the shadows? I am in the Caribbean!! |
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ginger Unregistered guest | Berny I will look for your answer tomorrow morning - it's 7.30pm over here and pitchdark outside. Thanks for giving your time helping me!!! W |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3146 Registered: Dec-03 | I am thinking the same thing, I occasionaly get the blinking flash need indicator on high contrast subjects. In the Caribbean?!! WOW |
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ginger Unregistered guest | Berny so you think the mystery is solved? Makes somehow sense and it's good to know that you get the contrast warning as well. So nothing to be worried about. Concerning the D70s in general - great camera once you get used to it, tends to overexpose a little bit, but great colors/image quality in general! And I din't even go down the NEF RAW road - yet!! Yes I live and work in the Grenadines - it is nice here!!! Thanks again!! W |
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Unregistered guest | Hi Berny: Sorry it's taken so long getting back to you.(Remember the D70 which wouldn't focus when the lens was between 35 & 18mm ( It's an 18-70mm lens). I sent it to Nikon on May 25 and they contacted me today and told me it was a lens problem. The contacts were dirty. That's strange because I don't think I had the lens off - I bought it on May 4th and sent it to Nikon on the 25th so i wasn't using it for very long. Anyway they tell me it's working fine now - guess I'll find out myself when I get it back - probably in another 3 weeks. Thanks for you interest and your help. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3155 Registered: Dec-03 | That is really good to hear! I'm glad things are working out with you and the Nikon guys. So what did you do during the time your camera was in the shop? |
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Unregistered guest | I have a Nikon F90X and a Nikon N80 to help me get by. The D70 was my first venture into digital photography and I chose the D70 because of my being able to use my 35mm lens with it. I had the opportunity to use the D70 only once (at a dance recital where I took about 300 individual and group pictures ) and I was pleased with the results. I'm hoping to use it for the weddings I am scheduled to do this summer - BUT - I think I'll take my other cameras along as well. |
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Unregistered guest | thanks for the advice - for my travels and for the money, is a teleconvertor + 70-200 f2.8 AF-S VR or the 80-400 AF-S VR better value. I want to invest wisely |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3156 Registered: Dec-03 | A back up camera is always a good idea. Tracey, The 70-200 with a teleconverter is always a great investment and the most versatile and both are great value lenses. But a safari almost cries out for the 80-400 VR with its outstanding reach. Tough call, but if given only 1 choice, hands down the 70-200 f2.8 VR. Great for low light shooting, too. |
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Unregistered guest | I put a AF-S Nikkor 18-70 mm lens on a D70 and i think the shutter-release has been disabled, but for some reason their is no power in the camera? not a sausage!! whats going on. Can anyone help please |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3169 Registered: Dec-03 | Do other lenses work? |
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Neal grundy Unregistered guest | Don't know. i don't have any other lenses to hand. I know now that i should of not put this lens on the D70. But I can't see why this would cut all the power out? and i can't find anywhere to tell me how to un-disable the shutter. Its all very odd |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3170 Registered: Dec-03 | consult your manual and check the term "mirror lock-up" |
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New member Username: HerveyDeerfield Beach, Fl US Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-05 | Help! My D70 will not turn on and the card light just blinks. There is no image in the control panel and the on/off switch has no effect. Does anyone have a fix for this? Thanks oney |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3174 Registered: Dec-03 | Use the factory reset button. Check your manual on how to do this. If the blinking is still happening, send it in to an authorized Nikon service center. |
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New member Username: JapanhuskerPost Number: 1 Registered: Jun-05 | Hey Berny, I just bought the D70 a couple months back and I have been using it with my iMac. Up to now, any enhancing I do is done with the basic iPhoto options. I would like to start tweaking the photos more, and also use/experiment with RAW images, however, so can you recommend any good Mac-compatible software that has the plug-ins that will allow me to do that? Also, I read in some of your posts above about "updating" the D70 software. I have no idea if I have the latest update and, if not, where to find it and how to do it. Any advice? Lastly, I have been trying to experiment with the P mode flexible programs by dialing the main selector wheel, but really cannot tell the difference in the pics. I am not sure what the camera is supposed to be changing nor where to look for that information, what the point is to the flexible programs anyway. Your help would be much appreciated. Yes, this is my first SLR camera. But so far, my inexperience aside, I love it. Thanks... |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3177 Registered: Dec-03 | For your photo manipualtion needs I highly recommend the Adobe Photoshop CS. A much better program than iPhoto. It will also get updated or come with the plug-ins for NEF/RAW files of the D70. If you need to update, you need to go to the Nikon USA Website and follow the instructions to the letter. The instructions are very specific so I suggest that you print it out before doing your upgrade. The P mode of the camera is also an automatic program but you can tweak the settings to take the photos that you want, plus you can choose to use the flash or not depending on the camera's recommendation. It also allows you to compensate for exposure in different stops. And get yourself a book on Photography and exposure techniques. It will help you out tremendously. I recommend a book by Thom Hogan on how to use your D70. It really shows you the ins and outs of the D70 and helps in its mastery. I usually use the P mode, Aperture priority, Shutter Priority, and manual...in that order, depending on what I want to achieve. cheers |
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New member Username: JapanhuskerPost Number: 2 Registered: Jun-05 | Much thanks. I followed the Nikon link you quoted above to another person and spent a couple hours reading. Great info and helped me understand alot. I do have a general understanding of the concept for things like shutter speed, aperture, white balance, etc., but remembering the where's and why's and putting it all together in an instant to capture a specific shot - I am lost. I guess it just takes loads of practice and time. You told me where to look if I "need to update", but I reallly don't know if I do or not. No idea, actually. However, I may just go out and get that "Adobe Photoshop CS" you mentioned and it sounds like that should already be updated (?). Obvioiusly I am not a professional by any stretch of the imagination, nor plan to be, so I assume that it isn't some $500 + package with $499 worth of stuff I'll never use, is it? Hope not. Like mentioned before, I really just want to be able to enhance a bit more than iPhoto can, and more importantly, work with RAW photos in case I get a really nice shot of something (particularyly my son) I'd like the highest quality photo/print of. Again, much thanks. Any other info, tips you got on using the D70 (be it for me or the entired board) would be much appreciated by all. Keep up the great advice... |
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New member Username: JapanhuskerPost Number: 3 Registered: Jun-05 | Much thanks. I followed the Nikon link you quoted above to another person and spent a couple hours reading. Great info and helped me understand alot. I do have a general understanding of the concept for things like shutter speed, aperture, white balance, etc., but remembering the where's and why's and putting it all together in an instant to capture a specific shot - I am lost. I guess it just takes loads of practice and time. You told me where to look if I "need to update", but I reallly don't know if I do or not. No idea, actually. However, I may just go out and get that "Adobe Photoshop CS" you mentioned and it sounds like that should already be updated (?). Obvioiusly I am not a professional by any stretch of the imagination, nor plan to be, so I assume that it isn't some $500 + package with $499 worth of stuff I'll never use, is it? Hope not. Like mentioned before, I really just want to be able to enhance a bit more than iPhoto can, and more importantly, work with RAW photos in case I get a really nice shot of something (particularyly my son) I'd like the highest quality photo/print of. Again, much thanks. Any other info, tips you got on using the D70 (be it for me or the entire board) would be much appreciated by all, I'm sure. Keep up the great advice... |
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Unregistered guest | Hi Berny, I'm hoping you can help with this one as I've tried both Thom Hogan's book [525 pages when printed!] and Simon Stafford's and still can't solve it. I've used SLRs for years ending up with an FM2 and FM3A. Always got good flash picturs of skin tones using the Nikon flash. I've just bought a D70 and I'm pleased with it in all respects except flash. I have used both the on-camera flash and have now purchased the SB800. I get very harsh skin tones with obvious redness including very unflattering rendering of any skin imperfections. The SB800 with dome is a bit better but still not what I used to get and much inferior to my Sony DSC-T1 which renders flash skin tones really nicely. Is it White Balance, Tone comp, hue, saturation or curves I need to look at? Hope you can help as I've tried Nikonians as well All the best, Jon |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3180 Registered: Dec-03 | Kevin, Since you have a good grasp of the basics, then all you need is practice. In time, putting it all together will get better. So in between practice, keep your camera on the Programmed Mode and keep in mind what the view finder selects for aperture and shutter speed. Vary between matrix metering, spot metering and center weighted metering. Indeed, Photoshop is expensive. However, there is an alternative. I just instinctively went for the program I use and never thought about the practicality of its use. With that in mind, you should give Adobe Photo Elements a try, as I believe it has the plug-ins for Nikon's NEF/RAW capture. It will have all the tweaks you need for playing around with your images. After that, get hold of a book by Scott Kelby...Photoshop Elements for the Digital Photographer. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3182 Registered: Dec-03 | Jon, It is difficult to make an evaluation without seeing the pictures and not knowing the camera settings you were using at the time. But from what you have written, I am thinking that you need to look at your white balance and calibrate the settings by using a white or gray card. Do you set the white balance to flash when you are using the SB800? What mode are you in? The Auto mode is really not that great. |
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New member Username: JapanhuskerPost Number: 4 Registered: Jun-05 | Berny, Thanks, will check out the software. By the way, how about plain ol' NIKON CAPTURE? Doesn't it too allow one to enhance pics and also use RAW images as well? Or, is it too quite expensive? Only heard of it, so have no idea of the price nor quality. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3183 Registered: Dec-03 | Nikon Capture is a great tool for enhancing your pictures, albeit rudimentary. It would cost about $99. There is a free trial period of 30 days. Check it out and see if it meets your needs. For that kind of money, I think that Photo Elements would be a better product. |
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New member Username: JackkesslerPost Number: 1 Registered: Jun-05 | I am having the exact opposite problem JRT posted on April 6. I cannot get the flash to fire no matter what I try. According to the manual it should be firing. It just isn't. What should I try before taking it to Nikon for repair? |
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New member Username: JackkesslerPost Number: 2 Registered: Jun-05 | More on previous post - I remembered Bernie having told someone to reset his camera which sounded like a good idea, so I found the tiny button on the bottom of the camera, pressed it and Voila! Still nothing. Now the flash pops up by itself in 'auto' mode but still won't fire. On the exif information the "flash mode" entry is always blank. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3190 Registered: Dec-03 | Jack, You have tried all that you can. I think it is time that you sent the camera to Nikon for service. How old is the camera? I ask because you can still probably return the unit if it is not too old. |
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New member Username: CrashnrcAmes, Ia Usa Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-05 | Hey Guys, I've read of a few people having a similar problem with their D70 as I am having, when I turn the camera on there is a long delay while the green led blinks before the camera turns on. The on off switch seems to have no affect, if you leave the camera for a while it will get itself turned on(or off). I've done the reset switch(on the bottom of the camera) and the two button reset. No change, if you try and take a picture while it's doing this the camera won't take one or it will be a huge delay(5-30 sec) before taking a picture. I've run the camera with both the rechargable pack and the cr2 pack. Same results, has anyone had the camera fixed by nikon and if so what was the problem and how long did it take. I've had the camera for over a year and taken 4000+ pics with no problems until now. Concerned Nikon user.. |
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Unregistered guest | I have a nikon D70 I have a problem where when i take pic on the M mode at 28 mm in bright light it will pop up with an err message and come out real dark. or if i take a pic on AF between 80-28 it gives me the same problem. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3191 Registered: Dec-03 | More information please. What is your level of photographic experience? M Mode...what is your Aperture setting, Shutter speed, ISO, AF-s or AF-C. Did you consult your manual? |
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Unregistered guest | I have had this camera for about 8 Mounths I am not an expert but when i did take it into ritz camera they hade the same problem and were unable to fix it. I have used every ISO setting it still does it i have used aperture settings from 4 to 22 and I have consulted the manul and have been unable to fix it |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3216 Registered: Dec-03 | time to send it to Nikon Service Center. |
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New member Username: DlichiarPost Number: 1 Registered: Jun-05 | Hello there! I own a D70 and I recently purchased a SB600 speedlight. It works just fine when attached to the camera hot-shoe. I started to play around with wireless mode: for a while it worked beautifully. Two days ago it started behaving inconsistent: only one in every 5-6 shots triggers the SB600. Sometimes I get the alternating sequence of SB600 high/low pitch sounds (that might be a sign of communication trouble between builtin flash and SB600). I tried the following: recharged batteries on camera and speedlight; reset camera to default settings; reset speedlight to default settings; set again camera in commander mode TTL and SB600 in slave mode; made sure that camera builtin flash can "see" the light sensor on SB600. set camera in "P" mode and performed tests; set camera in Aperture Priority mode and performed tests; Encountered same problems. Camera or speedlight were never dropped or exposed to any kind of "rough" treatment. Also, if it's of any help, I have previously upgraded firmware to version 2.0. I did not have these problems before 2.0 (but it might be just a simple coincidence) Does anybody have any ideea what it might be? Would camera and/or SB600 need to pay a visit to Nikon Service Center? Any ideas, advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dan |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3224 Registered: Dec-03 | Looks like a sensor problem on the sb-600. Are you using different channels/groups? |
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New member Username: DlichiarPost Number: 2 Registered: Jun-05 | Well, I've tried setting different channels and groups, but according to SB600 manual, the speedlight won't fire unless is set to channel 3, group A (at least in this config: builtin flash light as master, sb600 as slave). Anyway, it won't work... What really drives me crazy is the randomness of the problem. So, what do I have left? Probably a visit to Nikon Service Centre? |
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New member Username: JackkesslerPost Number: 3 Registered: Jun-05 | Dan, my built-in flash did not work after I upgraded the firmware also. I do not know if there is any connection because I rarely used the flash so I don't know when it stopped working. Now that I think of it, I don't know if it ever worked. I contacted Nikon on their website and they told me to send it to the service center. I would have to ship there from France which would cost money and lots of delay. I can get it fixed at Espace Nikon but without the warranty here in Paris for not much more than the shipping and very little delay. |
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New member Username: DlichiarPost Number: 3 Registered: Jun-05 | Thanks Berny, Jack for the info! I have also asked same question at Nikon support - haven't got any answer yet. I was wondering, if there's any way of reversing the firmare back to previous version? Anyway, probably I will have to ship camera to Nikon (lucky me, there's a centre near Toronto) and get it fixed in the near future. Meanwhile I can stick with the speedlight mounted on the hotshoe Dan |
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New member Username: MotorbikegirlPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-05 | Hi there, I am having problems with my Nikon D70 not firing in an indoor bar (low light) environment. I didn't bring my SB600 but had the camera's flash popped up. I've tried both manual (with aperture open all the way) and auto settings. Any ideas why it won't fire? |
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lmorales Unregistered guest | I do mostly studio work -- portraits, products, etc. For years I shot with the N90 completely manual, and I never had any problems with it. Recently I switched to the D70, and I am having a problem with the exposure changing. I can set the aperature and shutter speed to get a perfect image, but if I move a foot in any direction the exposure completely changes. Can anyone tell me what I am missing? I have done a lot of photography, but I am still an amateur. Thanks! |
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lmorales Unregistered guest | I am shooting in the studio with monolights, and the camera on manual. It doesn't seem like the exposure should change just by moving 10-12 inches. Is there some default setting undermining my manual controls as I move? |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3227 Registered: Dec-03 | Are you saying that the settings change when you move the camera even on full manual? |
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Unregistered guest | Hi Folks: This is an incredible forum... specially Benny!! I have just changed one of my F4s cameras to the D70 and am trying to get used to the new methods.. I had an old (mint condition) AF Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 lens (Ser #2014958: bought in 1986) that I saved for my other F4 camera. Is this lens compatible with the D70? I get "F--" and "r12" messages in my display when I mount it, so assume it isn't compatible, being so "ancient" that it would pre-date this technology by eons. Am I right? |
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New member Username: JackkesslerPost Number: 4 Registered: Jun-05 | About Alok and his old AF Nikkor lens - According to the Nikon website and literature AIS autofocus lenses, which I assume Alok's is, will "work" on a D70 but neither the autofocus nor the light metering will work. Less elaborately put, they won't work. The only lenses that work on a D70 are Nikon's D series and G series lenses, and compatibles from Sigma, Tamron, Tokina, et alia. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3228 Registered: Dec-03 | That lens should still be current. If it works on the F4s autofocus system it should work on your D70. Try this, mount the lens on the D70 and set the aperture of the lens to f22 and lock it. See if you still get the error message. If the error is gone you are set, if not, you can only use it on manual mode. |
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New member Username: JackkesslerPost Number: 5 Registered: Jun-05 | Berny is correct. I spoke under a misapprehension that AI-S lenses and AF lenses are the same. They aren't. The compatibility matrix for Nikon lenses and Nikon cameras including the D70 is here - http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/nikon_articles/other/compatibility.html |
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Deirdre Unregistered guest | I'm new w/ photography in general and before I really learned to use my N65 my husband got me the D70. I've had it since Dec. and haven't found enough time to study the manual. Now I understand Nikon has come out w/ the D70S. I'm told that one can upgrade the D70 to include the new features but it is done via connecting the camera to the computer. How do I find out how to do this or can I pay an authorized dealer to do it for me? I'm not that literate and am afraid to do it myself. Also I just got the SB800 and from reading the forum understand that the speedlght possibly stopped working for one person after upgrading. I have not yet used the speedlight. Do you recommend that I not even attempt to attach it to the camera prior to the upgrade? Thank you so much for any and all replies!!! What an informative forum! I'm so glad to have found it. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3229 Registered: Dec-03 | Deirdre, you should be fine. The upgrade is a firmware update and it is done via the NikonUSA website http://support.nikontech.com/cgi-bin/nikonusa.cfg/php/enduser/std_alp.php?p_prod s=19%2C56&p_pv=2.56&p_cats=186&p_cv=1.186 Make sure that you follow the steps explicitly. Print out the instructions first so you can read up on the proper procedure. You really should not worry too much about the the D70S. You are not missing anything and it does not make your D70 obsolete. The speedlight problem has nothing to do with your SB-800 and is isolated to a few cases. Go ahead and update your firmware. |
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Deirdre Unregistered guest | Thank you, Berny, I really appreciate your quick response, too! |
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Alok Unregistered guest | Hi Benny & Jack: Thanks very much... the lens does work with the D-70. Perhaps I didn't have the aperture ring locked the first time I tried it out? Your suggestion was absolutely correct. This really is a wonderful forum, and as I learn I'll be sure to come back again and again... your help will be absolutely invaluable. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3236 Registered: Dec-03 | That is great to know. Have fun with your camera |
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Unregistered guest | I have had my D70s for almost two months now. The only problem I have is the aperture setting the camera selects in program mode. Outside on a bright day, the thing still wants to use f/4.5 and a shutter speed of 1/1600! I would like more depth-of-field and an aperture of f/8 or better. I know, use the Aperture Priority mode. But, surely the Nikon engineers did not write such terrible firmware as to always use the lens wide open. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3239 Registered: Dec-03 | It also depends on the metering that you are using. Are you using Matrix, Spot or Centre Weighted? |
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Unregistered guest | Matrix. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3240 Registered: Dec-03 | There you go. The thing with the programmed mode is that it will automatically select the best exposure for the main subject, taking into account the average light available around the area you are trying to capture. It really does not know the effect that you are trying to achieve. It does not take into consideration the depth of field that you want. All it does is focus on your main subject and makes a decision based on what is available. Depth of field control is, like you said, best left on aperture priority. |
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lmorales Unregistered guest | "Are you saying that the settings change when you move the camera even on full manual?" Berny, The settings show up as the same but the exposure changes. I have the D70 on full manual. I take a few shots, and the exposure is perfect. Then I step a foot to the left or right and the exposure is off. I am shooting in the studio with the same subject and background -- sometimes it's overexposed and sometimes underexposed. For the life of me I can't figure out what is wrong. I never had anything this weird with the N90. any ideas? anyone? I must be doing something wrong -- but what? |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3242 Registered: Dec-03 | Wow, I have not experienced anything like that at all. Do this, when you take the pictures, check the EXIF data on NikonView and see if all the settings and values for each picture are the same. You should be able to read all the information about the picture that you took when you read the exif data. |
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New member Username: LmoralesGainesville, FL United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-05 | Well, both of these pictures were shot at a focal length of 65mm, Manual exposure mode, 1/125, F/9, ISO 200, metering mode multi-pattern. Do you see a probelm with my settings? If not then perhaps it's my studio lights. It's not been a problem with the N90, but maybe the lab has been doing that correction for me. I would appreciate any advice, but if you don't have any more then thanks for trying to help!   |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3245 Registered: Dec-03 | Those pictures look like 2 differing light set ups. The one on the right seem to have been taken with direct front flash, or a lighting set up that did not properely recycle. There are deep shadows behind the subject and the highlights are concentrated on the raised areas of the subject. The one on the left seem to be properly lit. I don't see a problem with your exposures and settings, the lights are the ones changing not the camera settings. |
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New member Username: Kevin_brookePost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-05 | Hey Berny, wonder if you could help me out. I am trying to use the 'P' mode as much as possible for my normal snapshots and photo needs. However, I sometimes have problems with taking group photos - that is, sometimes only one person (usually the one in middle or nearest to the camera) is focused on, and the rest are blurry in the finished product. Any particular metering/focus area setting you recommend for these shots? Much thanks... |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3254 Registered: Dec-03 | Kevin, How is the focus set-up on your camera? Dynamic or nearest object? And the people out of focus, how far are they in relation to the camera and the rest of the group? When encountering this type of scenario, I would suggest having a smaller aperture setting to decrease the depth of field and to make sure that almost everyone on the frame is in sharp focus. so this means you may have to go 1 or 2 steps down on your aperture setting. What would this mean to you? Use the Aperture priority on your camera and use dynamic area focusing and center the AF on the main subject. I am flying blind here as I don't have a picture to use as reference. But that is usually a solution to that particular problem. Good luck and let me know how it goes |
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New member Username: Kevin_brookePost Number: 2 Registered: Jul-05 | Berny, thanks for your reply. I am at work now, but may be able to upload a sample photo from my home sometime - assuming I cannot fix the prob. There are several group photos that I've had this prob with. Sometimes the people in the photo are all in a line, but sometimes they may be anywhere from 6 inches to a couple of feet difference between them. In the latter case, how would I handle that? I must admit, the small "point and shoot" digital cameras (Sony CyberShot, etc.) as much as I want to leave them behind, seem to handle this situation much better (at least until I figure out how to handle it). Usually my group photos on my old Sony were pretty good - regardless of the distance between the subjects. In P mode, the default "Dynamic" is selected. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3255 Registered: Dec-03 | Use the Single Focus (AF-S)instead of Continuous Focus (AF-C). |
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New member Username: Kevin_brookePost Number: 3 Registered: Jul-05 | Will give it a try - much thanks. One mroe thing, if you do not mind: I have just bought the new iLife for my Mac that has iPhoto 5. Mac and most reviews claim that it now can read and handle RAW images - and list the D70 as one of the compatible cameras for this. HOWEVER, I have also recently read from a couple different sources, that iPhoto CANNOT in fact read nor allow you to manipulate RAW images, but rather it makes a copy of the RAW image on what it thinks the picture should look like. Or, something to that matter. Do you have ANY idea on this? MUCH, MUCH appreciated. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3257 Registered: Dec-03 | Sorry, Kevin, I am not a Mac user so I won't be able to tell of any compatibility nor reading issues On the RAW side of the house, I think you are referring to a workflow issue. When manipulating your photos, always work with a copy of the RAW file and then save it as a different format. This enables you to keep the digital "negative" and manipulate the copy however many times you want. iPhoto from my understanding is a rudimentary photo editing software. However, when manipulating NEF RAW files from the D70, it is imperative that you make a duplicate of the RAW file and maipulate the copy. This is what I do with my RAW files. I batch process all my RAW files through Photoshop CS and save all the RAW file on a different hard disk and catalog them. I do all my editing without even thinking about the saved RAW files. |
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New member Username: BenrFort Pierce, Florida USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Jul-05 | Dust on the Sensor: I have read several post where readers were posing questions as to spots showing up on prints and were told that it may be dust on the sensor. Berny asked whether the poster was changing lenses often. My, question: I have several lenses that I used with my prior camera and bought the D 70 so that I could use them. Is the dust risk that great in changing lenses and what is meant by "often' in changing lenses? |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3279 Registered: Dec-03 | "Often" can mean anything to any other person. I should have been more specific. The problem lies more in environmental conditions. What we really need to address would be under what conditions do you change lenses? You have to realize that the digital sensor is not like the film plane in the camera. When you change lenses there is a charge on the surface of the sensor and that charge attracts dust. So it is also very important that the camera is turned off when changing lenses. You can minimize the dust problem when you follow this simple rule. you also need to make sure that it is not windy and of course not dusty. Point your camera down when changing lenses so dust does not fall on the sensor. If you need to clean the sensor, follow the instructions carefully as stated on the manual and you should have no problems with dust. Get your self a Giottos blower and avoid does canned aerosol compressed air that may contain contaminants tha will further worsen the problem. |
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Unregistered guest | Berny, I've never heard of a Giottos blower. What is it and where can I get one. |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3284 Registered: Dec-03 | they sell at amazon, it is actually called Giottos Rocket. Check it here. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0002VCEOW |
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New member Username: Bh365bpPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-05 | I am amazed and impressed at the charity exhibited in this room. I'd like to say how nice it is to find someone like Berny who doesn't ask for anything in return for all the wonderful knowledge he happily shares (often the same thing post-after-post) jk...:] I have two dilemmas I'm working on. They go like this: Being on a budget, I have a choice to make. I can buy the D70(s or not) with the AFS-DX lense and a 1gig card through an online, reputable source for about $1100US. I can buy the same kit from a local dealer and it comes out to about $1400US. Is there any reason to buy local? Would I have any advantages that will make up the roughly $300 difference? Secondly; If I were to buy one additional item and had to choose between an SB800 and a mid-range telephoto (maybe 70-200), which is the better utility piece for the family-type fotog (and Why)? |
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Gold Member Username: Project6Post Number: 3354 Registered: Dec-03 | if the dealer is reputable and the lens that you are going to get with the kit is an actual Nikon lens, then get it from the source that can save you money. The kit should go for around $1100-1400. So you are within the normal price range for this camera. The reason to buy local would just be convenience and a quick return should something go wrong. If you are just doing a family type snap shot , save your money and get the sb-800 or better yet the sb-600 flash. This should fit your uses quite nicely. The 70-200 vr (if you are considering) is an excllent lens that costs more than the d70, but you will probably not use it for the intended purpose of the lens. It is also heavy so I don't think you will be carrying it to any trips. Unless you are really serious about photography, this lens will be nothing more than a very expensive piece of glass that will look great on your camera and be the envy of your other photographer friends Be careful, this hobby has the tendency to make you want to buy more equipment that you may think will improve your skill. Take plenty of pictures first and improve your skill. Find your niche and then decide what else you want to accomplish with photography and proceed accordingly. |