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New member Username: Bert_coppensPost Number: 3 Registered: Jun-05 | sorry of this is brought up before. But Witch of these do you prefer for home cinema? Right now I'm eyeng on Yamaha ir Piuoneer. but I hear some people say it doesn't sound warm enough and sometimes a bit metallic. Here I seam to read most people seem to prefer Denon? I also read Watts doesn't have to do much with the quality. Than what does? Or do you really have to hear ot first to really know wich is best. I'm also eyeng on full size speakers because I'm afraid such small speakers don't gaive the same quality as full size. But problem is that most satelitte systems only have small speakers. probebly because 5 full size would be too expensive. Much people also recommend that your speakers should be all identically the same because it could otherwise be too hard to make the balans on all 5 or 7 speakers. In de store I saw some sets you could buy but cetre speakers, 2 front, 2 back and subwoofer were all from another product dealer and some sets even have 2 high end front speakers and 2 small back speakers. Is this really something to advise against? |
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Silver Member Username: DmwileyPost Number: 918 Registered: Feb-05 | Need a translator here. |
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Bronze Member Username: RsxmanPost Number: 25 Registered: Jul-05 | lol Yes this is greek to me |
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New member Username: VexholdPost Number: 6 Registered: Jul-05 | What a speaker should have: To be called a speaker, the thingy you're playing music and movies out of needs have at least one tweeter and one woofer. Such a thing as a "single driver speaker" isn't really a speaker at all, but just a woofer. This is exactly the kind of "speaker" that was used in the public address system in high school - cheap and inaudible. To be clear and audible a speaker needs to have a place to send the low, or "bass" sounds - the woofer - and at least one separate place to send the high sounds - the tweeter. Some speakers have a tweeter, a midrange and a woofer. These are called 3-Way, and generally sound clearer than 2-Way (there are other factors of course, and many 2-Way speakers blow away other 3-Way speakers). Some speakers have many tweeters, midranges and woofers that divide up the sound 6 or more ways. These are called very, very expensive. Speakercraft recently came out with a 10-Way speaker that is $4000 a pair. I would love to have a pair of them too. Recommended minimum specs for a really good speaker: Range - It's the low end you want to pay attention to. A good speaker will be less than 45hz on the low end. 45hz is the typical low end of human hearing. That is if you didn't attend too many Pink Floyd concerts. Below 45hz is good because not only are you hearing the sound, you're feeling it too. In order to get sounds this low, the woofer has to be 6.5" or larger. 5.25" speakers are usually 50hz or greater on the low end, and that's ok if you're just using the speaker for background music. For surround sound, an 8in speaker with a low end in the 35hz range is a good idea. On the high end, most speakers far exceed human hearing at 20,000hz or greater. Sensitivity - 89db or greater. This is a complicated spec which has to do with how clear the speaker sounds. Below 89db and you're listening to mud. Measurements should be in 1watt/1meter. Crossover - 12db or greater. When the signal comes into the speaker from the wire, it has to be divided up between the tweeter and woofer (and midrange too in a 3-Way). This is done with the crossover. When the sound is divided there is always some loss. A crossover of 12db or greater loses only an imperceptible amount of sound. Power - 40 watts or greater measured in RMS. Power is probably the most misunderstood and misapplied speaker specification. Power is simply volume, how loud the speaker can go, and has nothing to do with how well it sounds at any volume. Power is measured in two ways: RMS and Peak. RMS is the amount of power a speaker can handle without distorting. Peak is the amount of power a speaker can handle without breaking. Many sellers brag about 200watts of power in their speakers. Often this is a measurement of peak power. And likely, if you ever used more than about 60watts of power, you'd have some very irate neighbors. The speaker market breaks down into three main product levels. Speakers are sized, and for the most part, classified by their woofers. Regardless of the sensitivity, tweeter construction, power, crossover or any other specification, speakers are marketed based almost exclusively on their woofers. That's why its important to pay attention to what you're buying. Woofers may handle the most important sounds, but if a speaker lacks good range (greater than 45hz), strong sensitivity (less than 89db), a good crossover (less than 12db), and power (less than 40watts) its going to sound, simply stated, like crap Woofer Material Details Qualities Price Ranges Polypropelene About 80% of all speakers A little skimpy on the bass (Least Expensive $50-$200) Exotic Materials Includes Kevlar, Aluminum, and Fiberglass among others All have stronger bass end (Moderately Priced $150-$400) Audiophile Exotic materials + extras. Defined as a speaker that is accurate to a listener with perfect pitch The best sound reproduction and presence (Most Expensive $400+) Hope this helps |
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New member Username: Bert_coppensPost Number: 4 Registered: Jun-05 | thanks vexhold. Helps a lot more then people being picky on people's spelling mistakes and not helping at all (not respecting newbies). |
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Silver Member Username: DmwileyPost Number: 923 Registered: Feb-05 | I can assure you it is not just the spelling errors that made the post virtually unintelligible. But clearly, they didn't help. Glad you got what you needed Bertio. |
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New member Username: Bert_coppensPost Number: 5 Registered: Jun-05 | I took a look around on the internet. speakers with a shorter range than 45 Hz are very rare and expensive. Are between 50 and 100.000 Hz. Also most speakers don't run up higher than 89db with just a few 91db. I also don't see the crossover listed in the featere list. I also read that the power (Watts)of your receiver should be higher than than your speakers. Most receivers are not more then 180 Watts per speaker while most good subwoofers are 200 Watts and more. Or does does it only mean you shouldn't turn your volume and power higher than what your receiver could give to your speakers? Hope you understand now what I mean. |
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New member Username: VexholdPost Number: 7 Registered: Jul-05 | What I gave were high end guidlines.. they are not exacts on what you HAVE TO HAVE.. but stay close to them.. As for the Watts... Reciever watts is how much it can pump out per channel... Speaker watts is how much it can handle before sounding like crap (or blowing out) So if yer speaker watts is 100 and yer reciever is 200... you cant utilize the full wattage of yer reciever on those speakers.. only half of it. That answer yer ?'s |
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New member Username: Bert_coppensPost Number: 8 Registered: Jun-05 | thanks again. I already knew what you said. But I was just wondering if a speaker with more power than then what the receiver can give to the speaker, might damage the tweeter. As I heard that buying every difrent speaker or side speakers from another product might bring some dificulty in the balans I thought it was best to buy one satellite system from the same product. Now I'm aiming at the S-V80A as I said in the other tread about the Yamaha RX-V2500. it is still very expensive but I hope it might get more affortable next year. http://www.pioneer-eur.com/eur/product_detail.jsp?product_id=9651&taxonomy_id=42 -99 you think these might be good speakers for home theater? At least I'm convinced with the subwoofer. |
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Stuart Cunningham Unregistered guest | Thank you so much DirecTV Installer Guy, reading your help saved me from spending loads on speakers that were expensive but crap... basically would have been paying for the 'name'! Thank you again! |