Archive through March 02, 2009
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 233 Registered: May-07 | DCS, Your problem seems to be the DMD board in my opinion. Again, just an opinion! Part number is BP96-01102A .. Samsung wants an arm and 2 legs for it. You might want to check D-M... They sell for normally $180-$200. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 234 Registered: May-07 | Louis Marchesani, Sounds like a colorwheel issue! If you did not hear a "whining or whirling" noise before the TV went out, i recommend buying the complete housing and color wheel together. At times the color wheel isn't actually bad, it's the sensor board on the colorwheel housing. If you had heard a whirling noise before this happened, I would recommend the bare wheel to save your $30.00.. But in this case go with the following: http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-Replacement-Color-Wheel-HLS-HLT-Series- p/samsung-cw-bp96-01579a-enc.htm It's a very common problem on your model TV that the color wheel sensor goes bad... I have had many cases with this issue, and people have changed the bare wheel with no luck. Again, If you did hear screetching or whining... I would recommend the bare, rare cases like this I recommend the wheel with complete housing. Also, before you buy one.. Open the TV and follow the instructions here: http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/samsung/bp96-01579a.php Do your due diligence to check to see if the color wheel or sensor show signs of wear. Make sure the timing mark (black sticker on the color wheel silver bearing) has not fallen off or been damaged. This can also cause your TV to turn off after a few seconds when it can't detect the colorwheel actually spining. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 235 Registered: May-07 | Dean Price, 90% chance the DMD board is failing. Part number is BP96-01106A Samsung wants $1048.00!!! Discount-Merchant wants $199.00!! This is amazing. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 236 Registered: May-07 | jim gale, Simple problem.. Color Wheel! Part number = BP96-0674A Link here for $69.99: http://www.discount-merchant.com/product-p/samsung_bp96-00674a_colorwheel.htm Make sure you select the correct color wheel.. This model is notorious for failing. Instructions can be found here: http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/guides.php Click on the color wheel guide. The procedure is all the same. It will take you 1-2 hours max, but the TV will be like new and you will save $450 service call. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 237 Registered: May-07 | mike, PartStore is great place to buy the color wheel as well.. A bit expensive, but they are a reliable source. I'm glad you nailed the problem.. The colorwheel is best removed. |
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New member Username: MsvPost Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | Ovadoggvo, I have a HLN567WX/XAA which I believe the DMD board is failing,(frozen,negative, black & white picture). ButI heard that changing that board is tricky for the untrained. Is that true? |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 238 Registered: May-07 | MSV, I don't think it's too difficult if you are handy with a screwdriver. If you can change the color wheel, you can change the dmd... Check FixYouDlp.com's guides and you should get a good idea on what you should expect. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 239 Registered: May-07 | Mike S, Hmm.. I'm wondering if it's an analog input board issue.. looks like this: http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 068965-samsung.htm Depends on the model. It's worth a try... I don't know what else could cause this issue. Let us know how it goes. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 240 Registered: May-07 | Scott, It's the small lamp cover door. It has a blue switch/trigger. Make sure it's functioning. Make sure the lamp is in place properly. Does the TV make a clicking noise when you hit the power button? Should sound like a relay clicking on, means that your ballast is working or not... or if it's getting the signal from the DMD to turn on. If you don't hear a click, it could be a power supply issue. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 241 Registered: May-07 | Zeth Lannigan, DMD Board... Check Discount-Merchant.com ... Only around $180-$200.. I don't know how they are making money selling a $600-$800 board for $200. Wheeeh... I think I got everybody! At least for now. I'll check back with you guys in a few days. Please don't private message me as I won't answer it. I try to keep everything here and in public so others can learn from our diagnosis and solutions! I appreciate your cooperation guys. I do not get paid for my time on here and I won't accept side jobs. This is my way of stimulating the economy. I guess it's my way of helping the Obama Administration! |
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New member Username: WdtiesiPost Number: 3 Registered: Jan-09 | sorry, I hope someone can help. hls-5088w. Brad wrote in december he is having same problem, but he uses a cable card. Neither of us has found a solution. The on screen displays, such as volume control and channel listings has disappeared. Ths model has the TVGuide, which has also disappeared. Do you think something has gotten bumped inside? These features do not work on the remote or on the tv. The info button does not work either. Also, the onscreen menu, that allows you to get to say the dvd player disappears from time to time. The tv is only 1.5 years old and we had an extended warrenty, but the company took the money and ran....so we won't be getting our tv fixed that way. Please help... |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 243 Registered: May-07 | Wendy Tiesi, Have you tried entering the service menu and reseting the TV to it's default settings? Follow these instructions to get into the service menu: http://fixyourdlp.com/blog/2007/02/15/resetting-your-samsung-dlp-lamp-hour-meter -counter/ Then in the same menu, there should be a factory reset. Try that and let me know what happens. |
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New member Username: Layne420Post Number: 2 Registered: Jan-09 | I have a HLS4266. Lamp went out. Replaced the lamp, it worked for about 30 seconds then got the flashing 3 lights. Talked to D-M and they said it was probably the ballast. Changed the ballast, nothing but same problem. Talked to D-M again, they said try the color wheel. Replaced that, still same problem. The tv tries to power on but there is no clicking from the ballast, only a beeping noise coming from the colorwheel housing or lamp housing. Any suggestions? I thought it might be a power issue but I dont know how to test to see if ballast is getting power. I've spent 400 bucks in parts and being that nothing has fixed it yet, I dont want to invest to much more money in it. Thanks |
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Bronze Member Username: MxxmikexxPost Number: 12 Registered: Sep-08 | im chatting with DM right now and they are telling me that they dont have the dmd boards in stock but samsung has them for $500 WTF!!!!!! |
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New member Username: Scott367Buffalo Grove, IL USA Post Number: 5 Registered: Feb-09 | ovadoggvo - thanks for the response, When I turn the power on I get the clicking noise, and the lamp turn on for about 1 second then blinks off, then turns on for about 3 seconds, then turns off with the two blinking LED's. I don't think that this is a color wheel issue, because I do hear clicking, and the lamp does come on, at least for a moment. Do you have any thoughts. Also how can I force the ballast to come on? I will have a multimeter here tonight to check for powers. |
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New member Username: WdtiesiPost Number: 4 Registered: Jan-09 | Ovadoggvo, I tried the reset and the channel that came up stays stuck on the screen. I still have no menu and the missing items are the tvguide for this model, the volume and the channels, plus nothing comes up on the info button. I am at a loss. I still have full picture and sound, but very intermittantly am getting a hissing sound when the tv powers up. Do you think I should change something? what part of the tv are the displays related to? Is something not lined up correctly? Thanks for the input. The standby temp light is always on. Wendy |
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New member Username: Mme1021West sacramento, Ca Usa Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | Ovadoggvo, ok this my issue i recieved this t.v. for free Hlp5063w .... i seemed to have the same problem as many others, I turn on the tv , the lamp light blinks for about 20 sec then shuts off then repeats process untill all lights in front begin to flash Oh and im getting sound while this all happening... i replaced the lamp (phillips).. as it looks after taking everything apart to get th the the color wheel it seems to be intact and as im pretty sure was replaced at some point because it has air bearings instead of the stock ball bearing and the jumper is no longer there.. but the color makes a grinding sound when spun at slow speeds but becomes silent when spun fast with my finger ? another note the lamp will not power up !! But when i look at the connections to the dmd it seem to be getting power because the green led light attached to dmd circuit board lights up .. I am hearing a clicking noise at start up , then again after the self restart.. So I checked if the color wheel is spinning but removing the lamps and ballast out of the tv but keeping the connection in place and the color wheel is not spinning at any point during the start up ... Iam thinking dmd but im hopping its not .. So what do you recomend Ballast Or DMD or does the color wheel seem faulty ? Thank you |
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New member Username: RboothPost Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | Hi, I have a 4 year old Samsung 46" DLP. Turned it on the other day and I now have white vertical lines about 1.5 inches apart running across the entire screen. The picture still displays - the white lines are on top of it. Is this a board or chip problem? Thanks |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 244 Registered: May-07 | Layne Holt, Did you change the bare color wheel or the colorwheel with the housing? There is a sensor board on the colorwheel housing that may be failing. That's weird.. You took all the right steps in the order that I would have taken. D-M seems to have given you the most logical problems in the right order. Explain the beeping sound to me. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 245 Registered: May-07 | mike b., That's odd... They have DMD boards on their website here: http://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=dmd+board I've bought 3 myself just in the last 2 weeks for customers who were otherwise screwed... I normally order online because the pictures help a lot! When you go into the order click the "Click here to view pictures of this part (if available)." It's a little tiny link under the photo that takes you to 5 high resolution images. It's actually very impressive, but hard to notice until you've been on their site about 20 times. |
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Bronze Member Username: MxxmikexxPost Number: 13 Registered: Sep-08 | ovadoggvo: I have a samsung hlr-5067w and the part number for the board according to the tv repair place that i brought it to is part number BP94-02084a , is this the part number for the ENTIRE metal assembly when all i really need is the board inside the metal assembly? |
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New member Username: Layne420Post Number: 3 Registered: Jan-09 | ovadoggvo I changed just the colorwheel. Guess I will have to try the housing as well. I guess the beeping would be described as when you touch a voltmeter to a live wire, just at a slower pace. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 246 Registered: May-07 | Richard Booth, This is a classic board problem in the HLN and HLR series Samsung DLPs.. DMD board is what you need. Again, Discount-Merchant is the best solution that I have found as of yet. Around $180-$200 and you're up and running again. If you really want to be safe, you can buy the whole light engine without the colorwheel and lamp for about $280.. Which is a steal as well. Otherwise Samsung wants $500+ for the DMD and 800+ for the LE. I've been chatting on live chat with the guys at DM after I heard mike b. was told that they dont' carry DMD's... They do carry DMD's and they say that they get new inventory every week, and if the parts I need are not in stock, they may be in stock the next week. I guess if they don't have what you need, we will just have to wait and see if they get it in. Good luck. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 247 Registered: May-07 | Maxwell Munoz-Elliott, My first guess on the triple-reboot problem would be your Color Wheel. The wheel may physically spin fine but it may not reach the required RPM and your TV will shut down. In my september post, there is a long description on how the DLP system works. Look there and review the process. My first guess would be to change the CW before we get into the whole DMD issue. |
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Bronze Member Username: MxxmikexxPost Number: 14 Registered: Sep-08 | OVADOGGVO: the part number i have is BP94-02084a, here is a picture of the 2 boards that make up that assembly. Is this the "DMD"? and are there any other part numbers that cross reference with BP94-02084a or is this the only part number i can replace it with?  |
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New member Username: Billat3800ftPost Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | ovadoggvo, Hi, I have a HL-R 4667W. The TV would not turn on after several attempts. The lamp would light (in the back) and I can hear it click (relay sound)and the screen looks lighter but no picture. After numerous attempts it would turn on. I unplugged the set and tried again with same results.I replaced the lamp (phillips)from D-M. The TV turned on and looked great. After 2 days it would not turn on and had the same symptoms. again after numerous attempts to turn it on, it finally came on and now I don't want to turn it off because it may not come on again. any idea what the problem is? Thanks, Bill |
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New member Username: Joec999Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | HLR5667WAX/XAA DLP Projection problems I could use some assistance with this one. This unit seems to have two different issues. The first issue: It powers up normally and displays normal picture and sound for several minutes or even several hours, then, the lamp shuts off and audio stays on for about 5 seconds after the lamp extinguishes, then the unit shuts off and the Timer, Lamp, and Standby/Temp lights all flash together continuously. Oddly, several times I have had the TV operate for hours on end while watching one channel all evening. At the time I would go to switch to a different channel it would then shut down and display the three blinking lights. As I have repeated this same action several times I think it's more than a coincidence. However, it will also shut down by itself when left on a channel with no interaction at all. I checked the supply voltage to the ballast and it holds steady at about 310VDC, even after the Arc lamp goes off. The ballast has a 5 pin signal connector and if I have my pin-outs right I read a steady 5 VDC on pin 1, a square wave @ approx 180Hz and 2.4Vpp on pin 2, a steady 5 VDC on pin 3, pin 4 is ground and pin 5 is 5 VDC at turn on and then drops low after the lamp fires. When the arc lamp goes out, the square wave on pin 2 drops out at the same time and goes to a DC voltage of about 1.5VDC. The voltages on pins 1 and 3 hold steady at 5VDC. I have replaced the ballast but that did not correct the problem. I inspected the lamp and it looks clean with no visible defects or clouding and appears to be sufficiently bright when lit (the lamp is the original lamp that came with the set when new). I reasoned that if the lamp would stay lit for several hours on occasion that it is probably not the lamp. (Please correct me if this is faulty reasoning) I listened to the color wheel and it spins up with no unusual sounds. However, I recently, moved this TV into my heated, yet cooler garage (about 50 deg F this time of year) to make room for another TV in my living room. I powered up this set in the garage and I noticed it then takes two start up cycles (color wheel spins up twice) to get the lamp to stay on. Being curious about this, I removed the color wheel assembly, lightly rotated the color wheel with one finger and it made a scraping noise, yet I don't hear anything unusual when it is running. I think this is the air bearing version (silver drum) so I'm not sure if this is normal or not. Now the second issue: Recently, the TV has intermittently displayed a scrambled picture while watching standard definition signals whether analog or digital. The picture has tightly spaced thin horizontal lines and you can see a faded picture in the background although it looks like multiple images. The HD signal looks normal except that there are faint colored blocks (roughly 1" square) scattered throughout the picture. The blocks may be faint at times then darker the next time I power up the TV. I was going to take pictures of the screen today and post them but it is displaying a normal picture again. Any advice appreciated, Thanks in advance. Joe |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 248 Registered: May-07 | Joseph Cih, You have done a fabulous job explaining and starting to diagnose your problem! Try checking Fan #2 when the TV shuts off, it is the fan that cools the lamp. It should still be running to cool the lamp, if not, that could be your problem. The lamp is overheating due to FAN 2 failing. Normally you will get a message on your TV set that says the fan is failing, however, in rare cases the sensor also fails with the fan. I assume that you have bought a new PHILIPS brand lamp from Partstore or Discount-Merchant? Make sure it's Philips and from an AUTHORIZED dealer or intermittent problems are likely to occur with Osram and/or 3rd party lamps. The cheap lamps that they sell on eBay are just that... CHEAP. They tend to be overstocks, old stock, old versions that failed engineering Quality Assurance (QA). Also, beware of fake or "refurbished" Philips lamps on the market. This is why I recommend the two dealers above. Discount-Merchant.com IS the biggest Philips UHP lamp distributor in the world. I have called Philips Lighting and confirmed. They would not be in this position if they were selling closeouts or used lamps as NEW, like on eBay. Partstore.com is a manufacturer direct drop shipper / distributor. They don't stock the parts themselves. They take the order and forward it to the manufacturer or distributor. If you order a Philips lamp from partstore, Discount-Merchant.com is the distributor that ships you the product in most cases. You just pay a little bit more due to the commision that PartStore collects. Many of these other Philips lamps dealers online are also customers of D-M and I know this because when I bought a lamp from another vendor, it had the MI Technologies, Inc. warranty card inside. MI Technologies, Inc. seems to be the corporation that handles Discount-Merchant.com or something like that. Maybe one of their divisions. Long story short, get it direct.... Make sure it works good or you may have intermittent problems. Not worth the $10-$20 that you will save buying from an unknown source or fly-by-night companies offering a 10 year warranty when they will not even last 6 months in the business. Now back to the next question.. The "scrambled picture" you are referring to, does it happen on the "Antenna" mode? Does it happen on the standard Video input? Does it happen on the "Component" input? If it happens in those inputs, it may be a bad Analog video board or a bad DMD board. In a case like this, diagnoses would be a bit difficult... I would recommend this little piece of gold that I found for you: http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 077722-samsung.htm It's the complete light engine components minus the color wheel that you already have. At $199, I can't see you miss. The fan controller sensor is also there. I would also recommend this: http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 077718-samsung.htm For $20 more you get the cooling fan I was referring to. NOW... If you don't get the lines / scrambled vision in any of those inputs other than the ANTENNA, your RF input may be bad (it does fail) - Problem #1 If above is true Problem #2 (the shutting off problem) may be the Power Supply or Color Wheel. The reason I say Color Wheel is because when the set heats up, the wheel may not spin at the adequate speed and the TV will shut off. I say power supply because there is a variation in power requirement from the main components of the Tv when you change the channel or input. I read above in a but more detail where you stated that the lamp is the original that came with the set.... A big no-no... You should not even consider diagnosing your TV and even opening it without buying a new lamp! The lamp you can sell in worse case scenario if it doesn't fix the problem and you decide to trash the Tv... Just keep your proof of purchase. If you decide to pay the $200 for the light engine to fix the set (if it gets that far), you will need another lamp in the life of that light engine! So you can use a new lamp anyways... My first step would be a new lamp. I just posted this information and diag steps for others to see and benefit from. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 249 Registered: May-07 | mike b., Look what i found: http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 077660-samsung.htm It's the complete light engine! I would pick that up ASAP. When I searched for that 2 days ago, it wasn't there. They must have just updated their products. That should fix your problem in breeze. Make sure the model listed matches yours. The W and WX and WA/XAA do not make a difference! Those are just versions made at different times for different markets by Samsung. I don't see the "bare DMD board", but for $60 more you get EVERYTHING! What a deal. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 250 Registered: May-07 | Bill Weldon, My first guess is WEAK ballast. The lamp that D-M sold you is indeed new. The ballast may be weakened due to normal wear and tear. A new lamp requires more Umph to turn on than a older lamp that has many hours on it. At times, some people may receive a new lamp in the mail and put it in and it doesn't work even though their old lamp worked and just had low luminosity; this is the sings of a weak ballast. If you turn your TV on/off many times a day, you will weaken your ballast and may blow your lamp faster. For this reason Bars show up to 10,000 hours on their lamp. The leave the TV on for hours an DLP's are meant to run that way. They are like cars and their spark and starter system. If you are leaving the room for 5 minutes, don't turn off your TV. It takes a lot out of your ballast and lamp to turn back on, plus it's bad for the lamp to be turned on and off without the proper cool-down time. Also after time the capacitors on the ballast seem to rott, which cause the ballast to start failing intermittently. Here is a good link to great information: http://www.fixyourdlp.com/blog/2007/04/07/how-to-extend-the-life-of-your-dlp-lco s-sxrd-hd-ila-or-lcd-tv-lamp-intuitive-guide/ I keep finding great things online that can help everyone. This FixYourDLP.com website is also a charm. If I were you I'd open the TV and check to make sure the Colorwheel is spinning freely on it's bearing, then if YES, a new ballast should solve the problem. Guys, I'm not physically there to inspect your TV's so I only give you advice based on the information you provide. The more information, the better I can understand the situation. I say this because I don't want to be blamed for any mis-diagnosis. It hasn't happened much but 1-I'm not physically next to your TV and 2-I'm not 100% right all the time. I am human and I do make mistakes. Just wanted to get that out of the way! Many people visit this forum and without posting walk away with a ton of good information and even a problem to their solution. I realize this and for this reason I keep all of my ideas on these posts along with my personal experience with these TV sets. |
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Bronze Member Username: MxxmikexxPost Number: 15 Registered: Sep-08 | I'm confused, when i originally brought the set into the local sammy repair dept. they said i need the digital board, part # bp94-02084a (im looking at the invoice right now) The big metal box with the 2 boards that i have pictured is what the guy told me i needed, and it has a sticker with the part number on it. So the DMD board that your talking about is mounted under the light engine? So which part do i need?!?!?!? what your talking about doesnt seem to be the same thing sammy repair told me i need <confused...... |
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New member Username: DeanpPost Number: 2 Registered: Feb-09 | ovadoggvo I have the same problem as Mike B, I believe your diagnosis for my HLR5688W is definitly dmd board part# BP96-01106A, but I have called, live chatted, and tried to find it online with the last link you provided for DM, and had no luck, I am wondering if they have a light engine assy minus color wheel and bulb like they did for mike b the #I come up with is BP96-01036A ? |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 251 Registered: May-07 | mike b., The DMD board (Also known as Digital Board) is the small board with the metal around it. It has the DLP chip with a heatsink mounted on it. Looks like this: http://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=dmd+board&Search.x=0&S earch.y=0 I just recommended the complete light engine because for $80 more you get the light tunnel/optical block, the dmd board, and the analog board. You actually get a color wheel too! You can basically keep your TV running for a long long time for $80 more worth of spare parts that are worth hundreds from Samsung. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 252 Registered: May-07 | Dean Price, I don't see your DMD board on D-M, however, you may want to keep checking every few weeks. Again, the light engine is a better deal if you have a chance to pick it up. Also, remember... mikes part was not available on D-M one day and it was another! So this means they are getting new parts in and definitely updating the inventory online. I would keep checking and snatch it up as soon as it shows up. I can assure you that not too many servicers and service centers know about these guys selling these parts as they have been quietly doing so without advertisement. I would try to snatch it up as soon as you see it online. Again, these parts are in high demand and they will be in higher demand as time goes by and more people find out about their website. I've been waiting for someone that sells these parts (new, used, refurbished, or even scrap!) for 1-2 years now and this place is a tremendous step. I praise these guys for understanding the demand and providing these parts to the public at such astonishing low prices. I hope they can keep their prices reasonable as demand increases as more people find out about this. |
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New member Username: Elpanda23Post Number: 2 Registered: Jan-09 | Posted on Sunday, January 18, 2009 - 02:27 am: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'VE BEEN LOOKING AT THIS PAGE BECAUSE I HAVE BEEN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MY 3 AND A HALF YEAR OLD DLP HL-R5067W T.V. THE FIRST TIME I HAD A PROBLEM WITH MY T.V. WAS YESTERDAY IT LOOKED EXACTLY LIKE THE PICTURE POSTED BY BRAD ON MARCH 27, 2008 AND THEN TODAY WHEN I TRIED TO TURN ON THE T.V. THE IMAGE AND SOUND WOULDN'T COME ON (THE SCREEN IS BLACK) BUT THE FAN AND LAMP WERE ON BUT YOU CAN'T TURN IT OFF WITH THE REMOTE OR WHEN YOU PUSH THE BUTTON THEN AFTER A LITTLE WHILE LIKE A MINUTE IT TURNS OFF BY ITSELF. I HAVE BEEN LOOKING THAT OVADOGGVO HAS BEEN HELPING A LOT OF PEOPLE CAN YOU HELP ME?? |
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New member Username: Ds5775Post Number: 5 Registered: Feb-08 | I have a samsung 50 ich dlp I replaced the bulb everything worked fine about 6 months later I will be watching it and it will just go all green with lines in it still has sound, I unplug it and it comes back on for a few hours have been doing this for a couple months now anyone know what I need to replace to fix it. Also I have a 37 inch funai lcd and after about 6 months it no turns on and a red line goes across the top of the screen any ideas on that also, Any help i would appreaciate! Thanks Drew |
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Bronze Member Username: MxxmikexxPost Number: 16 Registered: Sep-08 | ovadoggvo: So did my local sammy repair place give me the totally wrong part number then or what? because what they told me, isnt even remotely close to the dmd board attached to the light engine assembly like you have pictured. They were telling me i needed that big metal box where all the a/v inputs plug into. bp94-02084a. which is located to the left of the light engine assembly. |
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Bronze Member Username: MxxmikexxPost Number: 17 Registered: Sep-08 | just to recap: here was my original problem. "i have a 50" hl-r5067w that will no longer turn on. lamp light flashes once, then temp light, then back to the lamp light flashing continuously. the bulb in the back is on. tv will then shut off after about 1 minute. this whole time a picture will never come up. this was a intermittent problem but now has finally broke. 5 days now and it wont turn on. so far ive checked the switch on the back door for the lamp, that ohmed out good. checked the thermostat for the bulb that ohmed out good. checked that the color wheel is actually spinning that seems good. bulb is on, and fans are working. any suggestions? so far ive researched that it could be the ballast, color wheel may be bad even tho it spins, or it could be the dmd board" I have also visually inspected the color wheel to make sure the black timing mark is still on there undamaged. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 254 Registered: May-07 | mike b., The board you are referring to is available here: http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1077677-samsung.htm however, the part number you are giving me is for a 56" DLP tv. Is this an authorized samsung servicer? If they are giving you part numbers for 56" TV when your tv is a 50", they may not know what they are talking about. The part number you gave me is here: http://www.samsungparts.com/search/search.asp and the price is $462 ... but it's for a 56" .. The above part from DM is for a 50" and it's only $24.99 !! .. If they told you that the problem resides there, for $25 i would purchase that board first. Then if it doesn't work, resort to the light engine I linked to you above. In this case, you save $420 buying the part from D-M... Which is a whole lot of money. But your servicer needs to get his part numbers straight. Also, the 2nd half of the assembly you show in your pictures is the Misc. Analog board which is available here: http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1077675-samsung.htm So, step 1 - Take your local repair shops advice and get the part that they recommend. It's only $25 ... But make sure you are getting the right parts! The parts from DM will not come with the aluminum around it for good reason. They have high resolution images of the board so you can identify and match it to what you currently have in your TV set. Install it and let us know what happens. Step 2 - If step 1 doesn't fix your problem, buy the light engine assembly which has the DMD Board built in. ... You may come out like a bandit with a $59 repair, or it may cost you $320 or so in the end. |
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Bronze Member Username: MxxmikexxPost Number: 18 Registered: Sep-08 | Yes This place was an authorized Samsung Repair Center. The part number they said i needed is stickered on the side of the big metal "L" shaped box. On the invoice they have it labeled as the "digital board" I just googled the part #bp94-02084a and I also found it labeled as the digital PCB assembly. The board you linked above which is $59, is the board that mounts above the "L" shaped bp94-02084a. So I guess my main question is..... From what this repair center is telling me i need, do my problems seem related to a defective to this board? or do my problems sound more like its a problem with the DMD board attached to the light engine assembly? I think this guy at the repair center was confused, because he kept telling me the big metal "L" box (bp94-02084a) was the DMD board. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 255 Registered: May-07 | mike, The problem is that your symptoms are all over the place. I am not physically able to see your TV set to give you a full blown recommendation. What I do recommend is that you go with the part that your Authorized Repair Center gave you. Again, what he said to you and the part numbers he gave you along with the descriptions don't match. That is where I begin to question his competence and knowledge with these TV sets. The "L" board to me is the Analog board. I would guess DMD Board but that is a bigger expense.. and i do recommend the complete light engine in this case for many reasons. 1. Your light tunnel is notorious for collapsing and 2. You can always use a spare color wheel since you have never replaced it. But again, go with the servicers recommendation over mine. |
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New member Username: NstowfisPost Number: 2 Registered: Feb-09 | I posted last week about needing to replace the color wheel on my HLP6163WX/XAA. I replaced it yesterday and I was right - that was definitely the problem, or at least part of it! The old color wheel had shattered... took me awhile to clean out all of the bits with a dustbuster but I'm pretty sure I got them all. Now I have a different problem. I no longer get the loud buzzing noise and the instant-on "3 lights of doom" BUT... When I turn the set on, I hear a click and a fan noise, I get nothing on the screen, the "Lamp" light on the power button blinks a few times, then I get both the "Lamp" and "Standby/Temp" lights blinking for a few seconds, and finally the dreaded 3 lights all blinking. Sounds similar to Maxwell Munoz-Elliot's problem above. I'm going to open it up again tonight to double-check that I reconnected all cables securely - I didn't have the time or the energy to go in again yesterday after changing the color wheel. I'm really hoping I don't have to replace anything else, like the DMD board. I've seen a few posts with links to that on the DM site but I haven't seen any for my model... Any ideas/suggestions/helpful hints?? Thanks in advance! |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 256 Registered: May-07 | elpanda23, My guess would be the DMD board. I don't see it on Discount-Merchant as a bare board but luckily I see the light engine here: http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 077683-samsung.htm That comes with the DMD board... I think you and mike may be fighting over the same light engine unless they have 2 in stock. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 257 Registered: May-07 | Nick Stowfis, Double check both ends of the cable going out from the sensor of the color wheel. Let us know what happens. Make sure you are putting everything back and closing the lamp cover door and sensors are all in tact. |
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New member Username: Kc2cagCentennial, CO Post Number: 3 Registered: Feb-09 | To Nick Stowfis, I'm still awaiting the Color Wheel I orderd from Parts Source almost two weeks ago, but my original one had also shattered. It was quite a job to try to get all the little pieces and glass dust out of there, and I'm wondering if (when the color wheel comes in) that minor pieces of debris might cause additional problems in the light tunnel, etc. Tom K |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 258 Registered: May-07 | Drew Simmons, Your DLP: What kind of lamp did you buy? Does it get the green lines on all inputs or just a particular one? Can you try pluging your cable box or your tuner into a different input and tell us if it has the same issue. Also, try pluging a laptop/pc in for a while and see if you get the same problem. My guess would be the Analog or Digital board, I'm trying to narrow it down to see which one is failing... If it fails on all inputs, it may be the DMD board. Don't tell me you have a HLR5067W! Your Funai: My first guess would be the main digital board or aux digital board. I would need more information on this and maybe some pictures and model number. The LCD's have 2 main boards.. 1 is the big main board that has all the inputs, and the second is the auxilary digital board that connects to the LCD panel and sends the information to the actual panel. |
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New member Username: Ds5775Post Number: 6 Registered: Feb-08 | The model # is HLR5067WAX/XAA... The lamp I got from Dir. Merch. is a Phillips replacement bulb and is the one that they said goes with this model it works fine like I said after about 4-6 hours the screen turns green with kinnda black lines I unplug it plug it back in and works fine. i just turned it on so I will have to wait for it to turn green to try other in and outputs. I will have to get the funai out of storage and get the model # thanks for any help!!!! |
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Bronze Member Username: MxxmikexxPost Number: 19 Registered: Sep-08 |   This is a picture of what he pointed out to is the "DMD" board. the close up of the sticker is the part number bp94-02084a, which is the same number they have written on the receipt. I would hate to spend the money on this board if the guy is simply confused and doesnt know what the hell he's talking about. If this board is bad, can it cause the same syptoms that im having with the TV? Or is it more likely the symptoms im having are from a bad DMD board? |
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New member Username: NstowfisPost Number: 3 Registered: Feb-09 | Tom Kocialski - Yeah, I'm also a bit nervous about all of those glass particles that were floating around in there. I'm hoping that's not the problem, though. FYI, I had originally ordered my color wheel from PartStore.com but ended up canceling after finding out the part was back-ordered indefinitely. I got the same part from NeedleGuy.com: http://www.needleguy.com/product_info.php?products_id=774 It cost $30 more but I ordered it Wednesday afternoon, it shipped on Thursday ($11 Priority Mail) and I had it on Saturday. Not sure if it matches your model but if not, maybe they have one that does. Says they still have 4 in stock. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 259 Registered: May-07 | Mike, He obviously didn't know what he is talking about. The board you are showing there is the following: http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 077677-samsung.htm It is the DIGITAL INPUT BOARD (Aka, aux digital board). NOT the Digital Micromirrored Device (DMD) board. DMD board refers to the board that the DMD chip sits on. I would pick it up first for $25 to see if his diagnosis was correct. You can later go to him and tell him that you bought the board he requested and it didn't solve your problem. My money is on the DMD board, but again, I may be wrong. He is the authorized samsung servicer that actually opened your TV set. |
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New member Username: NstowfisPost Number: 4 Registered: Feb-09 | Thanks ovadoggvo. The one thing I did try last night was opening up the lamp cover, removing and reinserting the lamp housing. Unfortunately that didn't help. My next thought was the temp sensor cable that connects to the top of the color wheel housing, like you said. That will be the first thing I check tonight, and I'll make sure to check both ends of it. I'll let you know how I make out tomorrow. Thanks again! |
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New member Username: Ds5775Post Number: 7 Registered: Feb-08 | Travis when you say id the menu's look ok what do you mean by that I click on my menu button and it all come's up fine and lets me adjust whatever I want. |
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New member Username: Root6t6Dallas, TX Post Number: 4 Registered: Feb-09 | There seems to be ALOT of confusion with these Samsung HLR**** DLP TVs as to what is the DMD board and what is the Digital Board. I'm not a TV Tech but I hope this helps clear up some of the confusion. The DMD board is in the middle of the set (from the back),incased in a metal cage, is part of the light engine, has a 60mm square fan attached to an irregular heatsink on it and is what the actual digital mirror chip is soldered to. The Digital board is on the left encased in a metal cage that is "L" shaped and has the analog board with all the input connectors laying on top of it. The are NOT one and the same in these HLR units. Many of the problems with picture freezing/sound continuing/reseting/flashing/green screen is due to the digital board, not the DMD board. If your menus look fine then your color wheel and your DMD board are ok. Probably a Digital or Analog board is to blame. Which is good news as they are alot easier to come by and alot cheaper than the actual DMD boards or entire light engine. Hope this helps. |
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New member Username: Root6t6Dallas, TX Post Number: 5 Registered: Feb-09 | Yes, that's what I mean. If the color wheel or DMD were malfunctioning then no projection to the screen would be good. The menus are just like any other video sent to the dmd which just transfers the light from the lamp in a cirtain way through the color wheel to the projection screen. The fact that the menus look pristine means that the dmd and the color wheel are working correctly. |
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New member Username: LesterdPost Number: 5 Registered: Jul-08 | Hi, I posted this issue a couple of times before. I just read the 'tutorial' on how these TVs work by Ovadoggvo (thanks!) and my guess is that the DMD needs to be replaced. Here's my original problem description: Posted on Sunday, January 18, 2009 - 02:14 pm: Edit Post Well, since my last post way back in July 2008, the TV has been sitting in my living room. A techy friend came over just before Christmas and I wanted to show him what the symptoms were, plugged in the set and IT WAS WORKING! I was amazed. It stayed working all through the Holidays, and then, one morning about a week ago, it stopped again...same thing, when you plug in the set the Lamp light flashes continuously, the picture is frozen and pixelated, the sound is on, but none of the buttons respond to any action and the remote doesn't work. Does anyone know what this might be? I'd be willing to replace a part (or 2) if someone has successfully fixed this kind of problem, but not prepared to sink good money into a black hole. cheers, --Lester |
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New member Username: Ds5775Post Number: 8 Registered: Feb-08 | Let me retype that Travis I click on my menu and go through it all and I can adjust anything I need to. As I stated before my Samsung 50 dlp HLR5067W will turn green after being on for a while I replaced the bulb with a Phillips Bulb from Dir. Merch. after the bulb went out and 6 months later I have the green problem. I am waiting for it to turn green so that I can check the other inputs but it seems to not want to turn green right now..lol.. |
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New member Username: Root6t6Dallas, TX Post Number: 6 Registered: Feb-09 | Lester, I would suspect the digital board. I believe it is the board that takes the remote commands. Also your symtoms are exactly what mine are with my HLR6167WAX/XAA. |
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New member Username: Root6t6Dallas, TX Post Number: 7 Registered: Feb-09 | Drew, just to clarify, when the screen is green and pixelated the menu comes up perfect with the green in the background? To me this means that the DMD and color wheel are doing their job and its what is feeding the DMD board that is failing, ie the Digital or Analog board. And I hear alot more about failed Digital boards than analog boards. I would start there. |
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New member Username: Ds5775Post Number: 9 Registered: Feb-08 | Travis I am sorry I misunderstood. The menu works fine when its not green I am still waiting for it to turn green and will check the menu while its green along with the other inputs. |
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New member Username: LesterdPost Number: 6 Registered: Jul-08 | Thanks Travis. Just to be clear, is the DB distinct from the DMD? If I'm looking to order a replacement part, is this something you think I could replace myself (I have some experience with electronics from fiddling around with PCs...replacing memory, disk drives, video cards, etc, but no real hard stuff). cheers, --Lester |
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New member Username: Root6t6Dallas, TX Post Number: 8 Registered: Feb-09 | Yes, the Digital board is completely seperate connected to the DMD board by a short DVI cable. It is quite easy to replace as all the connectors are unique. The digital board is in a metal enclosure. You can either buy the assembly with the enclosure already there or just the board assy and put in back in your own enclosure. make sure to study the enclosure carefully when you open it as there are several screws and nuts to remove to split it open. Most of the connections are to the actual analog board that is mounted to a cage that the enclosure slides into. there are only 3 flat cables between the analog board and the digital board. Sometimes they are "glued" in place with a sticky putty but careful removal of the putty with an exacto knife will allow you to remove the connectors by squeezing the tabs. I can do it all in about 20 minutes now LOL. |
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New member Username: LesterdPost Number: 7 Registered: Jul-08 | Travis: thanks again. I think I'll go ahead and order a DB and try to install myself...but allot considerably longer than 20 mins to install it :-). cheers, --Lester PS: this forum is great! |
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New member Username: SgoconnorPost Number: 4 Registered: Jan-09 | Hello, I'm having an issue with a Samsung HLR5067w 50" DLP. When I turn it on I don't get the startup chime anymore and the LAMP LED flashes for about 1 minute with no picture. The LAMP light stops flashing after about two minutes and then the red "Stand By/Temp" LED stays solid (as if the unit was shut off). Again no chime if I try to shut it off. I don't think its the bulb because I can see the backlight off the screen and the light from behind the unit. None of the remote controls respond, such as menu, source, etc. nothing comes on the screen. when I press them on the remote the TIMER LED lights for a second and goes away. Any ideas? |
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New member Username: Ds5775Post Number: 10 Registered: Feb-08 | It seems to me after reading all these post's and many many more on other threads and sites that we are all having generally the same problems with our Samsung DLP TV's, is anyone on here a Laywer or does anyone know how to go about starting a class action lawsuit. There are just to many of the same problem's for Samsung to not be at fault with there product or components they put inside these DLP TV's.. Just an Idea?? |
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New member Username: LesterdPost Number: 8 Registered: Jul-08 | Does anyone know how I can find out which part I need for my HL-R5067W? I think I need to replace the Digital Board (not the DMD) but I'm not completely sure...just wanted to see how much they run. I looked on Discount-Merchant.com, but couldn't find anything there. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 260 Registered: May-07 | Travis, Thank you for clarifying the DMD and Digital Board confusion for everyone here. I often assume that everyone understands what i'm talking about just because I deal with these TVs on a daily basis. The DMD Board is responsible for the final video output to the screen. If you are experiencing lines and intermittent issues, or a black or half black screen, most of the time the DMD Board is the source of the problem. The DMD board is where the DMD Chip (Digital Micromirrored Device) and the DLP Chip (Digital Light Processing) and samsung memory chip are located. You will also see the Silicone Imaging chip i believe on there as well. The digital board is where the DNIe chip (Digital Natural Image engine) is located. The DNIe carries a series of four algorithms that process and modify the signal on it's way to the DMD Board. The digital board does fail as well. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 261 Registered: May-07 | Lester, Look here: http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 077704-samsung.htm The price of the light engine is 1/2 the price of what you would pay for the DMD board from Samsung. The light engine has the DMD board on it! $259 is a great price! |
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New member Username: Root6t6Dallas, TX Post Number: 9 Registered: Feb-09 | Thank you ovadoggvo, I have been having the freezing with sound/repeating ever minute or so problem with my HL-R6167WAX/XAA and I've been researching all the forums for weeks and kept hearing the DMD and Digital board being used interchangably as the same thing. It really confused me and therefore took me quite a while and actually taking my set apart to see what was actually in there. Tell me if I'm wrong here but if the Menus are desplaying perfectly without flashing or lines while the rest of the screen is green and pixelated then the DMD board has to be ok and its got to be either the digital or analog board right? I work in the entertainment lighting industry and am familiar with TI's DMD chip and how it basically works and the optics and color wheel that are required to project the image to the screen. TI worked on this chip for 20 years to get it where it was viable for use in these TVs but it is a VERY complex device and the fact that they fail is no surprise. Thank you for being such a resource to this forum. I wish I'd have found it sooner. |
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Bronze Member Username: MxxmikexxPost Number: 20 Registered: Sep-08 | Ovadoggvo: the part number on that digital board that DM has ends in an "A" my board that i am holding in my hand, ends in a "B" Will this make a difference? I can't find any differences in the boards by visually comparing the pictures on D-M's site with the board in my hand. |
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Bronze Member Username: Ds5775Post Number: 11 Registered: Feb-08 | Ovadoggvo and Travis, I have the Samsung HLR5067W DLP. It finally went green and I tried what I think you meant for me to do.From my cable box I used rca cords to the av1-2-3 and it stayed green no change, Travis you had asked about the menu and yes it works while its green, I took a pic so you can see what my tv looks like. In the back there are only 2 rf inputs one says cable and the other says air so the rca jacks is all I could think of to try. Let me know what else I should try. Thanks Guys for all your help |
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New member Username: LesterdPost Number: 9 Registered: Jul-08 | Ovadoggvo: Thanks for your help, again. Certainly a good price compared to list. Just wondering, if I get this part and it doesn't fix the TV, I would probably like to try to re-sell it (at a discount) to someone...do you think there'd be a potential buyer, so I could recouperate some of the cost? At that point, I'd probably just move on and not bother trying to fix it. |
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New member Username: Root6t6Dallas, TX Post Number: 10 Registered: Feb-09 | I first have to say again that I am not a tech or an electrical engineer and I'm going on just plain ol logic and supposition here so Ovadoggvo PLEASE jump in to correct me at any time, but since I see that the menu is clear, I would assume that the DMD board and color wheel are good. The only signals that seem to go straight to the digital board are the RF coax inputs and the HDMI. If inputs to those provide a good picture then the Digital board is probably ok. So it would only be the analog inputs (RCA Component Svideo) that were bad which would lead me to think that the analog board is to blame. However The digital board could still be bad as it takes the signals from the analog board and processes them for input to the DMD board. In my readings of these forums I see alot more digital board failures than analog board failures so odds are its your digital board followed by the analog board. Make sense? |
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Bronze Member Username: Ds5775Post Number: 12 Registered: Feb-08 | Travis I appreiate any help I can get!! If thats the case, its not as bad as if the DMD was bad???? I will look on Dir. Merch. and see if they have those and how much they are. Also are these boards hard to install? Thanks again for all your Help!!! Also if its too much Tiger Direct just sent me an e-mail private sale New Sony Z series 120mzh 46inch LCD for 999$ or bundle and get a Blu-Ray and HDMI cable for 1199$ |
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New member Username: NstowfisPost Number: 5 Registered: Feb-09 | ovadoggvo and Tom Kocialski: I got my new color wheel to work! Luckily it looks like the shrapnel from the old, shattered color wheel did not damage anything else. What I had done wrong the first time is, when inserting the copper-colored ribbon cable from the color wheel into the slot on the DMD board, I put it in the wrong way (oops). It's easy to do since it fits either way; in fact I had to twist the cable a bit to get it to go in the right way. Should've paid closer attention to which way the thing was facing when I took the old one out! And of course, the little silver tabs on the ribbon cable need to make contact with the little silver tabs in the connection socket... seems obvious now. Hey, I was pretty tired the first time! So Tom, make sure to plug that cable in the same way as the one you take out, and don't worry too much about the broken glass; if you clean it out thoroughly you should be fine. ovadoggvo, thanks for the advice and thanks for being such a great help to everyone on this forum! |
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New member Username: Kc2cagCentennial, CO Post Number: 4 Registered: Feb-09 | Thanks, Nick, for the feedback on the color wheel shrapnel. I'm still awaiting my color wheel / housing from PartStore, allegedly to be shipped in early March. I'm not only patient, but I'm thrifty. I also photographed my set as I was dismantling it to get at the color wheel, and hopefully I have enough resolution to figure out the right way to reinstall the ribbon cable :} Tom K |
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New member Username: Kc2cagCentennial, CO Post Number: 5 Registered: Feb-09 | Regarding the shrapnel and shards of glass from the color wheel "explosion," I used the following tools in succession to remove the pieces: a pair of tweezers, an artist's brush, and some duct tape stuck to the end of the tweezers to grab the finest particles. Tom K |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 262 Registered: May-07 | Mike B., The ending letter on the board signifies different revisions or OEM installs. For example: BP96-00224C is a Samsung lamp which originally came with Samsung HLN507WX BP96-00224D is a Samsung lamp wich originally came with Samsung HLN5067WX These two lamps are interchangeable... They were just stamped in order to know which TV set they originally shipped with. Now Samsung has BP96-00224C, BP96-00224E, F, G, H, etc.. These are are origianlly installed in different models and/or date codes of the same or similar TVs that use the same ballast. Then they release a part called BP96-00224J that is the replacement part that covers all the models C-F. I know i'm confusing you guys, but in the end... The last digit does not matter in this case and you should have no problems. It may have been manufactured on a different date than the one in your TV or it may have initally been installed in a differnet version or region of the same model TV. You should have no problems with it. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 263 Registered: May-07 | Travis R., If your menu is working properly it may be that the DNIe chip is failing. Other problems can arrise from the Silicone Imaging chip on the DMD board that may cause the same effect. In this case, if you are not experiencing black outs or controlability issues, you may be able to get away with the Digital Board. If that doesn't solve the problem, you may have to get the DMD board. But yes, your logic seems correct. Keep in mind, the menu system is just a "layover" and requires no decoding and/or recoding by any of the digital imaging processors. This is why it makes it a bit difficult to diagnose. This is why I don't tell you that your DMD CHIP is bad, rather the DMD board. DMD Chip controls the final output (again.. blackouts, half black screens (not to be confused with "dark side of screen") and lines through the screen are normally the DMD Chip on the DMD board that fails or other components that communicate with the DMD chip. D-M's price on the Digital Board is sooo cheap and so is everythign else that it shines a new light on these TV sets! Specially in this economy... You won't believe how many customers we had to turn down 2 months ago compared to this month that D-M is offering these rare and hard to find parts. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 264 Registered: May-07 | Drew Simmons, The color issue without the distortion is indeed not a DMD board in most cases. I would open up the set and check the COLOR WHEEL. The color wheel is repsonsible for the oringal color production. Make sure it is spining properly and that the color particles have not fell off. In few cases, the color wheel falls apart 1 color at a time without making noise or damaging anything else. It may be a simple problem. BEFORE all of this, do your due diligence to see if in the component input by pluging in 2 of the three colors to see if 1 of the colors does not react. Let us know what you find by testing the inputs and by looking at the color wheel. By your first post I noticed that you said something about little black lines, it may be DMD Board issue if that is still the case. Also, if your symptoms are similar to Travis's you may want to see if the digital board fixes his problem and start there. From my perosnal experience, on the 5067W the DMD board is a big problem that seems to start to fail after about 4 years. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 265 Registered: May-07 | Nick Stowfis, I'm glad I could help you get your TV back up and running. I'm glad my "double check the cables" idea worked out. It happens often that we are eager to blame something else within the TV set due to the lack of confidence in our diagnosis or our handy work! I'm glad I can help everyone out... Unfortunately I'm definately not helping the servicers out there... But hey, we can't all win right? |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 266 Registered: May-07 | Tom Kocialski, You did a fine job cleaning out the particles. I'm sure just like everyone else that visits this forum and walks away with a working TV at little cost of repair. BEST OF ALL: The satisfaction of having made a technician level repair in your own home. That's the best part of all of this. Everyone walks away a technician with experience in repairing their own TV. |
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Bronze Member Username: MxxmikexxPost Number: 21 Registered: Sep-08 | Well everyone, wish me luck. I ordered the complete light engine assembly from D-M with the dmd and color wheel, and I also ordered the digital pcb board while they had it in stock just to have everything. I can't stand looking at this broken Samsung sitting in my office anymore! If this doesn't fix it I am selling all of the boards and the guts on the inside, and then... MARK MY WORDS, I am taking the shell, and use my friends industrial wood chipper machine from his landscape business and shredding this thing, boxing up all the little pieces and sending it back to samsung so they can dispose of THEIR garbage that they made! im going to take a video of this and send it with the box of garbage along with a letter so Samsung will know what i think of their product, then I will post it on the WEB and maybe I can make back a few bucks. lol |
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Bronze Member Username: Ds5775Post Number: 13 Registered: Feb-08 | Ovadoggvo, Thanks for all your help!! I am sending a pic again of what my TV does when it turns green. I am not sure I understand what you mean by the component input pluging in 2 of 3 colors plug in what my rca jacks or inside is there colors on the component board, as I said I tried yesterday from my cable box to the av1-2-3 and it stayed green. I will open it up and look around at te color wheel and try as you said. Thanks Again for all your help!! Those line's on my TV are black. |
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Bronze Member Username: Root6t6Dallas, TX Post Number: 11 Registered: Feb-09 | Ovadoggvo, Maybe you can answer this... I bought a used Digital board from a guy on ebay for a decent price for my HLR6167WAX/XAA (Before I knew about DM and their amazing prices!) Anyway, I hooked it up and it seemed to cure the flashing and freezing, but the TV would not recognize any of the inputs, RCA, SVideo, Component, even HDMI. It's like it wouldn't communicate with the other parts. I had all the cables right. I put my old digital board back in and everything works, but of course the freezing was back. Put the new one back in and no inputs. Back to the old and inputs work. Is there something you have to reset or change when you install the digital board to make it play with the other boards? Menus work fine, just wouldn't recognize any signal inputs. Also the Lamp on/off Beep would not work even when I turned it on in the menus. The guy swears the board was fine, but it had no p/n label on it like my original one did. Thanks, |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 267 Registered: May-07 | Travis R., Did you try doing a reset in the service menu? Mute + 1 + 8 + 2 + Power when the tv is off to turn it on. Then look at the settings there. You may have to do a factory reset in order for the boards to sync up. This is not normal and factory reset should not be necessary in a normal scenario. I would assume the board is bad. Let us know what happens so we can all learn! |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 268 Registered: May-07 | Drew Simmons, Have you tried connecting a computer to the TV to see if you have the same results? Let us know. If no, then your ANALOG board may be bad. |
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New member Username: SuparokuLouisville, KY USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | Hello all, pretty close to wit's end here. I'm the original owner of a HLN467W manufactured Nov. 2003 which has worked fine for years. Two months ago, the picture froze into a kind of pixelated black and white negative image. Sound stayed on. I think it didn't respond to the remote and I had to unplug it to shutdown. It did this a couple of times, and since the color wheel was really starting to whine - I replaced it hoping that it might fix the other problem too. I also replaced the original lamp - with my spare Offical Samsung(Philips) lamp. Things were great for a few hours of viewing and then the picture froze with the b/w pixel negative image again. Now when I switch the TV on, I hear a single click, and then the "startup tones" but the lamp light just blinks. It then appears to recycle itself without the "tones", then after blinking the lamp light for awhile, it plays the "power off tones" and flashes all three lights. After awhile it shuts down completely. Any help is greatly appreciated. I've tried D-M.com but they don't appear to have many parts for my model. After reading all the previous posts, I'm assuming I need a ballast or a new digital or DMD board. Any ideas? |
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Bronze Member Username: Root6t6Dallas, TX Post Number: 12 Registered: Feb-09 | Ovadoggvo, No I did not try the menu reset. Wish I'd thought of that when I had the board in. I have since bought another digital board and will be installing it when it comes in so it may be a mute point, unless the same thing happens with this one. Funny thing is after all the digital board swappin I've done the TV has been working perfectly... God I hate flakey electronics... That's why I went Mechanical engineering in school  |
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New member Username: MsvPost Number: 2 Registered: Feb-09 | Ovadoggvo, Thanks for your help...just ordered a DMD board from DM today for the HLN567WX/XAA, wish me luck. |
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New member Username: MsvPost Number: 3 Registered: Feb-09 | Bill K Spurlock, I think that it is your DMD board... I also believe that your HLN467W model uses the same DMD board that my HLN567W uses, (#AA41-00694E). DM has one in stock now for $179.00 + Shipping.  (SAMSUNG N/A Projection - DMD Board AA41-00694E HLN437W/HLN507W) DM recommends that you check the old part you have with the part they're selling on their website to make sure you are getting what you need. Take the back shielding off your old DMD board, there are numbers on the board that you can cross-reference with the photos of the part DM is selling.  |
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New member Username: Alias5Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-09 | Set is a Samsung HL-P5063W. Symptom is the set clicks and shuts off after about an hour illuminating the Standby/Temp indicator on the power button to a Standby state. After 30 seconds to a minute the set can be powered up. This has happened once or twice a month for a while now. Lately however the symptom has changed to where the set will shut off as before and after being powered on the set will go to Standby again after approx. ten minutes. This happens maybe 4 to 6 times and then the set will run for hours problem free until the set is powered off with the remote. Any ideas? |
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New member Username: BcvickersPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-09 | I have an HL-R4266W with the following symptoms (that I have not seen posted on this board): After pressing the power button I hear one click and a fan comes on (I can't tell if the color wheel spins up, is there a way to test that?). The lamp light will begin blinking followed by a one or two blinks from the standby light then the lamp light blinking again for about 30 seconds then back to a steady standby light with all other lights off. During this time I get no "tv on" melody, I can see that the lamp comes on, and the screen lights up with a dull flash of green on the left and then appears to be backlit. I opened her up and took out the color wheel to find no damage and it spins very nicely. To test the "lamp replacement door" switch I taped it in the closed position with no change in the reaction. I have scoured DM and I can't see where they offer the entire light engine for my model, will one from another similar model work? I hate to just "try" a color wheel assembly if it's actually my dmd board going. Any help is greatly appreciated. |
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New member Username: Joec999Post Number: 2 Registered: Feb-09 | Ovadoggo, You posted a reply to my post on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 11:07 am. Thank you for the wealth of information you provided!! I checked the fan operation as you suggested and it appears to be working as it shuts down. I am going to replace the lamp and color wheel next, but need some help with the color wheel part number. I looked up the parts list for this model (HLR5667WAX/XAA) at Samsungparts.com. It lists two different color wheels for this model: BP96-00674A: COLOR WHEEL (PHILLIPS) FOR CHASSIS (L3) and BP96-01103A: COLOR WHEEL / FOR CHASSIS (L6) I found two stickers on the light engine; the first one has the numbers L6-06-03 (56') DELT and the second sticker is a barcode with the numbers BP91-01847K 8028(SE) 20060120 MX06 56" L-6 8028 1101847140676. I see L6 mentioned on both stickers, would I be correct in assuming that this is an L6 chassis? Thanks, Joe |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 269 Registered: May-07 | Bill K Spurlock, DMD board seems to be bad from my prespective. The freezing and scrambling of video says it all. Let us know what happens. MSV, thanks for helping us find these parts. At times the boards are compatible with various sizes of the same model TV. Don't forget to do the factory reset to sync the boards after installation. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 270 Registered: May-07 | brian f, I think your color wheel may be bad. It heats up and falls off ballance. Causes clicking and shut off. IF your color wheel looks fine after opening the TV, check the Ballast. Guides for opening and checking ballast and color wheel can be found here: http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/guides.php |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 271 Registered: May-07 | Joseph Cih, Yes.. Your Chassis is L6 based purely on the fact that your light engine assy is BP91-01847K. Let us know how it goes. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 272 Registered: May-07 | Brad Vickers, Be a little more descriptive. Does your TV turn off after the blinking lights? What do you mean by green flash? |
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New member Username: YlhandlzWestminster, CO USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Aug-08 | I posted this issue back in August 2008, but never got an answer, so I thought I'd try again. I own a HLN507WX/XAA purchased June 2003 which had a colorwheel replacement under its extended service plan (Ultimate Electronics/Soundtrack) in June 2007. My problem now is that I'm getting the "3 blinking lights" after power up and perfect picture shown for 30 seconds. Since I replaced the lamp in November 2007 (i.e. 10 months of mild usage), my assumption was that I needed to replace the ballast. I chased the ballast for quite a while before a couple of different sites started posting pictures (AA47-00008A was the one and not BP47-00003A as instructed by Samsung customer service or BP47-00017A as recommended by partstore). I finally had the right part delivered today, popped it in and wham! Nothing! I'm still getting a picture for a few seconds before the tv powers down and the 3 blinking lights start again. This really doesn't seem like a DMD board issue judging by the other posts here, so I'm guessing I've got a bad power source. Help! |
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New member Username: BcvickersPost Number: 2 Registered: Mar-09 | "Be a little more descriptive. Does your TV turn off after the blinking lights? What do you mean by green flash?" Yes, everything shuts off except the temp/standby light. By green flash I mean a dim green cloud type flash that fades away quickly to the backlit screen. |
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New member Username: SgoconnorPost Number: 5 Registered: Jan-09 | Sounds alot like my problem Brad Vickers. My post is somewhere up the list. I don't get a green flash. I found if I unplug the TV for 48 hours it starts working again for about 5 days or so. I can tell its going to work by the start up chime. |
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