I am from the old school of diagnosing to component level but these newer sets with multi-layer boards and SMD components makes it more convenient to do a board change out as opposed to actual repair for the most part due to the labor expense.
I have recently been given a Samsung DLP HLR5067WAX/XAA set for disposal from one of the shops I do work for with an issue diagnosed as the Digital Board. I only trust my diagnosis and decided to do my own. Here are my symptoms:
Digital Air Input with PIP: Quarter size Pixels in Magenta, Blue but mostly green with a flash of intermittent full screen green.
Analog Air with PIP and Component Input with PIP: Vertical wide Bars in mostly Green, with some white and Magenta with a flash of intermittent full screen green. Horizontal fuzzy-black-fine lines full screen.
Menu and TV Guide overlays, PIP and VGA input display are good. I did not test it with further inputs.
Based on what I have been reading on this forum it seems that most problems are diagnosed as the DMD board which I have to say could be a quick to judge diagnosis. As stated in the Samsung Service Manual the Analog Board is the first stage then the Digital Board and the final stage is the DMD Board. FYI, A problem in the small signal stage will only be amplified in the final stage output so be sure where the problem originates. Here are my steps to verify that diagnosis first.
From the Service Manual. Access Factory Service Mode:
In Standby mode, press "Mute", "1", "8", "2" and "Power" to turn the screen on and enter service mode
Input screen will be whatever you have set as main input. Check if there is an error in the DMD board:
Highlight the DDP1011, then TEST PATTERN Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens: Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input. If the above screens do not appear, this is a DMD board error.
When the DMD board has been determined to be error free based on the test patterns check the DNIe:
Input screen will be whatever you have set as main input. Check if there is an error in the digital board before the DMD.
Highlight the DNIe, then TEST PATTERN Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens: Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.
If the above screens do not appear, IT MAY BE from a DMD board, an ATI error or there is an Analog board malfunction.
Since the DDP1011 and the DNIe passed I will be trying to access a known working Analog board to complete my diagnosis for board change out then hopefully take this to component level repair.
I hope this info will help with purchasing wrong boards for starters.
I have not been able to locate the exact Analog/Digital boards for my HLR5067WAX but I am currently using the Analog/Digital Chassis from a 42". I do not have all the features that my TV would have but at least I have made some Progress in that I have a working TV.
Sean PM'd me with the same symptoms as I described yet he was able to Test HDMI and it worked. I now wish I had kept our correspondence so I could post some of it here. So here is what I left out of my post.
My original problem from the Analog inputs looked just like Drew Simmons checkerboard green pattern and my over the air Digital broadcast was pixilated. I had no way to test the HDMI input. I changed a couple of SMD capacitors on the Analog Board and once I reinstalled the board it played perfectly for four hours. I figured that had fixed the problem so I moved the set to a new location only for my problems to reappear as you see in my photos. But there was the improvement from the Analog inputs. Without further diagnosis I can say that the problem maybe a combination of both boards.
Now let me give you a little heads up and I will not mention names. The boards you think you are buying are not refurbished. They are from salvage sets that may be new boards from damaged TV's but based on the year model I doubt any of those sets are still in existence. Most likely they are used boards and may actually have already developed the same problems you are already experiencing. I know brand new boards are available but I only know of a couple of places that actually refurbish boards for repair shops.
After 20 years I have just started back into doing TV repair full time and I still have all my old contacts. The board numbers do not mean a lot because based on you model it may have all the bells and whistles or it may just be a stripped down version. The manufacturer's part number is the only way to know it is the right board for your set. So beware of what you are buying and from whom.
With all that said I will try to help out here as much as possible.
Here is how to test the Lamp, Ballast Board, Color Wheel and Fans.
Pull the lamp housing Tie the door switch up to the closed position Turn on the TV All Fans should run, Color wheel should spin listen or shine a flashlight in the lamp side window to verify Watch at the left back side of the Ballast board for the starter to flash it will cycle flash three times Pull power cord to shut off or it will continue to try the three attempt cycle
This will verify the Color Wheel and Ballast board are getting power and most likely your problem is a bad lamp but you should also do a voltage test on the two prong plug on the Ballast board to see if there is 380 volts dc from the power board.
Check the white molex type plugs on the DMD Board from the Color Wheel and the Ballast Board. If they do not remove easily or break apart then you have possibly/probably damaged the DMD board due to those parts drawing too much current.
FYI: Times have changed and we are all guinea pigs for this new technology. Simply put it is all designed to break down quickly and all Government controls have been laxed. So do not blame the Manufacturer the blame lies in the hands of the Government for not enforcing those controls. All Manufactures had to supply replacement parts for 10 years and now they are allowed to get away with only two years support if that much. Never let a problem arise without trying to verify the reason. The longer it continues/I will live with it scenario the more damage it will cause. I never believed in buying the extended warranty but if you can get the maximum it is worth it.
I just want to say if you are seeking help from me or anyone else it is best if you will provide your full model number, product number and chassis number if available. You need to describe the problem to the best of your ability under all circumstances and provide photos if possible. I will do my best to help but I do work full time doing repairs so please be patient. Also please bring me up to date if you have posted your problem else where.
ATracker trying to understand what you are saying, 1. Should I try an Analog board first or try a Digital Board to replace.I know D-M doesnt let you return items you buy so I am hoping to get the right one the first time. I Thank You for helping me out!!!! Drew
Thanks for jumping over to my post but I have to say I have no real answer for you at this time. I will check out my source for refurbished boards and get back to you on their diagnosis on Monday. I am still not convinced one way or the other what the source of the problem is but I do suspect the Analog board because all voltages originate from that board. I think Mike B. just proved it with his replacement of the Digital Board and it failed within a short time frame. Stay tuned and I will post my answers here.
Andrew, Thanks I was going to buy a digital board but will wait now. I know D-M is out of stock of both and I checked out Partstore.com and they dont even show my model HLR5067WAX/XAA as being a model they show alot close to that model, I also went to Samsung's website and put in the Part # that D-M says is the # for the Digital and Analog Board and there search says Part no longer avalible so Again Thanks and I will wait until I hear more from you!!! Have a Great Weekend!!!
You want to extend the life of your DLP Lamp? Do not constantly turn it off and on. Seriously the biggest problem with failure with these Halogen lamps is due to the heating up and cooling down. I leave mine on 12 to 14 hours a day and you may think that is a lot of energy use but you are only running a 120 to 130 watt bulb for that time frame. I cannot say that it raised my home utility bill but maybe a dollar a month at the most. As opposed to the cost of a replacement that is cheap. At this time my lamp hours are at 20,103 and that goes to show the expected life of 3-5 thousand hours was based on not running the TV for long periods of time because most turn their sets on and off during the day.
We have the exact same model sets and I will keep you updated as soon as I can get the info you and I both need. FYI I have the sources for discounted New and refurbished Boards.
I thought it maybe the door switch too. This morning I pulled the switch wires and connected them together, bypassing the switch altogether.
The TV has been unplugged for days.
The lamp fired for 30 seconds and then the TV gave me the 3 blinking lights. The TV didn't attempt to retry 2nd and 3rd attempt.
Unplugged and tried again. This time TV fires lamp for 3 seconds. TV tries two more attempts with no fire. Ends with 3 blinking lights.
Thanks for your help. ________________________________________
HLN617W/XAA
New lamp installed Nov 08 Jan 09 - Lamp works 5 in 10 attempts after unplugging. Occasionally screen goes black with a few dozen tiny white squares. Mid FEB - dusted internals and inspected boards. Notice color wheel stops and starts during start up - Replaced color wheel. New color wheel does the same - must be normal. TV still has trouble starting 3 in 10 successful attempts. Replace ballast - lamp fires for 2 or 3 seconds (seven seconds after power pressed) (following days require multiple attempts to get lamp to fire) day 1 lamp fires for 30 minutes before it fails. day 2 lamp runs all day. day 3 lamp runs all day. One time TV picture goes black but still has sound. day 4 Installed another new lamp it fires for 2 or 3 seconds (seven seconds after power pressed) swapped old lamp, same results. day 5 numerous resets only one time did it fire for 2 or 3 seconds (seven seconds after power pressed)
Could it be a power board? fuses check good or DMD board or Digital control board?
Succsess!!! Not really. Unplugged and tried again. This time lamp fires and get a blue screen for a few seconds. Then screen displays black and white vertical stripes(about 2 inches wide)TV also made an audible pitch change. Sounded like the color wheel increased in speed. TV is locked up. Unplugged set. Aaarrrgh!!!
Hi Atracker I have been following your thread. I have a 2005 Samsung HLR4667W The set works fine in digital mode but the analog side looks green an irratic. After prolonged watching it will freeze and reset itself and the picture will be fine then it will freeze aganin. Once you turn it off it will only start back correctly if you unplug the set. After this it looks fine again on the HD channels not on the analog side. I also sometimes get the green square like in your pic but they go away after warm up.
After about every 3rd attempt I get a 3 second illumination from the the lamp. It sounds like the color wheel stops thus causing the lamp to go out. As soon as the color wheel stops it starts again only this time at a higher rpm (like shifting from 1st to 2nd) In between shifts the light goes out.
Where I am at now. I restarted the TV without the lamp, thus letting the TV go to 3 blinking lights. I then unplugged TV for 10 minutes. Then installed lamp, plugged in waited 5 minutes and restarted TV. Mute 1 8 2 power. Lamp did fire got service menu for 3 to 5 seconds then thin vertical black and white lines for 2 seconds then lamp out with 3 blinking lights.
Drew and the rest of us with these so called "older sets" I hate to say it but death is inevitable. That's just too hard for me to accept because I have never seen any name brand set with so few years not be able to be repaired. Today I spoke with one of the companies that refurbish boards and they gave me the news I feared the most. Samsung has discontinued the replacement parts. Although I explained that those that had replaced the Digital board (most likely used) experienced the same problem returning in a very short time. I was told that their most common repair based on the described symptoms is the Digital board. Because the failure is on the Digital board he could not say if it is contributed to by the Analog board. I think if you are getting the pixels in the Digital Broadcast then replacement of both boards is most likely the best choice but unfortunately this means being stuck buying them new. If the Analog Signal is all that is being affected you might be able to get by with only replacing the Analog board. Now if you are lucky enough and want to take the chance on used boards, as I stated above that could mean buying boards that have begun to develop problems.
Unfortunately I have not worked on your particular model set. Send me a PM with your email address and I will send you a PDF file from the service manual that might help you with further diagnosis. Once you have pinpointed a few things maybe we can come to a conclusion.
For starters check my update, but I can make at least one suggestion for know. Based upon what I have been seeing with this new technology and failure with digital boards in both DLP and LCD sets I feel it is related to heat. I do not know how comfortable you are with taking your set apart so I will have to wait for your reply. For now make sure you set is well ventilated on the backside and if possible put a small fan blowing into the left backside vents.
Hello Andrew, As I told you in my last post I went on Samsungs website and searched the part numbers for both the Digital and Analog boards and the search said PARTS no longer available, I bought my TV Brand New from Circuit City on NOV 2006 so for Samsung to say its an old TV is wrong. I dont know what to do now, I do know from all the Posts and many many different sites about these DLP TV's there should be a Class Action Law Suit like was done against Panasonic basically for the same thing.. Let me know if you have any suggestion's on what I can do. I dont like unpluging and pluging it back in all the time to make it work but if there is no Fix then I will start doing that all the time until it Dies........ Thanks, Drew
To ALL Unhappy Samsung Owners.I have contacted a Lawyer about starting a Class Action Lawsuit against Samsung for Defective Parts, Panasonic had one and they lost there case for defective Parts Google it you can see about it. But by reading all the posts here and on Many Many More sites, It seems over 80% of us have the same problems with are Samsung DLP TV's and now finding out that the parts are no longer available after less then 3 years is a Problem this is just an FYI if they take the case I am sure that many of you will want to get it on the suit, I will keep you posted if you are interested.
Hi Atracker I have been following your thread. I have a 2005 Samsung HLR4667W
Read your update and it sounds like I should try and replace the whole DMD board. Do you know the # for this part and or where you would try and get one?
MY set is well ventalitated however it seems you are suggesting an additional fan. Is this to keep the new board from failing. I was going to try and replace the board myself. I have built computers etc and it seems semi straight forward. An estimate to replace the board was 400.00 If I have to pay this it may be better to apply the money to a new set...
another owner of the Samsung HLR5067wax/waa with a possible bad DMD board. There is problem I had before the "Darkness" Picture freezing and then resetting.(Using Digital input)and green checkering pattern on analog input(75 ohm coaxial). Any opinions on repairs solutions. I have replace the lamp and it lights but for another a minute then the TV turns off. All fans seem to be running. Thanks David U.
Sorry for the delay in getting back here. Been dealing with a very sick friend and watching Marley and me did not help matters. Pain management is under control and I may not have to put him down.
Drew Simmons: Any updates for that class action lawsuit?
Yokemonkey: Did you try the tests in the service manual? Have you checked the white molex plugs to the DMD board to see if they have overheated/melted. I know the DMD board provides the voltages and signals to the color wheel.
David Viosca and David Uriarte: I do not think your problem is the DMD board but most likely the Analog board damaging the Digital Board. I would mount a computer fan on the heat sink of the Digital board IC and wire it into the external fan connection on the Analog Board for starters. If you have not done damage to the Digital Board IC this should help. I can give you part numbers for your set if you need them but as I stated in my update Samsung has discontinued the IC needed to repair the Digital Board so you are stuck with buying New if still available. Forget about buying used unless it is tested and guaranteed to work. If so I would then do the computer fan mounted to the heat sink I mentioned.
For some of you experiencing problems with freezing, breakup, pixilation, black out and you see the window popup of loss of signal, weak signal or the channel window pops up do not assume the worst. Your problem could be as simple as reception problems. No need to buy some expensive antenna based on the so called HD antenna requirement.
Test all your inputs that you possibly can check for starters. If your problems only exist with over the air Broadcast then your problem is your antenna. I have a very large outdoor antenna in my attic and have never had reception problems before the change over to Digital. These new Digital tuners in all sets are very sensitive to reception problems. This is like the Satellite reception problems we have seen over the years with break up, freezing and loss of signal due to weather in the area or sun spot flare ups. I have been experiencing problems on both Analog and Digital over the air broadcast due to weather related occurrences. If it is windy or inclement weather is in the area I have reception problems described above. I have a friend that lives in an Apartment complex that tells me cars driving by affect his reception with the building antenna.
I learned in February that until the change over is complete the Broadcast stations will continue to run both Analog and Digital broadcast on lower level output to save energy costs. The only way I can get through these situations is to access my Digital to Analog converter box to receive reception with very little breakup.
I have a Samsung DLP TV HL-R4667W that was recently serviced to replace the color wheel and the lamp. After the service, the colors seem to be distorted. Blacks and browns look greenish, and skin tones seem distorted also. What can be causing this problem? Is there any adjustments that we could do on our own to correct this?
My Samsung DLP has had the notorious chainsaw noise for about 6 months but it just started having color issues so I thought the color wheel finally went out. I replaced the color wheel and the tv is quiet now but still has color issues once it warms up. It will get like red / yellow color wash or something accross parts of the screen, it comes and goes. The immages will look like a sceen from the predator or something. If I turn it off and let cool down it will go away for awhile but then comes back. Can anyone help with this problem? From what I'm reading everywhere, DLP's are the wrong way to go! I hate to just trash it though. Please Help!!!
I'm no expert but it seems to me that alot could be diagnosed from the five pin connector that goes to the ballast if you knew what pin and what it goes to was supposed to have voltage or no voltage for the component to be working properly.
Does anybody know the information pertaining to this?
*I have a 2006 Samsung HLR4667W which I am having the same problem as Drew Simmons. * *I have read through this post and the other "DLP HELP" post and thus checked a bunch of things... *I checked the other inputs...AV 1 sometimes works, but AV 2 doesn't (green/black squares while still showing picture), Component 1 works okay, but component 2 doesn't??? *I checked the DDP1011 and it was okay, checked the DNIe and I didn't get white, but I get the other colors and a bunch of other test patterns. *When I unplug the TV and plug it back in it sometimes works, but not always. It occasionally freezes up and I lose control of the remote functions. I also noticed that it does have good menu function while it has the green patterns, but not always. *So, what is your professional opinion here?
Hi ATracker, I followed your instructions on testing the DDP1011 and everything was fine, then I tested the DNIe and it was missing the white screen. Can you please advise what the problem may be if missing the white screen? We have the green square/plaid look off and on. Thanks
I have contacted ecr department of samsung, If your tv is freezing with black and white pix. they will fix it free of charge if your tv is made aug 2006 or newer.
This does not help me, mine was made sep 03. If any one has had any luck replacing dmd board on 5065w any tips would be great!
i am also having probs. with green pixel baoxes on hd ota and on stanndard cable chanels green line and interference. i test DNle and no white box. any solutions?
[quote]Here is how to test the Lamp, Ballast Board, Color Wheel and Fans.
Pull the lamp housing Tie the door switch up to the closed position Turn on the TV All Fans should run, Color wheel should spin listen or shine a flashlight in the lamp side window to verify Watch at the left back side of the Ballast board for the starter to flash it will cycle flash three times Pull power cord to shut off or it will continue to try the three attempt cycle
This will verify the Color Wheel and Ballast board are getting power and most likely your problem is a bad lamp but you should also do a voltage test on the two prong plug on the Ballast board to see if there is 380 volts dc from the power board. [/quote]
Alright, I have a Samsung HLP506W 50 in. DLP TV from 2004. I've replaced my Color wheel after it shattered 3 years ago, and replaced the lamp just under 2 years ago. Now, my TV will shut itself off for no reason. I can turn the TV on, but after 3 minutes it will turn off and all three lights are blinking like a smiley face that taunts me. I will turn it on, it starts normal and there are no picture problems. After about 3 minutes, the lamp shuts off, and then the TV will shut off.
Per the above advice, I opened it up, cleaned out the dust. taped the door switch so it's closed. Checked and verified both the fans and the color wheel is spinning. I did notice that the 3 green lights on the board (DMD or ballast I am not sure) did not blink or flash 3 times like it states above. As soon as there is power, it has one green solid light. When I turn it on, it has 3 solid green lights but does not blink or flash any cycles.
The lamp looks fine, and I don't hear multiple clicking from the ballast. I hear it click on when I turn on the power, and the lamp is on right away, and then it clicks off after a minute of the power being off. It doesn't struggle, and the lamp is shining bright and doesn't look dark.
I was thinking it was a temp. sensor or the DMD board. How can I tell for sure, any advice on a fix?
A tracker or anyone with same model I have experienceing all the symtoms ,sorry this is so long and probably confusing. I have a DLP "04" HLP6163WX/XAA. I have been trying to isolate my problem just as the rest.Going on third new bulb- Then the misterious crap started,loss of control to power down tv after screen mysteriously goes black. With remote or power button on tv. I have since installed new color wheel( was whining and getting screechy but it did work!)Installed new ballast,soldered in new thermistors on main pwr board after reading that these can go bad(didn't help)my current way to get tv to turn on is this-After un plugging and resetting tv numerous times(letting the new bulb cool for a minuite or two so I dont ruin my new bulb) it will fire up lamp,sometimes it last a while,some times it wont light bulb at all. Then it will retry on its own a few more times not rappid refire attempts but every minuite or so before it just blinks bulb then the remote or power button will not turn tv off. I have to unplug and replug it in., sometimes I will get the three blinking bulb overtemp,bulb and the other on tv power up button after 3 attempts,then and only then can I use the remote or power button to to turn off tv and turn it back on. It will run all day once I get it fired up to stay,I think if I never turn it off it would continue to run fine indefinatly,the problem only exzists after I power down the tv for the night or for a trip to the grocery store etc and try to turn it back on. Also while watching tv some times I get a loss of signal (blue screen) then it finds signal again. I am under the assumption it is the digital board, not the dmd board. Im gathering from all the blogs on this thread put togeather I should install an additional fan on the left side of the tv blowing accrost the input board or where? to keep it from overheating? and burning out a new digatal board. Im gathering should be the problem? OH ya have ck,d all safty switches (bulb access blue switch tied down with bread tie and tested works fine, bulb overtemp bimetal (jumped out) to conferm that it was not the problem, rehooked up so I dont burn my house down.I am ready to buy a new digital board but I don't want it to just go bad in two weeks or ruin my DMD board if it hasn't already. I have only had the screen go black and white once and freeze up, and occasonally the colors get all green and and out of whack. But unplugging tv and replugging fix this. In conclusion am asking "NEW DIGITAL BOARD AND INSTALL a FAN" OR NEW DIGITOL BOARD ALSO DMD BOARD AND INSTALL A FAN. IF its the second option I may have to take this tv out back and have a bonfire with it. Can sombody set me straight on what is my best coure of action?
hi can anyone tell me the voltage you should get from the ballast to the lamp on a samsung hlt 5675s by the way i am getting 304 volts in the balast from the power board
Well it would appear that these Samsung TV's have alot of problems. I have a HLN567wx/xaa that was given to me from a well intentioned neighbor. The TV is about 8yr old I think. and it was used as a tv for the kids video games. so it was left on for hours at a time. He said that the TV would occasionally overheat from being left sitting running video game screen and shut down. he think the fan is at fault but fan works Has had a color wheel replaced. and I have replaced the lamp in an attempt to fix the problem. It does this: turn TV on, one lamp blinky.(standby mode) fan comes on, hear color spin up, lamp comes on for 2-3 sec. then shuts off. now all three LED blinky, (lamp defective?) repeats the fan, color wheel spin up. lamp comes on. then shuts off. sometimes it repeats a third time. and it gives up and shuts off completely. lamp has been replaced. no change. never does the screen ever show sign of life. test mode (mute,1,8,2,power) does nothing...
Could it be DMD board? I have just barely started getting in the diagnostic. on this. Problem is I am a mechanical engineer. Sparky things are just NOT my cup of tea. Local TV shops just say bring it in!!we'll put a new board in it! only several hundred dollars!! well, problem is, this mech engineer in out of work and broke so I got to fix this gizmo by myself... will check ballast voltage, how can I check analog, digital or this DMD board.. Where IS the DMD board on this set. Is it the large metal encased board?
Dane, the dmd board is directly behind the small cooling fan with an aluminum heat sink behind it. If you read my problem symptoms they are simmilar to yours. I replaced everything (-bulb,color wheel,ballast,digitol board.) but my dmd board and guess what. Nothing worked untill I purchaced a used light engine 400.00 with a working dmd board on it.Best bet is to look for a complete light engine at the right price and start from there. The dmd board comes with the light engine. Most light engines dont come with a bulb though. good luck, total cost for my fix was approx 700.00 but it beats buying a new one at 3000.00
I have the HLR5067WAX/XAA ver PU01. This was my dads tv and was given to me after he passed away.
I get it home, set it up in the gameroom much to the delight of my boys. About a week after it arrives it begins to freeze up, audio shuts off, tv shuts off then restarts.
The cycle will repeat every 7 to 10 minutes. There are no issues with the colors.
Someone please tell me that this is not an expensive fix or a dead television.
Peter Greif (Yokemonkey) Post Number: 3 Registered: Apr-09 Posted on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 02:37 pm:
Regarding this earlier post by the user above (picture included). I also have this black vertical line problem on my samsung. I don't see any resolution posted on the thread. Does anyone know for sure if it is the bulb, color wheel, or dmd board that is causing the problem yet?
Geoff, unlikely to be the lamp if you are actually getting a picture, besides you will see that the lamp is still lit by looking through the rear grill of the tv. As for the color wheel, if its not spinning or the wheel has shattered the colours would be grey and white or something like that i.e. no colours (red, green etc..) would be shown at all. Its unlikely the lamp would light if the c/w was not spinning as it is part of the starting up sequence, if no signal from wheel lamp will not light. So this then leaves the DMD board being the most likely of your problems or the digital board, Have you attempted accessing the Service Menu and running through the Test Pattern checks on the DDP1011 first and then the DNIe?
I don't have a service manual and just replaced the DMD board on my HLP6163WX/XAA. I also recently replaced the ballast. I need a new ribbon cable that comes from the DMD board to the ballast, mine had one of the plugs come apart. It's a 5-wire flat ribbon with two different plugs. Anyone have that part number?
What does the broken connector end connect to? (DMD end) Any chance you can identify the connector, if I can find one in my spares happy to send it onto you.
Here's the only image I have of it right now, I'm at work and can't take another. This is the end of the wire and the input port is behind it. I think I measured the width of the 5wire plug around 1.25mm.
Yes except it is wider. I can take a top photo of it later with a ruler in the shot. The other end of the wire is as small as the one on the left in that shot.
Connectors from desktop pc's will be too big, possibly from a laptop though. But shall look later, don't want to burn dinner! I will get back to you tonight.
I have found a connector in my spare screw box so may be lucky with this one. As well as the physical size of the connector, the important factor is the spacing between the pins. Measure these too if you can, might be a little difficult.
It appears to be about 1.5mm from outside to outside of two pins. My calipers can't fit in the port but was able to get close enough to close them to get that measurement.
I ordered a new wire from J&J imports who are the Samsung parts dealer in the US. Wire is installed and everything is back together but I still have squiggly lines in some video after replacing... DMD Board Ballast Color Wheel (3mo ago)
I hope I don't need a new chip, I'm afraid to plunk more money into this thing.
I got the green plaid screen. Replaced Digital board and got nothing. Put in a second digital board and now I get a flickering screen with in and out cloudiness. Someone suggested that is may be the DMD board. Any suggestions
I have a samsung hlr 5656wx/xaa dlp problem i'm having is verticle lines on screen went thru DMD test all clear went thru DNIe screen all screens have lines but the blue was told it was probably the DMD chip but after finding this forum it sounds more like the digital board, can you help with insight please
I have a samsung hlr 5656wx/xaa dlp problem i'm having is verticle lines on screen went thru DMD test all clear went thru DNIe screen all screens have lines but the blue was told it was probably the DMD chip but after finding this forum it sounds more like the digital board, can you help with insight please
I have the same problem with the same model ,I have replaced DMD board and DLP chip but the problem persists, appreciate if you could let me know how you resolved your issue?
Model HL-R5066WX/XAC. Was having problems with red green and white vertical lines that would go away after tv was on for a bit. Now they wont go away. It passes the ddp1011 test all colors show up without lines. The full screen DNIe test looks good but the small box color and black and white striped screens the vertical lines appear slightly offset from the boxes. It does it on all sources even cable, lines appear around cable window in top left of screen. Now sitting here changing sources and going into the 182 menu its all cleared up. Any help would be appreciated.
