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New member Username: Bevills1Post Number: 4 Registered: Jun-06 | Info at http://checkhere22.com/stabilizer/ states that stabilizer doesn't work with LiteOn and 5 other recorder brands. This same device was found for $23 at another site which which may be the 1 some here got that didn't work. It'd be worth getting 1 for under $30 if it works, but I'm very skeptical about any since the firmware hack should've worked but didn't. I'm uninterested in a $30 paper weight, which a video stabilizer that's supposed to work but doesn't, may well be! |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2726 Registered: Jul-04 | If you want something that will work, spend more and get the GoDVD. You should be safe with that. I've seen them for around $50-60 on ebay. That other one looks like the one L Thompson said didn't work. I've got one that looks close to that which works on everything I've tried it on, maybe they've changed them though. |
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New member Username: Bevills1Post Number: 5 Registered: Jun-06 | My original serial number was SN: 0102-1840-0090-B20G (103-010D) and is SN: 0102-1840-0101-B20G (103-010D) after update. I understand the third set of numbers in the serial number is the firmware version meaning mine was originally 090 firmware and is now 101 which would explain hack not working since hack doesn't work on versions past 098 firmware. A Google search found a 0102-1840-009X-XXXX firmware which appears to be for my original 090 firmware if mine is 090 at http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=150339 and is the last link at that site which appears to be for my original version. Could I download that 1, run the hack again and update again to correct the problem? Again are there any risks in doing so, or should this work with no problems? If this is the solution, then instructions at http://ilohacker.tripod.com/ that instruct to download latest LiteOn firmware to run the hack needs to be changed. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2728 Registered: Jul-04 | I haven't done any of this myself, I've just read that the hack doesn't work with newer firmware. If you can downgrade the firmware, then the hack should work. There may be a way to reset the recorder to factory specs, there usually is. How it's reset is different on every recorder, you'd have to find out how to do it for your specific machine. |
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New member Username: KimintxPost Number: 1 Registered: Jun-06 | I just wanted to thank everyone here for recommending the GoDVD. I just copied my first Disney Video to DVD and it was perfect! I'm SO thrilled I won't have to re-purchase all of these for my son's DVD player for the car! Thanks again! |
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New member Username: Bevills1Post Number: 6 Registered: Jun-06 | Unfortunately faulty instructions at http://ilohacker.tripod.com/ caused all my problems because instructions say to get latest firmware from LiteOn for the hack where it should say to get the 098 firmware for the hack. The last link at the http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=150339 site that matches my recorder finally worked, and all VHS now appear Macrovision free with no need for a video stabilizer. Note I did the official update from the link first and then the hacked version just in case. |
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New member Username: TromiePost Number: 2 Registered: Jun-06 | hi, i just got a magnavox dvd recorder and after about three hours of trying to record vhs to the dvd recorder with no sjgns of getting anywhere i decided to go to the internet and i found this site (thank god).you all have been very helpful, i had never even heard of macrovision befor.now to my question: after reading tmax's post about using an ancient vcr as a stabilizer i was wondering if it would be possible to use a beta machine as a stabilizer. any info would be helpful.thanks. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 56 Registered: Mar-06 | j.h. - Assuming it is ancient (which it almost certainly is), you should be able to use the beta as a stabilizer. I'm assuming you don't want to use it as the source deck (you don't have beta tapes). What you want to do is very simply put the ancient VCR (the beta machine) in the video line between your source deck and the standalone DVD recorder. You hook it up just as you would do with a stabilizer; that is, you run the video out from the source deck to the video in of the beta, then the video out of the beta to the video in of the recorder. If the beta machine doesn't have any "video out" RCA-type connection, then you'll have to use coaxial cable to make the connection to the DVD recorder. The beta may also not have any "video in" RCA connection (if it's quite old). The beta machine will have to be plugged in and turned on AND set to receive the signal from the source deck and then pass it on to the recorder. On my ancient VCR, this is the "EXT" setting (for "external"). This is the setting you use for "dubbing" and if you have your owner's manual for the beta machine, read the section on dubbing to see how to set the machine. If you don't have your owner's manual, fiddle around with changing the channels on the beta machine until you come to the "EXT" setting (or whatever it's called on that machine). If your beta is like my Akai, that setting will automatically come up after the machine has been unplugged for a period of time. That's because my Akai has to have each channel programmed in (it only is able to receive a fixed number of channels (maybe 10 or 15?)) and when it is unplugged, it loses its memory (loses all the pre-set channels). It's supposed to retain its memory for some period of time (an hour or several hours?) but the battery is apparently shot after all this time and so whenever it's unplugged, it loses all pre-sets and automatically sets itself to the "EXT" setting (that's the default setting). Your audio cables should go directly from the source deck to the DVD recorder. If there is no "video out" RCA connection and you thus use coaxial cable, then I think you shouldn't use any RCA audio cables for the audio (the coaxial will carry the audio as well as the video). But you can play around with that part of it and see what you get. I assume you've seen the Macrovision effect, so if you have your TV set to receive the signal from the DVD recorder, you can monitor the signal being received by the recorder and thus see if you've got the Macrovision effect or not. If you see nothing, then you've either got it hooked up wrong or the beta machine isn't working. What you're doing here is indeed using the beta machine as a stabilizer. It is filtering out the Macrovision signal because it was built before there was Macrovision and thus does not have the circuitry to recognize it, which thus effectively filters the Macrovision signal out of the signal it is passing on to the recorder. Which is what a stabilizer does. Good luck. Let us know how you make out. |
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New member Username: TromiePost Number: 3 Registered: Jun-06 | thanks alot i,m definately going to try it! |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 57 Registered: Mar-06 | j.h. - I'll explain in my next post (to follow immediately) but the setting you might want to look for on your Beta machine is "AUX" (as opposed to "EXT" on my Akai VHS machine). That's what it's called on my other older (but not ancient) Hitachi VCR. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 58 Registered: Mar-06 | David (anyone !!) - My D-R4 arrived today and I've been playing with it for the past couple of hours. It appears to be new and never previously used at all (all the cords seem to be as originally factory-packed, etc.). It has a small paint chip on top and maybe that's why it was brought back and exchanged. I'm hoping so. I'm hoping that when they opened the box and saw the chip, they just took it back to the store and exchanged it for another one. That appears to be the case. Anyway, after playing with it a bit it seemed to work fine as a player. But when I put a blank disc in it, it rejected it. Same with the 3 or 4 others that I put in it. I kept getting the message: "Check the disc. It may be damaged physically or require cleaning." These are Fujifilm "up to 8x" discs and Fujifilm "up to 16x" discs. I tried both with the same result. I've made copies of VHS tapes on both such discs using my friend's Toshiba D-VR4X combo and never had any sort of problem with making the recording. This machine rejected all of the blank Fujifilm discs I put in it until it suddenly accepted the 4th or 5th disc. That one is a 16x disc. I'm recording a VHS tape to it now (and I checked it after a couple of minutes and it did record). So, what do you think? Note that this machine is made in China and has a manufacture date of April 2005. I note that the manual seems to recommend 4x discs and makes no mention of 8x or 16x discs, but it also says that "DVD-R for general Ver. 2.0 discs can be used for recording and playback," and these discs are indeed DVD-R discs which say that they "can be recorded by using the DVD-R drive/recorder which confirms to Specifications for DVD-R for General Version 2.0 / 8x-Speed DVD-R revision 3.0." They appear to be compatible or I wouldn't be able to record on the one I'm recording on now. But it does seem a bit fussy about accepting them. Any suggestions on how to get it to accept these other discs? There's no problem with them; they are brand new. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2734 Registered: Jul-04 | Do you have a PC burner? If so, you need to get the media code from the discs. Fuji used to use Taiyo Yuden for their discs, then they went to Prodisc, still good discs, lately I've seen people saying the media code is fujifilm 003 or something and people have been having problems with them. Every disc I've tried in mine has worked fine, TY, Prodisc, and Verbatim DVD-R, Optodisc and Panasonic RAM, Verbatim RW. You may have a defective recorder. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 59 Registered: Mar-06 | Thanks. I don't have a PC burner (yet). I'll keep trying my remaining discs in it and maybe it will straighten itself out. I'll also have to see what it does when I try to finalize this disc. I'll let you know. My TY order at Meritline is delayed. They have the discs on back order. If this machine won't accept the discs I have, I'll probably have to get some others until the TY's get here. I might have to do that anyway because I have quite a few tapes that I want to copy. I see that the manual recommends Maxell discs (4x) and if I can find some of those locally I may get them. It also recommends TDK 4x. I can get the Maxell 8x discs (25-pack spindle) for $10 (42 cents apiece with the tax) on Sunday (sale). But I hate to buy 25 discs that this machine is going to fuss over. I'll try to find the 4x if I can. Either the Maxell or the TDK. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2735 Registered: Jul-04 | Supermediastore has those TY discs for $50 for 200 with free shipping. I've only ordered from Meritline twice and both times it was back ordered. Supermediastore has never done that to me and I've ordered from them half a dozen times or more. I've seen a lot of complaints about TDK discs lately, I'd stay away from them. The manual I got recommends TY discs. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 60 Registered: Mar-06 | Thanks again David. Meritline offered to refund my $$ and maybe I'll take them up on it. The way I'm going, I could probably use up 200 discs a lot sooner than I thought. My manual also recommends the TY discs (as the first choice). Maxell is 2nd and TDK 3rd (but I'll stay away from those on your recommendation). As for an update: I tried all of my remaining discs in the machine. It accepted all of them, rejecting only the first 3 that I already mentioned. Two 16x and one 8x. It accepted four 16x discs and six 8x discs. So I have 10 discs to work with. Plus it accepted the one other 16x disc that I already used. The copying on that one seemed to go fine although I haven't yet viewed all of it. Nor have I tried to finalize it. So this machine accepted 11 of my remaining 14 blank Fujifilm discs and rejected 3 of them. I really don't think there's anything wrong with the 3 discs, but if it accepts pretty much everything else I put in it, I'll be happy. I'm sure my friend's machine will take these discs, so I'll use them over there in her machine. Now I'm gonna go read the manual !! I'm psyched !! I even bought a couple of VHS tapes for a buck each today at a garage sale that I stopped at. Apollo 13 and The Blair Witch project (which I also got for a buck on ebay the other day but which hasn't yet arrived). Both these tapes look brand new, as do the ones I bought on ebay so far (including some Columbo and Inspector Morse, which is what I'm taping now). Stop me if I already told you, but the Inspector Morse DVD box set (33 episodes @ ~100 min ea.) goes for a whopping $450 at Amazon dot com. That's new, but the used ones aren't much less. My library has 22 episodes on VHS, which I'm copying now, and I purchased the other 11 episodes on VHS on ebay for $65. And they are like brand new. I'll play them once to copy them and then look to unload them and recoup my investment. They come out great -- and I'm talking about the library copies. These others will really come out great because they've either never been played at all or played only once. The seller sprung for the DVD set ! Now if I could only get my hands on that set to rip and burn ....... My next project: Ripping and burning DVDs. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2736 Registered: Jul-04 | When you go to finalize the discs, you can make thumbnails anywhere you want for each title and chapter. You can name the disc and each title. You can set chapters at 5, 10, 15, 20 minutes, but it has to be done before recording. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 61 Registered: Mar-06 | Yes, I noticed that there were no chapters automatically set. The D-VR4X sets 10 min chapters by default, but this machine apparently sets no chapters by default. I found the 10 min default chapters useful in skipping ahead to where I left off (when needed) as opposed to entering the exact location. Plus I like to go back and re-watch parts of these Morse episodes before I get to the end (where he solves it). Like most of these kind of shows, they pretty much follow the same pattern (formula). With Columbo, we see who and how right at the beginning. With Morse, there are a lot of characters introduced early on and they are always doing a lot of stuff that doesn't seem all that significant. But as you get close to the end and begin to figure it out a little bit, it's fun to go back and see who was doing what in the beginning because it helps in figuring it out. What seemed insignificant in the beginning takes on new significance towards the end. Plus it's hard to remember who did what early on because you aren't yet familiar with the characters. Which is part of the beauty of DVD. You can jump around here and there in a heartbeat without worrying about wearing out the motor of your old VCR, yada yada yada. One thing I want to find out is how to re-record over a previously recorded DVD-R that hasn't been finalized. I think that's possible (?) but so far I haven't figured out how to "rewind" it so that recording starts at the beginning instead of where the prior recording left off. As I said, I have to read the manual now. Since I just got it today I wanted to check it out and make sure it worked and did everything it's supposed to do. Seems like it does and seems like a nice machine. The next thing I'll be doing is opening it up to see if it has the dreaded faulty Chinese capacitors in it. Stay tuned. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2737 Registered: Jul-04 | You can only use a DVD-R once. If you want to reuse discs, you need RAM or RW discs. In the set up menus, you can set chapters to how long you want. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 62 Registered: Mar-06 | I still haven't read my manual, but I did happen on page 47 this morning as I was quickly thumbing thru it. Weird how that sometimes happens. It seems to describe there how to re-use a DVD-R disc that hasn't yet been finalized. I'd read and heard that this can be done, as I said above, but never before had seen it described (as to HOW it's done). Seems to say there that you delete the relevant chapter(s). Until I actually do it, I can't confirm it. Which brings me to a related issue: Assuming that this can be done, I might want to try it with one DVD copy I already know isn't acceptable. I made that one on the D-VR4X, so it will obviously have to be "erased" on that machine. Since it's not been finalized, it won't even load into this machine (this machine won't read it). So assuming I can erase it using that machine, I wonder if I can then record on it on this machine? In a possibly related vein, it occurred to me last night that of the 3 discs that this machine has rejected, I know that at least one of them was loaded into the D-VR4X. That is, it was read by that machine and then taken out without anything else being done to it. There's a fair chance that one of the other two was also loaded into that machine, and indeed even the third one may have been. But I KNOW the one 8x disc was loaded into and read by the D-VR4X. So I'm wondering if maybe that's the reason this machine has rejected that disc (and the others, if they were indeed loaded into the D-VR4X). It wouldn't seem that simply reading a blank disc on one machine would cause it to be rejected by another machine, but this stuff is still fairly mysterious to me, so perhaps that's the case? I still haven't tried to finalize my 16x disc yet. It may be a few days before I do that, but maybe not. I don't expect any problem with it. If I successfully "erase" that other one, I'll let you know. But I'll have to find the section describing how to do it in THAT manual before I can do it, obviously. But at least now I know why my interrupted recordings didn't just start over at the beginning of the disc when I re-started the recording on that disc. You apparently have to delete the chapter you've already started in order to accomplish that. One reason I'm a bit focused on this issue is that I'm cheap! So when I first read about this, it occurred to me that it means that folks can use the less-expensive DVD-R discs like the more expensive rewriteable discs if they simply want to use their recorder machine (and no other) to play the discs they've recorded. This would seem useful for folks who like to "TiVo" stuff (record TV programs for later viewing but not for permanent retention). Thus you use your DVD recorder a lot like a VCR, where you tape your show, watch it when you have time, then re-tape over that tape to record another show. If it does work, I wonder how many times a regular old DVD-R can be re-recorded? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2738 Registered: Jul-04 | A DVD-R is a one time disc. You can delete titles, but it won't give any more record time than whatever was left before deleting the titles. If you want to reuse discs you need RAM or RW. The Toshiba only records in video mode on RWs, so the record time only goes up if the title deleted is the last one, if the title is in the middle or beginning, the record time remains the same. RAM discs are recorded in VR mode, anywhere you delete a title, the record time increases by however long the title was. RAM can also be edited, increasing the record time. It shouldn't matter that the disc was loaded into another machine. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 63 Registered: Mar-06 | I should have kept on reading down the "Notes" on page 47. The last one says: "On a DVD-R disc, deleting cannot restore the disc capacity." Translation: A DVD-R is a one time disc. I wouldn't think that loading a disc in another machine would make a difference, but it is strange that at least one of my rejected discs was indeed loaded into another machine first. It's also strange that the only discs it's rejected so far were the first 3 that I put into it. Everything since then has been accepted. But it still won't take those first 3. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2741 Registered: Jul-04 | With Fuji not making their own discs, it's hard to know what you're getting without a burner. Quality can vary a lot from spindle to spindle and sometimes within the same spindle. That's why I stick with TY discs, I know what I'm getting every time. Verbatim is MCC and should be close to the same quality as TY. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 37 Registered: May-06 | TMax, You can't re-record over any portion of a DVD-R. The closest you can come to that is, if you have enough space to record something different, you can make the disk (on playback) seem as if you did. I'll try to explain what I just said. Let's say you record half an episode of Columbo and for some reason, about 1 1/2 hours into a 2 hour movie, it screwed up and you want to re-record it. If your picture quality setting is set to accept, let's say, 4 hours of recording, you can start your recording over again. When you finish, before you finalize, you can remove the bad title (the one that didn't do so hot). Then, when you play back the movie, it will start with the successful recording. You don't save any space, the bad movie is still there, but without the title in the disk menu, the machine ignores the portion of the DVD that is not associated with a title and starts playback where there is a title association. IOW, you don't get to use the space over again, but you don't have to hunt down the "good" title when you play it back. This is especially convenient when 5 years down the road, you pop in your movie and of course, you no longer remember that the first 1 1/2 hours is an incomplete movie. By removing the bad title at the time you recorded it (well, you have to, it can't be done once the disk is finalized), no one is the wiser, your player has your back. I hope this makes sense, I'm totally confused. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 38 Registered: May-06 | Sorry David, I think I must have been typing my post to TMax when you submitted your post at 11:27. However,you did mention something I forgot, the advantage of using the RAM or RW disk. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 64 Registered: Mar-06 | David - Supermediastore is currently having a sale on the Taiyo Yuden 4X DVD-R Media (Value Line) 100 Pack in Tape Wrap with Free Ground Shipping (DVD01X0375-100) for $29.95. That's the same price I got with Meritline, except that they still have them on back order! I assume these are the discs you recommend? As you said, they also have the 200 pack with free ground shipping for $49.99 (after $4 off coupon, which is right there to use). I'm going to cancel my order with Meritline and order the 200-pack from Super. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2743 Registered: Jul-04 | Yes, those are the discs. You may end up with 16x discs, they are usually 8x, but they can be 16x. The 4x discs are long gone as far as I know, they quit making them around 2 years ago. I've had better luck with Supermediastore. They haven't ever had anything back ordered and they package better. I had a 100 disc spindle get trashed in shipping from meritline, a couple of other empty spindles too. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 65 Registered: Mar-06 | James - Thanks for that explanation. It was perfectly clear to me! I have that exact situation now with the ONE recording I've made with my new toy. I started recording a Morse tape and then realized that I hadn't set the speed! I thought I'd be okay because I thought it would default to SP, which is what I want. But it apparently defaults to XP, which is only an hour (not long enough). So 2:43 into the recording I stopped it, rewound the tape back to the beginning, and did the recording over from there. I knew there would still be enough space because the tape is 102 minutes long, which gave me ~118 minutes less whatever 2:43 @ XP used. And indeed there was enough space left. So now I have what you described. I will thus delete the first title and not have to skip ahead to the 2nd one (the full version). It's either title or chapter -- I'm still learning. Whatever. Which brings up a related subject. Apollo 13 is 2 hours 20 min long. I like to record movies at SP, so how to do it? Well, you can obviously record at different speeds on the same disc (like I did with that Morse recording I just mentioned) so I can record some of it at slower speed, then the rest at SP. The trick is to know how much of each so as to maximize the amount of the SP portion. I think that could get tricky. The only other way to do it (I think) is to record as much as possible on one disc, then finish it up on a 2nd disc. I hear a lot of folks say that's what they do. Of course, recording it at a slower speed allows it all to go on one disc, with room left over for something else. I haven't tried slower speed yet, and I note that you say you can't tell the difference, but I'd like to stay with SP whenever possible. I think I would see a difference since I've heard it said that the video quality does go down. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2744 Registered: Jul-04 | Every DVD recorder I've ever seen has SP as the default speed. XP is only 1 hour. Use AT recording to go over 2 hours. Set a timer for the length of the movie and select AT for the speed, set the start time to when you're ready, say you're going to record it at 2:00 PM, set the timer for 2:00 and the stop time for 4:20, or a little longer just to be sure, have the timer all ready but don't press enter, after the clock gets to 2:00PM, start the tape and press enter on the DVD remote, it will start the recording and stop whenever you set it to. That way you don't have to go to 3 hours to fit a 2:20 movie. I can definitely tell a difference on any speed over SP when I record, maybe not 2 hrs. 20 min. but 3 or 4 hours I can. |
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New member Username: Bevills1Post Number: 7 Registered: Jun-06 | Are there any firmware mods to eliminate Macrovision for JVC, Pioneer or any other standalone recorders, or is that possible only for LiteOn and ILO? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2745 Registered: Jul-04 | Not for JVC or Pioneer. None of the major brands do as far as I know. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 39 Registered: May-06 | David, I don't quite understand this AT recording setting. I read pages 42, 43, & 44 of the manual. The way I understand it, the AT recording is for less than 2 hours recording. You mentioned using AT for recording a movie that is 2:20. And I am missing something in your explaination of using a timer. Are you talking about using timer record? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2746 Registered: Jul-04 | I personally never go over 2 hours, so I can't say for sure it will work over 2 hours, but it does on every other recorder I've used. I'm guessing the manual is wrong on that one like it is in other places, but I can't say for sure. Yes, you have to set a timer to use AT. I can check with a RAM disc and see if it goes over 2 hours, I'll post wheather it works or not soon. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2747 Registered: Jul-04 | It does indeed only work for 1-2 hours. I forgot about reading that until you mentioned it, I figured it was a mistake, there's some in there. I use it all the time, but I never go over 2 hours. I don't like the slower speeds. |
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New member Username: JastmePost Number: 1 Registered: Jun-06 | Everyone seems so knowledgable and I am just a novice I mean really a novice compared to all of you. I ran across this board by accident, hopefully someone can help. My problem, just purchased a Panasonic VHS DVD recorder but can not make a copy of my purchased VHS movies so they can be played on my Home Theatre system. From what I understand I need something called a stablizer, help I have no idea what it is or how to hook up an ancient vhs recorder to use as a stablizer. Please could someone bring this all down to a nontechie language for me? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2748 Registered: Jul-04 | Look on ebay, you should be able to get a GoDVD for $50-60. You'll need a seperate VCR with a combo. |
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New member Username: Bevills1Post Number: 8 Registered: Jun-06 | On a post I saw in another thread the member had a LiteOn 5001 and 5007 both of which took hacks, but same member said a LiteOn 5115 he has would not take hack. This seems to indicate 50xx seires will hack while 51xx and later will not although I've no way to confirm this. Does anybody know of any LiteOn 50xx series that don't hack and any LVW-5005 in particular? |
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New member Username: JastmePost Number: 2 Registered: Jun-06 | Thanks David If I understand you correctly you are talking about the GoDvd CT 2, right? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2749 Registered: Jul-04 | Yes, you'll need a seperate VCR too. |
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New member Username: JastmePost Number: 4 Registered: Jun-06 | I have several vcr's, does any one work better than others or do they just need to be older? Thanks again |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2751 Registered: Jul-04 | It doesn't matter if they are old or new. Just use whatever one has the best picture quality. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2753 Registered: Jul-04 | It doesn't matter if they are old or new. Just use whatever one has the best picture quality. |
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New member Username: JastmePost Number: 5 Registered: Jun-06 | Thanks Will let you know how it goes |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 40 Registered: May-06 | Hi JoAnne, welcome to the board. I was and still am a novice, but the help I have gotten here has been more valuable to me than any customer support I have ever contacted. People like David & TMax and, well, everybody here, have obviously spent a lot of time researching this subject and their posts have been invaluable to me. Both David & TMax have contributed a great deal of information about stabilizers in previous posts on this board, but they are now archived. You can retrieve them at the top of this page, but I will try to just summarize for you so you don't have to search for the information. About your question concerning the old or new VCR's, were you asking which is better in general, or for using as a stabilizer? If you want to use it as a stabilizer, the older the better, according to TMax. He can explain it better than me, but from what I understand, the newer VCR will not ignore macrovision, whereas, the older ones will, therefore, allowing you to copy. The reason you can't copy a copy-protected VHS tape to a DVD in your combination unit is, the combo's are "wired", or programed to recognize the copy-protection on the VHS and there is no way around it within the unit. You can use the combo unit as a source unit to play the VHS tape, but you need a seperate DVD recorder (a stand-alone) with a stabilizer between the two to filter out the copy-protect signal from the VHS. David - What is the difference in the labels, or, coating on the DVD's. They come with Silver Inkjet Printable, Silver Laquer, White Inkjet, etc.? If the speed is the same, I'm thinking the different labels are just a personal preference, OR? Also, why is there so much difference in the price of a store brand (e.g. OfficeMax) vs. a name brand DVD? Is there really that much difference in the quality or are we just paying for the name when buying a name brand? Obviously, you prefer TY because it is more reliable. I'm not sure what is meant by that. Are you talking about TMax's problem with the recorder rejecting them, or just the quality of the copy? |
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New member Username: JastmePost Number: 6 Registered: Jun-06 | Thanks James, Yes I agree they are very helpful, I would not have known what to do otherwise. I have read all the current info from them and others. I feel I am learning from the best. I am curious to know why the TY is better than the local store brands, also. Is it because you can buy them cheaper in larger quantities? Would it be better for those of us who only have a few items to copy to buy the TY's? |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 66 Registered: Mar-06 | James / JoAnne - Just to clarify: JoAnne, you can use your Panasonic combo unit's DVD recorder to make the DVD copy as long as you use a separate VCR as the source deck and the GoDvd CT 2 in the video line between that separate VCR and the input of the Panasonic. I think you want to do that rather than using the Panasonic as the source deck. You said you have several VCRs, so you'll want to use one of those as the source deck (to play the VHS tape) and run the "video out" from that machine to the stabilizer's "in" connection, then the "out" connection from the stabilizer to the "video in" on your Panasonic. Then you just choose the DVD part of your Panasonic as the recording machine. The audio cables go directly from the VCR to the Panasonic (no need for any "stabilizer" with those). Your Panasonic manual should cover all this under the section that talks about using external equipment, or an external VCR, or "dubbing" using an external VCR. It sounds complicated, but it's really not at all. If one of your VCRs is "ancient" (probably like circa 1985 or older), then you probably won't even need the stabilizer. If you think one of your VCRs might be old enough, and it works (and won't destroy your tape), you can just try that machine without a stabilizer and see what happens. If your Panasonic has additional inputs (usually at the front of the machine), then you can use those and thus you don't have to disturb your permanent setup. If you tell us the model of your Panasonic, we can probably tell you whether it has additional inputs. Or maybe you already know? If you do use the other inputs, you have to tell the machine you're using those inputs (rather than the "regular" inputs at the rear). Your manual will cover that stuff. Now, to really confuse you -- it might even be possible to use your Panasonic's VCR part as the source deck. That depends on whether or not that machine has any "audio/video out" connections and so forth. But that gets a bit complicated and without knowing what model Panasonic you have, we can't tell you whether or not you can do it. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2755 Registered: Jul-04 | Cheap discs are just that. They pixelate, pause, skip when being played back, if they successfully burn at all. Cheap discs have also been known to deteriorate fairly quickly, rendering them usless. It's not worth saving pennies per disc to end up with discs that may not play in the future, or that don't play right from the start. The Toshiba recorders are supposedly media picky, so cheap discs may not even work. I've had no problems, but I don't use cheap discs. I learned my lesson way back in 2001, now I've got dozens of discs that some play and some don't, and of the ones that do play, a lot of them have bad spots throughout. Do yourself a favor and use quality discs, don't make the same mistake I did. Back then quality RAM discs were $30, I thought I got a deal getting them for $10, turned out to not be such a deal in the end. I sent the discs to the manufacterer to be replaced some of them 3-4 times, losing what was on them each time. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2756 Registered: Jul-04 | I just got a 10% off coupon from Shop4Tech. The coupon code is "ss10" if anyone wants to use it, just enter that code when they ask for coupons. It can be used multiple times. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 67 Registered: Mar-06 | Thanks for the coupon, David. I canceled my order at Meritline and they supposedly are issuing me a refund. They better do so. I placed my disc order on the 11th and they never bothered to contact me at all about it despite the fact that they had my discs on back order and thus couldn't fill my order for who knows how long. It was only when I contacted them about shipment that they told me the didn't have the discs in stock. When I asked them when they'd be getting them, they couldn't give me a date. So I placed an order with Supermediastore on Saturday (for the 200-pack). I hope THEY can fill it! If Meritline had the discs in stock I'd have them by now. But since they didn't tell me that they were on backorder (or put that up on their page), I just wasted a week for nothing. Oh well, the good news is that I got more of the TY discs at a cheaper price. I also grabbed a great deal on a backup D-R4 on ebay yesterday. Supposedly in "perfect condition" although no remote or manual. Which doesn't concern me since I already have a new manual that came with my first one, as well as a remote (which will work this one as well). I think the holiday kept the bidders down and I stole this one for 26 bucks on the bid (!!). I sniped the next-highest (newbie) bidder by a buck and so only used a buck of my ~$43 max. Gotta love those holiday sales that end in the middle of the day. And I suspect that the lack of a remote and manual kept the bidders down somewhat as well. I hope the freaking thing really works! But this seller is solid, so I'm safe on that score. This gives me 4 DVD players (one of which is region-free and plays both PAL and NTSC) and 2 recorders. So I should be set for awhile. If I can just get my freaking discs, that is!! |
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New member Username: JastmePost Number: 7 Registered: Jun-06 | Thanks TMax It does sound complicated but with all the help I am getting I am confident that I will get this figured out. I just bought a Panasonic DMR ES35V Dvd Recorder. I hooked it up the way they said and then found out that I did not need the audio/video cable to connect to my television. The unit did not work when the AV cable was connected, but unhooked it and it works just great. What's up with that? I'm bidding on a CT2 on Ebay, I hope it is a good one. I don't think any of my current vcrs are that old though. Thanks David for the coupon, I will definately take advantage of it. Thanks again for all the help. Will get back to you later. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 41 Registered: May-06 | OK, it makes sense that you get what you pay for. But, I have always heard that CD's & DVD's will virtually last forever as long as they are not abused. I wasn't aware that the cheap ones could deteriorate. Thanks for the info. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2757 Registered: Jul-04 | Meritline did the same thing to me both times I ordered from them, they never told me they were back ordered either. I've been happy with Supermediastore and Rima both, never back ordered and both package well. I've ordered from Shop4Tech a couple of times, no problems, but Shop4Tech and Meritline don't package as good as Rima and Supermediastore. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 22 Registered: May-06 | Hi Everyone,If you remember i ordered the Digital Video Stabilizer that didnt work and then I got a GoDvdCT200. It came in, hooked it all up and I actually Copied 1/2 of a movie from VHS to DVD, then about 1 hour into the movie the VCR stopped and rewound itself. Ok. Change movies start over. Then the next time on another movie the DVD copied it for about 1 1/2 hours then stopped recording. The VCR kept playing. I have more VHS movies that still cant get pass the famous message than not. I have not managed to record one full movie yet. I had unstacked my machines, put a fan on them, put a new DVD in, nothing. I still think that I have something not connected right. I am having to use a RF modulator due to not having the plugs on the TV. Well anyway I will keep trying and report back. I am using a combo unit as my recorder and I am beginning to have doubts about that. If anyone has any suggestions I will be proud to hear them, but probably at this point I have read it all. Linda |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 68 Registered: Mar-06 | JoAnne - I see that your DMR ES35V has inputs at the front (and no door covering them) so you can use those to make DVD copies of your tapes (using a separate VCR and stabilizer) without disturbing your permanent setup (to cable, TV, etc) at the rear. You'll just have to select "IN2" when you want to use those front inputs (read your manual). Here's a link I found that you might find useful. It has a lot of photos, so it takes awhile to load. I'm not sure I understand the problem you had with the AV cable hooked to the TV. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2758 Registered: Jul-04 | The connection should be, video out of the VCR to the in on the stabilizer, out of the stabilizer to the in on the DVD, audio straight from the out on the VCR to the in on the DVD. The tape stopping and rewinding wouldn't have anything to do with the stabilizer or DVD, it's either the tape or the VCR. What brand of discs are you using? Have you used them for anything besides VHS to DVD? |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 69 Registered: Mar-06 | Linda, the problem may be your VCR. My Toshiba D-R4 manual notes that it may be sensitive to any disruption in regard to the VCR -- including bad spots in the tape -- and may interpret those signals as copy protection signals and act accordingly. You might want to try another VCR if that's possible. The one you are using might just be troublesome. I suspect maybe it is because there's no reason for it to stop halfway through a tape and rewind. Maybe a power failure or if there's something wrong with the tape or something like that, but it shouldn't do that otherwise. Not if it's working properly. I have a Hitachi VCR that sometimes stops when playing a long tape. It's very annoying. It shouldn't do that and I'm sure it's because it's not working "properly." Obviously, it should play even long tapes all the way through without stopping on its own. If you were able to make a good copy (of as much as you copied), then I'd say you have everything connected correctly. If you didn't, you wouldn't be able to make any copy at all. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 70 Registered: Mar-06 | David, what do you know about this thing? - |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2760 Registered: Jul-04 | I've never used anything like that. I'd be a little leary of something that cheap that does all it says it does. DVD recorders have TBCs and filters for poor quality sources like VHS, that probably doesn't. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 23 Registered: May-06 | David I am using DVDRW until I am sure I am going to be able to copy and then I have bought some DVDRs but can remember the brand. It was one of the brands my manual recommened. and I have been able to copy one movie that didnt have the protection on it onto one of these DVDs,David do you think that I really need that Rf Modulator or is the Coaxial cables doing the same job for me. TMAX I do have another VCR buts its the Emerson which I was using at the start of this project and because It would not work with a stabilizer I unhooked it. But think I will hook that back up. I know it copys VHS to VHS and very well because I was doing that but on my own recorded VHS tapes. I feel there is something that I am doing wrong. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2761 Registered: Jul-04 | If the TV only has a coax connection, you need the modulator. DVD recorders don't output through the RF out, they just pass the incoming signal. The output wouldn't have anything to do with the problems you're having. Are the RWs 2x discs? Anything over that could cause problems in a standalone. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2763 Registered: Jul-04 | If the TV only has a coax connection, you need the modulator. DVD recorders don't output through the RF out, they just pass the incoming signal. The output wouldn't have anything to do with the problems you're having. Are the RWs 2x discs? Anything over that could cause problems in a standalone. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 24 Registered: May-06 | I dont know what they are I will look once I get home. Thanks I will keep trying, i have a few more things to try before I finally give up Will report back when something changes. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 42 Registered: May-06 | Linda, Back in the days (b4 dvd) when I would copy vhs to vhs, sometimes my vcr would stop & rewind. I found that if I fast forwarded the tape to the end and rewound, that wound the tape more evenly. I think when a tape is not evenly wound, the machine thinks it has reached the end of the tape and rewinds. One other thing. Unlike digital readers, the tape pick-up head can get a residue buildup from the tape and cause it to drag. This will also cause the machine to think the tape has reached the end. Try cleaning the vcr pick-up (or "read") head with a vhs head cleaner. Just a thought. The problem with the DVD recorder stopping, it happened to me once but never again since. I have no idea what caused that. It may have been the brand of DVD-R. David says the cheaper DVD's can cause unexpected problems. I havent had any problems using TDK or Verbatim, but as soon as I use them up, I will get the TY's. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 43 Registered: May-06 | At the top of this page it says, "Closed, new threads not accepted on this page." Does that mean we have to start a new board or is that just the notice that this page will be archived with the next post. I guess I'll find out when I post this. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2765 Registered: Jul-04 | Verbatim discs are good too, as long as they are made in Taiwan and not India. If VHS tapes have a bad spot in them, light can shine through from the LED to the tape end sensor, making the VCR think the tape is at the end, causing it to rewind. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 71 Registered: Mar-06 | "DVD recorders don't output through the RF out, they just pass the incoming signal." David, I was going to mention that to Linda but after I thought about it, I decided that I was too confused myself on this. I read that blurb in the installation manual ("Installation Guide") at page 20, and I think I experienced it with mine when I tried to run the coax directly to an older TV to use as a monitor. I got no picture and then I found that blurb in the manual. So my question is, what the heck is that "RF out" for??? Maybe it's a really dumb question? I understand the "RF in" because that feeds the recorder the TV signal from your cable or antenna (thus allowing you to record TV programs) but if the signal doesn't pass thru to the RF out connection, what the heck is it there for? Also, page 20 has a diagram where the coax is run from that connection to the UHF/VHF connector on a TV (or to a modulator/splitter). I'm pretty sure I tried that and got no picture. Which seems to be consistent with the blurb but inconsistent with the diagram. I'm confused. Linda, sounds to me like you're getting pretty hip to all this stuff. Your comment about using RW discs until you're sure everything is working is something that took awhile to sink in with me. My problem is the source tapes, which aren't always reliable. They aren't my tapes so I don't know which ones will copy with no problem and which ones might have a problem that I need to deal with. Using -R discs results in a wasted disc whereas using -RW discs gives a trial run before making the final permanent recording on -R. So I need to get a few -RW discs. Of course, at the moment I have some thunderstorm activity around and I hate to start another 100 minute recording with the risk of a power outage about. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2766 Registered: Jul-04 | If you want test discs, RAM would be a good choice, they are more reliable than RW. I use RWs, but I do a full erase every time I use them. The RF out is so you can watch the antenna/cable on the TV without having the recorder on. An RF converter has a max resolution of 330 lines with the quality of the converter varying a lot from one device to another. DVD recorders have about 525 lines of resolution, so it's throwing away the capability of the recorder to use the coax connection. If it did output through the coax, the audio would be mono too. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 72 Registered: Mar-06 | David - Thanks for clearing up the RF out matter and for the RAM disc recommendation. I just got a telephone call (and email) from Meritline and they now say that the discs I ordered have been discontinued. They offered to refund my money or to replace my order with these discs: 100 Pack Taiyo Yuden Valueline 8x DVD-R Silver Thermal Lacquer Tape Wrap (DVD-R47VAL600SK) Product Code: 102-523-100 which I think are just the same thing but in 8x instead of 4x. In fact, "DVD-R47VAL600SK" is exactly the same number/designation that's in my original order (that they said they can't fill). ?? As you've said, TY probably doesn't make the 4x anymore. Which is what I just ordered from Supermediastore !! I hope I don't get the same run around from them!! Meritline didn't do quite right by me on this deal at all. I feel like I'd still be waiting to hear from them if I hadn't nagged them and then canceled my order, which seemed to prompt them into action (and to make me the replacement offer). |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2767 Registered: Jul-04 | I've been happy with Supermediastore in the half a dozen times I've ordered from them. You should get tracking numbers from them tomorrow morning, they wait until the day after they send to e-mail the numbers, probably because it takes that long for the numbers to get into the system. I haven't got 4x discs for over a year now, they've all been 8x. Some people have said they got 16x, I think they were from Shop4Tech. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 25 Registered: May-06 | Hi, well I had better luck last night. I actually copied an entire Movie. With only one hitch. I unplugged and replugged again. And I did find a couple that I had connected wrong, so I reconnected the Rf Modulator and noticed the Cables were reversed. The one hitch that I had was about 55 minutes into the recording the DVD stopped. I caught it shortly after and hit the record button again and it started up and never stopped again. VCR did fine. Who knows. I am still practicing on the DVD RWs and thought tonight I will try the same movie on an R. James I will clean the heads on VCR I hadnt thought about that. Tmax if I hadnt been using RWs I would have been out of this project weeks ago as many snags as I have hit. But I think and I say that very softly, I am on the right track finally. David, The DVDs that I am using are the ones I picked up at Walmart. The RWs that I am using over and over after erasing are Imation DVD+RW 4X which is one brand that was listed in manual. The other is Maxell DVD+R4.7 up to 16X 2 hr. and a pack i have but havent opened are MaxellDVD +R 4.7 GB up to 8X. This is another thing that I dont understand are the difference in DVDs and the lengths. You said yesterday that I dont need to use anything over 2XRW. As soon as I have licked this project I want to install The Skrink thing on my computer so that I can Burn DVDs. I have that capibility but not the knowledge, YET. And TMAX I have got really interested in this forum and do visit it everyday. I had learned everything I know about this from here. and It dont scare me anymore like at first. If I could I would buy everyone a RC Cola and Moon Pie. Thanks. Linda |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 73 Registered: Mar-06 | Linda- Sorry I scared you. I didn't mean to do that. Your DVD stopping may have been due to the Imation DVD that you are using. I don't know anything about them, I'm just saying that could be one reason. There are lots of other reasons, including anything quirky with your VCR. You said you unplugged and replugged. I don't know what you mean by that; but note that my manual notes that once you start the recording process, you shouldn't touch anything because it might cause a signal to the recorder which it might interpret as a copyright signal, and thus stop the recording, etc. Thus my manual says that if you are going to edit out any portion of a tape, stop the recorder first, then fiddle with the VCR. Then start the VCR first, and then the recorder. Similarly, when starting your recording, start the VCR first, then the recorder. If you do it the other way 'round and start the VCR after the recorder is already recording, starting the VCR might cause a signal that the recorder interprets as a copyright signal, thus causing a problem. So I take it that these recorders are a bit delicate to any kind of signal glitch, so you want to avoid that as much as possible. David will undoubtedly answer your question as to DVD lengths, but I'll give it a go too. I think you are referring to 4x, 8x, 16x? If so, that's not the length, it's the recording "speed." It only has meaning if you are burning DVDs on your computer. Doing what we are doing here is different. We are recording in "real time," and thus the different speeds are irrelevant. So when using a standalone recorder like we are doing, a 4x will record the same as a 16x. But if you are burning DVDs on your computer, as you say you are going to do, then using a 16x disc will get it done faster than when using a 4x. The disc lengths are all the same (that's really the "size," which is 4.7 GB). David, I placed my Supermediastore order late Saturday night (the 17th), and just got UPS confirmation that it was shipped yesterday, the 19th. Given that the 18th was a Sunday, and a holiday to boot, that's pretty fast service, I'd say. Along with the 200-pack, I included a 100 pack of paper sleeves for 4 bucks (and free shipping). Not bad, I thought. It will all arrive Friday, via UPS. So I should be all set for some weekend recording. I'm very pleased with Supermedia. As to Merit, they did rather promptly refund my $$, but I wasn't too happy with the way they processed my order and dealt with me on that. But their customer service was pretty good and very cordial. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 26 Registered: May-06 | TMAX, You didnt scare me. My lack of knowledge is what was scaring me and I feel like I have learned so much from this forum just reading and listening. And what I meant by plugging and replugging was what I did before I tried to copy last night. Going through the RF Modulator and the GODVD plus the DVD recorder and the VCR I had cords everywhere. I did something last night that actually made it easier on myself. and that was strip the RCA cords apart and do one color at a time. Then the Cable out and in to each unit instead of one unit at a time I did one color at a time. It was a lot less confusing. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 74 Registered: Mar-06 | Linda - Yes, the RF modulator adds an additional layer of confusion that's not required when you're using a more modern TV that has RCA inputs. I deal with that when using an older TV to monitor things, as I sometimes do (don't ask). And instead of using a true RF modulator, I use a spare VCR that I have, which functions as an RF modulator. BUT, keep in mind that the RF modulator has nothing to do with the actual RECORDING process. Your connections should be rather simple: 1) The "video out" RCA wire (yellow) from your VCR goes to the "in" side of the GODVD. The "out" side of the GODVD (another yellow wire) goes to the "video in" of your DVD recorder. Make sure that you tell the DVD recorder which of the two inputs you are using (front or rear, usually designated as "1" & "2" or "In1" & "In2" or "L1" & "L2"). That's certainly required when you use the front inputs because all recorders are defaulted to the rear inputs. Obviously, you need not worry about that if you have no front inputs. 2) The 2 "audio out" RCA wires from your VCR (red and white) go directly to the red and white "audio in" on your DVD recorder. Again, use everything with either the front or rear inputs (you can't mix and match). That's all you really need in order to copy a tape to DVD. But, ya can't see what you're doing on your TV if that's all you have hooked up. So: 3) The 3 "out" RCA connectors on your DVD recorder go to the RF modulator. If you had a TV with RCA inputs at the back, they would just go there. But you don't. So, the coaxial "out" cable on the RF modulator goes to your TV. That's all you need for recording your tapes and for monitoring the recording process. You should thus see everything you need to see on your TV screen, including "Play" when you hit the VCR recorder play button, "Record" (or the appropriate icon) when you hit your DVD record button, "stop" (or icon) when you hit the stop button on either the VCR or DVD recorder, as well as the video of your tape as you are playing (and recording) it. With this hookup, you can't watch any cable or broadcast TV, but this is the basic hookup for recording your tapes and monitoring that recording process. You should also be able to play the DVD after it's recorded and see that recording on your TV screen. Keep in mind that everything has to be turned on and powered up, including your RF modulator. I think that's all correct, but if it isn't, David or someone will jump in and correct me. I think my recommendation for you, Linda, or anyone who's a bit confused with all the wires, is to hook things up as I have described rather than trying to hook everything up in some sort of "final" fashion, as where you can record tapes and then also watch TV normally without changing any connections, etc. Get the correct recording connections set firmly in your mind first (and make a drawing or record of exactly how it's hooked up) and then go back later and try to get it all hooked up in some sort of "final" fashion. In other words, take it step-wise rather than trying to figure it all out at once, in which case you can easily get overwhelmed and confused. As they say in the bigs: "Don't try to hit a 5-run home run." |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2769 Registered: Jul-04 | Linda, Have you successfully recorded TV programs? I wonder if part of the problem is the recorder itself. I don't use + discs, but all the standalones I've used call for version 1 2x DVD-RW discs. 4x -RW discs are version 2. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 27 Registered: May-06 | Hi David, Yes I have recorded on the DVD+RWs several times from things that I was watching and wanted to go on to bed so I would start it and then watch it the next day. That part worked well and I have set the timer a few times and that worked. I just pulled the manual out and reread and it says to only use Type Discs for recording are DVD+R 2.4x, 4x,, or 8x and DVD+RW 2.4 and 4x only. It does say that it will play DVD ROm,DVD+R, DVD=RW, DVD-RW and DVD-R. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2772 Registered: Jul-04 | That should eliminate the recorder then. I've seen people say that good quality cables helped with recording problems. I picked up a brand new set of Monster cables on ebay for $16. I don't know if they would help or not, but they might. There are other companies that make high quality cables, Acoustic Research is another one. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 28 Registered: May-06 | David, there are a couple things that I have in mind that might be causing the problem if it continues to happen and that is the VCR itself, my having so much plugged into the same surge protector and then there is the DVD's and it could be the cords, most of them were new ones I just bought.I will start again tonight by trying to copy the same movie onto another DVD and see what happens. I think its just a case of process of elimination now. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2773 Registered: Jul-04 | As long as there isn't anything that uses a lot of power on the same circuit, there shouldn't be a problem. Most electrinics these days use very little power, only a fraction of an amp. Now if there's a microwave or toaster or something like that on the same circuit breaker, that could possibly be a problem. |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 29 Registered: May-06 | Thanks David, I will keep trying, I really feel like I am getting somewhere now. I will let you know if I do any better. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 75 Registered: Mar-06 | "As long as there isn't anything that uses a lot of power on the same circuit, there shouldn't be a problem." Yes, I agree. That's a good thought given the problem Linda mentioned earlier about the recording being interrupted. If her refridgerator or other heavy-draw applicance is on the same circuit, that could easily cause a spike that could upset the recorder or the VCR. Best move would be to use a relatively isolated circuit and see if that makes a difference. I doubt that any of the wires are a problem although it's possible. Linda, if you were able to record TV programs with no interruption, and especially if you were able to do so a few times or more than a few times, then I wouldn't suspect anything with the recorder, or the wires, or even the electrical circuit. Especially if the 'fridge is the suspected culprit. That obviously comes on whenever it wants to, including at night while you're sleeping. I would therefore suspect the VCR. That MIGHT be sensitive enough to a surge or spike that the DVD recorder might ignore, but I'm beginning to suspect that VCR you're using more and more. If I were you, I'd try another VCR and see how that went. It could also be the tape, of course. I have some tapes that wreak havoc on my VCRs because they don't turn freely enough for some reason. There's a lot of mechanical stuff going on inside a VHS tape cassette and sometimes things get gummed up or otherwise affected such that there's a lot of drag on the tape, thus making the VCR work harder. My Akai has been known to stop playing some of those tapes halfway thru (or so) and go into "finished playing" mode. That sounds like what happened with your one tape, so that tape might have a problem of this sort which caused the interrupted recording. If it's an especially long tape, like 3 hours or so, then I'd really suspect it. With commercial VCR tapes recorded at normal speed, longer playing time means longer tape length. Meaning your VCR is going to have to work harder in driving and pulling the heavier tape reels loaded down with the extra weight of that extra tape. Add some dirt and grime to the mix, causing the reels to drag a bit, and you will certainly have a problem. Make sure you're using a tape that plays all the way through with no problem, and try something a bit under 2 hours in length for starters. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2775 Registered: Jul-04 | The DVD would be more sensitive to power problems than a VCR. VCRs are analog which is less sensitive than digital equipment. If you get a tape that has problems, rewind it to the beginning, then fast forward to the end and let it rewind. I've had to do that 2-4 times to get tapes to play right. Some VCRs rewind tapes a lot more even than others. |
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New member Username: Bevills1Post Number: 9 Registered: Jun-06 | My initial failed hack attempt was because I unwittingly used 0104-1840-009X-XXXX to 098 update after which I succeeded using the correct 0102-1840-009X-XXXX to 098 update because my serial number begins with 0102. The second set of 4 numbers for 2 members' LVW-5005s on another forum are different from the 1840 for both my original and the 098 version for hacking. From failed attempts of those other 2 members thus far experiencing "file" displayed on failed attempts, it would appear the 0102-1840-009X-XXXX to 098 update will not work with thier second set of 4 numbers being different. Does anybody here know if the 0102-1840-009X-XXXX to 098 update will work for LVW-5005s with second set of 4 numbers being different from 1840, and are there other firmware versions available that will work if this one doesn't? |
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Bronze Member Username: LthompsonAlabama Post Number: 30 Registered: May-06 | Wanted to let everyone know that I am moving right along on my project. No more problems what so ever. I have changed now to the DVD+R and so far so good. I appreciate everyones help. Linda |
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New member Username: Bevills1Post Number: 10 Registered: Jun-06 | Fortunately my new LiteOn LVW-5005 hacked successfully with available firmware as did my son's new one that was ordered the next day. New untis came with 101 firmware, and I first back flashed to official 098 version and then did the hack version. I'll have to leave it to others to try with newer firmwares that are difficult to hack, but I'm interested in learning if anybody does accomplish that task. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 76 Registered: Mar-06 | My Supermediastore order arrived today and I highly recommend them for the TY discs and anything else you might want. Fast service and good stuff. As I said before, I added a pack of 100 paper sleeves to my order (for $4.15 and free shipping), so I'm all set until I get some empty spindles as per David's advise. They are well worth the 4 bucks -- nice product. Just wanted to let James and everyone know that the TY discs come in wrapped-stacks of 100 discs with a blank disc on the top and another on the bottom (blank plastic, no media). The discs have no obvious markings on the top side, which are silver, and the media side is only slighty darker in color. In poor light, it could be a little tough to tell the two sides apart. You want to open the stack at the TOP, meaning right side up (as per the writing on the wrapping, which says only "Value DVD-R"). That way, you aren't exposing the media side of the disc for any that you leave wrapped and stacked. I will be doing some serious recording now. I'm following this with a post on a different subject. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 77 Registered: Mar-06 | I've reconsidered my prior notion of ripping and burning DVDs. I'm now thinking that I might just want to copy them the same way we are all copying VHS tapes. The problem, of course, is the copy protection. I saw this guy's claim on Amazon dot com under the reviews of the CT-2 stabilizer - All you need to copy a DVD to DVD recorder is the following. #1 DVD Player #2 VHS Player #3 DVD Recorder (I have a LITEON 5005) Do the following Conect the DVD Player to the input of the VHS player then out to the input of the DVD recorder then to the tv. Play the DVD then hit Record (with a tape in) on the VHS then hit Record on the DVD recorder. Makes perfect copies of the movie only. I don't know what this guy is smoking, but that doesn't work. I didn't think it would since I already tried it with my ancient VCR, except that I didn't have a tape in the VCR and thus didn't hit "record" on it (the VCR). But today I tried just what the guy said, and no go. In fact, even my ancient VCR wouldn't copy the protected DVD (without serious distortion and a Macrovision-looking effect). So, I think that I want to get the CT-2 because I think it will allow me to copy protected DVDs to DVD using my D-R4. From what I've read, it does do just that. I've seen a few complaints that the video quality degrades somewhat, but I've seen more reviews that say the copies are excellent. I think I know that copying DVDs this way results in a conversion from digital to analog (and back to digital again?). Perhaps this is why the copy isn't quite as clear as the original? If anyone has used their CT-2 to copy protected DVDs to DVD, I'd really appreciate hearing from you. James, I believe you have the CT-2. If so, and you're interested or curious, you might try this and see what the copy looks like. I get the sense that the copy is pretty darn good and that if all you want to do is make a fair use "back up" copy of your own DVD, like a 2-hour movie or something like that, then that can be done using the CT-2. I see some Moms saying that they are doing this and giving the copies to their kids to destroy (as kids will do). That way, Mom has the original to use to make a new copy for the kids. I also believe that the CT-2 is about the cheapest most effective device out there that will allow DVD copying in this manner. It's $89 with the power supply and video cable. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2787 Registered: Jul-04 | Why would you want to spend $90 to get copies that aren't as good? I got my last burner, Pioneer, for $30 shipped after rebates. The PC is faster and better quality both. Also you can't keep the DTS or 5.1 audio on a standalone, you can on a PC. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 78 Registered: Mar-06 | David - Not sure I can do that with my current outdated system. I'm running Windows 98 with a Pentium II processor and a 10 GB HD with ~2.5 GB available. What do you think? Also, if it's possible, some questions: 1) What's the latest version of DVD Shrink (I just downloaded v3.2.0.15 and had downloaded the prior version earlier this month). 2) Do I need Decrypter or anything else to do it? Seems like Shrink does it all (?) 3) What Burner do you recommend (the Pioneer you mentioned for $30)? Thanks |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 44 Registered: May-06 | Ditto... I have no desire to even check and see if the DVD>VCR/VHS>DVD will work. Like David, I have a burner (Memorex +/- R 16x) in my pc. I copy a 2 hour protected DVD>DVD in less than an hour and the quality is perfect. The only way it takes more than an hour is if there is a lot of extra stuff ("Behind the making of... etc.). I don't copy that stuff anyway. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 45 Registered: May-06 | I do have the CT-2. I am using it on my VHS>DVD system. Works good. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2788 Registered: Jul-04 | TMax, What speed is your processor? You can't do anything with 2.5 gigs of HD, that's for sure. Some burners don't require a fast processor, but encoding time will be slow. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 46 Registered: May-06 | TMax, Did you download the 3.2 FREE DVD Shrink or did you have to pay for it? All I can find is the one to pay for. Last time I downloaded DVD Shrink, I got it free, but I don't remember where I went to get it or how I downloaded it without paying??? David, I see ads on web sites advertising "Rip DVD's to CD". Other than the price of blank CD's, is there any advantage to putting DVD's or VHS on CD? |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2789 Registered: Jul-04 | No, putting DVDs on CD will be poor quality compared to using DVDs. CDs only hold about 1/7 as much info as DVDs. Here's DVD Shrink, they also have lots of articles about DVD to DVD. http://www.afterdawn.com/software/video_software/dvd_rippers/dvd_shrink.cfm |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2790 Registered: Jul-04 | No, putting DVDs on CD will be poor quality compared to using DVDs. CDs only hold about 1/7 as much info as DVDs. Here's DVD Shrink, they also have lots of articles about DVD to DVD. http://www.afterdawn.com/software/video_software/dvd_rippers/dvd_shrink.cfm |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 47 Registered: May-06 | Thanks, David, I downloaded the DVD Shrink 3.2. Thanks for the link. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 79 Registered: Mar-06 | James - That link is the one I got my version 3.2.0.15 from yesterday, so I guess it's the latest. The zip file is "dvdshrink32setup1.1" whereas the one I had downloaded earlier this month was "dvdshrink32setup1" I haven't opened either zip file yet. David - My processor speed is rated at 450 MHz but I'm not so sure it's actually that fast. I do have another machine w/ a 10 GB HD and similiar processor that I could devote to this task. I could simply reformat the HD and free up virtually all of that space. I'll have to check the system requirements for DVD Shrink, which I'm sure I can find somewhere. I'm thinking you and James are correct that I should go that way for DVDs. |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2793 Registered: Jul-04 | One of my burners only needs a 350 processor. The Pioneer was higher than 450 if I remember right. You can proably get away with 10 gigs if the disc doesn't need ripped to the HD first. If you look around, you can get a HD pretty cheap after rebates. I picked up an 80 gig for $20 and a 160 gig for $40 after rebates. That's still a lot less than the Sima. You'd have to look at burner specs and find one compatible with that processor. I've seen 1 gig computers in the paper here for $100 or less, that may be the way to go. XP is a lot more user friendly than earlier versions of windows, most of the bugs of the earlier versions of windows have been fixed too. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tmax59Post Number: 80 Registered: Mar-06 | Ya, now you've got me upgrading my system. But that's a good thing. I'm sure I can pick up a much faster XP system for just a few bucks and I know that HDs have gotten ridiculously inexpensive. I'm quite handy, so the fiddling around part is easy for me. As you say, I can probably piece together something for less than the price of the Sima. I've now burned 5 TY discs and everything is going as smooth as can be. I emptied ~1/3 of my first 100-disc pack into paper sleeves and now I just pull one out, put it into the D-R4, pop a tape into the VCR and away we go. Come back in an hour and a half and wait to finish up. Actually, I haven't "burned" any yet. I've just made the copies but haven't yet finalized a disc on the D-R4. I got almost all the way through that process and saw the screen with the color choices (?). I need to read the manual before continuing. I did make 10-min chapters with no problem at all. I really like this D-R4. And I'm loving these TY discs at a quarter each. Thanks for the recommendations ! |
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Gold Member Username: SamijubalPost Number: 2795 Registered: Jul-04 | You don't really need to do anything to finalize the disc, except give it a name, unless you want to make thumbnails. If you want to pick the screen shot for thumbnails, go into easynavi and select play contents, then after it gets to the next screen, press quick menu and select create thumbnail, then you select the thumbnail you want to do and get to the spot you want with play, search, etc. and press enter when you're where you want the thumbnail. I use it for titles, I just leave the chapters wherever they are. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jchurch43Denver, Colorado USA Post Number: 48 Registered: May-06 | September 16, 2005. Just out of curiosity, I went to that archive to see who was posting and what they were saying. What a comedy. It is almost a year later now, and the difference in intelect is obviouse.If anyone wants a few laughs, go to the "Archive through September 16, 2005". Andy is a hoot. |
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New member Username: DebledRichardson, TX USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-06 | I have a Toshiba D-R4 and see that everyone has had the same problem with disc finalizing as I have. I have ordered the TY disc to see if that will solve my problem, but I have another problem. It will not create the chapters like it says it will. I have it set to create them every 10 min and it just won't do it. I have had this recorder for almost a year and have never been able to get the chapters to work. Do you have any suggestions? |