Bi-wiring Query

 

New member
Username: Confuseddave

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jul-04
Hey there; I have a Denon AVR-1802, I'm currently using as a 3 speaker setup mainly for music; a pair of TDL Nucleus 2's and a Gale Centre 10.

My speakers are biwirable, and I've heard this can improve sound quality, and my Amp has twin outputs; so I'm thinking of trying and seeing the improvement. The only thing is I'm paranoid of blowing up my system (I'm a student and can't afford to replace it!) So my query is this; what does biwiring do to the Impedance of the speakers? The TDL's are rated at 6-8ohms; my amp reckons A or B at 6-16ohms per channel and A+B at 12-16ohms per channel.

Would biwiring the speakers give me 4 speakers at, like, 2ohms each, or do they stay at 6-8? If they split, is it even, or does the woofer have a different impedence to the tweeter? Would you recommend bi-wiring on both channels, just one channel, or not bothering?

Cheers for your thoughts.
 

Silver Member
Username: Soccer

Post Number: 236
Registered: Apr-04
Those impedance limitations on your amp are telling you not to bother biwiring, 'cause the design is not made for real biwiring, but rather adding 2 more speakers in series to the system.
Don't even try it.
 

Silver Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 889
Registered: Dec-03
dave the impedance will stay the same so their is
no fear of blowing your system.

the way impedance works on speakers is each individual
driver "woofer/midrange/tweeter" has it's own
impedance.

so say your speakers are rated at 8 ohms. now when
you play bass it goes to the woofer which is 8ohms
and when the music/amplification sends out treble
it goes to the tweeter which is 8 ohms and so on.

so when a speaker is rated at 8 ohms that means
when a given frequency is played it's load to the
amp is 8ohms.

you only change the impedance when more than 1 driver
plays the same frequencies.

take a 3way speaker, it has a crossover in it which
sends the bass to the woofer the midrange to the mid
and the treble to the tweeter.

all biwiring is doing is 1 pair of wires is going to the woofer crossover and the other one
goes to the mid/tweeter crossover.in a 2 way it's
woofer and tweeter.


now after all that it doesn't mean that biwiring
will definatly give you a benefit in sound. it may
so go ahead and try if you like.

 

Silver Member
Username: Soccer

Post Number: 244
Registered: Apr-04
Warn us when you blow teh amp
 

Silver Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 906
Registered: Dec-03
joao ferreira why do you say that?
 

Silver Member
Username: Soccer

Post Number: 251
Registered: Apr-04
Because they must have a reason to limit the impedance to 12-16 ohms per channel when using A + B lh and rh channels. When using either A OR B lh and rh channels, the minimum is 6-8 ohms. Funny, that's half the impedance of 12-18. To me, lh channels of A and B drivers are in series, when current is sensed on both drivers, same for rh channels. A real biwiring capability has ALWAYS biamping capabilities, meaning FOUR drivers are always available, to be used or not.
 

Silver Member
Username: Soccer

Post Number: 252
Registered: Apr-04
I may be wrong, but I wouldn't bet the amp on it.
 

Silver Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 910
Registered: Dec-03
joao ferreira i think you got it wrong.

in theory both sets aren't driven at the same time.

you will only have an 8ohm load on either channel at
1 time.

say a 20hz signal is played it will only go through
the woofer "8ohm load to the amp on 1 channel"

say a 20k signal is played it will only go through
the tweeter "8ohm load to the amp on 1 channel"

in theory that should be how it works.

but even if speakers didn't work like that "which they do"


if you had 4 speakers at 6 ohms that would still be 12
a side if it's in series anyway.

so i don't see the problem.
 

Silver Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 911
Registered: Dec-03
but you are right to question it.

and to be for sure he should probably contact the
manufacturer to see how the reciever is wired.

and get their awnser.to be positive.

 

Silver Member
Username: Soccer

Post Number: 254
Registered: Apr-04
Keeger, Dave wrote specifically 12-16 ohm PER channel when driving the 4 outputs...
But yes, he should contact the Manufacturer
Enjoy
 

Silver Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 916
Registered: Dec-03
how the heck could you have 12-16 per channel
and be in series.

that would be 24-36 total on each side.

that would also mean his speakers have to be 12-16 ohms each?

they probably mean you add the 2 speakers per "side"
together to get 12-16. as in 4 speakers would be
16ohms a side "if they were all 8 ohm speakers"

but like i said your not really using a+b because
you are biwiring.

you well get the frequencies below the crossover
point on 1. and above the crossover point on the
other.

technicaly
you are using a or b because neither will have 2
drivers at the same frequency.

 

Silver Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 917
Registered: Dec-03
woops!

"that would be 24-36 total on each side"

should have been 24-32 total on each side
 

ssphoto
Unregistered guest
Boooom!!!
 

New member
Username: Nobig423

Post Number: 3
Registered: Apr-04
I believe Dave is asking about bi-wiring, not bi-amping. In bi-wiring, both sets of wires would originate from the A speaker outputs of the Denon. They would separately terminate at the speaker on the tweeter and woofer posts respectively. If you mean bi-amping, that is a completely different matter.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 1188
Registered: Dec-03
regardless of how you do it the impedance will stay the same.

anyone who disagrees should read up on how speakers work.

as i said earlier if you don't send more than 1 driver
the same frequency the impedance will not change.
thats what xovers are for!
thats what they do.
whether you biwire or not.
 

Anonymous
 
Bi Wiring is probably not worth the effort anyway. If you have passive crossovers what possible good can it do (apart from do away with the crappy bit of steel connecting the terminals) You can get the same results by running a decent piece of wire between the binding posts.
Bi wiring is just a cheap imatation of bi amping.
Don't bother it's not worth the effort!
 

Silver Member
Username: Rick_b

New york Usa

Post Number: 392
Registered: Dec-03
Kegger is right. There will be no change in impedance.

Bi-wiring can give improved sound quality for the cost of a second set of cables. Bi-wired arrangements work to keep the heavy LF return earth currents away from the HF section of the crossover reducing or eliminating modulation distortion.
 

Silver Member
Username: Soccer

Post Number: 261
Registered: Apr-04
Ok, let's if I get myself through. I think when the manufacturer says minimum imp. must be 12-16 ohm when using BOTH sets, they're saying the amp will put A-LEFT and B-Left in parallel, as well as the right side, meaning to get an overall (seen by the amp) imp. of 6-8 ohm, the speakers should be 12-16 ohm (12||12=6 and 16||16=8). There's no high's or low freqs. issued here, that division will be made on the speakers's xovers. Therefore, when using only one set, the imp should be 6-8 ohms. Simple as that. As someone said early, it's biwiring issue, not a biamping one. Of course all this depends on the amp's output design, but it's much cheaper to build amps like this than to prepare them to biamping, which is what Keeger is thinking about.
Sorry if I can't be here as often as I wanted.
Enjoy
 

Silver Member
Username: Soccer

Post Number: 262
Registered: Apr-04
Also when the manufacturer of the speakers say they're biwirable, they mean they can be biamped (or biwired, IF your amp's up to it, which is not)However, there could be some aftermarket impedance matching circuits. I still think if you biwire them like that, your amp will run much much hotter and blow sooner or later, or at least enter protection mode. And note, some designs don't allow protection mode to be reseted, and then the manufacturer (or a suitable technician) would have to replace the thermistors and realign the current bias of the output devices's prestage drivers.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 1220
Registered: Dec-03
joao ferreira your still missing the point.

if he takes the biwire jumpers off the speakers
and uses both sets of outputs "biamping" the impedance
will not change.

because one set of amps has a speaker on it from
the mid on up.

and the other will have one on the bass speaker.

so neither one is playing the same frequencies as the other.

so their will not be 2 drivers sharing frequencies so they
will not be in paralell to drop the impedance.
that is the low of speakers and how their impedance
work in a xover.

if their were no xovers and the speakers played the same
frequencies then wherever the same frequencies were
played by both drivers then the drivers would be in paralell and the impedance would drop!

that is how speakers work. if it wasn't then anytime
you had a 2way speaker with (2) 8 ohm drivers you
would have a 4 ohm speaker.
but you don't (2) 8 ohm drivers with a proper parralell xover
seperating the frequencies will give you an 8 ohm speaker!
because neither driver is playing the same frequencies.
so the amp only sees 1 driver accross the whole
spectrum of frequencies.
 

Silver Member
Username: Soccer

Post Number: 265
Registered: Apr-04
Listen, Keeger, you're forgetting one thing: it doesn't really matter if an audio signal is going to the tweeter or the woofer or both. Why? Because impedance is the resistance the coil presents to the amp when this one applies an AC signal, right? Now, you remove the signal and you won't have an impedance seen by the amp, but rather a flat resistance. Therefore, no matter where the signal goes, the amp will always see a resistance and, if an Ac signal is applied, also an impedance value. Let's suppose he does that, but leaving audio signal off. What will happen is, supposing the tweeter is 8 ohm and also the woofer, the amp will see at least a flat resistance of 4 ohm. When you apply the audio signal, that resistance will work on the impedance value as well, not to mention there's NO WAY you'll ever gonna have a note that doesn't cover both range, due to harmonics, which may be lower in volume, but ARE THERE!!! On the other end I don't know any kind of music that in any given moment doesn't have both ranges covered. Audio frequency does not exist ONLY at the moment it's played or HEARD! I think you know what harmonics are? Plus, if he plugs the amp your way, even without audio signal it will stat heating, maybe not overheating. And when he start playing the music, the impedance, lowered by the resistance, will vary and then blow the amp. Do you know what an 8 ohm impedance is? It's the AC resistance to the signal at a frequency of 1014 Hz
Wiring like that will lower the imp to 4 Ohm at 1014 Hz. Not to mention bass lowers impedance and highs highers impedance. What happens when you measure a speaker's (any) coil with a multimeter? You put 2.83 Volt DC RMS on the coil and measure it's drops, calculating the resistance (the MM does this fo you), this is for you not to feel tempted to say there's no resistance...
Believe me man I'm tired of fixing amps due to connexions like these, I know what I'm saying.
Glad to hear from you!
Enjoy!
 

Gold Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 1222
Registered: Dec-03
"Because impedance is the resistance the coil presents to the amp when this one applies an AC signal, right? "

your right but if there is a xover on the driver
the amp will only see the coil when the frequencies the xover lets through reach it.

that's why you can't measure a speaker with an ohm meter.

and like i said take a typical 8ohm 2way speaker.

it has "generally" (2) 8ohm drivers in paralell
so you think ok (2) 8ohm drivers in paralell will
yield a 4 ohm load.

but when setup with a proper xover it is not 4ohm but 8ohm.
because the xover shows 1 driver at a time to the amp at a given frequencie.

if you took to full range speakers of 8ohm's and wired
them in paralell you would get a 4ohm load. yes!

I build speakers and one of the main things is
getting your impedance correct.

look at any speaker builder site with a speaker
plan and they will show you the impedance curve.
covering the whole speaker range.

when a speaker says it's 8ohms it really isn't 8ohms.
it may be 8ohms at 20hz and 15ohms at 60hz and 6ohms at 2000 hz and 8ohms at 6000hz and 20ohms at 20khz.

it's all over the place. the job of the xover is to do it's best of
keeping the impedance as flat as it can over the
entire spectrum.

generally where the 2 divers overlap in the frequencies they play are at a higher resistance
so when they are in paralell the impedance doesn't drop to low.

glad to hear from you too.
and i'm not trying to belittle anyone just showing
how when a speaker is designed it's more complicated then
(2) 8ohm drivers in paralell equals 4ohms.
"when a proper xover is designed"

have a good one!
 

New member
Username: Nobig423

Post Number: 4
Registered: Apr-04
Well, I've followed this for a few days and thought I better go back and read Dave's original post. It's not bi-amping...although there are separate A and B speaker outputs, only one amp for each front channel. So its bi-wiring...technically, both set of cables should run from speaker terminals A on the denon to the un-jumpered terminals of the speakers. The crossover(s) are still functional, just electrically separated into low and high frequency portions. So, the load that the amp sees at a given frequency would be therefore be unchanged, right?

Here's a link to a very technical discussion of bi-wiring written by someone in the know.....

http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/biwiring.htm
 

Silver Member
Username: Soccer

Post Number: 269
Registered: Apr-04
No, I don't agree with Keeger. Why? ALL manufacturers rate their speakers at 1014Hz.

One should expect that by unjumper a speaker, the imp would stay the same, but no: With the jumper on, there's a part of the xover that matches the high and low sides, so that the amp sees 8 ohm at 1014Hz. With the jumper off, that part won't work, thus the difference between biwiring and biamping, so in reality the amp will (depends on amp's design) see 2 8ohm sets in parallel. But even if the speakers xovers are state of the art and can still match the imps., the real prob lies in the amp. Why? Try to follow me: supposing it's a state of the art xover, it would be the same feeding highs with A channel and lows with B channel as feeding one speaker set with A channel and another speaker set with B channel, right? The prob lies here, when they say use 12-16 ohm sets of speakers when using both A and B channels! If you know a bit of amps design, you will wonder "why do they say this"? Because this amp is designed to put both sets in parallel, thus the need of impedance increase, so the amp will see 6-8 ohm! Yes?
Enjoy
 

Silver Member
Username: Soccer

Post Number: 270
Registered: Apr-04
Imagine this: The amp has 3 pairs of PNP/NPN power transistors in each left and each right channel, both on A and B sets. That makes a total of 12 pairs, but only 6 are used when driving one set (let's say A). When you also use the second set (B), you put in parallel 3 pairs of the right side of the set A with the 3 pairs from the right side of the set B, the same for the ste's left sides. When you do this, you double the max output current, but still need to fulfill the impedance requisites which will stay, inside the amp at the output devices level, in the 6-8 ohm range; but now you have 4 speakers, how must you wire them to give that imp? You can't, 'cause the A and B are now shunted (inside), thus the manufacturer need to impose 12-16 ohm so that the output devices will see an overall imp of 6-8! This is where the prob is!
Enjoy
 

Gold Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 1234
Registered: Dec-03
joao ferreira I think were just going to have to agree to disagree.

because this statement "among others"

"ALL manufacturers rate their speakers at 1014Hz."

contridicts everything i've learned about speakers.
"at least from the speaker building community"


 

Silver Member
Username: Soccer

Post Number: 272
Registered: Apr-04
I apologise if in any way I hurt someone's believes (that was never my intent), but it's true. Surely you can build a crossover to flat the imp from 30 to 17000 Hz, but it will never be a straight line (rather a big curve) and your reference point will always be the 1014 Hz mark, commonly the 1Khz signal. but ask the builder community, when they're designing a xover, where do they start from?
It's only my opinion, anyway, but I still say the prob lies on this amp's design, not on the xover.
Enjoy
 

Gold Member
Username: Kegger

MICHIGAN

Post Number: 1236
Registered: Dec-03
joao ferreira i'm cool were allright we both just
have strong beliefs in how this is accomplished.

and as I stated earlier!

"when a speaker says it's 8ohms it really isn't 8ohms.
it may be 8ohms at 20hz and 15ohms at 60hz and 6ohms at 2000 hz and 8ohms at 6000hz and 20ohms at 20khz"

so at least we agree on 1 thing speakers are not a flat impedance.

we had a rational arguement without anyone getting into
name calling or abusive language.

it's all good bro!

I think we both just realize were not going to convince each other.
 

Silver Member
Username: Soccer

Post Number: 274
Registered: Apr-04
Ok, I just hope I'm wrong and Dave doesn't blow the amp.
Cheers, M8!
Enjoy
« Previous Thread Next Thread »



Main Forums

Today's Posts

Forum Help

Follow Us