Archive through July 27, 2006
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New member Username: ScondoNew York, Ny USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-05 | I have a 65" HD Mitsubishi (WS65807), which I think I got in 2000. Every so often the picture goes from perfect to an hour glass where the center looks fine but all of the edges distort outwards and split into the three colors R,G,B. It will do this for as little as a minute to all day. Is this worth fixing, I saw that repair kit on ebay is that the trick? Please Help!!! I love this TV!!! |
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New member Username: ScondoNew York, Ny USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Jun-05 | bump |
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New member Username: ScondoNew York, Ny USA Post Number: 3 Registered: Jun-05 | Help!!! |
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rtw224 Unregistered guest | Leo - I'm having the same problem with mine which is about as old your set. Do you have any idea which circuit board or part is the problem? I've been searching for info on the net but having little luck. |
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New member Username: ScondoNew York, Ny USA Post Number: 4 Registered: Jun-05 | No idea, I have given up so now I have a repairman from an authorized center coming July 7th I will post immediately what he tells me and what the cost is. So far $125 to come over!! |
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rtw224 Unregistered guest | Leo - Thanks. I've found some info on a tech board. Best I can tell it's some TV repair technicians discussing our model Mitsubishi "eating convergence modules". The part they're discussing is a STK392-570 convergence module. Don't know if that's the part number. I get the idea that this is somewhat common with our model. Enjoy your independance day holiday! |
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Unregistered guest | Gentlemen, I have the same problem. Just started yesterday - suddenly looked like picture was in 3D, convergence will not align. Ok when first start up, then goes again. I called Mitsubishi and all they could say was take it to a repair shop. I am in NM, and the closest authorized shop is about 100 miles! I hope you can find an answer and share. Thank you in advance. |
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rtw224 Unregistered guest | Gents, found and fixed the problem w/ the help of an experienced friend. We had to re-solder the circuit board that contains the STK392-570 convergence modules. They're on the center circuit board attached to an aluminum heat sink that's about 8" long and 6" tall, about dead center in the circuit board. All we really needed for equipment was some liquid flux, solder, cleaner, heat sink paste (to correctly bond the modules to the heat sink), solder pen & a phillips screwdriver. We were able to recreate the problem (hour glass effect) by gently moving the heat sink (which the modules are connected to). This would give us the hour glass effect on the picture and the advanced convergence screen. This was an indication that the modules pins weren't solidly connected (meaning soldered) properly. We removed the circuit board and the solder job was indeed weak. We cleaned the old solder off & resoldered the modules pins to the circuit board reconnected the board and then retested by again pushing on the heat sink. No distortion. We pushed harder than the original test but couldn't cause the hour glass effect. This is a case of a minimum effort (a.k.a. minimum cost) solder job, probably done in some 3rd world sweat shop. The "factory" job was good enough for 3-4 years but the heat (and these modules do create a lot of heat) and stress created from repeated use eventually takes it's toll, weakens the pin connections and our problem occurs. We took the appropriate cautions working around the high voltage of the set & used a non-conduting piece of wood to push the heat sink when we did our tests. Overall, this wasn't too difficult of a job but I wouldn't undertake this if you have little or no experience working w/ electronics & particularly circuit boards. Best of luck to all. |
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New member Username: ScondoNew York, Ny USA Post Number: 5 Registered: Jun-05 | Wow that's an amazing repair job you did rtw224!! What you say makes alot of sense. The hourglass starts after the TV been on for a few minutes. After that if I turn the TV on and Off it is still there, but if I let the TV cool off for a while it goes away only to return when the TV heats up. Thanks again, Still have the repair appointment I will let you know what I do... |
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Unregistered guest | I had the same problem and was able to repair it myself. I didn't have to re-solder the convergence modules based on my inspection but I did notice that the contact between the modules and the heat sink were poor and that the silicon used to help transfer heat was crusted up and sparse. So I cleaned off the old silicon and re-applied. You can buy this stuff at any computer store. It's used for the main processor and cooling fan. I hope this helps someone cause rtw224 post definitely help me and I want to thank you. I was about to give this tv away whereas now I can sell it and get some pocket cash. |
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New member Username: ScondoNew York, Ny USA Post Number: 6 Registered: Jun-05 | Well I had the repairman visit, Advisory Repair the only Authorized MItsubishi repair Shop in NYC. The repair man arrived on friday and of course the TV worked perfectly! When I explained the problem he said it was (Suprize) the convergence module. That part needed to be replaced. Of course he did not have the part. It will be at least 2 weeks before they get the part. I said, "well I tried to explain the problem to someone at your company, so that you could bring the part but no one would listen" He had no response for me. The TV then went into its hourglass thing and he says yes it's your convergence module. He then said try not to use your TV until he comes back to fix it because it could get damaged. I asked him why, how could this damage the TV. He had no answer, so I dropped it. He had no Idea how much it would cost, so I pressed him. He said he does not do the billing but it would be at least 400.00 Dollars. The only good news that I had was that I am still covered by my service contract!!!(Till Jan) I had no idea. So now I am like fix it, what do I care. But if I was not covered by the service contract, I think I would try to fix it myself. A new Mitsubishi 65" at bestbuy is 1899, I just don't think spending almost 500.00 on a repair is worth it, especially when the TV is 5years old. |
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MitsuMag Unregistered guest | This is the first time I have seen this info and a post to fix the problem. As you may guess, I have had the same "hour glass" effect/stretchy red-blue-green-lines for awhile. The unit is the Mitsubishi WS-55807, almost 4 years in service. The problem as some of you have said is the cost to repair this 2700$ investment of HD entertainment and never really saw more than a few HD programs because of the service on HD...everyone is not upto date even today... My problem continue for approximately 6 months then today it went dead...after starting up normal today with only a brief of 30 seconds hour glass/stretchy effects the unit ran fine for about 2 to 2-1/2 hours. I walked out of the room and came back to a powered down tv. Now, all it will do is power up and power off in two seconds... Is this the ultimate effects of these convergence modules? Now they are so bad the unit will not run? Do the modules have to be totally replaced? My 32 inch analog Magnavox still runs and it has been in service for 15 years and cost was only 300$ I do not feel this is a one in a thousand fluke/lemon television. I feel Mitsubishi is on to this gimmick to have service which cost 25% of a new television to repair by them for just a small soldering iron/flux&solder/two hours labor to fix...? Thanks for posting this info rtw224, the repairman will be pissed to know that people actually are beginning to catch on to their game...but, what you do in the Dark, one day will show in the light...;) |
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MitsuMag Unregistered guest | bump |
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RefereeDon Unregistered guest | Im having this same problem. While removing this middle board I remove all the screws and disconnect the wiring. I am having a problem with 5 wire tied type connections between the boards. Do these connections come apart or are they a warranty type tag? Do they have a specific name? Or, Do I have to remove all three boards together? |
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rtw224 Unregistered guest | RefereeDon, No need to remove all three boards. The connectors you describe are "jumpers" that connect the three circuit boards. I used a screw driver (standard) and gently pried on the ends to separate them. They just press in and pop out with a little force. Note that the screws that hold the large heat sink to the convergence modules also are used to fasten the center circuit board to the frame. |
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Unregistered guest | rtw22, thanks for the help I was able to remove the board with the stk392-570 to my suprise on of them said sample on it. Makes you wonder since this would have been the third time I would of had someone fix this mitsubishi ws65819. First time for power, second time for lines in the screen and now hour glass convergence problem. Since I have the board out Iam going to replace both chips get them online for 9-12dollars so its worth it. If it dont work screw it I will get a plasma and it wont be a Mitsashitzeee thats for sure. |
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New member Username: PdaltonFrisco, TX Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-05 | >> I am going to replace both chips get them online for 9-12 dollars If you don't mind, could you please tell me where to get the the chips and how to determine the specific chip numbers I will need for my 2000 VS50607? - Paul |
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Unregistered guest | This was really helpful to me. Thanks especially to rtw224. My 46805 was having problems with the Red vertical convergence giving out, and it turned out to be the solder connections on the vertical convergence amplifier (stk392-570). My advice to anyone seeing similar effects on this or other mitsubishi models using the same or similar circuit-boards, is to try this fix. It's worked great for me. And we probably only took three or four hours to do it despite having to open the TV up three times. In the process, I learned some things and would like to share them here. Specifically, it's possible to fix things with much less disassembly and reassembly than we did most of the time. So I'm going to outline my recommended process below in hopes that it is helpful to others who might be seeing the same problem. We only used a screw driver and a soldering iron. No other tools were needed. Obviously this should only be attempted by someone who is familiar with how to solder pretty well. Specifically, I would advise opening the case of the TV in accordance with the instructions in the service manual (which can be generally be bought for like $30 or so on-line, but to summarize is essentially, unscrew a lot of things until the light box (the part with the circuit boards and the guns)). If you have my same model of TV, there are also three screws in the plastic at the back of the circuit board area that aren't mentioned in the service manual. They may also be present and not mentioned for other models. Then, you can tip the light box up (making sure that there is no weight on any part of things other than the wooden box, you -do not- want to put any weight on any of the components) so that you can see the underside. Then you can locate where the convergence amplifiers are by looking for where the large heat sink on the top side and figuring out where it is on the bottom. The one which amplifies the vertical convergence is the one on the left when viewed from the top from the back of the television. Then you can examine the solder on the wires there, especially on the high numbered pins. The highest three are the amplified output signal and the several ones below that are various power inputs (24V and 34V positive and negative lines for the different channels). The power and the amplified signals are much higher voltage and amperage than the input signals, so those solder joints are more likely to have problems if they were not soldered quite right to begin with. In my case, some of them were sort of burned out looking and a couple of others had cracks in the solder which were preventing a good connection. So, look for that sort of thing. Assuming you find some, go ahead and resolder them. I advise erring on the side of more solder (and hence lower resistence and hopefully less heat) so long as you make sure not to solder any of the pins together. There are several of the pins which actually are wired to the same source, but they aren't adjacent (which is too bad since it would make guaranteeing a soldering which would stay together under heavy load). Keith |
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New member Username: KahanabobLahaina, Maui Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-05 | have a VS-60609. Same problem Horizontal bow and convergance out. Here is where I stand. found out that the CRT's have a liquid in them for cooling and they will drip right onto the circut board. You can inspect the CRT,s look for a drip comming off the metal part of the CRT. Mine driped all over my signal chasse. I am now in search of one little part Resistor??? A little black thing about 1/2" high. It got dripped on and one of the 2 wires comming out of it was burned thru. Where can I get this part????? |
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milehighmg Unregistered guest | Just wanted to write and confirm the finding and repair method by rtw224. Identical problem and solution. I took out the center board and resoldered the connections under the convergence modules and problem has been fixed. Once I took the board out and turned it over to look at the solder points I could see tiny cracks on the points. rtw224 Thank you so much for your post. |
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Unregistered guest | I was an authorized Mitsubishi servicer for many years. I can add some light to this subject. The STK type convergence amplifier IC's used in ALL mitsubishi projection TV's for the past 20 years have high failure rates. While the individual part numbers and circuit designs may differ, the IC's should always be replaced. Some models use two IC's and some use three, but you should change all of the STK's at the same time. You cannot reliably repair the connections on the IC's themselves and those who say that they have repaired connections on the boards have probably not fixed their problems. Because the failures are frequently intermittent, many people ignore the problems, hoping they will fix themselves. The biggest danger here is in damage to the CRT's if you get this wrong. I've seen MANY phosphor burn damaged CRT's where owners have chosen to ignore the problems or tried to fix it themselves and have done something wrong. Once the phosphor is burned, it is irreversable and few sets out of warranty are worth the cost of replacing the CRT's. I know people are trying to save money, but you can do much more damage in the long run if you don't know exactly what you are doing. For the guy whose CRT is leaking. Contact the manufacturer immediately. Most manufacturers will replace the leaking CRT's and damage to the set, even out of warranty. This is a safety issue and the manufacturers are very keen to resolve these problems quickly. |
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Unregistered guest | I have the VS-60609. Does anyone have an idea as to where I can find the circuit board for the section that connects to the Convergence IC? (The board to the left when you go into the back of the TV). What's the part number and general idea regarding price range? THaNKS |
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Mitsu wt46807 Unregistered guest | You might want to go to servicemanuals.net I bought an electronic manual that has a lot of Mitsubishi service information ($27.50) for some of the last few years. I verified my IC's using this. I pulled this below on your TV. "The Convergence Waveform Generator (IC800) is new (generic #CM0022AF). 2) The two Convergence Output ICs are replaced with a single IC (generic #STK393- 110). They would be mounted to the backplane of a large aluminum heat sink. My STK's for my TV were about $9 - $12. but expect to pay a minimum service of $25.00. |
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Unregistered guest | Thanks Mitsu! Is the "IC800" the entire circuit board? I need the entire board (because it was cracked). I have a new Convergence IC (#STK393- 110)that I will eventually install once I get the board. |
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Mitsu wt46807 Unregistered guest | Your board is part number 930B875001 ASSY-PWB-SIGNAL... everything is mounted to that board. not sure if there are sockets.. ic's etc. the manual that I have has every single component listed... good luck! |
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Unregistered guest | I HAVE THE mitsubishi VS-60609 and i was wondering why the screen jacks up when i use component cables when i turn on my xbox to use 480i,720i,1080i i was told when i bought this tv that it was HDTV is there something im doing wrong? |
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Unregistered guest | Greetings all - had the same hourglass bowtie problems as described above. I removed the middle circuit board, removed the two ICs - cleaned and resoldered them and reapplied new silicon putty and reassembled the whole thing. Fired the TV up and vioala - wonderful. Watched a movie - very pleased with myself and went to bed. I tried to turn on the TV the next night and it would turn on for about two seconds - audibly power the CRTs on and then turn itself right back off again. I thought I must have a faulty solder joint so I once again removed the middle board and sure enough - had a moving pin (third from the right - either number 3 or 15??). I desoldered everything and great - the solder pads for that socket came right off - but it doesn't appear to actually have a circuit wired to it at all - the only "empty" pin on the IC - so I figured whatever and resoldered everything and reinstalled - no go. Then I noticed the fun part - I had weakened the middle jumper between the input control (left) and CRT control (middle board). The frontmost two pins were snapped in half. Does anyone know where I can purchase these jumpers and if it is even possible to resolder them onto the leftmost circuit board? Can anyone comment on if the damaged jumper is a plausible explaination for the "power down after 2 seconds" symptom? Thanks much... |
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Unregistered guest | After purchasing a service manual and spending some quality time with it  What is damaged is jumper KD between the SIGNAL and POWER PCBs. Pins 1 and 2 are broken. This appears to me to carry the ground for some sort of audio signal - so makes sense that the system would shut down - am I off base? JD |
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shanetjonez Unregistered guest | cane anyone tell me how to program the original remote for a ws65807 to operate a dish network reciver and other equipmemt? thanks shane |
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Unregistered guest | I am looking for the Signal Board for the 60 inch VS-60609. The part number is 930B875001 |
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Unregistered guest | I have a WS65807 that has the 4:3 ratio picture burned in. I guess the doohickey that moved the picture back and forth to prevent burn in has gone bad. Can someone direct me to a website that addresses this problem? Of course my warranty expired in July so I am going to try to repair it myself. Any suggestions will be appreciated.:-) |
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AliceMitsubishiLover Unregistered guest | okay...can we explain this is girltalk. My convergance (by using adjust button) doesn't work I took the back off the TV and see a lot of heat sinks and stuff. Which one am I looking for to look for loose wires???? I love this TV |
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AliceMitsubishiLover Unregistered guest | okay...can we explain this is girltalk. My convergance (by using adjust button) doesn't work I took the back off the TV and see a lot of heat sinks and stuff. Which one am I looking for to look for loose wires???? I love this TV |
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Unregistered guest | My WS65807, when watching in the 4:3 ratio, has grey margins on the left and right side that used to,gradually, change in size. The movement was inperceivable and I assumed this movement of the image was to prevent burn in. Unfortunately I did not notice when the movement stopped working. But now I have a pink cast the size of a 4:3 ratio picture. When watching in 16:9 or HD, I can see the very slight pink field in the background. I assume something quit working and that resulted in the burned in color cast. If I can get the movement working again I am hoping the color cast will not get worse. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Any suggestions will be appreciated. |
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Unregistered guest | Rog... You have CRT phosphor burn, also called uneven phosphor aging. To my knowledge there is no circuit to prevent this type of problem built into the set. The only way to prevent the problem is to never use the set in an aspect ratio that doesn't completely fill the screen... period. That goes for ALL rear projection sets. The only repair is to to replace ALL three CRT's. IF you could find someone who would sell them to you (not likely) you would invest at least $900.00. The repair requires EXPERT KNOWLEDGE to replace and align the CRT's. For a dealer to replace, you are looking at $1200 bucks minimum. Sorry for the bad news, but the truth will set you free! |
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Rog Unregistered guest | Steve,Thank you for responding. I am afraid I may have to ditch this set in favor of a new TV. However, I know the picture was moving back and forth for 4 years and then stopped, thus the burn in. Do you know what made the picture move back and forth. Is it a mechanical or electronic function? Thanks again. |
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SteveLVNV Unregistered guest | If it had that feature, it is strictly an electronic function. I no longer actively work in the industry, but I can't recall this particular model having that feature. |
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New member Username: GundakaPost Number: 1 Registered: Nov-05 | Got the same problem with my Mits. big screen. I pulled the board out and there were bad solder joints at the STK part. so I removed all the solder and resoldered the part back.... the bad news was the leads are soldered at the other end to pads on the IC. that solder unsoldered and I had 6 pins that came off the IC. VERY BAD DESIGNED IC.... These connections should have been wire bonded and not soldered. I believe I will go ahead and replace the IC if I can find one. Anyone attempting to resolder the board connections I would strongly suggest not to over heat the pins to prevent the desoldering at the other end of the lead. Also if any pin exhibits movement during soldering that pins has probably already come loose from the device. Be sure to closely inspect the top side after soldering to make sure the pins look secured. GOOD Luck to All. Don't forget there is high voltage still in the set even if it is unplugged. |
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Unregistered guest | Hi I have a VS-4007R with a cracked convergence board. Where can I buy a replacement/substitute, and how difficult is it to install? Thanks -GW |
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New member Username: GundakaPost Number: 2 Registered: Nov-05 | Hate to discourage you but looking at many chat sites if the TV is 4-6 years old there may not be a board available any more. First I try walking into a TV repair shop that is an authorized repair shop for your brand and see if they can order one. They should be able to answer you in only a couple of days. If they don't try another shop. Maybe try calling the manufacturer. |
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Unregistered guest | I soldered the new chip but now on my uncle's ws65711, the damn timer keeps blinking and the tv won't turn on. Anyone have any ideas what could have gone wrong? Please tell ime it's something minor. |
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Unregistered guest | nevermind the last message. I didn't connect the power to the left circuit board. It was hidden behind something. The problem now is I still get the bowtie effect on all three colors now. The tv originally only showed a severe hourglass effect on Green where the picture for green was completely crunched towards the middle but now after I replaced the 393-110 all three colors are bowtied, not bad as it was on the original but still not a good picture. The middle looks okay but the top and bottom are bowed in. Is this a bad solder job? I've taken it off and resoldered twice now. I have a new chip ordered just in case I messed up the first chip. Could it be something else? Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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New member Username: Dr03Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-05 | Does anyone have any pictures of their progress with their convergence chips? also, how to remove the center circuit board. thanks. I am getting real close to cracking open my WS46807 but am wanting a good walthrough. |
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Unregistered guest | I put together a one page graphic that shows what the IC's look like and the basic board layout (excerpted from the manufacturers service manual). If you email me, I will send that out to anyone who wants it. Also, I have a complete set of schematics in PDF format for all Mitsubishi since 1999. The files are too large to email, but I'd be willing to copy and mail for a small fee. |
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Anonymous | I have an ws55809 with the same bowtie effect. I have removed the light box and inspected the conv IC's for bad sodier, however I see no problem there. I can dublicate the bowtie and a good conv simply by slightly moveing the heatsink that the ic's are attached to. Any suggestions |
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Unregistered guest | You can't tell anything by LOOKING at the IC's or the circuit board! The IC's are defective.... replace them! |
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Unregistered guest | I just wanted to thank everyone here. My WS-65819 started acting up several months ago - it would go in and out of "bowtie mode" for the first 15-30 minutes after it was powered on, but eventually would work fine. It got progressively longer until it stopped failing, so I decided to go ahead and try to fix it myself. With the help of the information here, I was able to remove and replace the two STK392-570's, and it seems to be working great now! I was able to desolder and replace the parts without removing the middle board from the assembly. I did it this way because I was worried about damaging the connections between the boards. Luckily the plastic frame is (just barely) enough out of the way that it can be done. I am having trouble getting the convergence perfect now, though. There's an area in the lower right hand side of the screen that's out of alignment, and it's between spots that the "advanced convergence" screen will let me adjust. If I adjust one side to make the middle perfect, the other side goes out, and vice versa. I've got a pretty good compromise now, but I'm wondering if there's any way to tweak it better. Thanks again! |
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dadeow Unregistered guest | I removed the middle cb, replaced the two stk 392-570's. TV works like a new one. Thanks for the assistance |
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Unregistered guest | Sounds like this is a problem many people are having. We've only had our Mits. T.V. for 3yrs. and the convergence on the right side is out. Can't fix it and have a repair man coming on Thurs. Mits. has got to know this is a problem. Imagine how many people are having this problem and aren't writing about it online. |
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Unregistered guest | I had the same problem with bow-tie on the edges for a few months back in 2002 in less than 2 years but no extended contract. Nothing was online at the time so it cost $ 500 to fix and has been okay since. Now, I only have 1 of 3 of my component inputs working for 1080i signals. I am now using a switch box for the components. Does anyone have this issue too???? Trying not to dump too much more money into TV because of how old it is 5 years. I don't think I'm buying a mitts next time for my 1080p. Any one has any info or suggestions or ideas or opinions? Overall thanks to everyone here with the same problems posting their issues with these TV's, it helps me stay sane. |
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Unregistered guest | I'm not sure if this helps or not, but I enjoy fornicating with fat chicks |
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New member Username: FranksPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-06 | I also had the "hourglass effect". I resoldered the pins of the convergence modules. Now the TV powers down after 2 seconds like a previous poster experienced. Should I replace them? Did they finally "go"? I double checked my solder job to make sure I had no bridges. |
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New member Username: RwmanningMonument, Co Usa Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-06 | Hello - I contacted SteveLVNV to make sure that my model 65809 used the same convergence IC's as thoes listed. We had a few e-mails and I then bought (ebay) a pdf service manual for about $11 delivered. I ordered the ICs from MCM (about $47 delivered). My 17 year old used the manual and removed the middle board in about 45 minutes. I had a technicial at work unsolder and resolder the new ICs. We took about 30 minutes to reassemble and it works better than if it were new!! Looks great. Thanks to all and to those just soldering or "moving around" - really replace the IC's. |
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Unregistered guest | where can I order some new IC's? |
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ghuin Unregistered guest | I have a WS65857. What would cause the picture to rapidly change betwwen color and B&W? Is there anyway it can be "home remidied?" Thanks! Sad mit owner! |
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New member Username: Charles328Littlestown, Pa Usa Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-06 | i have the ws65857 that we just added a hd tuner to. In the DTV mode everything looks green. I have adjusted the color, tint, sharpness and other adjustments but it is not what it should be. We have a service tech coming in on the 27th, any suggestions prior to the tech coming out. I spent $500 last year to have a tech fix the convergence problem so i don't want to shell out a lot of money for this old set. |
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New member Username: RwmanningMonument, Co Usa Post Number: 2 Registered: Jan-06 | Jtravis - I bought mine from MCM electronics. I had conversed with "SteveLVNV" who used to repair mitsubishis and he said to be careful not to buy the cheapest ones you could find on the web as they might be rejects. I got them in about a week later. I also bought a service manual on eBay (I can burn you a copy and mail it for $8 if you are interested - I don't know how large it is but I may be able to e-mail it as well). My son used this manual to disassemble the unit (which took him about an hour) then I had the IC's removed and reinstalled. I used new heat conduction material and we re-installed everything and it looks better than new! Bob |
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eedoc57 Unregistered guest | This type of exchange highlight the power of the internet. I have a MY2000, Mitsubishi WS-65807 TV with the "Bow-Tie" screen problem. I found the large 6"x8" heatsink on the center board as noted by rtw224. I plan to buy a Service Manual and replace the ICs pre SteveLVNVs recommendation. Having worked in an IC Failure Analysis lab for 10 years, I agree, after thermal stress to the point of solder fatique, the parts should be considered "walking wounded". My desire is to get a list of "Dos and Don't" from those of you who have already ventured in. In particular: 1. Any further advice on how to safely remove the jumpers. 2. Any "hidden screws" to be aware of when trying to free up the middle circuit board. (thought I remembered a posting noting heat sink screws were also circuit board mounting screws) 3. Any "High Voltage" points to stay clear of or be aware of. 4. Etc. Really appreciate any help. |
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Carhole Unregistered guest | eedoc57, I have started working on solving a bad IC problem with my Mitsubishi VS-50609. I removed the entire IC board from the chassis by carefully pulling off all of the jumpers and cable connectors. Some of them were rather tight so I used a set of needle nose pliers to aid in loosening them- one edge at a time so that they "rocked" out of their sockets. The IC heatsink screws do mount to the chassis on my TV. Removing them allows you to first remove the heatsink (do this by slightly rotating it so you break the vacuum created by the thermal compound) and then remove the remaining mounting screws that hold the circuit board down to the chassis. Two of the forward mounting screws required a stubby philips head screw driver to allow vertical clearance between the CRTs and the screws. Other than that, the board can be lifted out carefully giving you the freedom to work on it in a comfortable shop setting. My replacement STK393-110 has not come in yet as I only ordered it two days ago, however I chose electronix.com as my source. The part cost $19 plus $7 shipping USPS priority mail. Hopefully it will prove effective at fixing the convergence problem. I'll update after I do the repair. C |
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Carhole Unregistered guest | eedoc57- I forgot to add that you should certainly avoid making any contact with the anodes on each CRT (look for the scary fat red cables) and the flyback near the power board. Also beware of potential cuts you may get from scraping your knuckles on exposed pins and metal edges inside the set. |
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Unregistered guest | I just went through the above procedures to replace both Convergence IC's in my 55808 and the procedure worked great. I did order 2 new STK392-570 directly for Mitsubishi parts and paid about $40 per chip. I was afraid of getting poor quality parts. Looking at previous postings, there may be other places to get quality ICs at a bit better price. To answer your question: 1. I used a flat bladed screw driver and "popped" each side up. Once started they come fairly easily. 2. This may have be more work that necessary but I removed the entire plastic tray with all 3 boards on it. Of course I had to remove all the jumpers and connectors. By removing the entire board I was able to get at the board jumper connectors much easier and also see all the screws to remove the middle board from the plastic tray(about 10 screws.) 3. Not sure I am qualified to answer this question correctly. I did not mess with anything I didn't have to. After assembly I did have to readjust all the convergence settings. This may be because I had tried to adjust them prior to replacing the chips. I used the service manual I purchased on e-bay for $11 (incl. Shipping) to set the all back to factory settings and then just a few minor adjustment and bingo, perfect picture. New soldering iron -----$40 Time spent on repair-----4 hours Fixing my TV and getting my nagging wife off my back ..........priceless ;-) |
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Carhole Unregistered guest | Tonight I replaced the Convergence IC in my VS-50609 and the the TV now works, however it's only in black and white. Anyone know what might be the problem? S-Video and composite in both show the same thing... nice picture but no color. When in menu mode I see full colors on the menu options. Ideas? |
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New member Username: HidefPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | Anyone out there in the Chicagoland area that wants to fix my WS-65807 "Bow-Tie" problem for $200 and a few beers? |
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New member Username: VenturarickVentura, CA USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | I just fixed the bowtie problem on my TV yesterday. Let me add a few pieces of information that might help. First, remove both the back cover and the speaker cover in front and remove the fiberboard cover underneath the speaker cover. This gives you a clear view of the large heat sink on the middle circuit board and the clamp that holds the two large STKs against the large heatsink. It might be easier to remove the three screws on the clamp from the front of the set. Then remove the large heat sink. If you do these things first, it really gives you a much better view of all of the connectors and hold-down screws on the middle cb. Don't worry about the heat transfer paste. You need to replace it anyway. As mentioned previously, use a blade-type screwdriver to disconnect the ribbon connectors (2 on one side and 3 on the other side). These guys are a little delicate so don't manhandle them. After removing all of the hold-down screws (don't forget the ones around the RF shield? and the one in the center of the board) push back the two plastic keepers on the front side of the board (nearer the CRTs) and slide the board back and away from the tuner side. You'll probably have to grab a heat sink or something else to get a hold of the board to lift it up. I looked at the solder joints on the STKs with a jewelers loupe. it made it pretty easy to see all of the cracks. It was pretty obvious there were problems here. I did not replace the STKs. By the way, before starting, I did push the large heat sink on the STKs gently back and forth to demonstrate to myself that I could make the problem appear and disappear. If you are experienced doing work like this, the job is pretty easy. If you are a novice, keep track of everything you remove, and you might want to color code the connectors (not the ones on the side) with different color marking pens to keep track of the direction and placement of the connectors. Don't use a hot gun. I used a 15 watt iron to help ensure I would not overheat anything. Also, as soon as the solder flowed, I removed the heat. No reason to take an unreasonable chance of overheating a component. A lighted magnifying lamp is a real aid if your eyesight isn't super. |
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New member Username: Bama36Mobile, Alabama Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | Good Morning, The internet is really amazing isn't it? Found this site while searching for Mitsubishi problems. I have a VS50501A which has developed the same convergence issues. Looking inside it appears that the correct board with the heat sink and ic's is located standing up on the right side (looking from the rear). Has anyone made the ic swap/resolder job on this model? Any tips, suggestions or warnings? Thanks in advance for any help. |
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New member Username: SkslvnvPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | Rick, You are taking a HUGE risk by not replacing the IC's. While it's true that solder connections around the legs of the IC's commonly develop cold solder connections, the majority of the connections on the IC substrate cannot be seen. They are encapsulated inside the epoxy sealed case of the IC's. You are taking the risk of the IC's shorting internally. If that happens, you could cause damage to the power supply or worse still, permanent damage the CRT's. The engineers designed this IC amplifier to operate near it's tolerance for current and heat. Everyday use for several years puts a huge strain on these IC's. I can guarantee you that internally, this IC still has bad connections and will fail. For what they cost, it isn't worth taking a chance in my mind. I was an authorized Mitsubishi servicer for over 20 years and I know what I'm talking about. I'm afraid you've put a bandaid on something that really needs surgery. By the way, I don't own stock in any IC manufacturing company! Read back through the thread to see my other comments on this problem. |
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New member Username: PlaneracerPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | Just solder a broken ic pins around a ic8001 and ic8002. If somthink will happen with ics, they will blow 2 fuses on +26 and -26v lines.But, 80-90% of time just a bad solder connections |
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New member Username: JcmcteLaVergne, TN USA Post Number: 1 Registered: May-06 | I have the Mitsu model WS65857. Could someone tell me where to order and the part numbers for the ICs that I need to fix the hour glass problem that I am having. Thank you. |
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New member Username: SkslvnvPost Number: 2 Registered: Mar-06 | Jeff, I have that information in a word doc format. Send me an email and I will send it out to you. |
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New member Username: Zoom38New York Post Number: 1 Registered: May-06 | I have a Mits VS-50707 about 5 years old. I've been having problems with the picture for about a month or so. When the set is cold and you turn it on the screen has horizontal lines across it and a little jumpy. When it warms up after an hour or so the lines go away most of the time but the pic is slightly blurry and jumps sometimes. I had a serviceman come out an take a look and he believes its the two chips (STK392-110) and said it will be about $300 to replace. He also said that this might solve the problem and it might not be the only problem with the set. He pulled the convergence on screen and showed me that it was way off and would not be able to be fine tune adjusted. Is it worth $300 to fix? Im thinking on buying the chips (about $15 each) and give it a shot myself it doesn't appear that difficult to get the chassis out. Or should I go out and spend a fortune on a DLP? Thanks |
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New member Username: SkslvnvPost Number: 3 Registered: Mar-06 | The VS-50707 is a VZ8 chassis built sometime in 2000. To replace the convergence IC's is fairly straight forward, however as with anything, there could be technician alignments or adjustments needed afterward that you would not be able to easily accomplish. On this particular model, you could get in over your head. Usually a set that is 5-6 years old is worth a $300 repair, especially if it has given you good service up till now. I'm not a particular fan of DLP, so I am the wrong person to give you an opinion on that one. |
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New member Username: Zoom38New York Post Number: 2 Registered: May-06 | Well I changed the two STK392-110 chips for my Mits VS-50607 but that didn't seem to solve my problem. The clarity cleared up, the picture isn't blurry anymore but the picture rolls. Sometimes when the picture stops rolling there are horizontal lines across the middle. Anyone have any ideas on how to correct? Thanks Gary |
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New member Username: Notloc99Post Number: 1 Registered: May-06 | Gary, I may have an answer. I had a rolling & line problem when the set was first turned on (VS-60607) (When the set was cold) ... I located 3 smaller heat sinks on the right side of the left circuit board (I have just 2 boards). I heated them with a hair dryer and the picture cleared, The the next day I hit each one with a soldering iron until the picture cleared again. Even though I found the bad one I replaced all three of the rectifiers (sp?) those 3 heat sinks were attached to (Total cost $7) Problem 1 solved about a year ago now ... Well today I am back looking to find the hour glass problem fix (New problem). STK329-110, I need two of them it would seem. So now I will be off to find those lil buggers and give er a try. Where did you get yours? And let me know if that hair dryer thing works. I can take a picture of the area and e-mail you. PS, It is a bit tricky of a desoldering/soldering job to replace those rectifiers, But Not so hard a careful person with some skill can't accomplish. I cant quite recall the sizes of the rectifiers, 1 5v?, and maybe 2 9vs?. Radioshack carried one of the ones I replaced. Hair dryer ... lol, Now theres a trouble shooting tool for ya. Mark |
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New member Username: MobiusPost Number: 2 Registered: May-06 | yeha where are you gusy getting these parts from? i have the hourglass problem and want to fix it as well... how much is the whole board or do you have to solder the new components in? just ordered the service manual off of ebay so i can see what you guys are talking about. |
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New member Username: MobiusPost Number: 3 Registered: May-06 | just looked up my warranty info and appears it is still under extended warranty... guess i will call tomorrow to schedule a visit |
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New member Username: Zoom38New York Post Number: 3 Registered: May-06 | Mark I bought my STK392-110 's from electronix.com, $9.98 each. I posted on allexperts.com inquiring about the lines and i was advised to do the following: 1. CHANGE C2P05 100 UFD 16 V OFF PIN 3 OF IC2P01 (9-VOLT REGULATOR) ON THE SIGNAL PCB. 2. CHANGE C2P08 100 UFD 16 V OFF PIN 3 OF IC2P03 (3.2 VOLT REGULATOR) ON THE SIGNAL PCB. Radio shack didn't have them so I ordered them from bigdaddy-enterprises.com. I havn't received them yet. If I change these and my problem isn't solved i'll try the hair dryer method(whatever works). I'll keep you posted. Gary |
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New member Username: Notloc99Post Number: 2 Registered: May-06 | Thanks Gary, I will look there. I did the All Experts as well. http://experts.about.com/q/TV-VCR-Stereo-1749/Mitsubishi-VS-60607-Picture.htm We worked through e-mail a bit, But had no luck. He was a great guy, We tried so many things I can't remember ... lol. I just happened to decide to warm up areas of the board to see what may happen, And the heatsinks when warmed would clear the picture. Once I found the problem, It wasn't too bad to fix. Good Luck, I hope you get that thing fixed, It drove me nuts. Mark |
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New member Username: Notloc99Post Number: 3 Registered: May-06 | Gary, Thanks for the link to buy the IC's, They were cheaper $4.99 ea, I installed them last night and picture seemed fine when I went to bed. When I had the board out, I remembered those other parts were Voltage regulators I replaced, So I hope that does get you taken care of. Thanks to the board for the help. Mark |
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New member Username: MobiusPost Number: 4 Registered: May-06 | hey guys i had the guy come out and fix it under warranty. all he did was resolder the connections. i asked him about replacing and he said it is not necessary.... oh well at least it is fixed took him less than 20 min... |
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New member Username: Zoom38New York Post Number: 4 Registered: May-06 | Mark, I changed the two capacitors that allexperts advised and that stopped my rolling picture problem. After a few minutes the tv shut down and would not restart and I could smell something burning. I unplugged it for a few minutes, plugged it back in and wouldn't you know it, the bow tie is back. I guess I didn't do a good job when I put in the STK's. I'm going to try it one more time. For now I will keep the blow dryer in its holster. Where did you get your STK's for $4.99? Gary |
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New member Username: Zoom38New York Post Number: 5 Registered: May-06 | My mistake, I bought my original STK's from electronix at $9.98 for two ($4.99ea). |
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New member Username: CharliewardsPost Number: 1 Registered: Jun-06 | Hi Guys - great messages. I've got an OLD vs-4517s which is hourglassing. A guy at Hometheaterspot gave me the following advise: "But it's probably in need of the STK chips for the convergence output. As I recall, the convergence board slides out of the set on the lower right side after you take the speaker baffle off of the front. There may be three STK chips. Two are the convergence outputs, and have the same part number (I think it's STK-3873). The other STK is the magnetic focus amp, and rarely went bad." Are the STK chips easy to find when I open up the set? How do I know which are the convergence and which is the focus amp? |
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New member Username: Zoom38New York Post Number: 6 Registered: May-06 | Well I put my second set of stk392-110's in my Mits VS-50607 and I still have the bowtie effect and the convergence is off. Anyone have an idea on what might be the problem? Another capacitor maybe?? Gary |
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New member Username: Notloc99Post Number: 4 Registered: May-06 | Gary, I found this on another site. Could help? The lower price has me thinking these are Generics ... Mine worked for awhile, Now are intermittent ... I see Sanyo makes the same IC, Higher price ... But IC cost is not an issue when we are talking replacement. http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog_name=MCMProducts&product_id=STK392-1 10 Anyone have any advice/opinions on brand of IC's? From another site: This is a list of almost all Mitsubishi CRT HDTV's and their convergence IC's part number. The chassis number is listed first with all model numbers beneath. The text in bold below the model numbers is the actual part number for the convergence IC. Some chassis use two ICs and some use just one. If you are ordering new ICs then it would be good to order the right quantity. When replacing IC's in many applications it is normally ok to substitute generics. However, for convergence IC's Genuine Mitsubishi Parts must be used. This is because most (many/all) of the generic IC's are supposed to be direct substitutions but they are not! Robert Vermazen has explained that the generic IC's are of lower quality and will induce spurious oscillation into the signal. This will be apparent because the red CRT will have dark streaks in random areas of the screen that can be moved around with the FINE convergence adjustments. These streaks will look similar to CRT burn. Also, the generic IC's will never allow for proper convergence. On the red CRT the top left and bottom right will never converge while on the blue CRT a vertical stretch left of center will never converge. Generic IC's may not allow for reduced overscan (4-5%) either. When reducing overscan and correcting geometry, the TV may shut down repeatedly making it impossible to ever make corrections. Furthermore, the generic IC's are prone to failure while the Mits IC almost never fail. To order the convergence IC's from Mits call 1-800-553-7278. Mitsubishi Convergence IC Part # List (complete) Ref # / Part # / Part Name & Description CHASSIS: VZ7 MODELS: VS-45605 / VS-50605 / VS-50705 / VS-55705 / VS-60705 / VS-70705 IC8C01 267P141030 HIC- STK392-110 IC8C02 267P141030 HIC- STK392-110 CHASSIS: VZ8 MODELS: VS-45607 / VS-50607 / VS-60607 / VS-50707 / VS-55707 / VS-60707 VS-70707 IC8C01 267P141030 HIC - STK392-110 IC8C02 267P141030 HIC - STK392-110 CHASSIS: VZ9 MODELS: VS-45609 / VS-50609 / VS-55609 / VS-60609 / VS-60719 / VS-70709 IC8C00 267P155010 HIC - STK393-110 CHASSIS: VZ6-V15 MODELS: VS-70803 / VS-80803 / WS-65903 / WS-73903 IC8D01 267P120010 IC-H STK392-040 IC8D02 267P120010 IC-H STK392-040 MODELS: VS-50800 / VS-50803 / VS-60803 IC8D01 267P120010 IC-H STK392-040 IC8D02 267P120010 IC-H STK392-040 CHASSIS: V16 MODELS: VS-50805 / VS-60805 / WT-46805 / WS-55805 / WS-55905 / WS-65905 / WS-73905 IC8D01 267P120010 HIC - STK392-040 IC8D02 267P120010 HIC - STK392-040 CHASSIS: V17 MODELS: WT-46807 / WS-55807 / WS-55857 / WS-55907 /WS-65807 / WS-65857 / WS-65907 / WS-73907 IC8C01 267P150010 HIC - STK392-570 IC8C02 267P150010 HIC - STK392-570 MODELS: WS-55908 / WS-65908 IC8C01 267P150010 HIC - STK392-570 IC8C02 267P150010 HIC - STK392-570 CHASSIS: V18 MODELS: WT-46809 / WS-55809 / WS-55819 / WS-65809 / WS-65819 IC8C01 267P150010 HIC - STK392-570 IC8C02 267P150010 HIC - STK392-570 CHASSIS: V19 MODELS: WS--55859 / WS--55909 / WS--65869 / WS-65909 / WS-73909 IC8C01 267P155010 HIC - STK392-110 CHASSIS: V20B MODELS: VS-A50 / WS-A48 / WS-A55 / WS-A65 IC8C01 267P141030 HIC - STK392-110 IC8C02 267P141030 HIC - STK392-110 CHASSIS: VK20 MODELS: WT-42311 / WT-A42 IC8C01 267P141030 HIC - STK392-110 IC8C02 267P141030 HIC - STK392-110 CHASSIS: V20 MODELS: VS-50111 / VS-60111 / WS-48311 / WS-55311 / WS-55411 / WS-65311 / WS-65411 / WS-73411 IC8C01 267P141030 HIC - STK392-110 IC8C02 267P141030 HIC - STK392-110 CHASSIS: V21 MODELS: WS-48511 / WS-55511 / WS-55711 / WS-65511 / WS-65611 / WS-65711 / WS-65712 / WS-73711 / WS-B55 IC8C01 267P155010 HIC - STK393-110 CHASSIS: K20 MODEL: WT-42313 / WT-42315 / WT-42413 IC8C01 267P173010 HIC - STK394-250 IC8C02 267P173010 HIC - STK394-250 CHASSIS: V22 MODELS: WS-48313 / WS-48413 / WS-55313 / WS-55413 / WS-65313 / WS-65413 IC8C01 267P173010 HIC - STK394-250 IC8C02 267P173010 HIC - STK394-250 CHASSIS: V23 MODELS: WS-48513 / WS-48613 / WS-55513 / WS-55613 / WS-55813 / WS-65513 / WS-65613 / WS-65713 / WS-65813 / WS-73513 / WS-73713 IC8C01 267P173010 HIC - STK394-250 IC8C02 267P173010 HIC - STK394-250 CHASSIS: V24 MODELS: WS-48315 / WS-55315 / WS-65315 IC8C01 267P173010 HIC - STK394-250 IC8C02 267P173010 HIC - STK394-250 CHASSIS: V25 MODELS: WS-48515 / WS-55515 / WS-55615 / WS-55815 / WS-65515 / WS-65615 /WS-65815 / WS-73615 IC8C01 267P173010 HIC - STK394-250 IC8C02 267P173010 HIC - STK394-250 |
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New member Username: Notloc99Post Number: 5 Registered: May-06 | Charlie On my set they are (from rear) on the far left side under the long aluminum heat sink. I would say only the speaker and Hillary are that far left :o) ... As far as I "assume" both under that heat sink are the convergence IC's. Mark |
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New member Username: Hkmark24Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-06 | If anyone has questions about fixing the hour glass effect on a ws-55809 (other models may also apply) feel free to e-mail me for pictures of where these things are located at least on the ws-55809 model. The pictures I took were to large to post but I have labeled where the parts are. I just had mine fixed by Sears and found out you can order the parts through them. The list of parts that Mark posted above has the parts numbers that you need to type in the parts order section of the Sears website. <http://www3.sears.com/> The I/C amps themselves only cost $45.30 a piece. It cost me a total of $312.25 to have Sears repair the problem and I had both convergence amps fixed even though only one was bad. I did this because it does not look like they are an easy thing to replace and I known very little about electronic problems. <hkmark23@msn.com> This is my e-mail address |
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New member Username: Dpage391Ft. Washington, MD Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | Can anyone give advice on a problem with a Mitsubishi Big Screen TV (Model # VS-60607)? A technician cmme out yesterday (7/10) and his conclusion is that the convergence I/C and the power supply are bad and need to be replaced. He gave an estimate of $750 to repair. Can anyone refer me to a servicer in the Washington DC Metro area who may be more economical and may provide free diagnostic, pick-up and delivery or even free pick-up and delivery? |
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New member Username: NogeniusPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | everyone, thanks for these posts! i am almost to the point of trying it myself on my hourglassing mitsu vs45603. in my case tapping the heat sink has no effect and i see no evidence of cracked solder. so i'm planning to replace the stk392-110's. my questions: which brand stk's should i order? which supplier is a good choice? from these postings i gather that it's worth a shot but i'm wondering about the success rate of stk392-110 replacement. |
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New member Username: UscmdM.V., Ca U.S. Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | Hi. I'm having a similar problem, I think. My distortion is more like an hour glass on its side. The top and bottom are edges are distorted inward. A straight line showing on the bottom of the picture, bends upward in the middle. I do have the color seperation mentioned. Mine is a WS 65857, that worked fine until a week ago. The problem is intermittent. Typically begins when I turn the set on. Is this the same phenomena? Thank you Doc |
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New member Username: Andy57sJackson, New Jersey USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | Started having the convergence problem on my VS-45609. Had the same thing happen 2 years ago, but under warranty. At first is was intermittent, after the set heated up, now the Blue and Yellow are always off (Bow-tie Affect). Questions, 1) It has a CM002AF and a STK393-110 listed on the convergence circuit. Should I change both of them? 2) I see that some people say only to buy the Mitsubishi Parts. Are they superior to other devices that can be bought from MCM Electronics? 3) Can I take out the whole chassis and turn it over to unsolder the chips or should I try to just remove the circuit board? Thx, Andy |
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New member Username: IvarPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | Hi everyone. This page is great. I have read over and still have a question. I have WS-65809 with convergence amp problem, but now TV automatically turns off when trying to turn tv on. If the convergence amp is replaced will this take care of turn off problem? Also called tech that looked at my TV. and he seemed to imply that some adjustment would need to be made after amp was put in and that only a tech could do this. What is this about? Will I be able to figure out which convergence amp is bad? I take it that there are two or should I try one and if it does not work try the other? Is there a way other than this? Any help is appreciated. Also will I did a shop manual to do this job? My friend who is handy with tv's will be helping me. Also where should I buy the part Thanks. |
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New member Username: MickeynguyenTallahassee, FL USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | I have the WS-65809 also and just finished the repair of the convergence amplifier with the help from this page, of course. The TV works great now. I did not have the power down problem as Ivar has though. Here is the desciption of my original problem: Side-way hour-glass for a few minutes for about a month then line-noise accross the screen that wouldn't go away. Here is what I did to repaired it: First I opened the unit and just jiggle the heat sink that the STK392-570 amp connected to. It seem to fix the problem but I decided to ebay the chips and replace them anyway (Item number: 320002236727 on ebay). I notice that near the edge of the screen ther was a slight bending of the picture with the old chip, this problem goes away when I replace the chip. I also bought the service manual in .pdf format but I didn't need it to perform the repair. I don't recommend do this repair if you are not familiar with soldering equipments and techniques You will need a soldering iron, solder wick, solder, heat transfer paste, screw driver and a low profile philip head screw driver (hopefully a small hand also for getting to some of these screws). Lucky for me, I borrowed all the material from my job for the weekend. Here is a quick description of what I did: 1. Remove the fron speaker-grill and wood panel. 2. Remove the rear panel 3. The convergence board is the big board in the center. Remove this board can be a little pain in the a**, but be patience. 4. You will need to remove three (3) screws that holding the clamping bar to the heat sink. You can access this to the front. After you remove the bar you should be able to see the part number STK392-570 on the chips. Remove the screws (2) that hoding down the heat sink to the tray. I. There are 5 screws holding the board down (4 corners and a center screw). 4. If you are looking from the back of the TV, on the left hand side of the convergence board, you will need to remove two (2) more screws holding down a metal shield. To the left of this shield you will notice a jumper connector that almost impossible to get to in order unplug it, just remove the plastic holder (triangular shape) so you can get to the connector. 5. Unplug all the connectors (mark them unless youhave very good short term memory), BE CAREFUL HERE. There are 5 plugs toward the front of the board. One (1) power plug on the right side. Five (5) little white jumper connectors, these should be pulled straight up(you can rock them side to side a little to loosen them up), DON"T USE TOO MUCH FORCE, the little tabs on the side are easy to break off. 6. There is two (2) hook-tab toward the front of the board, you can press these in and lift the board then slide it toward the front just a touch. Now lift the back of the board and take it out from the rear. My first impression is the solder quality is not so great. I immediate notice there were 3-pins on the chip where the solder crack (definetly thermal stress). The application of the solder paste were lousy which did not help proper heat transfer from the chip to the heat sink. You want a thin, uniform thickness film of the paste on the back of the chip. I replace both chips (won't bor you with soldering/de-soldering method here) I hope this help some of you. My e-mail is mickeynguyen@yahoo.com or Yaho! IM 'mickeynguyen' if I can help you further, this page saved me a few bucks already. Gook Luck |
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New member Username: NogeniusPost Number: 2 Registered: Jul-06 | hello all, with high hopes and nothing else pressing i got to it this sunday on my vs 45603. the stk392110's are in and the set,unfortunately, is about the same. Still hourglassing and still color separating, still unable to adjust the convergence. i used sanyo ic's and took my time with the soldering so that part is probably okay. WHAT GIVES? PLEASE HELP? WHERE IS SKSLVNV? |
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New member Username: Andy57sJackson, New Jersey USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Jul-06 | Hello, I have the VS-45609 TV, I am going to replace the STK393-110 Convergence Amp. The manual states to Discharge the High Voltage from the High Voltage Cables by Shorting them to Ground. How do I do this? When I pull them Out, are they charged ? Can you get Hurt pulling them out or are they protected from discharging? Do I have to worry about the PCB HV Block having a charge? Should that also be Discharged? Thx and Paranoid, Andy |
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New member Username: NogeniusPost Number: 3 Registered: Jul-06 | Disassembly info for those with vs45603 follows. Remember: Stay away from the fat high current cables! Even when the set is unplugged the high output capacitors hold juice! for this model the convergence modules are on the left board stuck and clamped to the long heat sink. 1. gently pry/pull off all the multiplugs. there are seven on my model. all are of different length so no need to label them 2. remove the bracket attached to the back of the heat sink. 3. now you can find and unscrew the three screws at the base of the heat sink. 4. opposite these,are three more screws at the right edge of the board. 5. lift and ease the board out. good luck |
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New member Username: Swin_manPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | Hi Everyone, In responce to Ivar Roth's question. I had the hour glass effect on my tv as well and the colors were seperating so I read everyone's post and decided to go ahead and try to replace the STK392-570 ic's. I put everything back as they were and now my tv will only stay on for about 3 seconds and then shut off. I am going to take it back apart and use an ohm meter to make sure I have all good connections. I will put up another post if I can get it working by doing that. If anyone has any more idea's why this would do this please respond. |
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New member Username: MickeynguyenTallahassee, FL USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Jul-06 | Hi Mike, Check the power connection. This should be on the right side of the board (looking in from the rear). The connector only has two wires on the board. |
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New member Username: Swin_manPost Number: 2 Registered: Jul-06 | Yes Mickey, That is connected. I took board out again and noticed that one of my solder connections was not making contact with the board so I scratched of some of that coating on the board and reordered it and put everything back again. It still goes off in 3 seconds. This heat sink is so big that every time I connect it to the circuit board I think it is breaking some of my joints and I wait till last to tighten it to the Convergence Amp's. If you ask me this is very poorly designed. |
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New member Username: JlensboPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-06 | Boy, I'm glad I found this message board! I've just received a Mitsubishi VS-50707 (50 inch). The screen is very pale and, after it warms up there are faint red curved lines across the screen. I also have no remote control and was wondering if I can use P-I-P without it? |
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New member Username: Andy57sJackson, New Jersey USA Post Number: 3 Registered: Jul-06 | Problem: (Pictures Attached) Started having the convergence problem on my VS-45609. Had the same thing happen 2 years ago, but under warranty. At first is was intermittent, after the set heated up, now the Blue is always off (Bow-tie Affect). Solution: I received the Mitsubishi STK393-110 (Yes, I paid extra for the Mitsu Part) and installed it today. Everything went fine, but it didn't fix the problem. It is exactly as before Blue Bowtie effect. Swapped the 4 pin connectors that go to the green & blue. The green bowtied, blue was OK, proving the Convergence Blue circuitry was not working between the STK chip and the Guns. Decided to measure the 4 pin connectors to GRD. Blue was higher resistance on 2 of pins than the red/green. Measured components, they were OK. Connector VU had cracked joints. Checked all the other thru-hole connectors, at least one cracked joint per connector. Resoldered every Thru-Hole connector. TV picture is back to normal. I owe a lot to SteveLVNV, He is the Expert and helped me through all the diagnosis. Moral, replace STK & touch up ALL solder joints (especially connectors) on these TV's Thx to all, Andy    |
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