Archive through September 27, 2004
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New member Username: JvanPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-04 | I have a 42" Samsung DLP, about three years old. The bulb blew on it (out of warranty of course) last month - I just got it back from the repair shop. The tech tells me that everytime the tv COMPLETELY loses its power source (unplugged, power outage, etc.) the settings will reset, producing a dark picture once power is restored. The only way to get the "brighter picture" back is to have a technician go into the box with a special tool and fix it. They told me Samsung made the tv this way. This sounds like a load of crap to me? Advice.....? |
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Bronze Member Username: EmkmdPost Number: 43 Registered: Dec-03 | Not aware that Samsung made a DLP threee years ago. -E |
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mlee Unregistered guest | i don't know about samsung, but ti has been working with dlp for about 10 years. i was about to buy the new 50" samsung dlp but the salesman told me that when there is a power outage the tv has to be repaired. on another note, when i've looked at these tvs setup in the stores i've noticed that the audio and video is not in sync. the timing of when a movie character started moving his mouth to talk did not at all line up with when the sound actually came out. |
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Twotone Unregistered guest | I have a 50" Samsung DLP and it will just shut down. The three indicator lights on the front of the TV will start blinking. At that point you can do nothing but unplug the power. After waiting a few hours, I can start up the TV again and everything works fine for awhile and then it shuts down again. The TV will work for 20 minutes to 2 hours. Has anyone else had this problem and what was the fix. |
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Rick G Unregistered guest | I just purchased the 50" Samsung DLP and had to send the first set back to Best Buy. It would not power up correctly and I could only get it to come on by re-setting the power. I did not notice any sound sync problems but I do see it on the replacement set if the picture is not in the 4:3 ratio. The good news is that I purchased the extended warranty so Best Buy gets to fix any problem for the next 4 years. |
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Andy K Unregistered guest | All, DLP uses 100 Watts light to create that bright image on its DMD chip. That light is very hot during normal operation and therefore if there is any power outage the cooling fan does not get any chance to cool its internal components. The results? Shorter life for the light bulb and other internal components. To avoid this kind of problem, you may want to purchase a UPS and therefore if there is any sudden power dissruption, the UPS still provides your DLP some power to cool itself down. |
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Anonymous | anybody can help me to solve my problem of my tv ... who knows about the SMR4000 ...the problem is when turn the plug is connected to the source there was a standby mode but then when i turn on the power shitch..nothing come out ...pls help me to solve this problem .... |
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New member Username: Bert2Post Number: 5 Registered: Jun-04 | Ah!, so we have a power cut and the machine overheates causing a fault that is not then covered by warranty or able to be challenged in the courts. I don't think so. This is a forseeable event and could be overcome by including a capacitor in the fan circuit. |
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New member Username: Wlball47Dall, Texas Usa Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-04 | I have been purchasing via auctions the DLP replacement module boards. They are manufactured by Texas Instruments, brand new, and verified by T.I. Tech's. If anyone has a need for any replacement part and you know what the part name and or number is, I have them--Brand New! |
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Rich louis Unregistered guest | I just purchase Samsung DLP50"- HLP5063W about a month ago. After the first day I didn't get any picture. Blinking 3 indicator lights. Manual says possible defective bulb call technicial. Store says they will call warranty service. I say Bull@#$! NO WAY. I demand and get another new one to replace it. Now a month later and the one I have is starting to act up. No picture. The TV tries 3times to get the bulb or picture image unsuccessfully then the 3 flashing light come on. Picture won't come back on unless I unplug it for a while then it stays on for a while. Has anybody else had this problem? I'm going to contact samsung tommorrow. Is this a product problem or did I get 2 bad TV's? I think product problem. Could it be similar to the Sony bulb problem with their rear projection TV's? Good thing I bought 5 yr warranty. Any advice. |
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Rich Louis Unregistered guest | I just purchase Samsung DLP50"- HLP5063W about a month ago. After the first day I didn't get any picture. Blinking 3 indicator lights. Manual says possible defective bulb, call technician. Store says they will call warranty service. I say Bull@#$! NO WAY. I demand and get another new one to replace it. Now a month later and the one I have is starting to act up. No picture. The TV tries 3times to get the bulb or picture image unsuccessfully then the 3 flashing light come on. Picture won't come back on unless I unplug it for a while and restart. Then it stays on for a while. This has happened 3 times now. Has anybody else had or heard of this problem? I'm going to contact samsung tommorrow. Is this a product problem or did I get 2 bad TV's? I think product problem. Could it be similar to the Sony bulb problem with their rear projection TV's? Good thing I bought 5 yr warranty. Any advice. |
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Unregistered guest | Rich, I also purchased the same tv (HLP5063w ) and have experienced the same scenario. My 2nd tv has not been delivered yet. In addition, to no picture I would also get vertical lines in the picture at 1" increments visible mostly on white or sky blue backgrounds. Screen would go to black after 30 minutes, then I unplug and it would stay on for a while. I bought a 4 year warranty. Now, wondering if this tv will last. Bob |
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Jose31 Unregistered guest | Same problem here. Had it for two weeks and the lamp light began to flash. After powering it off for a couple of hours and plugging it back in all the lights would stay on. I just exchanged it for a 2nd one and hopefully it won't happen again. |
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Unregistered guest | Exactly the same problem I have had with the HLP5063W. First one ended up totally dead within 23 hours of brand new. Second one is acting the same on a more frequent basis. Current fix is to unplug for no less than 10 minutes (20 minutes is more reliable for successful restart). OK.... now we've established a major issue common to almost every unit of this model. SAMSUNG == what are you going to do about it??? |
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Unregistered guest | I also have had the 3 blinking light dead picture on my 2 week old HLP-4663W. Called Samsung and was told "problem what problem". It went straight back to SEARS. |
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New member Username: RandygatorLakeland, FL United States Post Number: 3 Registered: Jul-04 | Is this a problem with just the 50", or does it show up on the 61" also. I have a HLP6163W on order right now. |
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Bob Janoske Unregistered guest | It looks like it is a problem for the 46" and 50", so it may be also for the 61". Samsung really needs to get off their butt, or sales will drop to nil. |
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Anonymous | All, I've had my HLP5063W for 4 weeks and absolutely love it! No problems to speak of until I pay my AmX today! If I had only one complaint it would be the reproduction of analog signals. Hard to blame Sammy on that. |
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Whatever Unregistered guest | "OK.... now we've established a major issue common to almost every unit of this model." WOW, if that's true Samsung is in big trouble! According to the empirical evididence in this thread and by the time that comment was made, not only would Samsung have made a crappy product, they also would have only sold 5 hlp5063 sets!!! FWIW, here's a link to a poll taken. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=422855&highlight=poll |
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Ron_G Unregistered guest | I've had my HLP5063W for 31 days. Last night, the picture died and I got 3 blinking lights. Sounds like the same problem other folks are having. I hope Tweeters can work with Samsung to resolve the issue. |
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estam Unregistered guest | FWIW.....I saw the 5085 next to the 5063 at CC and the 85 blows away the 63 series....CANNOT wait for the 5674 to come out it is gonna be amazin!!!!!!!!!too bad they couldn't roll it out for the olympics..... |
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Unregistered guest | I was thinking about buying a HLP5063 but now I am hesitating. Should I wait? |
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lr sanders Unregistered guest | I have a 61 inch Samsung DLP. It is about 5 months old and have had no problems with it. I came to this site looking for the price of a light bulb for when it does go out someday. It is usually cool in the basement where I have it - I wonder if these problems are related to hot rooms? |
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estam Unregistered guest | Ron, go see for yourself at CC |
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Unregistered guest | just purchased samsung hlp4663 from circuit city. when i play a movie that is in widescreen displaying the black bars on top & on bottom. the top bar sort of curves in towards the middle of the screen approx. 1/4 of inch from that of the side of the screen. this happens no matter what source dvd,cable & satellite. i took the first tv back & exchanged it & the same thing with the second set. any feedback would be greatly appreciated thanks paul |
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Anonymous | I think this is being caused by your picture size setting. Make sure it's in 'Wide' and not one of the others. That should solve the problem. |
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paulj Unregistered guest | it is set to wide. a samsung tech came out today and was not able to correct this. since this is on the 2nd set it must be an inherit flaw in this model. guess it will be going back to cc and back to the sony xbr 960. |
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H Houston Unregistered guest | I too am having problems with the Samsung 50 inch DLP. You never no when you will have a picture. Brandsmart USA is so slow to respond on a service call, 10 days. They are coming out today and if we get a picture when they are here, they will say its okay. I though Samsung made a better producxt than this. There is a manufacturing problem with this system and I think all of us should bombard Samsung and Consumers Report with Email and letters. Maybe we can get a recall on this system. I too bought a four year extension warranty, but I had a Mitsubishi for 14 years with no problems. |
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Unregistered guest | Has anyone had trouble with the HL-P5063W, and the audio out not working. My brother in law has one, and since he bought it in April it hasn't worked. I don't see any option to turn it on or off. Should it be on all the time? |
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Anonymous | We bought a 50" Samsung (HLN5065W) at Best Buy just over a year ago. We don't normally purchase extended warranties but the sales person at Best Buy recommended the extended warranty because the bulbs are prone to burn out in about 3 yrs and the cost of just one bulb would pay for the price of the extended warranty. We took the 4 year extended warranty for $300. Two weeks ago the picture went out with only sound remaining. Basically the same senerio - blinking indicator lights on the front of the TV until sound also goes. Pull the plug, wait, no picture but sound comes back and then it shuts down again. The service man arrived today. He said it's probably the bulb (he didn't bring one) and hated to be the bearer of bad news but the bulb is not covered by warranty. He said he would go back (half way across the state) and get a price on a bulb for us. I saw this string of emails as I was searching (unsuccessfully!) for the price of a bulb on the net. |
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Unregistered guest | Purchased a new HLP5063W at CC in June. Had startup problems from the getgo. By end of July was only getting the evil 3 flashing lights at startup. Contacted Samslug and had to leave a message as I don't think they ever intend to answer. It took them 2 weeks to get back to me, referring to a local repairs shop. 3 days later tje repair shop said DLP TV was not repairable and that I should contact Samslug. I contacted them and they said a Customer service rep" would get back to me. After 4 days I'm still waiting for the return call. |
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Anonymous | I too bought a new HLP5063W from CC in June and started experiencing startup problems after few weeks. I think it was the bulb because it would work again if I removed it and reinstalled it. The TV would never die, just not start after being off for a night (3 flashing lights). I called Samsung and they sent a tech out within a week. He replaced the entire light engine (kind of cool, pulled the whole thing out and was finished in about 10 minutes). I told him I thought it was the bulb but he was set on replacing the entire engine, almost as if he knew this was an ongoing problem. I never bother calling CC, I just figured it would be a headache trying to get a new set. So far the TV has been fine, over 2 weeks and counting... |
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Kenneth Unregistered guest | I bought my HLN436W DLP TV a year ago. It just passes my warranty. Now, the 3 light blinking appears and service man quote me $1400 to replace the engine. Does any one has the same problem? Would Samsung do something about it if I am out of the warranty??? Unfortunately, I didn't buy the extended warranty.... |
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Anonymous | You might want to try just a new bulb first... |
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Partha Unregistered guest | I just bought a HLN437W a few weeks ago. After about a week, I got the infamous "flashing LED" problem (3 cycles without video, all 3 LED's flashing). They warranty guy came after a week (!) and replaced the bulb a week ago. Now I am getting the same problem again! I am really, really angry. Has anyone gotten this fixed? |
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Colvin Unregistered guest | Same problem, the fix was to get a different model TV but aparently Samsung is having real issues with this as even teh new models do it. I hope that you purchased an extended warranty |
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Bob Janoske Unregistered guest | The Best Buy repair Tech was out to check out my 5063 with this problem, and said he knew what it was before even turning it on. He said he was supposed to replace the bulb and the "driver" (what we have been referring to as the ballast). He had bulbs, but the ballast was out of stock. It is supposed to be delivered direct to my house tomorrow (Thurs. 9/2), and then I'm supposed to make a service appointment for him to install bulb and ballast. I'll post the results (may not be for a week). |
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Eric R. Unregistered guest | "Rich Louis" and everyone else... I too am having this "no picture, 3 lights flashing problem," - I found this forum through a Google search. I purchased the HL-P5063W on 7/31/04 and started getting this problem on 8/29. I was able to get it to work eventually by unplugging it for some time, then giving the bulb time to warm back up. However today it just won't start up. It basically tries to warm the lamp twice before giving me the 3 lights of death... I just called Samsung and they will schedule a technician visit to replace the bulb. I don't think they are aware of this problem. Anyway, I would like to keep this dialogue going, so please stay in touch. I think I'm going to write Samsung and include a link to this forum. |
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Anonymous | I had a Samsung HLP-4663W that was delivered on August 7th. It lasted for 2 weeks (exactly) until it started having the "3 flashing lights at startup" problem. It would give me that problem randomly although it was usually after watchiing TV for a while and then turning it off it wouldn't come back on. I called CircuitCity and they delivered a new HLP4663W two days after I called. I've had the new one for a little less than 2 weeks and although it has been working fine, tonight it took a while to power on. I can see the problem developing before my own eyes. If it fully manifests itself like I expect it will, I will be reaching out to Samsung to get it fixed (replace balast/bulb). I agree this is a problem that they need to be made aware of and offer proactive repairs but I got an amazing deal on this TV and there is nothing out there available for this price that comes even close. Can someone tell me what number you called for Samsung to send a tech out? |
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Josh31 Unregistered guest | I have the 50". I dont have any lights flashing or lights blinking, but there is a very loud buzzing noise that varies at times. Lately, its getting too loud to watch anymore. It sounds like its going to explode. I think its the fan inside there because it buzzes even after turned off while the fan cools the bulb. Any advice about this? Should I pull apart and grease it or get it fixed? Ideas on cost of this? |
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Eric R. Unregistered guest | "Anonymous" - I called the general 1-800-SAMSUNG number and connected to technical support. If you're under warranty, they'll initiate a service request number for you. I'm now waiting for the service place in my area to get the specific bulb/ballast in. My TV is down until about Tuesday/Wednesday of next week. |
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Anonymous | Eric, Thanks for the response. Do you think it's best to go through Samsung or CircuitCity? I purchased the extended warranty service through them for 2 years...the way this TV is going I may have to extend it for 4 years. What's your take, Circuit City or Samsung?? BTW, I found this leaflet that came in my TV box yesterday saying that after you turn the TV off, the fan runs for about 1 min to cool the bulb down and if you try re-powering the tv back on before that 1 min, it may take longer because the bulb is still too hot. I tried it and it does do it. if you turn your tv off and then immediately turn it back on, most of the time it takes longer than usual to power on. I can't imagine this is healthy to do often so I'm going to try and avoid this going forward. |
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Norm G Unregistered guest | I have owned a 50" Samsung for 22 months and just this week I got the 3 lights of death. To this point it has been a great set. No other problems and we have been very happy with it. I bought it from Tweeters and fortunatly purchased a 5 year extended warrenty. Tweeters tells me they will order a bulb but it wont arrive until the 15th of the month. Is the ballast also necessary? What is the ballast by the way? Is this the entire light engine? |
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JohnD Unregistered guest | I also own the Samsung 5063W, not having any problems whatsoever. Many of you are saying that your 'solution' is to pull the plug and wait 10 or 20 minutes. That action, right there, is what is causing damage to your TV! Turn the power off via the remote (fine), but do not unplug the TV. That will stop the cooling fan from running, drastically shorting the life of your 100Watt bulb. I keep my power cord connected, and run the TV off of a UPS, so that if the power goes out [or flickers], the TV won't see it, and gives me a chance to shut the TV off correctly. |
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Anonymous | JohnD, Why would stopping the cooling fan at the same time the bulb turns off reduce the life of the bulb? Rudimentary physics tells you that as soon as the power to the bulb is turned off it is not going to get any hotter that the current temperature at that point, which should be no higher than the intended "cruising" temperature. |
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Eric R. Unregistered guest | "Anonymous" - I asked that very question to Samsung, about whether I go through them or Best Buy for my extended service plan. Samsung said I go through them (Samsung) b/c I fall within the initial 1-year manufacturer's warranty. Regarding the cool down, as good practice I always allowed an excess of 10 minutes before turning the TV back on, to let the bulb cool. The "cruising temperature" argument raises an interesting point, however heat needs to be dissipated as quickly as possible, whether it is currently being generated by a lit bulb or not. "Norm G" - I think the ballast is the whole bulb casing/engine, but I'm not entirely sure. I think my service people might replace this for mine.... |
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rollins Unregistered guest | What type of UPS are you guys using? I just purchased a 400 Watt with automatic voltage regulator - since these DLPs are drawing 200 watts - I figured that should be enough if the power goes off or if there is a great deal of variability |
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New member Username: RandygatorLakeland, FL United States Post Number: 4 Registered: Jul-04 | Rollins, I asked the same question on this forum and no one answered. It seems to me that a UPS is almost required for these units. If your power goes out you will need the UPS so your fan can continue the cool down process. Anonymous ... RUDIMENTARY phcsics would tell you that without the "normal" cooling of the cooling fan the temperature of the lamp will still spike even if the light is off. The "cool down period" is actually just an extention of the "normal" cooling/heat extraction. |
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New member Username: RandygatorLakeland, FL United States Post Number: 5 Registered: Jul-04 | Well, I ordered the HLP6163W from TVAuthority on the AVS Forum Powerbuy. Great deal. It was supposed to arrive at their shipper on 8/11, got to them on 8/19, they shipped to me on 8/20 and it arrived 8/25. Set it up that night and all I got was sound and "flickers" in the bottom corners. Thought it was OE (operator error) so I reconnected as a basic hookup. No change. Called TVAuthority, they sent me to Samsung, it took 2 days to get the name of the service authority, but they called me late on Friday 8/27 and they came out on Sat. 8/28. Twenty minutes after he arrived the problem was diagnosed. 3/4's of the mirror was in pieces and on the botton of the unit. It has taken until this Thursday for TVAuthority to ship another, hope to receive it 9/8, if FRANCES will pass on through (I'm in Central Florida). Will let you know how the second unit survives the trip. |
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Anonymous | It is unfortunate to hear of problems regarding the Samsung sets. Especially considering the price of such an item. I have resisted my urge to purchase Samsung DLP despite them being nice looking sets. Samsung 'ran' with a technology that others were slow to embrace (due to production costs or greater interest in LCD flat or LCoS). As a result they have been dominating the market in DLP. Being the 'first' in the market is a tremendous accomplishment in any industry. I have been frustrated by the competitive sets released from Toshiba and Mitsubishi, but still have not chosen to purchase Samsung. Before Samsung DLP there was Samsung CRT. Reliability and repair may not seem like important issues when talking about an 'inexpensive' 27" for $300. For a $3000+ TV it is. I have not been treated well by Samsung products. Published repair rates have also validated my opinion. Yes, we are dealing with different technology. But Samsung is still Samsung. It is still less expensive than the other leaders, and it is still more focused on market share and units sold than quality. (Thus the HD3 release before the HD2+). Probably won't spend my $3000+ on Samsung. For what its worth. |
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Anonymous | I bought the Samsung HLP-5063 from CC 2 weeks ago. I've had the "3 lights of death" happen 4 times. I've also seen the audio and video not in sync. Not sure which is more annoying! I'm still within my 30 day return period, so it's going back to CC tomorrow. I'm looking at the Hitachi 50VS810 to replace it. |
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Anonymous | I just spoke to Samsung (they picked up the phone right away on Labor day at 9am, which was very impressive) and after explaining the issue, they told me it was a "common problem"!! (rolling my eyes). Anyway she was really nice and gave me a different 800 # to call with a service ticket# and arrange an appointment. That department is closed today but will be opened tomorrow, I'll call them and schedule something for hopefully this week. From waht I've read elsewhere, once they replace the ballast (problem part) the issue is resolved. I'm not giving up on this beauty, it's a total steal for the $2500 I paid for it. This is my 2nd HLP4663W and I am not going to have another one. They are going to fix it no matter what...I'll make them regret they gave me a warranty.  |
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New member Username: MsgoldPost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-04 | I am seriously considering purchase of the Samsung HLP4674W when released in Oct. However,because of the need to place the set in a specific location, the set will be positioned above eye-level. Can anyone provide me with information regarding the maximum vertical viewing angle for this HD2+ set. I've been told that the rear of the set can be shimmed so that the screen is tilted downwards to decrease the vertical viewing angle, but this seems like a less than desirable alternative. Will the vertical viewing angle be increased with the later-generation chips, e.g., the X3HD. Thanks for your input. |
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Bob Janoske Unregistered guest | JohnD wrote: Many of you are saying that your 'solution' is to pull the plug and wait 10 or 20 minutes. That action, right there, is what is causing damage to your TV! Turn the power off via the remote (fine), but do not unplug the TV. That will stop the cooling fan from running, drastically shorting the life of your 100Watt bulb. -------------------- The fan only runs for one minute (or less) after shut down. I found that turning the TV back on during that period is NOT a problem. However, after the fan shuts off, the bulb cage temp does climb, and that's when its thermal protection keeps the set from going on. Those of us who wait the 10 to 20 minutes pull the plug "after" the fan stops and after the three lights of death kick in. Per the Samsung Tech, that is the way you are supposed to "reset" the TV. I found that just waiting another 45 minutes, or so, with the dumb lights flashing, lets you turn the set back on OK. I think the main problem is that the fan doesn't run long enough after TV shutdown. It should run at least 5 minutes to get more of a cool down. Although the fan is not noisy, I wouldn't mind more noise for a longer period if it meant less problems. |
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Anonymous | Anyone interested in the Sammy 74 series should have a read here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=441598&pagenumber=1 Take it for what it's worth, perhaps Samsung will confirm at CEDIA. |
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Anonymous | RandyGator, Give me a break, if you cut the power to the TV, it looses it's only source of energy. Like I said before, rudimentary physics then makes it impossible for the temperature of the lamp to rise. Now, if the issue here would be that the hot lamp would damage components around it, it would be a different story since the heat source (the lamp)will remain hot (but certainly not get any hotter) after the power is cut and the fan will be instantly stopped. But, that is not the case, the argument here is that the lamp itself will continue to get hotter and therefore break. Simply not true. Suggested reading: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0764554336 Hahahaha! |
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Marten Unregistered guest | Anonymous, That is funny Hahaha! On a more serious note, I totally agree with you. It should be obvious to anyone that the lamp cannot get any hotter after you cut the power. Unless, of course, there is another heat source inside the TV that is even hotter than the lamp. I think not |
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New member Username: Bert2Post Number: 8 Registered: Jun-04 | You are forgetting the wind chill factor on the bulb glass. When the fan is stopped the still hot element will heat the glass to a higher temperature. It should not blow the element though. |
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Unregistered guest | I posted on August 24 about the startup problem with my HLP and Samsung coming out to replace the light engine. I called yesterday and spoke with the tech who did the work and asked if what he replaced was a straight swap or included any newer, updated components that addresses the 3 blinking lights/startup problem. He told me that it was indeed an update and the TV should be fine from here on out. It's still working great. Maybe people with HLPs should call Samsung and request the same service? Just a thought. |
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New member Username: RandygatorLakeland, FL United States Post Number: 6 Registered: Jul-04 | Dear Anonymous I suggest you review your laws of Thermodynamics. It is not the fact that the energy input is removed (and true, the lamp produces no additional heat), but that the radiation medium (fan moving air past the heated blub) is reduced significantly therefore an insulation barrier is created and some items of the lamp will rise to higher temperature levels then with the fan running (heat seeking the better radiation medium). This can cause loss of life for the lamp. Since you are so familiar with the "Dummies" series I assume you never made it to Thermo 101!! This is my last post on this item, I do not want to take up this space with eMail chatter!! |
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GeorgeColler Unregistered guest | We also are experiencing the "3 lights of dissapointment" issue with our new HL-P5063W. Same story as some of the above. Bought the unit and the first weekend it stopped turning on. Had to wrangle with Best Buy to trade in for another one. Now one month later here we are again. I'm glad we found this forum because it gives us some ammunition. Going between Best Buy and the Samsung folks is a pain. BTW: Am trying the pulling the plug trick now. I don't know why the goofballs above are arguing about whether this trick hurts the bulb or not because the problem is that the tv won't turn on all the way. Meaning that the bulb is cold not hot when you pull the plug. You can quote all the physics you want but you got to get the facts straight if you want to sound smart :-) Am going to work towards making Best Buy take this back or send out someone with the new ballast or whatever. |
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Eric R. Unregistered guest | As an update... I will be getting my new bulb and ballast installed today. I will follow up and let you know how it goes. See my post(s) above - "Eric R." |
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New member Username: KevintranPost Number: 3 Registered: Aug-04 | I just got my Samsung HLP6163 yesterday from shopsunshine for less than $3760 including shipping. What a good deal compared to BestBuy and Circuit City! My TV is connected with my Samsung TS360 receiver with DVI cable. It's amazingly sharp with HD channels (e.g Discovery HD). The status indicates that it's displayed in 1920x1080i. However, I can see some level of flickering with normal channels (e.g CNN, etc...). Is it normal? I called Samsung technical support and they told me it's normal for all big screen DLP, LCD, or Plasma. It looks really annoying. The status indicates that it's displayed in 720x480i. I used to have Sony XBR 63'' TV. I didn't see this problem. |
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Eric R. Unregistered guest | Kevin Tran - Yes, you will see the DLP flicker with standard definition television, especially the closer you get to the screen. You have the 61", which needs at least 15 feet of distance b/w you and the TV for "optimal viewing." This is one of the reasons why I didn't go with the 61". Even in HD, the closer you approach the screen, the more you will see the DLP technology work (which is one of the downsides). By the way, everyone, I just had my bulb (no ballast) replaced minutes ago by a service rep, and it is working... for now. It appears that this problem may occur again since many of you have experienced it. I'll continue to remain active in this forum thread. Good luck all! |
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New member Username: KevintranPost Number: 4 Registered: Aug-04 | Eric, Does this flickering issue occur on all DLP TVs regardless who makes it (e.g Panasonic, Toshiba, etc...)? Do you know if this also happens with Plasma or LCD TVs? If I knew DLP flickering issues, I would have stayed away from DLP TVs. :-( I am really impressed with this TV when I watch HD channels or DVDs. However, most of the time I watch local channels or CNN which are broadcasted by DirectTV in non-HD. DirectTV broadcasts only a few channels in HD. Thanks, |
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GeorgeSF Unregistered guest | To our many fellow suffers [see the names above], greetings! Maybe we'll all be co-plaintiffs in a consumer class action some day. After much research, including a long look at the preceeding model, we chose the Samsung HLP5063W. It took the better part of six months to screw up the courage and pull the trigger on such a major outlay. We did, last June, and got it from Best Buy for $600 off MSRP [they met an online competitor's price], along with Monster cables, [no theater audio yet], stand, line conditioner, and a four year service extension. It took a few days to arrive and was not too difficult to set up. Incidently, we routed the cable box via the surge protector to the set and hooked the DVD via the DVI, but, the picture was poor. Comcast said to use S-video for the DVD and the DVI for the HD cable box, but to skip the co-ax surge protection because it weakened the signal, as did the splitters in our walls. With that wiring and a new direct co-ax from the source, the picture was robust and wonderful. But, from day one, we noticed a soft gray smudge in the center of the display, about six inches from the top. I should have sent the thing back then under the 30 days-no hassle promise at Best Buy, but everything else seemed fine and time slipped by. My advice in retrospect: tolerate nothing in the honeymoon period. Get a replacement if there's the slightest flaw. About five weeks after we got it, the set began to intermittently balk at coming on. All three LEDs lit, indicating the bulb needed service, according to the manual. Yet, it was possible, for awhile, to force it to work again by unplugging it, waiting a few minutes to a half hour [missing the programing meanwhile, of course], then plugging it in again. After a couple of weeks of that nonesense, it quit altogether, and we finally called Samsung for help. They engaged a local service firm that had not seen this model before. The serviceman said the lamp was fine. It was decided that the display and one other board [some sort of powere supply, I think] needed replacement. While we waited for the new boards to come, I plugged the TV in again. It would not go "onn" until I held the power button on the set down for 30-60 seconds. That seemed to re-set everything. It worked perfectly [save the smudge remained] until the "repairs" were made. When the technician arrived for his second visit, he noted that one of the boards Samsung sent was not what he was told was needed [I believe he said it was the DVI board instead]; however, both were installed. In the process, a speck was noted on the face of the DLP chip removed with the old display board. The tech brushed it off with his finger and acknowledged that it was in exactly the same position as and most likely source of the onscreen smudge [so much for "clean room" assembly lines]. That was the good news. The smudge was gone. But now, the blue and red are reversed. Green, black, and white appear relatively normally. All flesh tones are shades of Martian blue and, the longer it's own, the muddier the picture become [things are shwon in tone zones like a child's coloring book]. What's happening? The last state of the HLP5063W is worse than the first, but neither Samsung nor Best Buy is ready to swap it out for one the works. Now, they want to try a new "engine." What's happening? Is our experience unique? I'd appreciate [B]any[/B] comment on [B]any[/B] part of this long, sad story [believe me, it could be longer] from the hook up to the "repairs" to the experiences of other with Samsung and Best Buy in such cases. |
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New member Username: GarykPost Number: 4 Registered: Sep-04 | For all of you arguing for laws of physics and such, please consider the fact that film and movie projectors since the forties have always employeed fans to cool the internals after shutdown. It is true that when the power is cut, no more heat is added; however, the fan dissipates heat and once power is cut, then the heat will remain concentrated in a small area which can damage the internal parts such as lenses, electronics and plastics. Get over it and get a UPS is you want a Samsung. My view is that this is a reckless and stupid way to design a consumer product, even if the set produces wonderful pictures when it is working properly. |
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New member Username: UnforgivnPost Number: 6 Registered: Sep-04 | First weekend with the 5085W, watching DirectTV HDTV football with no problems using sammy 360 HD reciever , picture looks awesome, but every time goes to a commercial there is a bad video/audio delay. Any ideas on the problem? Getting FrustrateD! Thanks. |
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New member Username: UnforgivnPost Number: 7 Registered: Sep-04 | Also, I have the Samsung 360 HD reciever set on 720P, is there any way to set this unit to pass thu the signal and let the 5085W do the signal conversion/scaling? Thanks, |
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Eric R. Unregistered guest | KevinTran, I don't know about the flickering on other DLP makes. I am pretty sure LCD and Plasma does not have this small flickering. I assume we're talking about the same thing?? Also, with this Samsung, I notice a lot of graininess around the tv logo in the bottom right corner. GeorgeSF, poor guy. I think you win the "worst experience" award. Gary Kelly, similar to what I said on 9/4, you are correct with your assesment of heat needing to be dissipated. Keeping my fingers crossed, as my set has been fine now for 3 days and counting. Ha. |
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KevDog Unregistered guest | I purchased my hlp5063 from Circuit City at the beginning of September. Got a really good deal as I spent about 2 hours there haggling with the sales guy. I must be honest that this TV is sharp. HD looks beyond real, especially watching the football games over the weekend and some of the primetime channels for the fall shows. I've read that some of you are experiencing problems. I have yet to experience the 3 flashing lights that seems to be common, but have noticed about 2 or 3 large, baseball size smudges on the screen when the TV is off. Their circular, but uneven and have a grayish/white color to them. At first I didn't think much of it, but like you've all said, if you spend this much, you want the TV to be perfect. I called Samsung and one gal told me she thinks the color wheel is defective. Another Samsung technician told me I might have an air bubble trapped between the two screens, and that this is the 3rd or 4th time he's heard of it. I figure it could only get worse if I don't handle the problem now. The screen replacement is on backorder and it'll take 2 weeks to get to me. I'm thinking, either way, whatever the problem is, since I'm within my 30 days, it's going back to Circuit City for a replacement. I'm curious as to whether CC will want me to have it serviced first? We'll see. Have any of you experienced the large smudges on your screen? Have you heard what the cause of this is? I'll stay in touch as to the outcome of this and fill you in on any other pros and cons I encounter down the road. |
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UnderWarranty Unregistered guest | Sammy Tech just left after installing a new bulb & ballast under warranty. Cost would have been $465 total, incl labor. Part numbers: - Assy Cover Proj Lamp, BP96-00608A, $221.25 - Assy Ballast, BP96-000690A, $144.01 - Labor, $100.00 (I would have attached invoice, but this forum only accepts 1 Kb images) |
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GeorgeSF Unregistered guest | KevDog, see my note re dust on display chip above. By all means replace the lemon in a timely fashion (see also above). While I've had no substantive response to my diverse questions, you can see a trend, so, be alert. |
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Nick330 Unregistered guest | I am at the very end of my honeymoon period and I came to this site to see if anyone was experiencing sound timing issues. My set looks like I am watching a bad foreign movie with the sound and the picture not timed properly. Not many others are discussing this issue but I guess if my set was not working like many of yours I would have other things to worry about as well. Now you all have me worried about the picture problems. I am wondering now if I should just return to Tweeter and continue looking. I should note, I have the HLN507W not the HLP that is talked about primarily. What is the difference? I did get a good deal on the HLN, is that because it is even older technology? Otherwise I have had no problem with the set. I love surfing the internet hooking my wireless laptop up to it so I do want a set with PC hookup. Is there a better set out there now that I am still within my 30 days and have the option to take back??? |
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Eric R. Unregistered guest | Nick330, the HLN is the 2nd generation model, whereas the HLP is the 3rd-gen (newest) model that came out in June. Supposedly, Samsung worked out a lot of the issues with the HLN. Some of these things include better picture quality (newer Faroudja DCDi chip), they minimized cooling fan and color wheel noise, and fixed other little bugs. The HLP also has a black border to eliminate glare when viewing at night, whereas the HLN has a silver border that can reflect light in a dark room. Retailers are looking to move the HLNs, so that's probably why you got such a good deal. Good luck with your decision, let me know what you decide to do! |
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JUNK TV Unregistered guest | I HAVE THE HLM 507W AND AFTER 10 M0NTHS I WOULD GET THE THREE BLINKING LIGHTS. I WOULD UNPLUG THE SET AND RESTART AND THEN THE PICTURE WOULD COME ON. NOW AFTER 22 MONTHS NO PICTURE JUST 3 BLINKING LIGHTS. SAMSUNG WILL NOT WORK WITH ME. WHY WOULD ANYONE BUY ANYTHING FROM THEM WHEN ALL OF US ARE HAVING PROBLEMS. THEY ADVERTISE 8000 HRS ON THE BULB BULL... HOW ABOUT 200-900.THIS IS NOTHING BUT HIGH PRICE JUNK. |
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charles Unregistered guest | i am a ht sup at a local best buy. we have had the HL-P5063W displayed for more then a month now. it is on 13+ hours a day. there has not been a single problem with anything. hd baseball games still look as amazing as the first time we displayed it. non-hd still looks like crap just like the first time. just like a computer...wait a little before turning it off and on and off and on all the time...and take care of it. and to those that complain about bb or cc for not doing anything for them when their tv broke after 30 days...this is why we offer and push our proformance service plans. 4 years = $400 with bb. anytime it breaks, u'll get in home service and if u have to service it more then 3 times, u get a new one. or u can pay $460+ for parts and labor everytime it breaks after the manufactor's warrenty to samsung. and people complain about why we push that stuff. and for those who were smart to get the cityadvantage or psp's...tv's are not made with care nowadays. just like food...one mcdonald fries can taste different from another mcdonalds fries. nothing can be perfect and they are still improving on the technology. give it a little more time. just be glad that now u can get it fixed anytime u want without having to cough up ur lung for labor and part fees. have a good day to you all. |
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D & F Unregistered guest | I have a HLP6163W. Samsung repair man showed up last night & replaced the lamp & the ballast on my 37 day old tv. In & out in 15 minutes & no questions asked. Anyone know how the repair man got the lamp usage screen from pressing a bunch of buttons (code) on the remote? The lamp only had 181 hours on it. |
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dloy Unregistered guest | Here is something that might help put things in perspective. 1) Samsung is aware of the problems and when you call 1-800-726-7864 they will call your local area repair guy who in turn calls you to make an appointment. 2)They are replacing the entire DLP engine and not screwing around with the bulbs anymore. I called the minute I started to have problems with the set trying to come on, I had read these horror stories. I just left the set on 24 hrs a day for 5 days until the repair. 3) According to the guy who has done quite a few, once the engine is replaced the problems are over. The ballast alone won't do it, the bulb alone won't do it. Get a new DLP Engine! By the way it's a $1200.00 part. So with the labor and stuff Sammy is taking a beating, but too bad.... when I spend $4000.00 for a set (hlp6163w) they better fix it. By the way, the hlp's are not as sharp as the hln's because of cinema smooth (which can be turned off) the blacks are better they have a 7 segment color wheel for no green push and a quieter fan...basically they have tweaked the older hln's. It's a shame so many of you have been put through this but because of you guys I knew just what to do, and I'm very happy now. Hopefully these problems will all go away because remember, we bought the DLP because of no burn in, no degradation of parts etc. Once fixed they should last virtually forever. One last thing...The repair guy also told me there is lots of problems with all the other big names as well. I'm here in Sacramento by the way. |
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D & F Unregistered guest | The piece that the repair man replaced besides the lamp looked like a circuit board with a bunch of objects protruding from it. He said it was the ballast. Any idea what the "engine" looks like? The repair man said that Samsung would cover me for the five years since PC Richards here in NY refused me service after 37 days of ownership. |
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New member Username: KevintranPost Number: 6 Registered: Aug-04 | Dloy, I got a HP6163W 2 weeks ago also. I haven't seen any problems so far but your post really makes me concerned. As you said, we paid almost $4000 for the set and they better fix it if it's a known problem. My TV was manufactured in 08/2004. I am wondering if I should call them up and request a replacement of DLP engine. What was your problem? When did you buy your TV? What date was it manufactured based on the serial#? |
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D & F Unregistered guest | My tv was delivered on Friday August 13th. Go figure! Have not looked at the serial number to be honest. It was delivered to me the same week the store received it. |
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D & F Unregistered guest | Sorry. the problem was that all 3 lights on front were blinking & got no pictuer. according to the manual the bulb needed to be replaced. |
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New member Username: RandygatorLakeland, FL United States Post Number: 7 Registered: Jul-04 | Well I got my replacement HLP6163W, last Wednesday (after Florence) (other had shipping damage, broken mirror before) I have it hooked up (no HD, Yet BrightHouse is such a pain to schedule with)with standard digital cable output, analog sound. Picture seems very good for the signal I'm putting in. One problem, I have a video-sound sync problem when I route the sound through my A/V Surround receiver. It actually seem like the sound is ahead of the video. When I go straight from the cable into the Ant1 input the sync. problem disappears. Any ideas?? Wired wrong? (O.E., operator error?) Think the the HD converter box will fix this? I did use a UPS between the grid and the set to insure proper cool down. What do you guys think about letting the set run 24/7 to get the 3 blinking lights right away so it can be changed out? Or am I taking a chance on just using up lamp life? |
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D & F Unregistered guest | Not until 3 days b4 the repair man showed up to replace my lamp did I try to remove & unplug the tv. This was done the morning before the service man came that afternoon. Well guess what. After I replaced the same lamp & plugged the tv back in the blinking lights went away & the tv worked again. How did that happen? The serviceman came anyways & replaced the lamp & ballast. Said that Samsung would cover me in case of any additional problems but I should not have any further ones. |
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Anonymous | 5063. Aug 04 manufacture Mexico. DirecTV TIVO source. No DVD. No HD. Very light "coloring" of certain gray/grayish areas in AMC/FMC/TCM black and white movies. Occasionally a small area will have a patch of various colors like oil on water. Sometimes associated with textured clothing. Occurs on pavement (textured) displayed on auto and motorcycle races mostly on SpeedTV. Faces occasionally have a yellowish sheen. My 1994 Sony XBR32 produces a better, albeit much darker, picture. You might say I am quite disappointed. Any comments? P.S. It is the thermal mass of the lamp (there is a steep temperature gradient across the glass, probably quartz) that causes the temperature of the lamp to spike higher when the lamp is turned off with the fan already off. |
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dloy Unregistered guest | Here's some more answers I've learned. If your set seems to stuggle turning on, i.e. starts, stops, starts blinking then tries to restart itself several times you're on the road to trouble even if it works fine the next several times it will happen again and eventually it's gonna go. Yes, unplugging it and waiting will seem to help that's why in some posts you see people mention this and they think they are resetting the tv. Not true. What they are really doing is nothing....the current or signal in the engine just makes it through sometimes and living like that is just silly. Running the set 24/7 of course will work 'till the bulb burns out but that's silly also. THE VIDEO SYNC problem is eliminated on the HLP's by turning on the internal mute control in the menu, via remote. this allows your reciever to do the work only. Some recievers even have settings for video sync. Another fantastic way to improve your SD channels picture Quality is to buy the Motorola signal booster they have on their website and is the one circuit city sells. I don't know why they don't throw it in for free they would avoid a lot of returns of the larger rear projection Tv's. It did wonders for me amd most people I've talked to. They really should push it more. It's about $80.00 but they often have a $30.00 rebate on it. Well worth the money. Made my tv go from barely watchable to very watchable. P.S. to poster above you can't "demand" a new engine and you may already be alright since they've fixed many already that are shipping but you can relate the symptoms and let them come up with it themselves. This was hard for Samsung to figure out because the first thing that would cause these symptoms would normally be a bad bulb and then ballast. It never occurred to them it was the entire engine until this kept recurring and by now they've gotten bad press.....a shame really because when they tested they did "burn ins" similar to computer burn ins but they don't turn the sets off and on! Quite the dilemma. All this has been gleaned by me by talking to 2 Sammy techs the tv repair guy who came to my house and a korean friend who read some articles from the homeland. |
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dloy Unregistered guest | Oh one more thing. That power outage rumour where the set is ruined or destroyed is bullcrap. It's like any other tv set: unless there is severe lightening strikes or mega power surges it will be fine if it just loses power. If the lamp is too hot it may take a few minutes before it will allow the set to come back on. That's for the sake of the lamp not the set. |
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GeorgeSF Unregistered guest | Now what? We need quick advice. Both Samsung and Best Buy have responded well. Discouraged when the local shop said the light engine [by the way, it's about a foot square and almost as high, contains lamp, ballast, display board, etc.] was on back order and being [re-?]built in CA, my wife spent over an hour getting through to Samsung. They authorized a replacement, but the tech guy surprised us with a new engine Friday. Since then, all the problems with our original set [made in Korea in late March] have disappeared. It's as good as new. Today, Best Buy called: "Bring in your receipt and we'll give you a new one." Are we better off keeping the one that has been repaired or betting on a fresh one? Or is it not that simple? Do they extend the warranty and open a new 30 day return in such cases? Any wisdom is welcome. |
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dloy Unregistered guest | Gee friend, keep the one that is fixed. Do you want to go through this all again? Remember there isn't much left that can go wrong now. Why tempt fate? Yeah that's exactly the size and look of the engine. See I told you guys they wern't fooling around anymore. Samsung is back on track! |
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D & F Unregistered guest | Now I am confused now. When Samsung came to replace the lamp they said they also replaced the ballast. Would they have replaced the engine instead? They also set my lamp up to show 0 hours on a screen. How did they get to that screen? Repair man used the remote & punched in some codes for it to come up. |
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VinnieZ Unregistered guest | What about us folks that are out of manufacturer warranty but have service contract? I have had an HLM507W for 21 months and now have 3 flashing lights of death. (Have seen the audio/video sync issue but only on some DVDs and Discovery Channel HD) Should I demand complete replacement of engine? Service guy says I need a "bulb retrofit" and it will take 10 days to get one. Anyone else heard of this retrofit crap-o-la? GeorgeSF, I suspect you figured out your color problems are due to your component video inputs (R-G-B) being hooked up wrong (G-B-R). |
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Unregistered guest | I bought a HLN617W in Jan 2004. I've had a couple power outages. So far no problems. TV runs about 8-10 hours a day. Have the computer plugged in, great monitor. I did have Circuit City replace the first TV within days b/c the picture was a little crooked. Also the screen had some shadows when the TV was off. Second TV was the same. No one else notices and I don't anymore. I must be too picky. The picture is fantastic. I run it through a Samsung HD tuner and roof antenna (for local broadcast HD). Residual heat from bulb after TV loses power shouldn't be a problem unless it happens everyday. Temperature may spike a little, but will cool soon enough. Same as a car radiator (it actually gets hotter once you turn the car off, the heats still there, the cooling fan isn't). One question I would like to ask everyone. Is your TV in a cabinet or wall unit where circulation is a problem? Mine is out in the open and I have a ceiling fan overhead, on at all times. After reading all these posts, I'm scared sh-tless. I paid big bucks back in Jan 2004. If you didn't take out the extended warranty, and paid with a credit card, most CC companies double the warranty on a product you buy up to 2 years. Call your CC company to make sure. |
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New member Username: TongluPost Number: 1 Registered: Sep-04 | We have an HLP5063. 87 days old. About 3 weeks ago, it had two tries before it turned itself on. Now it is having the three start up tries then the three blinking lights problem. I am now have it unpluged and waiting. I have 3 days to add extend warranty to it, which I will do. A co-worker of mine got HLP 61", about 2 months old, he had the same problem. He already arranged it to be serviced. |
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New member Username: TongluPost Number: 2 Registered: Sep-04 | Called Samsung this morning and the lady just said she needs to set a service request for me to replace the bulb. I told her that I need to check with the seller before I do it. Went back to the seller, bought extended warranty for 3 extra years. The sale guy said that they have heard about the problem and I need to contact the local service contractor. I just called one local service company which does service job for Samsung. The guy answered the phone said they got phone calls about it pretty often, and they will need to change the bulb and ballast at the same time and the problem should go away after that. They will bill Samsung for the service. I asked about parts that manufactured in different countries... The guy said that they don't know about the reason. But he said the problematic bulbs and ballasts are Toshiba, and they will replace them by parts from Philips. |
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cmh Unregistered guest | I am a victim of the three lights of death too. In less than 90 days my engine isnt running. Part is on back order for 3 weeks. No return call from customer service at Samsung. I hope Sears will do the right for me |
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D & F Unregistered guest | How would you know if the engine is not running? I would like to know for future reference in case this problem should arise after I just had the lamp & ballast replaced. |
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JRSTREN Unregistered guest | Any idea if Samsung has fixed this "engine problem" at the source, or if TV's manufactured today will still require the servicing discussed in this thread? Anyone know? I'm thinking of picking up a 46" HLP version, but not if Samsung is perpetuating this problem at the manufacturing plant. |
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rpoint16 Unregistered guest | I just picked up a HLP 4663 W last week. I did alot of research & seemed to be a good choice... but just now stumbled on to this website. I got it at Ultimate Electronics w/ the extended warrenty (5 years. I dunno. Are these problems inherient in all DLP's or just Samsung? Any other feedback on other DLP models or brands? |
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disappointed Unregistered guest | I have tried to read all the posts regarding the samsung dlp to see if others are having the same issues I am. Circuit City is bringing me a new tv tomorrow due to the following: 1. green color problem 2. color wheel is noisy 3. fan is noisy 4. voice/picture sync problem Is anyone else having these issues? We are curious to see what model number they bring out. We have the HLN507wx. Anyone know what the x stands for? I can't find it anywhere! We are sorely disappointed in Samsung right now. |
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