Archive through May 23, 2005
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New member Username: VeruskaPost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-05 | Hi, I did not find posts with the same problem I have: my TV is a HLP5063 and I've had this tv since Nov 04. About 3-4 times when turning the TV on, a grid pattern (similar to a convergence test pattern) appeared accross the screen. The grid is about 2/3 inches appart and grid is multicolored. It goes away when you turn off the TV for about 30 min. Sound remains normal. Any clues??? Thank you for your help. |
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Dave in Nevada Unregistered guest | Yarmo, Anyone, I have found out that if I put a floor fan blowing behind the TV across the back that the picture stays ok. So it definately is something heating up and breaking down causing the strope/flashing problem. I was gonna blow it out with air but am reluctant to in case it puts dust and crud in places like on the screen or mirror and just compounds the original problem with additional problems. Any thoughts? |
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Unregistered guest | Anyone have ghosting problems with HLN617? It's going on 2 years old but been a great TV. Ghosting more noticeable on script. Thanks |
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DLP owner for now Unregistered guest | Howdy, I've read virtually all of this board and didn't find a specific answer to my following question. I just bought a HLP 5063W (50")and was extremely happy with every aspect of it until I tried to play some games on it with my PS2. Where I experienced the full second lag on every game I played. I beleive that I read that the HLP5067 (50") is the only DLP that does not have video game lag issues. If this is true, what should be my gameplan. Should I just not bother with anything and return it for full refund to Best Buy. Or call Samsung and see what they can offer? I refuse to pay this amount of money for a TV and not be able to play games on it. Is it true that the HLP5067 (50") is the only model without video game lag issues? Help or opinion would be much appreciated. |
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Reply to DLP owner Unregistered guest | The 67, 77, and newer releases coming this summer are fine for gaming. Are you using component cables? Is your PS2 set for progressive scan? If so, it won't be a full second lag! This applies only to games supporting progressive scan. |
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Reply to brewer01 Unregistered guest | Irregular ghosting is usually signal related, generally with standard definition cable signal. Script or letter crawls are on standard def channels. The single DMD chip doesn't suffer from convergence. It is so precise that it will reproduce a bad signal perfectly. Garbage in...garbage out! |
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DLP owner for now Unregistered guest | Hey thanks alot for the fast response. Yeah, when I first had the problem I went right back out and got the component cables and it really had no effect. Yeah progressive scan is on. I'm a pretty big gamer, so it's something I can't live with. What are opinions on going with a 67 or 77 or waiting for the new models???? Anyone with one that plays games on it, please feel free to reccommend. Thanks! |
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PaulF Unregistered guest | DLP owner - I just got the HLR-4677 and have experienced no lag with my PS2. I tried out a few games (using my old RGA cables) and everything worked fine. I was not that impressed with the graphics, which is probably due to the RGA cables and lack of progressive scan. Do you know where I change my PS2 to progressive scan? |
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DLP owner for now Unregistered guest | Thanks Paul, Is it the new slim design or the old bulky ps2 (which I have)? I think i've heard that only the new ones have that as an option. Cant find it on my old ps2. |
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Reply to DLP owner Unregistered guest | Old tv? Old game box! New tv? New game box! Better yet...pc games! Superior graphics!!! Let's not regress to the Commadore 64! DLP owner, That 63 has a PC monitor connection! Use a Powerstrip driver. Google it! That 77 doesn't! Not sure about pc to DVI/HDMI compatability. When you said, "Yeah progressive scan is on." you must have misunderstood! The option is in the PS2 menu. The game must also say it supports progressive scan mode. |
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DLP owner for now Unregistered guest | Oh, I thought it was just an option that you turn on or off? Besides, very few games actually use progressive scan. Am I correct when i say this? I'm going to purchase a new slim model PS2 and see if that works for a last ditch effort before I return the TV. Does anyone have one (HLP 5063W) that actually plays PS2 games on it, lag free??? Thanks |
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Reply to DLP owner Unregistered guest | You saved a lot of money buying a high def HLP5063W. You are basing your decision to keep it on a lower than 480I signal source from an almost obsolete game box. If it means that much to you to have a big display for your inferior signal gaming craze you could have bought a rear projection CRT. The DLP chip is a precision micro-mirror device designed to display 720P in a very beautiful way. It wasn't designed for VCR's or slow scan game boxes. It will display 1280X1024 pc signal perfectly. PC gaming will blow you away. Sometimes it's time to move on to better things. Otherwise, the 5067 or CRT was the way to go. |
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PaulF Unregistered guest | DLP Owner - I have an older PS2 that I bought roughly 3 years ago. I have not checked to see if I can switch it to Progressive Scan yet. I would rather hook up my PC to the TV and play Half-Life2 or Battlefield 1942. Unfortunately the new 77's do not have DVI inputs. I plan on upgrading my graphics card when Battlefield 2 comes out this Summer. I wonder if the newer graphics cards have HDMI outputs? |
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Anonymous | DLP Lamp failures: I purchased my HLN437W in May '03 and had my first lamp faiure 1 yr later @ 600 hrs and then a second failure after another yr with 900 hrs, plus the color wheel had to be replaced. When I purchased the set, I was told ~7000 hrs with bulb cost ~$200. Thinking that my maintenance cost would be minimal over ~7 yrs - instead I am out $700 (color wheel, lamp, and labor - post warranty)and expect at least $300/yr with lamp & labor costs. This makes me angry! After seeing all the posts talking about bulb life being very low, I think that Samsung misrepresented their product and should be made accountable. |
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Dave in Nevada Unregistered guest | Yarmo, Did you have any luck getting an answer to your flashing/strobing problem. Did the ballast replacement do the trick? My temp fix of blowing a floor fan along the back to help keep whatever is heating up cooled down no longer works, so I'm looking for help. thanks Dave |
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Reply to Anon Unregistered guest | Anon, You are a prime example of why the extended warranty that also covers lamps is the only way to go! Some lamps will last 10k hours and some won't last 50 hours. Samsung doesn't make the lamps! Phillips is the best! Here is a great article about lamps! http://www.cherrywood-av.co.uk/guides/Lamps.pdf |
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Reesenut Unregistered guest | Here is my warranty work story I purchased a Sammy HLP4663w in January 05. Started hearing buzzing noise in April. I called toll free # for CC warranty plan and they hooked me up with local repair dealer. Local dealer said the fan needed to be replaced and he had to take the set back to their shop. Dealer called me 2 days later and asked me to call Samsung since they would not return their calls for replacement parts. Samsung informed me the local dealer should have never been involved because Samsung handles warranty work in first year. They also told me replacing a fan is a 20 minute job and the TV should have never left my house. Samsung calls local dealer and tells them to bring the TV back to my house and they set up an appointment for a Samsung tech to come in the next day. Samsung tech diagnoses problem within 60 seconds and in 30 minutes replaces color wheel, calibrates color, checks my bulb and gives me a cleaning kit for my screen. TV is working great. I love this set the picture in HD is jaw dropping. Summary: I should have gone straight to Samsung and not been referred to a local repair shop by the CC warranty people. Samsung and their tech support were outstanding. They were courteous, quick to respond and their technical expertise was outstanding. I am seriously considering canceling my extended warranty with CC , since I would have reservations about having their local service reps touch my TV again. Samsung is suppose to be offering an extended warrany in the future which might be the better way to go depending on who your local CC contracts with to do their repair service. |
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New member Username: DrjclPost Number: 3 Registered: Apr-05 | RAINBOW EFFECT... I am seeing the rainbow effect on my new HLP5674W. Any suggestions on how to minimize this effect?? |
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Reply to jcl Unregistered guest | If you are one of the very few people who continually see color tripletts in any room light, then DLP may not be for you. The 74 does have a slower six segment color wheel turning at 9000rpm. The 63 and the new 68's have a seven segment turning 10800rpm, which is less likely to render the rainbow effect. |
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New member Username: G30Post Number: 6 Registered: Feb-05 | jcl If you watch you TV in the dark, try backlighting it. This worked well for me as it gives your eyes a point of reference. You can alos try reducing the Contrast setting. |
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jesse c Unregistered guest | I have the annoying smudges on the reight and left side of my samsung hlp5063. The tech will be out in a week to replace the screen. However, after reading some of these messages I am wary that the new screen will be hazy and not as clear as my old one. Does anyone have any comments? What should I do? Also, a couple of times an hour I lose the picture for 2-3 sec, but not the audio. My tv is hooked up to a directv hd receiver (H10) via hdmi cable. Is this a problem with the tv, hd receiver, or the cable?! thanks for your input!!! |
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New member Username: NightbreederNpvi, Mi USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Mar-05 | Yes I can tell you from my experience that the screen quality is not the same. Live with the smudges they disappear after 30 minutes. Try to go to component instead of the HDMI and see if the picture stays stable. Good luck !!!! |
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Unregistered guest | Hello All, We bought a Samsung DLP - Model HLP6163WX back in mid-December, 2004, from Sears. The picture looked fine and we didn't notice any issues until one night a month ago I was watching something with a light background and suddenly I saw a bunch of smudges and blotches. I thought they were on the outside of the screen, but after careful examination and a quick wipe I concluded that somehow they were on the inside the screen! I was shocked after spending over $3k on this set! I did some digging on Samsungs web site and Googled some other info. After reading about other smudge issues from other Samsung DLP owners I called Samsung and they referred me to Sears. Apparently Sears buys the warranty from Samsung, so they will be responsible for fixing the issue. Sears has scheduled an independent TV repair service to come out to my house this Friday. When I spoke to the TV repair tech he said he thought my issues were caused by a bad light engine! I mentioned to him that I had found info about known problems with the screen, but he dismissed that. I'm not overly confident that he will get this fixed.  Anyway, if anyone wants to see what my smudges look like I just took some video and have four small (1-3 MB's) files that show my smudge issues. Drop me an email and I will send them along. Good luck everyone, I'll let you know what happens this Friday. Patrick |
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Opie Unregistered guest | Thinking about buying the HL-R5677W and haven't read many posts about this model. Does that mean they're relatively problem free? Is this model indeed the 4th and newest generation Sammy DLP that my friend said to me? I did see that the cablecard has had some problems. Can anyone provide advice on buying this model? If anything (that I got out of reading these posts) I will plan on buying the extended service contract. |
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To Opie Unregistered guest | The Cablecard system is riddled with glitches. It's a big headache! Some loose channels, most everyone looses the cable guide and and pay per view. New firmware updates tend to fail. The internal digital HD tuner can only provide digital network off-air broadcasts. Other HD channels require a set top box. The 77 is replacing the 74, which is still widely available. It's the same HD2+ set, but meets the new FCC requirement of providing the digital tuner. Personally, I don't want my tuner inside my set. I have a Samsung SIR TS360 Direct TV HD/Terrestrial receiver and it's fabulous! The 74 is less expensive and that makes it even better in my opinion. |
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PaulF Unregistered guest | Opie - I have a HL-R4677W and it is a gem. I am hooked up through a HD Time Warner DVR box, so I have no need for the cable card or internal tuner. The 74 is identical to the 77 and the picture is amazing. The 74 has more inputs (DVI) than the 77, so go for the 74 - esspecially if they are cheaper. The speakers are really good too! |
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Fred B Unregistered guest | I have been waiting for the HLR6167W, which I thought was going to have the HD2+ chip. I've seen some information that says the set would have an HD4. I just spoke to a Tweeters rep, who tells me that the set is now available, but it has an HD3 chip. Can anyone tell me if this is accurate? If there is an HD4, is it like the HD3 or an improvement? I also understand that a 61" 77 series model is due out, and it will have the HD2+ chip. Does anyone know when this 6177W is scheduled to hit the market? |
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To Fred Unregistered guest | The 67's have been around for a while. They have the HD3, same as the 63's. http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?masterid=8192825&search=samsung+6 167 The 77's are available too, but not in the 61" size. They have the newer HD2+ chip like the 74's and have taken the place of the 74's. Only difference from the 74 is the worthless CableCard system and the practically useless internal digital tuner. I prefer to keep my HD tuning seperate from my set. http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?sort_type=price&masterid=8192826& isbn=&pid= The xHD3 or HD4 or whatever they call it will appear in the 68's and 88's this summer. I think the large screen is 67". (HLR6768) http://www.hwhpr.com/prclients/samsung/ces05/DLPCES05_PR.html |
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Unregistered guest | For "Dave in Nevada" Sorry for not getting back to you sooner -- been out of town for a couple of weeks. Replacing the ballast cured the problem. TV is working great now using the original bulb. This was covered under my ESP and the repairman opted to go ahead and replace the color wheel while he was in there (nice of them to do that). I read your other posts and I can concur that my TV would do the same thing; that is, if we turned it off and let it cool down, we could get another 2 hours or so of good picture before the strobing effect would return. As I mentioned in my post on April 15, the ballast for your model is listed at $146.76 [part# BP47-00016A]. I can also tell you that if you spend the extra $22 to get the service manual, it does have detailed illustrations that describe the process for replacing all of the parts. I have obtained one for my model for posterity. Reply to FYI The service manual is well worth the $20-$25 you have to spend to get it (IMO). It includes the settings information and charts for the various adjustable settings accessible through the service menu. It even includes the full electrical schematic diagrams for all circuitry. There are even a couple of specific mentions on how to troubleshoot some of the more common complaints like color wheel noise. |
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Spidey Unregistered guest | Hello All; I purchased an HLP5063 about a month ago, and find the picture quality to be absolutely outstanding. I use Comcast's HD Box, and the Samsung HD-841 DVD player. HD is really breathtaking, and most DVD's look pretty darn good from my 10' back viewing position. I have had one occurence of the "lights flashing nothing works," and cured it by unplugging, waiting, and reconnecting - Effecting a re-boot of the system. With the micros employed in everything electronic these days, it actually seems the norm to have to periodically reboot our equipment. I am on my 2nd Pioneer HT receiver, and I occasionally have had to reboot either of those also. They would lock up & "lose their minds" with powerline glitches and the like, until unplugged and restarted. Perhaps if Samsung provided a "CTRL-ALT-DEL" button next to the power switch, we'd realize it was nothing more than what we experience with our PCs all the time ;-) Does anyone have an economical source for the Phillips projection lamps? I'd like to have one in reserve, before my 1.9 years is up . . . Best Regards, Ken |
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New member Username: DrjclPost Number: 4 Registered: Apr-05 | I was able to get my new screen installed for my HLP5674W. The tech said the lamp was fine.. that it is a Phillips lamp. And that there is NOTHING he can do about the "Rainbow Effect" that I notice. Other than the Rainbow Effect, the HD picture is incredible.. I have to hold my head and eyes perfectly still to avoid see bands of red/green/blue. If I even look over with my eyes to pick up my beverage, I get the annoying effect.... ANY SUGGESTIONS?? |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 718 Registered: Sep-04 | My my own personal experience, once I started seeing rainbows it seems to get worse and worse. It is very easy for me to pick out the DLP sets in a store and I wish that wasn't the case. I had a HLP5085, but I ended up returning it for a JVC Dila because it uses 3 chips and no color wheel. |
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New member Username: DrjclPost Number: 5 Registered: Apr-05 | What about the new HLR's, what number segment color wheel and RPM will they have.. looking for a 56 inch. |
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New member Username: DrjclPost Number: 6 Registered: Apr-05 | TO GEO, What do you mean by "backlighting" the screen to reduce rainbow effect... please explain in detail what you did. My TV sits in a media niche, so there is not much room on the sides, there is some room behind and on top. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 719 Registered: Sep-04 | jcl- Come to think of it, I did not notice rainbows with the new Panasonic DLP that uses an 8 segment colorwheel that runs at 10,800 rpm. Does Samsung sell a similar setup? |
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New member Username: Dave_in_nevadaFallon, NV USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Apr-05 | Yarmo, Glad to hear the ballast cured your problem. I put one on order last night. I ordered and received the manual and a replacement bulb last week and installed the new bulb on Sat. So far it has been working as it should with no strobe effects but I'm not confident that it will last. Thus, the reason I ordered the ballast. Some of the manual is way too deep for me, but it is definately a good deal in today's market.I'm glad I had it since it kept me from doing a couple of things I was thinking about that I would have really regreted. The original lamp I had that lasted approx 5k hours was a 120W lamp. The first replacement I ordered (11 Feb 05) was a BP96-00224J (philips 120W) lamp which was the number on the label of the box but inside was a lamp with a P/N BP96-00224C(P) which was a philips 100W lamp. When installed it didn't appear to be as bright as the original one so I sent an E-mail to Samsung parts with my concerns. I thought that a 100W lamp will not be as bright as a 120W lamp. The E-mail answer was as follows: "The wattage of the lamp is determined by the ballast, not the lamp. This is a common misconception. The lamp you have is the correct lamp". The lamp I received and installed two days ago was a BP96-00224B(O) 120W lamp and it is still working okay. I realize I may have a couple of different problems going on but am curious if the comments on the ballast determining the wattage is correct. Any thoughts? Thanks, Dave |
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New member Username: Dave_in_nevadaFallon, NV USA Post Number: 3 Registered: Apr-05 | Yarmo, Addition to previous post. Just when I walked in the door from work today the new lamp started the strope flashing. So much for my good luck with the new lamp. My wife found a good way to describe the condition: It looks like a Andy Warhol painting! Hurry ballast! |
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Unregistered guest | Reply to Dave, It is true that a ballast controls and determines the level of power delivered to the lamp it is connected to, however, that does not mean that the lamp wattage is irrelevant. Ballasts are necessary for the types of lamps used in projectors, street lamps, etc, which are generally referred to as HID lamps (High-Intensity Discharge). HIDs usually have some type of gas inside them that enables the lamp to burn very brightly by producing an arc. These lamps require a high burst of voltage (sometimes 5000+ volts) in order to ignite the gasses inside them and then require much lower but varying levels of current to maintain the arc that is created from the ignition. As the HID lamp continues to 'burn', it will get hotter, draw varying levels of electrical current, as well as produce more and more resistance until it finally completes the warmup phase and reaches an equilibrium. The ballast provides the proper flow of current to keep the lamp ignited and also works as a safety mechanism that controls the current and impedence that would otherwise cause a circuit to fail or the lamp to eventually burn out or even explode. So the ballast and the lamp function more as a unit rather than as two separate elements. The ballast controls the power given to the lamp and the lamp power determines the brightness and quality of the light used to generate the picture. If, for instance, you were to deliver 120W to a 100W lamp, the lamp would burn brighter but wouldn't last as long. I'm not sure exactly what would happen if you inverted the disproportion, but I suppose it is possible that the ballast might wear out sooner. Ballasts don't last forever either, but they usually don't need to be replaced anywhere near as often as lamps. I'm sure you have encountered a fourescent light fixture that hums loudly when powered on; that is most likely a ballast that is going bad. In more direct answer to your question, a 120W lamp should, by definition, produce brighter light than a 100W lamp, but only if it is truly producing 100W. It may be that the ballast is producing only 100W of power, which would in theory mean that the lamp is running at the same 100W as before, but well under the max 120W power rating for the lamp. I don't know what the ballast wattage rating is so it's hard to say, but traditional thinking would suggest that the ideal design would be to have the ballast and the lamp rated at the same wattage. If the wattage on the lamp is higher and it does no significant harm to the ballast, then the result may actually be a longer lasting lamp. Alternatively, it could be that Samsung has figured out that they were running 120W ballasts with 100W lamps, which caused excessive lamp failures, and have just decided to quietly correct the problem. Good luck, and let us know how the repairs go. |
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Unregistered guest | Reply to Spidey's May 2 post: I checked with a few alternate online vendors and none of them had the lamps as cheap as I was able to buy them from SamsungParts.com. Most of them wanted over $250.00 USD for lamps that were not even the latest version. One vendor was asking over $350 for a version A lamp, which is outrageous. It's not often that the original manufacturer has the best prices on replacement parts, but that seems to be the case here. Best Regards... |
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Klaus Unregistered guest | jcl: Just as you become "trained" to see rainbows, the mind can get used to the conditions where you do not see them. I have a 4674 and seldom now see them. I taught my wife to see them with an earlier model and neither of us have any real problem, but the learning curve can be annoying. Backlighting the room does help. The same effect is used in some plasmas to enhance perceived blacklevels. I have a couple of automatic nightlights on each side of the entertainment center. This cretes a wash of light at night which minimizes the effect of high contrast scenes , such as rolling credits, which are probably the worst for rainbows. During the day rainbows are virtually non-existant. It seems to be best though if the light source is not behind the viewing area. |
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Spidey Unregistered guest | Hi Yarmo: Thanks for the info - I too am surprised that Samsung parts would have the best price. It does make for great customer relations, however. Best Regards, Ken |
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New member Username: RichPost Number: 1 Registered: May-05 | I recently purchased an hlp-503w. Everything was working fine when last week I started to hear a popping sound. I eventually went away, but it's back again, and it doesn't matter what channel. It kind of sounds like static, like when you shock someone. Has anyone encountered this? Thanks, Rich |
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Unregistered guest | Reply to Rich's May 4 Post I've not personally encountered or heard of anyone else that has had the problem you describe. If it is happening on every channel, are you able to determine at least whether the sound is coming from the audio or something internal to the television? Knowing that your particular setup could be configured in any one of a hundred or more ways it would be hard to get too detailed in describing what I would do, but this is the approach I would take: 1) Disconnect all other components from the TV including Satellite, AV Receiver, DVD, VCR, etc, (whatever you have / all of it) and then test it in some way to see if the problem is still there. Basically, you want to see if the behavior continues even when the TV is disconnected from everything. 2) If the problem goes away, then connect each device one at a time and test each time until you can identify which device is associated with the problem. This could get tedious going through each single device, but the problem may be resulting from some sort of audio signal problem from one or more of the peripheral devices. 3) If the problem does not go away and the TV exhibits the same behavior even when nothing is connected to it, then you should contact Samsung or your warranty service to have it checked. Important Note: If the popping sound truly is coming from the TV even when nothing else is connected, you might want to be careful in case you are dealing with some sort of electrical issue -- If you're not sure, best not operate it until it can be checked. I'd also advise leaving it unplugged until it can be serviced just to be on the safe side -- no good if it has a short and catches fire somehow while you're waiting for it to be serviced. If you're not concerned that it might be some sort of electrical fault, then disregard. Good luck on it and let us know how it turns out! |
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Unregistered guest | I have Sammy HLN 61" and 43" DLP sets with a very strange problem affecting both units. Reception is good, HD signal looks amazing, but DVDs look only fair (grainy and slightly blurry regardless of age of movie, i.e., Lawrence of Arabia to Pirates of the Caribbean). In addition, the still shots in the scene selection menu are of terrible quality. They almost appear broken up. Sometimes when the still shots come up, you can see them literally shift out of focus. I've switched out HDMI DVD players (Sony to Toshiba to Samsung), upgraded the cables (trying both Monster component and DVI) and even had two different A/V guys check the setup. I bought the TVs specifically to watch DVDs, so I'm not happy. How can the cable picture look so good and DVDs look fair at best? Samsung is at a loss to explain how the same problem could be happening to two different TVs. Since I bought the TVs at the same time, I'm wondering if there's a defect in the component and DVI inputs. Any thoughts from the group? Would greatly appreciate your help. |
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New member Username: Dave_in_nevadaFallon, NV USA Post Number: 4 Registered: Apr-05 | Yarmo, I installed the ballast thur. night and everything was great. No more strobbing. Well unfortunantly today it started the same thing, so I'm back to square one. After about 15-20 minutes the flashing strobe effect starts again. Do you have any ideas? I hate to call a repair service and start trying to explain the whole process to someone not familiar with Samsung DLP TV's. My experience in the past has not been very good and it seems like most are just parts changers. Last time I had work done the TV was still under warranty and they had to have an authorized repair tech from Las Vegas (380 miles away) get hold of a freelance repair tech from Reno (60 miles away) to do the repair that consisted of swapping out the light engine.It means even more now that I am paying for the repairs. thanks, Dave |
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New member Username: SturmyPost Number: 1 Registered: May-05 | Help! I have two problems with my Samsung HLN-617W1. 1) Occasionally when I turn it on, the sound will come in but there will be no picture. It will then turn itself off and back on a couple times before getting the three lights of death. Then, it will randomly start working after a few more tries. It's driving me nuts! 2) The picture seems grainy. I have a plasma and an LCD TV in the same house and those pictures are super sharp. The DLP is not even close. Any suggestions? |
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To John Unregistered guest | The gap on your mercury lamp is wide. It has burned itself back to the point of intermittent operation. Some lamps last longer than others depending on circumstances of use. A Phillips lamp will last longer. Digital pictures are never never grainy. Analog standard definition NTSC cable signal is trash before it gets to the set. Sat signal stays digital and is always clear. Is your DVD player grainy? No! Then you have a crappy cable signal. |
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CerealKiller Unregistered guest | Hey guys I have a 50" SAMSUNG HLP5063 DLP TV and I am a complete noob with this new TV stuff. I had my old style Playstaion2 and Direct TV hooked up with just A/V cables and that looked pretty crappy. Switched out the PS2 cables for component cables and it looks a little better but nothing to write home about. My first question is I went into the PS2 config and set it to 16:9, is this right? My TV is also set to 16:9. Should I leave the PS2 at 4:3? When I hit info on the TV I believe it says 720x480 @60Hz. I just want to know the best way to setup my PS2 so I can get the BEST visual quality out of it. God of War has a progressive scan mode from within the game which does make it look alot better but then I notice the jagged edges even more - it's like it needs anti-aliasing added to it or something. Also if I get the HDTV reciver from Direct TV with the HDMI hookup will this make regular channels look better or only HD ones? Right now the reciver DirectTV gives you only has regular A/V cable hookups and S-video nothing really digital. I won't be ordering the HD package, but if spending $299 on a reciver with HDMI hookup will make all satelite viewing better it might be worth it to me. My last component is a Sony DVD player, it only has component out and A/V so I'm guessing if I get a HDMI or DVI compatible DVD player it will look much better? Thanks in advance for any help. |
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Anonymous | Samsung projection 50" HD TV HLP5085W I bought this new TV from Circuit City on March 21st, 2005, and on April 1st, 2005, I had Directv installed. Previous to this I had cable. Great picture on this TV but I have had this recurring problem. Every so often the picture blacks out for about a second and then returns to normal. It will occur about 3 or 4 times during an hour long show. It occurs on HD and regular programs alike. Directv, on their telephone help, have had me do all types of things including changing out the HD receiver. When that didn't work they sent me a new access card for the same receiver. The black outs continued. Then I thought that maybe the new TV was to blame and I called Circuit City. A Technician came from Circuit City. He watched the picture for about 20 minutes but, wouldn't you know, it didn't happen while he was watching. He checked all my connections and declared that he couldn't fix what he couldn't see - or words to that effect - and then he left. My neighbors do not have this problem. Can anyone please help me solve this irritating occurrence. Thank you. John |
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Klaus Unregistered guest | Anonymous: Do you have a dvd player hooked up? If so do the blackouts affect it? If not then the problem is the Directv setup. My guess is that there is a problem with the LNB out on the dish itself. |
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FYI Unregistered guest | CerealKiller, Did you whack Capt. Crunch or Snap, Crackle and Pop? Just kidding! The 5063 is a great 720P set. It is awesome for HD and digital network broadcasts as well as progressive scan DVD players. It will display slow scan equipment like VCR's, game boxes, and non-progressive DVD players with ok quality, but not great. Standard definition from sat is acceptable, but is a waste of the expensive set. Bottom line, it's not a big version of your old 4:3 picture tube. It was made to astound you with true 720P eyepopping video. That said: Your PS2 should have a menu for Progressive Scan selection. The component cables will pass the signal. If the game is PS capable, the set will scale the 480P to 720P. The enlarged image may not be what you're used to, (jagged edges) but it plays. Sizing is really your option, but sometimes using component inputs can limit the choices because they are dumb inputs that depend on the device connected to do any adjusting and basically turn the set into a monitor. A/V and S-video inputs restore sizing choices, but don't pass progressive scan signals. The only reason to get an HD receiver is to receive HD signals. The digital DVI/HDMI will not show any real improvement over component connections, but should improve from the A/V in color and black levels. Your 5063 actually has a DVI connection, not HDMI. If you don't want the HD package right now, but want to receive your local digital HD network channels, which are broadcasted over the air in UHF for free, get the Samsung SIR TS360 Direct TV HD/Terrestrial receiver. The component connection is what I use. I didn't see any improvement when I used the DVI cable, so I put the DVI cable on my Samsung upconverting HD841 progressive scan DVD player. You can connect an old style Wineguard or Radio Shack uhf antenna to the TS360 and pull in your local networks in digital, which is incredibly clear. Then, at night, the digital networks transmit true 720P and 1080I HD prime-time programming that fills the sreen with awesome viewing pleasure for free. Take the digital coax or optical audio from the TS360 to your surround sound home theater receiver for a true 5 channel movie house experience that will blow you away. The TS 360 has a guide that combines the off-air uhf digital channels with the Direct TV programming so there is no need to change the input source. The Samsung HD841 DVD player is fantastic. I got mine from Tiger Direct. It is a like-new refurb for $69.95, reg. $199.99 and it plays 1:85.1 format DVD's like they were HD. Here are the links. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=12939 31&Sku=L420-5032&SRCCODE=PRICEGRABBER&CMP=OTC-PRICEGRABBER |
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FYI Unregistered guest | Anon, Are you using component cables or DVI/HDMI from the sat receiver? Is the black-out channel specific? |
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CerealKiller Unregistered guest | FYI, Thanks for the tips, however my 5063 DOES have HDMI and DVI inputs in the back of the TV, I checked. Also I didn't see a progressive scan option in my PS2 config menu, maybe this is only an option on the newer PS2 models? I have the old one. The reciver I have right now for satelite is A/V or S-video ONLY, so I was wondering if HDMI or DVI or component would be better, I hate spending $299 for a new reciver but if it will make sat channels look better then it might be worth it. Thanks for the link to the DVD player that is the one I have had my eye on, but I'm waiting to see if I can get my other devices to look good on my new TV before I go out and buy a bunch of new ones. Thanks again  |
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FYI Unregistered guest | It's the new ones that will make the difference. I didn't know I had an HDMI input. I just saw the big DVI sticking out. I learn something new every day! Thanks! You're only getting 480I from those PS games. Check eBay for the newer PS2. Can't beat that price on the HD841. Better jump all over it. My refurb was like-new with a warranty. If refurb isn't for you, here are other prices. It's still better than full retail. http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?sort_type=price&masterid=2896859& isbn=&pid= |
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Anonymous | Re: Problem with Samsung projection 50" HD TV HLP5085W Thank you to those who responded to my 'help' call on my new Samsung HD TV. I would like to answer the questions that some of you have asked. I'm sorry but I can't answer the question about whether I'm using component cables or about DVI/HDMI. I'm not too knowledgeable about the wiring and hook up aspects. The installation was done by Installers sent by Circuit City and the DVD & VCR were hooked up by a friend. The blackouts occur on any channel and on HD or regular broadcasts. I have a DVD hooked up but there are no blackouts. The cable from the dish goes to the HD receiver and from there separate wires go out to the TV and to a VCR. There has never been a blackout on a tape that I made while I was watching and I have noted the exact scenes in the shows where blackouts occurred to compare with the tape. I have played and replayed them with friends but there are no blackouts on the tapes. I had 4 blackout episodes during last Sunday's 'Deadwood' show. Can't blame Al Swearington for that!!! About the blackouts, as I call them. The screen goes black for a couple of seconds and then it goes back to normal with no flickereing or anything else. A friend tells me that because the tape from the VCR has no blackouts I should suspect the TV since they both come from the same cable from the dish. The Circuit City Technician dismissed this idea immediately. Oh - I forgot to mention that I have three other receivers (not HD) coming from the same dish antenna and none of those have blackouts. Thank you very much. John |
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FYI Unregistered guest | The problem is definitely not the 5085. Otherwise, black-outs would occur playing the VCR. I suspect the problem lies in the connection from the sat receiver to the set. Follow the connection from the set to see where it truly goes. They should be component cables. (Pr, Pb, Y) If not, then it's an s-video or a single yellow video, both of which should never be used on your type of set. If it's not any of these, a DVI or HDMI cable may be in use and it could be the culprit. Your friend is incorrect as the dish feeds the HD receiver. The HD receiver feeds the VCR and maybe the set directly or maybe not. The set may be connected only to the VCR. This could make the VCR pass-through circuit suspect to being the problem. In any case, playing a tape doesn't cause the set to black-out, so it's certainly not the set. A solid connection from the HD receiver to the set using component Pr, Pb, Y cables will tell the story. The VCR is a dinosaur and should never be used between the connection from the HD receiver to the set. It will rob signal quality and act as another place for something to go wrong if the pass-through circuit is faulty. Your 5085 should always have a direct connection to the signal source, which in your case, is the sat receiver. Only DVI/HDMI or Pr, Pb, Y conections should be used, preferably both. That way you can switch between the two inputs to see if one or the other is better. Any recording device, which should be a high quality DVR for that set, needs a seperate connection from the sat receiver. |
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Klaus Unregistered guest | FYI above is correct in suspecting the cable connction between the receiver and the TV. I have seen in other posts a similar drop out using DVI/HDMI cable from receiver to TV. You need to determine what the connection from receiver to TV is first. Then try a different cable ( same or different type HDMI or component) and then maybe a different input on the TV. I have component cables running to my set through my surround receiver and don't see any value in the more expensive digital cables. PQ is much more dependent on the source quality than connection quality. |
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New member Username: Gaetano24Post Number: 1 Registered: May-05 | on the bottom of My samsung dlp hln 5065 I bought in 2003, there is a small spot of blue, like the mirrors aren't reflecting the color, anyone know anything about this??? |
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New member Username: TcnineKenner, LA United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-05 | Screeching/Extented Warranty I've had my 5065W for about a 18 mos. Love it. But about a year ago, the picture would not come on. Sound but no visual. Samsung warranty had trouble find a tech in my area (New Orleans, LA) but finally did and he replaced the light engine. Recently, on power up I hear a screeching noise, kind of like a circular saw but higher in pitch. It's intermittent and often goes away after warm up. I use my TV infrequently if that matters. Anyway, is this noise emanating from a fan that cools the bulb or is this a light wheel problem? Also, Samsung did not offer an extended warranty nor did the retailer. Any suggestions on how to get a warranty on the TV? FYI Unregistered guest Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 06:19 pm: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here's a test you can try. Turn the set on. Before the screeching/high pitch quits, turn it off. The fan will keep running for about a minute, but the color wheel stops the second you turn it off. If the sound quits it's the color wheel. If it continues it's the fan. I'll bet it's the color wheel. Thanks FYI and sorry it's so late getting back to you. It seems to be the fan, not the color wheel. Anybody know how much that will run me and where you can get the part (if it's easy enough to change for someone with medium skill)? The light engine was just replaced a year ago. On another subject, any opinions on component vs. DVI? I have a cable connection with component video and it seems to do a good job although lately my lower channel stations are much snowier than the digital stations. I suspect a bad splitter and have changed out both that I can find but to no avail. Thanks! TC |
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FYI Unregistered guest | Gotta like a fellow with the name Tom Collins! Tom, Shouldn't be a big deal! Samsung parts has it. BP31-00002A FAN G9225L12B2-FS (WS) ,HLM507W,WITH 3PI $64.03 http://www.samsungparts.com/Default.asp?cookie%5Ftest=1 I've tried both and I like Pr, Pb, Y components myself. I have this warranty. Works for me. http://www.cpscorporation.com/index.aspx |
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Anonymous | I've a HLN4365W. Here's the problem, the set was originally setup with componet cables from the STB to TV. HiDef, SD worked fine. then I decided to use the dvi port from the STB to TV. Didn't notice much difference so switched back to componet hookup. Now I get black borders around picture. On HD, the screen fills to the side but black bars at top & bottom. Here's the wierd part, when the a widescreen movie is shown the picture shrinks even more. What the heck is going on. Has anyone else run into this problem? |
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New member Username: TcnineKenner, LA United States Post Number: 2 Registered: Apr-05 | Thanks FYI! Yep. Cruel parents (with regards to my name!) They swear to this day that it wasn't intentional, however, I think that's how my conception came about, so I don't complain. TC |
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FYI Unregistered guest | Tom, I forgot to mention that cable really sucks. Folks with sat signal don't experience snow, static or herring bone lines ever. A digital display deserves a digital signal source. Even so called digital cable isn't really digital. All NTSC analog channels, which is 95% of their programming may or may not go through conversions on the way to your set. If they digitize trash analog signal on their end it converts back to analog trash on your end. The snowy low end means that a portion of the analog spectrum is hitting some resistance either in the plant or in your house. It's probably in the plant. All you can do is make sure your fittings are tight and call the cable company and tell them about it. It's their job to make sure the slope/gain circuits deliver the full spectrum at the same signal level to your home. |
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FYI Unregistered guest | Anon, Is the STB cable or sat? I'm guessing cable! Both have service menus that control picture sizing before your set gets a chance to. Cable STB's must be set to pass through the signal. There's usually no problem with sat converters. The better ones have sizing on the remote. I didn't see any improvement with DVI either! |
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XP3A5AN Unregistered guest | Hello all, I was hoping that some of you could give me some real world advice that is positive and encouraging about the Samsung HL-R5677W. I have viewed this television in multiple retail stores and I was highly impressed with the clarity and quality of the picture. For the price point, based on what I can see it is the best out there. I have compared to the Toshiba's/RCA's and Sony televisions and I come back to this model and really feel that it is the best. My concerns here are I am reading through the threads and I am really worried about investing 2K + on a unit that I can expect within less then 12 months to have issues. I am totally new to this technology; I have done quite a bit of research and price point comparisons. I currently would like to replace a Sony Tabletop 42" television, which is a great set but about 10 years old. Plasma is too expensive and just is not worth the spend, LCD is just too pixilated and I just don't like it at this time, I am looking for a unit that will last me another 10 years, is this unit the right unit or should I be looking at something else or better yet should I just wait? I appreciate any opinions back and thank you for taking the time to address my concerns and reading my comments. |
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FYI Unregistered guest | The 77 is too new to have any feedback on this forum or any other. I don't suspect owners will have issues with the set in general, but it may give owners a fit that try to use the CableCard. The 77 is the same light engine, screen, etc. as the 74, which is absent the CableCard and useless internal digital tuner. There are still a lot of 74's available out there. Cable isn't something you want to hook up to these sets anyway. Sat signal is true digital and far more reliable. Lamps are under $200 when needed and either set will last several decades. The 74 will cost less, though. http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?sort_type=price&masterid=8192826& isbn=&pid= http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?sort_type=price&masterid=5029645& isbn=&pid= |
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New member Username: 5thwheelerTorrance, CA United States Post Number: 7 Registered: Apr-05 | Directv blackout problems [url]http://www.highdefforum.com/showthread.php?t=7914][/url] |
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XP3A5AN Unregistered guest | FYI, thanks for the feedback, I will begin to look for the 74. I currently have digital cable, to take advantage of this new set I should really have SAT? thanks again for the feedback |
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XP3A5AN Unregistered guest | FYI, thanks for the feedback, I will begin to look for the 74. I currently have digital cable, to take advantage of this new set I should really have SAT? thanks again |
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FYI Unregistered guest | Digital cable is not really all digital. Only about 5% is true digital signal. The rest is old analog NTSC that goes through conversions for the ride to your neighborhood or STB. Cable Standard Definition is much worse than sat SD. Try your cable first since you have it. If you are not satisfied, switch. 5thwheeler, That problem is receiver specific! There are many different receivers. |
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New member Username: OldbrandyMission Viejo, CA USA Post Number: 1 Registered: May-05 | Hi 5thwheeler, Would love to see that report 'Directv blackout problems' that you provided the url to. However I can't access the site - I get this message: 403 - Forbidden You do not have permission to access the requested directory or document on this server. If you believe you should be able to view this directory or document, please try to contact the web site owner by using an e-mail address or phone number that may be provided on the owners website. Any chance that you could let us see this report? Thank you. John |
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New member Username: 5thwheelerTorrance, CA United States Post Number: 8 Registered: Apr-05 | You may have to go through the front door and register on that forum. http://www.highdefforum.com |
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New member Username: 5thwheelerTorrance, CA United States Post Number: 9 Registered: Apr-05 | There is growing evidence that the Black out problem is H10 receiver related. There is a poll entitled "If you have an H10 receiver and use HDMI, COME IN HERE." in progress on the "High Def Forum" http://www.highdefforum.com/ |
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FYI to John Unregistered guest | John, It's about the H10 Hughes receiver having a firmware problem. It has nothing to do with the downlink. All other brands of receivers and other Hughes models are working fine. No glitches on my Samsung SIR TS360 in Dallas. |
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SONICR Unregistered guest | for the guys asking about setting a PlayStation2 to HD, you can't really. the PS2 doesn't support HD out of the box, it's up to the Software to be Coded for it. so there isn't any Option to set Internally in the PS2 for HD, Except for DVD Movies on the SCPH-50000 series and the new Slim SCPH-70000 series. For the few PS2 games that do support it, you activate it either in the game's Options or by Holding down certain buttons at the PS2 opening screen untill the game loads up fully. XBOX on the other hand is ment for HD, as will be the XBOX-360 later this year. so it has internal HD options. |
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To SONICR Unregistered guest | You are confusing 480P with HD! Only 720P and 1080I are HD! |
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Anonymous | Thanks to Klaus and others for your suggestions re blackouts on my new Samsung HD TV(HLP 5085W) using Directv. I had tried many things on the advice of the technicians at Directv including switching out HD receivers. Nothing seemed to work. Two days ago I showed a friend your posts on this subject and he switched out the HDMI cable from the HD receiver to the TV, replacing it with component cables. I haven't seen ONE blackout since the switch. I am surprised that Directv and Samsung, do not tell people about this solution. They must receive a substantial amount of complaints. There are several forums on these blackouts on other Internet discussion boards. Thanks again to all of you who responded. |
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Anonymous | Have a Samsung HLP5063W purchased 7/04. Recently have occasionally gotten 3 lights of death. Sometimes set will come on after repeated off/on attempts, sometimes we just leave it a while, sometimes have to wait till the next day. Has always come back on. No other problems so far (see a lot of post of smudges, sync problems, etc.) Called CC, have extended warranty. They said repairman could come out, get bulb code, order bulb, then come back and replace bulb - or CC would ship me a box and I could send them bulb and they would ship me a replacement. I thought they should ship me the bulb, but told them to ship the empty box. When box arrived it had a bulb! Problem is, they shipped BP96-00224J but existing bulb in set is BP96-00608A(P) - which I had told CC. More confusing, Samsung's web site says HLP5063W uses BP-00837A. Called CC repair again, they transferred me to their parts dept, parts dept said call Samsung, Samsung said call CC. No one could confirm if the shipped bulb was correct, also, Samsung said if I replaced bulb it would probably void warranty. At that I called CC (again!), told them I give up and to send repairman. |
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New member Username: SturmyPost Number: 2 Registered: May-05 | I have a Samsung HLN-617W DLP. Here's the problem. Sometimes when I turn the TV on, the sound comes on (through my indpendent surround system), but the picture does not. The middle green light remains blinking. Then, the TV shuts itself off and turns back on. This happens a few times until finally all three lights blink and nothing more happens. I turn the TV on and off, go through this mess a few more times, and finally the picture magically comes on and it works fine. Can someone please tell me what is wrong with my TV? |
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FYI Unregistered guest | Anon, Your set was purchased in 07/04. You should only deal with 1-800-SAMSUNG, period. It is their responsibility to provide the Phillips lamp with the correct housing and a Samsung authorized tech to swap it. John, Your lamp is on it's way out. BP47-00016A LAMP-BALLAST EUC 120 P/H 11,120W P/H 11, $146.76 http://www.samsungparts.com/ |
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Anonymous | Hi everyone, I am thinking of buying the new Samsung HLP5067 and with all these postings, I don't know anymore. Any advice please . . . |
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Anonymous | Have a 3 week old samsung 6163HLP set and love the picture! But when watching HD channels, occasionally, the picture does not 'flow'. I just see the picture change slowly, frame-by-frame, like I'm fast forwarding a DVD. The audio sounds fine, however. I have to change the channel and come back to get rid of this effect. Is this a known issue? it seems to happen mostly with ESPNHD but I am not 100% on that. |
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FYI Unregistered guest | What cables are you using? Component or DVI/HDMI? Too many Anon's around here! Get creative, please. Anon, No known problems with the 67's. There is a newer "HLR" xx67 with a 5th gen light engine! |
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Road Warrior Unregistered guest | Anonymous, I have been reading lots of forums and it appears to me that the new generation of Samsung DLP's is much better than their last gen. I am looking at the HLR5067W as well. Apparently, many of the issues with the HLP5063W have been resolved with the new set. Including that of an air bearing color wheel. For those who dont know what air bearings are it will be a color wheel which spins around on a cushion of air as opposed to something mechanical like balls (hence, ball bearing). I assume most people understand the concept but I saw someone ask the question in another forum so I figured I would tell. Obviously, being that it is air, the only friction is that of 'air tension' similar to that of water tension. These bearings are extremely efficient because of their low friction and you will never hear any whining noise because of a failed bearing; however, if the device providing the layer of air fails......bye bye color wheel...but I havent heard of that happening...yet. The HLR5067W also has the lastest gen DLP chips. From what I have seen I think this set is still an excellent choice. There have been some problems but it seems that Samsung has realized these shortcomings and anyone who has had the issues has been serviced properly if not even beyond their expectations. Even after reading everything I am still sold on this set.....now, if I can somehow figure out how to get the 56" instead..... |
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FYI Unregistered guest | The 67 doesn't have the latest chip, just the latest light engine. It's still a 720P display. The new chip will be a 1080P display. |
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Road Warrior Unregistered guest | Let me clarify, it has the latest 720p Gen 5 chip. The 1080p chip is available in the HLR5688 but not the HLR5068 |
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FYI Unregistered guest | There is no 5068 in production or planning. The 1080P chip will be in the HLR 5668,6168, & 6768! The 1080 chip will also be in other models. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=207d8dc2cb98fabc8528622c197ba394 &threadid=493443 |
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twick Unregistered guest | how is the 4667 compared to the 4663? Is it worth payer $250 more to get a the 4667? Both sets are new in the box. Any advice or opinions |
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Bronze Member Username: 5thwheelerTorrance, CA United States Post Number: 12 Registered: Apr-05 | It appears that Directv solved the blackout problem for now, its been three days and I haven't had any problems. By the way, the blackout problem only occurred when I was watching satellite channels, and not the over the air locals. |
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FYI Unregistered guest | The 67 takes the place of the 63 with a newer, faster 720P chip in it's 5th generation light engine. Added is the CableCard and internal digital tuner in a floating screen design. |
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New member Username: GarrickmoskoPost Number: 1 Registered: May-05 | I have the 61 in samsung dlp and it seems that the dark images that I watch whether on a dvd or hdtv (dtv) the blacks seem to be like digitized. A bright picture looks great, but the dark ones look terrible. I already had the light engine and main board replaced, but i can't remember if it looked the same way before. I had a problem with a red tint before. |
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undertaker Unregistered guest | FYI, Anon 2 with the 6163HLP here. I'm using the component cables. I checked with a friend that has 5663 and he sees the same issue. Also, are HDMI cables worth the price? I got the component cables for free from dish TV... Thanks |
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undertaker Unregistered guest | FYI, Anon 2 with the 6163HLP here. I'm using the component cables. I checked with a friend that has 5663 and he sees the same issue. Also, are HDMI cables worth the price? I got the component cables for free from dish TV... Thanks |
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New member Username: GarrickmoskoPost Number: 2 Registered: May-05 | anon 2 do you have any problems with your tv as far as black issues...i am using the hdmi to connect my dtv to my tv. have hdtivo |
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Unregistered guest | Having a problem with my Sammy HLP5663... every button on the set/remote turns the tv either on or off. Performance wise it seems dandy (my std source its stuck on looks just fine) but I'm unable to change the source or do anything (picture size, etc.) or the tv turns off. I have no blinking lights on the front panel, no noises that I'm aware of, and it isn't particularly hot.... Any thoughts? Oh, and even pressing the mode button (to change the r/c to tv, std, aux, etc) turns it on/off which I thought was just weird. |
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New member Username: StrongbowPost Number: 1 Registered: May-05 | Purchased the HLP5063 and right out of the box had the color wheel noise. Called Samsung two days later (Friday @ 4pm) - They came out on Monday (two of them) and put in a new color wheel, even though when they came there was no noise. Very good service. Now I'm seeing smudges on the screen, very hard to notice unless there is a light colored screen. Looks like I will be calling them again soon. Anyone had to call Samsung for the smudge problem and have it fixed? What did they do? |
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Tyler Eaton Unregistered guest | In response to myself: Turns out the power was stuck half depressed (That silly circular power button in the center of the set) and that was causing every button press to turn the set off... Very odd, but now that I have popped it out everything works fine. Such a weird thing to happen... |
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New member Username: TcnineKenner, LA United States Post Number: 3 Registered: Apr-05 | I ordered a replacement part from J & J international dba "Samsung Parts" about 2 weeks ago. Still no tracking info so I made a phone call to them. The part is out of stock and will not be in for another 4 weeks. I told the rep that I thought it was a terrible diservice to the customer (as you wait on hold for a someone to answer the recorded message brags about how good their customer service is!) to not inform them when a part is out of stock. Has anybody else had problems with these guys? Can anybody recommend somewhere else where I may be able to purchase the part? It's a light fan for a HLN5065, part no. BP31-00002A. Thanks TC |
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New member Username: KlausHoliday, FL USA Post Number: 6 Registered: May-05 | Kevchristian: The smudge on the screen issue is a known one. It involves replacing the screen with a new single layer screen. You can usually get rid of the marks by gently rubbing them with a clan paper towel. |
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New member Username: GarrickmoskoPost Number: 3 Registered: May-05 | has anyone had their tv calibrated? 61 in samsung dlp? |
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