Archive through September 12, 2009
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 177 Registered: May-07 | Brian, I have no idea of which "crystal" you're speaking of. I do know that without an in depth knowledge of this piece equipment and its internal workings, you will be more than hard pressed to repair it. As I have reiterated numerous times in the past, the LS18,28,38 and 45 systems are not candidates for the DIY minded. Bite the bullet, pack up the console and the sub and let Bose repair it for a flat rate of $165.00. They will also upgrade the software to the current version at the same time and warranty their work. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 178 Registered: May-07 | Edgardo, The humming from your AM10 could be either from the AM10 itself or the receiver driving it. A couple of questions, does the hum get louder with an increase of volume? Have you tried removing all channels and then trying one channel at a time to try and isolate the problem? If the hum occurs intermittantly and is not affected at all by the volume level then chances are the problem lies in the power supply of the AM10. It the hum is affected by volume then you may be dealing with a ground reference issue between the sub and the receiver. Do some trouble shooting along these lines and then report back. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 179 Registered: May-07 | Owen, You are definitely dealing with "apples and oranges" There is a world of difference between an AM9P and a PS28 sub which was designed for use with the AV28 console you are using. I honestly don't know if the AV28 will work properly with the AM9P or not. I do know you will have to create your own custom cable as the cables you currently have will definitely NOT work. Email me and I will get the necessary documentation to you so you can at least attempt to get the pair functional. My only question would be whether or not the speaker data sent by the AV28 will be compatible with the AM9P's processor. Go to my profile and email me and I will get this stuff out to you. Mark B. |
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New member Username: BbowenPost Number: 3 Registered: Mar-09 | Thanks to a little help from Mark Burgess (who else) I was able to figure out that legacy acustimas 9 modules will work with newer AV 28 Control head. You just need to enter the system setup menu for the AV 28 and change the Zone 1 protocal on screen 3 of 3 to legacy instead of normal. Thanks again Mark. |
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New member Username: RajmPort-louisMauritius Post Number: 3 Registered: Apr-09 | Hi Mark, I am back again for another issue that need lights from you .You do know i have the lifestyle 12 ,so far i have not been able to get the best digital sound from my bluray ps3,. I have had to connect the rca plug red/white to the fixed input of the bose console. The sound coming out is good,and surround also. How can i enjoy better sound through same system,I have heard about HD FURY 2. Do you believe it can provide the solution. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 180 Registered: May-07 | Raj, Nope! The Fury2 deals mostly with the video aspects of HD TV. The sound portion will just be routed through and is in digital format. The Lifestyle 12 just isn't equipped to decode and output digital information. Your BluRay PS3 can pass Dolby digital, THX, DTS etc. but they are all digital formats and need something at the other end to decode and process the signals. Sorry for the disappointing news. Mark B. |
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New member Username: Chris_johnsonPost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-09 | hello all, i have a powered acoustimass 5 series ii (with dual port- one 8 inch woffer)with no sound coming from it or the cubes. i checked the fuse inside and it looks great. i did notice that when i plug it in, a clicking sound comes from a relay. hope we can fix it. thank you, chris |
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New member Username: RajmPort-louisMauritius Post Number: 4 Registered: Apr-09 | Hi Mark, Thanks as always for the prompt and valuable advice.Basically i need to connect my ps3 output to any hdmi input. Bose is selling a system v30 that you can fit with any equipment-dvd/bluray/projector etc to enjoy the best sound-would you go for it or for another system to connect my ps3 for best video/sound. As the ps3 already decode THX also,i do not necessarily need a thx certified system,pl confirm how to get the best regards raj |
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New member Username: SpunnoosePost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-09 | I repaired the display problem by changing the 33uF capacitor. Some of the buttons on the unit are not working (lower row to be precise). Any idea why this has happened? I can access every function through the remote !! Mark could you send me the schematic for Lifestyle 12/ 5 ( i beleive they are the same) headunit? Email s.punnoose@btinternet.com |
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New member Username: MagicalmassagePost Number: 1 Registered: Apr-09 | I have Lifestyle 12 and all of a sudden there is no volume control, either with the remote or using the console controls. (I do have sound through the speakers - but it is a constant volume at the initial level.) Help!! Thank you so much! |
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New member Username: Tom2008Lexington, MA USA Post Number: 7 Registered: Dec-08 | Hi Mark, Thank you so much. I followed your instructions and have successfully opened my Lifestyle 20 console. CD stuck issue has been fixed. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 181 Registered: May-07 | Paul, Fisrt check is to plug in headphones and see if the volume is changing in them. Secondly I need to know whether we're dealing with a Lifestyle 12 series I or series II. Series II uses a CD5V2 and a AM25P II. If these are not what you have then no doubt it's a series one with a CD5V and an AM9P. If your volume is being controlled at the headphones then try using the variable output jacks on the CD5V? console and see if you get any change in volume through the sub. Do these checks first and let me know what the results were and we'll go from there. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 182 Registered: May-07 | Tom, Congrats on a good fix. Glad to hear you got that beast running again. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 183 Registered: May-07 | Raj, I don't know that I'm the best qualified to be recommending or condeming any systems. I would simply suggest that what ever route to go, make sure you are able to hear the system in a comparable environment, weigh that with your pocket book and make a decision based on cost/satisfaction ratios. I know, lotta help that was. It's the best I can do though, I just fix em, not qualified to critique them. 8^) Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 184 Registered: May-07 | Chris, I think I missed your post earlier too. You've got me scratching my head a bit since there are no relays in an AM5P II. Email me and I will send you some prints to help troubleshoot. Try to track down the sound you're hearing. Is it mechanical or are you hearing it in the speakers? Let me know. mr3dzpop@bellsouth.net Mark B. |
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New member Username: MagicalmassagePost Number: 2 Registered: Apr-09 | Hi, Mark Thanks so very much for your reply. If I had a tail, it would be between my legs I am so embarassed. A few days ago I plugged in headphones so my wife or I could watch tv while the other read or whatever. We then did not use the Bose for a few days but did use it a couple days ago and it worked fine through the speakers with volume control. Interestingly enough, I had forgotten that I had plugged in the headphones and they were still plugged in. Yesterday I had the problem described in the original post where the speakers were working but could not control the volume. After receiving your post tonite, I realized the headphones were plugged in. As soon as I removed the headphone jack, the system worked properly. If there had been no volume through the speakers, I (hope) would have immediately remembered the headphones. After removing the headphone jack, I cannot duplicate the situation in the original post. As soon as I plug it back in, the speakers were silent as expected.. ????? Anyway, my system is a Lifestyle 12 Series II just in case any of this is useful info for you or makes any sense to you. Thanks, again. Love that my Bose is back! Paul |
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New member Username: KrismanPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-07 | Hi Mark Follow your posts since 2007.awesome help for people like us. My problem is similar to Lynette's.I have a (US)LS 28 series 1 system.works fine on a 110v stepdown transformer except that i have to increase the volume to 55 on the media centre to get reasonable output from all 5 speakers(not loud). I would like the schema to convert the PS 28 power supply to work on 240v.Have constructed kit amplifiers and can do. AU bose not pocket friendly at all.appreciate your help regards krishna email kalpurath@gmail.com |
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New member Username: Tory0001Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-09 | Hello Mark., I saw you at the forum "ecoustics.com" for Bose repair. Right now I and my family moved to Saltillo, Mexico with my Bose (Lifestyle 30 V). It has been working very well here. Unfortunately, along the last week, the video signal dose not appear to my television. I guest that this problem should be occurred by the relay inside the consoled unit. I already contacted Bose at Monterray, Mexico (it is only one dealer which closes to my city) they would like to charge me around 250 + tax USD for initial. I think that I would like to do it by myself first. Could you please give me some circuit diagrams, service manual and theory of operation or anything which can help me to solve my problem! Thank you in advance. Best Regards., Terry Amerbrio Jose Vega., tory0001@live.com.mx |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 185 Registered: May-07 | Terry, OK, tall order here or maybe not. First of all I need to know what your using as inputs for the video and how you output to the TV. For example, are you using HDMI, Component Video (red,green,blue), S-Video or composite? The same question holds for the TV... how is it connected to your control center? Make sure you have your TV configured for the proper input. This will be done through your TV menu and will have nothing to do with the Bose unless you have the Bose remote setup to control your TV. Next question, have you tried using a different type of output/input from the Bose to the TV. Again for example; if you are using HDMI then try using the component video (component video output from Bose to component input on TV instead and see if you get picture. Do you have a user's guide for that V-class system. If not, let me know and I can email one to you. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 186 Registered: May-07 | Krishna, I've sent some information via email to you. It should help you. Let me know if you have any further questions. Mark B. |
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New member Username: Tory0001Post Number: 2 Registered: Apr-09 | Hello Mark., My TV has S-Video and Composite. I always connect with S-Video and it has work well. Until the last Monday, it did not have Video signal. But when I change to Composite, I can get Video signal on TV. My problem only occurs only S-Video. I already checked the connectors for both TV and Bose and my cable also. Everything looks OK. I think that it should be occurred because of the relay or some circuits inside the unit. Best Regards., Terry Amerbrio Jose Vega., tory0001@live.com.mx |
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New member Username: RajmPort-louisMauritius Post Number: 5 Registered: Apr-09 | HI mark, Iam back again with another problem with my plasma tv,which has several input inc video in,composite,s-video,and more important DVI input. I have tried to connect my bluray hdmi out to the DVI input of the plasma ,but no picture ,only blank screen. the dvi input has 24+4 pin,so i have bought a cable hdmi/dvi.with the 24+4pin,and even an adapter also,but in vain I have contacted the supplier in Malaysia who told me it may be a problem of dhcp,kindly help . regards raj |
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New member Username: Chris_johnsonPost Number: 2 Registered: Apr-09 | Hello, all. I would like to thank Mark Burgess for his emails and tech support. I have a couple of question for all. I would like to know if it is possible to limit the acousitmass bass module 10 II to certain frequencies. I want to add this bass unit to a pair of 301 V speakers controled by 5v media center and SA-3 amp. I will be using the bass on B and the amp on A . Meaning I am not going to attach the 301's to the 10 bass. My eend to the 301's in a smooth blend without running in to phase problems. Ofcourse, I am open to other suggestions or what works for others when using 301's. Another question I have is why Bose chose to switch from using one 8 inch woofer in the AM5P series II to a two 5.25 inch speakers the next series. Is there something that the two speaker adds that the 8 inch could not do? Also, what is the main difference between the AMP20 (2 channel)and the AMP5 series IV or series III? Thanks, Chris ....BTW Mark -- Anthony is my middle name ;);)) sorry for the confusion |
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New member Username: DreufPost Number: 1 Registered: May-09 | Hi there. Mark, I really hope you get well paid by Bose for this support.  I have a Lifestyle 5 mediacenter and a acoustimass speaker system, and want to change to a Lifestyle AV18 mediacenter. The problem is that the cabel from the Lifestyle 5 to the subwoofer is different from the Lifestyle AV18 cabel. I need a DIN connector in the subwoofer and a mini-DIN connector on the AV 18 mediacenter. Do you know if Bose has one cabel like this, or if you have some schematics so I can build my own cabel? My email is: dreuf_1@hotmail.com Thanks in advance. BR Marius P.S: Sorry for my english... I'm from Norway |
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New member Username: Fractured_brainsPost Number: 1 Registered: May-09 | Hello I have an acoustimass 5 mediacenter and 99% of it works brilliantly... just one nagging problem! the display doesn't light up anymore, so i have to guess at whats goin on! I'm decent with electronics and feel compitent enough to fix it myself.. but i need to know if it's fixable without goin through hell to fix! And also if I can even get the parts!! thank you!!!!! Brian |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 187 Registered: May-07 | Marius, Yes Bose does make a cable that would interface the AV18 to your subwoofer. It of course depends on which subwoofer you have as to which cable you need. Remember also you will have to use the "Legacy" settings for the AV18 to provide the appropriate signals for the sub. I would suggest that you go online to Bose customer support and they should be able to get the cable information for you. Make sure you have model and serial numbers handy. And no, Bose has no idea I do this nor do I make a dime for any of this on the forum. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 188 Registered: May-07 | Brian, All you need to do is to peruse back through this forum for that answer. I've posted this answer many times. It's an easy fix and will require only one capacitor. I don't know the model of your CD5 so look through these postings for your model and its respective cap culprit. Mark B. |
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New member Username: Fractured_brainsPost Number: 2 Registered: May-09 | Mark, right on!!! i will do just that!! i sorta figured it was a common problem. thank you for pointing me in the right direction. and moreover thank you for helping everyone with this forum!! Brian |
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New member Username: Tory0001Post Number: 3 Registered: Apr-09 | Hi Mark It's me again. Could you please give me the service manual for Lifestyle 30 V or similar model? My problem is still held ..! Best Terry tory0001@live.com.mx |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 189 Registered: May-07 | Terry, I have emailed the V20/V30 service manual to you. Starting on page 41 there is a detailed procedure for testing all inputs and outputs. Make sure you also test the S-Video input on your television by directly connecting an S-Video source, bypassing the V30 console. The V30 converts any type video input to all types of video outputs. I understand that your television only has composite and S-Video inputs but you may also check the component video output by connecting the green component output to the composite input on your television. Yes the picture will be green but it verifies that the component conversion is functional. If you are still lacking S-Video then I would have to conclude that the problem lies within the V30 console, most likely the luminance connection at the S-Video jack. There are no relays to contend with, everything is done electronically. Mark B. |
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New member Username: Pauly_kPost Number: 1 Registered: May-09 | Hey Mark My lifestyle 20 is hissing at me and I hope you can point me the right direction. I bought the lifestyle 20 music centre on ebay and separately bought the powered am5 speaker system about 11 months ago, both worked without problem for 9 months. About a month or so ago it started making popping sounds regardless of input for no reason I can think of. Then I moved house a month ago, only next door, and personally and gently carried both units, and the bose started hissing a day or so later. It is basically a static white noise and has recently started sounding a bit buzzy as well, gahhhh!! Changing the volume doesn't nmake any difference to the level of the hissing, and I have swapped the power cable to the bass module as well as checking that the signal and power are separate. Any advice as to what it could be are greatly appreciated. Pauly |
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New member Username: Pauly_kPost Number: 2 Registered: May-09 | Hey Mark, just thought I'd add a couple more details. The hissing comes from both left and right channels in equal measure, swapping them makes no difference. Changing music source makes no difference. Interestingly when switching the unit off, the music stops instantly but the hissing remains for a second or two at a slightly lower level (or is it just my imagination?) before going silent. Pauly |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 190 Registered: May-07 | Paul, Your problem will lie in the power supply of the subwoofer. No doubt you have some failed filter capacitors and more than likely they are in the +20 or +40 volt supplies since you say that volume level has no effect on the noise level. These power supplies are in the amp module of the AM5P subwoofer. Check all of the 4700ufd Caps for leakage and/or for failure. Mark B. |
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New member Username: Tory0001Post Number: 4 Registered: Apr-09 | Hi Mark., First of all, thank you very much for the service manual. You are quite right Mark. It doesn't have any mechanical relay. I have some experience with Bose-321. It has relies (K5000-1) with S-video and composite. After ran the video pattern test, only S-Video at Bose has no-signal (I already confirmed with oscilloscope) both before and after the connector on the PCB board. Dear Mark, can I have the circuit diagrams of LS-30V or similar! Surely, I would like to buy my new TV with HDMI but I think that it should be better if I can solve this problem. Big thanks in advance. Best., T. |
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New member Username: Pauly_kPost Number: 3 Registered: May-09 | Big thanks Mark, it will most likely be going to a repair shop but I will post again once fixed (let's hope it is a simple capacitor replacement) for others in similar predicament. Cheers Pauly |
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New member Username: Azzwang_miPost Number: 1 Registered: May-09 | Hi Mark. I moved my bass module away while I was putting down my new floor. Making this story short, after I assembled my speakers and bass module back again and tested to check, I can hear all the cube speakers working but no bass sound coming out from my bass module. I tested the power on/off I didnt hear any "thump" when you turn it on. The cube speakers has sounds so I'm not sure if these are pass through or there is something wrong with the bass only. your help is highly appreciated. regards. |
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New member Username: Azzwang_miPost Number: 2 Registered: May-09 | Forgot, I have an AM15 bass module. Any help is appreciated. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 191 Registered: May-07 | Noel, First you need to gain access to the insides of the sub. If you don't know how, I've posted that info in the archives for this forum more than once I believe. Once inside, check the fuse, if it's good then check R98, it's a small chip resistor with "101" printed on it. It should measure 100 ohms resistance. It's located on the component side of the main PC board, middle left hand side as you face the input/outputs of the board. One of these two components will no doubt be the problem... unless you forgot to turn the switch on. 8^) Mark B. |
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New member Username: Craig200575Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-09 | Hi Mark, I have a Lifestyle 18 (AV18) series 1 which I'm trying to pair with a PS28 subwoofer of a similar vintage but it is not the original sub. I'm getting no sound from the system and have a couple of signs that things aren't right. On the media center when pressing enter+store the center shows no bass box software and the bass box subwoofer serial comes up as a row of XXXXXXX. On the sub itself, when turning on, the yellow LED flashes once and then stays on constantly. I have no way of verifying that the bass box works, because it was bought 2nd hand. BOSE Aust. sent me some updated software for the console however this hasn't changed the problem. Could you offer some advice please? With thanks Craig H. |
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New member Username: Pauly_kPost Number: 4 Registered: May-09 | Hi Mark I have a reply from a reputable repair shop with some details about the am5 hissing problem and the quote, does it look to you like a fair enough amount? Or should I go to a cheap repair guy a friend knows who does things on the cheap? "Both the console and the Subwoofer need work. The loading Mechanism in the Console is weak and will fail soon. The subwoofer needs two Volume IC's replaced plus passive components. All up your looking at AUD$439 (US$350) to complete the work." Thanks mate Pauly |
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New member Username: BrentmcStafford , Va Usa Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-09 | I have a Lifestyle 5 unit with a Bose Lifestyle 9 subwoofer. My center speaker and left front speakers work-- but none of the other speakers work in any mode. Any idea what could cause this? I have checked and rechecked the wires. I can get the inop speakers to work if I plug them into the center or left front speaker jacks on the sub...this tells me that the wiring and speakers are okay...but that maybe the system is simply not putting out a signal to the other speaker jacks... Any ideas? Would this be a sub problem or a console problem? Thanks a million, Brent |
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New member Username: RpmsandersPost Number: 4 Registered: Dec-08 | Hi Mark, Previously I wrote regarding a hum from an AM10 system and you suggested the reply below. I've tried absolutely everything including having no inputs plugged in at all and still no success. Is there anything else you can suggest? Is it possible to just plug the satellite speakers directly into the RXV1800, or would they be overpowered? Thanks again for your time, Regards Mark Sanders Mark, I'm betting the sub you have is an AM10 and not an AC10. The AM10 series was developed for use with an external powered system. Speaker wires from the RXV1800 to the AM10 and then the AM10 outputs to the AM10 satellite speakers. Have you tried powering up the AM10 with only one set of speaker wires attached and then removing it? There is the possiblilty that the hum is originating in the Yamaha and not the AM10. No doubt what you are hearing is 60 cycle hum. This is generally associated with either a power supply filtering problem or a intermittant ground. Try hooking only one speaker wire set at a time to the AM10 sub. Let me know what you find. Mark B. |
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New member Username: GeordiebEngland Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-09 | Hi Mark, Have just found this great resource, I bought a lifestyle 35 from Pinnacle sounds in 2004. I live in UK and have replaced the US power adaptor for a UK one for the media centre and am using the supplied converter for the subwoofer. Everything was working fine but the last time I turned it on there was no sound and the settings page indicated 'no speakers connected'. I have tried disconnecting an reconnecting all of the cables but still cannot get any sound. There is power getting to the subwoofer as the LEDs are lit. Do you have any idea what it could be? Also like a previous post when it was working I had to have the volume way up to 55 just to hear any sound, is this normal. thanks in advance. Wayne |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 192 Registered: May-07 | Wayne, Go to the "Media Center" in the menu and select "Restore Settings". If everything is OK with the system then this should get you back to ground zero with the factory defaults. If not then the Lifestyle 35 is due for a visit to the doctor. There are no easy fixes for the DVD systems. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 193 Registered: May-07 | Mark, If you're still experiencing hum from that AM10 with nothing connected then you have a power supply filter problem. No doubt there is a cap that has either failed or broken loose from the PC board. There are 5 suspects on the power supply board; C1,C2,C825,C824 and C826. Check these for connection integrity and if that's OK then they need to be checked for capacitance. I'm betting if one is bad it will be obvious. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 194 Registered: May-07 | Brent, First thing to do is to swap the right and left outputs at the console and see if the right side and center work only. If this is the case then the problem is with the console or the cable from the console to the sub. Secondly, try pressing and holding the 3-speaker mode or 5-speaker mode button on your remote for 10 seconds without releasing the button. This will reset the speaker settings in the sub to factory default and you can go from there. Let me know what happens. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 195 Registered: May-07 | Paul, Sounds like a lot of money to me but then I haven't been in this business for some time now. I know Bose Australia is high priced based on some other quotes people have shared with me. I wouldn't know of anywhere else to send you and at least you know you're getting Bose parts and that they have the documentation (schematics) necessary to do the job. I guess if it were me I'd bite the bullet. They should offer a warranty with that repair too. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 196 Registered: May-07 | Craig, Sorry to be so late with this but I've been away. Here is an excerpt from the trouble shooting guide. The amber and green LEDs on the DSP board serve to provide a wealth of information about the status and operation of the DSP board. The following is a summary of the various possible states of the LEDs and a functional description of the state(s) represented. • Green LED: The green LED serves a dual purpose: general system health and serial data received. The green LED will blink once per second with a 50% duty cycle (i.e. on for ½ second, off for ½ second) if the system booted and is running normally. If the unit is in the SmartSpeaker "Off" condition, the green LED will blink briefly (approx. 0.1s ON time) once every 5 seconds. • The green LED will also toggle whenever a serial data byte is received. This will interrupt the normal 1 second blink rate. The green LED blinking faster than 1 Hz usually indicates that it is receiving serial communications. • Amber LED: The amber LED serves to signal 3 conditions: power applied/boot status, S/PDIF status and clipping status. When power is first applied the amber LED will light briefly. If the PROM FLASH checksum is incorrect or hardware does not pass power-on self test, the green LED and amber LED will alternately blink at approximately a 5 Hz rate. If the green LED is blinking at its normal, 1 Hz rate, a blinking, 1Hz amber light indicates that there is no valid S/PDIF signal present: If the amber LED is off while the green LED is blinking normally, then valid S/PDIF is present and being received. As you can see there is no condition where the amber LED stays on continuously. I would say you have very corrupted information in the sub software or both the sub and the console. If you were stateside then Bose would repair and update both for $165.00. I have no idea what Bose Australia would charge. Might be worth the money because I don't know that I could be of any further service. This is going to take a complete update disc and the where-with-all to accomplish the update successfully. |
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New member Username: RpmsandersPost Number: 5 Registered: Dec-08 | Hi Mark, Thanks for that. That make lots of sense, I actually had the sub packed in a suitcase on a trip back from LA to Australia and though it was very well padded it was subject to the usual airline care. It does seem like a loose something as the problem is not consistent, sometimes it fine for days and then during some movies it gets so bad I have to turn it off, and a gentle tap will often stop the hum. How do I access the power supply board and should I just be looking for a loose wire/connection? Thanks again for your help. I was concerned that maybe it was something to do with the different voltages and I had read on some sites about earthing problems and other interferences. And after thinking I'd saved money bring it back I was hoping I hadn't made a mistake, Cheers Mark |
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New member Username: Trunkluvr1Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-09 | I have the lifestyle 12 system with the am9 speakers and sub. The original power adapter for the control unit was misplaced and a friend of mine plugged in one from a printer or something, needless to say he didn't look at the voltage on either plug nor the unit. So smoke coming out of the unit was the result of his stupidity and my lesson to not loan my things to anyone. So now can I use my Yamaha dsp-a1000 to run the am9 speaker system because I noticed in a previous post you stated something about putting the unit in test mode but not being able to control the surround or center speaker levels when not using the bose control unit due to not having the data signal to the am9 woofer. So what can I do here, use the yamaha amp or if not where can I get the schematic for the bose head unit console. Any help would be great and thanks in advance. |
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New member Username: BentonePost Number: 1 Registered: Jun-09 | Hi Mark I hope you may help me with my Bose lifestyle 20 system? It has suffered from an undervoltage problem after our mains voltage dropped from 240 to 120 volts. I have removed the cover off the acoustmass and carried out the obvious like the fuse, tested the 101 resistor (ok) and now looking for the 10 volt turn on signal from the head unit. The Din plug has 5 pins and i am not reading any AC or DC voltages. Can you help me with where to go next please?My email adress is jeff.benton@xtra.co.nz. Thansk you in advance Mark. Regards Jeff |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 197 Registered: May-07 | Jason, I have sent you a private email regarding your situation. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 198 Registered: May-07 | Jeff, you got your stuff by email and Mark, I just sent you an email with the particulars about your problem. Mark B. |
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New member Username: Pauly_kPost Number: 5 Registered: May-09 | Hi Mark, just an update on the buzzing am5. After three weeks it was 'fixed' but when I hooked it up at home it was as if nothing had changed. The repair place said they would have been able to replicate the buzzing and would have tested it before handing it back so what the hell? Is it possible I have dodgy power which blows up my amp every time I turn it on? (aussie voltage) Best pauly |
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New member Username: ShubhastuPost Number: 3 Registered: Jul-09 | Hi Mark, Can you please reply to my new post for bose acoustimass 2683 subwoofer as u seem to have all the resources needed for it. Thanks in advance, Rahul |
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New member Username: Chris_johnsonPost Number: 3 Registered: Apr-09 | Hello Mark, I received another AMP5II hoping it would work but, does not. If I attach it to a fixed output you can hear sound fine....and all speakers work....very loud though. I don't have the info (schematics) you gave me a little while back...thought I would never use it....silly me. Thanks, Chris |
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New member Username: ShubhastuPost Number: 5 Registered: Jul-09 | Hey guys, I am just wondering if anyone is having a service manual or schematic for acoustimass 2683-1 as Mark has not logged in since 29th June. I would really appreciate if anyone having this or even a nearby model service manual can give me atleast a schematic for the amp protection circuitry so that I would be able to trace the fault. Cheers, Rahul |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 199 Registered: May-07 | Rahul, I will have to copy and convert the schematic to a pdf. since it is one of the few Bose never committed to and electronic file. Send me your email address and I will get the print(s) to you as quickly as possible. Mark B. |
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New member Username: ShubhastuPost Number: 6 Registered: Jul-09 | Lots of Thanks Mark, I have tasted every component on the board and everything is fine. Also, replaced most of the ICs without any luck. I would greatly appreciate if you can send the copies to me on shubhastu@yahoo.com.au Thanks again, Rahul |
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New member Username: ReekinhavocJonesboro, AR United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-09 | Mark, I have a Lifestyle 12 with AM9P subwoofer. Originally the first AM9 worked well until i unhooked the speakers to mount a 65" plasma. I believe the console was on. When I hooked them back up ...no sound! Bought another AM9P off ebay and it partially solved the problem. The left front and sub worked but no center, right or surround sound worked. Curiously in a previous configuration this would happen when the right speaker cable (which may have had a short) would get twisted. Fiddling with the cable fixed this usually. We had a small dog that liked to use the behind TV route and would kink it up. However now the new one has quit working. I opened the first one and had a good fuse, Have not opened the second one. Could turning the unit on without all the speakers connected or unplugging a speaker with the sub and console on cause this problem. Would love to have the AM9P schematic sent to my email <reekinhavoc@sbcglobal.net>. And thanks for any help ...I have gone through many of your posts and am shocked at your knowledge and your willingness to impart it without recompense. You are truly a gentleman of the first order! Steve |
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New member Username: Rishan1Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-09 | Hi Mark, Looks like you're 'Guru' for the Bose systems, I have old model Lifestyle 5 Series III base module ( Subwoofer) it has a 5pin DIN connector and two speaker out connectors ( like RCA type) and I have Harman Kardon Receiver I need to connect only the Bose subwoofer to my receiver. ( I have connected Bose 301 speakers separately) I don't have any cable to connect and do you have any idea what could be the 5pin DIN cable connection? I could make a one for this. some article says 5pin DIN connection like this, 1= +12 volt don't need it 2= R- and L- 3= L+ 5= R but I need an expert advice on this. |
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New member Username: HultaLundSweden Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-09 | Hi Mark! And everybody else in this forum. I have a great problem. I hook up a Lifestyle 35 to a step-down converter @ 750W (both the console and the PS48). When I turned the power on it came i weird noise from the woofer and speakers. Then it came a little bit of smoke from the woofer. I took apart the module assy at it says on the label with part no: 256806-1319. On the big circuit board where there five places that it looked like melted clear plastic, almost like hardened glue on the round transistors and one thing was burnt that looked like a small fuse (little white component that is about 5mmX1,5mm that sits on its own on the board). Is it possible to buy only the circuit board from bose or do I need the complete module assy with part no: 256806-1319? Is it possible for me to get an module that is 240V instead of 120V from Bose that fits my PS48? My step-down transformer output is 110V and it says 120V on the bass module, does this make any difference? And at last if anyone knows what the price is for either a curcuit board, new module assy part no:256806-1319 120V / 240V or Service on the module from Bose? Thank you very much. Sinc. Kristoffer |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 200 Registered: May-07 | Rishan, The pinouts for the DIN connector are correct. The AM5PIII turns on and off via its power switch if no Bose console is connected. The Right and Left signals are on the pins indicated. If however a Bose console is connected then power control of the AM5PIII is facilitated by the console via the 10V turn on signal. In this mode the sub should be left always "ON" with respect to its power switch. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 201 Registered: May-07 | Kristoffer, Sent you a private email so I can get the correct files to you for that PS48. I need your email address. Mark B. |
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New member Username: Rishan1Post Number: 4 Registered: Aug-09 | Mark, Thank you for the reply. I should connect only pin 2.3.5 is that correct? Just to confirm BOSE has its own DIN pinout or its a standard connection as clockwise 3,5,2,4,1 you can mail me on rishan-r@live.com |
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New member Username: HultaLundSweden Post Number: 3 Registered: Aug-09 | Hi Mark! My email is hulta2@hotmail.com. The serial No on my PS48 is:029715922120044AS. The part number is wrote earlier was the number on the black part that you can take out when you open it. Thanks. |
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New member Username: Mav3rickPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-09 | hello mark, my LS18-II bass module has a continuous flashing amber light. base on your previous post the trobleshooting guide states that: "a blinking, 1Hz amber light indicates that there is no valid S/PDIF signal present". what maybe a possible cause of it? thank you in advance. |
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New member Username: MbcooperPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-09 | Hi Mark, Hopefully this isn't a repeat of my earlier message because I looked and couldn't find that it posted. I have two Lifestyle 12 Series 1 units. In the past 2 years we've had a problem where one of them has the volume goes all the way up to maximum and we can't turn it down. If we unplug the acoustimass unit for an extended period of time we can start it up again and use it normally for a little while, but eventually while playing or when initially starting up it goes back to the maximum volume. Since we have two systems, we also tried using it on the other one with the same results. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 202 Registered: May-07 | Rick, The most common cause for your symptom is the cable hookup. Turn every thing off, unplug the power from both the console and the sub and disconnect the "phone" cable from the subwoofer. Insert it and remove it several times to make sure the contacts are clean. Hook everything back up and then power on the sub then the console. The "SPDIF" referred to is Sony, Pioneer Digital Information Format. It is the digital sound signal plus other data sent to the sub and is decoded by the sub to produce the surround sound to your speakers and the sub section. If after trying the above you still have no valid "SPDIF" indication then I'm afraid that you may need to send the system to Bose. As I've mentioned many times before, that system is not a good DIY candidate. If you do chose to go the Bose route then make sure you send both the console and the sub since the problem could exist in either one. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 203 Registered: May-07 | Mike, I can only assume that the subwoofers you have are AM9P's. This is the sub listed for the Lifestyle 12 series I systems. Volume is controlled digitally with commands from the internal microprocessor. The processor gets its orders from the console and since you are having this happen with two different consoles the problem may be in your remote. You may have a stuck button on the remote that is sending the volume up signal constantly. Try removing the batteries from the remote, try the system and see if this cures the problem. If not then we'll do some further thinking. You've got a strange one I'll give you that. Mark B. |
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New member Username: MbcooperPost Number: 2 Registered: Aug-09 | Hi Mark. Thanks for the reply. I tried taking the batteries out the remote, but the system was still stuck in max volume. Trying to turn down the volume at the silver receiver unit did not do anything. You mentioned the "console". Do you consider the "console" the silver receiver or the Acoustimass subwoofer? The reason I ask is because, I think that the issue may be the Acoustimass unit. The reason I was thinking this was that my second system works fine, but if I take the Acoustimass unit from the system having the problems, then my second system starts having the volume problem. |
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New member Username: Mav3rickPost Number: 2 Registered: Aug-09 | Mark, Thank you very much for the suggestion. You're really a tech guru. What I did yesteday was,I brought the bass module and media center to a friend with a similar device and isolate the problem by swapping each, and everything works excellently. I brought it back home and still everything works. But today when I turn it on again..it work for a couple of minutes then I encountered the same problem again. I turn-off the media center (all-off) for maybe 5 minutes, turn it on again and it works again for a couple of minutes and the problem goes again. It is like the handshaking between the bass module and media center was interrupted for unknown reason, and unfortunately Bose don't have a Service Center here. Any idea? thanks again, Rick |
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New member Username: ColfernaPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-09 | Hi Mark, I have Lifestyle 25 Series II Subwoofer it has a 8pin DIN connector and five speaker out connectors RCA type. And i would like to connect this Bose sub in my technics receiver but i dont have the 8 pin cable. Thanks for youre advice. Josué Colon |
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Platinum Member Username: NuckPost Number: 13287 Registered: Dec-04 | Mark, you are still doing a bangup job here. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 204 Registered: May-07 | Rick, OK, you're going to have to do some further trouble-shooting with your friend's system. By the way, did you happen to be using YOUR interconnect cable when you were testing the two components? Also try trading subwoofers for a day. If you still have the problem then it's your console or cable and if your friend has the problem then it's your sub at fault. You might also try checking that cable from one end to the other to make it hasn't been compromised in some manner, like a cat or dog chewing on it??? Also try jiggling the cable at the sub end (and the console end) and see if you can cause the malady to be intermittent. All the above is to get us to the point where we KNOW for sure where the problem lies, as yet it is still a mystery. By the way, there is no handshaking going on, SPDIF is a one way street. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 205 Registered: May-07 | Mike, Yes the silver box is considered the "Console". You didn't mention if in fact you have AM9P's but since you didn't correct me then I will assume you do. Next question, when the volume goes to max does it go slowly or is it instantaneous, and do all the channels do this including the bass? Also, and I know sounds a bit crazy, have to tried smacking the sub to see if you may have a loose connection somewhere inside? I need these pieces of information to further scratch my head. It's still a weird problem! Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 206 Registered: May-07 | Josué, As you can see I figured out how make that "e" with the little thingy on top all by myself. 8^) On to your problem! You're going to need more than just a connector for that AM25P II to make it work with a non-Bose receiver. Email me with your email address and I will try to gather all the information you will need to do what you're trying to do. Mark B. |
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New member Username: MbcooperPost Number: 3 Registered: Aug-09 | Hello again. I have tried slapping the subwoofer around. I actually even took it apart the other day to check things on the boards and blew it out with air. As for the subwoofers being AM9P...how can I tell which kind I have? Last, the sound is instantaneous at max on all channels including bass. |
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New member Username: Bbb3inPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-09 | Hi, could you pl. let me know whether can we replace the LS12 media centre with that of LS28. then how to do that, are there any technical glitches. Thanks in advance. |
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New member Username: Jean26Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-09 | hi Mark Thanks for your job, it is very helpfull for us. I got a Lifestyle 12 series II in US (110V only) few years ago. Now I am retired in Europe (220V). It is easy to convert the Music Center to 220V (I have to change the AC power pack), but for the Acoustimass module what I have to do? Is it only a wire to move on the internal transformer or is it the complete board to change? Thanks in advance |
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New member Username: Mav3rickPost Number: 3 Registered: Aug-09 | Rick, OK, you're going to have to do some further trouble-shooting with your friend's system. By the way, did you happen to be using YOUR interconnect cable when you were testing the two components? Also try trading subwoofers for a day. If you still have the problem then it's your console or cable and if your friend has the problem then it's your sub at fault. You might also try checking that cable from one end to the other to make it hasn't been compromised in some manner, like a cat or dog chewing on it??? Also try jiggling the cable at the sub end (and the console end) and see if you can cause the malady to be intermittent. All the above is to get us to the point where we KNOW for sure where the problem lies, as yet it is still a mystery. By the way, there is no handshaking going on, SPDIF is a one way street. Mark B. hello mark, after a thorough troubleshooting (following your troubleshooting tips) with my friends system the problem is still there. try calling different electronic appliances sales and marketing offices here and luckily i found a contact for bose service center. this morning i brought my system there and hopefully they resolve the problem i will update again once done. again, thank you very much for the help. |
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New member Username: TwidgetPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-09 | Marc, I have a lifestyle 25 system with a CM20A control head and an AM25P series 1 sub. The CM powers up as normal and I can hear good audio with the headphones. No sound comes out of the SW or speakers. I checked the fuse in the SW and it was good and there were no noticeable burned components. I also checked the cable that comes from the CM looking for the 10VDC turn on voltage and could not find it on any of the pins. I was using the outside collar as the ground. Do you happen to have the scats on this system I would like to try to fix it myself before getting something new. It is 10 years old and not worth spending a lot of money on. The house got hit by lighting last night so it may be a lost cause. My email address is tom.tsmiley@gmail.com Thanks Tom |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 207 Registered: May-07 | Thomas, I've sent you everything you should need to troubleshoot that sub. The 10V turn on voltage should be on pin 1 (+10V) and pin 4 or 7, (ground). This mind you is at the sub end of the cable. If no turn on is present then let me know and I'll get the CD20 prints to you and what to look for. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 208 Registered: May-07 | Jean, It is really very simple to convert that sub. Get to the main PC board and in the area of the switch and power cord you will see three places for jumpers labeled Y300 which should already be installed, Y301 and Y302. The latter two jumper locations will be empty. Remove Y300 and install the other two and your sub is configured for 220VAC. Close it up and happy thumping. 8^) |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 209 Registered: May-07 | Bob, Yes you can use an AV28 console for that sub. Simplest way is to use Zone 2 out and configure your remote to handle zone 2. I believe you can also configure Zone 1 out for "Legacy" systems. Legacy subs like yours do not use the SPDIF audio information but instead use Right and Left audio signals to create surround sound features. You will of course have to have the proper cable to hook the console to the sub but I must assume you've already considered that. If you have any further questions just ask. (If you have an owner's manual for the AV28 all the above is in there.) |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 210 Registered: May-07 | Mike, Back to your problem. You can tell if they are AM9P's by reading the label. If it states Acoustimass 9 Powered speaker then.... I've thought of a scenario that may be your problem but with no easy fix. This involves the test 1,2 and 3 pins on the main PC board. These pins allow the AM9P to be configured for test purposes without having a console hooked up. One of these test modes is all amps full on and un-muted! Email me and I will get the prints and manual to you so you can check on this. |
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New member Username: ColfernaPost Number: 2 Registered: Aug-09 | Hi Mark i got Lifestyle 25 Series II Subwoofer it has a 8pin DIN connector trying to connect to a non bose receiver. arq_josue@hotmail.com |
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New member Username: Jean26Post Number: 2 Registered: Aug-09 | Hi Mark To convert 110AC to 220AC, my LS12 Acoustimass module I perform the following way. I see three places for jumpers labelled Y300 and Y301 which should already be installed (instead of y300 only in your post), and Y302. The latter jumper location is empty (instead of Y301 and Y302 in your post). I remove Y300 and Y301 and install the other Y302 and my sub was configured for 220VAC. It works fine. Thanks again for your help. |
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New member Username: MbcooperPost Number: 4 Registered: Aug-09 | Hi Mark. I just sent you an email to the bellsouth address. I hope that still works. |
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New member Username: Bbb3inPost Number: 2 Registered: Aug-09 | Mark, Thank you very much for the info. However I am still not clear on how to connect the LS12-Sub to the LS28 media centre. will it require separate cable - Bob |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 211 Registered: May-07 | Bob, I depends on which LS12 system you have. The LS12 series I uses an AM25P sub with an eight pin DIN connector and the AM25P series II uses a thirteen pin DIN. At the console end should be an nine pin mini-din. Determine which of the two sub you have (metal sticker on bottom of sub) and then contact Bose about which cable you will need. Making one up yourself would prove to be difficult and time consuming and ultimately would cost more than just ordering one from Bose. If you tell them which console you're using and which sub you're connecting it to they can look up the proper cable part number for you. I think I misspoke earlier when I suggested you use Zone 2 output, nix that... I was thinking CD20 and not AV28. Use the BoseLink output, nine pin DIN connector. It is designed to work with your AM25P series I or II without any fuss. Check your owners manual and installation guide for the AV28 for more on this. Mark B. Hope this helps. Mark B. |
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New member Username: Sammy09HAWAII USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-09 | Mark, Is the bose AM800P subwoofer 13 PIN connector same as with bose powered acoustimass 25 serries II which identically the same 13 PIN. If not could you please send the diagram 13PIN for the powered acoustimass 25 serries II. I will used for my lifestyle 5v2. Sam |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 212 Registered: May-07 | Sam, Yes, they are exactly the same. The AM25P series II, the AM8P and the AM800P are the same animal with the same electronics inside. Mark |
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New member Username: Sammy09HAWAII USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Aug-09 | Thanks Mark. Ps. Mark, what is the status on my order. The capacitor and transformer. Thanks! Sam |
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New member Username: Bbb3inPost Number: 3 Registered: Aug-09 | Hi Mark, thank you very much for the info. Regards, Bob |
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New member Username: AhinesDORAVILLE, GA Post Number: 1 Registered: Sep-09 | Hi Mark I am so glad to have found this site and ask questions to someone that can answer and not guess the answers. I am trying to hook up my bose sub am25 to my yamaha reciver and I've been reading some of the past post and and I have the same problem red and white rca's ,sub wire and 3.5 mm plug. can I get you to email me a copy of the schematics, the layouts and the the service manual to show me what I need to do and also can I use all the speakers with the system after I rewire it to work on the reciver and what can I use for the ground and and 10 volt power souce to turn on the sub. antonioandrose2000@yahoo.com |
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New member Username: JeffgoddPortland, OR Post Number: 1 Registered: Sep-09 | Mark, From all the posts I've read on this forum you are very helpful, and it appears the community here appreciates you. I have an old Bose Lifestyle system 5 I purchased new in 1994. Yes, it is old. I have used it for many years with a bad display, not bothering to fix it since my memories worked fine for FM and my other use was via Aux inputs. The other day it started making loud crackling noises from all speakers, like a bad connection. I thought it was the CD/Tuner module and tried bypassing it, but no, still noisy. But before I could get anywhere the wife unplugged everything and moved the unit to the basement. When I finally got around to checking it out, I have no sound at all. In my first wave of research I learned about the C17/C19 problem for the display, fixed it up with a much higher voltage cap, and have a nice receiver/CD player that works with a different amp setup. Also, my 20 foot cable is good and I get 10.79v on the ring to turn on the acoustimass module. I have disassembled the subwoofer - there is a single speaker inside. It is kind of a press board unit and the electronics are mounted with a heatsink with about 16 wood screws. Inside I discovered one fuse that seems fine, and a relay that toggles with the application of AC, whether or not the control DIN cable is connected. I hope that is enough information to point to a unit you know about. It would be nice if there is a common problem (like the display), or at least that this is a unit similar enough to the lifestyle 12 that you can point me in a direction to head. Thank you in advance for your help, JeffG jeff at zeepiphany.com |
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New member Username: SengusPost Number: 1 Registered: Sep-09 | Mark, I have a Bose lifestyle 12 series system, its 8 years old now. Iam planning to upgrade my hometheatre system, Is it possible to use the speaker and the subwoofer of bose with a new onkyo receiver. Thanks Anand |
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New member Username: Rdww60Post Number: 1 Registered: Sep-09 | Hi Mark, Yet someone else requesting your help... I have an AV28 Media Center which now fails to come on when power button is pushed. I pulled the covers off and poked around with a DVM, and it appears the 33V is being regulated down to various voltages inside, both on the board where the supply plugs in and down on the lower board where the processor and connectors for the various inputs and outputs are. The symptom is that the display doesn't light up and nothing happens. Given the suuply seems to be working and I have no schematic, I am running out of ideas. Do you have any input based on your experience? Thanks in advance, Brian (brian.page@testspectrum.com) |
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New member Username: ShubhastuPost Number: 7 Registered: Jul-09 | Hi Jeff, Yes u r right about Mark as he helps everyone in this forum. He has helped me as well for my old Lifestyle 5 system by providing the schematic. Unfortunately, I am preparing for one cert exam and do not have time to look into the issue right now. But, I think you are having the same system I have including the symptoms. I have fixed this issue with my system before. If I am not wrong then you subwoofer module should say model - 2683, it's a rectangular wooden box with big heatsink. Now, as you have opened the subwoofer unit you should be able to see that there is a light brown colour glue (gug-silicon type material) has been used to keep some delicate components in place. Try to see if it is turning dark brown, as over some period of time it turns conductive by changing into darker shade. This will actually short circuit the circuit board and also make some sparkings (even fire in very humid condition) as it starts absorbing atmosphere moisture. Fortunately Bose's protection circuit comes into play and shuts the system down. But, before going to this final stage it will give that crackling sound as the glue is on the way of becoming conductive. Please check if this is the case. You can use a multimeter to check if the glue has become conductive. If this is the case then you are in a big mess as this glue penetrates through the PCB and makes it difficult for getting rid of it completely. Anyway, before I scare u more check if the model is right and the glue has got conductive. I will tell you the best way to remove the glue then. All the best. Thanks to Mark Again. Cheers, Rahul |
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