We bought our Samsung HLP5063W 7/30/04 and it had a high pitched electronic sound even when turned off (like ringing in your ears). We put up with it for a month and then called for service which replaced the light engine That fixed the "DLP HUM" but then the picture was distorted. We didn't find that out until the tech had left and we started changing channels. Anything dark color and close-up looked irridescent green We called for service again and they ordered another light engine. When the tech arrived with the parts he said the light engine was on back order but brought a Ballast and DMD (?) because those parts were supposed to fix the color problem. They did NOT so he took them out and put back the light engine he had removed and re-ordered a light engine. That came yesterday and it did not fix the color problem either. Now after 3 strikes we can get a new TV. We would rather have a different brand but all the other 50" sets are too wide for the cabinet we had made for this set. So we are going to get another 5063 on Friday. If that doesn't work perfectly, we will return it for a different brand and work out the cabinet problem somehow. I wish I had read this forum before I bought the set. I probably would have made a different choice.
KirkC
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I have an HLP4663 that I got in July 2004. After about a month it failed once to come on (the dreaded 3-light syndrome). It has done it a few times since, then tonight it just won't come on. Glad I found these posts. Great picture, but not if it doesn't come on. I got the name of a couple local service companies from the seller, but am I supposed to schedule the service call through Samsung?
disappointed
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Circuit city just brought the replacement tv. It's the hlp5063w. Design is a little different but for now the picture looks good. We will see.
Cory
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I bought the HLN617W 61" DLP the first week of June 2004 from Best Buy for $3699. The picture quality was too impressive to pass up. My policy is to never by the service plans on electronics - they are expensive and I figure that with all of the money I have saved on declining service plans, if something does die, I have saved enough to not feel bad about replacing it. However, on a purchase this big, I didn't want to take a chance, so I also bought the 4 year service plan. By mid July, I was noticing it struggled sometimes to startup and would sometimes fail on the first attempt.
On August 1st, it finally died with the 3 blinking lights of death. It was a Sunday, but I called Samsung anyway, and talked to a customer service representative who gave me a service number and another phone number to call to arrange service. On Monday I called and gave them the TV's information and they told me that a local service company would be in contact with me sometime that day.
Sure enough I received a call that day from the local company. I told them about the blinking lights and that the bulb was defective and needed replacing. They came out Wednesday, and to my disappointment, brought no replacement parts. He just wanted to "verify" that it was really broken. I told them that I had to have the problem fixed in order to watch the Olympics in HD. So, the next Friday (the day of the Olympics opening ceremonies), they came and replaced my bulb. My TV was finally working again!
Three days into the Olympics, it wouldn't turn on again - 3 blinking lights! I called the local service company directly again and they said they didn't know what to do. I called Samsung again and complained some more and they said something about replacing boards, etc. I told them that my local service company was clueless and that it was time for them to step up and replace my TV. They had me call their office in New Jersey - I guess it's where the digital services representatives are, and they finally approved a replacement TV. The nice thing is, they agreed to replace my HLN617W (2nd generation DLP) with the newer HLP6163. They told me to expect a phone call from the delivery company in 14 to 21 days. During this time I could sometimes get my TV to turn on after leaving it unplugged for a few days, or taking out the ballast and messing around with it and replacing it (I should have just left it turned on). I called and bugged Samsung at 2 weeks, but as promised, by the third week they delivered my new TV and took my old one with them.
I have had my HLP6163 for a week now, and so far, no problems. I have noticed that the black leves with this new model look better, and it does run a little quieter.
As soon as you see your TV struggle to turn on, make that phone call to have it serviced because the 3 blinking lights are soon to follow. If this happens to me again, I will have them replace everything at once - the engine, ballast, bulb, etc. And if that doesn't solve it, they can replace my TV over and over with their newest models! Replacing the bulb and ballast alone seems to be a band-aid for the real problem which will eventually arise again. Hopefully Samsung will spend some time to solve and correct this problem!
I have a question. After reading page after page of problems with the Samsung DLP sets, why do people keep buying them? I've read what seems like hundreds of complaints about "3 blinking lights", audio video sync problems, premature bulb failure and many other issues. Does anyone has anything good to say about these sets? From what I have read so far I wouldn't touch a Sammy. Any positive feedback on them?
Bob Janoske
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Sure, now that my blinking lights problem has been fixed, the performance is great. In addition to sharp, accurate color picture (using DVI cable), it has a good selection of video and audio input/output connections. I am extremely satisfied now that it has been repaired.
dloy
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Yeah once it's repaired it's great. No burn in with DLP no degrading of guns etc. It will last forever as long as you change the bulb every year and a half or so. In HD it's fantastic. It's worth the hassle to get the fix cause then you're in tv heaven.
Vineet B
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Responding to Mr. Lynch: I bought the HLP5063W a couple of weeks ago, and, so far, for the most part, it's terrific - great picture, even on SD broadcasts - a nice surprise. HD is simply awesome - TV heaven indeed! Very satisfied with movie DVDs as well. Hope I never experience the dreaded "Three blinking lights" problem - however, I have experienced the audio-video sync problem a few times - particularly on some BBC World newscasts (I live in Toronto, and have an HD box from our cable provider - could it be due to the box?); also noticed the problem a few nights ago on a PBS HD program, with a slight lag in video. So far, it's not a major concern, however, if it gets worse I'd contact Samsung CS. Would appreciate it if anybody could comment on whether the cable box (Scientific Atlanta 3100) may play a role in audio-video sync problems
disappointed
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Question to Vineet B...Does the tv stay in standby all the time while it's plugged in or will it eventually go off? I am having trouble turning it on and off with my cable remote. It's not that it won't work but it will only do it one device at a time instead of "all" like the previous tv. This is very different from the HLN model. I'm not completely convinced on the color/picture yet either.
Vineet B
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So far, I'm still using both remotes (TV and cable); tried to calibrate the cable remote to turn both cable and TV off, but no luck the first time - will try again and let you know if it works. The TV seems to stay in standby all the time - the screen goes off (power is off, and after about a minute and a half - two minutes, if I hang around, I hear a low clunk - this is the fan going off). I've assumed that "standby" basically means "off" - and that the electronic beeps signal power on and off. Hope that helps
disappointed
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Thanks that does clear up that question!
Anonymous
Posted on
Hey Vineet B:
I have the Sammy HLP4663W, also live in the GTA with the Scientific Atlanta 3100 via Rogers. I had BRUTAL audio synch issues on the weekend, but now (September 28th, anyways) it seems to be fine. I'm wondering if it's Rogers up to their old tricks??
I do notice a slight video lag still with DVD & Satellite, but only if you make a point of focussing in on it. I switched from digital optical to coax on the 3100 and found less lag; could have been a coincidence.
Vineet B
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Hey Anonymous,
You make a couple of interesting points - re: audio-video sync, I agree with your statement "if you make a point of focussing on it" - because the problem is infrequent, it doesn't bother me as much it does my wife. Also, re: digital optical vs coax - most interesting - I connected the cable box with component video inputs supplied by Rogers - as you know, non-HD broadcasts default to a 4 X 3 picture - I only get HD programs and movies on DVD in the full 16 x 9, and I cannot adjust the picture size on cable(Rogers told me that if I wanted that option, I should connect the coax between the box and the TV, which I did, but it still doesn't let me choose picture size) Again, this doesn't bother me too much, since I'd much rather see a non-distorted picture in 4 X 3 rather than the "stretch version" on full screen - but, there are times when I would like a full screen - particularly when it's scenery (and the distortion isn't as noticeable as with human beings). So, perhaps you're right - maybe Rogers is upto their old tricks. Perhaps it's worth looking into Bell Express Vu as an alternative(?)
I am posting for the first time. I just purchased the HLP4663w on Friday. Sunday night I received the dreaded 3 light syndrome.
They have since replaced the bulb (Wednesday), and I am back up and running (so far anyway.
I'm just posting to add my name to the growing list. Time will tell how things turn out. I will update my status if/when it changes.
Jzach
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What is the preferred solution (per Samsung) for the light not starting up. Is it change the bulb and ballast (and hope) or replace the entire light engine (from Toshiba to Phillips)?
The repair people arrive next Friday.
ps I have Dish and occasional minor sync problems. When they are annoying I switch to optical output to home theatre, problem gone. I am connected to the DVI input.
disappointed
Unregistered guest
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I am still not sure after reading these posts, what the 3 light syndrome is exactly. What should I be looking for? Will the tv not come on at all???
The 3 light syndrome is, when you turn thr TV on you will get audio, but will get absolutely no picture. That is the screen will be entirely black. The three lights reference is the on/off button on the TV, has several lighted words on it, when your bulb goes these words are illuminted (3 of them) on the on/off switch.
Anonymous
Posted on
After a lot of research (hadn't seen any of these posts, though) I ended up buying a HLP4663. I've had it for a month and I'm really happy with it - mostly. The picture at times is awesome but I have noticed some occassional video problems. It's most noticeable on faces in darker lit scenes. It seems like reflections don't actually stay on the face but follow it around like it isn't syncing right. Have any of you noticed this? Also, I am connecting the set via a cable box ('digital' no HD). The manual says I should be able to connect the cable directly to the first antenna input and the loop the cable box on the 2nd and 3rd cable inputs/outputs. The picture looks like garbage when flipping over to cable, though. Anyone get this set up to work? Thx.
Anonymous
Posted on
Analog cable is crap, for sure. Get an HD box and pay the little extra for the HD service - it doubles as digital cable. It'll blow your socks off.
For me and my HLP4663, HD is the best (component out) followed by DVD (DVI) then satellite (s-video). I don't even try watching analog cable, let alone thru a digital box. Big steps backwards.
Kylez
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All of a sudden Samsung hits our markets big and sells us a bunch of crap. The worst written manuals I have ever seen and units that must have never been tested, (Except on us Americans)!
5085W using satelite via DVI thru samsung 360 reciever (set to output @ 720). Sync problems only seem to happen during "live" broadcasts (presidential debate (in sd), monday night football (in SD). Got HD football package, games look awesome in HD (no sync issues during HD game), but almost without fail sync issues will appear during commercials.
Thought it may have been the HLP5085, had BB deliver another set today and exchange, same problems with new TV. Anyone know what the heck is goin on????
If it is the 5085, seems to be general desig issue. Same sync problem using component conect. Does not seem to be source problem, as no sync issues with tube TV. WTF - Frustrated and confused, any ideas what is going on? Could it be the 360 HD receiver?
Eric R.
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It's been a few weeks since I last posted (see posts -Sept. 1,3,4,10,12,16). I have a couple of comments.
[1] I had the bulb replaced last month b/c of the "3 lights of death" problem (I'm the originator of this phrase ). The repair guy brought a ballast, but didn't replace it, only the lamp.
Yesterday, I had problems starting it up. However I unplugged it for 20 minutes, and it eventually worked fine. That stated, I don't know now if I'm on limited time before it happens again or totally goes... I don't know if I should pre-emptively call Samsung to initiate ANOTHER service request. It seems that most of the earlier posters on this forum had re-occuring problems, whether on repaired TVs or those with entirely new (replaced) ones. I'm pretty damn fed up with Samsung b/c there's just too many people who are having issues with this TV. It is way too inconvenient to have to get the TV fixed every 3 weeks.
[2] On a good note, I got my HD installed over the weekend with DirecTV. It is absoluetly incredible and I urge anyone who is contemplating it to get it. In fact, what did you buy this expensive TV for if not for HD? - because regular TV looks plain awful on the DLPs.
I originally said I didn't care as much about HD. But now that I see what it is like to sit and watch it, I'd say it is worth the money and then some. Especially if you have NFL Sunday Ticket...
Good luck everyone.
Lovin My DLP
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I have the 5085 as well and on occasion have noticed the Sync issues. It's never happened while watching HD only SD. I've spoken to several techs regarding this and have made some minor adjustments which have really made an improvement. Because of the great amount of video processing and the lack of audio processing, there are going to be sync issues with some SD broadcasts. Try turning the DNIe off to lessen the amount of video processing and turn on the BBE. This has made a great improvement and the picture quality is still amazing with DNIe turned off.
Jimbo in Dallas
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I have a new Sammy HL-P4663W and you guys are scaring the hell outta me. ;-) I'm glad I got the 4-year warranty with Lemon protection.
So far, no problems here. I have noticed lag time differential between this TV and the TV in the kitchen, but no synch differential between audio and video.
I get great viewing results with the new Toshiba SD-5970 DVD player and HDMI connection cable. I am less satisfied with Comcast Motorola HD STB connection. I'm not sure everything is set right -- still working that issue.
Lovin My DLP
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What Motorola Box are you using?
Jimbo in Dallas
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Dear Lovin', I have the Motorola DCT-5100/1005. It is installed with both a Coax to "antenna in" and Component YBR/audio cables to "Component2 in" on the TV. I'm wondering why both. Also, when I view input source on the TV, it shows "Antenna" instead of "Component2." When I try and select Component2, I get what looks like the same picture but lose functionality of my remote and have no sound. But I'm a newbie, feeling my way around. I just found a copy of the Motorola DCT 5100 Users Guide online. I'll have to read through that.
I bought an HL-P5063w from Best Buy in early July and LOVE the picture. Room is very bright and the picture holds up well even in nearly direct sunlight. The DVI input sealed the deal vs the HL-N which has none.
Unfortunately the bulb went out after 6 weeks (after having the 3 red lights of death) 2 days before the start of the Olympics. I was furious.
The tech came, diagnosed the problem, and said under Samsung recommendations they never bother replacing the bulb, they just replace the whole "light engine" ($1400 assembly) when its still under factory warranty (e.g., when it blows out prematurely). You might want to note this if your lamp goes out early (its supposed to last 8000 hours or so). He ordered the part but it has to come from Korea, takes 3 weeks. I was even more furious.
However the manager at the local BestBuy was very understanding and did a no-charge exchange (even delivered new one free next day from the store). Apparently they do a free exchange if product was purchased <30days ago, they extended to 6 weeks for me - reason enough to have coughed up for extended warranty.
New one is running fine so far (fingers crossed), and the $600 in in-store "rebate" credit for the purchase has rounded out my content collection nicely. And no, I don't work for BestBuy, just a happy customer.
Not sure why they're using the coax and the comp2. sometimes main menu is not immediately accessible through components and so they use coax for set up but I don't think that's the case with the motorola. above link is some additonal setup options for your box. is it the samsung remote that becomes inoperable or the motorola? And are the audio cables going directly to component 2 or to a reciever first?
Jimbo in Dallas
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Thanks for the link! You may have a point. I wonder if the coax is just to get the channel 3 for setup. Once everything is set up, maybe it's not doing anything.
FYI, the audio is going directly to Component2 for now. And it is the Comcast/Motorola Remote that finks out when I select Component2. But I'm at work now and haven't had a chance to recheck anything based on the info I've gotten today.
Thanks again.
dloy
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Posted on
IMPORTANT: Maybe I can clear up some things for you folks. 1) Make sure you are setting the Motorola boxes (i.e.Comcast etc.)to 1080i and let the Samsung do the processing down to 720p because it has the superior processing chip compared to the Motorola or most boxes. 2) You cannot get the wide, zoom 1 or zoom 2 when you are using the component or DVI input. Here's what you do: split the cable incoming from the wall and run one to antenna. Watch all your regular channels (2-73 or whatever) on antenna 1. They will be analog but you will get a better picture and you can use the above mentioned wide and zooms etc. Connect the other cable to the Digital/HD box and use component or DVI. ( if you have a Tivo or Replay TV split it 3 ways and use one for the Tivo, that way you can watch one channel while recording another. NOW if your signal is weak like mine was, buy the Motorola Signal booster I mentioned in a previous post. It did wonders. 3)You must have the ENTIRE LIGHT ENGINE replaced or it will go bad eventually. Mine was done 4 weeks ago and it now works just like any other TV and turns on with no hesitation or difficulty. Of course it isn't "instant on" (takes about 20 seconds) but no problem at all. 4) Make sure your internal audio is on OFF so the receiver can do the syncing. 5) No offense, but you should really read the owners manual it's well worth it. Hopes this helps.
Jimbo in Dallas
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Thanks dloy. Your points are well taken and very helpful. Comcast doesn't leave a manual with the Motorola STB, but I found one online, yet it doesn't give the info you do, so thanks again.
I successfully got everything reset and working last night, even got my Harmony Universal Remote to control everything correctly. Great High Def picture from Comcast HD Channels, and great High Def picture from Toshiba SD5970 DVD Player (HDMI).
I watched NCIS last night before the debates: Full screen 16:9, awesome PQ. I just sat there smiling thru the whole show!!
Doug
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All, I also just started having the "3 lights" problem. I am having a guy come out soon, and thanks for these posts will now make sure he brings a new light engine.
I am also having a problem that no one has been mentioning. At times (it does not occur with any discernible regularity) I hear a very high pitched noise (Like the beeps they play for you when you get an ear exam from the doctor.) Has anyone else experienced this? I notice that it seems to happen more often during the instant when channels are changing, but it also happens while watching a particular show (which is very annoying) Thanks.
Love the picture and price but am going to go insane if that DLP keeps making all that dam noise. WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE. Is all I can here waiting for Best Buy Tech to come and look. Any one have an easy fix for this?
A lot of the comcast Motorola 5100 STB (maybe all?) do not have the DVI out enabled. I get nothing out of mine here in Seattle. I wish I knew why this was.
disappointed
Unregistered guest
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DerekR...That noise is the color wheel. We had the HLN model and it only gets louder. The first tech said basically "live with it". We couldn't take it and after I blew a gasket with C.C., they replaced the whole tv. The HLP model is totally silent. You wouldn't believe the difference. Don't let whoever you bought the tv from make you think that is just the way it is. Samsung even acknowledged it was abnormal.
Mr Lynch: I drilled Comcast on this point before ordering the service, and they said absolutely its enabled. I recall the tech had to turn it on when he came. There is a bizarre process you need to get into the main setup menu to turn it on. From the Motorola manual (thanks LovinMyDLP!):
To access the On Screen Menu, power ON your HDTV and power OFF the DCT5100. Press the MENU button on either your remote control or the DCT5100 front panel to call up the On Screen Display.* You may use either the DCT5100 front panel or the remote control to navigate the display: The arrow on the left indicates the position of the cursor. Press the and buttons to select the setting you wish to change. Press the button to select an option for that setting. To exit the setting and move to another setting, use the and buttons. Press the POWER or MENU button to exit the menu and save your settings.
dloy
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Tom is correct about the menu thing and that's how to make sure you're running 1080i also. I run my comcast box from dvi to dvi on my HLP but I can't really see much difference in PQ between that and the component hookups.
Lovin My DLP
Unregistered guest
Posted on
Glad you're up and running Jimbo! Enjoy the hell out of it.
Derek - Disappointed was right on the color wheel. While the HLP is quieter than the HLN (42db vs 68db) you still shouldn't hear that "whining sound" BB should replace the CW.. or you should convince them to give you the hlp instead!
It is good to hear that the DVI out is working for you. I'll have to give them a call and find out the story around here. When the tech installed it he said that Comcast didn't support the DVI, so it wouldn't work until futher notice. It has been 6 weeks, mayybe things changed. Atleast I have some hope now
disappointed
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I am wondering if anybody else has compared the HLN model to the HLP? The clarity on the HLN was astounding. Now we have the HLP and I see slight distortion and it seems grainy. HD is very clear but I definetely see a difference. I am afraid C.C. will think I'm really being picky. Anybody know how to cure this?
I am so glad we are not the only ones with the 3 lights of death! we actually got our HLN 5065W replaced with a HLP5063 this past weekend. It took 20 phones call to Samsung and a nasty letter to Corporate Headquarters at Best Buy to get this thing replaced. I sure hope with the new set we don't encounter the 3 blinking lights again. My next step will be at a lawyer's office!
Does anyone know the difference between the HLN5065W and the HLP 5063?
Mesquite
Unregistered guest
Posted on
To all,
I just want to say ***THANKS*** to everyone who has posted on this forum. I have the P5063W with the same "3 lights of death" and sound sync issues. I purchased in Aug. 04 from a NY warehouse for a very fair price. Because of great folks like yourselves, I have contacted 1-800-SAMSUNG for a replacement light engine. I will use an "Uninterupted Power Supply" (UPS) through a Monster surge protector. My standard Direct TV signal looks fine, DVD's even better, but I want my socks knocked of too, so, HD here I come! I'll most likely go with Sammy's 360 for DVI, off-air HD, and a great price since Hughes has forced everyone to drop their price and Hughes won't be allowing Direct TV to be available on any other HD receiver except theirs in the future. Once again, a big THANK YOU to all you fine folks out there! Happy viewing! P.S. Dear disappointed, go to Menu, Picture, then turn off DNLE.
Mesquite
Unregistered guest
Posted on
To RFritz,
Check the Sept. 27th posting. Those things were corrected. Hopefully, you have the updated light engine. Enjoy!
Vineet B
Unregistered guest
Posted on
Re: cable remote (getting back on a question asked by "Disappointed") - I finally did manage to get my cable (HD box) remote to power on/off both the box and my Sammy HLP5063W. So far, I love the TV, and other than some sporadic incidents of the audio-video sync being "off", everything's OK. No 3 blinking lights problem so far - I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
GeorgeSF
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Posted on
You have all been so helpful that I believe we owe you what I trust is the rest and last of our story. After being told that the engine was on back order and an eternity on "hold," we got Sammy to agree to a swap; however, before that happened the tech showed up and we followed the advice: better a hand-rebuilt and tested engine than a whole new, off the line set that may go the way of the original. So far, all is well. The HD picture is excellent [water looks so wet, we keep a mop handy], no synch issues, fan's so quiet you practically need a stethoscope to be sure it's "on," and we had our kids set up the DVI, etc. The dusty DLP chip was replaced. No more complaints, but one remaining curiousity: every once in awhile, the set comes on with two identical pictures side by side. If we change the channel, it's fixed on the next channel and on the first. Anyone have an explanation of this apparently harmless phenomenon?
Mesquite
Unregistered guest
Posted on
GeorgeSF: Sounds like it's inadvertantly triggering the Picture in Picture (PIP). I looked in my Menu-Picture-PIP and found it to be off. See if your's is off. If it is, then turn it on, exit the menu, go back to it and turn it off. It might reset the software of this feature. I was using PIP to check my outdoor security cameras, but I found it easier to just switch the video feed and see each camera's full view. Good luck!
Mesquite
Unregistered guest
Posted on
Update: I purchased the Samsung SIRTS360 and lost my socks. HD is unbelievable! I had to reset my color settings for DVI, but the picture is truly amazing on my P5063W. DVI mode won't let me adjust the tint (greyed out), but I went to Menu-Setup-Color Weakness and and adjusted the red a little and it's just fantastic. I'm in HD heaven. This receiver combines signal inputs to the guide. (No switching between signal sources for off-air HD and Sat.) It's just another channel. Cool!
I finally got through to Samsung's DTV department and they set up a warranty service call. They are now saying that the Toshiba lamp is incompatable with other components of the light engine. The fix, they say, is to replace it with a Phillips lamp. The repairman is coming this morning to swap it out. He says he has swapped several with no call-backs. I'll run it a while and re-post. In the interim, I've been getting past the three lights syndrom by tapping the lamp housing area during start-up. It's always worked for me. I was also informed by Samsung that the price of the lamps will be dropping drastically in the near future. (less than $100) DLP owners will be able to pick one up locally at CC or BB or other places and swap it themselves. This info didn't bring on any regrets about the 5 year extended warranty I purchased for $300, which includes one free lamp. I'm a big believer in piece of mind when it comes to new technology. I got burned on a 2 year old Sony picture tube. I got 15 years out of my Mitsubishi tube, so I didn't buy the extended warranty on the Sony. The repairman said that they don't make (CRT's) tubes like they used to. I think DLP is a superior technology. I'm willing to work through the kinks. I just wish my remote volume would control the audio outputs. (It seems to only control the internal speakers, which I have muted.) Any thoughts besides buying an audio amp with remote volume?
Last nigth I got the 3 ligths of dead. The set had been acting up for a month or so, but always was able to restart until last nigth. I am going today with Ultimate Electronics. I was very happy with this TV HLP5063W. I had the impression Samsung was really leading the other brands with this technology. Has Samsung officially recognize this problem and issue a PIP (Product Improvement Program)?
Jzach
Unregistered guest
Posted on
Just had the service chap out for my 5063 and he only replaced the bulb with a "Phillips". He says this will/has for others solved the problem. For the past few weeks since I have had no problems and what also seems to be a cleaner/brighter picture. With a four year warranty I am game to see if this solution works.
Mesquite
Unregistered guest
Posted on
Hi August: Just slap that lamp housing during start-up and it will fire off for you. Call 1-800-Samsung for a reference number and another 1-800 number to their DTV department. They will contact your local service shop to swap out the lamp. It's better to take the repair path than to exchange for another set with the wrong lamp. Mine was swapped this morning. I'll post again after more start-ups. The set is cutting edge technology with an unmatched HD picture, no burn-in, no LCD or Plasma breakdown, and the 8000 hour lamps will be less expensive soon. In my opinion, it's well worth working through the kinks. My Phillips lamp is very bright and clear!
GeorgeSF, I get the double picture too sometimes when I 1st turn on our HLP4663, which is connected via DVI to a Comcast HD box. It goes away as soon as you channel up or down then back.
I think that it might tend to happen more when there's certain shapes, e.g. the shapes around the ESPN commentators on ESPH-HD.
When I change the box to 720p from the default of 1180i, then the two boxes fill the height of the screen instead of just the upper half.
But we like the TV set (especially me). Ours was assembled in Aug 04 so maybe we have new stuff inside. The fan is just a soft sound when the set is 1st turned on. Whether our bulb is as bright as these Phillips ones or whether we have a Phillips one I don't know as I have nothing to compare the set to except our ole reliable 1994 Proscan.
I am looking to buy HLP5063, but willing to wait till Samsung fixes the problems people have discussed in this forum, minimally the "3 blinking lights" issue. Does anybody know the official story from Samsung? If I buy a set manufactured in Aug-04, will I be safe from the above well known problems. I was not looking to purchase the extended protection plan.
Anonymous
Posted on
Folks,
This is a great forum. I wish I had read all these postings on the HLP a week ago. Just last week, I came across a fantastic deal on amazon.com for the HLP5085 (the TV with the pedestal stand) for $3049. The deal lasted less than a minute and I orderded the TV. The TV is yet to be delivered. Now I have read all the postings here (especially the 3 lights of death) I am just tremendously worried. Amazon does NOT accept returns on TVs larger than 27" or sells extended warranties. Amazon is one of the designated sellers for Samsung products. The question is I have not heard any postings/complaints on the HLP5085. What does this mean--(a) no one is buying the HLP5085? or (b) No problems with HLP5085?
Should I assume no news is good news? Please let me know soon. Thanks.
Mesquite
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I like DLP...you will too! You have a 1 year factory warranty. Why worry? I haven't seen a negative thread on the P5085. My p5063W starts up first time everytime now. Sound sync issues are very infrequent. I'll post again after more start-ups and run time.
Anon Amous
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This is one of the hottest selling TVs on the market right now! They have had a huge boost in sales for this set (Especially in Europe) because of advertising during the Olympics, it's unique design and stunning PQ. YOU MADE AN AWESOME CHOICE! No doubt Samsung has had quite a few problems with their sets over the years. They have made huge strides with each generation and have almost perfected this 85 series. The only quirk I see is that you bought it from Amazon with those conditions! It doesn't matter what name brand you bought. They put the carrot in front of you, making you beleive they gave you a "DEAL" and altimately they have control, NOT you. Even worse than bad service, is not having one at all!
The good news is that the P5085 uses the gen 2+ DLP chip, while the rest of the "P" line uses the gen 3 chip. The gen 2+ chip has better contrast and is based on an older, more established (and more expensive) design. The bad news is that the TV is even newer than the rest of the "P" line, so light engine (or some other) problems could still be an issue.
However, I also have not seen bad thread on this TV, but maybe its too new or im not looking hard enough. Regardless, follow the advice of folks on this forum and keep it on constant power, and just enjoy your new toy! At least Samsung will support you...
Thanks for your feedback about the HLP5085 purchase from amazon.com. I am not concerned about the contrast and the latest technology. I am more worried about the QUALITY of the TV itself. I have written to amazon.com and have pointed to them on user feedback on this forum. Let me see how they respond. This is a good litmus test for them. Like the way CC or BB stands behind what they sell, I hope amazon.com stands behind what they sell too. I have purchased other items through amazon and they have always been good. I am even willing to cancel my purchase (if at all that's possible) if they do not support the items that they sell.
I am still waiting to see some threads on the HLP5085 if people have owned them for a while. I would rather mentally prepare myself for the bad news now.
Thanks once again.
Anonymous
Posted on
I just recieved my HLP5085 yesterday. After about 2 1/2 hours the screen went blank. Turned it off, waited and turned it back on. Worked fine for about 1 1/2 hours. Each time I turned it off then back on it took less time to go blank. Even turning off and unplugging just made it last a little longer, 2 hours, then blank again. Sounds like the same problem. It feels like it is overheating and I don't hear a fan. Have a service call into Samsung (800 number) and will post with results.
Dr.Gee
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ARe you allowed to post urls on this site. I would like to find some good websites for replacemnt bulbs
Mesquite
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Dr. Gee:
Samsung informed me that the price of DLP lamps will soon be less than half of what they are today. I'll wait a while.
Well...darn...I've seen my first negative thread on the 5085. Sure does seem like the fan won't power up.
HLP5085 owners: I highly recommend you start a new thread on this one to 1. to get the comments in one place for you and future owners and 2. to limit this already enormous thread on the HLP5065's
Matt Man
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Moral of the story... Don't buy Samsung DLP's.
Doug
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I have an HLP 4663. How do you utilize the HDMI input. It is all by itself on the back of the unit with no audio inputs nearby. How can take advantage of the HDMI input to get both picture and sound?
johnnytv2004
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Doug, right now all you can use it for is with an upconverting DVD player. Next gen cable boxes and Sat STB's will have this connection. There are cables that convert DVI to HDMI but you'd only get sound out of a surround sound receiver. I use HDMI with the toshiba SD-5970 DVD player... Van Helsing was amazing.... The toshiba is really an amazing machine.
johnnytv2004
Unregistered guest
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I almost forgot to post my HLP5063W issue... Mine lasted 8 weeks before the fan got loud and the color wheel started to skreech.... A tech is coming this Friday to replace it all.. I never had a problem with the lamp not firing but I think he said he's replacing it all... I cant be there for the repair hopefully the wife can tell me exactly what he does.
i just got my samsung 50" dlp tv and it is great except that there is about a half second delay in video game response time. im using a ps2 with games like tony hawk, madden 04', soul caliber and GTA. the delay affects all games. what can i do, is this normal?
It is a a very common problem with Samsungs. Try upgrading to Component cable when using your PS2, that might fix the problem. The problem is due to the slow response of the scaling chip that Sammy uses. It converts all signals to 1280x720 to fit the screen and the lower the signal (esp. 480i) the longer it takes to convert it. It is the same thing that causes the a/v sync issues when using a receiver.
thx for the info, im going to get component cables for the ps2 today but what can i do if that doesnt work? i called samsung and they have never heard of the problem and are sending out a service tech on monday, should i just wait and see what they say? im not having any other problems and after reading this site im scared that if i do anything to the tv i will.
Try the cables and hopefully they fix the problem. There are a few other posts about the same issue your having. They all pretty much say it is cables. What model TV do you have?
its the hlp5063w i just bought the cables and will try after work tonight. the guy at circuit city said cables wont help but i have the feeling he doesn't really know what hes talking about. im keeping my fingers crossed. is there a setting on the tv that i can turn off so it doesnt convert the signal?
There is no way to "turn off" the coversion. All the fixed pixel displays do it (LCD, LCoS, DLP). If it didn't you would end up with a really distorted pictures. I really don't trust the "kids" that work at the big box stores (BB, CC, and such) I'm pretty sure he has no expirience with the problem your having. I know there are quite a few other posts on this issue, you might be able to find a few more answers.
BrokenDLP
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I have a Samsung HLP4663W that was made in July 2004. I have only owned it for a couple of weeks and I am having problems with it already. I am not having the problem with the 3 blinking lights but I am having a problem with the picture. At the top of the screen there is a series of blue lines. The lines are in groups of 8 and they are spaced out evenly accross the top of the screen. They are most noticable when the screen is dark. When the screen has colour on it, the lines change to blue and green dots. I don't think it is a cable issue since the lines are there if all the cables are unplugged and the I just have the tv turned on. I tried to attach a picture for everyone to see but it was too large to upload. If you would like to see a picture reply with a post with your email address and will send you a picture. Does anyone know what this could be or has anyone seen this problem before? Ant input would be great. Thanks.
I bought the HLP4663W a few days ago, and expected my analog input to look like crap, but it actually looks VERY good; totally shocked me! Monster Cable mini-coaxials made it look worse, so I threw my cheap RCA's back on, and it looks far better (I've go the old standard Comcast cable box (not digital or anything). Much better quality than VHS, in case you're wondering... Very tolerable.
This thread is beginning to concern me, as my research on this product seemed to indicate it was the good choice. I never stumbled onto this site... I'm planning to spend the next few months purchasing the same HLP at BB, going straight to the Returns line and returning the unopened tv with the older receipt. Doing this will give me a fresh 30-day clock until I'm convinced the product is worth keeping. Also allows me to grab the service plan within 14 days of purchase if I feel I'm going to hold on to it.
BB does piss me off. I bought a DVD player for $299 at one store, and three weeks later I saw the same player at another BB for $50 less. I brought in my receipt and asked for a $50 refund, and they say they couldn't do it because it was past the time for "lowest price refunds" or something like that. Okay...be like that. So...I just bought one there, took it straight to Returns and used my old receipt and got my $50 back. What a stupid policy they have! Anyway, it was at this point I realized that BB does not include product serial numbers on their receipts, which allows the buyer to return the same brand/model with any receipt. It's the only justice we buyers have with all these poorly made electronics out there. Quality Control doesn't seem to exist anymore...
Strati
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Posted on
Hey Mini Me, It amazes me! You are trashing legitimate businesses, along with their "more than fair" policies, and are boasting about you being a crook! What goes around, comes around my friend! Do us all a favor, and don't bother posting on this site. Why would anyone take advise from a scammer? If you're looking for people to stroke your ego, this is the wrong place!
Lightheart
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Posted on
I don't believe the poster (Mini Me) is doing anything illegal. He/she is merely utilizing the policies set forth by Best Buy to work to his advantage. Why is he/she a scammer for taking advantage of Best Buy's "no hassle" return policy?
If you can find a loophole, I say use it.
Ducky
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Way to go Mini Me! I wish I had thought of that! I bought a tv from BestBuy some years ago and it was nearly $80 cheaper a few weeks later at the same store. They wouldn't give me the price difference because it was after 15 days or something, but I still had a week left to return it!!! Dang!!! I wish I would've used my brain more and did that.
I don't see what the poster did that was so wrong. BestBuy should at least give a price guarantee until the period of returning the product expires. Only makes sense!!!
johnnytv2004
Unregistered guest
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I had my Sammy HLP5063W fixed on Friday. I had the noisy fan and whistling color wheel issue... The service guy replaced the whole engine he called it. It was a pretty big part he replaced, so far it is very quiet.. Even more quiet then when I first go it. The picture and colors are way more accurate... Those who have extended service plans or current MFR warranties, I say call and have it serviced it you dont think the TV is up to speed....
I bought my Samsung DLP 467W Tantus in October 2003. It worked perfectly for 10 months. Then, a buzzing sound began which I assumed was the colour wheel. Finally, in October 2004, the TV wouldn't turn on, and the 3 light began blinking on the front. Turning the TV on and off for various lengths of time did no good. So the service guy came in today and replaced the bulb, ballast, and the colour wheel.
It's working great so far!
The TV was still under it's 2 year warranty, but I bought the extended warranty in October 2004 just in case this happens again.
KevDog
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HappyinHamilton, how were you able to buy an extended warranty one year after the purchase? Did you buy it directly through Samsung or through the original retailer? Thanks. Glad to hear that it's back up and running.
Anonymous
Posted on
I've got a 50" Samsung DLP, and I'm having a more and more frequent problem when running my DVD player or PS2. Specifcally, I get this green tint to the screen that makes the people in the DVDs look seasick. On the PS2, nearly every color turns green except the reds. Both my DVD and PS2 are connected to my receiver with component cables, and I've made sure that my connections are tight. I don't have this problem when watching regular TV, HDTV, or VHS tapes. And it doesn't happen every time I watch a DVD. It does, however, happen every time I use the PS2. If I unplug the "out" cable from the PS2, and then wiggle it back into the console, the problem goes away for a few minutes, but then it inevitably returns. What could be causing this and how do I fix it? Thanks in advance for your help.
RyanS
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I just bought the Samsung HLP4663W and am having two different issues. I am getting a buzzing sound coming out of the set even when turned off. I am also seeing on the wide screen (top bar) a wave in the middle, not straight across like the bottom bar. I have read about both of these things in this forum but not really seeing that they can be fixed, anybody had this problem and is it fixable. The buzzing is really annoying and the top bar thing just bothers me because I don't think it should be like that.
johnnytv2004
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Posted on
Anonymous Did you try bypassing the receiver ? Maybe that's the issue. Just a thought
mike67
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Well, I saw the hlp6163 in the store and immediately fell in love with the picture - then got on line and couldn't find any real reviews, just user opinions. Until I found this forum, everything I read was good and I was getting ready to make the purchase ($3,999 - Sears, Best Buy etc.) Now I'm second guessing - for four grand, I want to plug this baby in and watch it for the next 7 to 10 years, you know. What's the latest on these sets, are new purchasers still having problems? should I look at the mitsu again? should I wait for the next samsung releases?
Also, a related question. If nobody is offering A/V receivers with dvi/hdmi inputs and outputs (other than a $6,000 dennon), what's the best way to hook up - digital picture is great, but i'd much rather run my full a/v digital out of it's source, into my a/v receiver and let the receiver then output it to my surround speakers and the tv - what's everyone else doing with this stuff these days?
mike: maybe its just me (and im sure this board will correct me if i am wrong) but very few people are SO unhappy with their HLP to completely return it. if you are an early-adopter type, this is definitely the TV for you. if you are more conservative (sounds like you may be) you may want to buy a late-year HLN model or wait for the other companies to offer DLPs and let them get thru teething pains (another 6-9mo). i am somewhere in between (early adopter but easily annoyed by breakage) and would still buy my 50" HLP again (i am on unit #2 after light engine blew)
on your related q, what im doing is running all my video sources via component input thru pre/pro so family can operate the system easily. but i also have the DVD/HDTV connected directly to the TV's DVI/HDMI inputs; then when _i_ watch hdtv or (especially) movies, i just switch the video setting from component to DVI on the TV.
the other alternative (going back to early adopter) is to wait prob 6-9 mo for an affordable DVI pre/pro (i understand Outlaw's new 790 pre/pro is supposed to do DVI switching for under $1k). sign me up for that deal!
Here is my issues with my Samsung HLN467W Tantus TV: Bought it in June '04 and it worked beautifully for 2 months, then it started having problem turning on the lamp, it would try three times and reset then the TV goes into 3 light blinking mode that you can only get out of by unplugging the TV. This phenominum happened about once a week. I called GoodGuys and it took them 4 weeks to get a guy out to change the light engine (it took them that long to get the parts shipped to them). The light bulb was supposed to be replaced the same time, but the bulbed delivered was of the wrong connector. So I will have to wait for another 3 to 4 weeks for the new bulb. Once the light engine has been replaced we have not noticed the blinking light issue. I think this does in fact solve the problem. But I bought extended insurance just to be safe should this happens again.
Otherwise, the TV has been an excellent unit. picture quality is excellent. I have not experienced any sync. problems like others have described.
Best,
Mike
Johnnytv2004
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Posted on
I was totally in love with my HLP5063W, that has changed. I had the TV repaired twice in less than 4 months. And it making the high pitch whistling noise again !!!!! CC wants to bring out a new one but maybe I'll go with the new SONY GW4 LCD instead.. : \ Not sure yet
Mesquite
Unregistered guest
Posted on
Well...It's been three weeks since my last posting. My HLP5063W starts up first time every time since the Toshiba lamp was replaced with a Phillips lamp. It's a fantastic picture. No other issues whatsoever. Get extended warranty protection, though. It's a must for anyone enjoying this cutting edge technology. Like I saw another guy say, "The water is so wet we keep a mop handy". HD is simply amazing!
I know several people have had problems with the HLP4663W and audio/synch problems. I called Samsung and they said that I needed to unplug my digital cable running to my receiver. This is because component cables are analog and that sometimes the sound will get to the receiver faster. That kind of defeats the whole purpose of surround sound, right? Anyone else find a way to fix this? I tried adding a delay to my speakers, which is better, but still not great. By the way, this is only for regular cable channels, HD channels work perfectly.
Anonymous
Posted on
Ryan, Have you made dure the internal TV audio is turned off?
Samsung Loyalist
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I bought a Samsung HLP6163W back in August and I am having the "three blinking lights of doom" problem, where you have to unplug the TV, wait a half hour, plug it back in and it works fine. Do I have to replace the light bulb or the light engine?
Ryan_In_KC
Unregistered guest
Posted on
Anonymous, yes I have the internal audio off. Also, when I have the receiver turned off and audio coming out the TV, there are no audio/video synch problems. Only normal channels when listening through the receiver.
The delay problem is due to Samsung's slow conversion chip. The TV must convert all sources to 1280x720 to fit the screen properly. 720p HD content requires no conversion and 1080i it is a slight down conversion so no video delay should be noticable. With SDTV the 480i signal takes a lot of processing to convert to 720p. The time it takes to convert the signal is longer than the time it takes for the audio to go straight to your reciever. That's why you get a delay when using a reciever. When using the TV's internal speakers no delay will occur because both audio and video are processed together.
Samsung has been replacing the light engine and processors in hopes of curing the issue. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. But at about $1200 per swap, Samsung is trying to avoid this proceedure. If you press them, they will replace the internal parts of your TV in an attempt to remedy the problem. This issue is the number one reason I crossed Samsung off my list when shopping for a TV.
Ryan_In_KC
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Posted on
Mr.Lynch, what TV would you recommend that is 50" or less? As well as DLP or LCD? I've read several reviews on some of the TV's that CC has and Samsung is still considered one of the best.
Ryan_In_KC
Unregistered guest
Posted on
By the way, for everyone else, here is what's on Samsungs website about the Audio/Synch issue (which doesn't exactly work)
If the sound on your DLP TV is out of sync with your picture and the TV is not connected to a home theater system, a Samsung technician can adjust the sound sync function on the TV so that the sound and picture are in sync.
To arrange a service call to adjust the sound sync function, call Samsung Customer Care at 1-800-SAMSUNG (1-800-726-7864).
If the sound on your DLP TV is out of sync with your picture and you are using a home theater system (HTS), things become more difficult. In many setups, the television signal comes into a set top box. The set top box audio output is connected directly to the HTS and the set top box video output is connected directly to the TV. Consequently, the audio portion of the signal is sent directly to the HTS without passing through the TV, and the video portion of the signal is sent directly to the TV without passing through the HTS. The two signals are separated and cannot be synced by adjusting the sound sync function in the TV.
If your system is set up as described above, you still may be able to resolve the sound sync problem. Check your HTS user's manual to see if your HTS has a Sound Delay function. If it does, you may be able to adjust the Sound Delay so that the sound and picture are in sync.
If your HTS does not have a Sound Delay function, you may be able to purchase an audio delay device that you can put into your system between the set top box and the HTS. You should be able to adjust the audio delay device so that the sound and picture are in sync.
I personally went with a 52" JVC Dila. You can read about it under the JVC thread. That might be too big if your looking for under 50". I am very impressed with the Toshibe DLP, which comes in a 46" version. I've also heard a lot of good things about the new Sony and Panasonic LCDs. Since this is a Sammy thread I won't go into details. Search this forum and you will find tons of info on everything out there. You can also send me a Private message if you want to talk.
Anonymous
Posted on
So does anyone have the specific part numbers for the "light engines", module's, or whatever Samsung has been replacing....??? My "local" service shop is clueless....and that's being polite... If I tell them exactly what I need/want they can handle it....I'm replacing the bulb on Wed. and if that doesn't do it I need to tell them what I want next....maybe I should become the local Samsung repair rep....
This is from Samsung regarding the "lip sync" issues.
Tech must replace the following parts. This is a firmware software, and hardware fix. At the time of this writing the fix consists of replacing the Analog, digital, power supply, remote and light engine. The part # 50DLPLIPSYNCKIT. There is in the work a less aggressive fix, but it is currently not ready
Ryan_In_KC
Unregistered guest
Posted on
Mr.Lynch, where did you see that information? I'm going to call Samsung and have them replace these parts if that will fix the issue.