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New member Username: Kevin_bazzPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-05 | Hello! While doing a Google search, I came across these forums and found a partial answer to my question. My DLP set has started making the dreaded color wheel humming, which I take as a bad bearing(s). Someone posted this early this year on these forums: ********************* Fred, First...stop freaking out! If the filiment looks good it doesn't mean the lamp is good. The lamp may be weak, but can still operate or the ballast can be weak, but still fire the lamp. Call 1-800-SAMSUNG and tell them about the color wheel. They have replaced them on sets out of warranty at no charge recently. They are trying to promote good customer relations by replacing the old style color wheel with the new "air bearing" type. While your at it, tell them about the three lights. It's common with Toshiba lamps, but happens with defective Phillips lamps too. They may throw it in free. As for the lamp, turn on the set and during the first few seconds slap the lamp housing area a few times. It will light up if it has any life in it. Then leave it on 24/7 until it dims, dies, or is replaced with a new Phillips lamp. Samsung Parts http://www.samsungparts.com/ BP96-00224C LAMP ASSY./ PHILLIPS 40''-50'' $199.99 BP47-00008A BALLAST FOR LAMP PHILIPS 100P/H00,100W $173.33 BP96-00250A ASSY COVER P-COLOR WHEEL DLP(SVC),COLOR $157.19 It pays to have an extended warranty!!! These are new inventions after all. **************************** My set is now out of warranty, and I checked out that part number that was provided. First off, does anyone know if the part number provided above is for the "air bearing" color wheel or the same one that I have now? Secondly, has anyone had expierence with replacing one of these? I would like to avoid spending $200+ on a tech. I'm not afraid of tinkering since I am a tech head myself, but I don't want to take on something bigger then I should. Any help is appreciated! - Kevin |
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New member Username: Kevin_bazzPost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-05 | Additionally - does Samsung offer a warranty of good faith w/their DLPs? Browsing the web, I can see this is an consistant issue with these sets...I would think Samsung would take note and try to keep their good name. |
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Unregistered guest | my HLN437W picture goes out after 3-4 hours. Pull the electrical plug to TV, wait 30 minutes, replug and the picture is back. Any suggestions? |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 537 Registered: May-05 | Hi Kevin, Yea...that was me talk'n to Fred. As it turns out there is no air bearing frictionless replacement for the HLN models. You can replace the wheel yourself with ease. It sits in front of the lamp housing held by some screws. It will slide up and out of the slots that guide it into place. Two small wiring harnesses are all that's involved. Just watch how the old one comes out and don't touch the actual wheel of the new one. Don't try to work through the lamp hatch. Go ahead and take the back off. Sometimes it's easier to slide the light engine tray out a little. With Samsung CS it never hurts to ask! Nick, It sure sounds like a thermal sensor. Maybe one of the fans has begun to slow down. Take the back off and see if the dust has accumulated. I use the brushy attachment on my vacuum. It may be too late and a fan might need to be replaced. That's easy to do, though. There's one for the lamp and one for the DMD board. |
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drew-bob from TX Unregistered guest | I successfully replace my color wheel several months ago on my HLN5065W. Now, I am having a problem that I think is related to my self-service. After the set has been on for a while, the screen "freezes" with only black and white pixels showing. Today, I opened the set back up and checked all of my connections. The problem still exists. I looked in the back of the set, and of the three LEDs on the digital board, only one of them is lit. This indicates to me that I either missed or screwed up a connection on one of the boards. After closer inspection, here are some things I notice: 1) I have nothing plugged into CN107 on the DMD board 2) Coming off of the small power board on top of the lamp enclosure, there are 2 connectors, CN1 and CN2 (according to the service manual). CN1 is the larger brown cable that crosses over to the power board. The CN2 cable is enclosed in a clear, plastic sleeve and it goes somewhere below the large 20 pin connector (CN108) on the DMD board - from the manual, it does not look like there is connector down there. 3) I think that the 5 connectors on the right side of the digital board are OK. From top to bottom, I have (a) the lamp fan (inside the lamp box), (b) the fan that blows on the DMD board (mounted behind the digital board), (c) the fan on the left that blows down on the lamp assembly, (d) the cover switch, and (e) the thermostat mounted on top of the lamp box. Everything on the TV "works" (e.g., color wheel, various inputs, etc.) - I just have a connection problem with my fans (I think). As you know, the pictures in the service manual leave much to be desired. Any advice (or pictures) on the proper connections on both the DMD and digital boards? Thanks in advance for your help. drew |
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Unregistered guest | i have a samsung HL-R5688W and im having a big thing with it, 15 minutes or so after i turn it on, the image frezzes with a black and white distorded images. when the tv does this, i can still hear the sound perfectly...someone told me that this is a dmd board issue. any ideas..??? please let me know to my mail |
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Silver Member Username: FyiDallas, Texas Post Number: 624 Registered: May-05 | It's the DMD controller. There is a fan for it that may have slowed with dust or stopped completely. Sounds like the DMD module is heating up and failing. Hopefully, it's not too late! |