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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 249 Registered: Jan-09 | I don't want to open a can of worms but I want to know if Paul Speltz Anti-Cables are a good match for my NAD 325BEE and Wharfie Evo2 8's? Currently I am biwired using Canare cables from BJC. I am also considering Chord Silver Carnivals. If I decide to stay with a 2.0 system (currently I'm trying out a sub) where can I get jumpers to replace the factory jumpers that come with my NAD325? |
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Gold Member Username: ExerciseguyBrooklyn, NY United States Post Number: 2749 Registered: Oct-04 | http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Male-Male-Preamp-Jumpers/dp/B0006VMBGO |
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Gold Member Username: ExerciseguyBrooklyn, NY United States Post Number: 2750 Registered: Oct-04 | Mordecai, there's no such thing as a good "match" when it comes to cables (at this level), simply ones you prefer. The BJC are excellent, and I personally would not direct resources in that direction. Music, room treatments, stands, etc. are all far more likely to improve your listening experience than cable fidgeting, IMHO. What causes someone to prefer one over the other might actually have something to do with the way one cables interacts with yours components, but most often, once again IMHO, has to do with aesthetics and/or boredom. But I might be in the minority. |
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Gold Member Username: Mike3Wylie, Tx USA Post Number: 2039 Registered: May-06 | Didn't we cover this once before? I think JV and / or I suggested magnet wire w/ or w/o silver and you went down the path of 12 or 14 AWG for speaker wire. Magnet wire w/ or w/o silver either crimped or soldered to an RCA plug makes for an excellent inexpensive (depending on the RCA plug) interconnect or jumper. Bottom line is match up to your best RCA. There is a synergy through ICs almost more so than you have with same manufactured components. The point being that one cable could stifle something "A" and a different cable could stilfe something "B". In the end you end up with missing both "A" and "B". Let me know if his does not make sense and I will repost it in a different way. |
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Platinum Member Username: NuckPost Number: 12850 Registered: Dec-04 | Mord, your room and personal listening space deserve much more attention than wires and jumpers, my friend. I am in the very same place, albeit a few kilometers away. it is the room, Mord, not your kit. check your pm's. |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 251 Registered: Jan-09 | Thanks for the link Chris. Michael - Yes, I remember this discussion. I was mostly curious about Paul Speltz product. Your post is very clear. I didn't go with the solid wire because none of the RS in my area had it in stock and because I don't know whow to solder with silver. Chris & Nuck - Thanks for the advice. I am considering room treatments. I have my speakers on standmounts filled with sand. I'm still learning and I'm not unhappy with the sound. I'm not running out to buy without some thought. |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 252 Registered: Jan-09 | Nuck - How do you check PM's? I've looked everywhere. |
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Gold Member Username: Mike3Wylie, Tx USA Post Number: 2044 Registered: May-06 | A PM is sent to the email account you have listed with eCoustics in your profile. |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 253 Registered: Jan-09 | Thanks Michael. That is a little confusing. |
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Silver Member Username: NmytreePost Number: 260 Registered: Aug-04 | I've started doing away with Banana Plugs and Spades. I simply use bare wire to binding posts (thread the speaker wire through the hole on the binding posts), of both the amps and speakers. Personally I am much happier with this approach. Eliminates the extra contact connections of wire to banana plug/spade and then plug/spade to binding post. Seems more direct and pure. Seems like there's a slight improvement in the sound, too. Smoother, clearer.....more coherent. Still warm and musical. But maybe it's just all in my head. But I like it this way. |
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Gold Member Username: Mike3Wylie, Tx USA Post Number: 2045 Registered: May-06 | I run bare wire for the reasons you stated above NMyTree. Less to get in the way of the signal and it sounds cleaner to me too. |
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Platinum Member Username: NuckPost Number: 12861 Registered: Dec-04 | Plus the Mac posts have plastic caps and no teeth on the sliding clamps...BOOO!!!! |
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Gold Member Username: My_rantzAustralia Post Number: 2284 Registered: Nov-05 | My VdH speaker bi-wire speaker cable has professionally fitted banana plugs. On the amp end I removed them and used bare wire - then I fitted spades. No difference in sound, however because of the recent hassles involved in having to move my A5 around (and it's shitty speaker connectors) I have replaced the spades with banana plugs again. No loss of sound quality and no more hassles. If there is anything to be gained from bare wire then for me it's not worth it - also less oxidation issues. |
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Platinum Member Username: NuckPost Number: 12866 Registered: Dec-04 | You and me both, MR. Why should posts be so difficult to make right?!? A clawfoot on the moving clamp would suffice. Having a devil of a time clamping the large spades on the Mac. |
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Platinum Member Username: ArtkAlbany, Oregon USA Post Number: 10112 Registered: Feb-05 | I used bare wire for many years and don't anymore. Difference in SQ isn't worth the difference in convenience for me however I can see why if someone is trying to achieve the best sound possible they would go with bare wire. Mordecai, if you're still trying to achieve more low end the Chord cable will probably give you a bit more there, but in the end the speaker is only going to achieve so much and if it isn't enough then it's time to move on to a different speaker. How's that sub integrating...have you thought about making a move there? |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 254 Registered: Jan-09 | I am still messing around with the cross-over settings and shopping for a sub. I will probably hold off for a few more weeks though I am still tempted to buy the maple 10's. I am hoping to find some used ones or that STO will lower the price on the black. Man I wish I could demo the 10's before buying them. I hate the idea of buying them only to still lack the low end. This is one of the reasons I am looking at speaker wire. |
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Gold Member Username: ExerciseguyBrooklyn, NY United States Post Number: 2751 Registered: Oct-04 | What kind of stands are you using? |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 255 Registered: Jan-09 | Hello Chris, I'm using these http://www.standsandmounts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1026 |
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Gold Member Username: ExerciseguyBrooklyn, NY United States Post Number: 2752 Registered: Oct-04 | They look to be nice...however...they are 29", which might be a few inches higher than optimal with the EVO2-8, unless you're taller than average or listen from an unusually high vantage point. This might warrant some attention, I'd suggest looking into a stands no more than 26", most likely between 22-24" would be optimal. http://www.standsandmounts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1025 You also might want to experiment with some of these suggestions from Mapleshade: http://www.mapleshaderecords.com/audioproducts/freeaudiotips.php |
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Platinum Member Username: NuckPost Number: 12870 Registered: Dec-04 | Good point, CM. I think Mord is ex-NBA. |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 256 Registered: Jan-09 | I'm sitting in an office chair in front of a desk. My ears are roughly at tweeter level with these stands. Not the usual setting for listening. No, I'm not an ex NBA player (wish I were). If so, I would be buying much higher end equipment with the money those guys make. I also be driving a brand new Shelby GT 500 instead a 92 Mustang Coupe. |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 257 Registered: Jan-09 | Thanks for the mapleshaderecords link. I've already learned some new stuff and made some immediate changes. |
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Platinum Member Username: ArtkAlbany, Oregon USA Post Number: 10119 Registered: Feb-05 | I would agree with Chris. They do like a nice stand however they are not the right height to get the best from the Evo8's. A good 24 inch stand should do nicely. |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 258 Registered: Jan-09 | Well, I have to have these stands because I sit at a desk. A 24 inch stand will place the tweeters below ear level and not clear the desk. |
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Platinum Member Username: NuckPost Number: 12880 Registered: Dec-04 | So long as tweeter height is understood for listening, then whatever fits. |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 259 Registered: Jan-09 | I did get all me speaker wires and interconnects off the carpet. I'm moving to another room in the house (a little larger) and plan to replace the carpet with solid flooring of some type. What about wall treatment? I have a blank wall behind me that I temporarally pinned a blanket on the wall. The other wall is also blank and the third wall has a small book case that goes have way up the wall. Can I put some cork or acoustical tile on the walls? |
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Gold Member Username: Mike3Wylie, Tx USA Post Number: 2046 Registered: May-06 | That accounts for 3 walls. What about the fourth? If the wall with the book case is to the left or right of your speakers then the first thing I would suggest is to get another one just like it and put in on the opposite wall as near positioned as the one you have now is. Secondly stagger the books in it. You could put other things in there as well. The purpose is for diffusion of your sound. Try standing up and clapping you hands in front of you. Do you hear a slight ringing sound? I think you might and if you do that means your room is too hard. Guitar center sells Auralex panels. Start with 2 24" X 48" inch panels. Place them across from each other on opposing walls. If your book case has glass doors forget about diffusion with them and cover the glass with another Auralex panel. Corner bass traps are also beneficial but you would be getting into pricier treatments. The blanket is a good start but will provide limited results. Not that I suspect that you would do this, but I will offer it up anyway. Move the desk out of the room and see how things sound. The point being is that you may have to make a decision as to where you are able to listen to your music or accept a certain amount of limitation to your sound based upon your listening environment. |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 260 Registered: Jan-09 | The fourth wall is in front of me and behind the speakers. About half the wall is a window. I can hear a bit of ringing when I clap my hands. The book case does have staggered books and misc other junk in it. Would cork or acoustic tiles work? I was thinking of picking up some cork panels at a hobby store for two of the three walls. I will check the price on the Auralex too. |
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Gold Member Username: Mike3Wylie, Tx USA Post Number: 2048 Registered: May-06 | If the existing book case is without glass and to one side or the other then a second book case on the opposite wall would be the first thing I would do. Next would be to insure the windows facing you had heavy pleated draperies almost all the way to the floor. So far, if you just did those two things, you would still have done nothing to make your room cavish therefore WAF should be high. Once you bring in the Auralex and ill matching (to the existing decor) acoustic panels all bets are off. Then there's still the issue of the desk. I use a laptop on my lap with nothing between my speakers and myself. I understand that this is where you are with your system and it is not my intention to be critical. I simply want you to understand that there are just certain limitations in your execution that you have to be able to accept. Neil, Art, stryvn, and others have similar issues of shared living space in which they employ their systems and make the best of it. They worked at making the best of their individual situations, as you are endeavoring upon now, and they all love what their kits can do. |
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Platinum Member Username: ArtkAlbany, Oregon USA Post Number: 10143 Registered: Feb-05 | The room is the least talked about and probably the most important element in audio. As Mike pointed out some of us have multi use rooms or shared living spaces where room treatment is more limited than in a dedicatd room. However there are always little things you can do to improve the sound of your system. My room is the living/listening/HT room and entertaining space. Very limited...and I know that in a dedicated space I could milk a lot more performance from my system. However given my limitations I'm very happy with what I've achieved. You'll get there too Mordecai...just takes time and a willingness to experiment a bit. |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 274 Registered: Jan-09 | I found this sound proofing kit. I think this would give me more than enough Auralex. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=278961&Q=&is=REG&A=detail s |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 275 Registered: Jan-09 | Or is this better? I think this is more of what you were talking about Michael. http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MFiber2/ These I would have to cover though. |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 276 Registered: Jan-09 | I came across this place with what looks like the same material Auralex is using for about half the price. http://www.foambymail.com/Products.html I was thinking of getting some wedge panels like Mike recommended and some bass traps. My room is 10x10. I can get 6 24x48x3 panels for $86 shipped and four bass traps for another $60 or so. This should be a good start. |
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Gold Member Username: Mike3Wylie, Tx USA Post Number: 2068 Registered: May-06 | I am intrigued by your second option above. I do not know what the material is made of and I could not discern that from your link. The third option to me is better than the first one by far. On another thread Jan made the point for aggressive dispersion with some absorbtion. |
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Silver Member Username: MordecaiTexas Post Number: 281 Registered: Jan-09 | It is acoustic foam. I got it today. They actually sent me six of the 24x48x2 wedge panels instead of three. I'm very pleased with the increase in low end. I rolled two of the wedges up and placed them behind the speakers along with one of the triangle bass traps. Placed two bass traps on the opposing wall where the ceiling and the wall meets. I put two of the wedge panels up. I will play around a little with it but I'm impresed. |
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Gold Member Username: Mike3Wylie, Tx USA Post Number: 2069 Registered: May-06 | Nice progress Mordecai! |