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Anonymous | Would it be possible to get a cheap 12inch car sub driver and a sub plate amp and construct a subwoofer that work decent. They would have the same 4ohm resistance. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=15474784&St=8408&St2=-73176544&St3=-81100685&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=9388&DID=7 |
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Derek | Yes. |
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timn8ter | Oh come on Derek! Don't you want to talk about enclosure volume, port speed and dimensions and T/S parameters? ;-) |
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Derek | No really. I have learned that math is the great barrier these days. I even considered providing simple instruction for an Excel spreadsheet that would give a drives f3, SVB and VVB but I didn't want to stun anybody. I though the simple "Yes" was appropriate. |
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timn8ter | Well, it's certainly accurate. :-) |
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timn8ter | Dear Anonymous (I really hate this anonymous stuff), I'm not really picking on Derek. From what I've seen he knows his stuff. I would like to point out to you and others on this forum one simple fact. If anybody could just throw drivers and amps into a box and get good sound there would be no loudspeaker designers. Some very intelligent people spend years designing and improving them. While it's possible to put a cheap driver and amp into a box and get it to go "thump" that doesn't mean it's going to give you what you're looking for (or maybe it will if you don't care). If you really want to learn to build a sub check out the following: http://www.diysubwoofers.org/ http://www.io.com/~patman/ |
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dave | that isn't true. i went the cheap woofer/generic box route as i HATE that subs are overpriced and most are ported. i don't like "one note bass" one bit. sure thiele small parameters etc. are helpful for optimizing performance (especially in ported designs) they aren't rules that will cause the universe to collapse if they're broken. after i bought a cheap generic 12" cabinet, i lined it's insides with 3/4" mdf AND then lined the walls with 3 and 4 inch acoustical "wedge" foam with opposite walls at 90 degrees to lessen standing waves. the resulting internal volume is alot smaller than it probably should be, but on the plus side, it has speeded the woofer up with "tighter" airspace and rolled the extreme lows off some which i actually prefer as i have neigbors and infrasonics give me a headache. i'm quite happy with the sound of my generic sub. i wanted a 2x8" box, but they were sold out. i'd say the REAL problem isn't using the "kit" approach, i'd say it's using 4 ohm subwoofers. these REALLY are stressful to home amps as most of them aren't designed to work with low impedence. my onkyo reciever's manual clearly says "don't use 4 ohm speakers" as i was considering going with maggies. if you're going with a sealed (acoustic suspension) setup, then using the wrong internal volume will mostly affect bass rolloff as volume affects the system's "q". if you really want to do it right, buy radio shack's $8 speaker building book or look up thiele/small parameters on the net to see how to optimize a woofer to a cabinet. this is REALLY important with ported boxes as q affects the resonant frequency of the port. car woofers are really overpriced often. you can get better deals if you're a cheapskate (like me) by going with raw drivers from places like parts express/madisound/solen or where i got my $40 woofer, mcm. i'd say go with EIGHT OHM woofers for home use. they're an easier load on your amp AND 8 ohm woofers are better controlled than 4 ohm. auto systems use lower impedence as it's a lower drain on the autos puny electrical system. hope this helps you somewhat. |
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timn8ter | I see what you mean Derek. |
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Derek | Uh, huh. |