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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2796 Registered: Jul-04 | You aren't the only one with the chapter problem. I saw a post on another site from someone that has sent his D-R4 to Toshiba twice under the warranty for the same problem, both times it was sent back still not working. I'd say you're out of luck on the chapters. I'll look through all the set up options and see if maybe there could be something set wrong. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 81 Registered: Mar-06 | I hit a VHS tape that my ancient VCR cannot handle. It is The Big Lebowski (PolyGram Filmed Entertainment 1998). It clearly has an additional layer of copy protection that my VCR does not filter out. I'm a little surprised to find this in a 1998 vintage tape, but that seems to be the case. There is no indication on the tape or box (or on the internet) that this tape could be newer than 1998, which is when the film came out, so this appears to be the true vintage of this tape. Further, since the film was released in 1998 (when DVD was coming into play or on the horizon), I doubt there was ever more than one issue of the VHS tape and thus there's likely no re-issue tape after 1998 which might have additional copy protection beyond that which was put on the 1998 tape. So it appears that using my ancient VCR as my only filter for VHS copy protection could have problems when I'm dealing with newer tapes. This gives me a little more incentive to upgrade my system or get a newer system so that I can do PC backup of DVDs. Most stuff issued on VHS tape circa the late '90's, including this film, have made (or will make) their way to DVD. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 82 Registered: Mar-06 | I've now used ~25 TY discs to copy VHS tapes and have not had a single problem. I'm yet to finalize any of them, but I certainly don't anticipate any problems there. Note that these discs seem to pretty consistently have 2 hours and 5 minutes recording capacity (125 minutes) at SP speed. So a movie that's just over 2 hours can be put on one disc. I've done a few movies that are ~2:20 long and I decided to record the entire movie at SP speed, which means I split it up onto two discs. I thus put the last ~20 minutes onto one of the discs that I'd already used but hadn't finalized yet. Which is why I haven't finalized any yet (well, not really -- I just haven't yet done it. I do have at least a couple that are full up and thus can be finalized). I think the better way -- and what I'll do now instead -- is to put the FIRST 20 minutes on the already-used disc (thus filling it up) and then the REST of the movie on one disc (~ 2 hours). That way, I won't have to get up to change the disc toward the end of the movie, but will do that at the beginning of the movie instead. That way, ya watch the first ~20 minutes, change the disc, then sit back and finish it without having to get up again or have it be interrupted at a critical point in the story (which hopefully has developed by then!). I also love my D-R4. It's very simple to use. One reason I haven't finalized is that I want to name the chapters, especially since I have two different things on some discs. A nice feature of the D-R4 when used as a player is the Easy Nav button. When you load a disc and then hit this button, it will display the titles with a screen shot of the opening sequence, which pretty much tells you what's on the disc unless you don't recognize the screen shot. My second (backup) D-R4 arrived yesterday but I haven't had a chance to give it a run-through yet. It has no remote, so I'll be using this remote with that one (hope it works!). This one has a February 2005 manufacture date (2 months older than my first one). So thanks much David for the recommendations on the D-R4 and the TY discs. Your experience and expertise has really been a big help for me. I always like to get the best bang for my buck but when it comes to consumer electronic stuff like this, I prefer to spend a bit more to get what I really want in terms of features and quality. Thus I usually research things to death before pulling the trigger. Your experience (and expertise) really simplified that process this time, and I'm very happy with both the recorder and the discs. Also the recommendation on Supermedia store! MUCH better than the other place I tried. My only regret is that I wish I had gotten another 100 paper sleeves from Supermedia with my order. They are really nice and I'm happy with them. And ya can't beat 'em for 4 bucks and free shipping! |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 31 Registered: May-06 | Tmax you can get a GoDVD CT2 on ebay for a pretty good price if you watch for one. I got mine for 29.00, no one else was bidding on it. Don't go with the Digital Video Stabilizers, others might seem to have luck with them but mine wouldnt work from the start and seller refuses to refund. the only thing its good for is a paperweight. I havent found anything that the GoDVD CT2 wont work on. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 32 Registered: May-06 | James, how many of those 800 tapes have you finished? I have been moving right along on mine. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 83 Registered: Mar-06 | Linda - Thanks for the head's up on that ebay CT-2 price AND the feedback on how well it's working for you. Given my current problem with circa 1998 tapes (did I mention that a couple of other tapes of that vintage also frustrated my ancient VCR?), I'm inclined to get the CT-2. If it works on DVD to DVD (as advertised) I have no problem copying DVDs the same as I'm copying VHS tapes. I work from home and am thus here a lot, so it's easy for me to just set it up and come back ~100 minutes later to finish it up. And then get another one going, etc. Then later I can get my PC situation set up to do ripping and burning. I'll go check out the CT-2 situation on the 'bay right now. Thanks again. |
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New member Username: TromiePost Number: 4 Registered: Jun-06 | ok, so i hooked up my vcr through my beta machine and i'm not really sure if it worked or not. some vhs will record and others get the pop up "this program can not be recorded" and absolutely no dvds will record so i dont really know what to think. my setup is thus: cabel to vcr/dvd combo ( i also tried just a vcr but same thing) to beta to dvd recorder to rf modulator to tv. i hooked them up with audio video cables and coaxel seperately and then togeather the vcr is playing on ch 3 and line 2 so i dont know why it wont really work. if anyone has any info it would be much appreciated if not i'm off to ebay to get me a godvd. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 49 Registered: May-06 | LThompson, now that the newness has worn off, I'm slowing down. I'm not keeping count, but I guess I have done about 20 or so. Got a lot of other stuff going on. New job, company from Oklahoma, 4th coming up this weekend, etc. Thanks for asking. I'll get back in the groove soon. |
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New member Username: JastmePost Number: 8 Registered: Jun-06 | I want to thank you for all your help, David, TMax, and James. I bought the ct-2 and hooked it up with my vcr and combo unit, works great. I have copied 6 movies so far, then ran into a snag. I can not copy disney movies. They won't even play thru the vcr with this configuration. They will play on the combo unit. Any ideas on what needs to be changed? Has anyone been able to copy disney movies? I have a lot of disney movies and is my main reason for copying to dvd, so kids can watch them, I run a daycare. Thanks again JoAnne |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 33 Registered: May-06 | James I am like you now that I have conquered the challenge I have slowed down. But its still all set up and waiting. I think I am going to number all my cords and mark where they connect to if and when I disconnect. J.H. and Tmax there are some pretty good prices on the GoDVD CT2 right now on ebay. JH that is the only way I could get the VHS to DVD to work. JoAnne I had one tape that wouldnt copy and I for some reason changed the Input and it copied. I cant expalin why, but wouldnt hurt to try that. I am sure you know how to do that, I didnt at the start David helped me out with that one. On your remote there is a button that will say Input. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2807 Registered: Jul-04 | TMax, you should be letting the DVD recorder cool down between movies. They tend to run hot, letting it cool down will prolong the life of the recorder. Don't have anything under or on top of it either, it will get hotter. JoAnne, I did The Parent Trap without any problems. That's the only one I've done that I can think of. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 84 Registered: Mar-06 | David - Thanks again. I was already shutting things down after a couple of movies because you've mentioned this heat issue before. But now I'll stop after each one and let things cool down a bit. I'm in no rush. I do have the D-R4 on top of the Akai and I will move it and make sure it stays as cool as possible. The Akai does get warm and if I do a couple of tapes or more, they come out of it pretty warm to the touch. So some significant heat is indeed there and undoubtedly making the D-R4 warmer than otherwise. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 85 Registered: Mar-06 | Snooping around ebay for a CT-2 I see quite a few CT-200's and also a CT-2A. Do I want the 200 and what's the 2A? I assume that the 2A is some upgraded or updated version? I'll go google it now, but if anybody knows, thanks for the help. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 34 Registered: May-06 | Tmax, Mine is a GoDVD CT200, I wondered what the difference is between the CT2 and the CT200, but mine works fine. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 86 Registered: Mar-06 | Thanks Linda. I found it out pretty quickly. Gotta luv Google, no? Check out this link when it comes back up (they appear to be having technical difficulties at the moment - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=572093 If you read that thread I think you'll find that the the 200 is an updated version with 2 more video settings and an auto off feature. The latter was undoubtedly incorporated to address the overheating problem the CT-2 pretty cleary has. Thus the need to shut it off when not using it. It's not clear to me that the 200 is better than the 2 in terms of video quality, so I suppose I'll end up with whichever one I get first at the best price on da 'Bay. |
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New member Username: JastmePost Number: 9 Registered: Jun-06 | Thanks Linda for the suggestion, but the input button doesn't seem to do anything on my external vcr and the combo unit does switch between vhs, dvd, in1 and in2. I use in2 which is the front input jacks on combo unit to record all other tapes but can't even play a disney tape using the external vcr. All other tapes play and will record from the ext vcr to dvd on the combo unit. Any one have any ideas? The disney tape will play through the combo unit but can't copy to dvd that way. I have only 4 more tapes to record to dvd, then I will be down to the disney tapes only and then I will try changing the input to IN1 which would require changing to the rear av inputs. Worth a shot I guess but not till I have all the others copied. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I have about 30 disney tapes I would like to copy. By the way TMax, I bought the ct2 on ebay and it works great with all the tapes I've copied so far. Every one is as good if not a better quality than the original vhs tape. I set to copy on LP 4 hours per dvd since most of my vhs tapes are longer than 2 hours and I don't want to use 2 dvds per movie, this lets me put 2 tapes on one dvd sometimes. Still is great video quality. JoAnne |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 87 Registered: Mar-06 | As per my post last week, my 2nd (backup) D-R4 arrived a week ago yesterday. I finally got around to giving it a test drive and wanted to note some things about it - 1) It works fine (phew) and I did one disc with it today, again with 10 min. chapters. So no problem there. This recorder came with no remote but the remote for the first one operates it in all respects (the manual points this all out). There was nothing to do to get it to work with this recorder, but if you want to use one remote with two recorders that are plugged in and located in the same area, you need to define them as #1 and #2 (see the manual). Otherwise, they will both respond to the remote commands! I don't plan on using this one other than as a backup or perhaps in some other location, so I don't need to worry about that. So if you see one of these on ebay with no remote, and you are looking for a backup machine, go get it. I got this one for a great price and I think it was because there was no remote and no manuals -- all of which I already had since they came with my first one. 2) This recorder accepts and plays un-finalized discs which were recorded in the other (1st) machine! I still haven't finalized any discs yet, so I don't know if I could finalize those discs in this recorder, but I suspect that I could. Anyway, I was a bit surprised that this recorder accepted those discs as if they had been recorded in this machine, which it seems to have done. I do note that the manufacture dates of the two machines are April 2005 and February 2005 (for the 2nd one). So they are fairly contemporaneous, if that means anything. TY discs are still working great with NO problems. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2817 Registered: Jul-04 | I have a 2nd D-R4 that I use in the bedroom. I play unfinalized discs from the main one sometimes, I also use it to format and finalize discs sometimes. As long as the recorders are the same model number, discs are interchangable. I have to keep the one in the bedroom on code 2 because I use remote extenders to operate the stuff in the living room. I use universal remotes for everything, I have way too much stuff to use the original remotes. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 88 Registered: Mar-06 | Ya, I figured that if the remote for the 1st D-R4 didn't operate the 2nd one (which I was confident wouldn't be the case) then I could most probably operate it with a universal job. The remote for my ancient Akai VCR broke years ago and I could never find a universal remote that would operate it. It's kind of an obscure VCR. Then last summer I got an RCA remote for a buck at a garage sale -- the same one that comes with Direct TV systems (or used to) and which I've also seen sold in a lot of stores. The thing was basically brand new in the original packaging (don't know why they were getting rid of it) and son of a gun if it doesn't operate the Akai!! I thought I'd never find a remote that would operate that thing, but this does. I bet it would work on the D-R4 but I won't mess around unless I have to. I'm still trolling the 'Bay for a CT-2 or 200 (looking to steal one) and once I get that and then upgrade my PC situation, I'll be sitting pretty and needing to get some more TY discs. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2819 Registered: Jul-04 | I doubt the RCA will operate the Toshiba. I had to get my One For All upgaded to operate it. They still aren't putting DVD recorder codes in universal remotes. I don't know why, they've been around since 2001. Some recorders use the same code as the company's DVD players, Toshiba isn't one of them. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 50 Registered: May-06 | It looks like this thread has about played itself out. I just want everyone here to know that the help I have received here has been invaluable. I never realized this kind of insight and expertize was available for free. It sure beats the heck out of the so-called technical help lines. I don't mean to slight anyone on this thread, but I want to especially thank David Massey & TMax for the research they have done on, not only on my behalf, but for everyone they have helped here on this site. My VHS>DVD transfers are doing very well. I have now completed a little over 100 of my 800+ library. I don't know what I'm going to do with all the extra storage space I have now by replacing by VHS collection with DVD's, but I'm sure I will find something to put there. Maybe more DVD's. Anyway, I am going to take this shortcut icon off my desktop now, but I will leave it in my favorites and check back avery month or so to see if anyone has added anything else that I may have missed out on. Maybe I will just say "HI" from time to time. Thanks again, from the Mile High City of Denver, Colorado, I wish you all well. Jim |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 89 Registered: Mar-06 | Hey Jim - Thanks for all the nice comments and the good info from you as well. I finally scored a CT-200 on ebay yesterday and am anxiously awaiting its arrival. I was also after a Sima SCC-2 which went quite high but looked good for awhile. I read a review on Amazon dot com that said it worked better than the CT-2 because there were no "streaks" with the SCC-2. I assume he was referring to the occasional streaks you get from a VHS tape. Perhaps the SCC-2 can eliminate those streaks? Anyway, assuming the CT-200 functions properly I'm all set until I upgrade my PC situation and beging to rip and burn. This site has been very very helpful to me as well and I truly appreciate David's recommendations on which recorder and discs to get. I'm very happy with the D-R4 and the TY discs and it's always nice to be able to feed off someone else's knowledge and experience. You and others have also been helpful with your feedback about your CT-2's. BTW, if you go to the Sima site, the owners manual for some of their products are available in pdf file. I'm not getting a manual with my open box CT-200 but that's okay since I can print it out there. http://www.simaproducts.com/ Also note that the CT-2 is no longer shown as a product at the Sima site; just the CT-200 and CT-100. The SCC-2 is still shown as a current product. There are still a ton of CT-2's available on ebay but it looks as though the CT-200 has replaced it. Take care. Hope to hear from you again. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 52 Registered: May-06 | TMax, thanks for the kudo's as well. I'll visit from time-to-time. Jim |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 53 Registered: May-06 | Looks like I'm back already. I should have checked my DVD's 100% before going on and transfering so many VHS tapes. I have checked 7 movies so far and 5 of the 7 have instances where the playback pauses for 1 to 5 seconds at random. Also, each one doesn't have the problem until after the first hour of playback. Usually, it starts at about 1:10 to 1:20 into the movie. What's wrong? |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 35 Registered: May-06 | James if you remember I was having a problem with my recorder just stopping an hour or so into the copy process so now I put a small table top fan next to the DVD recorder to keep it cool and I dont record but one movie every few hours or one each night, so far so good. I also cleaned my VCR heads. Something helped Linda |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 54 Registered: May-06 | Thanks L for the tip, but my recorder stopping isn't my problem. It is the playback of the DVD that is a problem, but only occasionaly. And it only happens during the last half of the recording. The playback acts like the blank has dirt or a scratch or the recorder laser lense is dirty. The playback just hesitates for an instant. But I inspect each blank and I clean the recorder laser lense about every 10 hours of recording. Do you think that possibly an overheated recorder could cause that problem as well? I do have a fan positioned to cool the entire back side of my recording equipment, but I may be recording too long. I'll try recording just one movie and letting the equipment cool off. Thanks again for the tip. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 36 Registered: May-06 | James, David has said several times not to record back to back because of the DVD getting hot. He would be better to explain that one. I know even if I am recording on weekends when I am there all day I wait an hour or so between movies. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2839 Registered: Jul-04 | Skipping/pausing is usually poor quality media. I've seen 1 small bad spot in the dozens of discs I've watched from the Toshiba. This is why I use Taiyo Yuden discs, it's not worth saving a few pennies on cheaper discs. Problem discs always get worse towards the outside of the disc for some reason. As long as you don't have anything under or on top of the recorder, and only do 1 movie at a time, it shouldn't over heat. Don't use that lens cleaner more than you have to, it can do more damage than good. I've got a first generation recorder from 2001 that has seen heavy use, the lens has never been cleaned, it still works fine. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 90 Registered: Mar-06 | So James, if I understand you correctly, it's the DVD copy you made that's pausing? I think that's what I get from re-reading your posts. I'm more concerned with the ORIGINAL DVD pausing or freezing when I try to copy it (using the CT-200 when it gets here). I assume that would give me the same problem in my DVD copy (and I don't want that). The only way to be sure is to watch the entire DVD to see that it plays "clear" all the way through. And even that doesn't guarantee anything since I've had DVD's that sometimes pause or freeze here or there, then don't do it the next time. I'm talking about rental DVD's, so they may have had some hard use. I've found that even an "iffy" disc will play with no problem in a different player. I now have 4 players: the two D-R4's, an older Toshiba player and a new Cyberhome. The older Toshiba is very sensitive to iffy discs and the Cyberhome seems to play everything with no problem. The only thing I can think of with your problem is that your VHS player / tape gave some sort of signal to the recorder (a bad spot in the tape, etc.) which had an effect on the recording. Also, what discs are you talking about? I haven't played hardly any of my TY copies yet, but the ones I've played have been completely fine and I don't expect any problems. And some of the tapes I copied were pretty "iffy" in spots. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 55 Registered: May-06 | Thanks for all the input, everyone. The media could be part of the problem, I'm using up my TDK blanks, I still have about 100. But I think my real problem is a combination of several things, recording more than one movie before shutting down to cool off, etc. Even though I have plenty of air circulation around the recorder, the disks are always very warm when I take them out of the recorder. I have the Toshiba recorder on top of the VCR, so I guess I'd better seperate them. The lense cleaning issue surprised me. I thought the more it gets cleaned, the better. Thanks for the tip. I guess I will just have to slow down and take my time transfering all those VHS tapes. |
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New member Username: RexbarrettaolcomOlive Branch, Ms USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | Please, please help!!! I attempted to copy a VHS tape to a DVD using our "new" Panasonic DVD player. Either in setting it up or trying to copy, I did something stupid and now my "precious" VHS tape with my deceased Mother and her deceased siblings are GONE!. It was a blank DVD, so how could something record over my VHS? Does anybody know anyone that might recover images from my VHS? Please, I'll pay whatever my c/c will take. Thanks, Bobbie |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 91 Registered: Mar-06 | The only way I can figure that you could have erased your VHS tape is if you hit "record" on your VCR. And you wouldn't even be able to do that if the protective tab has been removed. Has it? You might just THINK the tape's been erased because you've got things hooked up wrong and aren't seeing anything on your TV. Try hooking it back up with just the VCR and TV -- as you would normally do if you were going to watch a tape. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2854 Registered: Jul-04 | Shop4Tech has 10% off everything again. The coupon code is blu10 it's good through July 26. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 56 Registered: May-06 | Help! I've transfered several copy protected VHS to DVD, including Disney movies. Now, suddenly, I can't copy "Powder" or "Pirates of the Caribbean". They are both purchased copies from Blockbuster. Could that have anything to do with not being able to copy? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2857 Registered: Jul-04 | I can't imagine Powder has any special copy protection being a 1995 movie. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 57 Registered: May-06 | I can't either. Seems somebody in this thread mentioned once that Blockbuster has their own system for copy protection, but I can't find it. I have no idea how they would embed it. I recorded "Rose Red" and it is a 2002 movie. Any suggestions? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2858 Registered: Jul-04 | BB wouldn't have any special copy protection. They just buy tapes from studios. If tapes are in poor condition the recorder can think it's copy protected even if it's not. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 58 Registered: May-06 | If a tape in poor condition is the case, do you have any idea why my stabilizer doesn't handle it? It seems that these two movies are the only two (so far) that I am unable to copy. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2864 Registered: Jul-04 | A weak signal can make the recorder think the tape is protected. If that's the problem, the stabilizer won't make any difference. It can happen with unprotected home recordings too. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 92 Registered: Mar-06 | Hi Everyone - Just thought I'd report on my Sima CT-200 and also input at bit on James' current problem. I previously posted on what the differences might be between the CT-2 and the CT-200. My ebay 200 arrived yesterday and seems to work fine. I'm recording The Big Lebowski (2005 Collectors Ed. DVD) right now. No indication of any problem so far, and since this is the 2005 DVD, it should be pretty well protected. I note that the CT-200 has no battery option. Looks to me like you have to have the power supply to use it. The power supply is 7.5 volts, 500 mA, with the positive lead in the center. It doesn't say "Sima" on it, so it looks like Sima just got them from an outside supplier. I presume any suitable power supply would work with it. I note that the instructions (available online -- I didn't get any with the unit) say to press record first, then press play on the player. I think that's not the best way to do it, and that the better approach is the other way around. That kinda ties in with James' problem (maybe) because, as David says, any "extraneous" signal from the player can be interpreted by the recorder as a copyright signal. Thus David is probably correct and James' problem is simply due to a "bad" tape which is putting out an extraneous signal. So too when you press "play", the player can put out an extraneous signal as it cycles into "play." I think it better (and I think I've read it somewhere too) to get the tape or DVD playing first, then hit "record" on the recorder. That way, the recorder is receiving a more "stable" signal. Another interesting thing about the CT-200 is that the manual says that you can make an NTSC recording from a PAL source. It actually says that it "converts NTSC to PAL and PAL to NTSC video formats." I have some PAL discs that I might try converting to NTSC. I play them in my Cyberhome player, which is why I bought the thing for 40 bucks new (after rebate). So I might just copy my discs to NTSC, if this really works, and then sell the originals on ebay and recoup my costs. The manual notes that the CT-200 automatically detects whether the input is NTSC or PAL, but you have to select the output (either NTSC or PAL). So it does seem that it will do what it claims to do. The manual also notes that regardless of which input you choose (composite or S-video), both of those outputs are actively putting the signal out. That's about it. Pretty simple unit. I hope it works for a good long time. I haven't fiddled with the enhancement modes yet, but I'll play around with those at some point. You can apparently switch between the various modes and see the effect onscreen, which seems pretty cool. Well, I hear the thunderstorms off in the distance for the first time today. Looks like starting this recording now wasn't such a good idea. I hope I get it done before a storm blows through. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2867 Registered: Jul-04 | Your Cyberhome player converts PAL to NTSC on the fly, in other words, the output is already NTSC. If it output a PAL signal, it wouldn't be compatible with your TV. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 93 Registered: Mar-06 | Ya, that's true. Otherwise, I wouldn't be able to watch the discs on my NTSC TV, as you say. But if I convert them to NTSC, then I can play those copies in any other (NTSC) player, and thus not be locked into using the Cyberhome to play them. Plus it's always nice to have a backup, just in case. The Big Lebowski copy is done. No thunderstorm problem and the copy looks great. I made this copy using one of my D-R4's as the player and the other as the recorder. The only tricky part was that I had to use the buttons on the front of the machines, instead of the remote, whenever they were both turned on. Otherwise, they would both have responded to the remote. Thus I started the player going, then hit the "record" button on the recorder machine rather than using the remote. Worked out fine. I could use the remote with both machines turned on IF I had designated one as #1 and the other as #2 (programmed the remote that way), but I'm not bothering with that at the moment. This CT-200 seems to be pretty cool. I got it for a pretty nice price and it seems to be an open box item with little or nor prior use. I occasionally see them on ebay without the power supply, so I'll keep my eyes peeled for a really good deal on one of those so's I can have a backup. |
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New member Username: Neo64Bluffton, IN Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | TMax or David I'm new to this forum and new to video. I am fairly tecnically savvy (build my own computers, have some experience running large soundbaords, etc,), but this video thing is a wild ride. There seems to be no real standards out there. To my question - I have a Sony RDR VX500. I, too am looking to copy my store bought VHS movies to DVD and the copy protection is the problem. I saw in a post you made about mid June that there might be a way to use the VHS side of my unit as the source and the DVD as destination. I'm really interested in that. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, the drive unit in my Sony is a 1X-8X drive and basically wont record any discs that have a higher rating, even if the range on the discs is 1x-8X or 1X-16X. I can make it work with 1X-4X or lower only. I have come across several sites with instructions on replacing the drive with a faster (16X) drive with no problems. A Toshiba SD-R5372 16x has apparently been used without problems. Any thoughts? The native drive is a NEC ND 2500A, by the way. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2872 Registered: Jul-04 | You'll need an external VCR and stabilizer with a combo. There's no need to use 16x discs when a standalone records in real time anyway. If it won't work with 8x discs, it's probably the discs. I've never seen a standalone that won't burn 8x Taiyo Yuden discs, but it's possible. I don't know who makes that, probably Samsung, not exactly known for quality. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 94 Registered: Mar-06 | "I saw in a post you made about mid June that there might be a way to use the VHS side of my unit as the source and the DVD as destination. I'm really interested in that. Any help would be greatly appreciated." David S. - I don't know if that was my comment or David's that you're referring to. In any event, I agree with David's comments to you except to say that if (IF) your combo has separate "out" jacks for your VCR portion, then you MIGHT be able to use it (together with a stabilizer) as the source deck. You'd just run the VCR video "out" thru the stabilizer and then to the DVD "in." The audio cables would go from the VCR "out" directly to the DVD "in." This would only work if you can operate both sides of your combo at one time; that is, you can play a tape AND record a DVD at the same time. I presume your owner's manual would cover this. Otherwise, you have to use a separate VCR, as David says. And you will have to use a stabilizer to copy any commercial tapes circa 1998 or later. I'm sure there are some exceptions, but that's a good rule of thumb. With older commercial tapes (say pre-1992 or so) you might be able to get by with an "ancient VCR." But assuming you have some newer tapes to copy, you're gonna need a stabilizer anyway. I did, even tho' I have an ancient VCR that works just fine on older tapes. I went with the Sima CT-200, which is just a newer version of the CT-2. I can thus recommend either of those. They can be had on ebay for a nice price, particularly if you're patient. The Red Pro supposedly works as well, but I can't vouch for it. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 95 Registered: Mar-06 | James, back to your Blockbuster tape(s) problem - I just noted my June 19, 2006 post above where I said to Linda - "Linda, the problem may be your VCR. My Toshiba D-R4 manual notes that it may be sensitive to any disruption in regard to the VCR -- including bad spots in the tape -- and may interpret those signals as copy protection signals and act accordingly." That might have something to do with your problems. David has already noted this in his post to you, but now I see that the D-R4 manual actually mentions it as well. It's another reason why I think it's better to start the tape going before you start the recording rather than the other way around. If you start the recording first, then the start-up of the VCR (hitting "play") could send an unwanted signal to your recorder. If the playback is already under way, then you can't have that particular problem. Once the tape is playing, only a bad spot in the tape (if there is one) could cause a bad signal. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 60 Registered: May-06 | T - I think the last sentence of your last paragraph above hits the nail on the head. I have always started the vhs tape first anyway, just a thing I do. The only tapes I have had problem with are the BB tapes, so, I think I am getting a weird signal off of them. Everthing else transfers fine. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2875 Registered: Jul-04 | Those BB tapes have probably been played many times and have a weaker signal than tapes that haven't seen the heavy use those probably have. I don't think it's any special copy protection, I think it's a weak signal. Try recording near the end of the tapes and see what happens. The first part of a VHS tape is always the worst when it comes to wear. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 37 Registered: May-06 | Hi guys, I got to jump in with a thought that I had. James try coping the VHS tape to another VHS tape. It might not be as good but I bet it would be fine. Then Copy the VHS copy to DVD. Just one of my "out there" thoughts. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 61 Registered: May-06 | Thanks L, for the thought. I tried that. The VHS>VHS worked fine. The VHS copy>DVD didn't. I still get the copy protected message. And David, I FF the VHS tape to 1:15 into the movie (Powder)and tried to copy. That didn't work either. This one really has me stumped. I got the DVD from Netflix and copied it, the only thing I don't like there is that the VHS is Full Screen and I can only get Wide Screen on DVD from Netflix. Looks like I am going to have to break down and get a BIG Screen TV. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2880 Registered: Jul-04 | I can't stand widescreen either. Use the zoom on the Toshiba. The D-R4 has a great zoom, far better than the player I use. The Toshiba zooms a little at a time, so you can get it just right. My player's zoom is only good on the first step, anything past that it loses way too much picture top to bottom. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 62 Registered: May-06 | David, I went to the setup menu and made sure the aspect ratio was set on normal I still get the widescreen bars (letterbox) on the top and the bottom. What am I doing wrong? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2884 Registered: Jul-04 | If the movie is widescreen, you'll get black bars on a 4:3 TV, you have to use zoom. While the disc is playing, press zoom on the remote, it's right above the channel up/down, then press the star button, the light blue one above skip forward, repeatedly until the black bars are gone. I zoom 16:9 movies until the bars are completely gone, 2.35:1 movies, the ones that only use half the TV screen, I zoom until the bars are a little smaller than on 16:9 movies. If you zoom a 2.35:1 movie until the bars are gone, you'll miss too much of the movie. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 96 Registered: Mar-06 | Anybody know if I can copy a CD to DVD using my D-R4's? I realize this would be real time copying (just like copying a VHS tape or a DVD using a stabilizer), but can it even be done? David? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2885 Registered: Jul-04 | Yes, you can copy a CD to DVD. But I don't think the Toshiba does uncompressed audio. Some recorders will record uncompressed LPCM audio in XP mode, I think the Toshiba only does compressed dolby digital audio. Just connect the CD player to the Toshiba. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 97 Registered: Mar-06 | Thanks David. How about if I use one of my D-R4's as the CD player and the other as the (DVD) recorder? I'm pretty sure the D-R4's will play CD's (and I'm sure the manual covers it if I weren't too lazy to look) so it would seem that maybe the recorder D-R4 should record the audio coming out of the other D-R4. Although certainly it may not. And I CAN always just use my CD player to play the CD (and hook it to the D-R4, as you say). Just wondering. It's kind of a stupid thing to do, particularly since I DO have a CD burner (but I've never yet installed it in my 'puter), but I might just do it if it can be done because I could at least then play the copy in one of my DVD players, using it, in effect, as a CD player. I have all this stuff hooked to my stereo anyway, so it's all stereo whether it's a DVD or a CD. It would just allow me to copy a few CD's so's I could listen to my own copies via one of my DVD players here in the house. And for a quarter ($.25) for the blank TY DVD, it ain't a bad price. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 98 Registered: Mar-06 | Oops -- I forgot to thank you for the tip on zooming to "get around" widescreen. I also hate widescreen. I suppose if I ever get the right TV I might appreciate it, but certainly not at the moment. For now, I much prefer full screen. I can live with the bits I'm not seeing. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2887 Registered: Jul-04 | You could play the CD on one recorder and record on the other. I don't see why make a compressed copy when you can just play the original in a CD player or one of the recorders. It won't make an exact copy like a PC burner would. I don't use my DVD recorders for anything but recording. Players are cheaper and more reliable from my experience. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 99 Registered: Mar-06 | Another nutty thing I'm thinking of doing is making a VHS copy of a current DVD (Crash) that my library has for me. It's ready for me to pick up but once I do so, I will only have it for a week. I can't renew it because it's got like 200 more holds on it, so it'll be a long while before I can get it again. I seem to never have time to watch these things, so I might just make a VHS copy of it and watch it whenever I have the time. I don't have any RW discs yet, so I'll have to get some of those for this kind of thing. In the meantime, I might find out how good a VHS copy of a current DVD looks. Of course I could just burn one of the TY discs on it, but I hate to use one up is I don't want a permanent copy of this flick. I like your thought of using the D-R4's only for recording and not for playing. Keeps them in a "low mileage" state. I finally finalized one of my discs and it went just fine. I need to finalize the rest of them so's they will play in one of my other players. I guess I've made about 40 discs at this point. I unplug my CT-200 whenever it's not being used. It has an auto shut off but still stays somewhat warm if it's plugged in, so I only plug it in when I'm using it. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 63 Registered: May-06 | I found another movie I couldn't transfer from VHS>DVD, Goodwill Hunting with Robin Williams. This is not from BB. I purchased it new and it has only been played twice, but it won't copy. I ordered TY DVD's, I will see if the quality of the blank makes a difference. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2898 Registered: Jul-04 | Different discs won't matter with copy protection, unless it will let you use RAM, which I doubt. RAM recorders will allow recording copy once TV programs on RAM discs, but that isn't the same as Macrovision. |
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New member Username: Newf93Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | I'm looking into buying a new DVD recorder, and just wanted to ask a few questions. I know that to record VHS to DVD, it's better to buy the stand alone recorder instead of the combo. Can anyone recommend a specific recorder? I'd prefer one that instead TOO expensive. Today I looked at a Phillips DVDR 3390, and was wondering if it's any good. I understand that in order to record copyrighted VHS tapes I will need a stabilizer... can I still by the MCM electronics one? I read in an earlier post that they don't sell them anymore. Any suggestions on a good one, which again, isn't too expensive? I will try to buy the TY dvds mentioned here - sounds like they are very good quality. Would these dvd discs play on all DVD players? I need to get something that could play on all players. Any help you could all give me would be very much appreciated. Thank you! |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2902 Registered: Jul-04 | Don't buy Philips. You can get a Toshiba D-R4 on ebay for about $100 new, $40-60 used. MCM doesn't sell stabilizers anymore. You'll probably have to go with Sima or RedPro for a stabilizer that will work. |
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New member Username: Newf93Post Number: 2 Registered: Jul-06 | Thanks for the information David. I just found a few brand new Toshibas on ebay for $85.00. The "Sima" - that's the GoDVD, correct? I noticed a few earlier posts mentioned that there was a CT2 and a CT200... any major difference? Also, once I actually have all this, and assuming I'm successful in making copies, will the copied DVDs play in most any DVD player? Again, thank you SO much for the advice. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2903 Registered: Jul-04 | Yes, the Sima is GoDVD. The 200 has 6 enhancement modes to the 2s 4 modes, I don't know if that's the only difference or not. The discs should play in almost any player. I personally haven't seen a player that doesn't play DVD-R discs. |
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New member Username: DarrenjaePost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | Hiya..Im trying to collect abbott & costello films on dvd,though there are a few of their films which are only on vhs,ive already transfered a couple to dvd with no problems,for some reason my dvd recorder has started to pick up the copy protection code and automatically pauses record,i dont understand this as the films i have already done and the one that wont record are all from MGM/UA home video. Is there any way around this?? Iam using a BUSH DVHS1VCR/DVD combi to play the original VHS recording and a YAMADA DVR-800 DVD recorderfor the burning. Please help |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2904 Registered: Jul-04 | Are you sure it's copy protection? If so it should give a can't record copy protected message on the TV. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 100 Registered: Mar-06 | Nancy - I have the CT-200 and in a prior post (see above) I posted the Sima products link. The CT-2 is no longer listed there and I think I'm correct in saying that the 200 has superceded the 2. Whether it's an "upgrade" in terms of copy protection removal is unclear at this point, but it's certainly at least as good as the CT-2. The 200 also supposedly has an auto (power) shut off, tho' I'm starting to wonder if that's really true. What it DOES have is an "auto signal shutoff." Meaning that when there's no active signal passing through the thing, the green light blinks. So if you shut off your player, the green light will blink. The auto POWER shutoff (if it really has it) is useful because the CT-2 (and I think the 200 as well) is known to get pretty warm if left on for long periods of time. And this can cause the unit to fail eventually (supposedly). But I unplug my 200 whenever it's not being used anyway, so whether or not it really does have an "auto power shutoff" doesn't matter much to me (unless I forget to unplug it). The other differences are that it has extra "enhancement modes," as David has said. I don't know how useful those are anyway, and I haven't fiddled around with them at all yet. Now, whether it has additional copy protection removal is, as I said, unclear to me. But now that I see that James is having some problems with copy protection (with his CT-2), I'm wondering if maybe the 200 doesn't have some additional copy protection removal. I've copied some VERY recent DVD's using my 200 and have had NO problems so far (knock wood). If I were you, I'd take my time and grab a 200 on ebay at a nice price. Or (if you're not cheap like me) just spend a little more and get one right away. But don't get one without a power supply because it does not take batteries. You NEED a power supply for it. The CT-2 can be used with batteries (another difference), but I think that's a bad idea anyway. David has noted many times that you need good batteries or it might not work properly, so why fiddle around with batteries at all? |
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New member Username: Newf93Post Number: 3 Registered: Jul-06 | Thanks David & TMax for all the info on the CT-200. They have quite a few on Ebay that aren't way over my budget - unlike you TMax, I AM cheap! As far as the overheating of the CT-200, that shouldn't be a problem for me either, because I plan to shut it off when not in use. Also, another question - a lot of the Toshiba's on Ebay are refurbished, and I know I read on here that some of you have bought the refurbished ones - have you had any problems with them, or are they as good as buying new? Thanks again for all your help! |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2905 Registered: Jul-04 | Both of mine were open box, they both work fine. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 64 Registered: May-06 | I bought my Toshiba D-R4 on eBay as an "Open Box" item. I'm assuming that means the product was returned to the store (and purchased by the ebay seller to re-sell on eBay) but not used. I have never bought anything other than automobile starters & alternators that were called "refurbished" (or, rebuilt). Frankly, I believe refurbished is just as good as new, if not better. Reason? Assembly line "new" products are randomly tested. Maybe one out of evry 10,000 are pulled off the assembly line and get tested. Refurbished items are tested individually as they are restored. So you can count on the refurbished item being checked out by the individual who rebuilt it. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2907 Registered: Jul-04 | There are a lot of people that prefer to buy refurbished for the reason James states. The only thing I'd be leery of is chapter making. I saw in another forum someone who sent his recorder in 3 times to be repaired under warranty, every time he got it back it still didn't make chapters. I don't know if that's something they'd check when refurbishing recorders or not. |
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Silver Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 101 Registered: Mar-06 | Both of mine were open box as well, and they both work fine as well. I think I posted awhile back on what might be meant by "refurbished" (it might be in the archives by now, but it can't be that old because it was after I got my first D-R4 and that wasn't more than a couple of months ago). I suspect that "refurbished" might have often been the term that Toshiba applied to what is now known as an "open box" item. Prior to the D-R4 being discontinued (which they now are) Toshiba almost certainly accepted store returns ("open box items"), then simply confirmed that they were working (or repaired them if necessary), then boxed them back up and sent them out as "refurbished." Since the D-R4 is now discontinued (awhile ago), Toshiba no longer accepts any "open box" items from the store, so those are now simply "open box" items. Many stores simply accept electronic items back within 30 days (or whatever) without any reason for the return. But there are undoubtely a lot of them still around which were previously sent back to Toshiba and sent back out again as "refurbished." The point being, I suspect that "refurbished" doesn't have anything to do with it being "defective" or "repaired." It just means it was opened, then returned to the store, sent back to Toshiba, confirmed to be working (or repaired if necessary), then sent back out as "refurbished." These units seem to be very reliable, so I would have to conclude that most "refurbished" units didn't need any repair at all. My first one had a small (but noticable) paint chip near the face of it, which I was happy to see. That meant it was probably returned to the store as soon as the guy got it home and opened it and saw the paint chip (or did it himself accidentally!!). Because who wants to pay full price and get one with a paint chip? It was undoubtedly purchased (new) after the D-R4 was discontinued by Toshiba, then brought back to the store and thus became an "open box" item. I highly recommend the D-R4. And I AM cheap (I think I said it right the first time), but I STILL purchased a back-up D-R4 at a VERY nice price -- just in case. So go get one, then snoop around for a backup when you can get it on the cheap. If you're worried about your primary failing, that is. If you take your time, you can get two of these on ebay for much less than the price of a new 'nother brand that's probably nowhere near as good. David's been recommending the D-R4 and the TY discs for as long as I've been on this board, and he clearly knows his stuff. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 65 Registered: May-06 | Ditto on the "David" praise. I think I may have solved my bad recording quality problem. I'm still working on the problem of not being able to transfer those three "older" movies from VHS to DVD. I have been having problems with some copies having skips (or pauses) in the playback. This has happened with VHS>DVD as well as DVD>DVD using the decrypter program on the computer. The one common thread is the brand of media. Verbatum, Office Max, TDK, Imation, etc. But, there is one other common thread I've just discovered. I was reading the tips provided by SuperMediaStore.com and found that non-centered labels can also cause playback problems. Since reading this tip, I've paid attention to my label placements and noticed the label is usually off-set by a few mm's. I am going to be much more patient with my label placement in the future and see if that makes a difference. Just thought I would pass this along in case anyone else is having the same problem. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2908 Registered: Jul-04 | It's best not to use any labels at all. I just write on the discs with a sharpie type marker. |
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Silver Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 102 Registered: Mar-06 | I agree with David's tip. These things spin at pretty high speed and you don't want to run the risk of causing any imbalance, which could then cause various problems including vibration, which you obviously don't want. Any serious imbalance will also cause premature wear on your player, and you don't want that either. Writing on them with a permanent marker like a Sharpie is the safest way to go. |
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New member Username: Benndamann33Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | I definitely have not read all the posts on here because there are hundreds, but the posts I have read seem to be dealing with PC burning to DVD. I have a vhs/dvd all in one player that allows you to dub vhs to dvd, but prohibits copyrighted material from being dubbed. Is it possible to get around this without additional equipment? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2909 Registered: Jul-04 | A seperate VCR and a stabilizer. |
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New member Username: Benndamann33Post Number: 2 Registered: Jul-06 | alright so again my question is can you do it without seperate equipment |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 66 Registered: May-06 | In a word, no. Combo units are designed to pick up the anti-copy signal. So, the video signal must be "washed" with a stabilizer. The audio can go directly from the VHS player to the DVD recorder. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 38 Registered: May-06 | Ben, I bought a combo unit thinking it could be done, and I am sorry to tell you that you must have a stand a lone VHS player and you can use your DVD recorder on your combo unit but you must have a Stablizer, I am using a GODVD CT200 that I bought on ebay. The little black box they call a stablizer and are selling on ebay usually doesnt work, or the one I purchased doesnt.Do a search for GODVD CT200. To get the full details of several people,including myself,trying this project and fianlly suceeding you should read all the post that are Archived through June 12,2006 and Archived through May 25, 2006. You will see all our problems and how we all finally made it work. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 67 Registered: May-06 | Now I have found a DVD that my DVD Decrypter and DVD Shrink won't copy. Disney's latest release of "Shaggy Dog". Does anyone know if there is a new encryption being used? |
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Silver Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 103 Registered: Mar-06 | I've been copying some DVDs via real-time copying using my CT-200 (same as you'd do copying VHS tapes to DVD) and the copies come out as clear as the originals, at least to my eye. If there is any loss of video quality, it can't be very much. The only real disadvantage I can see is when you have something more than 2 hrs long. I'm reluctant to record at anything slower than SP, so I use a 2nd disc to record the extra part. Although I've done it both ways, I'm leaning toward putting the "extra" on the first (short) disc, then finishing the film on the 2nd disc. That is, I put the first 10 or 15 minutes of the film on a disc, then put the final 2 hours on another disc. That way, I don't get really settled in before I have to switch to the 2nd disc. Also, there's usually a good spot early on to put the "intermission." And, once I switch to the 2nd disc, I can relax and enjoy the bulk of the film, including the latter part, where the story will hopefully have developed, without interruption. Works pretty well. Of course, you could just record a short portion at a slower speed, then record the rest at SP, and thereby fit it all on one disc. I haven't done that yet, but it's another way to go. For a 130 min film, you'd end up watching 10 minutes or so at a slower speed, then the rest at normal speed. I assume this can be done (different speeds on the same disc). So far, I haven't really found any "special features of interest. So I'm not missing not having those. And if I do want 'em, I can just copy them in real time as well. If it's already a 2-disc film, I'll just put 'em on that 2nd disc. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 39 Registered: May-06 | Hi Tmax, That would be to much trouble for me to put one movie on 2 disk unless the movie is just really long. I think I would probably just use SLP for a short while then switch to SP in order to have just one disk to keep up with. I am recording all of mine at SLP and they look fine to me using my GODVD CT200. I am only transfering them so I can watch the movies on my portable DVD player. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2925 Registered: Jul-04 | I always use 2 discs if a movie is over 2 hours, but I'm very picky about quality. To me, discs are just too cheap to lose any quality. James, it's probably ARccOS protected. There's a plugin for Decrypter that supposedly will work, or you can try DVD Fab. I don't know if either actually work, I haven't worked with retail DVDs in a long time. |
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Silver Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 104 Registered: Mar-06 | David - That's my feeling as well. I am also picky about video quality, especially when it comes to losing DVD quality just for the sake of getting the whole thing onto one disc. Of course, I've never yet actually seen SLP quality, but I hear it's noticably worse, so I think it most probably is. I'm not so picky that I can't stand VHS>DVD video quality, which is better than VHS (or at least as good) when that's the only choice. But if I'm starting with DVD video quality, I don't want to lose any of it when making a copy. At least, not any more than you have to when doing it my way (real time copying). As far as it being 2 discs, I'm putting the partials all on one disc (until it's full), and labeling it appropriately. Plus I'm keeping my log book (on the 'puter). If you're just putting 10 minutes or so on that "surplus" disc, you can fit the "extra" of 12 flicks on that one disc. Note that these TY discs have consistently been running 124+ minutes long (ya get an extra 4+ minutes with them). That means you can do a 134+ minute movie by putting just 10 minutes on your "surplus" disc. There aren't an awful lot of movies out there that are that long. Of course, you do have some flicks like Fitzcarraldo, which is 158 min. long (and which I did copy). |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 68 Registered: May-06 | Thanks for the links, David. I'll go there as soon as I finish this post. As for putting a 2:20 movie on one disk, I did put one (VHS>DVD) on one disk by recording the first 40 minutes at SLP and then the rest at SP. It worked fine for me. I haven't tried doing this with DVD>DVD. I know these old eyes can't tell the difference in picture quality, but I will give it a try and see. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 69 Registered: May-06 | I wasted 5 disks (1 was a TY) trying to backup "TANK". I don't know why I couldn't get a playable copy from such an old movie, but it simply wouldn't play back. I downloaded the dvdidle.com link David provided and the copy now plays back fine. The DVD was purchased at Wall*Mart in the SALE bin. It doesn't have any copy protection, but the copies just wouldn't play back. Must have been a glitch in the original disk that put a signal on the copy that kept players from playing it back. Anyway, the plugin works great. Now, if I can just find something that allows me to backup my VHS "Goodwill Hunting". |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 70 Registered: May-06 | David, are you still here, or did I run everybody off? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2941 Registered: Jul-04 | I'm still here. I didn't see any new posts here until today. If you were able to burn the disc, it should have played. It's always best to keep your burner firmware up to date, that can solve a lot of problems. You can go to the manufacterer's website and see if you have the latest firmware for your drive. |
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Silver Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 105 Registered: Mar-06 | I'm still here too. I check in pretty much every day. But I have no issues. My D-R4's, TY discs and CT-200 are all working fine (knock wood). I unplug the CT-200 whenever I'm not actually using it and looking for a backup one on the 'Bay. And I still haven't had time to fiddle with the enhancement settings, which I suspect might be useful for some VHS tapes and maybe even for some DVDs. So far, I've had no need to rip and burn any DVDs because any special features that I might want are easily copied "real time." The one exception I've found so far is Twin Peaks Season One, 4th disc (Episode 7 + special features). There are a lot of very interesting interviews and stuff which would take quite awhile to copy real time (and a few discs). That's the kind of thing that ripping and burning would nicely accomodate. The "menu" on some of the stuff is a bit complicated, but I accidentally stumbled across Al Strobel's "postcard," which was fascinating. He played the one-armed man (alter ego "Mike") and described the accident which took his left arm when he was 17 years old, and the out out-of-body near-death experience he had in conjunction with that. Very interesting stuff indeed. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 71 Registered: May-06 | I'm not sure what is meant by "Firmware". Could you elaborate. Is that link (dvdidle.com)a firmware update? I ask because after downloading from that link, I was able to copy and play the movie. I have backed up 7 more movies since, all on TY disks, and I haven't had any problem. Maybe it is a combination of the program & the better quality TY disks. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2947 Registered: Jul-04 | Firmware is the software that controls the burner. Here's how you can see what version you have. In decrypter, click tools, drive, check for firmware updates, it will tell you what version you have. Then you can go to the manufacterer's website and see if it's the latest version. If you've got a name brand burner that you've had for awhile without updating it, it's probably old firmware. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 72 Registered: May-06 | David I read somewhere that we should find out what code (DVD code, I assume) works best with the burner I have. Do you know how to find out the code and what difference does it make? Also, I went to the firmware update page and there was something in the instructions that said I should click on DISABLE to make the drive region free. Do you recommend running a drive region free? Will it cause any problems? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2948 Registered: Jul-04 | I would guess they mean region code. If you don't do any DVDs from other countries, then you don't need to change it or make it region free. Did you go to the manufacterer's website for firmware? If not it's probably going to be hacked firmware. I'd stick with manufacterer firmware, unless you want to burn at faster than the disc rated speeds, which will probably cause problems. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 73 Registered: May-06 | How is the information obtained by 'Disk Identifier' important? I downloaded the program, but I guess I don't get the significance of the program. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2958 Registered: Jul-04 | I don't even know what Disk Identifier is. What were you trying to do with it? |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 74 Registered: May-06 | I had read somewhere that it is a good idea to know what the disk ID is that you are using. If you have quality issues, it may be more than just brand. They suggested downloading a Disk Identifier program (SuperMediaStore.com has it available) to check the unique disk ID of the disks you are using. It is a free download. The program gives all the pertinent info about the disk, DVD-R or +R, Brand Name, Manufacturer, and a unique ID. I'm wondering if the unique ID isn't just another title for batch number. Although, the article mentioned that once we find an ID number that works best, we should stick with it. So, as I understand it, batch numbers don't repeat. That's why I was hoping you could explain it a little better. I'm still confused as to how we can know what the unique ID number is when we pick up the spindle at the store. Just Google "Free Disk Identifier Download" to get a list of sites offering it. Hopefully it makes more sense to you than it did to me. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2959 Registered: Jul-04 | You can use Decrypter to get the media code, or DVDInfoPro is a good program for that kind of stuff, it's free. In Decrypter, click mode, ISO write, put a blank disc in and it will give the manufacterer, media code and burn speeds supported by your burner with that media in the box on the right. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 75 Registered: May-06 | I still don't understand the significance of knowing the media code. |