Scott Receiver R 357

 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1097
Registered: Dec-06
I was wondering why my receiver seems to get SO hot when there's no load on it, but when I put speakers on it and ran them at high volume, it never got hot...

I read around and I would figure it's class A because of how that works. What would you say about that?
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1098
Registered: Dec-06
I feel like building a cheap powerful amplifier (don't really care about the sound on a first amplifier, just want to make like a class AB with parts from RadioShack or something.), better do a lot more learning than I've been trying to...
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1120
Registered: Dec-06
Oh I didn't tell you. I bought a female 1/4 jack from Radioshack, then I hooked some wire up to it's connections and into that Scott amplifier. I really didn't want to damage the headphones so I really didn't turn it up that loud. All I was doing was seeing if my receiver's headphone output was clipping or the headphones were reaching their limits...

I turned it up until I heard distortion and since the headphones started doing their normal buzzing at around 3x volume (like 15db?) than normal (it was eery) I can assume that it was the receiver headphone output clipping.

Hey, at least I have a speaker wire to 1/4" jack adapter now! It sounded much better through the speaker outputs IMO, probably because of the higher power reserve.
 

Gold Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 9752
Registered: May-04
.


No, your receiver is not running in class A.
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1155
Registered: Dec-06
It must be AB. I've got another question. I practically jumped on the plastic case for one of my old computer speakers (which sounded good, should still) and finally broke it in half, then screwed the driver out.

I noticed the driver (around 6mm P-P excursion) was 4-ohms and I wondered if I would damage the Scott ($500 in early 70s) since it's so old. It says no lower than 4-ohms on the back and wouldn't expect to use more than 10 watts anyway. Do you think it could handle 4-ohms being over 30 years old? If not, I better not risk it.
 

Gold Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 9778
Registered: May-04
.


Let's start with another question. If someone tells you not to do something, do you usually do it?
 

Gold Member
Username: Nuck

Post Number: 5855
Registered: Dec-04
Andre, do not play in traffic.
 

Silver Member
Username: Gamerdude

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 398
Registered: Apr-06
Lol @ thinking class "A"
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1162
Registered: Dec-06
No Jan... Yeah Nuck you're right I've gotten hit 365 times ... kyle... GAME ON!

Anyway... I took the driver and put it in a cardboard...yes cardboard...box (A small refrigerator box). I took some electrical tape and some wire and wire stripper, then stuck the driver in (couldn't find anything to mount it, but the box is sealed), plugged it into the amp, and turned it on. Upon turn on the driver got real close, but didn't hit, its limits. I then played a rap song on the radio at low volume...turning it up unitl the driver seemed to be getting all the power it could take. The amp takes it just fine, even at it's age. There is an OK amount of bass I might add. I also sealed the driver using tape and the sound improved a lot.

My first "speaker."
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1188
Registered: Dec-06
More on that. I compared output to the Bose and it definitely gets a lot louder + the bass is a lot louder and all without the annoying distortion the Bose put out. I guess that's what more amplifier power gets you.
 

Gold Member
Username: Nuck

Post Number: 5924
Registered: Dec-04
It's like a car wreck. Don't want to look, but just somehow forced to do so anyhow.

Similar results.
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1204
Registered: Dec-06
"Similar results." ??

More. I attached another box of similar size to it and bam, even more bass. I was surprised by how much difference the box makes. Larger box FTW! It might just be the cardboard vibrating and acting like a poorly tuned PR I'm not sure. It's much better than the Bose I can be sure of that.

Question: I know how 70v systems work (constant voltage, varying amperage), do normal systems have constant amperage and varying voltage or do both vary as you turn the volume control up?
 

Gold Member
Username: Nuck

Post Number: 5928
Registered: Dec-04
Andre, you are making transmission line speakers there?
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1210
Registered: Dec-06
Nope. But, I should make one tuned to maybe 70hz. I don't know how large that would be. It's more like an infinite baffle because the Vas I think is around 20x what the driver's T/S is.
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1236
Registered: Dec-06
Lol I took all the small speakers I have (6 ~3"ers) and spread them out across one side of my bedroom. There was a lot of deep bass, it was eery. I guess lots of small drivers work? Maybe it's just my imagination.
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1254
Registered: Dec-06
I'm dabbling on the thought of whether to get a Pioneer Vsx-82tsx or a 4645c with a Behringer EP2500 OR a Seismic 12. Decisions, desicions.
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1255
Registered: Dec-06
*Decisions*
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1270
Registered: Dec-06
OMG I just went to turn it up a little bit and a strong shock that lasted 2 whole seconds ran through my arm! That was even stronger than the 240v shock I got last year! My arm feels weird now...
 

Gold Member
Username: Nuck

Post Number: 5953
Registered: Dec-04
see 'Car Wreck' above.
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

400dB could probably d..., SouthWest Mi... Too Many DBs...

Post Number: 1624
Registered: Dec-06
News. I think I'll be getting hold of a camera here soon so I can show you what I'm trying to say or what I've been talking about.
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

Extreme SQ FTW

Post Number: 1930
Registered: Dec-06
I guess I never got a hold of a camera! Anyway, here's a place where some guy is selling this receiver. There are lots of pics so I can show you what I was talking about in that first thread where I asked if it were a tube amp etc.

http://cgi.ebay.com/HH-H-H-SCOTT-STEREO-TUNER-RECEIVER-AMPLIFIER-R-357-NR_W0QQit emZ280094542557QQcategoryZ50596QQcmdZViewItem

Do you guys think Scott is a quality brand?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 10050
Registered: May-04
.


Current bid: $5.50.
 

Silver Member
Username: Gamerdude

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 445
Registered: Apr-06
Scott a division of fisher????


Andre a class "A" amp is very costly
 

Silver Member
Username: Gamerdude

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 446
Registered: Apr-06
Kinda reminds me of fisher , thats all
 

Silver Member
Username: Gamerdude

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 447
Registered: Apr-06
Kinda reminds me of fisher , thats all

By the way I'm sure its more then "10watts" just by checking the fuse size*(4A)amps*
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

Extreme SQ FTW

Post Number: 1982
Registered: Dec-06
Well back in the day it was rated 60 watts, probably peak the way ur sayin, but it seems to put out a lot more than the Yammy.
 

Silver Member
Username: Gamerdude

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 457
Registered: Apr-06
Some of the older gear has wicked bottom end(bass). Others are just not made well where they say on the volume gauge they will go to 20 when from 1-5 it will put out a good 30-40% of its power, and when it reachs about 9-12 it will start clipping.

My parent got one of the lowest end yammy 5.1 recievers and it doesnt have much bass at all even going down into the single digits. My H/K on the other hand isnt bad for bass but I'm using sealed speakers which can take more power and wont give you as much bass.


DO you see where I'm getting at?
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

Extreme SQ FTW

Post Number: 1991
Registered: Dec-06
Oh yes...very much so. I've always had the bass knob cranked to the top which sounded great with the JBLs (which have almost no bass until getting into the + regions on the Yammy and when they do it just doesn't sound right), but now that I have a little tiny speaker hooked to it I have to have the bass knob turned down a little and when I crank the volume past 1/8 of the way the little driver is already at it's limits. Around when I first hooked it up, I cranked the bass all the way up, turned the volume to 1/3, played a bass track through it, and it was not pretty... The driver's suspension was at the edge (you've seen overpowered subwoofers) when the JBL's would beg for more at that level and be way more efficient (11dB more efficient precisely) at the same time; totally get what you're coming from in the quality of bass some old gear has.
 

Silver Member
Username: Gamerdude

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 465
Registered: Apr-06
It allso has to do with the quality of the amp. Some are built better which in return = better sound
 

New member
Username: Rbgeez

Rogers, MN USA

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-07
I have a question about the SCOTT R357. I'm a novice honestly, but I ended up with it trying to get away with an outdoor sound system for my home. I plan to install indoor/outdoor speakers under my deck while pumping tunes into the R357. The TUNER works great. The PHONO channel works great, but I want to use this thing in a manner that it wasnt originally intended.
I want to send music through one of the inputs (either the AUX, TAPE, or PHONO) that has already been converted to LINE level. In other words, I'm running a DJ rig and want the programming coming out of the DJ mixer to be processed through one of the inputs on the R357. I've got music coming through the AUX, but very poor & low. Even worse on TAPE. As mentioned before, the PHONO input works great, but only with one turntable connected.
Any suggestions to beat this? Thanks in advance for your time :-)
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

Extreme SQ FTW Missouri

Post Number: 2313
Registered: Dec-06
I currently am using my computer and cd player on the inputs of the R 357. When I was younger (age 5-7) I used to get bad sound from the Aux input of the Scott and then hooked it to tape input 1. Make sure you have the dial on the left turned to normal and the levers on the right in the correct position (Monitor one, copy off; unless you're wanting the sound to return to your DJ rig through the tape output). Make sure you try testing the inputs without the DJ rig in the way and just straight from a CD Player or something. When you say line-level (I mean converted, as from the turntable I'm guessing), I'm expecting you mean just sending a signal as it would normally take? I mean...it IS line-level.

Also, make sure you don't damage small speakers because when you turn the tuning knob you make the speaker cone move in and out. On my JBLs, they seem to be built like a tank and I can't drive the drivers to their limits. When I hook up a Bose or my driver that's on it now though... the drivers move in and out a lot, especially when it's turned past the 2nd notch. On the KLH, if I turn it past the 6th notch they they start reaching their limits, but the JBLs can take all it has, so that's good.

I tried to help as best I could on the first paragraph, so hopefully you get something out of it.
 

New member
Username: Rbgeez

Rogers, MN USA

Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-07
SHH-EET. You know something. It worked! I feel green because I already tried the TAPE before & I had an entirely different experience. Conceivably I had one of the levers or knobs in the wrong position. But I know better. Ironically I couldnt reproduce the original issue. I'm thinking maybe I didnt have the RCA properly inserted. I'll never know, but very grateful for your input (no pun intended). Thank you Dre-$!

I did notice the pops when you turn some of the knobs & took note earlier. Thanks for that as well.

Whats the DE-EMPHASIS adjustment all about?

 

Platinum Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 10237
Registered: May-04
.

Engage the FM muting and your popping woofers should stop, if not, check for an adjustment pot (probably on the back panel if it's anywhere) to trim the FM muting. Or, turn the volume down when you change channels. 25 microsecond De-emphasis was for FM signals broadcast in Dolby noise reduction. It never caught on.

.
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

Extreme SQ FTW Missouri

Post Number: 2318
Registered: Dec-06
Haha you make me laugh R. A.

I think the De-Emphasis has to do something with treble. This is a quote from Marantz talking about their old receivers: "The 25 uS de-emphasis switch changes the receiver or tuner's method for receiving FM to allow more treble through." It has to do with Dolby Noise Reduction and if the signal is weak can make it noisier so I just leave it on the middle location (50 uS as opposed to 25 and 75).

Make sure that all the knobs are correct. When I adjust the low and high filters I notice it just slightly decreases the treble and bass regions. The Mute button just affects the sound somehow, not quite sure. I'm sure we all now what the loud button is for...it boosts highs and lows to compensate for Fletcher-Munson to make it sound fuller at lower volumers. Stereo/Mono is self-explanatory.

With the rest, I just know it can handle 4-ohms on one pair running on A or B and 8-ohms/pair with one on each; both running. I just thought I'd clarify a few things. The rest is self-explanatory.

I replaced the power cord that came with mine with one that seemed well built. It seemed a hazard of shock and was thin so that's why I replaced it.
 

Gold Member
Username: Nuck

Post Number: 6865
Registered: Dec-04
But of course that was self-explainatory, Andre.

Just razzin' ya man
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

Just a matte... Missouri

Post Number: 2328
Registered: Dec-06


Oh thanks Jan I never looked back after I posted. I just turn the volume down.

I'll be going in with a 4311 (the already damaged one; damaged in our first move) or two this monday (they're a bit heavy) and will hope to see if the difference I'm looking for lies in speakers or receiver.

What's Canada like?
 

Gold Member
Username: Nuck

Post Number: 6874
Registered: Dec-04
Large.
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

Just a matte... Missouri

Post Number: 2437
Registered: Dec-06
Ha ^^

The time is nearing now...it is...for the purchase of whatever it is.

Anyway...I wondered if I could power this 6-ohm 1.5w (it says on back) driver with the Scott? I blew the other one easily and it was a bit bulkier than this one... I guess it wouldn't hurt to try if I didn't turn it up too loud...but I won't do that until later. At least school's out now lol
 

Gold Member
Username: Arande2

Just a matte... Missouri

Post Number: 2438
Registered: Dec-06
It has NO bass so I'm only using it for learning box/driver relationships (it's light and easy to work with). I did, however, put two larger 4" drivers on and I'm getting good bass to 40hz (using SPL meter), but they can't handle more power (excursion) than the computer speaker driver I had on before everything else and after the JBLs.
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