Mine has been un-used for about 2-3 years. I tried to use it today but it would not turn on. I checked it in other AC outlets with no success. Drive belt has tension. Not sure where else to turn to find out why it is not running.
When plugged in the motor spindle was not turning. I do not recall it turning even after pressing the various front side buttons ("start" "stop" "up/down".
Could the motor have gone bad due to non-use? That does not seem possible but then again ...
I have replaced some minor parts in other audio equipment before so replacing a motor may not be a big challenge for me. I would first like to see if there is a way to test the motor to make sure that is the issue. Would I need to remove the bottom of the turntable?
The motor could be seized from non-use, however, unless the table was stored in an irresponsible manner, it's more likely another component has failed. Try Nuck's suggestion and, if the motor feels as if it cannot turn, then you very likely will need to replace the motor. However, considering the intial cost of the Sony table combined with the age of the table and the overall quality, why would you? If the motor needs to be replaced, recycle the unit responsibly and move on - some things aren't worth the effort and expense. The motor not turning has not ruled out other potential problems.
If you insist on pursuing this issue, yes, you'll have to remove the underside of the table. The motor should have some markings as to its voltage requirements if you intend to test the motor out of circuit.
Whether the turntable was plugged in or not the other day when I first tried to use it again I was able to turn the spindle part of the motor. I don't recall it spinning freely though. Also when I had the drivebelt attached I could move the platter with my finger or hand but it would not continue to move after I took my finger or hand off of the platter.
A mass market, belt drive table (or the majority of belt drive tables for that matter) doesn't include a servo loop. Servos would be ineffective on a belt drive system since the feedback loop would be useless given the lack of direct control afforded by the loosey-goosey nature of the belt - its prime advantage. Servos would be found on most direct drive systems which have the advantage of a direct connection between spindle and platter and therefore a more immediate response to servo feedback control - though the problems with servo controlled turntables are numerous and legendary.
However, if the motor turns easily by hand, then the lubricants in the motor are not hardened and the motor should be fine. That doesn't exclude other problems with the motor but a synchronous motor such as that used on the Sony table shouldn't have too many other issues and should in most cases either work or not work. Certainly, if the motor worked just prior to storage and if the motor spindle now turns freely by hand, then I would guess the motor is not the problem here. The synchronous motor on this table is not very different from a simple clock motor which also either works or does not. For the most part I would at this time rule out the motor as the possible cause of the table's problem and look for more common solutions to the issue.
In an automatic table such as the Sony the motor might not want to see 120 VAC input so attempting to drive the motor directly from a wall outlet power source could easily destroy the motor. If you're still pursuing this, check the motor for voltage requirements and proceed with caution.
The more likely issue here would be defective parts in the automatic functions or in the speed control circuits (if this table has speed control beyond a simple 33/45 RPM change). Switches of the sort used on Sony tables could have become defective over the years of non-use as could many of the mechanics of the table that would automate the motor's turn on.
A less expensive repair might be accomplished by simply replacing the belt. Belts loose their tension if they have been stored improperly and rubber and metal parts glaze which makes the old belt ineffective.
If the motor spins when you switch on the table, then certainly a new belt would be the first place to start. You can try a new belt and cleaning the underside of the platter's rim with alchohol. If that doesn't solve your problem, I would say you need to decide whether to have the table serviced by a technician or just take that amount of money and move on to a new turntable and cartridge.
Considering the table has been unused for several years I would say the old cartridge also needs to be replaced as rubber parts dry up in the suspension of the cartridge's cantilever and it could collapse after a few LP's causing permanent damage to the unfortunate LP playing at the time.
I appreciate all of the suggestions. Replying, in no particular order, ... 1) My attachment to this turntable is mainly because I bought it primarily to (eventually) transfer my LPs and 45s to CD. I didn't want to spend hundreds on a turntable whose lifespan was going to be finite based on why it was purchased. I am almost tempted to check out a Goodwill or Salvation Army type place to find a used turntable. I may be asking for more frustration in the process but it seems that finding a new basic turntable is going to be a not so easy task. 2) As for the motor spindle turning freely ... it does turn when either I rotate the platter with the belt in place or if I twist my fingers on the spindle itself. It does not continue to rotate after I have stopped rotating the platter or after I remove my fingers from the spindle. 3) I had mentioned something about a "neutral" setting on a previous turntable I had which was made by Technics. It was belt driven as well. It has been several years since I have had that one but I think the platter would spin freely whether I had it turned on or not. This one does not. With (or without)the belt in place it seems like when I spin the platter it will at some point engage the tone arm - even when not plugged in.
Thanks again. I'm not trying to belabor the functions of this turntable vs another; I just remember the previous one having a "free spinning" operation while this Sony one does not. I was not sure if this just mean the older belt drive turntable was just an oddity or had its own share of problems. Back to the Sony PS-LX250H that I have now, it looks like the motor is not the problem. Something else seems to be preventing the AC from activating the motor, et al. There do not seem to be any "shipping" bolts or screws that might be playing a factor so other than just buying another turntable what else can I try?
If the automatic functions are keeping this table from operating properly, you can try unlocking the auto functions. Typically this issue of being between functions doesn't stop the table from operating at all, just from properly operating. So I doubt this will solve the problem but you can give it a try.
Unock the tonearm from its rest and be ready to gently hold the arm up at the end of any movements it might make. By hand give the platter a spin to set it in motion throughout its cycle, this will also set the tonearm in motion at a high speed so be careful. Do not allow the tonearm to drop if it is set in motion as this will finish off the stylus and you'll be buying new parts. Do not hold onto the arm so tightly that it can't move through its normal cycle, just don't allow it to drop down at any point in the cycle. You should hear some clicking sounds as the table cycles through its auto functions.
If after this procedure is finished, the table still doen't work, you'll have to decide on service or purchase. If you've tried a new belt, there are no more user servicable parts in this table and you can do some damage if you try to force the issue.
Keep in mind only a handful of techs will service a Sony table of this vintage and cost can be prohibitive on a table of this sort. You might find more information or a tech willing to service the table on the AudioKarma forum. You might head over there for further advice and assistance;
As to the free spinning of the Technics - it probably never occurred. If the table was a direct drive, then it would have spun as you decribe since the motor had no clutch and was disconnected when not in service. Belt drives all function in mostly the same manner and the motor acts as the brake when the platter is spun and the belt is attached.
None specifically, just the load and friction of the motor/belt combined with the weight of the platter plus the friction of the main bearing. Go spin the VPI's platter and see for yourself. Then detach the belt and try again. The Sony has considerably more friction than the VPI and a far lighter platter providing less flywheel action.
I did not have a chance to do the "hold the tone-arm & spin the platter" suggestion this evening. Would this actually undo the auto function?
As for the idea about the turntable being stuck between speeds. This turntable has two buttons on the front that you press to select the speed.
Third ... I noticed with both the Sony turntable and a Technics turntable I borrowed from my father in law that neither has a ground wire like my old Technics (in a JC Penny MCS brand label) did have. When I plugged headphones into two different amplifiers I got a noticeable buzz sound. My guess was that the turntable was not grounded but if there is no ground wire how can I accomplish this.
Lastly ... based on the reason for having a turntable (transfer vinyl to CD) what recommendations would you make? Would there be any benefit to getting one with a USB connection? I ran across a sound processor unit / program from DAK that connects into the sound card itself where I guess the USB turntables do not.
Too many decisions!! It's just a real bummer that a turntable that was only a couple of years old at best when it was "mothballed" for 2-3 years would die on me!
David, it takes all of fifteen seconds to try what I suggested. It either works or it doesn't.
"Would this actually undo the auto function?"
Why do you suppose I suggested it if it wouldn't possibly work? I doubt this is the problem with your table but so, no, I don't expect it to solve your problem but, yes, when performed properly this will clear the automatic functions of most tables. Functions often get locked midway when automatic tables are moved. If you perform the task improperly, you will only screw things up even more. Allow the arm to move wherever it wants to go just don't let it lower itself onto an empty platter.
Get the table working and then we can solve the grounding issue. If you can't get it working, grounding doesn't matter.
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