Big Samsung DLP Problem, please help.
| Thread | Last Poster | Posts | Last Post | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Archive through June 30, 2007 | Gene Curtis | 100 | ||
| Archive through January 30, 2007 | Dan Sheiner | 100 | ||
| Archive through September 15, 2006 | FYI | 100 | ||
| Archive through December 15, 2005 | Keith Horton | 100 | ||
| Archive through July 24, 2005 | Don't give up! | 100 | ||
| Archive through March 17, 2005 | Anonymous | 100 |
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New member Username: WolfganggullichSeaside, CA Post Number: 4 Registered: Jun-07 | Same exact problem my HLR5067W has been doing. It's back to being fairly intermittent. Only does it mainly after having tuned the sat box to Equator and when using the Wii occasionally. It fixed it for a little while after I finally opened up the back of the TV (unplugged of course), cleaned all the dust out, then re-seated all of the wires that connect to the input board. We just bought a new lamp for it too  Anyways, we're going to solve the problem after we move in a couple months by getting a new 55" Sony A2020 and moving this thing to bedroom tv status as it doesn't have probs on normal broadcast quality signals. |
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New member Username: Gs1344Post Number: 2 Registered: Feb-07 | Samsung HLN617W - I found instructions on how to change a color wheel and the instructions were great. But Samsung sold me a newer multi color wheel and after changing it I now have ghosting around all background images and the black level or contrast is washing out. For fun and lack of any further knowledge I switched back to the screaming old color wheel and problem solved. I switched it back to the new color wheel, problem again. Has anyone come across this problem? Thanks! |
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New member Username: BigsiPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-07 | Hey guys - i hope i dont get too vague here as i cant recall off hand what the model number is but 50in Samsung DLP. For the life of me i cannot get any response from my PC being plugged in . Flicking through the different AV sources gets me nothing. Delving into the menu area and the PC 'link' is shaded out , meaning unable to access. I have searched the net far and wide to try and solve this dilemma but cant for the life of me. Appreciate any help. Cheers |
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New member Username: FastislipBoston, MA US Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-07 | Gene, I am having a similar issue with my HLP5063W, except instead of having red pixels appear, my set is producing green pixels immediately after turning on the set. It started out initially on edges of objects and in green areas (sports) but has now overtaken much of the screen making it an un-enjoyable experience. From what I gather on this site its either the DMD board or the light engine that is starting to go. Have you found a solution? Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to diagnose the issue myself or is it worth paying the extra money to have someone in to repair it? also the set was bought new almost exactly 2 years ago without an extended warranty (my own fault) |
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Bronze Member Username: PotentialjvcownerPost Number: 84 Registered: Sep-06 | Listening to all of the problems in this forum, I sure am glad I bought a JVC, which is LCoS and not DLP. |
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New member Username: Blynch1Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-07 | Ok I have an interesting problem that doesn't occur all the time. My HL-P6163W shuts down after a variable amount of time with the 3 light of death flashing. Its not the lamp, I've replaced it with 2 new ones. Sometimes when I turn the TV on it has a flickering picture and the colors look all washed out. Sometimes I turn it on and its fine. If I leave the TV unplugged for a couple of days then turn it on it will stay on for a long time, maybe even fine for a couple of days. As soon as it shuts down though, it will not stay on longer then 30 seconds. Also if I leave the TV plugged in even if I go away for several days it won't turn on longer then 30 seconds to a minute. When it shuts down the Picture give graphical artifacts for about 2 seconds before it goes completely off. I'm a PC Tech and I've taken it apart to clean out all the vents and check all the fans. I removed all dust from all components. This thing is about 3 days from me trying to fit it in a dumpster. Any suggestions? |
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New member Username: Blynch1Post Number: 2 Registered: Jul-07 | Update. It now doesn't turn on at all. plug it in and the lamp light goes on for about a minute, then it restarts. I don't get the purple light out the back |
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New member Username: DavefromsocalPost Number: 1 Registered: Sep-07 | I also have a Samsung HLN617W DLP which is about 2 years old and after about an hour of operation, starts flickering white blotches. I went through entire post but missed the fix. DMD board, color wheel replacement or ? HELP!! This is the most expensive piece of poo I ever sprung for. |
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New member Username: D_pierrePost Number: 1 Registered: Sep-07 | I have a problem with my HL-R5067W TV. when putting some power to the TV (by plugging to the 110 V plug); I have a buzzing sound for 2 seconds; and the usual startup sound but the lamp sign on the front keeps flashing and nothing happens. then after a while there will be this short buzzing sound again, any idea ? lamp ? color wheel ? thanks in advance |
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New member Username: Fred123Arkansas Post Number: 5 Registered: Jul-07 | HLR Poor picture in low light scenes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a HLR5078 purchased 18 months ago. The light engine and the digital modules required replacement within the last 4 months; all covered by a Samsung warranty extension. I have been having problems with color in the darker areas of the picture. This is especially bad for facial tones. Skin color turns red to purple. No amount of color or brightness seems to effect it. When the tech installed the new light engine, he did not calibrate. Could this be the source of the problem. Any coments or ideas would be greatly appreciate. Fred 123  |
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New member Username: GologicNeenah, WI United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Oct-07 | I have a 46" Samsung DLP that I have a HDMI problem. The input worked fine until it recently went blank. I tried three different devices and cables to confirm that it is the TV input. When I wiggled the HDMI cable in the back of the TV, the picture came back. The input is loose and the only way to get the picture to stay on is to wedge something under the cable to keep pressure on it (obviously not ideal). Does anyone know if the input can be ordered from anywhere and what it takes to replace it? |
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New member Username: Chris007Post Number: 1 Registered: Oct-07 | I have a HL-R4266W, which is about 8 months past its warranty. It has a curious problem, the screen will freeze within 15-45 minutes after the TV has been turned on and the entire unit becomes unresponsive to any input from the remote or from buttons on the unit itself. After reading posts on this forum I believe it is a due to a faulty DMD digital board. What is the best strategy in trying to get Samsung to pay for the part? Do I take this unit to a repair shop and get an estimate and then contact Samsung Extended Customer Care or how should I go about this? Thanks for your suggestions in advance. |
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Gold Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 1077 Registered: May-05 | Hey Adam, You will never guess what some lamps do as they approach death. They put out colors in the spectrum other than the pure white intended. Try the new lamp first. You may find yourself back in the CCA settings in the service menu. Oh yea... prepair to be blown away by the new lamp performance. It's amazing what we get used to over time. |
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Gold Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 1078 Registered: May-05 | Fred, He should have had a sheet with the LE that has values for the service menu settings. The part jockey strikes again! It must be calibrated! Chris L. Sounds like a digital board to me too. That is...if "any" input signal freezes. 1 800 SAMSUNG is the first call! Joe, I'll bet those HDMI ports are fun to solder. HDMI is over-rated and obviously not perfected. I use component Y, Pr, Pb and avoid a number of problems. Pierre, It's the power supply! David, It's the digital board! Brian, I'm guessing the dumpster was fed by now!  It really sounds like a faulty lamp door switch. As the cabinet warms up, it expands and pops a bit, triggering the lamp door safety switch. (pia) |
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New member Username: DavefromsocalPost Number: 2 Registered: Sep-07 | I attempted to replace the color wheel, but broke off the blue/white/white cable connector on the digital board. A local service shop fixed the board and indicated the color wheel replacement should remedy the white blotch flickering after 1 hour of usage. So far so good. They picked set up and dropped off in 2 days for $350. The color is like new again, gone is green bleedthru of darker images too. I tried! |
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New member Username: Eltoro1234Portesham U.k Post Number: 1 Registered: Oct-07 | Hi all, I have a Samsung 23" lcd tv in our bedroom, it's had very little use over the 15 months since it was purchased, maybe 5 hours a week, last week it got a 3" green line from top to bottom on the right hand side, I called Samsung customer care (there should be some sort of law to stop companys using the word 'care' when they obviously DON'T)they said, point blank, it's nothing to do with them because 'I'm 9 weeks out of warrenty' and I should take it up with the retailer, unfortunatly they went into liquidation so no help there, Samsung are aware of this, but still refuse to help! (they say, they have been more than helpfull because, WAIT FOR IT, they give me the number of a registred service centre! don't know if this next bit will help anyone else thinking of buying an LCD tv. I got a model and type number from a Toshiba, Sony, and Phillips, lcd tv's from our local electrical store, and then contacted each of their customer care service centres with the same problem has the Samsung tv, and Toshiba were fantastic, they said they would cover the TV even though it was out of warrenty, if I could get it to one of their service centres, samsung make the screens for Sony tv's, so won't be buying one of those, and couldn't get through to phillips c.c. so Toshiba have to be the one for me, and have won the race for my next £1,000 purchase on an lcd TV!.....DON'T BUY SAMSUNG, UNTILL THEY IMPROVE THEIR CUSTOMER CARE! |
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New member Username: DavefromsocalPost Number: 3 Registered: Sep-07 | While I enjoy the picture of this TV, I seriously doubt I would purchase another component from Samsung and would try another manufacturer. Samsung 'customer don't care' line gave me two repair centers, one was wrong number or disconnected. At least the other one was decent. |
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New member Username: Rainman33192Post Number: 1 Registered: Oct-07 | any ideas how to calibrate the picture on a hlp4667 dlp rear projection tv changed color wheel and now get the distorted picture on darker areas like fred in earlier post |
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New member Username: Gs1344Post Number: 3 Registered: Feb-07 | I had the same problem, and this proceedure cured it. You need to syncronize the new color wheel to the original digital board. 1. With the set off, press "mute,1,8,2, power" 2. Select "DDP1011? 3. Select "INDEX DELAY" 4. While changing the index delay value,look at the horizontal red bar at the bottom and make it look as close to true red as you can. 5. Select "OPTION" 6. Select "USER RESET" to save,tv will turn off automatically. 7. Turn tv back on and check color quality. |
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New member Username: SungofsamPost Number: 1 Registered: Oct-07 | From a review of the boards, it appears I've got the dreaded frozen black and white picture that many have dealt with here. Pushing and holding the power button seems to reset everything. Sometimes I will get lucky and the tv will work for an hour, sometimes only minutes. I'm the original owner and with 3 1/2 years under my belt, I'm way out of warranty. It's time to bite the bullet and get this fixed. Per the posts, it sounds like I need a digital board. I've got a 50" Model # HLN507W1X, but when I go to Samsung parts online, the closest thing I can find as a match for the part is 'ASSY PCB MISC-DIGITAL.' Is that the part? What's the difference between it and the 'ASSY PCB MAIN-ANALOG' counterpart? Do I need both? Because just one of those parts is an over-$300 prospect, I'm wondering whether there is any other source for these digital boards? Also, is this a pretty much plug and play repair? (I opened the back panel and I'm hoping the digital board is that metal thing right in the middle.) I'm not at all experienced with these things, but I don't want to shell out the money for someone else to do it. Seems that if I pay someone, I might as well consider getting a new tv for the cost. Both options really stink considering what I paid back in the day. Thanks for your help everyone (especially FYI--couldn't help but notice your helpful posts!). Sorry if I sound bitter here, I just don't want to throw good money after bad (but at the same time, I want to save money where I can). Any advice on the above is appreciated. Thanks again. |
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New member Username: MazetronicNewport beach, Ca. Usa Post Number: 1 Registered: Sep-07 | greetings dlp users, i had to wait a few weeks cause my new color wheel was on back order... i decieded to take my actuator apart to see what it was all about... now that i have put in my new color wheel and fired up the tv the picture is soft.... i am thinking this is caused by a misaligned actuator.... can anyone tell me if this is correct or what the actuator actually does....thanks |
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New member Username: Playab0yyyPost Number: 1 Registered: Nov-07 | Does anyone have a solution to Ken's problem from 04/19/07??? (please see his post AND image above) This is regarding purple lines in the Samsung HCN4226W. Thank you very much, Paul. |
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New member Username: Dwood7Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-07 | I own a HL-R5067W, purchased in July 2005. I just rec'd a quote for $1065 (from a Samsung recommended repair place) to replace a circuit board, without even having anyone to take a look at it first! Samsung has been no help at all, I've called twice. The TV shuts off at all different times, sometimes after a few minutes or a few hours. Picture is fine, when it stays on. The "standby/temp" and "lamp" lights come on as it is shutting down each time. This is the only repair shop that Samsung has listed for my area, but the estimate is VERY steep. Anyone have this problem that was resolved thru Samsung or could confirm the problem? I had no idea there were so many people w/ problems with this equipment!! |
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New member Username: RentderfPost Number: 2 Registered: Jun-07 | The HLR 5067 was designed with a defective board (DMD). the actual price of the board is $430. so someone is making a good profit off your Service. Check the other posts from back a few years, we are not the only ones with a problem. Call 1-800-522-7341, which is executive care and tell them you want a new TV, you have enough money in a TV that even with a new board might last another 12 months. I know they want you to install a new board, but tell them there is no guarantee the new board will fix it. I wish I were a Samsung qualified repair person. The person that came to my house had to call Samsung and ask a lot of questions. I had the feeling he was not trained on the new technology. Good Luck. |
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New member Username: Localmotion00Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-07 | Please help. Just experienced a problem with my component inputs today. They just stopped working all of the sudden. I was watching satellite and picture went black. I changed the channel and everything was fine. Just channel? After a bit (don't know how long because I was on my laptop...15 minutes maybe) Tv appeared 'No Signal or Weak Signal'. Long story short changed to DVD player and PS2 but still no picture via component input. HDMI, s-video, RCA all work. Problem 2: Entered the SM and saw the Engine selection under the service tab. out of curiousity I decided to see what options there were.... hehem... Mistake. Curiousity killed the cat as they say. On my 6167W when I hit the left arrow on the remote the screen flipped upside down and it appeared to say Zeiss as opposed to Samsung. I hit back right and got it back to 'normal'. Hitting right continually does 'nothing' except a flicker resulting in the same 'image' of the Engine: SAMSUNG in the top left. The issue is now the light blue input info (i.e. Component, HDMI, etc.) along with my image is big time screen door. I can clearly see the pixels from 6 feet away. It was immediately evident when I saw the input info. What have I done and is there any way to do a complete factory reset to resolve it and/or another method that would not disturb other things (i.e. lamp life which is at 4747 hrs BTW) MAN, WHAT A JACKASS!!!!!! |
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New member Username: MaxbrandSanta Barbara, CA United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-07 | The white pixel death need not immediately require a new DMD board: Turn your TV off then, using remote, type in MUTE, 1, 8, 2, POWER. Then switch your GAMMA to 4 or 3 and turn SLR off. It worked for me. No white pixelating snow from frozen hell now. Going on 128 hours straight. Also, adjust your INDEX DELAY to 223 or something. I think I'm starting to crack their evil code now!}}} |
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New member Username: MaxbrandSanta Barbara, CA United States Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-07 | Also, regarding the obvious changes you'll see with the different Gamma setting and SLR off as well as your index delay color shifting you will need to compensate by using your TV remote to dial back in the picture that you're used to seeing. I've already replaced my color wheel and lamp so I'm not going to give up without a fight! Please let me know if this fix is universal for 2004 2nd Gen Samsung sets 56" ((HLN567WX/XAA)) Good luck!!! |
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New member Username: MaxbrandSanta Barbara, CA United States Post Number: 3 Registered: Nov-07 | if you need help navigating the Service Menu don't hesitate to email me after accessing |
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New member Username: SsalinaPost Number: 4 Registered: Nov-07 | I don't know how any of you are getting anywhere with Samsung's customer service. I have an HLR4266W that is just about 24 months old, and I have the same problem a number of you have had (try to turn the set on, lamp light blinks while the lamp warms up, then it sits at a blank screen for 20-30 seconds, then the unit turns itself off) and I'm convinced its the DMD board. I paid nearly $2k for this set a little under 2 years ago, and now it's going to cost over $900 to fix it??? Customer service will not help me out in any way, shape or form. I said I would pay for labor if they covered the $600 board, but they wouldn't budge. So now I have this huge paperweight sitting in my living room that I refuse to have fixed for that much money. I will never, ever, EVER buy another product from Samsung EVER again. They are horrible, and their products are horrible. I'm going back to Panasonic. I've had Panasonic tv's forever both at home and professionally at work, and I've never had a problem with them no matter how hard I work them. I'm sticking with them and NEVER buying Samsung junk again. What a complete waste of my money that turned out to be. I haven't been this pissed in a loooooong time. |
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New member Username: Localmotion00Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-07 | Steve, on many levels I agree with you. The unfortunate thing is that problems like these are not exclusive to Samsung. If you go and check out any manufacturers TV's it is much the same. There are many more moving parts and a lot more silicon in the TV's now. The fact there are more points of failure I understand. My problem is that fact that the manufacturers know this but do not adjust their warranties accordingly nor their parts prices. Even if the part was $10 I am still not paying $300 to some jackass to come fix my TV if 20 minutes. My TV was $3500 when I bought it and someone would have to come up with a good explanation why its 1K for a new light engine. Of course you can sell TV's cheap if you charge a fortune for parts that you know the customer will need. I have never changed a motherboard in any PC I own, but for some reason a board inside a TV cant work for 10 years? I'm fine with paying $200 (price is less now) for a new bulb every 2-3 years because that's what the technology demands; but I will not pay for ridiculous things that break for no reason. The warranty on these things in their current condition should be at least 3-5 years not including bulbs. No ifs, ands, buts, or maybes. This means, forutnate for the resellers like Best Buy etc., that they sell expensive extended warranties all day long. It is almost a must to buy an extended warranty now because if not you are S.O.L. I didn't have an opportunity to buy one and I didn't realize I could buy one from a 3rd party. Anyway, that's my two cents and like I said I agree with you in many ways. |
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New member Username: Dwood7Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-07 | Well, I actually had good luck with Samsung Executive Customer Care. I purchased my TV in July 05 and they just extended my warranty (parts only) till December 31, 07. I did pay labor, BUT the guy definitely knew what he was doing and has replaced 4 things, a board, ballast (?), lamp and is coming back tomorrow (free of charge) to replace the lens. He said this problem is happening a lot on these tv's and knew exactly how to fix it. So far so good. I just had to keep calling Samsung and on my fourth phone call to Executive Care they helped me out. |
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New member Username: Dwood7Post Number: 3 Registered: Nov-07 | Also, thanks Fred for your advice. It made all the difference calling that number you suggested. |
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New member Username: SsalinaPost Number: 5 Registered: Nov-07 | I did call the Executive Customer Care, per this forum (got the phone number here), but the woman I talked to refused to help me. I bought the tv in December '05, which is just about 1 year out of warranty, and she just flat out refused because of that. I will try again tomorrow, but I expect to get the same result. I have no idea how you got them to help you when it's been 1 1/2 years out of warranty - good for you! If I get nowhere with them, they have definitely lost a customer for life. I also buy video production products for work, and will never buy Samsung for that either (Panasonic and Sony, all the way). |
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Bronze Member Username: PotentialjvcownerPost Number: 87 Registered: Sep-06 | The real solution for all micro projection displays was to buy an extended warranty. |
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New member Username: Localmotion00Post Number: 3 Registered: Nov-07 | Today, that is the case. 'In the old days' you always said no to extended warranties because they were a waste of money. They were a big moneymaker for the reseller. It is hard for customers to believe that they WILL use it and being unaware of the cost of parts is another reason to deny and extended warranty. Think about it: how do you tell a customer who is going to plop down $4000 on a new TV (which may be a stretch to begin with) that they should spend $300 on having it properly calibrated because the manufacturer just makes it look sellable (case in point Sony saturating their colors to make it look more 'bright' than other displays) and then they should spend another $300-400 on an extended warranty because they REALLY are going to need it! WHAM! $700 bucks! No one in their right mind would want to pay that.....until they learn they want to charge you $1200 to fix your $4000 TV that you just bought 2 years ago. Imagine you just bought a Porsche for $80K. 2 years go buy and the engine goes. They tell you it will be $20K to fix it. I am pretty sure the words would be "GO @$#% yourself!" It's the same thing with these TV's extended warranty or not and there is no arguing that fact. I just got off the phone with one of their service guys telling me it was potentially $670 for the digital and analog boards plus the installation. Yeah, I am going to pay a grand for a TV I can buy for about $1500 on the net and I didn't even try looking for a good deal. I would rather stick this 61" up his buttocks (can't use the other word apparently) sideways. The worst part is if I bought a new one, I couldn't even give this one aways because it isn't worth ANYTHING! |
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New member Username: Derf28Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-07 | I have HLN617N all of the sudden today a loud vibrating noise started, the noise subsided but the picture became distorted. The picture is now in Black and White only in a flashing mode. Has anyone had this problem or does anyone have a posible solution to this? Happy Thanksgiving (yep) to everyone.. |
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New member Username: SungofsamPost Number: 2 Registered: Oct-07 | Nightmare situation! I posted before and decided to attempt a fix of the dreaded frozen black and white picture that many have dealt with here. I ordered the digital board, swapped out the old one (it was pretty simple, just unplug and plug again). I turned the tv on and the picture looked great. At that point I figured I installed the board correctly--if I hadn't, I would imagine I'd have no picture at all. Ten minutes later, the screen freezes again!!! Black and white pixels, nothing moving, except my heart beating out of my chest from high blood pressure. Oh yeah, I'm $340 poorer. Suggestions anyone? I have a suggestion: never another Samsung product again. NEVER |
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New member Username: Guyute619Athens, GA United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-07 | I got a question. My DLP 50in from like 5 years ago is shutting off randomly and I am not sure what to do about it. It was lasting for a few days before shutting down but now it doesnt last longer than 5 minutes. Luckily I got it from my brother for free when he bought his new dlp so I cant complain too much but I would love for it to work for longer than 5 minutes. Any help would be appreciated. |
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New member Username: Probuilders1Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-07 | Folks I need some help. Constructive advice/knowledge much appreciated. While watching TV the other day, I noticed a sudden slight burning smell. Then the TV went dead and to the dreaded 3 blinking lights of death. I replaced the bulb. On turning the TV back on it ran ok for a few minutes then died leaving the green timer light flashing and making two click noises one high pitched the other low emanating from the left side rear of the tv cabinet. I unplugged and let it cool down, turned it back on and it did fine for a few minutes then died again leaving me to watch the flashing light and being entertained by the repetitive clicks. Is this a ballast problem? A defective lamp? I searched the forums and could not find this problem duplicated. I would appreciate any insight. And please, no advice to call a Samsung repairman. That's why I read this wonderful forum so I won't need them. Thanks in advance. |
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New member Username: RaybeePost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-07 | Couple of problems of late with 5067, a little ove r2 years old. Tv was having audio and video distortion, cable company reset box and it seemed to be ok, all of a sudden a few days later, we bagan to get an intermittnet black screen, this evening it kept happening every 30 seconds, would go black and picture would come back right away. Also I notice when I turn off cable box and screen on tv is still on there are a series of green or blue dots across the center of the screen going left to right, rest odf screen is black. Any ideas as to what this might be? |
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New member Username: DoiturselfPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-07 | I have an HCN4226W. Recently, a red arc appeared along the left side of the screen. The red color also appears shifted to the right creating a shadow along all objects on the screen. I had the same problem 2 yrs ago and the tech replaced a part which had something to do with convergence. Any idea what that part might be and if I can replace it myself? It took the guy 5 minutes to replace it so I figured it couldn't be too hard. Would appreciate any help!!! |
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New member Username: IhatesamsungPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-07 | Got a HLN617W in 2/2004. Replaced color wheel and lamp 3 months ago. Recently it developed the freeze screen, flashing white screen, turn off by itself, wouldn't turn on etc. problems. I had to unplug then plug the power core to fix it. Called 1-800-Samsung and the tech. support said he has never heard about these problems at all(don't you guys call tech. support at all? ;-)), and he suggested me to unplug at least one hour to reset the TV. After a week, as of today, I couldn't even turn it on, with remote control, the sleep led is blinking, but that's it. I called ECC for help, she said my TV is out of warranty for two years, but Samsung stands behind it's products, so she can give me the nearest service center information, but I pay for all the expenses. I said thank you and good bye. I once was excited about this new rising Korean company, finally there is a company that can compete with the Japanese big boys. But I will never spend one penny on any Korean product, Samsung puts Korea in shame! Just look at all these problems in this thread posted by all these people! Just ordered a Sharp LCD online. Save your money, your Samsung is a money pit, color wheel, lamp, ballast, DMD, what's next? The light engine? I will post my Samsung/Korean experience on Internet, no American should waste this kind of money on these kind of crap! |
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New member Username: Mikoo1965Post Number: 3 Registered: Aug-05 | Fred123, I have the same issue of different tint of color after got new color wheel, couple of months ago. Service tech is coming back in couple of weeks to take a look at it. Please let me know, if your problem has been resolve and how. |
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New member Username: Rod_01Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-08 | If this is a repeat, sorry about that. I don't know how else to describe this issues except to say the colors are bleeding over. Anyone know what the issue is?  |
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New member Username: Localmotion00Post Number: 4 Registered: Nov-07 | Does anyone have an HLR6167W? I am looking for someone to post their Service Menu to compare to mine. I would need a service menu that has not been adjusted however and has remained at the factory defaults. I have the service manual but the default values in the manual do not match my values. The manual I have seems to be somewhat of a generic manual which covers all sizes in the 67 series; hence, the disparities. I had a problem with my component video inputs and went into the service manual. I saw the option for an Engine and when I went to see what options there were it changed. I changed it back but it seems to have screwed up some settings. Most specifically, the actuator gain went to 68 which was big time saw tooth. I brought it back to 100 but anything over that starts the saw tooth again. I also have a very mild 'shadow' down the left hand side of my screen. It's not so much like other shadows that have been mentioned as it is really only apparent in very dark scenes. I am sure that is something internal and not a service menu thing. I also get blotchiness now and it seems the processing is delayed because it doesn't handle motion anymore. The lamp sync delay is set to 120 and in the service manual and another post they are set to 0. I wasn't sure if this delay is specifically for when you turn the TV on or it affects things any time the TV is running. Anyway, if I can compare with someone's real factory settings that would be a help. If you think I should post this in another thread let me know. Thanks. |
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New member Username: Frustrated_x_10Niagara Falls, NY Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-08 | FYI (or anyone with solution) could you please help? You seem to know a lot about the Samsung projection TVs and we have a HLS5687WX/XAA that had a 2" vertical shadow on the right side that tapered toward the bottom. Luckily, we are still under warranty and the repairman came out and put a new "light engine" assembly in and all was fine for about four days...now we have a thin black horizontal line (it starts out small, about 2" long, then creeps across the whole screen) it's not there all the time, but comes and goes when we shut the TV off. Any idea what could now be wrong, before we have repairman back out? He told us that he basically put in whole new "guts" and that it would be like a brand new TV. Picture is great but this intermittent line will drive us crazy. Thanks for any, and all, help! DeniseEgon@frontiernet.net |
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New member Username: Lemondlp07Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-08 | From the looks of it, I am sure some one will know the answer to this question. I have a HLN617W1X/XAA. I have replaced the Bulb,Color wheel, and now the screen will go blank or black. If i try turning it off or changing the TV input to component 2 or 3 or DVI. The picture is upside down and mostly green. Occassionally I get the 3 lights in the front blinking simulataneously. If i unplug the set and back on it may run, between 2 hours or a day, but then always ,eventually goes blank or upside down picture/green in color. I am thinking it's either the DMD or digital board, but what is the difference between the two? or could it be the ballast? No Fans have failed there are three. Thanks very much for all help. Bought set in Sept 2004. Any chance of getting any help from Samsung? |
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New member Username: M6userPost Number: 1 Registered: Feb-08 | I've read all the posts in this forum for the past year and see quite a few "interrmintent shut-offs". I have a HLR5067 and it shuts off every time about 5-10 minutes after first power up in morning. If I try and turn it back on immediately it will keep shutting off several times before finally staying on. If I wait about 5-10 minutes before turing it back on after the first power off, it works fine until you turn it off purposely. Then if it is off for any length of time....you have to go through the routine again. I never seem to be able to spot the ideas on what might be causing this. I have the TV at a shop now and they say they can't replicate it. Since it has happened everyday for the past 3 months at my house, I have a hard time believing they can't replicate it. Doesn't make me feel warm about their expertise/customer care. Any ideas. Thanks in advance. |
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New member Username: WolfganggullichSeaside, CA Post Number: 5 Registered: Jun-07 | So, for all you HL-R series owners... I wonder how many of you that are having the color bleed over/solariztion problem have Dish Network boxes hooked up to your tvs? I had a huge problem with my now 3 yr old HL-R5067W where upon displaying any HD programming, the TV would go into a weird solarizing/bleed over glitch. This problem would even carry over onto regular broadcast channels, when I played DVDs and my Wii. We had thought that either the digital board or the input section was dying as this problem replicated the exact same symptoms. We recently moved to MD and have a Comcast HD box as well as a BluRay now and our tv no longer displys this problem. I know it didn't fix itself and this has been the only change to our setup. So, if you're having this problem and you have a DishNetwork box (in our case it was a ViP211 model box), it is VERY likely the source of all of your problems. These HL-R series tvs are not as fragile as most would like to believe. This tv has moved from TX to CA to MD, is 3 yrs old, and shows no signs of slowing down. |
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Bronze Member Username: TphanichSan Diego, CA US Post Number: 12 Registered: Dec-07 | Lance, The power shut off thing sounds like a lamp. If you've already replaced a lamp, perhaps its a problem with the ballast or power supply. |
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New member Username: M6userPost Number: 2 Registered: Feb-08 | Thanks Eddie, I'm picking it up today and delivering it to the daughters house. She gets a free TV so she can buy a new lamp if it needs it. We just bought a Sony XBR4 LCD and absolutely love it. We purchased the 4 year protection plan from Sony for $329 after reading all the horror stories on this forum. Hopefully, being a Sony, I won't need it but for this size of investment and the new technology I thought it was worth it. As to the Samsung, it may be a lamp. We watched it for 3 years and I didn't have to replace a lamp. We have DirectTV and the new TV is perfect so I don't think the type of service had anything to do with it. It can't be an overheating problem because once it comes on and stays on, it will run all day/night without a hitch. Maybe, (fingers crossed) just the hauling to the repair shop jostled something as they say it is not doing it now. But like I said, I don't have a warm fuzzy there. Thanks for offering your thoughts. I'll repost when we figure it out. |
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Bronze Member Username: Sjones1Post Number: 32 Registered: May-07 | Lance, Buy a replacement lamp for your samsung (original Philips lamp!). Swap it out with the current lamp and I'm sure your symptoms will go away...you get this symptom with time. Remember you can keep your old lamp as a spare, there is no shelf life of these bulbs. |
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New member Username: M6userPost Number: 3 Registered: Feb-08 | I'll do that Steve and thanks. Just out of curiousity, I know the Samsung has a visual lamp warning to indicate lamp failure but why would the lamp possibly bordering on failure cause the TV to shut off like that? |
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New member Username: CiscomancerAnchorage, AK USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Oct-07 | Lance, I too had the shut off problem. I called Samsung in Oct and they agreed to cover parts if i paid for labor. The tech came to the house, could not replicate and replaced the bulb. After he left when we turned the set on the volume would be at full blast but no picture. It kept happening. He ended up replacing the Digital Board, DMD, and the lamp again (??) and it worked. The 90 day on those repairs ended 2 weeks ago. Yesterday my wife called me and now it will turn on, we have no picture at all, and after 5 minutes it shuts itself off. Another issue I have is the blue LED on the power button. It has not been there in months and I cannot get Samsung customer support or the tech to believe me that it used to be there. I know there is an option to turn that LED light off in the menu, but it stopped working on its own. I call Samsung last night to try and get some help and the agent told me he would start a case with the ECR, but to not expect a call from them. This is terrible customer service. Today i faxed in my original bill of sale and my repair bills to Samsung, but frankly I am fed up with them, the TV and electronics in general. |
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New member Username: ZippychimpPost Number: 3 Registered: Jan-07 | I have a Samsung HLN 5065W purchased in 9/03 for $4,000. I have had numerous problems with it over the years, and even had the color wheel replaced under warranty about 2 years ago by Samsung. Recently, the picture would suddenly freeze and become this weird black and white pixelated image - almost like a film negative. You can still hear the sound but the picture remains frozen. I took the set to an gauthorizedh repair center in my area and they told me today that it needs a new light engine and that my DMD module is bad. They quoted me $800-$900 to fix this. I told the tech I could buy a new 50 Samsung set for about $1,000 these days. The TV is just over 4 years old, so it is no longer under warranty. It really bothers me that I paid $4,000 for this thing and it has only lasted 4 problem-plagued years. Any suggestions before I call Samsung and see if they will replace the light engine if I pay the labor to install? I would love to know any tips/tacts you have used that is successful. I have another 50 Samsung DLP I bought last year, but also bought a 4 year extended warranty on. That one only cost $1,400 so it wonft be as painful if it breaks after a few years. As much as I love the picture quality (when it works), I think I am done with Samsung and lamp-based projection technology. Looking at this thread, it is amazing how many people have had problems with these sets. Just imagine how many more have suffered in silence and not posted about their frustrations on a board like this? Samsung needs to do the right thing! These sets are lemons. |
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New member Username: M6userPost Number: 4 Registered: Feb-08 | You guys are right. Before I bought my new Sony I tried to find any strings on this website and others that mentioned any problems and couldn't find any. Tons of problems when you consider the small audience here. When you consider the number of problems each individual has had it is really amazing this hasn't been publicized or something. It is totally ridiculous that something that costs 2500-4000 should break and to this degree after only two, three or 4 years. My wife has a Samsung cell phone and it doesn't work well either. Some people stick up for Samsung and cite that "it is a new technology" as if it is alright to sell a product with for so much with so many problems. Vented enough. I'll post back after I get the TV set up at my daughters this weekend. |
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 83 Registered: May-07 | Pat, Samsung TV's have evolved greatly over the last 5 years. Your HLN series television was a beauty for its time, and still has a comparable picture to some of the later model DLPs which use the latest generation DLP chips. I wouldn't bash on Samsung because they are by far the biggest manufacturer of DLP projection TV's in the world... This is why there are so many posts on this forum.. Not because Samsung creates poor quality televisions. I'm sure when you first purchased your Samsung TV set, you were told that it will last you forever... Well, it was a "Sales Tactic".. All electronics (even those so called "reliable" LCD TVs) have problems over time... it's the nature fo the business! Either way.. I have found that the parts are also becoming cheaper and cheaper. The other day I bought a BP96-01579A color wheel for an HLT series Samsung for a measly $79, along with the BP47-0037A ballast for $69 at Discount-Merchant.com ---- Then the lamp (which used to cost over $250) when this technology was release is now at a measily $109... Pretty much rebuilt the whole 71" Samsung TV for $250 cost. I pay more than that in GAS in a 2 week period! Of course some labor goes along with that as well but some nice guides are available here: http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/guides.php for those whom are not familiar with the colorwheel, ballast, and lamp replacement procedures. All in all, if you like to get your hands a bit dirty but have a learning experience you can rebuild your DLP tv for $250 and about 4-6 hours of work! |
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New member Username: ZippychimpPost Number: 4 Registered: Jan-07 | Ovadoggvo, Thanks for your reply. But - I am told I also need a new DMD board/chip and the tech recommends it is cheaper to just get a whole new light engine. This DLP TV is turning into a money pit! I can't justify dropping $800-$900 into this when I could buy a new dlp or plasma for $1,200. I checked ebay and these sets have practically ZERO resale value as the final insult to injury. |
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New member Username: CiscomancerAnchorage, AK USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Oct-07 | Just got off the phone with the ECR. A waste of time. Here is the address for the Office of the President for Samsung if anyone wants to mail and express how crappy these TV's are. Samsung USA Office of the President 400 Valley Rd. Suite 201 Arlington, NJ 07856 |
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New member Username: SsalinaPost Number: 6 Registered: Nov-07 | Thanks Jason. I might just write my own letter to express my complete disgust with my Samsung 42" paperweight that is taking up space in my home office. I, too, called the fine folks over in the ECR and got absolutely nowhere. I'm NOT going to pay $900 to fix a 2 year old tv when I can buy a brand new BETTER one for that same money. Forget Samsung, buy Panasonic. MUCH better track record and FAR SUPERIOR product. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 109 Registered: May-07 | Ouch Steve.. You are stuck betwee a rock and a hard spot unless you can get a used DMD board.. Anyone else with problems with their sets, please post here!! I'm here to help! |
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New member Username: SsalinaPost Number: 7 Registered: Nov-07 | Well, if the fine folks in the ECR were willing to work with me, I wouldn't be so bitter. I offered to pay for labor if they would pick up the cost of the part, but they wanted nothing to do with it. It was out of warranty, period. They could care less that the $2000, not quite 2-year-old tv I bought from them now needed a $900 repair. They got their money and that's all they cared about, period. Their customers apparently mean nothing to them, so now I'm no longer one of their customers, never will be again, and will tell everyone I know not to be one of their customers. I'm in the video production field and regularly buy video equipment. Think I'm going to buy anything from Samsung ever?? Friends and co-workers constantly come to me for advice. Think I'm going to recommend Samsung to them?? Quite the opposite - I'm going to tell them to run far, far away from anything with the Samsung name on it. So, not only have they pissed off a current customer and lost that customer for life, but they've also caused that customer to do whatever they can to make sure others don't buy their products ever. They could care less about their customers, so I could care less about them Oh, and BTW, why bother putting in a used part, just to have another expensive part break down in these pieces of junk a few months later? From everything I've read on this and other boards, these tv's fail constantly. Great workmanship!! |
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Bronze Member Username: Kumar_shahNew York, NY United States Post Number: 16 Registered: Aug-06 | Steve: Agree. After seeing this Board, one would have to be a fool to by a Samsung DLP TV again. That would be getting fooled twice. Kumar |
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New member Username: ZippychimpPost Number: 6 Registered: Jan-07 | Steve & Jason, I feel your pain. ECR has failed to help me out with my HLN 5065W that I cost $4,000 just a few years ago, even though I was willing to pay for labor installation of a new light engine. It is now a useless paperweight unless it has a $900 - $1,200 repair. This, after already having to endure a color wheel that went bad within the first two years of ownership. Kumar hit the nail on the head: Fool me once Samsung - shame on you. Fool me twice - shame on me. I seriously would like to invesigate how we can file a class-action lawsuit against Samsung. Is anyone else interested in getting involved with litigation? |
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Bronze Member Username: MarshcatUnited States Post Number: 22 Registered: Dec-06 | I gave up on my Samsung 42" DLP about 1.5 yrs ago. It gave me nothing but trouble. It's still sitting in my family room. I'll get around to bringing it to the dump one of these days. The digital board on my N series went. Samsung promised they would replace it if I got a professional diagnosis. The local service center picked it up in a small van with no padding. They called me and told me "It doesn't turn on. The light engine is shattered" I told them that they broke it (which they did). Samsung wouldn't do anything. I had to fight to even get them to pay the $120 bill for pickup and "diagnosis." It sat at the shop for 40 days before they finally paid. I now have a 32" Envision LCD. I used a whole bunch of coupons and got it for $350 with next day shipping. The picture is gorgeous, it has more inputs than the Samsung, and most importantly, IT WORKS. In eight months I have had nothing but wonderful experiences. I don't care how terrible their customer service might be, because I don't have to call. When some no-name company can destroy Samsung in terms of reliability, something is wrong. |
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New member Username: CiscomancerAnchorage, AK USA Post Number: 5 Registered: Oct-07 | Litigation seems timely to me. Samsung obviously knows that there are issues with these TV's, that is why they have picked up hardware for people with expired warranties. I know there are a few websites up to help match potential clients with law firms. the easiest thing would be to find a similar prior case and contact that firm. I too will never buy Samsung again. I put down a camera and a Blackjack last week. I do have a Sammy LCD that has been flawless for me. I really do like their features etc... it's too bad these DLP's are such junk. I am curious, we seem to have a lot of TV tech's on here. Could anyone say (ballpark) what percentage of DLP repairs handled by their companies are Samsung? |
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New member Username: Localmotion00Post Number: 5 Registered: Nov-07 | Someone has already filed a class action lawsuit in regards to these TV's. I have been trying to find it myself because I will put my name on that list. If anyone else finds it post it here. I will do the same if I can find out where I saw it. It is difficult to find a real TV tech here who can answer the real tough questions as they are on to the newer technologies. I have one that still hasn't gotten an answer to and I think only someone who really knows the service menus and all the components really well would be able to answer. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 121 Registered: May-07 | I'm going to work on finding a place that can source the DMD boards for these TV's... The ideal way would be to get a cheap place that sells used, new, or refurbished DMD boards.. Then have the guys at the fixyourdlp.com website to make a "guide" for it as they have for the ballast and colorwheels... This way all these nice TV's won't go to waste. I'll start hunting tomorrow. |
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New member Username: MaxbrandSanta Barbara, CA United States Post Number: 4 Registered: Nov-07 | I went with an LCD SONY BRAVIA XBR4 52". I gave up on SAMSUNG!!! I love my Sony. Long live Sony & Blu-Ray! Finally experiencing 24p HEAVEN!!! Adios DLP! |
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New member Username: MaxbrandSanta Barbara, CA United States Post Number: 5 Registered: Nov-07 | Someone is purposely corrupting this site. Guess what company friends?!? SAMSUNG is a start-up that should stay in multiplexes until they figure out how to appeal to consumers like us. SONY LCD 52 INCH XBR4 is the shizzzatttt. Trust me. My 56" Samsung DLP is now behind my viewing chairs, waiting for me to replace the final new part: DMD board! The Korean War apparently was not about the United States kicking a#$... more like taking it up the... |
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New member Username: Dwood7Post Number: 4 Registered: Nov-07 | I'm the odd man out so to speak. I have rec'd GREAT GREAT customer service from Samsung on my almost 3 year old HL-R5067W. They have sent reliable good technicians each time. They even paid for both labor and parts this time. I guess we got lucky. Very happy customer. Will buy again. We have had the engine (light engine?...not SURE)and the digital board replaced. I paid $200 for labor the first time they came out and that was it. I did have to call executive customer care twice before they moved on it. But they did the right thing and have backed the product since. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 126 Registered: May-07 | Deborah, I agree with you.. Samsung has what is called "Certified Feild Technicians" which are under contract by samsung and receive parts support and training by Samsung. But they are ultimately subcontracted by Samsung. Either way, they get paid by Samsung to fix your TV. Which means it's costing samsung an arm and a leg to send these poeple out to your house for service and that is all part of the price for the first year. I think they do a great job and I have personally met with the west coast service supervisor of samsung. I assure you that they are not trying to lose customers or pull a fast one on people. They are a geniune manufacturer that backs their products, but up to a certain point... We can't expect them to warranty a TV after 3 years, when it comes with a 1 year warranty. The reason is, the service tech comming out to "diagnose" the TV is probably charging Samsung as much as a replacement costs to manufacture after 3 years. Samsung has sold more Rear Projection TV's since DLP technology was released than ANY OTHER MANUFACTURER in the WORLD! We expect them to have the most amount of defects, however, these defects and failures are due to normal wear and tear... I gaurantee you that the # of TV's Produced vs # of TV's Failing after 2-5 years is equivalent or better than Sony's. And i'm pretty sure that RCA is rated last on that scale.. I hope my rambling make sense. |
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New member Username: Badbrad8Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-08 | I have a HLM507W. It is probably 5 years old. The past few weeks it has been very loud (I assume the color wheel). Now I am getting this picture. See below. My wife wants me to get a new TV but I want to see what repairs could be done first & an approximate cost. Any ideas? Please advise the picture is pretty bad. Thanks.  |
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New member Username: TboldPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-08 | Hello All. New to this site, as I have just recently been subjected to the Samsung DLP woes. I have been reading and researching what is going on with my TV and am narrowing it down based on this forum. However, a "gut Check" is in order. I have a 56" DLP (HLR5667WAX) that will not come on. When I hit the power button it starts to turn on and I can hear the Fan going, the Light comes on and I think I can hear the color wheel working. I have had no help from Samsung as it is out of warranty (2 years old), so I got it diagnosed and was told it was the Digiital Board. Because of the high mark-up that I was going to be charged for the part and the labor, I decided to do it myself. I did ge tthe new digital board and replace it, but it did the same thing. I see in other posts that similar problems are being diagnosed as the DMD board. My questions is, could that be the problem, or is it the Power Board, a Fan, or something else? Based on what I am hearing, diagnosis is a "crap shoot". BTW: I am open to a Class Action Lawsuit, as I think these things are made to break. |
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New member Username: IhatesamsungPost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-07 | There were plenty of lawsuit against this corrupted pos company: I went to a Korean town a few weeks ago, I saw tons of Japanese cars, only one Hunydai. Even their own people don't trust Korean brands! I have been linking this thread in many other forums and message boards, this company doesn't deserve a penny from America! |
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New member Username: DaleePost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | I've gone through this board, but haven't seem anything quite like the problem I'm having. I have an HLR5067W. It went into screen black/sound on mode, and the remote and side buttons have no effect. To power it off, I have to unplug it. When I plug it back in, the power comes on, the picture and sound come on, and I can control it for ~30 seconds - then the picture goes to black, the sound is on, and no control. When I press a control button on the remote, the "Timer" light flashes in the power button. Any ideas?? Thanks.... |
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New member Username: DrtaylorPost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | HAs anyone ever had their remote just stop working alltogether. Samsung HLR46/77WX It won't do anything even after trying to reset it like manual said. DirecTV remote still operates except for volume and on/off. Have to use the side keys. anyone?????? thanks |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 135 Registered: May-07 | Brad, The problem you are describing seems to be the colorwheel! I'm assuming that your TV model is HLN507W and not HLM507W... Part number is BP96-00250A .. find it and replace it.. A good step by step installation guide is available at http://guides.fixyourdlp.com .... There is a slight chance that the colorwheel replacement may not fix the issue, but chances that it does are pretty high.. Good luck.. let us know how it goes! |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 136 Registered: May-07 | Terry Bolding, In a "no power" scenario the first three checks are 1. Lamp, 2. Ballast, 3. Colorwheel ... I'm assuming the problem is not the lamp.. You should check the ballast! Does the TV make a "click" noise from the ballast when the power button is pressed? Does it make a single "click" or multiple "clicks"... To test your power supply, simply check for voltage feeding into your ballast.. Here is what the cable going to the ballast looks like: http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/samsung/bp47-00033a/bp47-00033a_Samsung_Ballast_BP4 7-00033A_For_Sale_San_Diego_619-710-2637_x203_855.jpg Make sure the switch for the lamp cover is on when you try to power the TV in order to see if its pumping power to the ballast. If your ballast is bad, a replacement guide is available here: http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/samsung/bp47-00033a.php You may also want to check your colorwheel to assure it is spinning freely and it has not locked up... Let us know what you find. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 137 Registered: May-07 | Dale Miller and Dale Taylor, You guys should first try to reset to factory defaults on the TV to see if the charictaristics or symptoms of the problem you are experiecing changes. To enter the service menu, simply unplug your TV while it is in the OFF position... Wait 2 minutes... Plug it back in.... On the remote control in a evently timed sequence.. press Mute..1..8..2..Power... The TV should turn on into the service menu.. You want to reset the TV's settings (but not lamp hours unless you are changing your lamp)... Factory defaults should load... Turn the TV OFF... Wait a few minutes, and repower. Let us know if the charactaristics of the problems change! |
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New member Username: DrtaylorPost Number: 2 Registered: Apr-08 | Thanks for the reply ovadoggvo but it did not work the remote still is dead in the water. I'm thinking of getting back in there to see if anything is loose near the signal receptor. Maybe something wiggled loose when I changed the color wheel. |
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New member Username: SeandinneenPost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | After reading the above posts, the problem I am having with my Samsung HLR5067W is most like Dale Miller's. After being on for 5 minutes, the picture will freeze with the sound on, then the sound will go out and then finally the tv appears to reset. It will work for no more than 3 minutes and then start the process all over again. During this 20 second period, the remote control and all buttons on the tv are useless. I tried reseting the tv's settings, but that did not work. Thank you in advance! |
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New member Username: LoueegAtlanta, Georgia USA Post Number: 2 Registered: May-08 | Hey Sean, I can't say that I have a fix for what's going on, but I've heard a lot of people say that cleaning/replacing the fan may fix the issue that you're experiencing. It's a shame, but in tvs nowadays you can't just fix one thing and be over with. There are a lot of things that are interconnected in DLP tvs like the lamp, ballast, dmd board, and light engine. |
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New member Username: Localmotion00Post Number: 6 Registered: Nov-07 | I agree with the assessment that there are a lot of moving parts in these TVs. I still love DLP technology. The thing I think that really pisses us off is the fact that they don't have an extended warranty on their own. I have a car with 1000 more moving parts than my TV and I never had to replace parts a year after I bought at 30-40% of its value. If you are someone who bought a TV at 1/2 of it's original cost then it costs you 80% of it's value to fix it. That's ludicrous. My transmission has a 100,000 mile warranty. That's 4-5 years or more. Why can't a frickin' TV have that? It sits in the same place day in and day out. Exposed to approximately the same temperature every day. The humidity rises and falls with the seasons. Doesn't see snow, rain, wind. See where I am going with this? They set the industry standard, not us. So until we do something about it or the industry decides it wants to compete against itself and manufacturers start offering longer warranties, it will never happen. |
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New member Username: LschradepharmdLas Vegas, NV USA Post Number: 1 Registered: May-08 | Can someone tell me what this issue might be? I have a Samsung DLP model HLN617W. I was watching tv and the screen went black and white, I heard a small pop, and then the tv shut off. I replaced the lamp, and now I get a picture but it's black and white and the picture is "jumpy". What needs to be replaced now? Or are these just crappy tv's and now I should buy a mitsubishi? |
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New member Username: LawdogPost Number: 3 Registered: Sep-05 | A HAPPILY EVER AFTER (so far?) STORY Wow -- Am I happy I listened to some of the people on this message board about PERSISTENCE! I have a HLR5067W that I bought in Spring 2005. About 6 months ago, started getting crazy fluorescent green dots popping up all over the screen (and sometimes big blocks of green), but then other times, the picture was perfect. The problem was diagnosed by PC Richards technicians as the Light Engine (or possibly DMD Board). Unfortunately, I should have bought the *3* year extended warranty, b/c I had run out of my 2-year warranty, and the part cost $585, with $199 labor + tax - $838 to fix it! At that price, I thought I was going to "total" the TV, and just buy a new one --- UNLESS Samsung could help me...? I faxed Executive Customer Service an imploring letter asking them to at least cover the part (as per this board), and called them twice. The 2nd woman I spoke to basically said "sorry, you're out of luck." I couldn't believe it. When I told her I would never buy a Samsung again, and could that possibly be their policy, she said she'd elevate it to her supervisor, but 2 weeks passed, and I never heard a thing. I was ready to give up, but thought I'd give it one more chance. WELL, GUESS WHAT? Today I called again, told a different Rep the same story, told them I had asked the problem to be elevated 2 weeks ago, and know what he told me? SAMSUNG WILL PAY FOR THE PARTS AND LABOR!!!! WOW!!! Samsung has kept me as a customer!! They're sending a contract-repair service to my house in 3 days to fix it. Just wow. Assuming it all works out, I will have really dodged a bullet! |
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New member Username: JuicegPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-08 | i have a samsung HLS6187WX and its making a loud rattling noise and the picture flickers i also noticed it takes a long time for the tv to power off for example i turn it off and the screen goes dark but the rattling continues i have already changed the color wheel but it did not help, the noise sounds like its coming from the lens thanks in advance. |
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New member Username: KcortazzoPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-08 | i have a samsung hlp5663W and i have changed the bulb, the color wheel and the ballast and the television still is not working right. i took out the jumper when i changed the wheel to make the colors right, but now, it shuts off and on by itself. have to unplug/plug it in repeatedly to make it work. i only here the volume then it will cycle through about 5 on/off's then comes on, but the picture if not right. lastly, the power button no longer works....any one have any suggestions on what i can do to bring the thing back to life? |
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New member Username: LesterdPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-08 | I have the same model (HLR5067W) and EXACTLY the same symptoms as Dale Miller. I'm going to try cleaning out the guts of it and doing the factory reset that ovadoggvo recommends and let you know if it makes any difference. |
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New member Username: LesterdPost Number: 2 Registered: Jul-08 | Well, tried the Mute 1 8 2 Power sequence, but nothing happens. Problem with this approach in this situation maybe that you can't actually plug the set it and have it be in the 'Off' position, 'cos as soon as I plug it in, it comes on by itself with the symptoms described previously. Don't know what to do next, certainly not willing to sink any money into trying various part-replacement options, since it seems like that's a crap-shoot and I could sink a couple of grand into a set I only paid $1800 for 2 1/2 years ago. I'll try strongarming Samsung support tomorrow and see if they're willing to fix it for free. Otherwise, it a trip to the dump and a new (non-Samsung, non-DLP) set on the horizon. What a bummer! |
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New member Username: MapsteamPost Number: 2 Registered: Jul-08 | I have a HLP5663WX/XAA (2004)after about 30 seconds TV starts to buzz. The picture and everything else is still fine. any help would be appreciated. |
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New member Username: DaleePost Number: 2 Registered: Apr-08 | I managed to fix mine. It was what I suspected - it was hanging trying to go to TV Guide (never did figure how to turn off that feature). What I did was to disconnect the cable connection from the TV, and then power it up. It seems that once it figured out that there was no connection, it went past trying to get to TV guide, and came up ok. Then I connected the cable again, and it's fine. It did it once again a few months later, and the same "fix" took care of it. Give it a shot. |
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New member Username: LesterdPost Number: 3 Registered: Jul-08 | Dale, Thanks for letting me know how you fixed yours. I got excited about trying this, but it didn't work for me. Nothing changed. Lamp seems to be working OK, getting a frozen pixelated image, but remote and side buttons still not getting any response. Don't know what to try next. |
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New member Username: Csamm3Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-08 | I have a HLR4667. I purchased the set about 2.5 years ago. All of the sudden the set started making an obscene sound and the TV shut down with the usual LEDs. Samsung CS insists its the lamp but I don't see how the lamp can make such a noise. I took the back off and the fans are working as they should. I tried reseeding the lamp but still no luck. Any help is appreciated! FYI, of course I do not have a spare lamp nor did I purchase the extended warranty. The $2200 I spent was all I had at the time and I fell victim to the awesome picture. My original plan was to only spend $1000 and as you can see, I was way over budget! Thanks in advance! CSAMM3 |
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New member Username: YlhandlzWestminster, CO USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-08 | I've really enjoyed reading through these posts and seeing a lot of great solutions put to use. I own a HLN507WX/XAA purchased 6/2003 which had a colorwheel replacement under its extended service plan (Ultimate Electronics/Soundtrack) last year. I was really happy to have this replaced before having to pay for repairs out of pocket, but now after reading this thread I'm fearful of something worse going wrong. My problem now is that I'm getting the "3 blinking lights" after power up and perfect picture shown for 30 seconds. Since I replaced the lamp in November, my assumption was that I needed to replace the ballast. I'm about to order, but I'm concerned that I'll just be ordering another lamp if the new ballast doesn't do the trick. If it's the DMD board, then this things going to the dump but I'd still be out another $200-250 in parts. Should I attempt to do this work or see if Sammy will pay parts if I pay labor? It seems pretty obvious if I can get that service approved, but it's a pretty old tv (relatively speaking) and obviously not under warranty. The lamp I replaced was in a Toshiba housing, so I might do the Phillips switch out of the lamp and ballast as suggested by fixyourdlp. Opinions? |
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New member Username: Geekboy29Post Number: 1 Registered: Sep-08 | Hello i have a HLN507WX/XAA and the brightness is slowly fading, i can still see a picture but its getting darker. Is it safe to say it is just a bulb that needs replacing? |
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New member Username: Scottamb2112Manor, Tx Usa Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-08 | I have a Samsung 56 Dlp tv model # HLS5686W. I bought the tv 12/2006. The tv has little white dots all over the screen. It started about 2 weeks ago with about 5 dots and now there are over 20 dots all over the screen. They almost look little little stars and some of them are blinking. Has anyone else had this problem? I was told it may be the light engine. Any suggestions would be great!! Thanks, Scott |
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New member Username: Seablu003Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | We have a HLR5067W and it has been great until now. All of the sudden it has become all pixelated with flashes of white and purple lines. Everything is like that except the tv prompt boards and the HD. Those are both fine. All we can think of is that it is out av components that are not hd are broken. Has anyone had this problem? |
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New member Username: Mickey_rnSummerville, SC United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | Hi all, I have an HLP5063 WX/XXA with the message Check Fan 2 flashing on the screen. I have checked and replaced said fan (it was the one cooling the lamp) and the message continues to flash on the screen. Is there some service menu option to reset this message or have I missed something else? Thank you for your assistance in this matter. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 206 Registered: May-07 | Guys, I appologize for being away for such a long time. I was out of the country for 3 weeks and have now returned! My first look at Discount-Merchant.com and I see that they have LIGHT ENGINES, OPTICAL BLOCKS, and DMD BOARDS online! They don't seem to have much of them right now but it's good news for everyone here that had a DMD issue, or the LIGHT TUNNEL issue. If you had a bad DMD you can search here for your DMD: http://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=DMD+Board If you had a "Shadow Effect" on one side of the screen, you will need the OPTICAL BLOCK which in the photos seem to come with the Light Tunnel that is collapsing! Can be found here: http://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=optical+block Prices seem to be very reasonable and I'm assuming these are used/refurbished parts. Either way, it beats paying $700-$1100 for the parts! DMD Boards seem to be running for $179 from what I see so far! Huge savings and I don't know how many they have but you might want to get them before you miss the opportunity. I will be back within the later days to help you guys out some more... |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 207 Registered: May-07 | Lisa Schrade, Your color wheel is what made the pop noise and is now causing a Black/White picture. Part number BP96-00250A. Good Luck! Tom Mullins, GREAT NEWS! I'm sure Samsung really wants to maintain their customers in this financial crisis. I'm glad it worked out! |
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New member Username: HarrycarayClearwater, Fl Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | So I replaced the lamp and lamp ballast on my dlp rear projection tv. After 30 minutes, the screen went black and there was a loud buzz for a few seconds when the tv shut down. All three lights in hte front of the tv were blinking. Any help with that? |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 208 Registered: May-07 | Michael, Only thing left is Colorwheel then.. Buzzing can be caused by a bad ballast, colorwheel, or cooling fan... Nothing else makes a noise, unless it's comming from you speaker. |
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New member Username: Elpanda23Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | I'VE BEEN LOOKING AT THIS PAGE BECAUSE I HAVE BEEN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MY 3 AND A HALF YEAR OLD DLP HL-R5067W T.V. THE FIRST TIME I HAD A PROBLEM WITH MY T.V. WAS YESTERDAY IT LOOKED EXACTLY LIKE THE PICTURE POSTED BY BRAD ON MARCH 27, 2008 AND THEN TODAY WHEN I TRIED TO TURN ON THE T.V. THE IMAGE AND SOUND WOULDN'T COME ON (THE SCREEN IS BLACK) BUT THE FAN AND LAMP WERE ON BUT YOU CAN'T TURN IT OFF WITH THE REMOTE OR WHEN YOU PUSH THE BUTTON THEN AFTER A LITTLE WHILE LIKE A MINUTE IT TURNS OFF BY ITSELF. I HAVE BEEN LOOKING THAT OVADOGGVO HAS BEEN HELPING A LOT OF PEOPLE CAN YOU HELP ME?? |
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New member Username: LesterdPost Number: 4 Registered: Jul-08 | Well, since my last post way back in July 2008, the TV has been sitting in my living room. A techy friend came over just before Christmas and I wanted to show him what the symptoms were, plugged in the set and IT WAS WORKING! I was amazed. It stayed working all through the Holidays, and then, one morning about a week ago, it stopped again...same thing, when you plug in the set the Lamp light flashes continuously, the picture is frozen and pixelated, the sound is on, but none of the buttons respond to any action and the remote doesn't work. Does anyone know what this might be? I'd be willing to replace a part (or 2) if someone has successfully fixed this kind of problem, but not prepared to sink good money into a black hole. cheers, --Lester |
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New member Username: DamogonPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | I was playing a game on my Samsung 50" DLP and the picture cut out and I saw all three lights cut on. I turned it off, it turned back on by itself. Now I have to unplug it to keep it off. It will constantly turn on and off and the bulbs won't turn on. I tried checking the bulb but it is fine. Can any one help, it is only a year old and it's an HL-T model. |
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New member Username: TopoPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | I have a hln507w1w/xaa. I've had the pleasure of having almost all of the symptoms of all the threads. Junk since the beginning. The service dept has all the phone logs, I even spoke to the E.C. service department a dozen times-- no help. I replaced the color wheel, $350-- stay with me here-- TV starts freezing in black and white-dmd time-- The thing's completely nuts by now. So I decide to write a letter to the office of the president explaining how extremely unhappy I am with set and service ,and blood pressure is rising through no fault of my own. Letter consisted of all facts since day one, and I implored Samsung to study the matter at hand. I'm not right because I say I'm right, I'm right because the facts say I'm right. The letter was sent 3 months ago, and I've yet to receive a reply. Never did I think you could write a letter to a major corporation and not receive a reply back. Now boys and girls, I'm MADDER THAN HELL, and I refuse to take their crappy BS. When you shell out $3200 bucks of your hard-earned money plus 350 for repairs in two years, something is WRONG. The service rep said to me on the phone, and I QUOTE, "Well what do you expect, it's almost two years old?" I almost went through the phone. If an old TV can last ten years, why can't these?! After reading all these threads for the past year on MULTIPLE sites, I feel we have been totally ripped off. Samsung knows there is a problem and refuses to acknowledge it! I am not some sue-happy jerk running around, but I DEFINITELY feel we, as a whole, have been ripped off. Is anyone thinking about class action? |
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Bronze Member Username: PotentialjvcownerPost Number: 95 Registered: Sep-06 | After reading this thread, which I subscribed to in 2006 as I was about to buy an HDTV, I have a few thoughts: 1. I sure am glad I deceided to buy the JVC and not the Samsung. The JVC has been flawless and totally trouble free, and my one concern (bulb life) has not been an issue (now coming up on 5,000 hours on the 2006 original bulb) 2. It is proving to have been a waste of money, but for $250 I bought an extended 4-year warranty (which includes one free $200 bulb at any time I want it during the 4-year warranty period). Seeing the posts here, although my JVC set has been trouble free, it seems clear to me that extended warranties were a good idea in this class of sets. Maybe not with an LCD set (that's all low-voltage stable technology), but with any of the projection technologies, as well as with all of the DMD (DLP) sets (note: The JVC sets do NOT use DMD (DLP) technology), it was justified. Of course that is water over the dam for most of you now ... either you did or you didn't buy an extended warranty. [BTW, after all the rebates and incentives, I only paid about $1,300 or so for my 57" JVC (and that was in December 2006)]. |
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New member Username: Ds5775Post Number: 3 Registered: Feb-08 | My Samsung 50 inch DLP was working fine and now it has just started doing this after about 6-8 hours the whole pic turns green, still has sound. I unplug it from the back on TV and plug it back in and it works fine for 6-8 hours. I already replaced the lamp from direct merchants great site!! Anyone know what my problem could be? |
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New member Username: ChaunceyUS Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | Drew, My HL-R5667 purchased in Nov 2005 developed the infamous green screen plaid pattern problem about a month ago. The analog TV and component inputs had the green problem, but the HDMI and PIP pictures were normal. I knew professional service was going to be a hassle and expensive, so I have resigned myself to scrapping the set and resolved to never buy any Samsung product again. Based on information on this board (posters here are very helpful) and elsewhere, I reasoned that my green screen problem was due to a failure on the analog board. Just for the heck of it, I bought a refurb board from Discount Merchants. It was a very easy swap out, but it did not solve my problem. I observed that with a few attempts of unplugging the set and restarting, I could get the set to boot normally with no green screen on any input. Rather than put more money into repairs, I have decided to leave the set on 24/7 until it fails completely (then I buy a Sony). It made more sense to waste electricity than sink more money into such an unreliable product. The analog board swap is very easy. Lots of connectors, but they are all unique. Swapping the digital board is a much more involved process. I wonder if many of the Samsung DLP problems could originate with the power supply? Low voltage and noise can cause erratic behavior in digital circuits. |
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New member Username: LabnpeiPost Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | hi all, new to this forum but thought you guys might give me a good idea of what to do. i have a samsung 4676 dlp that for two nights in a row randomly shut itself off. i was able both times to turn it back on and continue watching it the rest of the night each night that it did that. it seems that this is a fairly common problem with these sets. i have had mine for about 2years and 3 months with no other problems with the set. my question is this, is this the beginning of the end for my set? there is no way i can try to fix it myself, and i certainly don't want to spend lots of $ to bring it in and fix it either. should i just wait until it just dies or go out now and replace it with an lcd while prices are so low? i am also assuming there is no risk of still using it for now-i only paid a grand for it new and can now get a new lcd for about the same amount if it is an expensive fix. its a shame that these sets almost seem disposable but the repairs make it that way. thanks for any help |
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New member Username: ChaunceyUS Post Number: 2 Registered: Jan-09 | Hi Laurel, I have a different model, but had the same problem. I traced it to the blue interlock switch inside the lamp door panel that turns the set off when the cover is removed. There is poor alignment between the switch lever and door panel so that any slight expansion of the panel (due to heat perhaps?) causes the interlock to trip. I solved it by putting a tie wrap around the switch lever so that the interlock never trips. I've had plenty of problems with my set since, but no more random shutdowns. Good luck |
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New member Username: Ds5775Post Number: 4 Registered: Feb-08 | My 50inch Samsung DLP turns green after being on for a while, I unplug it and plug it back in and works fine for a while. What can I want to fix it myself so does anyone know what the problem is and what I should but from dir. merch. to fix this problem or should I just keep unplugging it until it goes all the way out and buy a sony or another brand. also I have a 37 inch Funuai LCD and it is only a year old and it now had a red line down the middle of the screen anyone had this problem also? |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 253 Registered: May-07 | Guys, If you guys can post your symptoms in this thread, I'll be glad to help you out: https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-video/14343.html It's hard for me to post and help people in multiple threads so your patience is appreciated. There is also a lot of similar simptoms and solutions there as well that may resolve your issues. |
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New member Username: LabnpeiPost Number: 2 Registered: Feb-09 | hi guys, last night i was watching my 4676 which ahs not shut itself down in over a week-well, i put it on sleep timer and after 30 minutes it shut itself off-that is good. then i see a flashing green light flash maybe 4 times-hard to say as i was already facing the wrong way ready to fall asleep-now what is wrong with this tv? |
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New member Username: SsalinaPost Number: 8 Registered: Nov-07 | The problem is that it's a Samsung, plain and simple. They make junk! I'll never, ever, ever touch their products again, and have advised everyone I know to do the same. Oh, and their customer service is horrible. They don't care about their customers, only their bottom line. Samsung is horrible. |
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New member Username: LabnpeiPost Number: 3 Registered: Feb-09 | i know its a piece of junk, but do i replace or just wait for the slow agonizing death. if only i knew when it will die as prices seem pretty good on sony lcds lately. i guess its a wait and see thing |
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New member Username: San_antonioPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-09 | Ovadoggvo, I have a 46" HL-P4663W Samsung. I have read thru all the traffic and my color and screen seem to be fine, but the Fan-like clicking and buzzing is getting worse, yet no warning LED lights or picture/screen changes. You had already replied to one with "Only thing left is Colorwheel then.. Buzzing can be caused by a bad ballast, colorwheel, or cooling fan... Nothing else makes a noise, unless it's comming from you speaker." If my picture is fine, is my problem a simple matter of some debris in the fan? or can the color wheel and/or ballast be causing the noise even though the screen and color seem fine, |
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New member Username: GwosdenPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-09 | My problem is that I can't switch to cable source on my HLS6187WX/XAA. I only get component 2 or Air sources. What should I do?} |
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New member Username: Swilder0123Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-09 | I have a 46" HL-P4663W (manufactured 8/04, purchased 9/04) and it just today developed a symptom I haven't seen described here: vertical light thin stripes, like pinstripes, about an inch apart, spaced uniformly across the picture. They are brighter at the top than the bottom of the picture, and they actually seem like reflected light, as they have some movement and variation in color. I replaced the lamp about 3 months ago, before which the only thing done to the set was a warranty replacement of the color wheel about 6 months after we got the set. The stripes go away spontaneously every once in a while. The stripes are not related to any source...they appear whenever the set is on. There are no other abnormalities in the picture or in the set in general. I'm thinking it's the light engine as it almost seems like stuck mirrors or something like that. |
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New member Username: SrvPost Number: 1 Registered: May-09 | Help! Have Samsung HRL5067w Bought it 4 years ago, had Color Wheel replaced in Nov.,now keeps shutting down. left hand corner appears HDMI, I unplug tv then wait awhile. It evidently will run again. Also have 4" wide shaded left hand side of screen from top to bottom. Just did replace lamp hoping this would help. Is this TV worth saving? |
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New member Username: ChaunceyUS Post Number: 3 Registered: Jan-09 | Saralee, IMO, the set is not worth spending more on repair. I have the same model. After 3800 hrs (about 3 years of use), it developed the infamous green plaid screen problem. In January of this year, I replaced the lamp and a board, but it did not solve the problem. However, a few days later, I turned the set on and it booted with no problems. I then decided to just leave it on. It has been operating fine ever since, but when it fails again, it goes in the trash and will be replaced with a Sony LCD. No more Samsung for this family. |
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New member Username: MscompwizzGonzales , La USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Aug-09 | For everyone out there with Green screen Samsung HRL5667w when you turn it on and are tired of plugging and unplugging it , I think I have found a cheep fix for some of you ----If you are using the regular cable company coax cable to connect your tv to your cable box or just from the wall ---see if you can from or you may even have an HDMI connection from your cable box to your tv . Change to the HDMI connection, It has worked for me ,I did have to go to cox and get a digital box so I could put the coax into it then go from it to HDMI to my TV. I had read so many messages about the digital board that I new i could come up with a way to bypas it ..and it worked $13 is better than a new tv |
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New member Username: ChaunceyUS Post Number: 4 Registered: Jan-09 | Debbie, Several others have commented on how HDMI worked while the analog inputs exhibited the green screen problem. I had the same problem with my HLR-5667 about 10 months ago, so I ordered a replacement digital board from discount-merchants.com. Before it arrived, my green screen problem suddenly disappeared! I decided to just leave the set on 24/7. And so it was until last week when everything suddenly went green. I turned the set off and it would not restart. I then replaced the digital board (a surprisingly easy task) and it fired right up and works like new. I continue to leave it on 24/7. If I burn out the lamp, so be it--that is the only additional repair cost I will accept. No more Samsung for me. Next time this set fails, it gets replaced with a Sony. |
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New member Username: Chrisv2069Post Number: 1 Registered: Oct-09 | Did anyone know what the problem was for Rod at post Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 03:30 pm: I have the same problem Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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New member Username: JonyholtFresno, CA United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Oct-09 | I'm not sure exactly what is wrong with my tv but im hoping its not the DMD. Does anyone have any ideas? 56" Samsung HLR-5668WX/XAA  |
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New member Username: Chrisv2069Post Number: 2 Registered: Oct-09 | Well Jony I hope someone gives you some info no one has replied to me yet.And I have the same problem as Rod on Jan 6 and there were no replies for him either?? |
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New member Username: Bluejay957Carrollton, TX USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-10 | I have a hln567w which I have replaced the lamp on. I have been getting a high pitched sound that goes away once the set warms up. Now I am getting a "CHECK FAN NO. 2" message. With all the problems with these sets, should I invest much in repairs. |
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New member Username: Clayrbrown5Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-10 | Im gonna make this short, HL56A650 went to reset lamp hours and ended up changing the lamp to "pulse," naturally my set cycles off and on until I unplug it from the wall, how do I reset to factory defaults without turning the TV on? Do I have a service port that I can use computer software to adjust this back to normal? |
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New member Username: Chekmi21Post Number: 2 Registered: Apr-10 | Hi Guys, I have a Samsung HL-R6768WX/XAA DLP TV. I got the infamous Grey Bar. I called Samsung and they said that they would send a service tech to my house. If it is the light tunnel then they'll change it out free of charge, but if its not the light tunnel, I have to pay for the guy coming out. This is what it looks like, can you confirm that this is the light tunnel issue?  |
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New member Username: Madman1973Post Number: 1 Registered: May-10 | samsung hlp5063w DLP 50" Has red highlights around everything. Bad bulb? |
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New member Username: Madman1973Post Number: 2 Registered: May-10 | this is what it looks like |
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Silver Member Username: PotentialjvcownerPost Number: 105 Registered: Sep-06 | Tony, probably not a bulb. Could just be severely misadjusted picture controls. |
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New member Username: Db61611Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-10 | I have a Samsung HL-S5087W. I bought it new Feb 07. It has worked fine until a few nights ago. The picture suddenly froze ( I could still see the frozen frame of the show) and a loud noise started coming from the TV. The noise was like a loud and continuous hum. I tried to turn it off by pushing the round button on the front of the set. It would not work so I unplugged it. The next morning I plugged it back in and it automatically came on....no picture, but the lamp house was lit and it sounded like a fan was on. It would not turn off so I unplugged it. Later that day , I tried it again. I plugged it in and nothing....good I thought... So I pushed the round button and the lamp light blinked 28 times, the lamp housing behind the set lights up, the fan turns on, there is no picture on the screen, nothing. I can turn it off with the round button. I have no idea what happened. Its three years and 3 months old. I have never changed the lamp either because I don't use the TV that often. Any ideas ? I have read all the posts and didn't see any that say the lamp light blinks 28 times. |
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New member Username: Uwdawg95Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-10 | Don, I have the same problem with my HL-R5067W. I power it on, the lamp is lit, the fan is running, but there is no picture. I tried removing the lamp housing and putting it back in and that worked. But when I went to turn it on the next morning, it does it again. I'm looking for any ideas/ solutions also! |
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New member Username: Db61611Post Number: 2 Registered: Jun-10 | I have yet to do anything with my TV. I talked to a guy over the phone who said it sounds like the color wheel. My bulb will be needing changed soon(if it worked that is) and to add the cost of a color wheel and labor and I think I am going to get a new TV on Black Friday if not sooner. Walmart has 42's for $400 online. |
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New member Username: Db61611Post Number: 3 Registered: Jun-10 | The service tech said it was my digital board and for $340 he will fix it.... |
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New member Username: ChaunceyUS Post Number: 5 Registered: Jan-09 | My HL-R5667 started exhibiting the infamous green screen problem about 18 months ago. I ordered a refurbished digital board (BP41-00237B) from discountmerchant.com (DM) for $69.95 and that solved my problem. Lots of problems with these sets can be traced to the digital board (I heard that Samsung had a manufacturing problem with brittle solder developing cracks with temperature changes, but can't confirm the story). DM's price for the same board today is $159.95! No way would I put serious money into having a DLP set repaired, especially a Samsung! It's really MECHANICAL TV technology! I haven't had to replace the color wheel yet, but it's just a matter of time before it goes out. The next big problem I have with it, the set goes in the trash and I'll be replacing it with a Panasonic LCD. |
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New member Username: JumpstreetPost Number: 1 Registered: Oct-10 | Ran into a thread in another forum that was discussing the multitude of Bad Digital Boards in the Samsung HLR5667W models. I know this same board is in many other models as well. I also see that Samsung is not helping those of us out of warranty'er's...If you have a bad Digital board from one of the defective DLP's this guy has been successfully refluxing the DNlE chips for about $40. http://jdelectronicsinc.com/ Evidently, that bad glue is spread throughout my whole set, eh? I ws also a victim of the "little tunnel" defect ;-) Anyway, after speaking to Jeff at JD's, I am convinced my Sammy can be repaired once again. He explained to me that he tests the boards first to determine/confirm the problem then does the voodoo that he does and baddabing, the TV's work again! He said he refluxed about 600 of these boards in the past few.... The board is an easy enough removal but instead of popping it out of the chassis, I left it in where it has a little more protection for shipping. Cost a few more bucks in weight but it really doesn't cost that much to ship 3 lbs. to Michigan compared to the $400 cost to replace the DB via Samsung. I'll report back on the outcome. Mark |
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New member Username: Localmotion00Post Number: 8 Registered: Nov-07 | I sent my board out to JD but didnt have any luck with it. It was rather a strange process to send it out there as the communication was up and down. I never got any feedback to whether or not he actually did something. I hope for you it works. I would love to have my TV working normally again but think I will just throw it in the junkyard and buy something new. This no HD thing is killing me. |
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New member Username: JumpstreetPost Number: 2 Registered: Oct-10 | Well, my symptoms epitomize the issue. Green plaid effect on screen, Samsung Tech said "bad DB" and the HDMI still works. None of the AVI's are working and the reception of the Analog sig's stopped rendering onscreen. Were your symptoms similar? Appreciate the response ;-) Mark |
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New member Username: Localmotion00Post Number: 9 Registered: Nov-07 | Knock on wood my symptoms are that bad. Mine started as I lost the HDMI input one day. I was watching TV and then got the 'no input signal' across my TV. Not happy with that I started poking around. Finally ended up in the service menu and goofed up in there by accidentally changing the engine option. Got it back to 'almost' normal but I have a shadow on the left side now you can see in dark scenes. Probably a tunnel issue that I helped create. After that my component inputs stopped working so currently I'm down to S-Video. The only time I really get to enjoy it still is I watch a lot of things from my PC so I am connected by VGA which gives me good resolution but still Analog. I probably should just put a tuner card in my PC and watch the satellite through that....(think I might be onto something here ) Outside of pretty much all my digital inputs not working, I haven't had any other crazy issues with it. I did see a digital board posted in an old link I had for around $200. My problem with that is do I want to spend $200 to 'try' and bring my TV back to new, or do I go and spend $1500 and buy a new plasma or something like that? I have the HLR6167W so I'm in the upper price range of whatever I buy if I want to keep that size. Like you, I also read a lot of people who had the reflow work for them. For the $40 it's worth a shot. You can blow $40 buying a couple six packs so it's just a matter of if you want to see the green plaid affect on 56" of real estate or throughout the entire room when you are 8 bottles in |
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New member Username: ChaunceyUS Post Number: 6 Registered: Jan-09 | I was able to solve the green plaid problem on my HLR-5667 with a replacement board from Discount-Merchants. That was over a year ago when their price for a board was only $69!. The board is completely connectorized, but I had to remove the rubbery adhesive on two of the cable connectors going to the analog board. The setup menu changes afterwards were minimal, nothing esoteric. The job was easier than it may sound. It's been working great ever since, but when it fails, I won't be replacing it with another Samsung. My other TVs are Panasonic--never a problem. |
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Platinum Member Username: PlymouthCanada Post Number: 15369 Registered: Jan-08 | Chauncy All DLP TV's brand experiment many problems, also Panasonic! |
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New member Username: ChaunceyUS Post Number: 7 Registered: Jan-09 | Plymouth I'm done with DLP technology. At least the newer ones don't have lamps that burn out (use LEDs) and mechanical color wheels that shatter. My Panasonics are LCD and run cooler than plasma, so I'll stick with LCD. |
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Platinum Member Username: PlymouthCanada Post Number: 15373 Registered: Jan-08 | OK I think like you that LCD's TV are the best for now, the plasma lose the brightness too faster! Some peoples experiment problems with new LED technology, I hope yours is OK! I have a 52" Aquos LCD which consumes 360 watts, much more to compared with my old reliable RCA rear tubes projection good for 140 watts. |
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New member Username: JumpstreetPost Number: 3 Registered: Oct-10 | When I purchased my DLP I was faced with the same questions you were. Would DLP or LCD prevail? Both looked great! The fact that the NFL was pushing DLP technology was a persuasive effort with me. And I remain steadfast that a football game never looked better than on my set. And lets not forget that I was really intrigued with the fact that I would "ONLY need to replace a bulb". Yep! as my wife reminds me that we have yet to "replace a bulb...." Okay, the latest with my case after contacting the NJAG. They contacted me via email within 2 days and Samsung followed up less than 1 week after initial form filing with NJAG Office.(last week sometime)I recieved a certified from NJAG yesterday NOV. 9, 2010 Samsung was quick to remind me that I was almost 5 years out of warranty and were reluctant to replace the failing Digital Board. I thanked her very much and asked her to send me the part. "No way as we will not be held liable for that." was the reply. I kindly let her know that Samsung had recently been to my home to replace a failing light tunnel and a bad board was noted. The tech took it a step further and said my Color Wheel was failing too. At this juncture, Ms. Samsung did an abrupt turn about and offered to extend the warrantee on my HLR5667W to December " and offered a "Free in home warrantee repair" to fix it. They are coming Friday to replace the Digital Board, The Color Wheel and yes the bulb! ALL free of any charges to me. Might as well, since the warrantee has come to life after lying dormant for nearly 4 years I feel a free and newer bulb is not too much to ask. Anyway, whoever started the NJAG Consumer Affairs thing up above....Thank you! I have been living with this worthless TV for too many years. Though I was one of the first to report in to them regarding light tunnel issues back in early '06 they never contacted me back once a class action was determined. I found out through this thread, recently! Many people have been helped here but I strongly encourage everyone to jump on the bandwagon and start in the NJAG Office of Consumer Affairs. I did exactly what I was told in the above post and even had someone from the NJAG contact me stating they needed some info....I forgot to tell them what exactly was wrong with the TV! Haha...Stupid me! They will help you and Samsung will comply. Those who do not know, Samsung is scheduled to sell 10 Million Galaxy Tablets by the holidays. In doing so, they take one third of the Apple iPad market away from Apple. They will do everything to restore public confidence right now and that includes fixing your Television. Thanks again! I am grateful! M. J. Moyer |
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New member Username: Chalk101Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-11 | Samsung Dlp television has started flickering any one know possible answers or do I get a new TV |
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New member Username: MdtanPost Number: 1 Registered: Oct-11 | My Samsung HLT6187SAX/XAA lost the red last week. I just replaced the red led and still no red . Any ideas please |
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New member Username: Sarah2003Post Number: 1 Registered: Oct-11 | We have a 6 yr old Samsung HL-p4663W. Symtoms: No picture, lamp light blinking Every 30 sec or we would hear a click like the ballast was firing up or something. We first replaced the lamp- no change in symtpoms. Someone told us given the clicking, it was probably the ballast, so we replaced it, no change Now, when we plug it in, the Lamp light blinks, it clicks like I mentioned. If I press the button to turn it on, all three lights blink. Any thoughts? |
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New member Username: Jstern09Chicago, IL Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-11 | My Samsung HL-R5678w has developed the problem below over the last few months... started out as a slight difference in brightness on one half of the screen and has progressed to the green and red "tailing" that is seen below. It happens with all inputs and sources (DVD, xbox, HD DVR from comcast) and the left side of the screen is flawless. Would appreciate any suggestions. I had the infamous shadow issue way back in 2007 and had the digital board replaced at that time; have also replaced the lamp twice (both times at about the three year mark). Thanks!  |
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