Samsung HLN617W Won't Turn On
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New member Username: RtanttiPost Number: 2 Registered: Mar-08 | I already have the solution to the problem. Though I spent many hours trying to find the solution on the web and couldn't find one, or at least the correct one to my problem. My problem was that one night my HLN617W just shut off. The tv would not turn back on again. If I hit the power button the lamp light would blink a couple of times and then with a click it would power off again. I replaced the lamp which seems like the magic fix-all for this tv but that didn't work. I then called for an in-home diagnostic ($89.00). The guy told me it was a problem with my power board at would be about $600.00 to fix. They would have to pick up the tv and diagnose the problem with the power board, also claiming that the boards were no longer made and they would have to find and repair the failing component. I found the board at samsungparts.com (no longer made, my a**)and ordered it for $114.00. If you can add or remove a hard drive in your computer you can replace essentially any board in the tv. It is just a matter of undoing the screws, unplugging wires, and replacing the board. Today, I am expecting to receive my new power board so I pulled the old one out. It was kind of wedged in the slot and so I, stupidly, I'll get to why in a moment, drilled a couple of holes in the board, ran a wire through the holes, and yanked it out. I drilled through some solder on the board, thereby breaking it. Anyway, I still hadn't removed the connector from the power board to the ballast; on the power board it says "to ballast". So, I removed the connection and low and behold my problem stared me straight in the face. It was a blown fuse behind the connector to the ballast. Likely a $1.50 at radio shack or less. So, one lamp ($150) + diagnostic ($89.00) + new power board ($150), my total came to $389.00, when it could have been about a dollar fifty. But, I'm still happy. I'm going to need a new lamp at some point. So then my total is $289 as a cost to fix. Had I not destroyed my first board then I could have returned my new power board, but oh well. I'm happy that I didn't get suckered into having my tv shipped from my house for 10 days and pay $600.   |
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New member Username: TboldPost Number: 2 Registered: Mar-08 | Reino, Did the power board replacement work? Your TV problem sounds like the exact same as mine. My TV is the HLR5667W, however, and I checked the fuse and it looks good. Thanks |
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New member Username: RtanttiPost Number: 3 Registered: Mar-08 | It seems that the blown fuse was a symptom of another problem. When i got everything put back together again and tried to power on the tv the fuse on the main power board (where the power cord connects to) blew. I'm guessing that there is actually a problem with this board. Unfortunately, this doesn't seem to be available through samsungparts.com. Perhaps this is the board the technician who came to my home was referring to. I'm going to have to look into this further but will update this post as I get more info. |
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New member Username: RtanttiPost Number: 4 Registered: Mar-08 | So I had a guy from Sears come in to diagnose the tv. He says it is the ballast. I'm going to let them go ahead and replace it to see if that is in fact the problem. The thing I'm thinking is that the fuse is before the ballast in the whole power patch.... so can a component downstream blow an upstream fuse? We'll see. I'll keep posting. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 134 Registered: May-07 | Reino, A short in the ballast can cause the fuse to blow. The fuse on the HLN series DLPS is inteded for that purpose exactly... It prevents the power supply from sending voltage to a bad ballast and causing a power supply failure as well... When the fuse is blown, it's most likely due to a short in the ballast. When the fuse is not blown, the ballast may still be at fault (weak or loss of voltage not allowing the spark of the lamp).... Again guys... 3 Main failing components in the DLP/LCD Projection are: 1. Lamp 2. Ballast (also known as Lamp Driver) 3. Colorwheel The lamp and ballast go hand in hand and are both manufactured by "Philips Lighting" ... Philips ballast are used in 95% of Samsungs, Sony's, and Hitachi's DLPs... Therefor I always recommend an original Philips brand lamp. . . . Guide on replacing your ballast can be found at http://guides.fixyourdlp.com They also have a checklist of Symptops of a bad ballast.. The best troubleshooting is doen by just listening to your TV. |
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New member Username: RtanttiPost Number: 5 Registered: Mar-08 | ovadoggvo, you're absolutely right. It was the ballast. Go figure. The repair guy came by today to install the parts that had been shipped to our house about a week ago, though I refused to put them in myself... just in case. He put in a new ballast and replaced the color wheel as he said it was also going bad. Of course I wanted to let it go until it crashed but my wife wanted to get it done. Anyhow, I hope this post helps for anyone else who experiences the same problem. Plus I'm really happy that the second round I went through Sears service. They not only will be sure about the expertise of their technicians but also the technicians don't have to worry about their next paycheck. Lessons be learned..... |
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New member Username: 67bajaLas vegas, Nv Usa Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | I'm so glad you posted the above information! I have a HLN5065W with the same blown fuse. The set did the same click when trying to power it up. Time to order a ballast and a fuse. |
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New member Username: RtanttiPost Number: 6 Registered: Mar-08 | Cool, Sam. Please post the outcome once it is all taken care of. |
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New member Username: 67bajaLas vegas, Nv Usa Post Number: 2 Registered: Apr-08 | Replaced the ballast ($180) and the 6.3 amp fuse and Bingo! It works. |
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New member Username: RtanttiPost Number: 7 Registered: Mar-08 | Awesome Sam. That's good news. I'm glad it worked. |
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