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Bronze Member Username: EggcreamPost Number: 26 Registered: Jun-10 | I'm wondering if my subs will work in a box like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882575001&cm_re=subwoofer_ enclosure-_-82-575-001-_-Product I've got two in a box that looks something like this with a plate over the subs http://www.thedeepdiscount.com/images/product/medium/3075.jpg I've taken off the plate before and it sounds like the subs hardly work, i'm wondering if they are a type of sub that needs to be used in that kind of enclosure. Or will they work in the single enclosure with the sub exposed. They are 500W DVC pioneer |
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Platinum Member Username: Jan_b_vigneDallas, TX Post Number: 15515 Registered: May-04 | . I can't get your links to work. |
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Bronze Member Username: EggcreamPost Number: 27 Registered: Jun-10 | I guess a simpler question to ask is, are there different types of subs for different enclosures? Are the ones that face the subs at each other and have a Plexiglas cover just for looks? This is what I want to downgrade from, to a single enclosure, to save space and hopefully get more out of my 800W amp. |
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Platinum Member Username: Jan_b_vigneDallas, TX Post Number: 15516 Registered: May-04 | . The driver will determine which type of enclosure you should use. Normally you will be looking at what are termed "T/S parameters" which are a series of numbers spelling out the physical and electrical characteristics of the driver. There is some overlap between which driver will work in which cabinet for best results but you should remain within the parameters of the driver for best results rather than trying to force a misconfigured driver/cabinet system. If you have an enclosure meant for one single driver, the volume of that enclosure will be too small by half when you add a second driver. Plexiglass covers are just for looks. Does that answer the question? . |
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Platinum Member Username: PlymouthCanada Post Number: 15431 Registered: Jan-08 | http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882575001&cm_re=subwoofer_ %20enclosure-_-82-575-001-_-Product |
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Gold Member Username: MagfanUSA Post Number: 1790 Registered: Oct-07 | Plym, the OP needs to 'do the math'. There are a number of box calculator programs for FREE for the OP to enter some numbers and get a first pass approximation of the needed box and IF it would be best as sealed or ported. http://www.ajdesigner.com/phpsubwoofervented/box_volume_equation.php Math intensive, the above link is pretty rough going. I've seen 'fill-in-the-blank calculators out there....but can't find one real quickly. |
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Platinum Member Username: Jan_b_vigneDallas, TX Post Number: 15527 Registered: May-04 | . It would be easy to find the apropriate on line calculator if we actually knew what the question was. |
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Platinum Member Username: PlymouthCanada Post Number: 15444 Registered: Jan-08 | Leo This enclosure is just so bad for me, too small for the transducer, no reinforcement inside, certainly one frequency resonnant, no ability to reproduce bass on its completeness frequencies. That will sound like big low cost JBL concert sub! Just reading this thread on a Yahoo search for Carver M-400t! I can understand why someone https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-audio/314238.html I can understand now why some of you were not in agrement with me! But I stand on my position! |
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Gold Member Username: MagfanUSA Post Number: 1791 Registered: Oct-07 | Getting or recommending a box without further information in the form of some TS values is wasteful. That IS the quetion....what size and what kind of box does Eggcream need? I have NO idea how my ancient M400t got drug into this. It did exactly what was needed and asked of it for over 20 years. I would have loved to rebuild it but it was cost prohibitive. At that point the spring clip speaker connections would have gone and a IEC outlet installed. And Plym, Your position is to just buy a box? I'm not familiar with the total design tradeoffs, but I've seen wacky hi-power subs in very small enclosures that sounded fine....the other end of the scale is large enclosure with much less power. I think both of those designs work. |
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Platinum Member Username: PlymouthCanada Post Number: 15453 Registered: Jan-08 | Leo Mi thought is why buy a box and a transducer not matched while you can buy a ready made balanced amplified sub with the active already frequencies corrections. A well made enclosure is not a cube like we can see too often on the market then use a very low correction resulting in a easier work for the amplification. I can made a enclosure without any corrections which is capacable to rendind well all the covering frequencies without clipping and flat response over the frequencies. I'm not a Carver fan then I don't like their products which I found that Carver not sound good to lower level but good on higher level, I agree that the technology used is amazing but the design is not my vision of perfect reproduction which is "simplicity sound better"! The cost is always the reason why the enclosure is reduced to a cube box, as well for the power supply on a amplifier, the electronic cost nothing today! |
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Gold Member Username: MagfanUSA Post Number: 1794 Registered: Oct-07 | Yes, a complete sub is the near-obvious way to go. Somebody else did all the math work. Somebody tested it and made sure it did what it was supposed to do at that price point. The counterpoint is the DIY guy with more time and ingenuity than money. He can get into the math, learn about TS parameters and if he has decent woodworking skills, can construct a very nice sub. Carver made some TINY subs and the tradeoff was the need for some huge amount of power. Sealed enclosure? My HSU, OTOH is ported, fairly large and has a fraction of the power of the Carver. It also reaches pretty low and makes the string bass sound real. Classical music and baroque organ are also right there...though that 16hz pedal tone IS a deal breaker, if not a house and lease breaker. |