Archive through March 14, 2006
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JTS in Chi Unregistered guest | I have a 5067 and a Samsung HTWP38 surround sound system. Does anyone have any ideas how to get the surround sound in sync with the TV. I'd say it's about 2 frames out of sync... with the TV sound and the surround system both on, the tv sound (which is in sync) seems to be slightly ahead. The home theater can be set to delay the sound, but that's not my problem. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 602 Registered: May-05 | Use the internal mute on the set. There is no reason to use the tv speakers with a surround sound system. If you don't own a center channel you can set up a virtual center channel in any ss receiver. |
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JTS in Chi Unregistered guest | FYI... Thanks for the advice. However, what I was saying was that the way I could CONFIRM that it was out of sync was by using the tv sound and the surround sound at the same time. I do in fact use the internal mute and the surround... my problem is that the surround is a few frames out of sync with the picture. Perhaps not enough to bother some people, but I'm a TV producer, and it drives me crazy. Any further thoughts? |
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Silver Member Username: Helpful_smurfPost Number: 175 Registered: Jun-05 | Easy, run your video and audio through a better reciever that should synch it all back up again. A Yamaha 5990 should do, it will run you about a thousand bucks but that should be chickenscratch to a TV producer right? ;) |
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Barrie D Unregistered guest | Why should someone have to pay a thousand dollars to correct a problem that was non Existence with a previous cheaper set, |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 605 Registered: May-05 | JTS in Chi said, "The home theater can be set to delay the sound, but that's not my problem." So, this whole thing is a bit confusing. He wanted to sync up the tv speakers with the ss receiver. That's not going to happen. The only reason would be to compensate for no center channel. However, then he says, "my problem is that the surround is a few frames out of sync". If the ss receiver doesn't have enough delay there are other alternatives. My experience is that only certain programs on certain channels present significant delay and they're few and far between to matter to me. Here is a link with some explaination. http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/specsformats/AV_lip_sync_delay.html Apart from a better receiver, here is another alternative. http://www.felston.com/dd540/ |
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JTS in Chi Unregistered guest | FYI-- The only reason I was trying to sync-up the home theater and the sound from the TV was because the TV speakers were the ones that were in-sync. I was just using the tv speaker as a guide for myself to get the home theater in-sync as well-- not to actually use the tv speakers. My impression was that the home theater was a few frames BEHIND where it should be... so delaying them won't help. What I need to do is to get the home theater sound AHEAD a couple of frames. I will double check my system at home tonight, but I do believe that the home theater sound is actually behind, not ahead, of the picture. I hope that is clearer. Any suggestions? |
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New member Username: CyjellyPost Number: 3 Registered: Dec-05 | Has anybody else experienced really green faces in dark sceens on their Samsung DLP (specifically the HLP 5085 Pedastel model)? It looks as if there is a green shadow on the faces and other objects. This may be a little silly, but a great example is when the characters in LOST are down in the computer room in the hatch. I have changed cables and recalibrated colour with no success. Also, I can't seem to get anywhere with Samsung Service (surprise, surprise). PLEASE HELP!!! |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 609 Registered: May-05 | Cory, What do you mean by, "I can't seem to get anywhere with Samsung Service."? 1-800- SAMSUNG prompts 2,1,3,1 JTS, I've never heard of the sound trailing the video. The situation with everyone has always been a video processing delay causing the sound to be ahead by various milliseconds. I've discovered that much of it is content or source related. If it was truly a video processing issue it would be constant. It's never constant! |
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Mr. Gary Unregistered guest | FYI - I have 1.25 years on my Samsung HL-P5063W with no problems and an SUPERB picture - second to none in my opinion. To play it safe, I just ordered a back up lamp from Samsung. Shocked to find that they just upped the price from $199 to $229. Other vendor sites sell these light assemblies for significantly more. So you may want to order a back up as I suspect the price will go even higher...... I have 1300 hours on my original lamp. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 610 Registered: May-05 | Mr. Gary, Thanks for the post. I really did like my P63. It had a better screen than the R67 I have now. The lamp costs were supposed to drop. I guess that's not happening. You can get your lamp much cheaper on ebay. I've seen yours go for around $100 new in the box quite regularly. I've got two extra 01073As, but mine were $159 each. It's the square vented type instead of the round enclosed that you have. You can pick up some 0224A or C lamps cheaper and swap the glass lamp into your housing too. It's pretty easy. http://search.ebay.com/samsung-lamp_W0QQcatrefZC3QQfromZR2 |
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JTS in Chi Unregistered guest | FYI... We'll, you can't say you've never heard of sound trailing video anymore, because that's what I've got with my HTWP38. And you say it's "never constant". How do you know that? I've got the same delay on every channel. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 612 Registered: May-05 | I speak from the longevity of consistent reviews of posts on two forums. Yours is the first case I've ever encountered of an HL-R5067W with a steady audio trailing the video condition using a surround sound receiver. The set has only been alleged to have an intermittent video processing delay, which appears to exaggerate infrequent content lip/sync issues. I'm guessing the receiver has the problem. I suggest you try a different receiver to isolate the condition. |
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Mr. Gary Unregistered guest | FYI - thanks for your post regarding using E-Bay to look for new lamp assy. Wish I had thought of that before I bought lamp from Samsung!!! May try to send it back and get a refund if I can get one much cheaper. Anyway - your input is useful for others. Most of your inputs are very usful. Thanks. |
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Maul rat Unregistered guest | FYI, I have a HLR6167w... Could elobarate more on the lamp purchasing advice, i.e., I can just by the lamp without the housing? If so do you have a model number for just the lamp(-the housing)so that I can do a search? My lamp is still working good- just want to safe. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 614 Registered: May-05 | Maul rat, You have a 67 like me. Most likely yours is an 01073A like mine. There's a sticker on the left side with your lamp part number. I haven't found any of the square vented glass lamps yet. I'm looking, though. There's a guy on ebay that can get whole units for $159. There are lots of the round enclosed 120W glass lamps for sale, but that doesn't do us any good. A Phillips screwdriver is all it takes to swap one out if you can get the glass lamp. Mr. Gary, Thanks for the kind words! Best regards! |
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New member Username: MaulratPhoenix Post Number: 10 Registered: Jul-05 | FYI, thanks for the info. I checked my tv and it actually looks like this is the one I have- http://www.samsungparts.com/part_detail.asp?catalog%5Fname=Parts+and+Accessories &product%5Fid=BP96%2D00826A - The 00826a-. Does this make it easier to find the lamp by itself minus the housing? More specifically what keywords would you put in for a search for just the lamp? Also I noticed a few post up that the lamp had jumped up to $229. As of this post it looks both lamps-1073 and 0826 are back down to $199 |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 617 Registered: May-05 | Did you check the sticker on the left side of your tv or did you check the samaungparts.com website? You need to trust the sticker or actually inspect your lamp. $199 Yea...I saw that too! Just enter "samsung lamp" in the ebay search and a dozen or so will come up. If yours is the round enclosed 120W type you're a lucky dog! It's my understandidng that any 826A, 608A, 224A-C, will swap into the 826A housing. Some guy is selling loose ones as well, but I don't think they are Phillips. I wouldn't buy anything other than Phillips. |
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Bronze Member Username: MaulratPhoenix Post Number: 11 Registered: Jul-05 | Yes, I check the side of the tv. I'll do the search and see what I come up with. Thanks for your help. |
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AJ in IN Unregistered guest | I have had the same problem as JTS in Chi, but slightly different. The sound trails the picture, but only on occasions. It only happens when I watch a DVD, and only on some DVD's. Even when it happens on a DVD, there are times when the DVD will synch back up a few chapters later, or get worse a few chapters later, or sometimes just stay at the same amount of lag behind the picture. Whatever the case with the individual DVD, though, it remains constant for that specific DVD no matter when it is viewed. It seems to be a very bizarre problem, however I thought I'd weigh in to let you know that JTS isn't crazy - it has happened to me, too. (Although, I am not able to empirically rule out the insanity of the both of us . . . !) |
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Alexiboy Unregistered guest | -----------------Hi Guys, I have a hln467w. It is about 1.5 years old. We had a power surge so I had to replace the line filter and power board. Now the picture seems to go on a cycle of changing the contrast from dark to light in a very quick cycle and it doesnt stop. Do you all have any idea what is wrong with it? and also can you tell me how I can check how many hours the lamp has been used? |
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JTS in Chi Unregistered guest | AJ... Thank you for the sanity check! I haven't had a lot of time to watch DVD's since I got the 5067 and the surround sound in early January. I will check and see if I have the same problem with the DVD. Do you have the Samsung HTWP38 "wireless" home theater system as well? |
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Anonymous | No one ever answered Cory about the green shadows in low light on screen conditions. I have noticed this on my HLR5668 also. I do not have HD service yet and was hoping when I got it the problem would go away. Anyone comment>>>>>>> |
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auburndarin Unregistered guest | First of all, thanks to all who have posted issues with their DLP's out here. This forum is a much better help than any Samsung manual will ever be... which by the way is a complete joke. Here is the issue I have just ran into on my HLN4365.... its the old solarization or topographical map thing I see in a few of the forums. Here is the best definition for what I am seeing: False Contouring: Also known as solarization or posterization. False contouring occurs when color shows as distinct contours or edges where there shouldn't be any. This occurs when colors that should flow naturally between shades or brightnesses do so discretely in clearly defined bands. The visual effect is the look of a topographical map instead of a video image. I've had the television since 10/16/2004. No problems at all until a few weeks ago. This problem began to surface and has gotten worse. I have a technician coming out next week, but would be curious to hear ideas from any of you. I don't believe it is a bulb issue, since there doesn't appear to be any more "diming" to the pciture. The colors look odd. I have attempted calibration of those without any improved success. Reds are really pink. Faces are sunburned and pixeled. Standard Definition is MUCH worse than HD, although the problem is apparent on HD channels as well as DVDs. I have tried multiple inputs, including DVI and S-video to compare what the picture looks like. Results are similar. My next hunch that there is an issue with the color wheel. I'd love to hear if any of you have ran into this issue. Again, I've had the set for 18 months, and it hasn't always looked like this. Thanks very much. |
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Anonymous | Hello, I have an HLP4663W that I bought about 16 months ago and that generally has worked great. Recently the screen went black with all three lights blinking and I changed out the lamp with no problem. However, now the set will turn on with the usual ascending tones, but the screen stays black. The set intermittently makes a soft clicking sound that sounds like its attempting to start again, but the screen stays black. I spoke to the authorized service center and the guy said the main circuit board is probably blown and costs $1600 to replace. Can anyone think of any other maneuvers to try while I wait the two weeks for the service center to work through their backlog? I tried unplugging and plugging the set and reseating the lamp. The changeout of the lamp was easy and uneventful. Thanks. Joe |
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New member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-06 | Lamps - I see lamps up to $300? Bought mine from Samsungparts.com $199 Don't know why everyone else wants more? I see some for bid, but I would probably end up with a used one, so I bite the bullet and go to Samsung. I had to order a new color wheel because of the noise and they are STILL selling the one that squeals after all these years (NO air bearing). Very poor business practice, guess they have us by the short hairs. It may be worth $5,000 for the new system with NO color wheel and NO lamp? I have never experienced a better picture and GLARE proof. I always hated my ugly mug staring back at me in all those other TV's. Had a very small group of what I thought were dead pixels and after contacting a tech., He asked me to tune to cable and they disappeared! It was the Satellite signal. Changed HD box and have never encountered that problem again. I hope the above helps others. NO other TV for me, I love my Sammy 43" 1080i. Love this site and will keep reading it! |
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New member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Feb-06 | Upon waiting for the replacement color wheel I saw that the 2 fans were covered with dust so I cleaned them as well as the inside of the cabinet. I then taped 2 layers of cheese cloth over the intake vent in the rear which should stop 99% of the dust, it will NOT hinder the airflow. I have used this method on many components and it does work! CHEAP insurance, but do change the cloth every 3 or 4 months. I do have a question - there is a small door in the read midway up the cabinet, that when you remove it one can see a projection lens and it also looked a little dusty. Amy suggestions as to cleaning it? or even if I should try? |
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Unregistered guest | I have a SAMSUNG HLN507WX and it started making a high pitched whining noise. I suspect it is the color wheel or maybe a fan. I have seen discussion aluded to in this thread about color wheel problems, but not enough information to tell me if that is the problem. How can I tell for sure and is it something I could replace or should I rely on tech support? |
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Diane S Unregistered guest | I also have SAMSUNG HLN507WX and have the same high pitched noise as well. So loud that you have to have the TV voulume turned up high in order not to hear it. We think it may be a transformer.The picture is great. Any info on this would be great. |
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New member Username: MikeschuPA USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-06 | I have a Samsung HLN617WX that I think has the color wheel problem. It makes a varied pitch whine that is at times very loud. The whine stops within a few seconds of shut off. Where can I get a new color wheel that is the latest technology at a good price? Is there a way to verify that the color wheel is my problem? Should I replace the bulb at the same time and f so, where is the best place to get it? The picture quality is still excellent. Thanks, Mike |
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New member Username: MikeschuPA USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Feb-06 | Another question. I checked out the Samsung parts weebsite for the lamp for my HLN617WX nd it looks like there are two listed---BP96-00224B and BP96-00224J. Is the J model the most current? Is there a difference? |
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New member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 3 Registered: Feb-06 | Michael & Dave The J model is supposed to be the latest. Any difference? The Tech at Samsung didn't know either. As far as parts, I have 3 emails into them with questions and in a week they have never replied to one. Some parts supplier. I'm no expert, but I believe you will find that it is the Color Wheel squealing? or maybe a mouse living inside! Samsung placed that color wheel right in front of a HOT projection lamp so I expect it can't take the heat or the heat dissapates all the lubricant in time. Do pay the $22 for the SERVICE manual for your model, it will pay for itsself. I sure don't want to pat 2/3 hundred dollars for a parts replacer and that is all the Tech's do anymore. I'm suprised Tom Bong hasn't comented, must be on vacation. OR, someone taped his mouth and hands and took his computer away!!!! |
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New member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 4 Registered: Feb-06 | Michael & Dave The J model is supposed to be the latest. Any difference? The Tech at Samsung didn't know either. As far as parts, I have 3 emails into them with questions and in a week they have never replied to one. Some parts supplier. I'm no expert, but I believe you will find that it is the Color Wheel squealing? or maybe a mouse living inside! Samsung placed that color wheel right in front of a HOT projection lamp so I expect it can't take the heat or the heat dissapates all the lubricant in time. Do pay the $22 for the SERVICE manual for your model, it will pay for itsself. I sure don't want to pat 2/3 hundred dollars for a parts replacer and that is all the Tech's do anymore. I'm suprised Tom Bong hasn't comented, must be on vacation. OR, someone taped his mouth and hands and took his computer away!!!! |
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New member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 5 Registered: Feb-06 | I don't see any reply to Diane's post? I have never heard a transformer squeal, but, I haven't heard everything. Call any repair Tech and ask them if transformers do squeal? I was told that when you turn off the set and the squeal persists for seconds that it is the cooling fan. If it goes away almost immediately, its the color wheel? Sometimes I can barely hear mine and other times it is unbareable. My color wheel is supposed to be here Monday and I will post the results by Tuesday. That's if the plane is not hijacked. |
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Unregistered guest | Hey guys, this forum seems like the best place for me to get answers right now, so here's my question. I just bought an HL-R6768W, received it last Tuesday, and loved it, until yesterday. Yesterday, I turned it on to play a game, and after 25 secs, the screen went black. then about 20 secs. later it went back on. It did this three times before it finally went back into standby/off. I tried using the remote, and all it does is make the timer light flash, it doesn't do anything. Also, the buttons on the side of the TV aren't working either. Needless to say, I'm irritated. But the thing is, I got it from butterflyphoto.com, and they don't do the exchanges. Instead I have to rely on servicing or Samsung itself. Looking back, I'm not so sure the money saved buying from them was worth it. If anyone can help me, I would appreciate it. I did try the unplug thing too. Thanks. |
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New member Username: DaveshaferPoulsbo, WA USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Feb-06 | Diane, I am confident the noise is not from a transformer. There are no moving parts in transformers. They might hum a little bit, but won't squeel. The squeeling would only be from a fan or the color wheel...or a mouse who doesn't like the heat.  . My picture is still good too, even with the sqeeling. However, the squeeling has gotten so loud it is unbearable to try to watch TV even with the volume turned up. Fortunately, I bought the extended warranty, but can't get help over the weekend...will have to wait until next week I guess. Dave |
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New member Username: DaveshaferPoulsbo, WA USA Post Number: 3 Registered: Feb-06 | Sogelegos, I am not an expert, but have seen other posts that recommend checking that the bulb is properly seated. Sometimes in shipping they get loose and might work for a couple days, then have a problem. I had to replace the bulb on my set several months ago and when it started to go it worked somewhat intermittently like you describe. But you want to be sure that is what the problem is, because they are not cheap. Also, if you don't have a spare bulb, I recommend getting one so you don't have to wait when it eventually goes...which it will. Dave |
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Sogelegos Unregistered guest | Thanks for the suggestion, but I tried it and the lamp wasn't loose at all. I am still stuck with the same problem. Plus, as I said before the remote won't work at all. It will turn the TV on, but I can't get the menu, volume, channel, source. Nothing the only thing that happens is the green timer led flashes whenever I push a button on the remote. The buttons on the side don't work either. I suspect it's a software issue or something like that. I'll try almost any suggestion, really don't want to have to go through the warranty ringer. Thanks again. |
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Diane S Unregistered guest | Thank you for your response. Yes mine is soooooo loud that I don't even want to turn on the TV. Someone did tell me that the bulb could be loose, that the fillaments in the lamp could be vibrating and that may cause the buzzing sound. Who knows will have a tech come out and check on it. I thought when the bulb was bad that the pic would also go? And what about the color wheel will the pic go bad with that as well? |
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Silver Member Username: Helpful_smurfPost Number: 176 Registered: Jun-05 | Have you tried unplugging the set for a few minutes and then plugging it back in. This reboots the set. The non working buttons makes me think this might help. |
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New member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 6 Registered: Feb-06 | I have found, as Helpful Smurf suggests, that unplugging a computer, lan, TV, Satellite-box etc. to cure MANY problems and even I forget that should be the first try. Diana, I would bet the farm it is NOT the filament as they don't even like vibration. They even sometimes disintegrate if you bump them. That is why there is a cool down lapse when you turn off the set, so that they last longer. Someone suggested th whack the bulb!!?? Costly mistake. My set is 2.5 years old and we watch a LOT of TV as we are retired and haven't changed a bulb yet. Buying a spare and having it set idle when you can have one the next day seems economically foolish as the bulb was $300 when I bought the set and now $200 and should drop further. |
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Mr. Gary Unregistered guest | Sogelegos - not sure with your model is this applies. There have been past posts about the remote not working and funny stuff happens. Cure for this could be the big round push button with the 3 light indicators. Some times it gets stuck in and screws up the controls. Check yours to make sure it is not stuck. Let me know if that helps. |
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New member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 7 Registered: Feb-06 | Well Gang I just finished replacing the Color Wheel and all is quite on the Western front. A job NOT for the faint of heart. I have built 4 color TV's in the 60's and I found it quite exhausting changing the wheel. You have to pull the back completely off, half the chassis out, unplug many cables, remove a LOT of screws, and PRAY that all is well when it is done. I bought a service manual and it wasn't a great help as they don't show or tell how to do it, step by step. So, again I would pay a tech to replace that color wheel. As for the Lamp, a piece of cake, a 4 year old could do that. My wife is elated not hearing that squeal!!! Those that have a SQUEAL are surly looking at a new color wheel, Sorry there is no easy cure. |
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sogelegos Unregistered guest | I did leave it unplugged for quite awhile, and it didn't help at all. As for the button suggestion, it doesn't seem stuck or to be any different from how it was when i got it, but I'l check it out. Anyone else think it could be a software problem? |
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New member Username: AshehPost Number: 1 Registered: Feb-06 | BLUE COLORED ON SCREEN MENUS I have a Samsung TXN3075 WHF and it works fine. However, the on-screen menus (channel, volumne, even option menues) used to be of light colors (for example white, green, etc) but they are all DARK BLUE NOW. It is very hard to read them and it is annoying. Is there a way to revert them back? SOMETIMES when I start the TV, the menus are light-colored but after a few minutes they go back to BLUE. Appreciate your help, since I can't find the answer in the BBS or manuals. |
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janesca Unregistered guest | I have a new HLR5067W. So far, so good. My problem is connecting a VCR (also a Samsung). I have Brighthouse cable DVR, their instructions are to connect the incoming cable to the DVR box and out to the TV. Then use the video/audio out ports from the DVR box to the video/audio in ports on the back of the VCR, then use the video/audio out ports from the VCR to the in ports on the TV. It always worked fine for me on my last TV, but now I can't record anything to the VCR. I can play a pre-recorded VHS just fine, but can't record. I know it sounds redundant, why would I need to record on a VCR if I have a DVR cable box, but my husband likes to save some of the 'do it yourself' shows on VHS tape. I have spent HOURS on this and have it narrowed down to something in the TV setup, but can't figure out exactly what. The VCR is on ch. 3, I think the TV is at ch. 3 but I tried using that stupid TV Guide thing, which you can't utilize with a DVR box anyway, and I think maybe that might be causing my problem, but don't know how to figure it out or fix it. Any ideas??? |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | janesca, In order to record on the VCR you will have to split the cable and send one to the DVR and one to the VCR. Then hook up both the DVR and the VCR to the TV via the proper cables to individual inputs on the TV. The VCR and DVR will then act independently and you will be able to record to both. The only problem with this method is that anything in the upper regions of the channel spectrums (i.e over channel 99) will not be able to be accessed through the VCR. I hope this helps. |
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janesca Unregistered guest | Sounds reasonable and logical, I did try that, (believe me I have spent hours at this and tried all sorts of combinations!) and I can record from the cable box a show that is on the tv screen, but if I played back a show saved on the DVR, instead of that show getting taped, what got taped was whatever channel the cable box was tuned to and not the show being viewed on playback. Thanks for your reply, I appreciate the input, will try it again, just in case! |
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AuburnDarin Unregistered guest | I wanted to follow up on my earlier post about the solarization and color issue I was having. Tech came out and moved my delay down to under 200 in the service menu (it was like 238 or something). I had made some adjustments in the submenus but nothing helped it until he made those adjustments. He mentioned that power surges can cause strange things to happen with the DLP settings. Perhaps taking a quick inventory of your settings when things are good, might help in the future if this happens to someone else. Just thought I'd pass along what I found out. |
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H Colmbs Unregistered guest | Are you talking about the Index Delay in the service menu? That's usually between 40 and 60. Are you sure it was delay? |
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JTS in Chi Unregistered guest | I know you'll all be excited to hear that I've solved my sync problem between my 5067 and my HTWP38. It was simple really, and I feel dumb for not doing this before. I had the digital audio coming out of the tv into the home theater. What I needed to do was take the digital audio out of the Comcast DVR box into the home theater. Everything's in sync now. You can stop worrying about me. |
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Brentwood Steve Unregistered guest | After reading this forum, now I know I am not the only one with Samsung DLP problems! My brand new Samsung HL-R5688w from Second Act arrived on 12/30/05. Just 59 days later, the TV is completely unusable. In a four day span the screen went from periodic flickering to horizontal colored lines all over the screen half the time, to four separate solid colored squares most of the time to no picture at all. I called 1-800-SAMSUNG and after three days was referred to Home Service Network who said the soonest they could come out was six days later. So here I sit, watching my old 19" CRT that sits next to my brand new beautiful but broken DLP HDTV. I feel helpless and at the mercy of Samsung and its authorized service center. First of all, if Home Service Network can't fix it during the first visit, what should I do? What can I reasonably expect from Samsung? Anyone have any tips? Second, does anyone have any idea what is wrong with my set? |
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Toobadsosad Unregistered guest | You placed yourself "at the mercy of Samsung and it's authorized service center" when you did not buy an extended warranty. Penny wise and pound foolish, textbook case. at When you PAY for a service plan you can expect faster service. When the company is footing the bill you can expect long delays. |
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New member Username: DaveshaferPoulsbo, WA USA Post Number: 4 Registered: Feb-06 | This is just a follow up from my earlier post about a problem with screeching from my Samsung HLN507WX. I had the Magnolia HIFI Tech come out last Friday (yes...I bought the extended warranty!). Sure enough, the problem was the color wheel. He left the defunct color wheel behind...it is pretty neat. Amazing technology. |
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Anonymous | Toobadsosad, You're a freaking idiot. Your comments are so far off base it's laughable. The truth is just the opposite. Besides, extended warranties are just that, an extension of the manufacturer's warranty. In case you have never been down this road, which obviously you haven't, the EW begins at the end of the factory warranty. What a boneheaded idiot. It never ceases to amaze me how many dumbass people come on here mouthing off. |
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Toobadsosad Unregistered guest | BZZZZZT! Thanks for playing. Extended warrantys start the day you buy them. Compare the stories in this thread. The people who wait are the ones who have only factory warranty. Those with EWs are usually up and running again within a week. |
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Unregistered guest | Hi, I have a projector Infocus X1. The color wheel is damaged. Is there anybody send me information about the price of the spare parts-color wheel (A13528) or optical engine (505-1506-xx)? |
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J Sedwick Unregistered guest | Toobadsosad, your theory takes EXTENDED out of EW. I've had two warranty service calls. One was next day and the other was two days. I checked with my EW and they will be using the same guy. Any repair service is location and scheduling dependent first then parts availability dependent next. There is no truth in fact to your claim. Perhaps you are not aware that CC, BB, and other brick and mortar service shops who offer EWs are filing a claim with the manufacturer during the first year. They will not file with the EW underwriter during the factory warranty period. Perhaps you are also unaware that you can choose a different authorized service center in metro areas. Your observation is your own, sir. |
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auburndarin Unregistered guest | I will find out what menu the adjustment was made in... but in my model, they delay was the on-screen label and it was definately set to around 200. I'll follow up with my model number and service menu sub-directory. |
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foolish buyer Unregistered guest | Same old moan and groan. Purchased HLP 6163W, 61" Samsung DLP. Worked fine, 2 months out of warranty, three lights of death. Replaced bulb, replaced ballast. Repair guy said new light engine needed, cost was $1900.00 with labor and tax. No EW. $1900 is about half or original purchase cost. Called Samsung. Samsung said "will call back". Samsung never called back. Faxed Samsung support. No response to five separate faxes. The bottom line, for me, is I will never purchase another Samsung product. And I was a big user, too, with Samsung fax machines, phones and other office machines. Perhaps it is best to avoid DLP technology until some assurance can be given it can work in the long term. |
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HammerROC Unregistered guest | I've got a HLR5067W with over the air reception which receives great HD broadcasts from the local stations, but every once in a while channels will drop off my channel list, and I can't get them reprogrammed in, one minute there with high signal strength, and the next minute the channel is gone. Any suggestions? |
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New member Username: BigtvbigtroubleCalgaryCanada Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-05 | Ok even though there seems to be more problems then people without that are helping, I'd figure I'd take my chances and ask a couple questions. I have a 43'' Samsung DLP TV, it's a couple years old now (for those really investigative people it's the HLN436W model) and when I hook up my 360 I notice a scrolling vertical line. Now I found out it was the refresh rate (what an xbox guy told me) and that I had to swtich it to 1080i. Ok, done, fixed. My question now is, why, when my TVs native setting says (from the website) "All format conversion to 720p" would I get this issue when I run 720p on my 360? Now I don't know if this will help someone help me but when I run my upconverting DVD player at the 720p (1280 X 720 Res) the picture does not fill the entire screen on either side of the picture (probably lose about an inch). Would this mean that it's not really a 720p TV and I've been duped? Or...? Thanks in advance for any help. |
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njh123 Unregistered guest | To all those with black level problems (losing detail or color in dark scenes). Turn the DNIe demo on and watch the unprocessed image. I bet you will see the details you were missing on unprocessed side (DNIe Off). It seems that most of the time the DNIe is doing wonderful things, but for low light scenarios, it seems to completely black out shades of black. Calibration of settings did not help me. Also, I noticed that whites can get washed out in DNIe. See for yourself with the demo. Neil |
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daylate dollar short Unregistered guest | just ordering color wheel for my hln5065w from samsungparts.com. $239, what happend, could have sworn it was $150 when i looked in december. |
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New member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 8 Registered: Feb-06 | daylatedollarshort, $239.00 is the latest. Maybe they upgraded it and it will last a year? How much did you expect to pay for something they make in China for $5? I love my Sammy, BUT, from all the problems I read on this site I am having my doubts as to whether I will ever buy another Samsung product. Especially when they don't reply to their customers. They were even rude when I told them that the color wheel should be replaced FREE as they have had the same problem for years and haven't cured it. |
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New member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 9 Registered: Feb-06 | For anyone that buys from <samsungparts.com> and wants to email them a question - FORGET IT, I wrote 4 emails and have never received any answers. I guess they run their parts division just like their electronics business - NO ANSWERS. Customer Service? there is NONE. Maybe 2007 there will be no Samsung? |
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Anonymous | Hey guys, Good topic. I just got my Samsung HLR5067W yesterday. These questions are probably answered already but this topic is getting long. 1) The picture froze twice last night. Is this something to be concerned about? Is this a signal problem? 2) SHould the Standby/Temp LED always be on? THanks guys |
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Unregistered guest | I'm hoping to get some help from the assembled group. The unit is a HLM507W, purchased in Feb 2004. The lamp, a "224A", went out last September, which I replaced. The lamp goes out again (5 months service!) the other day, or at least I'm getting the 3 flashing lights. Replaced lamp assembly and still nothing. The unit tries three times to fire up, and then goes into flashing mode. So, the questions are: 1. If the fans are dirty, will that stop the lamp? 2. Am I due for a ballast? 3. Is is worthwhile to do the "Toshiba to Phillips Lamp Change Kit"? Thanks Hans Neubert |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 618 Registered: May-05 | Anon, 1) The picture froze. Welcome to digital reception. 2) If the set is off the Standby/Temp should be on. If the set is on all LEDs should be off. hans, 1) Yes 2) Yes 3) Yes |
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Ryanb Unregistered guest | Please help. I have the HLN507W and just had the color wheel replaced (warranty) this week to stop the squeeling and it worked (thanks for the posts pointing to the color wheel) HOWEVER, that was in the morning, that night I noticed when watching dark screens that I had smudges or clouding on the right half of my screen. These were not there before this visit. They look like a bunch of light grey octagons on my screen, approx 20-30 of them about 3 inches in dia. I can't see them during normal colors, but when there's a black screen b/w commercials or I switch components, you can see it and it's annoying. What is this? If it's the two screens (if my model has two)gathering dust, would the new screen be a single screen or two? How can I fix it? Another question, when I hook up my DVD player to Component 2 or 3 (my ps2 is in comp 1), that component says NOT SUPPORTED MODE. I've tried this w/ two diff DVD players that both have Component capabilities. What am I doing wrong? Thank you for your help in advance. No response from Tom Bong please. Thanks, Ryan |
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New member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 10 Registered: Feb-06 | Ryan Did you see the Tech service your set? He had to pull out the Light Engine to replace the color wheel and he may not have cleaned the lens that projects the image? Therefore, dirt may be causing the smudges. Mine was very dirty and I cleaned it with eyeglass tissue that are impregnated with cleaner and alcohol. He should have cleaned all 3 fans and blown the dust out of the TV. Second possibility you may want to call him back or better yet get someone else to correct your problem. REMEMBER, these guys are parts replacers and most have NEVER seen a TV this far advanced. When sliding the chassis that houses the light engine back in the alignment has to be absolutely correct. The lens slides through a foam covering and that can't be folded etc. or problems occur. On your DVD - You should be using DVI input or Red/Green/Blue coaxial cables or you are wasting your time and NOT getting HD. My Samsung is a HD - DVD player and they cost $300 or more. ALL the rest are analog and are obsolete. Anything but a digital signal from your DVD player is un-watchable, especially after experiencing real HD. Read my previous article on filtering the intake grille on the TV to keep dust out of the Light engine and the cooling fans - a cheap way to avoid future expenses! |
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Bronze Member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 11 Registered: Feb-06 | Ryan and to ALL Did you know that your set is a 1280x720P resolution and that is only 1/2 a HDTV? Many are taking their sets back after finding that have been miss-led about HD. True HD is 1920x1080P - over 2 million pixels. A 720P has only 900,000 pixels and is half the definition. All the ads now show the difference because so many sets have been returned after being informed of the truth. This is true with LCD and Plasma too. Also, they are not producing 1080P sets under 50". Mine is a 43" 1080i which interlaces the signal giving that real HD picture. They don't offer that anymore either. If anyone, even Tom, has any corrections or better information, do post it for all of us that are still learning about HDTV. |
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Unregistered guest | I got Samsung DLP HLP5663W in Aug05. Been working great, no noise .. yet. The problem I started getting recently is with the picture. March06, I started seeing green outlines around objects or actors. Seeing the green with all inputs (VCR, DVD or STB). Also, sometimes there are horizontal green lines that go accros half the screen from the left side. I tried playing with the color settings...didn't fix anything. |
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Ryanb Unregistered guest | Walter, thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it. Ryan |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 621 Registered: May-05 | Walter, You shouldn't be writing crap like 720P is half of an HD picture. You clearly don't know what you're talking about. The two High Definition signal formats are 720P and 1080i, period. You couldn't tell them apart if your life depended on it! Don't confuse them with 720P and 1080P displays. There were no -0- 1080P displays a year ago except for demos at the CES. The 1080P display is a new device on the scene. They are very expensive for early adopters and untested in the market place. Almost every HD set owner today has a 720P native display and we are quite happy with them, thank you. If you own a 1080P hoorah for you, but remember, when you watch ABC or Fox you are watching a scaled 720P broadcast. Don't be thinking you are getting screwed for that! It will look excellent just like 720P is supposed to. I suggest you increase your HD knowledge before making foolish comments. Google is an excellent tool! You obviously have a lot to learn about what is real HD and what is a scaled image to a display type. |
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hansmeister Unregistered guest | To FYI, Thanks for your brief reply. Correction to my previous post on purchase date: it is March 03. Back panel is off, very little dust on lamp fan. Taped override switch, and plugged unit in. Same as before: three tries to fire up, then three flashing lights on front. Must be the ballast? Tell me more about the conversion from Toshiba-to-Phillips lamp changeout, technically and economically. My son got me a universal/programmable remote (Logitech Harmony), and the installation instructions warned that if the firmware is not V.214 or newer, it probably won't work with the TV. How do I get the firmware version to come up on the screen? Lastly, are there any upgrades or revisions the service tech should be making via the serial port, i.e., one trip to fix everything? Thank You, Hans |
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Bronze Member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 12 Registered: Feb-06 | To FYI This must be Tom as you clearly don't come across well. First if you could read you would see that I clearly stated that I had a 1080i set. Maybe I didn't come across clearly? when I was referring to resolution when stating that a 720 is what it says 720-990,000 pixels and the 1080 is what it says 2 Million pixels = RESOLUTION. What else matters except resolution? Maybe the TV stations are only transmitting the lower resolution? The new DVD Movies are all supposed to be HD which I am told is 1080? I'm not saying I am right there either - that is why we post on a forum - TO LEARN. So it would be proper to tell someone that they were mistaken and go to ??? for proper learning. My set is looking brighter and clearer, just because I cleaned the projection lens. No dust -no dullness. Also, I wiped the old color wheel to see how dirty it was and the tissue was BLACK. My wife dust every day and we live in a low dust environment due to an electronic dust filter on our heating/air conditioning system and it was still very dusty inside. So in two and a half years the picture degraded. We didn't even realize how much until we cleaned it - Walla! a new TV. WE are hoping that the cheesecloth over the vent will cure 99% of that dust as it has in the past on my other electronic devices. Hope this helps and anyone that finds someone is miss-guided in their perceptions as HOW TO or FACTS, do pass on the proper information, we that visit forums hunger for the REAL FACTS. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 622 Registered: May-05 | Walter, Cool! I have respect for you. I find your posts helpful to others and funny at times. Anyone that ventures to replace color wheels and clean internals is ok with me. By the way, according to your first post your set is a native 720P display. I believe you stated that it was a Sammy 43. Until last year all Sammy DLPs were 720P displays. Now they make some 1080Ps too. The only 1080i (interlaced) displays are picture tubes. (CRTs) All HD micro-displays are (p)rogressive scan. (LCD, LCOS, DLP) If you see 1080i when pressing the information button it's showing you the incoming signal that it converts to 720P. The set can receive any signal format, but it can only display 720P because that's how it's made. Don't ever associate me with that psycho. He has been banned twice! I came on strong because you did...with false information and telling people they have been duped. Not cool. Sorry if I was too harsh. You said, "What else matters except resolution?". A standard definition 480i signal can be scaled to two million pixels. It's still a 480i SD resolution. It's just bigger! See what I mean? There is absolutely no guarantee that HD DVD will be 1080P. The new players will offer at least 720P and 1080i outputs as those are the widely accepted standards. Your cheesecloth idea is excellent if it doesn't restrict airflow. Ambient heat will kill the lamp quickly. People don't really understand that restricted air flow and dust kills a projector lamp. It slows the only cooling fan that keeps it from overheating. Dust also slows the only cooling fan for the DMD control module. A good cleaning every six months would be excellent preventive maintenance. This is not what old CRT owners want to here, though. Best regards! |
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Bronze Member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 13 Registered: Feb-06 | To ALL I HIGHLY recommend that anyone that owns or is thinking of buying a HDTV, especially a DLP go to <texasinstruments> and go through their very informative information. THey state, contrary to FYI's input, that TV Station are already broadcasting in 1920x1080i and will be airing in 1080P SOON! Those who already have 720-1080i, as I do, should be happy with what they have. Those who are going to buy NOW should consider nothing less than 1080P as DVD Movies are already made in that resolution. Why not spend the extra money and enjoy DLP for years. DLP's sets have already passed the 8.5 Million sets sold and are still supposed to be the best? I'm not running out and buy a 1080P as long as my Sammy works as beautifully as it does now. Someone (Tom) says - Why would anyone buy a Sammy when there is ?1785? complaints on this forum. Well, most of those postings, I find, are people trying to HELP people better understand this technology and guide them to help in repair, NOT 1785 Complaints and I think out of 8.5 million sets , that is a very small percentage, Don't you (Tom). For those in need, don't stop trying to find good answers and DON"T take just one opinion, check everything out. As for me, I am still learning with open ears and eyes. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 623 Registered: May-05 | Hans, It might just be the lamp. Have you tried your spare? You should always keep a spare lamp handy for your projector. I think www.samsungparts.com has the kit and some guy on here has an excellent post detailing what he did. I'll hunt a little for it. I believe it was in a thread called Phillips Lamp Compatibility or something like that. Harmony remotes are great. It will work. Don't worry about the firmware version. I don't know about any upgrades for your set, but he might. |
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New member Username: Bayoung63Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | Hello, I have a Samsung HLM437W with a sound problem. The sound stopped working through the TV speaker and now just a clicking sound comes out of the speaker. The service tech came out (89 bucks to show up) then said I needed a new Digital Board and that would cost about 700 bucks. I've hooked up the audio through my stero system so I have sound but the clicking sound doesn't go away. Any advise? Thanks, Bruce |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 625 Registered: May-05 | Walter, As I stated before, there are two HD resolution formats only, which have been broadcasted since the beginning of HD broadcasting. Contrary to anything Samsung may or may not state a 1080P signal requires substantially more bandwidth to transmit. This bandwidth is not available to any broadcasting network today. Don't look for a 1080P signal to be provided by any network for many years. Networks have already spent millions on either 720P or 1080i digital transmission equipment. Does anyone really think they will all suddenly abandon that gear and purchase 1080P gear even if they are ever allocated the bandwidth from the FCC? Manufacturer's promotion people will say anything to sell their products. Now, a better argument for buying a 1080P display might be that you want a bigger display because you sit back 12 feet or more in your viewing room. The additional lines are best utilized on large displays. That's why they don't make 1080P sets in 50 inch or smaller displays. Any benefit would be lost. Another argument might be that some 1080P sets will do a better job of displaying a 1080i signal. A 720P signal will simply be scaled up. Please, stop making reference to the banned person. |
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Bronze Member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 14 Registered: Feb-06 | FYI I stated that some TV Stations are already transmitting 1080P. This is directly from Texas Instruments NOT my ignorance or Samsung. Type DLP into your browser and read for yourself. While there you may want to check out all the DLP Movie Theaters. I have seen DLP presented movies in Los Angeles and I have to say that there is NO screen experience like it!!!!! They present it on the IMAX screen in Universal City. DLP is being shown in more & more cities every day. They, TXN, predict that ALL Movies will be shown in this format. Either 34 or 43 BILLION colors! Gad, It would take me 3 lifetimes to even count that high. I never new that there were that many colors in the Universe. The projectors use 3 TXN/DLP chips to accomplish that feet! By the way, where did you learn your expertise on DLP? When I watched a film on 1080i, from TXN, they showed how 1080i works and how it is interlaced in a double scan, a mystery to me. . My manual clearly quotes my set displaying 1920x1080i. Now, I don't know how they could print that and you say that is a analog CRT description? I talked to a Technician at Samsung and he said, My set produces 1080i. For all thats worth? Still learning, I think? Keep the input coming. For others wanting to know, WHY DLP, The Texas Instruments site tells the down falls of LCD and Plasma. Of course they want to sell their products, but, I have found NO untruths in what they say. LCD's do burn in and have a movement lag and plasma is half the brightness. Sony is supposed to be making a NEW LCD that is supposed to compete with TXN's DLP in the home and in the theater? Anyone seeing any information on those sets, give us a link. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 626 Registered: May-05 | I'm sorry fella! If you're going to continue down this ignorant path I'm about through with you. It doesn't matter what you read on a Texas Instruments web site, there is no station transmitting a 1080P signal nor will their be for quite some time. If you find one please, share it with us! I've read those web pages backwards and forwards. Please, provide the link and the direct quote you are referring to. You may just be confused. You can display a 1080i signal, but it has been digitally converted to your native display resolution of 720P. I've researched enough to know that there isn't a single DMD chip in any model that does interlaced scanning. You have not shared your Samsung model number with us, but I have narrowed it down to three. If you have the HLM4365 here is a direct quote from Samsung. "1280 x 720 resolution digital-conversion of all video inputs" http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/ArchivedTelevisions_2002/HLM4365WXXAA.asp If it's an HLM437W here is a direct quote from Samsung. "1280 x 720 resolution digital-conversion of all video inputs" http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/ArchivedTelevisions_2002/HLM437WXXAA.asp If it's an HLN437W here is a direct quote from Samsung. "Crystal Clear 1280 x 720P Resolution All format conversion to 720p" http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/ArchivedTelevisions_2003/HLN437W1XXAA.asp I'll bet it's an "M" model. You must have spoken to a Samsung tech with his head planted. Tell you what, guy, you just go on believing whatever you want to believe. Some of us know exactly what we are talking about and some of us have a lot to learn! I will rebutt your foolish crap if you keep putting it out. We don't need mis-information from anyone. The technology is confusing enough without your garbage. |
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Brentwood Steve Unregistered guest | As a follow up to my last post, A Samsung DigitAll Service tech came out as scheduled. Within five minutes, he diagnosed the problem with my HL-R5688W. The tech said that the HDMI adapter was not working properly but he was going to replace the entire "digital board" just in case. (I was thinking to myself, how could that be the problem when the problem occurs regardless of the source?) In any case, I had to leave the house before he finished so I couldn't ask him. According to the receipt, he replaced the following part: ASSY ENGINE P-DLP;56L7 (L780). Part number: BP96-01036B. It sells for $1,477.99 on Samsung's part website. Is this the infamous LE? The problem I was experiencing is now gone. However, just like Ryanb, I now seem to have another problem. When the set is on but no signal is coming through, like when the TV is on but the cable box is off, you can see many small faintly lighted "areas" or smudges scattered all over the screen. Most of them are in the top and bottom thirds of the screen. These lighted areas are about 1½" long, 1 inch high and have rounded ends. Many overlap. Their color resembles bones on a xray. They are visible regardless of the video source and are mostly noticeable when viewing a SD station where the black bars are on the left and right of the screen. I can't seem to notice them in the area where the picture is. I just know they weren't there before the Samsung tech replaced that part. I have already called Samsung and will be sending out another tech next week. I'll let you know what happens. |
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Indian Medicine Man Unregistered guest | You are very lucky. The service tech has installed what my people call "the Bone spirit-dance engine". They are very precious and rare and I am sure the technician will remove it when he realizes his mistake. In the meantime you should enjoy better than average health. |
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Bronze Member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 15 Registered: Feb-06 | Brentwood & Ryan If you were to double the 1 1/2" x 1" with rounded corners, you would be describing the Projection Lens. I believe that you will find that the Tech misaligned the Light Engine Chassis. That also causes black lines on one or both sides of your screen. My service manual, $22 form Samsung, shows how to align that chassis and Circuit Board, Again, Service Technicians are parts replacers and these sets are WAY over their heads as how to service them. Do let us know what the next Tech. tells you and how he corrected the problem. Hopefully he cleans that lens too. |
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Bronze Member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 16 Registered: Feb-06 | FYI Thanks for the CORRECT information via the web sites you submitted. Yes, we are all ignorant about this technology and are ever learning. That is why we visit these forums. I apologize to Ryan for misleading him, it was wrong information I was receiving and I was only trying to help. Maybe you could explain a couple of things I still have problems understanding. 1 - If I don't set my Satellite Dish to 1080i the picture degrades at 720P. 2 - My Operators Manual states under Aspect settings - Source DVI/Aspect/Wide(TV) 1920x1080i. This is one of the reasons I was let astray. My set is a HLN437W I replace the Color Wheel and after a proper Cleaning and Alignment it works as it did the day I bought it! That is why I went through the trouble of buying a Service Manual and fixing it myself. Of course, I saved over $400 too. I have posted about everything I know and didn't know and hope to just read and learn from others. So you probably won't hear anymore unless I have some NEW experiences. |
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CANF Unregistered guest | I hope this is not a duplicate. I'm new to this forum. I have read alot of the posts but like one said, it is getting quite long. I have just purchased 2/27/06 from BB a 42" samsung rear proj. HLR4266Wx I too have what I belive is a color wheel noise, and a vibration if you place your hand on the set. I did purchase the EW from BB. When I called them to see if I could have it replaced,(they had me call for service tech.)They did not have a replacement at BB. My question is should I have the tech come out to see what is wrong, or should I not have the tech work on it like another post said because it is under 30 days old? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks |
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Bronze Member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 17 Registered: Feb-06 | I'm sorry, but I have to put my 2 cents in on CANF's post. If I had just bought a NEW? set and wasn't 100% happy, I would make BB come and get it post haste! Maybe it was a demo? Problems from the git-go is a NO NO to me. Get your MONEY back and maybe buy a Sammy at COSTCO? You only have 30 days and then sadness of constant repair? My set is 2.5 years old and I have only had to replace the color wheel. Out of warrantee and a tech. told me a new board was $1800, I would trash it and buy NEW set for $1300, a no brainer. |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 627 Registered: May-05 | Walter, Thanks for your post! I was getting frustrated. I apologize! Most people have the opinion that 720P is better than 1080i because progressive scanning is smoother and faster. This is important for sports action and other fast action scenes. As I stated before, side by side most folks couldn't tell the difference if their lives depended on it. Your real question is, which device does a better job of scaling, the sat receiver or the television? Again, I doubt you can tell the difference. Most people believe the scaler within Samsung sets will do a better job. The proper setting for the sat receiver is to pass through all formats to allow the set to do the only scaling. If you have a specific format selected like 1080i then the sat box is scaling anything that's 480i or 720P to 1080i only to have the set rescale it to 720P. A single scaling process is better than two. That's why the pass through option is best. In Direct TV receivers it's called "ALL" with native "On" under Settings, Setup, HDTV, Resolutions. As for your operators Manual stating "Source DVI/Aspect/Wide(TV) 1920x1080i" maybe the key word is "Source". Best regards! |
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Silver Member Username: Helpful_smurfPost Number: 178 Registered: Jun-05 | CANF, The Best Buy you bought it from should happily deliver a new one and take the old one away at no cost to you. Call them (or better yet go into the store with your reciept) and tell them the unit arrived faulty and you would like an exchange by delivery. They will order a new one and deliver it to you at no charge. My store routinely does this, it's a customer satisfaction issue. So, ask and ye shall recieve. You should only have to deal with extended warrantee service after the return period (thirty days) is up. |
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CANF Unregistered guest | Walter & Smurf, Thanks for your input. I boxed it up and took it back to BB. With just a little hassle , one employee said the noise I hear is normal and not to worry about it, the second, the dept. manager said that he could not hear the noise. ( I too could not hear it with the background noise of the store on busy Sat. ) So, the dept. mngr helped me with a upgrade ( no 42" in stock) I stayed away from the DLP, did'nt want a chance of another noisy wheel. I purchased a Sony WEGA 50" rear projection LCD. The mngr. nocked off $150 of the sale price of the set and also gave me a free home install & inspection, to make sure I was happy with the new set. ( $100 value )I brought it home myself yesterday 2/4/06. Inspection follow up in a couple of days. After the hook up what a difference!! No noise ( no color wheel) fan is very quiet!. Picture is unbelivable! So far very happy! Of couse only one day. But, I only had day one on the DLP. So, thanks again to you both. Very happy with the Sony WEGA. CANF |
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Unregistered guest | For the record, this forum is great! I purchased a Samsung HLR6167W from CC on 2/23/06 and am experiencing a problem that has been previously posted without any replies. I am running my XBox 360 through the Component 1 input. When I shut my 360 down, the normal blue screen appears with the "No Signal or Weak Signal" message. At this point, the TV becomes unresponsive to any buttons from either the remote or the power/volume/channel/source buttons on TV (aside from the green Timer light that blinks in response to buttons pressed on the remote). If I restart my 360, video will display on the screen along with sound, but the "No Signal or Weak Signal" message will stay on the screen for 45-60 seconds before finally disappearing.I have found a workaround, which is to switch to another input BEFORE I shut down my 360, but this is a hassle. If I don't do this, my TV will stay locked up on the blue screen, and it requires me to unplug the TV to reset it. This is a CONSISTENT problem, and happens EVERY time. It seems to me that this would be a TV software issue (I'm a computer nerd by trade) and I would be open to any information or suggestions on how to remedy this situation. In the meantime, I will try different configurations (use S-Video, RCA, Component 2 input, etc. etc.) to see if it's consistent with other inputs and post my results. |
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New member Username: RyanbPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | Update on my situation...I had round circles, (almost perfect circles as if you bounced a baseball off of my set) about 20-30 of them that looked like little perfect clouds. I could only notice them with the tv on and when the screen was dark. The tech came out, couldn't fix it and said they had to replace the Optical Engine. Since that is probably the main piece to the tv, he said they'd get back to me letting me know if they'd do that or replace the tv. It's been two days exactly, at 10am on 3/8, and I haven't heard back yet on their decision. Btw, the original visit was for the annoying noise AND just last night, a week and a half after getting the new color wheel, I swear I heard that same noise for about 2 seconds while playing SOCOM3 on my PS2. More to come... |
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Bronze Member Username: DlpfreakParadise, CA USA Post Number: 18 Registered: Feb-06 | Ryan Don't you think it STRANGE that just having a Color Wheel replaced that you would encounter more problems? Maybe you should contact Samsung Technical and pick their brain on the matter. I would also request a different repair service. I would BET my bippie that it is NOT the light engine and just an alignment problem. I did my own Color Wheel replacement and after cleaning and alignment everything is perfect. They haven't changed the original color wheel, so we all will probably get the squeal back over time. Maybe 5 minutes or lucky like me, it took 2.5 years! I can't believe that Samsung is still making faulty color wheels after 6 years? My next set will probably be the NEW LCD Flat Pane (not projection) technology by Sony. 40+ inches and no moving parts. Do keep us posted as it makes a GREAT Soap Opera and teaches us the pitfalls of cutting edge technology. |
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New member Username: Brentwood_steveBrentwood, California USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | Just like ryan b, I now have an update. As a refresher, I had the digital board replaced on 2/27/06 and then noticed shapes, not circles, on 2/3rds of the screen, that could only be seen at night during a dark scene or when switching between inputs. A tech from Tekniton came out today, different repair shop from before, and just as he was about to close out the ticket as "problem could not be duplicated", I decided to cover the screen with a blanket and then look for the shapes. Sure enough, the tech finally could see what I was talking about. The tech said he wasn't sure which part was causing the problem but that he was sure it was coming from the light source. He ordered a light engine and in about two weeks he would call back to set up another appointment. I'll keep you posted. |
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New member Username: HansmeisterPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | Well, it seems I need some more advice. I have replaced the ballast and the lamp on my HLM507W, and get the three flashing lights after the unit tries three times to light up. |
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New member Username: MhuckerPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | Perhaps some of you on this board can help me: My Samsung hln-437w recently started to have the noisy color wheel issue. My TV is out of warranty, so I'm attempting to repair it myself. I purchased a replacement color wheel and am trying to swap it with the old one using some instructions posted on this site. I can not figure out how to access the color wheel. I opened the tv, removed the lamp, unscrewed everything, and slid the main board out. I located the color wheel, but its hidden behind and underneath a bunch of plastic shells and whatnot. The directions for "removing the top and front covers" make no sense. I have removed every screw in the vicinity and still have no idea how to access the actual color wheel. Maybe someone who has successfully undertaken this project can help me out, thank you |
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New member Username: MhuckerPost Number: 2 Registered: Mar-06 | Nevermind, I figured everything out. I wouldnt say that it is a very simple project. I found the service manual and some other instructions on AVS which were very helpful. The TV is working perfectly now |
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