Archive through January 30, 2005
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 25 Registered: Dec-04 | Oh hey, I just used FS's stock availabilty checker thingy Mike... I checked three Toronto stores as well as the Windsor one... the TO stores were out, but the Windsor one says they have stock! Phone and be sure though, because I know that they OFTEN say they have stock and don't. Tell them where you are coming from and ask that they please hold it for you and they probably will if you come that same or next day. Who knows.. .you might get it for a penny ;) The phone number is: (519) 966-6070 and the "Web ID" for the stand is: 10053158 Good luck! |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 26 Registered: Dec-04 | Jean, have you figured out a solution to your PC input problem yet? I haven't tried it yet, but I'll get to it soon if I remember. I have WinXP and an AIW 9600XT. the Grafix card doesn't have DVI, so I'll only be able to try with the RGB. |
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New member Username: Sir_enitieToronto, ON CANADA Post Number: 5 Registered: Jan-05 | I'm sorry to say, Steven -- and you certainly sound like a nice enough guy in general -- but that IS a little bit of a jerk-off maneuver. Obviously, nobody would expect you to give the stand away for nothing. Surely, however, considering that you paid one cent for the item, you could sell it privately for half of retail, plus shipping. That way, you'd still be nicely in the black, and you'd have a little karma on your side to boot. |
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Mike Schmidt Unregistered guest | Steven, I still do not have the TV so by no means wait for me... I was trying to plan everything out... |
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Anonymous | Sir Enitie, I gotta disagree with you. I know if I had the choice of selling something for 300.00 or 200.00, I'd pick the 300.00 every time. As I see it, he's keeping the stand they gave him for 1 cent, and returning the 299.00 one. Ultimately he gets a free stand out of the deal. Selling the other one for less would be a loss for him. |
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New member Username: Sir_enitieToronto, ON CANADA Post Number: 6 Registered: Jan-05 | That's fine, Anon, I respect your opinion. From my personal point of view, Steven got lucky when he got one of his stands for free (OK, one cent, but let's not argue semantics). He can pass on that luck, share the karma, and make a handsome profit all in one fell swoop. Look, logically you're absolutely right -- if you can sell the item at one price, why take any less for it? I can't argue that point. But morally, given the situation, I'd probably sell it for something less than market value, still make a tidy buck, and feel good about myself in the process. Maybe that's just me. |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 27 Registered: Dec-04 | I see. So good karma comes from calling people a jerk-off? Given that I can and will easily take the $300 stand back for a refund, I believe I was perfectly moral in offering it to someone else who may not have been able to secure a supply of their own regardless of price. I was not out to seek any further profit by charging a higher price (which only makes sense economically) but I wasn't about to lose out either. Sure, I got lucky. Luck happens - good and bad. Karma is about balance and you take the good with the bad, its not about only taking the bad and giving your good away. That's for fools. And frankly, I'd rather be a jerk-off than a fool. |
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New member Username: Sir_enitieToronto, ON CANADA Post Number: 7 Registered: Jan-05 | Steven, it certainly wasn't my intention to start a row here. I was merely pointing out that, given the circumstances, charging Mike full retail price for the unit seemed a little selfish. I fully appreciate the flip side of the argument, as well as the laws of supply, demand and elasticity. I was merely offering an alternative point of view. You're the one who preambled your remark by saying, "Now, I don't mean to sound like a jerk..." -- which says to me that you do feel that there's something just a little bit wrong with charging Mike full price for the stand, even if it's only borderline. All this is a moot point, as Mike doesn't want the unit. And you're absolutely right, I shouldn't have called you a jerk-off. So allow me to be the peacemaker and apologize for that remark. |
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Anonymous | children children.....play nice!! seriously, he got a stand for free. If he sells the other one for say, 200.00, then the stand he got for free has now cost him 100.00. Where's the logic in giving away 100.00, or paying 100.00 for something you already got for free??? Screw karma! I wouldn't give away 100 bucks to someone I didn't know either!! |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 28 Registered: Dec-04 | Apology accepted Enitie. And yes, you are right that I did sort of call myself a jerk first. But no, its not because I feel some sort of guilt or anything... its actually because my girlfriend thinks like you - actually worse - and thinks I should "be honest" and take it to the store and get my penny back. So I was already in defense mode to begin with. However, I didn't harp back at her like I did you (possibly because you don't offer the same...err... "benefits" as she does) and I should realize that others would share her (and your) viewpoint. Anyway. Clearly there are two sides to look at it and I'm on one side. You are absolutely correct in that this is a moot point. How about we agree to end this here so we can have this thread get back on topic? Cooler heads prevailed! Cheers. |
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Bronze Member Username: JeanmontyPost Number: 28 Registered: Nov-04 | Steven, The display is not that bad at what seems the default 4:3 aspect ration although I had to tweak the fonts somewhat. ATI sell a gadget that allows to connect through one of the component input : I might try it and keep the DVI for the cable box. Anyways I'll let you know as soon as I learn something. Have a nice evening. Jean |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 29 Registered: Dec-04 | Jean, Think twice about the component gadget. That is for sending a component video signal to a tv as a tv, not as a monitor- there would be no two way communication to the computer and you would not be truely using it as a monitor. I could very well be wrong, but I know much more about computers than I do tvs. It would seem to me that it would be next to impossible to truely use the real estate on your tv this way. Double check, but I would think you are better off using the RGB cable for the computer and the DVI for your cable box and leaving the component be. The RGB or DVI provide feedback to the computer and the component wouldn't. I haven't tried the RGB personally yet, but I have tried sending the signal to the tv with the ATI's composite (yellow) video and it looks like crap! The component would give a cleaner signal, but you still wouldn't get the two way you need to have the computer use the tv/monitor correctly to display the appropriate resolution. Mind you - if that adapter is only a few bucks then it could totally be worth it to see if I'm wrong ;) Good luck either way. Steve |
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Mr. Fun Unregistered guest | Thanks for all the great info. I'm ready to buy one at video only this week. Since some of you have now had your 44NHM84s for a few weeks now are there any additional comments? In particular I would like to know: * Are you still happy with the standard def picture? I will still use this for regular TV 75% of the time. * Has anyone else seen the aspect ratio issue mentioned by Steven above with the Shrek DVD? I saw someone else referred to "automatic aspect ratio." Steven, were you able to resolve it to your satisfaction? Thanks very much for any input. |
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Unregistered guest | After reading all of the wonderful things everyone has to say about the 44NHM84, I ordered one last week from Future Shop in Ontario Canada. My girlfriend works there so I got a fantastic deal. Her cost was 2389.04, including the free (1 cent) stand. Also she has a status card so I paid no pst or gst. Sweet, huh? Anyways it arrived yesterday. It was a thing of beauty. I admired her after the uncrating and stared for a while. When it came time to plug it in, the disapointment started. Zero, zilch, nada. I could see through the vents that the light was on and the color wheel was turning (I could hardly hear it otherwise). Hmmmm.. what could it be? Even the romote didn't do anything. Then I noticed some discoloration behind the anti-reflective screen, starting on the bottom left about 2 inches up and extending to the bottom middle of the screen. Something was not right. We had one of the managers come by cuz he lives just around the corner from us and he comfirmed that something was terribly wrong and to return it in the morning. We did just that. While moving the tv today, the entire glass panel behind the anti-reflective screen collapsed. No big deal, except we have to wait 4 or 5 days for a new one. It's gonna be a painful time. I'll report on my likes and dislikes when I finally get it up and running... |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 30 Registered: Dec-04 | Wow Brooky. Good deal.. sort of  Great deal when you get a working one! Mr. Fun. I'm still very pleased with the SD picture and I'm sure you'll find it the same. I too use it 75% of the time (rest is DVD). As far as the aspect ratio, I'm pretty sure this does NOT have that feature. People were saying that the larger Tosh has it, but if this one has it I can't find it. So no, I haven't been able to figure it out. I guess I just have to toggle between the various settings until I get the one that works the best - unfortunately, I can never seem to be certain I have the "best" one. The only thing I can seem to decide on is that "TheatreWide 1" is stupid (distorts the sides). "TheaterWide 2" appears to work great for non-DVD broadcasts in letterbox. "Full (16:9)" so far isnt' good for anything (I don't have HD feed). "Natural (4:3)" is obviously what to use on standard broadcasts that aren't in letterbox. and "TheaterWide 3" never has looked right on anything so far. Most of the time, I use Natural and TW2. I'm betting that Full will be the one to use 100% of the time when everything eventually goes full HD. Until then, I set up my Harmony Remote (Do a Google - EVERYONE needs one of these babies) to switch between the two with one button. Since SD normally is on Natural and DVDs are normally on TW2, I have the Harmony switch automatically to those settings when using the respective activity. on that not - honestly people, if you don't know what the Harmony Remote is... look it up because it is FANTASTIC! Best $100 I've ever spent on home theater. Err... Normally $200 though, I got it half off on Boxing Day. Cheers all. |
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Anonymous | Jean, don't put high hope on C/S cable. It is desgined for using the ATI with TV without DVI or D-Sub connection. Your best bet is DVI, then HDB15 (RGB on 44NHM84).....in theory, but in practice I see analog connection best the DVI counterpart on some dual mode LCD panel. DVI is digital signal, where HDB15 is analog but the signal loss is extremely small. I don't mean to pick on Steve, so don't take it personally. Being capable to transmit signal in both directions (two-way) doesn't make picture quality any better, it will help Windows to detect your monitor type and that's pretty much all it does. Y-Pb-Pr or analog component video signal supports 720p or the native resolution of HD2+, so yes, in theory, it can utilize the 44NHM84, and in practice, this is exactly what 44NHM84 does in HD mode. |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 31 Registered: Dec-04 | That's exactly what I meant by two-way communication. I wasn't trying to imply it would have a better picture because of the signal... what it does is allow Windows to know what resolution is required for the display. However, in effect, it does make for a better picture as well. When using composite or component or any connection relating to "video out" or "tv out" on a video card, all you are getting is a processed feed spewed along those wires to whatever is at the other end to try to interpret it. Ie. your tv becomes nothing more than a dummy termination and is NOT acting as a computer monitor. With the dvi or rgb, the computer better knows how to communicate with the device and can (at least try to) accomodate its needs by recognizing and allowing for the proper resolution. However, in Jean's case it sounded like his Win2k box was not "getting it" because it was not displaying the wide screen properly (if I understood correctly). Anyway, I tried it today. With the composite I get a stretched video feed and I can hardly read the text and the icons are all but useless. With the RGB feed, and some tweaking with the display settings, I now have a 44" 1280x720 monitor that is actually usable as a computer monitor display. While I could be wrong (since I haven't tried it) I am pretty certain that had I used the Y-Pb-Pr feed instead (with the adapter I don't have) that I would have simply had a slightly more clear version of what I achieved (if you can call it that) with the composite. |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 32 Registered: Dec-04 | After ready anon's post again - I think we're arguing the same point. |
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Bronze Member Username: JeanmontyPost Number: 29 Registered: Nov-04 | Steven, Thanks for the feedback. Could you describe you setup to achieve a usable 1280x720 on RGB ? Include OS, monitor driver, graphic adapter and any other relevant info please. About the two-way communication, I am under the impression that the dongle (that's what the gadget ATI sells is) will take that role in lieu of the monitor ; it even has its own driver. I may try it tonight, if Future Shop has it here. Otherwise I would have to order it directly from ATI at 50$ canadian. |
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Bronze Member Username: JeanmontyPost Number: 30 Registered: Nov-04 | BTW, here the user manual of the dongle http://www.ati.com/support/manualpdf/CmpVidAd.pdf Jean |
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Anonymous | Hi all, I have had the 44" Toshiba DLP TV for 3 weeks now. My 25 year old son hooked it up to a Yamaha receiver (mid range power) a Toshiba upconverting DVD player, and the Spherex Omnipolar speaker system. Not sure how he connected it all up, I do know he used the HDMI cable that came with the player (had to buy a Monster HDMI to DVI adapter) but everything works. DVD actually plays at 720 lines and is amazing. My opinion is that SD reception is better than my old crt set, and touch wood, there have been no quality issues. BTW, the TV remote does have settings for viewing in daylight, nighttime, movie mode etc. and yes there is a difference in each mode. |
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Gartz Unregistered guest | Can anyone confirm if the bulb in the 44nhm84 is user replacable (by a non-techy person)? BTW, Leon's furniture store has the TV on sale for $2499 CDN + taxes until Jan. 30. That includes the tv stand and delivery. |
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Anonymous | Jean, the component dongle may help you to utilize the 1280x720p of the 44NHM84 as it takes the guess work out from the driver, switch to 720p and you have 720p signal, simple and easy (assume ATI did it correctly). However, the purpose of the adapter is for using the ATI with TV without VGA or DVI, the best achievable performance for your PC/HDTV setup is to use DVI directly to the 44NHM84. I dont have time to try out PC/HDTV setup yet so I dont have any quick answer for you, but ATI has added theatre-mode to their driver a while back. Make sure you are using the latest driver and take a look before you buy the dongle. Steve V NO, we are not arguing the same point. Bi-direction capability of HDB25 and DVI is totally irrelevant and did not solve Jeans problem, it only provides the opportunity for Windows to learn that it is talking to a 44NHM84, so potentially able to determine the available display modes. Windows wont utilize the 1280x720 by itself even though It knows a 44NHM84 is connected. To solve Jeans problem, you should tell her how to setup the ATI driver to send 1280x720 NI signal to 44NHM84 via VGA and DVI. The dongle may actually solve her problem, and in fact may work as good as VGA connection, reason I say that is because VGA and Y, Pb, Pr are both analog signals. Composite connection and S-Video are different stories; they are not designed to handle 720p signal, so it wont solve Jeans problem. |
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Anonymous | anon, how's the Spherex 5.1? Gartz, yes the bulb is user replacable with a screwdriver. |
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Bronze Member Username: SirengalPost Number: 33 Registered: Dec-04 | I have my ATI card setup with my DVI Cable to my 44NHM84 TV and it works like a charm. All you need to do is change your resolution to 800 X 600 on the computer and voila. Windows Media Player or any movie players will allow you to to switch it to Theatre Mode. |
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Bronze Member Username: SirengalPost Number: 34 Registered: Dec-04 | I have my ATI card setup with my DVI Cable to my 44NHM84 TV and it works like a charm. All you need to do is change your resolution to 800 X 600 on the computer and voila. Windows Media Player or any movie players will allow you to to switch it to Theatre Mode. |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 33 Registered: Dec-04 | Jean - thanks for the link to the dongle... they aren't converting the signal the way I assumed they would. It might very well work for you and I'd be very interested to find out what happens. As far as my exact setup, I'd need to wait until I get back home to give many of the details, but the basics are as follows: WinXP Corp SP2; ATI AIW 9600XT; resolution set to 1280x720* * Anon... this is why bidirectional is NECESSARY, not just helpful. When I connect via video, I CANNOT choose this resolution because it is "not available for the connected display". Yes I know composite doesn't support 720p, but that's the tv's problem and not the computers.. so whether or not I was using component or composite, the computer would not know or care because its getting no feedback for the device on the other end. We ARE in fact arguing the same point, but you are looking at it from the tv's point of view and I the computer's. I fully appreciate what you are saying, but without using RGB or DVI (or a dongle that converts from that signal) you would not be able to achieve 1280x720, regardless of whether or not the tv can operate in that mode. So while bi-directional capability doesn't "solve" jean's problem per se, it is a necessary contributor to the solution. But a disclaimer - what do I know? I'm just talking from experience. There may be some video cards that can get feedback along a standard video line but mine can't. There may be some that can force a resoluntion regardless of what is connected, but mine can't. There may be some people that can make it work, but I can't. The above is my opinion only in an attempt to be helpful... anon doesn't like it and that's fine (btw. why not give us a name so I'm not grouping you with the rest of the anons?) |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 34 Registered: Dec-04 | Hey Gartz! I went to Leon's website and I can't find any mention of the $2499 price. Do you know which store that was? |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 35 Registered: Dec-04 | Ok ok... now I KNOW anon (whichever anon it was) is going to jump on me.. .hehehe I phoned FS about the Leon's $2499 and they just applied a credit of $220 + tax to my bill *HUGE GRIN* So now my price was $2699.00 + $0.01 (stand) - $299 (other stand) - $220.00 (price match) = $2180.01 INCLUDING a stand. Lol. You speak of Karma baby... but clearly I must have been doing ok and now its my turn. Incidentally... Red Dear, Alberta has ONE unit left for the $2499 price including stand and local delivery. Talk to Pauline... she said they would give it to me for $2429 (3% "pickup" discount) to help cover the cost of shipping to BC if I did buy it. And I would have, except that FS matched... so if one of you want to jump on it... good luck. |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 36 Registered: Dec-04 | Oh, and that's Canadian funds - in case anyone is wondering. Currently that is about USD$1763. So you US folks getting $1800 units are already getting smoking deals! (but do they get the stand?) |
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Bronze Member Username: JeanmontyPost Number: 31 Registered: Nov-04 | Ahem ! 'Jean' is french for 'John'... but don't stop being nice on that account. ROTFL Jean 'Johnny boy' Montambeault |
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Anonymous | Steve, >> Anon... this is why bidirectional is NECESSARY, not just helpful. << No, it is not necessary; it is just helpful, even that is questionable. Now a brief PC historyK Windows 95 introduced PnP to PC, but it is barely usable until Win98 (some said until XP). PnP is useful for many internal devices (modem, graphic adapter, sound card) as it take the guess work of interrupt, DMA from users, so no jumpers, no resource conflicts or code 10 error in Win95. For monitor, it is pretty useless. PnP VGA card is supposed to work with any DCD1 (single-direction) and DCD2B (bi-direction) monitor, also known as PnP monitor. It supposed to limited the valid resolution/refresh rate combinations from users to avoid out-of-sync problem, however the user can always override the setting in Advanced mode. My point is two-way communication is not part of the concern here. You can always use your ATI card to display native 1280x720 NI signal to 44NHM84 with or without PnP discovery service, the tricky part is the procedure to do so. ATI/Windows doesnt need to know what monitor it work with, it just feed 720NI to VGA or DVI. If the monitor doesnt support, it just out-of-sync. Win98 or later will auto-resume to previous working mode, while Win95 will force you to boot to safe mode to undo the bad setting. Before PnP age (pre-Windows95), VGA is always "one-way" signal. Ever heard of Nanao, now known as Eizo Nanao? Its CRT based monitor can display beautiful 1280x1024 or higher to satisfy demanding CAD applications prior the PnP age with standard "one-way" DB25 or BNC. Try disable PnP service after OS is loaded; I bet your 44NHM84 will still work. Having said that, that just my bet, hopefully I will have time this weekend to try it out myself. Andy |
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newbuyer Unregistered guest | Hey folks. My 52" Toshiba comes tommorrow night. Can't wait. But here's a little FYI for anybody still on SD. I got free HD and 6 additional channels for six month as part of my TV/stand purchase. When I called up Rogers to set it up, I asked how much it would be when the six months was up. They said it would be another 13 or 14 bucks (can't remember exactly). But she said that if I agree to maintain 2 Rogers services (High speed internet and my cable) for two more years that I could have 15 % off my total bill -- basically that means the HD service is only 75 cents more a month than what I'm paying now for high speed and cable on my current TV. Turns out I don't even need the six months free deal. |
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Annie Unregistered guest | SJ I may be a girl, but I can figure out the buttons on the remote! We configured the video card for clone display, it worked through the S-Video port, but not on either the RGB nor the DVI. We talked to Video only, and they said to bring it back, that the RGB port failed the most on these tv's, 10% possibly. So late last night, my hubby and I treck 1-1/2 hours to Lynnwood to see about a new one. They were all out of this model, but are receiving a new shipment today. My husband, who believes bigger is better, saw the 50 inch Toshiba, and it has HDMI inputs. We spent 20 minutes calculating the dimensions, to find we could do it with 1/4 inch to spare!!! Needless to say, we came home with a huge box! Boy, are we suckers! The color on the 50 inch is WAY YELLOW! and you can't adjust it manually!!! It is also way huge, and it doesn't take pc interface!!! I am so disappointed in the salesman for not knowing that this tv is not to talk to a pc,(it says so in the manual)despite the dual hdmi connectors. So.....I miss the 44! We are taking it back tomorrow, getting the 44 replaced, assuming the RGB/DVI input is just bad and getting a new one will fix our pc input problem, and if it doesn't, I'll be back to ask for more advice! Annie! |
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hopeless Unregistered guest | annie, when you say you purchased a 50 inch toshiba, do you mean the 52" dlp (52hmx84)? the reason why i ask is because i went to video only over the weekend all ready to buy the 44nhm84, but then i saw the 52hmx84 and the picture quality was noticeably better (sharper, cleaner, and more vibrant colors) on the 52hmx84. i believe they were both connected via component video. after seeing the two tvs, i decided to go with the 46hm84, thinking i would get the same PQ as the 52hmx84 but in a smaller package. but it sounds like you're getting the opposite experience! so confusing! |
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SJ Unregistered guest | Annie: No disrespect intended. It took me a few tries to figure it out myself. I hope it works out for you. I'm trying to figure out the best way to configure my 5200 right now. Setting the config for a 720P display seems to turn on overscan. SJ SJ |
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Anonymous | Hopeless There isn't much of a difference in picture quality between any of these dlp's with hd2+. Inherently the 44" or 46" is going to be sharper then the 52" based on the size, after all it's the same chip 1280x720 mirrors on a smaller foot print! The hm84 series toshiba's have documented problems with green push and ghosting with the hdmi connection, this has not been fixed yet. But with a properly calibrated dlp they pretty much look all the same, that is my opinion;) The most importent aspect is the hd2+, the video processor and the quality of the source... the rest is just marketing jargon. Most stores really push the contrast way up to make one tv look better then the other. I do find the hm84 brighter at it's highest settings compared to the 44". Although some may like this, it's not really NTSC standards. |
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Anonymous | Another reason why the hmx84 may have looked better is because it's the cinema series, which has a different anti-glare coating. In the the bright lights of a retail store that might make the difference. |
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hopeless Unregistered guest | anonymous, are you sure the hmx series has a different anti-glare coating on the screen compared to the hm series? i initially posted that question before and people seemed to say there was nothing physically different between the hmx and hm series that would alter the PQ at all, other than perhaps getting a better signal through the internal hd tuner on the hmx. i know the hmx has a acrylic cover around the black bezel, but i didn't think the screen itself was any different. can anyone confirm this? |
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Anonymous | TheaterFine DFP Screen vs the HD Screen, it's on the website... I would not worry about it unless you have a lot of ambient light. |
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44or46 Unregistered guest | I'm sorry if this question has already been answered, but my eyes are glazing over from reading all of these very informative posts: Besides cabinet, input/connection panel, and screen size, is there any real difference between the 44NHM84 and the 46HM84? I'm about to take the plunge on one of them, but I still don't know which one to get. The guy at Video Only claims that they are exactly the same except for DVI vs HDMI. |
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hopeless Unregistered guest | thanks anonymous. i see what you're saying about the toshiba website, but i actually think they both use the TheaterFine DFP screen, although it's confusing. the webpage list the Theaterfine HD Screen for the 46hm84, and Theaterfine DFP for the 46hm94. however, if you look at the .pdf spec sheet, it lists the 46hm84 with the Theaterfine DFP screen, and provides a description of the DFP screen as well. the webpage lists both theaterfine dfp and theaterfine hd for the 52hmx94, and theaterfine DFP for the 52hmx84. very confusing, but i'm hoping that they all just use the same screen, which seems to line up with other things i've read about these sets. |
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Anonymous | It probably is the same screen. Strange that the Toshiba brochure doesn't have it listed on the 46hm84. Regardless, I don't think it makes any difference. It's a very good monitor as well!! I chose the 44" because I preferred the cabinet. But that is a matter of personal preference;) |
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hopeless Unregistered guest | i actually prefer the cabinet on the 44" as well. why they need to incorporate side-speakers is beyond me. it just takes up so much more space, and they're probably pointless for a lot of people (like me) who have a separate audio setup. |
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44or46 Unregistered guest | The biggest selling point on the 44" for me is also the cabinet. I have no desire to hook my computer up to my tv, so that feature is neither here nor there for me. I just want to make sure that I am making the most infomed decision possible before I purchase one over the other. This is a HUGE purchase for me. My main concerns are: 1) picture quality and 2) any main features that one may have over the other (such as 46" having high and low settings for the lamp) Any help is greatly appreciated. |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 37 Registered: Dec-04 | Is the 46" made by LG like the 44"??? That's a big difference I suppose. But like you, this was a HUGE purchase for me too... lots of research went into it, and a lot of changing of the mind. Just go with the 44 ;) Its a beautiful tv and you'll love it. |
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44or46 Unregistered guest | From what I can tell, the 46HM84 does not appear to have any affiliation with LG. But I don't know if that is a big deal or not (at least to me). The 46" seems to have added features like 2 lamp settings & auto aspect ratio (any other features people would like to weigh in on?) In general, I like added features, but the look of the 44" (over the 46") keeps drawing me back in... |
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Anonymous | Jean, I tried to connect a IBM Thinkpad (Radeon Mobility 7500) to 44NHM84. I used PowerStrip to enable the 1280x720p output but the display seems to be enlarged and missing the frame on the TV. I am busy for various projects, and I don't have any experience on HTPC setup so I will leave it for now. Maybe other users can share their experience? below are two useful links. Let me know the steps to make it work if you have any luck. http://entechtaiwan.net/util/ps.shtm Andy |
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Anonymous | Honestly, I don't think anyone can tell you which one is better over the other. See for yourself!! If the 46" was inferior to the 44" I would be the first to say so, but I can't do that. They are very similar in picture quality, judge for yourself which has the best features for your needs. If you are looking for the perfect set you won't find it. They all have their own pros and cons, as stated above in this post. All have some artifacts but for the most part, it's very limited. Don't get suckered by the marketing guru's with gimmick names such as, "Talen" proprietory light engines. They all have light engines, just Toshiba chose to call their's Talen.... Picture perfect, XD engine, doesn't matter!! All made in Taiwan! ;) |
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Anonymous | 44or46. 1) PQ is great on HD, good on SD, you won't disappoint with either one. 2) 44 has PC support, 46 has HDMI but not PC support. 46 has instant restart but I found out it is just another "sleep" mode, so it is less useful but still nice to have. 46 has auto-aspect-ratio-detection. 3) 44 has much better stand. If you have kids, 44 is logical choice. 4) 44 has bottom speaker which is nice for 4:3, 46 will have "double side-bars" due to the side speakers design. 5) 46 has slightly better speaker but who care? You shouldn't rely on the TV built-in speakers anyway. 6) both remote sucks, but LG is slightly better. Steve, the 46 is "designed" by Toshiba. Toshiba is late into the DLP game, so perhaps it has j/v agreement with LG. Who knows? Perhaps the 46 is designed by Tosh with LG help. Andy |
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hopeless Unregistered guest | as others have pointed out, you really need to compare the sets yourself. i personally have a slight preference for the PQ of the 52hmx84 over the 44nhm84 that i saw at my local video only store (thus ordered the 46hm84), but then i've heard other people say they prefer the 44nhm84's PQ. i guess PQ is in the eye of the beholder. |
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newbuyer Unregistered guest | Okay. My TV came tonight. Not much to tell because I don't have cable hooked up and I'm going to get a DVD player tomorrow. In the meantime, I need some help with choosing the specs of the DVD player and various hook-up options. I'm a real novice when it comes to this type of stuff: 1. DVD: is progessive scan a really big deal? (Seems the toshib 52 dosn't allow screen size options for 720p anyway) What's my best option to hook-up. Components? Are Mosters essential or do 50 dollar RCAs do the job too? 2. HDTV: I'm geting HD this weekend. Anyone know what Rogers (cable company) includes (standard AV?). Should I upgrade to componenet for the HD box too. IF I HAD THE CHOICE of using componenets for either DVD or HD reciver, and keeping the other on regular AVs, what's the better bet? 3. HDMI: what is it really? I've heard and read it has issues. Is it better for DVD or HD? Or am I better off justing using components for both DVD and HD and ignoring HDMI? 4. I also have a S video laying around here. I've heard they really don't do much in comparison to regular AVs. Is that true? If not, should I use on DVD or HD box? I know this is a lot, but just wondering if you guys have any advice for the best combination of DVD, HD box and their hook-ups in terms of the above scenerios. Thanks.. |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 38 Registered: Dec-04 | Since you are even considering standard a/v (ie: composite video) then I'd say you don't need to worry about Monster brand cables. Go for the $50, but YES - use component! composite is worst, then s-video, then component. For you, don't worry about hdmi at this point. Use the best cables for HD, because it is higher resolution than DVD. You *might* want to second-think the whole HD thing for now though.. there really isn't any providers in Canada that offer a reasonable amount of content for the money. Keep in mind, that there are only a few channels, and even within those channels, only SOME of the shows are actually broadcast in HD. So you will be watching HD channels on your (expensive) HD cable box but still getting SD television most of the time. in my opinion, its still not worth it yet. The why get an HD TV set? Well - for me, it was only for the DVDs and the hope that HD get's its act in gear sooner than later. So to better answer your Q's. 1. Yes, progressive scan makes a difference. Use components. No, don't bother with Monster 2. Yes component. If you need to make the choice, use component with HD and s-video (or *gasp* composite) with DVD. 3. HDMI is best with HD. From what I gather, not really necessary with DVD. No appreciable difference from component. 4. S-video is better than regular AV (composite) but not as good as component. If you have a cam-corder that doesn't use component, save the s-vid for that. - Steve |
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newbuyer Unregistered guest | Steve, I can always count on you. Thanks. That helps a lot, Just for the sake of asking is HDMI expensive like top brand component? If not, I'll go with that on the HD and $50 component on DVD. I hear you on the HD in canada issue, and lack of content. But sports and superbowl are a must in HD. besides if you red my post from yesterday, you'll see that I'd be getting HD basically free, if I agree to keep two services with rogers for 2 years. i already have that now with cable and high-speed internet |
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Anonymous | Biggest drawback to this TV is that it seems to have a higher propensity to cause the rainbow effect. I had never seen rainbows anywhere until I brought this set home. I can't see them at the stores, and while I briefly had a panny dlp, I couldn't see them on that either. I recently started seeing them on this set, and I've had people look at the set who don't know anything about what rainbows are or about HD in general, and they have seen the rainbows right away. I'm a little bummed to say the least. It's a great set otherwise. |
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Anonymous | Newbuyer and Steve, in simple form, HDMI is DVI with integrated audio. I believe they are pin-compatible, however PC is better supported by DVI. Andy |
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a n d y Unregistered guest | My mistake, they are not pin-compatible but since HDMI is bascially DVI on steroid. There are lossless adapters to use your DVI equipment on HDMI. |
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Anonymous | Andy, I occasionally saw rainbows when I first bought this TV, but I've had it for about 3 months now and I really don't see them anymore, unless I'm really looking for it. Anyone else have similar experiences? The 8 segment color wheel on the panny removes most of the rainbows, so it claims, I guess it's true. Newbuyer, you should check if your cable company supports HDMI or DVI before you get it for your HD cable. I know Rogers in Canada doesn't support it. It's really stupid, but you may have to go component instead. Also, I find satellite providers having better quality HD source. Could be many factors in that, you should do your research. |
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Anonymous | anonymous, I'm glad to hear the rainbows have subsided after a while for you. I'm seeing them pretty often, especially in dark scenes. As I mentioned, I didn't see them on the panasonic, but I only had it a week. I initially didn't see any on this set either, but after a few days they appeared and now I'm afraid they just won't go away. How distracting were they for you? And did they really go away for you or do you think maybe you just got used to them and they are still there but just don't bother you as much? |
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Anonymous | I think it is the latter, I don't think they went away but I'm just not looking for them. Everyone is different, some people more sensitive. Anyway, I know I use to see rainbows in the older hd2 dlp sets but the hd2+ is much improved. There will always be rainbows if you have the single chip and a color wheel. Until the day we see 3 chip dlp sets they will always be there. Here is a thread on the AVS forum about rainbows, hope this helps: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=dc77ed4554a12fb40a6a7e8f5016e89b &threadid=477257&highlight=rainbows |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 39 Registered: Dec-04 | I think perhaps the individual tv makes a difference. You say you see it worse on your set at home - perhaps you got a bum set?? For me it was the opposite. I slightly saw it at the store and determined I would probably get used to it. When my set was setup at home, I couldn't see it even when I tried. I figured it was the lighting difference, but perhaps I got a better-than-average set and you got a worse-than-average one? Just a thought - I don't really know. |
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Anonymous | I've thought about it and asked about it on other forums, but I don't think that's the case. It seems that if there was a problem with the color wheel or something, the whole picture would be messed up. I think the reason I don't see them at stores is because of the lighting. Even in a darkened viewing area at the store, there is still a lot of ambient lighting. I don't know if I should just take it back and give up on DLP and look at the DILA again, or keep it and hope I get used to it. |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 40 Registered: Dec-04 | Well.. at the least you should just keep it for the maximum time you can with your store's return policy. Then make the decision. Lol... sounds pathetic, but... I would not go with DLP if I had more friends ;) I don't have people over hardly ever to watch tv. If I did, I would be concerned because some people see the rainbow effect more than others and I just know there's be that guy that can't get over it and just complains about the tv Unfortunately, as people have pointed out - there isn't currently a "perfect" HD solution. Every technology has its ups and downs. In a year or so we'll probably see triple-chip DLPs or something completely different that blows this tv out of the water. For me, though... I already talked myself out of buying a new tv for the past three boxing days, and I wasn't going to wait any longer... so I went with the one that suited as many of my preferences as possible. This was by far and away the best fit for me. If I were you (and I'm not) I would not settle for this tv if you are bothered by the rainbow effect, but I'd wait as long as possible and see if it still bothers you. Good luck in your quest. |
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Anonymous | "Lol... sounds pathetic, but... I would not go with DLP if I had more friends" lmao....I guess I'm pathetic too then. If I had more friends and had people over more often than I do, I wouldn't consider DLP either. Once in a while I'll have people over, and I'd hate to have anyone complain that they don't like my tv when watching a game or something, but it's not often enough that I'd rule dlp out because of it. that said, I personally am seeing the rainbows all the damn time. I can't really take the set back to the store unless it's a permanent return, and not an exchange (long story...but if I take it back, it's staying back), and I am willing to consider the possibility that there is something with this specific set even if some people don't think it's likely, so maybe I'll call toshiba and see if they can offer any insight. If they claim it's functioning within spec, then it will probably go back. |
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Anonymous | I would agree with Steven on keeping it as long as you possible can.. Brandsmart is going to have you on their "Undesirable customer list!!" But hey, it's their policy, not yours..haha You just can't beat the picture quality of a DLP. Although the Sony Qualia DILA looked pretty good ;). Perhaps JVC makes a product that is much cheaper but comparable. Contrast is much improved in the next generation of DILA, on par with DLP's. It's a promising technology. |
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a n d y Unregistered guest | Anonymous 1126, I doubt the 8 segments wheel will make a big difference. Rainbow effect is a result of the spinning color wheel. The solution is use a 3 chippers but then you _may_ have convergence problem. You can buy HDMI-to-DVI adapter. If you ask HT fans, HDMI is the future and I agree with them. However computer geeks like me will always enjoy the native DVI and VGA D-Sub support of the 44NHM84 even I never use it <g>. As we move to 1080p, we may need the additional bandwidth of HDMI. Oh I really like the PQ of JVC DILA, it is noticably better than the 52HM84 which is almost identical to 44NHM84 in PQ. The only thing I don't like is it price tag. It is 50% more than the 54HM84! |
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murph2 Unregistered guest | SJ and Petro, whats up? This is regarding the problem with the zzzt sound and TV not coming on some times. Did you get your problems fixed/resolved? I'm almost afraid to say it but our set has been good for over 2 weeks, the longest time I think. Just curious about you |
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Anonymous | I believe I am already on their undesirable's customer list...mostly through no fault of my own, but still...sucks to be in that situation. |
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Anonymous | It sucks that you see rainbows!! It's really a good set and at a reasonible price. If it bothers you this much I would wait for the 1080p dlp's. Mind you at the prices of the new dlp's, you could probably get the DILA for cheaper. Could it be anything to do with the settings you changed on the service menu? |
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Anonymous | nope...I was seeing them before I went into the service menu. Also, the only thing I changed in the service menu was cutting back on the red gain. |
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Anonymous | Jean, The Powerstrip program works great, just had to resize the window through the graphic cards. I was playing 720p and 1080p source material from Microsoft Media-HD Content. Don't know what the computer is doing before it feeds into the TV, because I don't think the dvi is suppose to take 1080p source?!?! Don't know! But the picture quality was amazing!! Just glad it works and displays at 1280x720p |
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newbuyer Unregistered guest | One last question before I buy the DVD. I don't have a whole lot of money left. So I was wondering how the picture on a progressive DVD that only does 420i and 420p is with a good set of components. Is a DVD that is capable of 720p and 1080i really that much superior over the middle-of the road progressives DVD with a good set of components? Doesn't the toshib upscale eveything to 720p anyway? Thanks |
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a n d y Unregistered guest | Anonymous 0722, I got Powerstrip sending 1280x720p to the 44NHM84 but all the edges are gone. I lost about 3/4 icon on each side. This is on an IBM Thinkpad with Radeon Mobility 7500 VGA out. Do you know how to fix this? thanks Andy |
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Bronze Member Username: S_mackPost Number: 41 Registered: Dec-04 | Ok, I'm a bit out of my element here... but I'll try to answer your question newbuyer. First off, if I understand correctly you can not have a progressive DVD that does 420i, because i means interlaced and p means progressive - so by definition the progressive scan dvd will be using p. The tv upscales to 720p, but it must be a conversion so its best to have the best signal going in to the tv in the first place. No doubt, a progressive scan DVD will produce a better picture than a standard interlaced one. Someone more knowedgable please step in here |
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Bronze Member Username: JeanmontyPost Number: 32 Registered: Nov-04 | Thanks Anonynous and Andy. Sorry for not answering sooner though but work just burns me out these days. I've ordered the dongle and would have it if only ATI used Canada Post instead of FedEx... Anyway I'll experiment in the weekend and let you know. I believe that Powerstrip work best with the dongle to avoid overscan. We'll see. Thanks again. The articles are grest. Jean |
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Petro Unregistered guest | Hey Murph, I'm happy to say I replaced the set and haven't had any problems for about 2 weeks now (knocking furiously on wood). I was about ready to just return it for my money back as the tech guy kept trying to tell me it was the bulb and I was telling him it wasn't based on what I read here. A sales manager at BestBuy said he had the same problem and it was the belt drive not correctly interfacing with the circuit board. He said to just return it for another and I haven't looked back since!! |
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a n d y Unregistered guest | newbuyer and steve, I don't know much about DVD players, but I think most progressive player will let you do either 480i or 480p (not 420). The 480i is for using the player on non-progressive TV. 480p will give you significant better picture because you get true 480 lines of resolution instead of alterating 240 lines each cycle. If you use 480p player on your 720p TV, Your TV's built-in scaler will upscale the 480p signal to 720p. So the different is really the quality of the scaler, this also explain why some TV can display SD better than the others. If your upscaling DVD player has a better scaler than your TV, you get better result. Ideally, you don't want and upscaling or downscaling, so the best match for standard DVD is EDTV sets. |
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ServiceMenuMike Unregistered guest | help! need some assistance from a brave soul with a bit of time. picked up a 44NHM84 this week and haven't been all that happy with the picture. SD tv looked pretty atrocious, mainly due to what appeared to be an aggressive cut-off to black in shadow areas. this had the effect of giving things like people's hair and under chin shadow areas a pixelated and "impressionistic" look. not good. DVD through component was not nearly as bad but still there. the colour seemed to also go greenish a few pixels before being "cut-off" to black. seemed like either a gamma problem or low luminosity clipping to get deeper blacks. anyway, i was thinking of going back to a store and having a closer look at a toshi on a DVD feed as well as comparing it with other sets. ultimately i would be returning the set for either another toshiba, a different brand, or going back to my Cro-Magnon CRT until dropping close to 3g's wowed me utterly and completely. last night however, i got to kicking around in the service menu. all undocumented stuff of course, but i started figuring things out. first i checked the "load defaults" setting by making a change to a parameter and then returning after the load defaults to see if it returned. it did. then i went hog-wild and was messing with everything to get an idea of how the multitude of parameters changed the picture. some time later, to my shock and horror, it became apparent that the load default command seemed to work on some parameters and not others. at this point the quality of the picture after random flipping of settings was in divorce territory. i wept. well, at 3am, with fingers raw from pressing remote keys, i finally manhandled the plethora of settings back to a reasonable picture, and in the process i may have found a solution to my nasty shadow problem. the trouble is i would like to now take what i have learned and apply it (and only it) to the default setup. if it wasn't for the sadomasochism who programmed the "load default" setting, this would be a simple operation. but as it stands it would seem that i need to manually record the settings off of an untampered unit and manually apply it back to mine. that's where the help comes in. i would be most grateful if someone would put their tv in service mode (preferrably before having altered anything) and either take photos with a digicam or write down the various settings. there are a bunch of areas to go to, some of which have two or three screens (scrolling up or down from the first or last entry scrolls the page). one setting which sets up the RGB shifts for the Warm, Medium, Cool picture setting (a handy tweak!) has listed RGB values change when toggling between colour temperatures. what i am critically interested in are these colour temperature settings (top menu item > top submenu item) and the settings under the ADxxxx (can't remember the nums) at the top menu (5th down or so). if someone whips these into an XL sheet or grabs pictures i can provide an FTP site to upload to and it can be made available to anyone interested. as well, anything i learn i will feedback here. can someone help me out? smm. |
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hopeless Unregistered guest | servicemenumike, sorry to hear about your troubles with your tv. hopefully you can get things back to normal without too much trouble. however, i was under the impression that the service menu settings generally are individually set at the factory for each particular tv, so that there really isn't any "uniform" service menu settings. may be wrong here, though. |
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Bronze Member Username: JeanmontyPost Number: 33 Registered: Nov-04 | Sooooo..... I received the dongle from ATI today and installed it. First thing you want to know : the image is just excellent. The installation can't be easier and the TV itself serves as a monitor if you keep using the RGB input. I used the safe 720p mode to avoid overscan but it uses a 1152x648 resolution that I'd like to avoid. I'll read the articles and see what even better can be obtained. Jean |
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Bronze Member Username: KenmurPost Number: 27 Registered: Nov-04 | Felicitation Jean... Keep us posted on your computer hook-up and system that you are using...way to go... kenmur P.S. I am still fence sitting...can't help reading the bulb, etc. probs that people are having. Anyway I still may pull the trigger.($2499. - Leon's or Brault before the end of Janvier)  |
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a n d y Unregistered guest | Jean, thanks for your info. I tried 1184x666 with Powerstrip and I was able to see the entire PC screen, but there was minor flickers. I switched to 1152x648 after I saw your message and I don't see any flickering. Compare to the Thinkpad, the Thinkpad has better dynamic range than the 44NHM84. I am curious to see how the component dongle compare to VGA-RGB connection. Another thing I don't understand is resolution of 44NHM84. HD2+ native res is 1280x720, so why we have to setup the PC to display at 1152x648 or 1184x666? Is there any downscaling when we do this? Or only 1152x648 pixels are used in the 44NHM84? |
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Anonymous | kenmur, if you don't see rainbows, this is a great set. I see them and am still deciding if they are annoying enough to return it and go with the JVC dila. I had a problem with the first one I got, it was a very faint flickering only noticeable in certain scenes or on a blank screen, but the second one I got is working great so far. Really nice picture. Only problem is the damn rainbows. If you can get it from a local store with a return policy and are seriously considering it, I'd say do it. It's really a good value for an HD2+ based set. |
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newbuyer Unregistered guest | Well, just set my new 52" tosh. All I have right now is DVD, and the first movie I tried was mosters Inc. fantastic, and then it was all downhill from there. Anything that was actually filmed (non cartoon)had a horrible graininess to it. Colours were still fine, however. admitingly, I'm using a cheaper end component cables (RCA -- not a/v, they're RCA brand RGB components $40). HD cable is coming tommorrow. If that's fine, I'll upgrade the components and see if that helps. The DVD is a progessive sony 575. Anybody who knows about grainness: do I upgrade the components, the DVD to 720p or both -- the latter may not be an option for me at this point. Any ideas? |
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a n d y Unregistered guest | newbuyer, What is your viewing distance? I found 8' is great for the 44NHM84. For a 52", you probably need 10'. Don't forget the picture is really coming from the same HD2+ chip and DMD with same resolution. Make sure you setup your Sony 575 to use 480p and not 480i. Try decrease the sharpness to reduce the grain. I don't have any progressive player yet, but the picture from a Panasonic RV31 is okay. I am very interrested to see all settings stay the same, if a high quality component will make a different. Please let's know. |
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Bronze Member Username: JeanmontyPost Number: 34 Registered: Nov-04 | Hey Ken. It is a big decision and with the price going down all the time. I remember finding myself silly since my 10 years old Ultravision was looking so good... but I have no regret : at 50 years old I don't feel like I have to take advantage of what I can NOW ! Jean |
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Bronze Member Username: JeanmontyPost Number: 35 Registered: Nov-04 | Mister Andy... I had that flickering too and I had complete reversal of my setup and I had cold sweat too. No program has ever been better named than 'Powerstrip' because it is a real powertrip and it can lead you to h''l and back. As for dynamic range, I set the TV on 'Daylight' and get something close enough to what my monitors give me, psychologycally at least. 'Dynamic range' can be measured but I found doing photo and 3D modelling that past a certain amount the brain adapts very well. On the last subject (your cover a lot of ground sir ! )) ) I learned that TVs are not monitors and that they all overscan. One part of the reason is that some lines are used to transmit informetion that the TV needs and that is not image. The other part is historical in some manner : TV were so whimsical when it came time to frame the image that it had better to be bigger than necessary so no black border would show. Anyway this is all in good fun. Read ya sir. Jean |
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Bronze Member Username: JeanmontyPost Number: 36 Registered: Nov-04 | About the rainbows : I see them, if I look for them. The fact is that they appear in certain precise circumstances. In my case I notices that I see them only when I am wearing contact lenses *and* when it is time for me to remove them (at the end of a long day, being tired). I never see them when I am wearing my glasses. Something else I noticed is that they are more frequent when the TV shows high B&W contrast like in a scene where only the glaring face of a powerful flashlight is seen in the night. Since I am not a masochist, my body learned to avoid the conditions that bring the rainbows up and I am a happy camper ever since. Jean |
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newbuyer Unregistered guest | andy. When you mean switching to 420p, do you mean by doing something internally on the DVD set-up menu, if one exists? There's a switch on the back of the DVD that switches "progessive" off and on, and it's switched to on. is there something more I have to do? |
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a n d y Unregistered guest | I don't have a progressive player yet, still thinking whether to wait for HD-DVD or a DVD-Recorder... If you have progressive enabled, that should be sufficient. Do you see the same grainny pic on SD TV channels? Are you viewing the TV with at least 8 feet away? Jean, are you a graphic designer? I found the Toshiba has better color than the Thinkpad but dynamic range is not as good, some shadow details are clipped but overall I am very pleased with the 44NHM84. |
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New member Username: LeofPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-05 | 44NHM84. Using RBG port with 1280x768 @ 85 Hz and works great. Colours are amazing. My buddy who was going to get a rp lcd is now considering DLP after seeing it. Anyway to enable PIP SWAP for RGB or component video? e.g. I may want to listen to the TV viewing this message board.. is this a limitation of this tv? p.s. I am completely happy with the TV, and its an excelent gaming screen. |
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Anonymous | Has anyone managed to get a service manual for this thing yet?? |
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Bronze Member Username: SirengalPost Number: 35 Registered: Dec-04 | Isn't anyone using a DVI Cable for their PC? |
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Anonymous | does anyone know it the Toshiba SD 412VC DVD player is capable or progressive scan? I threw out the box and all that important stuff a long time ago. thanks for understanding my incompetence |
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Anonymous | does anyone know it the Toshiba SD 412VC DVD player is capable of progressive scan? I threw out the box and all that important stuff a long time ago. thanks for understanding my incompetence |
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Anonymous | Alright, I just got the 44NHM84, and it should be arriving within the next week. I must say, I'm experiencing a bit of dissonance after shelling out close to 3 grand, when I just got the news that there's a new xHD3 DLP chip that "blows" the HD2+ out of the water; damn. Anyway, such is life, or perhaps just technology. I was wondering if anyone here is from Vancouver and is a subscriber to HDTV. I'm thinking between getting the SHAW 6200 HD box or the BELL 6120. Can anyone comment on the pros/cons of either with respect to service, channel availability, pricing, etc..ideally before Superbowl weekend!! And can anyone recommend a good, moderatly priced but high permorming component video cable to hook up to my DVD player? |
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Anonymous | the xHD3 does not blow the HD2+ out of the water. The xHD3 provides a "virtual" 1080p image, while the HD2+ provides a TRUE 720P image. The contrast ratio is supposed to be higher, but from everything I've read about it, it really doesn't do anything for me. I'd still rather have the HD2+ which most likely is sharper and doesn't use wobulation to scale the image. |
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MartyM Unregistered guest | Hi everyone. I've had the 44NHM84 for a month now and love it. When I first got it and hooked it up to my WideOpenWest (WOW) cable in Michigan, the picture was a little disappointing and gave me a headache if I watched it too long in SD. After I had a HD box from WOW installed a few days later, the picture was AMAZINGLY better (the HD channels being the best) and I never had another headache from watching it after that. The hookup was the 3 plug RGB, not the DMI, but it is still a clear, bright picture and works great. I'd recommend the TV to anyone, but I would also recommend getting the best input source for it or you are wasting your money you just spent on the TV. As far as cable settings, I have the cablebox settings at 720p for the best picture (the 1080i works, but for fast action sports games like football, it was great watching the playoffs in HD!!). I have a couple of earlier posts in late December/early January if you choose to view those (about how much I paid, where, etc.). |
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New member Username: AvsfanPost Number: 2 Registered: Jan-05 | On the advice of Andy, I've opted to post this question here also -- I have a separate thread under "Toshiba 44NHM84 Fan/Color Wheel Noise". Besides what is mentioned below, I also notice the "flickering" that has been brought up, but only on the night display mode. I'm not sure if this may have anything to contribute. I've had this unit for 3 days now and love everything about it apart from excessive fan/color wheel noise. The fan I can live with, but the color wheel (possibly the bulb itself?) is starting to drive me crazy. The sound is very high pitched -- much like a halogen light slightly dimmed. When the volume is up moderately, you don't notice it too much but on quiet passages, it is definitely there. When the unit is first turned on, I hear the fan, then the color wheel rev up and just at the peak, the picture comes on and I hear the high pitch -- my wife really can't hear it unless she's within 1 foot or two but I hear it from 10ft back. Maybe I'm just really sensitive but I swear I'm starting to carry that sound with me even when not watching TV! The Samsung (43" DLP) I returned for this model (nice unit, had the audio synch issues that I couldn't resolve after 3 weeks) was whisper quiet by comparison. Apart from this noise issue, the TV has met almost every criteria I have -- except for this one little (ok big) issue. I would really hate to return this based on such a seemingly simple thing. I'm hoping that this is maybe a minor defect that can be resolved, or that there is something that can be done. I'm looking forward to hearing from other 44NHM84 owners |
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Anonymous | My flicker issue was most noticeable when I had it in night mode also. I exchanged the tv and the new one has very little if any noticeable flicker. In night mode there is a extremely faint flicker, but nothing really too bad. Besides, I never watch it in night mode anyways. I always use custom settings. With my settings there is no flicker, just rainbows. As for the color wheel noise, I answered in your other thread. No noise here. Quiet as a mouse. BTW, I've had 3 people over to see it. All 3 see rainbows. I'm starting to reconsider the possibility that there's something wrong with this specific set. Odd that 3 out of 3 people would see rainbows, when supposedly only a very small percentage can see them. I believe I'll give toshiba a call tomorrow and see what they say. |
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