Samsung HLN4365W takes FOREVER to start up
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New member Username: Aclark440Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-08 | Hi, My HLN4365W takes 10-15 minutes to display a picture. The whole time, the Lamp LED is blinking, and when the picture shows up, the light goes off. It also takes a long time to respond to remote control commands. I have a spare lamp that I'm about to replace, but I fear that I'm looking at a bigger issue. Any ideas? |
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Bronze Member Username: Sjones1Post Number: 31 Registered: May-07 | Aaron, It's the lamp....common problem....change lamp and get a replacement. |
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New member Username: Aclark440Post Number: 2 Registered: Feb-08 | Hey Steve, Thanks for the reply. I thought it was the lamp as well, but I replaced it and it's still doing the same thing. I'm thinking it's something else. I would suspect the ballast, but the lamp has no problems coming on ( it shines brightly through the back panel). |
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Bronze Member Username: Sjones1Post Number: 35 Registered: May-07 | Aaron, If the lamp shines bright, it's not going to be the ballast (since it's powering on the lamp fine). ARE YOU SURE YOU CHANGED IT WITH THE PROPER LAMP? Sometimes when you have the wrong type of lamp this can happen. Your particular TV model may have shipped originally with a BP96-00224A or BP96-00224C or BP96-00224D. These are three fundamentally different lamps and manufactures. While some may tell you that they are all the same, this is NOT true. The BP96-00224A was manufactured by Toshiba The BP96-00224B was manufactured by OSRAM The BP96-00224C was manufactured by Philips The BP96-00224D was manufactured by OSRAM The BP96-00224J was manufactured by Philips Which type of lamp was the original lamp in your TV? And now, what is the replacement lamp you put in there? It differently sounds like you're using the wrong lamp. Reply here or check a resource like FixYourDLP.com for an explanation: http://www.fixyourdlp.com/blog/?p=13 |
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New member Username: Aclark440Post Number: 3 Registered: Feb-08 | Lamp codes match up perfectly. Code on TV sticker: BP96-00224A Code on old lamp: BP96-00224A Code on new lamp: BP96-00224A I don't think it's the lamp. -Aaron |
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Bronze Member Username: Sjones1Post Number: 36 Registered: May-07 | Aaron, and inside the new lamp enclosure and the old lamp enclosure, you have TOSHIBA stamped on the lamps? What about the ballast? Is it a toshiba ballast or...? it's possible that the internals of your TV were changed throughout the years...you've got one of the oldest Samsung TVs fabricated ;) |
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New member Username: Aclark440Post Number: 4 Registered: Feb-08 | Hey Steve, Both lamps are toshiba bulbs. I haven't looked at the ballast, but it fires the the bulb up instantly, so I didn't think the ballast was the culprit. Also, once the picture does show up, the TV is very slow to respond to the remote. |
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Bronze Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 84 Registered: May-07 | Aaron, Please describe the problem in more detail. Are you saying that the TV turns on, but the pictures is black until 10-15 minutes in? If the tv turns off once the picture shows, how are you testing the remote functions? Is the TV staying on with the screen lit and a black picture? or is the TV shutting itself down? Also, when the power button is pressed, do you here a "click" noise (ballast triggering) immediately, or does the ballast trigger 10-15 minutes in? |
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New member Username: Aclark440Post Number: 5 Registered: Feb-08 | Ok, The ballast clicks immediatlely when I power on the TV. The lamp lights but there is no picture, just a black screen. A small amount of light is coming through the lens, and if I turn off all the lights, there is a faint glow cming from the screen. The TV does NOT power itself off. It will project this black screen for 13 minutes (I timed it) and then a picture will appear. Once the picture appears, everything is ok (except that it takes 5-10 seconds for the tv to respond to the remote. Also, the image is a bit tilted down to the right (very noticable when viewing sports tickers or anything with a straight line. Thanks for the replies, I hope this gives you guys a little more information. |
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Bronze Member Username: Sjones1Post Number: 37 Registered: May-07 | Aaron, Sounds like: 1) Bad DMD Board 2) Light Engine (LE) failure. As long as the lamp is lit, both ballast and lamp should be ok...those are ruled out. We also know that this is not a color wheel problem...that's ruled out. You're only left with a few components left in the TV. If doesn't sound like a power supply issue, as the TV is turning on, the ballast feeds the lamp, and the lamp is lit.... ...so it seems to be an issue with processing the video signal and light output from the lamp (as you mention nothing is coming out of the lens). lens=light engine=big,expensive problem. I'm generalizing because I don't think we can get into a component level troubleshooting over the Internet. It's possible that its something simple on the LE that has failed...but today's practice is to toss out the bad part and replace with a refurbished or new part  At this moment, I would suggest getting hold of a factory servicer to take a look at the set. Unless you've got a parts TV, this might be an expensive project |
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New member Username: Aclark440Post Number: 6 Registered: Feb-08 | Hey Steve, That's the exact same conclusion I had come to. I'm leaning away from the light engine being the problem simply because once the picture is there, it looks good. There is nothing wrong with the image. The DMD board, however, sounds like the culprit, and it would also explain the slow response time with the remote. I think I may just try to sell the TV for parts....anybody looking for a parts TV?? Thanks for all the input! This board is a great resource! |
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