Archive through January 01, 2008
|
New member Username: Bong2California Post Number: 2 Registered: Jan-07 | Couch potato again!!! As I mentioned before, HLP5063w will cycle on and off, buzzing sound from the back, screen blank (looking at the lamp, it did not look like it's on), and 3 blinking lights of death. I initially replaced the lamp. But it didn't do anything. I then changed the color wheel. The TV fired right up. My guess is that some safety feature prevents the lamp or TV to turn on if the color wheel is damaged. Although, I don't understand why the wheel would keep on turning eventhough it's broken. Replacing the color wheel on the 5063w is alot simplier than I thought. 2 screws from the back holds the metal tray that the lense, engine, color wheel, lamp and fans are connected/screwed on. Slowly pull this metal tray, and unplug whatever connectors(about 4) are keeping it from being pulled out. Finding the color wheel should be easy after pulling this metal tray out. Most of my time were mostly spent vacuuming dust from all the parts. It took me about 1 1/2 hrs, but this is because I wanted to go slow and take my time. Sorry no pics. My camera happens to be broken this week. |
|
New member Username: Stan_tall_manPost Number: 1 Registered: Feb-07 | I've had my HL-S6187W for several months now. I started having problems with it shutting off and blinkin the temp and lamp led's on the front. Like the other person had said, this doesn't happen regularly, but it does happen in waves. I replaced my cable box and tried different cables, etc and none of that worked. I called samsung and they sent a repair man out and they replaced some board in the tv. They had asked me if it makes the shut down sound when it shuts off. Before they replaced this board it had not made this sound, since they've replaced this board, it still shuts down and now doesn't make the sound. I've called samsung probably 10 times now. I've learned from other sources that this is an issue with this particular board in the tv and that samsung may be in some legal battle with the producer of the board. In the mean time I'm in tech support hell because the local place won't call me back and samsung keeps passing me off. I know this is an issue with this model because I know more than a few people with this same issue. Some of this model work fine though, must have been a bad batch. Samsung is submitting a request to replace my tv since it's under warrenty. Has anyone else had this problem and got it fixed? |
|
New member Username: Working_stiffPost Number: 1 Registered: Feb-07 | Could use some advice. My Samsung S5087W DLP was delivered about a month ago. Great HD picture and no problems until about a week ago. The set has started shutting off by itself. There is no apparent pattern as to the interval between shutoffs. It was on for four hours Monday night with no problems, however, today my son said it shut down every two minutes for a period this morning and tonight it shut off three times in 30 minutes. I've seen references to similar problems. Anyone know what is going on? Any suggestions appreciated! Thanks |
|
New member Username: Stan_tall_manPost Number: 2 Registered: Feb-07 | John, only thing I an suggest is start the ball rolling with samsung and call them to get service. Your tv should have a 1 year warrenty so you shoulnd't have to pay for anything. |
|
New member Username: RonnichFT MYERS, FLORIDA USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-07 | PLEASE HELP WE HAVE A SAMSUNG DLP HLN507W AND WITHOUT WARNING RHYME OR REASON THE SCREEN WILL FREEZE LIKE A NEGATIVE ON A CAMERA THE SOUND IS FINE AND AFTER SHUTTING OFF THE TV WHICH IS THE ONLY BUTTON THAT WORKS AT THIS TIME WHEN YOU TURN THE TV BACK ON EVERYTHING IS FINE LIKE NOTHING HAPPENED OF COURSE SAMSUNG WAS NO HELP SO I TURN TO YOU OUT THERE ANTHING WILL HELP!! |
|
Bronze Member Username: AsamizayCentreville, VA Usa Post Number: 15 Registered: Apr-06 | Hello, I have Samsung S5087W, I m getting pixalation once in a while. I called Samsung and they said i should get contact the cable company. I have Verizon Fios. The verizon tech came, changed the cable and also swaped the HD DVR. I m still getting the pixlation. Is it my TV or is it still the cable service? Please advise. Thanks |
|
New member Username: Daco63Michigan USA Post Number: 5 Registered: Mar-07 | Ronnie, My problems started like yours - periodic frozen black & white image. Now I have constant problem with right side of screen. I'm trying to investigate the cause of the problem further, and started a new thread on this problem type here: https://www.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=1067832#POST1067832 I will post whatever I find out over there. - Dave (By the way, you should try not to type in all capitals, because IT LOOKS LIKE YOU'RE YELLING.) |
|
New member Username: Sanko96Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-07 | FYI - I can't thank you enough. This is my first and only post because I had to let you and the forum know how much your posts have helped me. I have had my Sam DLP for over 3yrs. I was lucky to stumble on this forum when my DLP started to act up (it looked like there was a strobe light in my T.V) and my warranty was long gone. I followed your advice from previous posts. First, told repair man there was no way in hell he was taking my T.V to the shop. Second, I called Samsung Cust. Service relentlessly (atleast 1 or 2x a day for 3 weeks) until they connected me with the ECR group. Result: they offered me an exchange. A brand new upgraded Sammy for $600. At best I was hoping to get just the parts paid for. Thanks Again |
|
New member Username: David_g99352Post Number: 4 Registered: Jan-07 | Just came across this forum --- excellent info!! HLP-5063W odd problem: It will turn **ON** all by itself, usually at nite or when we are away from home. To go along with this, the VOLUME display will intermittently flash on and off with no input from the remote control, and even turn itself down to the "0" level. (I have gone so far as to deactive all remote controls, to no avail). Before I call out a service rep (not under warranty) I would like to see if anyone here has an idea as to what is causing my probs. FWIW --- The bulb has about 5,600 hrs on it and is starting to display symptoms of dying out. I plan to open the unit up the weekend and do a thorough cleaning as has been suggested here. Thanks for any help on this. David G |
|
Bronze Member Username: AsamizayCentreville, VA Usa Post Number: 16 Registered: Apr-06 | Hi I have a HLP-50W which is less than a year old. I have had a problem w/ a big grey round spot on the middle of the screen since I purchased the TV. Finally samsung sent someone to replace the engine today. The spot is still there and additionally the TV goes off every few mins by itself and I have to turn it back on. Any idea why? Thanks |
|
Bronze Member Username: AsamizayCentreville, VA Usa Post Number: 17 Registered: Apr-06 | correction: i have HLR5067W and as I mentioned the engine was replaced this morning. Thanks |
|
New member Username: Mayj6Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-07 | I have a Samsung HL-R5087W. It's a factory refurb (I know, I rolled the dice). Whenever the tv is off, there is a low whine--hard to hear unless your listening but drives you crazy after awhile. The second you turn it on, the whistle stops (even before tv volume blocks out). I didn't see it anywhere else in the blog. Anyway to deal with this without involving a service repairman? |
|
Gold Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 1053 Registered: May-05 | It's most likely the power supply. Refurbs have 90 day warranties. |
|
New member Username: Mayj6Post Number: 2 Registered: Mar-07 | 90 days is passed. Power supply?--what do i do to fix? |
|
Gold Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 1056 Registered: May-05 | Unless you know how to replace the PS board, I'd set up a service call. There's always a gamble with refurbs. They do provide a savings over new that should give even more incentive for purchasing an extended warranty. 1-800-SAMSUNG may help with the part. |
|
New member Username: RebelbrittPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-07 | I have a Samsung DLP 43" HDTV that is 3 years old. I have never had a problem until now. Last night I was watching TV, had to run an errand, and turned it off as usual. When I returned, the TV had ZERO power when I tried to turn it on. I did the basic troubleshooting(Made sure outlet was live, Flipped breakers, etc.) but TV is still not working. Has absolutely ZERO reaction when I try to power it on. Please Help! |
|
New member Username: NpbPost Number: 5 Registered: Oct-06 | @rebelbritt My HLN had problems--so a tech put in a new digital board (not sure which firmware version since he had to come out six times because he kept bringing the wrong or a bad board). Anyway, the second-to-last time he came out was because the TV did something like what you described. However, I had a blinking light on the front of the TV (I believe), but the TV wouldn't power on. The day the tech came out to fix the board, my father-in-law cut the power to the house to do some electrical work, and the TV worked after that. Weird. I still had the tech replace the digital board because that was the first and only time my TV ever did that (and the only thing different about the TV was the new digital board--which I'm pretty sure was actually a reconditioned board). |
|
New member Username: Stan_tall_manPost Number: 3 Registered: Feb-07 | Greetings, I finally got the problem with my 61" 1080p fixed. My tv was turning itself off and blinking the lamp and temp lights. It was determined after several months that a switch on the bulb cover is poorly designed. I have my tv setting near a furnace vent and when the tv would get warm then cool, the cabenit would shrink and expand which would fire the switch on the bulb cover... thus shutting off the tv. They added some piece to the bulb box and it's worked ever since. |
|
Gold Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 1057 Registered: May-05 | Congratulations Stan! Thanks for sharing your fix. The lamp door switch is something we will all have to watch out for. I've been reading a lot of posts about spontaneous shut-downs lately. Doesn't seem to be model specific, either. Best regards! ****************************************************************************** |
|
New member Username: ThobanPost Number: 2 Registered: Mar-07 | Looking for suggestions: My DLP picture had been very "psychedelic" lately, meaning that the colors in certain parts of the picture were turning red/blue/green. This occurred especially in shadowed areas. Now, the problem has worsened and the picture is freezing up and going out all together. The sound also. I have a Samsung HL-R4266W. Does anyone have any suggestions or a diagnosis? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks! |
|
Gold Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 1058 Registered: May-05 | posted above: The digital board is heating up. Hope it's not too late for yours. Extended warranties are a practical requirement for these new technologies! Don't forget to take the back off your set and clean things up in there with a brush attachment to your vac hose. Cleaning the inside every six months can prevent premature failure of several major components. After all, it's a projector that pulls air through it to keep things cool. With the air flow comes dust, lint, hair, bugs, etc. Pay extra attention to the cooling fans. Tape the cover switch shut and power up the set. Check that the fans spin equally and quietly. They are easy to replace if needed. |
|
New member Username: CkostWoolwich, Nj Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-07 | Thanks FYI. We purchased a 71" rear projection from Samsungabout 3 months ago and 4 days ago we stopped getting any video. I saw your "post" from July of'05 telling another to turn the set off several times and slap the left back. We did and it(TV) did. We now have an image. What concerns me is both Best Buy and Samsung dragged their collective feet in responding. After 4 days I'm still waiting to hear from either's repair service.}}} |
|
New member Username: Working_stiffPost Number: 2 Registered: Feb-07 | S5087W Shutoff problem solved. Was shutting off with no apparent pattern to either frequency of the shutoffs or interval between them. Samsung sent a repairman out who replaced the lamp because the existing one had a series of "microcracks." He said the lamp was leaking heat and triggering an overtemp sensor and was also extremely sensitive to changes in ambient room temperature. He also said they've seen an increase in such damage to the lamps....they theorize it is happening during shipping, principally when the vendor is other than Samsung, since many different types of boxes are loaded into the same trailer and they think they are getting banged around a lot...more so than when Samsung ships like-sized boxes on pallets to retailers. Interesting theory....who knows what the truth is, but I do know this....replacing the lamp solved the shutoff issue. |
|
New member Username: TahoejimwSouth Lake Tahoe, CA USA Post Number: 3 Registered: Jan-07 | My HL-S6187W DLP TV will intermittently be psychedelic. 90% of the time it works fine, but when it goes wacky, the colors will fracture and bleed, turning mainly green and purple. The images are still there, but the colors look like a bad 1960's movie, morphing through the images. If I turn it off, it will go back to normal, but I sometimes have to turn it on and off several times before it does. The digital board was just replaced, but the problem remains. Suggestions? |
|
New member Username: EunpyungPost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-07 | I have a Samsung HL-S5087W HD DLP TV and about 3 days ago I noticed a transparent gray bar on the right side of the TV. Today when I turned on the TV, the gray bar now covers half of the screen. I've had the TV for about 10 months, purchased for the World Cup. Any help or information regarding this problem would be greatly appreciated. Please PM me or email me. |
|
New member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 1 Registered: May-07 | John, I just spoke with one of the guys at www.discount-merchant.com and they have more of the new philips vented lamp in stock! Check out http://fixyourdlp.com/blog/?p=32 for more information on it. This idea is really genius and it works better than the original big bulb that's discontinued by Philips. We are a service center for Samsung and RCA and we buy dozens of lamps from these guys a week. We have started using the small lamp with the adapter in nearly all the lamp replacements we do because it seems to be a more reliable and longer lasting solution. The vented design on the lamp keeps it from imploding under changes in the ambient room temperature. It's genius I tell you! It's truely a Better-Than-Original solution! |
|
New member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 2 Registered: May-07 | Josh y, It sounds like a cold solder issue on the digital board. Try leaving the TV on for a few hours to see if the gray bar increases, reduces, flickers, or changes at all. Let us know! |
|
New member Username: Sjones1Post Number: 7 Registered: May-07 | Ovadoggvo, I'm glad I'm not the only person whose heard of Discount-Merchant.com, but I'm a bit sad because you seem to have found them first! I didn't need an adapter for my lamp (BP96-00826A lamp code) but the price and service was incredible! Ovadoggvo, so do Samsung's have a lot of lamp issues or am I one of the exceptions? BTW, here is a link to the store where i got my lamp: http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-HLM437W1X-OEM-Replacement-LAMP-BULB-p/s amsung-bp96-00826a-lamp.htm&Click=1466 S.Jones |
|
New member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 3 Registered: May-07 | S. Jones, No, you're not the only one with issues with their lamp. If you are having a problem with the lamp burning out, you might want to replace your ballast, but before you do so try getting one of the newer vented lamps to see if the problem consists. The link above seems to be the right way to go... Some times lamps "burn out" because of extensive use and overheating. If you have one of the older "big" philips lamps, try putting one of those air ionizers near or behind your set to prevent dust from getting in there. This should increase your lamp life noticeably. If you have an imploding problem, it means that your balast had a surge or the room ambience and/or temperature changes have caused your lamp to implode. Have you ever tried heating a plate in the microwave then sticking it under cold water? Same effect.. the plate breaks instantly due to the sudden change in temperature. Your DLP lamp gets hot, REALLY HOT! Again, the newer design of the lamps by philips are vented. They are now used in ALL newer tvs manufactured by samsung for this reason: Relaiability! They are a better engineered lamp which is more resistent to changes in room temperature and are vented to run cooler. If you are in the market for a new lamp, don't buy generic brands like OSRAM or LTI.. The cheap manufacturing of these lamps have been known to leave consumers with a non-working TV during important events such as the NBA Playoffs! We used LTI or OSRAM brand lamps for a few months in the service center and you can tell how cheap they are by unscrewing your case and looking at them. Some of the lamps had the legs (which are supposed to prevent the lamp from rotating in the enclosure) GLUED on to the lamp.. As if some guys in the china plant were sitting there modifying them instead of sending the batch to the trash. I wish I had pictures! They produce cheap lamps in order to reduce the consumers cost (by maybe $20) but this is a mistake, because it cost more in the long run. Their copy of the new "vented" small lamp has the sides cut out by what looks like a glass cutter i use at home. Philips (the innovator of this lamp) version has a nice rounded edge and lip in order to get the air in and out properly. OSRAM looks like they made a standard round sealed lamp, and just poked a hole on the sides after the manufacturing was complete. Philips is the number one Manufacturer of Lamps in the world (From Home lamps to DLP UHP Lamps). A chinese off brand manufacturer such as OSRAM/LTI doesn't have the quality control or engineering to produce a quality product such as philips. So be sure you ask your supplier if the lamp is an original PHILIPS brand lamp. |
|
New member Username: JohnnycagePost Number: 1 Registered: May-07 | OvadoggvO, Thanks for the advice. I ordered the lamp on yesterday and it got here today. I did the swap out and my TV turned right on the first time. The picture is clear and bright. I would buy from them again... Fast shipping, great customer service, and they told me it comes with a warranty so you really can't beat that. |
|
Bronze Member Username: Sjones1Post Number: 19 Registered: May-07 | ovadoggvo, OSRAM, is NOT a generic lamp...but you're right, it's not the ORIGINAL lamp... I think OSRAM is made in Germany. Can someone confirm? Regardless, I know what you mean and that was precisely my point. Doesn't make sense to use a generic lamp on your $3,000 when the price difference is $5-$10...actually Discount-Merchant.com's price IS LOWER than the GENERICS! ovadoggvo, you refurbish tvs for a living? |
|
Bronze Member Username: MarshcatUnited States Post Number: 21 Registered: Dec-06 | Back With an update... I had goteen absolutely nowhere with Samsung after MANY calls. The service center had my TV, and I needed $120 to get it back. (diagnostic+pickup) On principle, I was refusing to pay the fee. They were going to auction off my tv after 90 days. I got a call from Samsung last week. They denied my request to continue with this case. I called back one final time and gave one last argument. I finally succeeded in getting them to pay the $120 diagnostic fee so I could at least get my TV back. It came back today. My wife got the delivery. I was not there. I just tried to turn on the TV. It won't turn on...THE LAMP WONT LIGHT! Previously, I would turn it on at watch for a while before the digital board problem started to kick in. Now, it is completely bricked! What should I do? The service center broke my TV! Do I have any recourse? thanks, Dan |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 12 Registered: May-07 | Dan, I'm sure the service center didn't swap your lamp out or anything. They may have refused to reconnect some of the wires. I work for a service center (to answer Steves question).. I suggest opening the TV and making sure all is connected and the lamp is seated properly. Maybe the switch is not triggered by the lamp door. Service center may have just left it, and refused to "continue service" on your product because you refused to pay the diagnostic fee and samsung may have refused to pay the dag fee. Sometimes the service centers may return your product just so they don't have to deal with unhappy customers. $120 is nothing for a reliable service center and its definately not worth bad feedback from the customer to the manufacturer. Your next step is to pick up a digital board from part sellers. Partstore is expensive and may not be worth the purchase, specially if you need a lamp as well. Try ebay.. If not you might want to try calling discount-merchant.com, I know we have had emergencies on plasma tv's and they stock a used or refurbished part... Good luck! |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 13 Registered: May-07 | Steve, I DON'T recommend GENERIC brand or non-OEM lamps. To me OSRAM ****IS**** a very GENERIC brand lamp. And here is why: RCA and Samsung do use OSRAM in VERY FEW of their TV's from the factory.. Samsung will show a (O) at the end of the lamp model number if it came with OSRAM lamp and (P) if it came with Philips. I too was wondering why would they do such a thing... They know that philips is a better/more reliable lamp, why else are 90% of their TV's being shipped out with Philips? I used to be a Technician for Samsung west coast for many years before I moved to this service center where I'm currently employed (The biggest on the west BTW). I called the head of service of the west coast (a friend of mine) in order to get to the bottom of this. The reason for this is due to the manufacturing limitations from Philips at the China and Belgium factories. Once DLP's go into production, they manufacture millions of TV's a year. Millions multiplied by THE absolute biggest manufacturer's that use these bulbs = MORE MILLIONS. Philips limits the quantities it can distribute to each manufacturer due to the supply/demand issues. They also do not PRE-Produce large quantities to hold because of concerns of revisions. Philips is the PREFERED manufacturer of Lamps for Samsung & RCA! Philips is the ONLY brand Lamp used in ZENITH/LG, SONY, MITSUBISHI, PHILIPS/MAGNAVOX, HITACHI TVs. AKAI and Vizio and other off-brand TV's also PREFER Philips if the can get their hands on it. On some production runs off-brand manufacturers will NOT be able to fill all their TVs with Philips and may resort to OSRAM. Philips at times was not able to manufacture the lamps fast enough to feed Samsung and RCA's needs while maintaining a consistent supply to Sony, Mitsubishi, Hitachi, LG/Zenith Corporation, Philips/Magnavoz, and other brands such as AKAI and VIZIO... BOTTOM LINE: Samsung and RCA have NO CHOICE but to buy OSRAM to complete their production run! SPECIAL NOTICE: ALL REPLACEMENT LAMPS AND WARRANTY FULLFILMENT LAMPS SHIPPED FROM THE ABOVE MANUFACTURERS ARE MADE BY PHILIPS! They will NOT use OSRAM brand lamps AFTER a production line, EVER! All this being said, OSRAM and LTI lamps are considered GENERIC in my mind because they are NOT the prefered manufacturer for DLP lamps. SONY will never use them and neither will I in my own TV. Finally, a recommendation in purchasing a lamp for your Samsung DLP TV ..... Here is the link to my favorite dealer of Philips lamps - This lamp is universal and will fit ALL Samsung TV's (Except very first generation production line which used Toshiba lamps) - most universal lamp on the planet: http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-BP96-00224J-OEM-Replacement-LAMP-BULB-p /samsung-bp96-00224j-oem.htm&Click=1460 We buy TONS of lamps from these guys because they are the absolute experts in DLP / LCD projection lamp technology. THE CHEAPEST on the net for OEM lamps as well. They ONLY provide OEM Philips (Used in SONY, MITSUBISHI, SAMSUNG, HITACHI, LG/ZENITH, AKAI, VIZIO, PHILIPS, MAGNAVOX), Toshiba (Used in Toshiba TVs), and PANASONIC (Used in JVC and Panasonic TVs). If they don't have an OEM Philips for your TV, they just won't sell it! They always ship to us the SAME day as opposed to the manufacturer that takes 6-8 weeks on warranty replacements, 2-4 weeks on part orders, and 1-2 weeks on expedited orders (that cost extra). If they don't have the bulb, try the manufacturer but I warn you, it does take longer. Another source (expensive) is partstore.... Again they take 2-3 days just to ship the package! Also the link above is for a new product that they have for samsung, rca, and LG "big bulb" tvs that uses the current more reliable "vented" Philips lamp in a retrofit adapter. This idea is ingenius and works EXTREMELY well. I hope this post helps! Good luck! |
|
New member Username: ApotheconPost Number: 1 Registered: May-07 | I have a 3 year old Samsung hlp5063w.I'm now getting flickering,colored horizontal lines on the right, 25% of the screen.More noticeable in bright colored scenes,but always there.This appears on all inputs.I've replaced the bulb which didn't help. Any ideas ? P.S. These lines are ver fine and narrow |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 15 Registered: May-07 | Alan, It's a very common problem amongst HLP series Samsungs. Most likely the digital board is going bad. Sorry to tell you about the bad news but, you will probably begin to see an increase in the lines and more frequently after time. I think the part number is BP96-00678A for your tv. This is just a guess, and I recommend you have a technician look at the TV before purchasing any parts. You also might want to try contacting Samsung to see if you can purchase and extended warranty or if they can have a tech sent out to diagnose the problem. You might want to look around for a used part online. |
|
New member Username: JcmnyuPost Number: 1 Registered: May-07 | I have a HLR5067 which I bought in September 2005. Two nights ago everything was working fine. Last night, I tried to turn on the PS3 which is hooked up through the HDMI slot. The PS3 is new, about 1 week old. I got a "weak signal" message on the screen. The signal from my DirecTV HDTV box via Component cable worked fine as did my TiVo via S-Video. I pulled out another HDMI cord and tried that with the same result. I then attached the RCA cables and they didn't work either on any of the 3 AV slots from the TiVo or the PS3. Both Component options and all 3 S-Video options work. None of the RCA Video or the HDMI option works from any source. So, it is clearly the TV. Last night I ran though hundreds of posts on this and other boards with nothing quite matching my issue. Today I called Samsung and I was run through basic troubleshooting (cycle power, unplug all cables) and no change. They referred me to a local service center. I called them and they immediately ID'd the Digital Board as the culprit. $451 plus 150 for labor. I was stunned. They recommended I call back Samsung and complain. I did. A very nice rep walked me through the process of running it up the flagpole. He said there is a good chance Samsung will do something. A few questions: 1. Anyone seen this issue before? 2. If the board is bad, why do Component and S-Video still work? 3. If they agree to send me the board, is it something I can install myself? I am a Network Admin who is familiar with gutting the insides of PCs (Motherboards, processors, etc). Thanks for any help you can offer. |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 17 Registered: May-07 | Alan, I've seen this issue before and the service center is right. The problem IS normally the Digital Board. We normally see that problem sourcing from the HDMI port being shorted out. It leads to an open circuit on the D-Board wich takes out a cluster of the inputs. The reason half of the ports work and the other half don't is because the inputs are separated by clusters. You should check to see if your DVI and PC IN ports are still functional. The D-Board is not too difficult to change if you can remember where all he cables and screws go. Here is a good picture of what you should expect inside your set:  |
|
New member Username: JcmnyuPost Number: 2 Registered: May-07 | Ovadoggvo, Thanks for the information. I don't have anything that uses DVI, and it's funny you mention it, but I don't think my PC IN port ever worked. I remember trying when I first got the TV and not being able to get it to work from my laptop. It wasn't important enough for me to get it fixed as I never really planned on using it, I was just testing out of curiosity. Hopefully the board was the problem for that too. My worry, and I don't know if it can be eliminated before hand, is that the new PS3 caused the issue. Is it possible the board was shorted out over the HDMI cable? Or is that sort of issue caused other ways? |
|
New member Username: EarthboarPost Number: 1 Registered: May-07 | Have Hln617w1x since June 2004. 3 lights came on in front. Changed lamp. Reinstalled 2x. No picture. Hear loud pulsing buzzing on lampside like fan trying to start? Auto shut off every 20 seconds. Any thoughts before calling Samsung?Thanks |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 19 Registered: May-07 | jmg, The problem you are describing sounds like your color wheel... Part number: BP96-00250A The color wheel is part of your lighting engine. Some times it gets worn out and causes buzzing noises, and at times it breaks due to buildup of dust not allowing it to spin properly. Samsungparts.com will sell you the part for around $100-$120... You might want to have an experienced technician change the part out. Good luck! |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 20 Registered: May-07 | John, It is very likely that the PS3 has caused this problem with your TV. It can also be caused by connecting and/or disconnecting the HDMI cable when the TV and PS3 were both on. Look on the forums for a way to do a factory reset on your TV.. The following site might also have some information: http://www.fixyourdlp.com Some times the TV will protect itself by shutting off the hdmi ports when this happens.. But normally it will be back to normal after a hard reset (unplug the tv for a few hours and then plug it back in)... if not, there might be a factory reset in the service menu of your TV. Let us know what happens! |
|
New member Username: CrasharoundWhitehorse, Yukon Canada Post Number: 1 Registered: May-07 | ovadoggvo or FYI, I have a 15 month old HL-R5064W(no warranty). After turning the tv on and its warmed up the picture is like new, but 5-10 seconds later it dims a bit, enough to notice on all picture modes(i use dynamic). Samsung won't help me as my warranty is over, even tho the tv might have 1000hrs maximum. I figure all I need is a new bulb and to do a cleaning with the back of the tv off. I just wanted to double check with someone that knows what they are talking about. Thanks in advance, cheers |
|
New member Username: EarthboarPost Number: 2 Registered: May-07 | Ovadoggvo thanks for the help. Bong2 had a similar situation. I'm gonna try the color wheel replacement myself. Already ordered. I'll let you know if I'm successful. jmg |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 28 Registered: May-07 | Adam, It does sound like it could be a bulb issue. The dimming is commonly caused by a worn out lamp. I know that you may have very few hours on the lamp but they do tend to go out early... specially if it's the big philips bulb. Do the lights in front of your TV blink when the picture dims? If you have it for 1 1/2 years... You might want to invest in a replacement bulb. Here is a link to the bulb only for your TV set: here Very cheap compared to other places.. $129 bulb will be your first diagnosis.. You will need a backup anyways so I wouldn't consider it a loss.. Make sure you hang on to your old one as a temporary backup for the future since it is still working. After a bulb replacement if you continue to have problems with the bulb, you may still be able to call samsung and have them come out and repair it under warranty. You just have to be very nice and explain to them that you paid a whole lot of money for the TV and that all your home electronics will be samsung if they fix your tv free of charge! Good luck.. Let us know what happens. I'm very curious. |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 29 Registered: May-07 | jmg, Good luck.. It shouldn't be too hard. I'm glad i could point you to the right direction! Let me know how it goes. |
|
Bronze Member Username: AsamizayCentreville, VA Usa Post Number: 18 Registered: Apr-06 | Hi, I purchased HLR-50 DLP last year with 4 years extended warranty from Best Buy. I had a problem with a big grey spot on the sceen. since it was still under the manufacturer's warranty I called Samsung to get it fixed. The tech came in and replaced the entire engine. Right after that the sound quality and picture quality both went down, the picture freezes and i see pixalation. After fighting w/ samsung for 8 months they finally going to replace it with a HLT-5075S. However, it looks like that i will lose my 4 years warranty with best buy because this is a different model. I m not sure what to do. Any suggestion? Thanks |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 33 Registered: May-07 | Assia, We deal with bestbuy and bestbuy extended warranties where I work often. We even service one of bestbuys return centers in southern california.. From my understanding is that you can call bestbuy and have them attempt to send a service center (like us) out to service your TV. If they can't fix the problem, Bestbuy will replace your TV with a new one from your local bestbuy store. My suggestion is that you call bestbuy and TELL them you want them to replace it and transfer your warranty over to your new set. Good luck! |
|
New member Username: CrasharoundWhitehorse, Yukon Canada Post Number: 2 Registered: May-07 | ovadoggvo, thanks for the response. No my front lights do not blink when the bulb dims, which kinda makes me wonder to be honest. i'll order a new bulb and take your advice on how to deal with samsung customer service if the new bulb does not change the dimness issue. The link you gave mentions a bulb adapter in order to use the smaller bulb, is the smaller bulb a longer lasting one? or better picture? I live way north, so I want to order the right things as shipping/returning is a major pain. As for having an extra bulb on hand you couldnt be more right..what!? no hockey?! haha, thanks man...i'll let ya know what shakes down when i order the new bulb or adapter/smaller bulb Adam |
|
New member Username: EarthboarPost Number: 3 Registered: May-07 | Ovadoggovo, Replaced the color wheel and lamp Everything works. WOOHOO! Thanks for the help. 2 hours-- Have an extra screw I can't place. Oh well ...Hey jangro.com also has detailed instructions with pictures for cw replacement bong2 directed me. jmg |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 34 Registered: May-07 | Adam, Yes.. The new bulb is more reliable with the retrofit adapter. I've been recommending it to everyone. Bulb reliability is very important if you don't have deep pockets. |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 35 Registered: May-07 | jmg, I'm glad my advise goes noticed! You should have many more hours left on your TV now... The two major problems are fixed! |
|
New member Username: MwasmerPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-07 | Josh Y you posted the following message: "I have a Samsung HL-S5087W HD DLP TV and about 3 days ago I noticed a transparent gray bar on the right side of the TV." I have the same problem and my warranty is now 2 months out of date on the tv. The bar does not go away no matter how long I leave the tv on or off. Anyone that can help please email or pm. Thank you. |
|
New member Username: PancamoPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-07 | I also have a 2006 hlr6168w with growing dark vertical line on the left side of the screen. |
|
New member Username: DandaylightPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-07 | I have a 2005 HLP5663WX that does the following, you turn it on and the entire unit will lock up, the only way to get it working again is to unplug it and then plug it back in. Well, that worked for a couple weeks, now it is locked up 100% of the time. It will no longer turn on or respond to inputs from the remote or on the unit itself. When it was working everything on the screen looked fine, no errors or crazy colors. Any assistance would be appreciated. Dan |
|
New member Username: WdematteoPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-07 | Samsung HLP5063 Heard a pop and then screen started flickering and changed back and forth from black & white to color. Turned off TV and when turned back on a whirring noise occurs from the back left side of the unit and the lamp light lights up on the button but no picture is present. After a few seconds the standby/temp light turns on and a cycle between those two modes continues with the whirring noise but no picture. Any ideas. |
|
New member Username: Bong2California Post Number: 3 Registered: Jan-07 | William, sounds like your color wheel went bad on you. I have the same TV model. Had the same problems. I changed the color wheel and replaced the lamp. The old lamp may still work, keep it as back-up. Look at this site before doing anything. http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/07/24/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/ different model, but it'll give you an idea what to look for |
|
New member Username: Fred123Arkansas Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-07 | Have a Samsung HLR5078. One-half of picture is completely black, the other half has a perfect picture with sound. Same for all inputs. The Digital board was replaced two weeks ago for another problem. (failed to recognize that any inputs were connected) So I suspect the reconditioned board is bad also. Have any of you had a similar problem |
|
New member Username: NetjunkyPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-07 | I have a Samsung HLN467. After anywhere from 1-60 minutes the picture freezes like a negative. Any ideas? |
|
New member Username: Fred123Arkansas Post Number: 2 Registered: Jul-07 | As a follow up to the post above, after a day of 1/2 of the picture black, it started working. After about another day, the dreaded light engine shadow appeared on the right side of the set. The repairman is picking it up tonight to replace the engine. That was probably the cause of the black 1/2 of the picture too. Fred123 |
|
New member Username: AepPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-07 | We bought a Samsung HLR4667W set about 2 years ago. For the last couple months, it's seems like it's been having trouble with the video sync. Currently, when we turn it on, it displays the no or weak signal message and we have to flip back and forth between two of the inputs until it will display some kind of picture. Once the picture comes in, it gets horizontal lines flickering through it and the whole image jumps up and down a bit for a minute or two. It's worse with the comcast box on component 1, but the xbox 360 on component 2 also takes a few tries to get to come in, and will flicker a bit once it does. The problem seems to be worse when more black is on the screen. We're also running the computer through the hdmi connection, and it doesn't flicker but will cut out suddenly, and sometimes doesn't come in at all. |
|
New member Username: DrgPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-07 | I have a Samsung HLR4266W that is about two years old. I connected my DVD player to the component inputs, and until a month ago, it worked fine. Then I began losing the video signal on an occasional basis. If I turned the DVD player off or the TV off, I was usually able to restore the signal. However, this degenerated to where I no longer receive any signal through the component jacks. I've tried both component input 1 and 2. The component cables (Monster) seem fine. I'm now using the RCA inputs, which work okay, though obviously the picture is inferior. When I click the source button on the remote, however, "Component 1" and "Component 2" still come up, even though nothing is connected to those jacks. I was under the impression that the television read a connection to the ports, and would automatically remove the "component " option from the source listings. I've tried to delete the component options using the menu, but to no avail. Any suggestions on why the component connections aren't working, or why they still apppear on the source menu? |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 42 Registered: May-07 | Ann, To me it seems like the problem is within your digital board. I recommend having a technician check it out. Also, try calling samsung to see if they will assist you with the repair. At times they will pay for the parts for repairing your set and will charge you for labor only. If you sweet talk them it might get them do help you out. As far as i know samsung stands behind their products better than any other leading manufacturer. The worst service trophy would go to RCA! They won't even assist you in getting a replacement lamp... And the lamps they do have they want $300-$400 for! Also, another good site to post regarding your flickering problem would be fixyourdlp.com/blog ... Lot's of good informaiton. As for those RCA owners who bought their TVs from Walmart.... try www.discount-merchant.com for your lamps if RCA won't sell them to you.. You can get them as low as $129 for the recomended Philips brand replacements. A good source for samsung and hitachi users as well. They have a phone number to call if you want to talk to someone and they seem to ship the same day. Hope this helps! |
|
New member Username: MonimoliEdmonton, Ab Canada Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-07 | Hi ... My HL-5064 Samsung Tv started having a shadow in the left side. I read other threads, and I would like to know where to find the Service Manual. I call a technician, as suggested by Samsung as it is a 18 month old tv- out of warranty- and he, over the phone, just said "it is the light engine, it costs $ 1400" I am very upset. I will appreciate any help. Thanks a lot. Monica |
|
New member Username: ApotheconPost Number: 2 Registered: May-07 | 3 year old Hlp5063W.Perfect until yesterday,then a "POP" and no picture or power.I replaced the lamp,although it looked fine.Now all I get is a single blinking lamp light,no other power or fans are going.Any ideas ? |
|
New member Username: Fred123Arkansas Post Number: 3 Registered: Jul-07 | I see people quoting the hours on their lamps. How do you access this information? |
|
New member Username: MrgaryRaleigh, NC Usa Post Number: 3 Registered: Dec-06 | To view time on lamp/TV - you must enter SERVICE MODE. With TV off - on remote hit Mute, 1, 8, 2, then power on - you will see the service menu. Scroll down to item 10 OPTION using the up/down arrows on your remote. On the OPTION panel you will see item 15 LAMP LIFE. Record your hours in a log - I check my every few months or so. WARNING 1. Don't use the left/right arrows as you will reset the lamp hours to zero, or on other items, you will change their value --- BAD NEWS!!!!!!!! WARNING 2 - Once you have viewed your hours - to get our of Service Mode - Power off the TV. I have been told that you MUST allow complete power off cycle (ie> fans shut off after cool down cycle). Do not turn the tv back on then until cycle is complete, or you may get stuck in SERVICE MODE. I have an HLP-5063W with 2330 hours on it - so far so good!!!! } |
|
New member Username: Streetrodder1956Orange, TX United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-07 | I just picked up a couple of bulbs BP96-00224J and the plugs were diffent than what was on my original BP96-00224E(P). My original plug is black and had two male prongs protruding the new plugs were brown and rectangular with no prongs. I changed the plugs over with no problems but would like to buy the correct replacements for the spare. Any Idea where I can buy them and the part number. I had 7351 hours on my original bulb and had to get the color wheel changed 2 years ago. Lucky me the insurance paid for it after Hurricane Rita. I tried calling Discount Merchant to get a replacement bulb but can't seem to get anyone to answer the phone. Are they still open? Thanks, Jerry in Texas |
|
New member Username: Fred123Arkansas Post Number: 4 Registered: Jul-07 | Gary: Must be a different code for my HLR 5078. The mute, 1,8,2 with the set off did not bring up the menu.Fred123 |
|
New member Username: Bradley_iLos Angeles, CA Post Number: 1 Registered: Sep-07 | Hi I have an HL-P6163W set and I'm having the exact same problem described below. Was there ever a solution found? Posted on Thursday, January 11, 2007 - 07:52 pm: "I have a HLP6163WX and over the last few months just above the power on disk in the center of the TV I am seeing what looks like a white reflection on the screen just above the button. The white streak is about the same width of the power button and goes up about 6 inches towards the center of the screen. It is very faint, but becomes more pronounced the longer the TV is on or if items shown are dark on that part of the screen. It is never so over powering that is all you see but if you are looking for it, it will drive you nuts. There are no other spots, problems or anything with the TV to speak of... just this comet looking streak coming up from the power button. Any help?" |
|
New member Username: Bradley_iLos Angeles, CA Post Number: 2 Registered: Sep-07 | I should supplement it with this information: The beam of light is most noticable when the area where the beam is visible is dark yet the area surrounding it is illuminated. Imagine for instance a scene with a cave opening in the center, and lit up rocks on the side, etc. It does NOT show up as prominently in scenes like... during credits or a black screen with some white text on it - in other words, where the light is focused seems to have an effect... If this doesn't really make any sense I will attempt to get some pictures of it if that would help out.. |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 59 Registered: May-07 | Guys... Sorry I haven't been online for a while.. I'm back to help some more!!! Ok.. Here we go.. Alan Sailer - The pop noise you heard was your color wheel breaking probably.. That happend due to dirt or dust making it woble and fall off the bearing. The TV will not turn on because the color wheel can not power on or spin giving the TV an error code. Take apart the back of your TV and check on your color wheel. Jerry B Robbins - Discount-Merchant.com are still in business and growing. The just drop their lamp prices to 109.99 to the public for original PHILIPS brand bulbs. Their phone lines are probably off the hook 24/7 because of that HUGE and sudden price drop. I recommend everyone to pick up a backup bulb at that price. We consistently order from them and even though their volume seems to have dramatically increased, we get our lamps just as fast as before! The next day! Bradley I. - The problem you are describing seems to be the light engine core. The center where the light passes through the 3 color glass filaments (R, G, B) .. What happens is when the TV gets too hot it starts to burn the tinting on the lass filaments, leaving a mark.. Once the tinting on the glass weakend it burns faster and easier. Repairing that would be difficult but the parts are not available.. This is a level 3 repair by a trained technician. Your local repair shop would not be able to fix this problem either. They will end up ordering you a new engine. -Sorry about the bad news. There is another possibility for your TV's defect which would be the lighting tunnel made up of 4 strips of mirror is collapsing. This is also a part that is not available separately and would require a level 3 technician. I hope this information helps. |
|
New member Username: Streetrodder1956Orange, TX United States Post Number: 2 Registered: Aug-07 | Thanks ovadoggvo for the info but what about the question about the different plugs. Does anyone out there have a answer for me? Thanks. |
|
New member Username: Klum_bunkoPost Number: 2 Registered: Oct-07 | Hey, has anyone heard of this? I have a Samsung DLP and I haven't had any problems with it (after I got the one I bought instead of a broken one that was being sent in for warranty) It's a HL-S5687W. Looks wonderful. Here's the other shoe: It sticks in widescreen mode with Cool1 color settings. I can set it to regular TV or zoom1 etc, and I can change the colors to warm or movie or custom and they will stay for EXACTLY 1/2 hour and then the screen will blank and it resets back to good ole Cool1 and widescreen. I sent it in to our warranty folks who kept it for a week and said they couldn't see anything wrong (this is because I suspect they didn't even look at it) Got it back in 2 short weeks and still the same problem. Any ideas? |
|
Bronze Member Username: Kumar_shahNew York, NY United States Post Number: 15 Registered: Aug-06 | Have tried calling Discount Merchants a number of times, but no answer on any extension. Get a recording saying the mailbox is full and cannot accept any new messages. Wonder if they went out of business. |
|
New member Username: Fred123Arkansas Post Number: 6 Registered: Jul-07 | How Do You Calibrate An HLR5078? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- My Tech. replaced my LE in August without calibrating. Now color is off in dark scenes. He is to return to calibrate next week, but I am afraid he does not know how. I asked if he had a service manual, and he did not. This did nothing to help my confidence in him. I ordered a SM so I could bone up to keep him from screwing it up. Any advice before he comes would be appreciated.. Fred123 |
|
New member Username: GwbPost Number: 1 Registered: Oct-07 | I have had a HL-S4266W for a little over a year now. Recently, the screen developed faint horizontal black lines about three inches apart from top to bottom. The picture also appears grainy, similar to the sepia effect on a camcorder, but with color. I have digital cable and I have tried a different box, the DVD player, and even the Wiselink but the problem persists. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. |
|
New member Username: DaveshaferPoulsbo, WA USA Post Number: 5 Registered: Feb-06 | I have had a HLN507W for just over 4 years. My extended warranty just expired (Bummer). A month or so ago I started getting discrete steps in color like I was looking at a full color picture on an old 256 color monitor. It was most noticeable on faces and instances of subtle color changes. I was able to restore the picture to normal by switching from using the DVI input to using component input. Unfortunately, today I started getting the same thing on my component input also. (I checked, the DVI is still bad too). Based on what I have read here I suspect I have a bad digital board (DMD?). Any ideas... If the board is bad should I replace it or should I upgrade to a new 1080P? (...Might be hard to convince the wife on the upgrade idea). |
|
New member Username: MarcmakPost Number: 1 Registered: Oct-07 | Hey there, I bought a Samsung HLS 4667 MODEL, a refurb from tiger direct, its only 1 month old nothing wrong with it, but these posts have me a little concerned, i know i know its a refurb, so I went with the extended warrenty, Its an older model which delivers an awsome pic, the only thing that I have a problem with is the HDMI, it only has 1, so I am forced to get a switcher, of which I have no idea which is the best, without downgrading the pic. Anyone know of a brand??? Thanks in advance!!  |
|
New member Username: Amp_janitorLititz, PA USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Oct-07 | I had the 3 lights flashing on my HLP5674 and having the bulb replaced under warranty only back in January I knew what was up. The original bulb had 8000 hours on it and the replacement only had 2500 on it. I pulled the bulb out and plugged it back in and got it going again although the picture looks dimmer than it looked before but at least it is working. I ordered a new one from DM(the new smaller one with adapter to replace the BP9600224C bulb that was in)since my extended coverage only covers one bulb replacement. I got it on Wed and installed it but it actually looks dimmer than the one I pulled out. It never looks sunny out on the screen, always like an overcast day. My question is could I possibly have gotten a bad one or a defective one? Could there be something else wrong with the tv? I've seen something writen about the ballast but would this cause the bulb to be dim or just not on? The tv is still under warranty so if I got good information that the ballast is bad I'd call service for free replacement otherwise I'm going to have to buy a standard bulb to see if my DM bulb is defective. I'd hate for the tech to show up at the house and replace the bulb and it would work fine and I'd have to pay for it! Any info would help. Thanks. |
|
New member Username: DaveePhoenix, AZ Post Number: 2 Registered: Mar-07 | I have a HLN507W which has had some sort of overheating problem for about a year. It won't turn back on till it has cooled off for 6+ hours. I added a small fan in back to improve ventilation, which helped for awhile, but now when I turn it on the lamp standby light just flashes. The color wheel doesn't spin up, lamp doesn't come on. The set is several years out of warranty, any chance Samsung would help with a fix, or just I just try a replacement lamp? Thanks! |
|
New member Username: Streetrodder1956Orange, TX United States Post Number: 3 Registered: Aug-07 | Seems like a lot of questions and nobody with the answers. Is there anyone out there monitoring this site? It looks dead to me. I guess when your Samsung is singing and don't need help why bother. just my opinion |
|
New member Username: RickbgPost Number: 1 Registered: Nov-07 | I have a HLN4365wx/xac, I have a problem with squiggly black lines going across the screen when I use my RCA jacks. They disappear when I switch to component jacks. Is this a problem with my digital board? Thanks |
|
New member Username: A58strodPost Number: 3 Registered: Oct-07 | I have a HLN5065W and it's about 4 years old. It really didn't get used all that often. It had been about 2 weeks since I used to last and I went to turn it on and it wouldn't come on. I unplugged in and plugged it in and tried again and still nothing. When I hit the power button I hear a relay click, then the lamp like blinks twice, the relay clicks again and that's all I get. No chimes. After reading up on these things I ordered a new bulb and installed it and it still does the same thing. I was thinking of trying the ballast next but it's all a waste of money if I it doesn't work. What should I do? |
|
New member Username: Bmrtx78Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-07 | This is in response to Mark Wright's post above: The blanking screen every 30 minutes is a part of the "shop mode." I bought a floor model HL-T5076S and this was happening to me. Get into the service menu (I pressed mute-1-8-2-power on the remote,) find "Shop Mode" and turn it off. Or, find and activate "factory reset." When I did this, and turned the TV on again, I was prompted with a "plug and play" menu that did not show up the first time I powered the unit on. Apparently this is where the Shop vs Home option shows up. Good luck, and I hope this works for you. I still can't get rid of the faint white oval 1/3 to the right and 1/2 way down during dark scenes or with no video signal attached, but I'm not going to have a technician out for that. |
|
New member Username: Amp_janitorLititz, PA USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Oct-07 | I'd just like to give an update to my bulb problem from an earlier post. I contacted Discount-Merchant about my problem. I ended up talking to Ali and it seems that my tv was built in a period when Samsung was going to the 130W bulb but mine still used the 120W bulb and therefore has the 120W ballast. That is why the "smaller" 130W bulb was dimmer. He sent me the correct bulb which works fine and took care of the return postage for the wrong bulb. He also mentioned that the "mailbox full" message you get when callin D-M is pretty much their busy signal so you have to keep trying. |
|
New member Username: Kellyvista7Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-07 | Hi - Sorry to crosspost here, but this looks like a living thread about Samsung DLP issues. I have a 50" DLP Samsung TV (model HL-P5063W). I have had the usual color wheel issue, which I got fixed last year. However, this year, just in time for the holidays, a new issue has surfaced: one or more colors (I think it's just blue, though) seems to have failed. As a result, the colors are all out of whack -- things are greenish and pinkish, and I don't see any blue at all. I was tempted to replace the color wheel again, but I thought I'd ask here first, to see if anyone else has encountered this issue. In particular, wondering if replacing the lamp is a better route? Not sure what else to think about replacing/adjusting. Thanks, - K |
|
New member Username: DankMission Viejo,, CA Post Number: 6 Registered: Jan-05 | Kelly...I just started having the same problem this week. I have an HL-P4674W and when I first turn it on it looks fine, but after a while the colors start flashing pink and green and eventually they stay that way. It will reset itself if I turn the TV off, but it only lasts for a short time before it begins to happen again. I still have 1 year left on my Magnolia warranty and I've already called for service, but unfortunately the soonest they can come is next Thursday. Once they are here I can let you know what they tell me. |
|
New member Username: BpepersPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-07 | I have a HL-P5685W purchased a couple years ago and a week ago the kids heard a sound of breaking glass and the picture went out and it gave the error that the lamp was blown. I opened it up and it was blown and had even sprayed some hot glass around and had shattered a bit. I bought a replacement lamp and installed it and now I'm getting a check fan #3 message. I believe this is the fan that is below the lamp and it certainly isn't spinning when the TV is on. Since it was below the lamp when it blew I thought that maybe it got fried by hot glass but I took it out and hooked it up to a 12V power supply and it does actually spin. So now what? Since the fan is working when hooked up to power, it looks like the TV isn't sending power to the fan but why would it do that? There is a little circuit board which seems to hook up the fan, a temperature sensor in a hood above the fan, and the switch detecting whether the back panel is on or not and then it has a ribbon cable going down to some boxes below (haven't tried to take it apart to track it in there). Could this board be blown? I figured I could put the fan back in and run the power to it externally so that it is blowing and keeping the lamp cooled down but the TV seems to automatically shutdown after 30 seconds when its not detecting the RPM signal from the yellow wire to the fan. Any way I can either turn off this check in the TV or perhaps could fake a signal so that the TV knows the fan is running? Could I hook up the power externally to the fan but connect up the yellow wire to the circuit in the TV or is that going to blow something? I would like to ideally get the TV working again now with an externally powered fan and then start buying replacement parts for the fan and the circuit board and then see if they fix the problem but if anyone here has any suggestions, please let me know! |
|
New member Username: Kbbb1Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-07 | Hello, After the initial shock of no picture with some hissing noise, I ventured to open the back cover on my HL-P5085W - A 50" DLP, using since September 2004. The circular TV status screen shows ! Lamp, Thermometer and Fan symbols. The Thermometer and Fan symbols flash quickly and go away and the ! and Lamp stay on. I pulled out the Lamp, it seems the Lamp just burned out, there is a transparent shaft with thicker base. I clearly see there is an uneven whole in the thicker base and white ash like substance around the crooked whole edges. I tried to take the lamp pictures, but the reflection was too much from the mirror like lamp cone interior. Before this problem, for the last couple of days, I saw white light streaks at the top of the screen and would go away itself in a minute or two or change of channel, I was not sure what this was about. I never had any problems with colors or anything, hoping it is just the lamp went out the hissing noise is probably the lamp burning, not the color wheel. Any clear symptoms of color wheel problems? It is literally 10 minutes to pull out the lamp - I already ordered the lamp from http://www.samsungparts.com. The color wheel module is sitting right next to the Lamp. (See the blue and brown wires going into the rectangular block in the second picture). Both pictures are taken after I pulled out the Lamp, the second picture is a close up of color wheel module. Questions - What are the symptoms of the color wheel? Has anybody replaced color wheel in HL-P5085W model? |
|
New member Username: Bmrtx78Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-07 | I have the HLT-5076S as stated above. There are three HDMI inputs on the rear of the TV and one optical audio output. My home theatre receiver only has one optical input. I wanted to run HDMI from my satellite, HD-DVD, and Xbox 360, then pipe the audio out to the 5.1 through the fiber optic cable. However, I get no sound. The manual shows that sound output is only available through the other inputs, not the HDMI. This doesn't make any sense, as HDMI is touted as an all-in-one cable. Does anyone know if this is something that can be changed through software/firmware updates? Perhaps in the service menu? It's a huge drawback, and I'm tired of having multiple sets of cables running all over the place. |
|
New member Username: Kbbb1Post Number: 2 Registered: Dec-07 | Update - I got the lamp, installed it in 5 minutes, it works like a charm - beautiful and brilliant colors - :-) I am glad I do not have to replace the color wheel. |
|
New member Username: DdonngntvPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-07 | I do have a problem with my HLS-5086WX keep turn on and off, lately the 2 light flashing (show the lamb light flashing) Isn't it time for lamb change ??? I check it is only have 2030h. This one over 1 yrs, with no extend service. Other HLS7178WX/XAA also have the same problem turn on and off. I did use Mute 1,8,2 to check by mistake, I think I hit the Factory reset, I only have 0h for service. Any problem with that Do I need to do any correction. Please advise. For this 71" still under 1 yrs. Thanks, DN. |
|
New member Username: TphanichSan Diego, CA US Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-07 | @d ngn Yeah i think you need a new lamp. I found a good place for lamps--discount-merchant.com. There's a link for you here for the lamp you need.http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-Lamp-Code-BP96-01472A-Replacement-DLP-L amp-p/samsung-bp96-01472a_lamp_oem.htm&Click=1632 |
|
New member Username: BpepersPost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-07 | Does anyone know what the ASSY CODE is compared to the PCB CODE in a Samsung service manual? I figured out that the board that is blown in my HL-P5685W is the analog board which amongst many other things supplies power to the cooling fan (and I can see that the part labeled BD151 is fried and its supplies the 12V power). The board in my TV has a label of BP41-00122A but that is no longer available from Samsung parts. The service manual lists two part numbers though. One is called the ASSY CODE and its BP94-02140B and that is available (and the other is the PCB CODE which matches the BP41-00122A I see on the board itself). So can I order the BP94-02140B item and is it the same thing? The two different numbers are confusing me and I don't want to spend $200 just to find out its the wrong part! |
|
New member Username: Ap514Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-07 | HELP Have HL-R6168W DLP. Screen turned red and green then went out. Leds said bad bulb. Changed bulb. NO HELP. Plug power in and get several whinning burst a few seconds apart. Lamp never lites up. after a few tries the led's show lamp replacement. but tv still tries to power on cycling with the whinning. Will not shut off have to pull plug. Suspect color wheel...Anyone have an idea on this one... |
|
New member Username: RtgrayPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-07 | Add another victim to the list. My 1 1/2 year old HL-S5086W is turning off without warning at frequent but random intervals. I don't often get much more than 30 minutes of viewing befire it starts to happen, but it can often happen within 5-10 minutes. As I am off warranty, the best that Samsung customer service could offer was to turn it off for 15 minutes and try again. I will try the service center route but do not hold out much hope given what I have read of others experiences. You'd think that with such a prevalent problem, Samsung would at least have an answer for the problem. |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 67 Registered: May-07 | Mark Wright: The problem to your 30 minute setting problem should be fixed if you enter Mute-1-8-2-Power on your remote.. Enter the service menu and do a factory reset. I beleive I had a customer with the same issue and the reset fixed the problem. Kumar: Discount Merchant hasn't gone out of business as far as I know. I just ordered lamps from them on friday.. They got them to me by Saturday. The rep told me that they have an extremely high call volume and their voicemails have been disabled. They were upgrading their phone system and I had problems getting in for a few days as well. I guess they are growing. They have a promo that's not on the website.. If you buy 2 lamps you get free shipping. I recommend asking them about that. |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 68 Registered: May-07 | Gary Biard: It seems like your grainy picture is a problem with the DMD board. Unfortunately I have no fix for it. Dave Shafer: Your DMD board is bad. Unfortunately it's expensive! I wish I could deliver good news but that is a common problem. I have discovered that almost ALL of the RCA Sceniums M50WH187 have the same problem. |
|
Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 69 Registered: May-07 | Eric Schueler: I'd try replacing the lamp. Discount-Merchant.com is where I get mine.. Cheap prices, excelent service. |
Main Forums
Today's Posts- Home Audio Forum
- Home Video Forum
- Home Theater Forum
- Car Audio Forum
- Accessories Forum
- All Forum Topics