Gold Member Username: NuckPost Number: 4754 Registered: Dec-04 | I have my lovely Ling speakers about ready to be placed in the living area. They will be placed for near field listening mostly, but opened up for a slightly larger field. The integrated tube amp is rated at 18w/ch, and the pc sound card is the source. I am not sure how to mount them. I have used the little darlin's in the listening room, powered several ways, but have never had them mounted properly. I am unsure of the best mount for these, should I look for a heavy solid coupling, or perhaps allow the cabinet(very solid) to work it's own effect? I will purchase stands, for asthetic purposes, but I am unsure of filled stands, weight considerations, etc. The speakers are fine at about 50 Hz, not much lower(just right) for acoustic guitar, vocals and the like. Think JT, or Eric Clapton unplugged. I hope Tim will have some ideas. What say you? |
Silver Member Username: Daniel_canadaCanada Post Number: 235 Registered: May-06 | Who's JT? |
Gold Member Username: NuckPost Number: 4758 Registered: Dec-04 | james Taylor. Live at the beacon. Fantastic recording. |
Platinum Member Username: Project6Post Number: 11788 Registered: Dec-03 | "Who's JT?" How young are you Dan???? |
Gold Member Username: Timn8terSeattle, WA USA Post Number: 1137 Registered: Dec-03 | I like using spikes and mass loaded stands mostly. Knowing what a handy fella you are I think I'd put some tip toes in the bottom of the Lings like these: http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=%Ert_id%%&pid=1601 build something like this: http://www.timn8er.com/speaker_stands.htm Get the center of the driver equal in height to your ears and maybe add some toes to the bottom or even fabricate something similar to these: |
Gold Member Username: Timn8terSeattle, WA USA Post Number: 1138 Registered: Dec-03 | durp Missed the part about you "buying" stands. Massed loaded, yep, play sand, yep, yep. Good stuff. |
Gold Member Username: NuckPost Number: 4760 Registered: Dec-04 | I am OK to build them, Tim, thanks for the vote of confidence. I will buy, for lack of fab time, running my tail off. Fully loaded, fully coupled. Thanks, again. PS The Lings are singing quite beautifully right now, sitting on 28" of 10" sonotube, no coupling, 6" from the rear wall and close to a corner. With the new Hong Kong 18w amp in warm song. I dig it! Sylvia's mother is so right, it's like live. Fabulous! |
Gold Member Username: Timn8terSeattle, WA USA Post Number: 1139 Registered: Dec-03 | Which amp? |
Gold Member Username: NuckPost Number: 4763 Registered: Dec-04 | It is a hong kong amp, made in China, no doubt. Mengyue, is the make, I posted on tube talk with the specs. |
Gold Member Username: NuckPost Number: 4764 Registered: Dec-04 | Wow, if that works, I'll be a monkey's uncle. I will try again, Tim. See amps instead. |
Gold Member Username: NuckPost Number: 4765 Registered: Dec-04 | So solidly coupled to a heavy, unforgiving stand, is that correct, Tim? |
Gold Member Username: Timn8terSeattle, WA USA Post Number: 1140 Registered: Dec-03 | Minimize the contact area between the enclosure and the stand and between the stand and the floor (a.k.a. tip-toe spikes) and fill the stand with play sand. Seems to work best for me. |
Silver Member Username: Daniel_canadaCanada Post Number: 236 Registered: May-06 | 31 |
Gold Member Username: Jan_b_vigneDallas, TX Post Number: 9416 Registered: May-04 | . "For my audition I played the Ling with the grill covers off and experimented with stands to get the best performance from the speaker. My experience with the Ling suggests this is a speaker that does not like to be tied down to a stand with BluTak. The Lings sounded best in both of my systems using a heavy, well damped stand. But, in another swipe to conventional wisdom, instead of attaching the speaker to the top plate of the stand with mounting cement, I placed the substantial weight of the Lings on three short Tiptoes (cones) on top of a piece of oak plywood cut to fit under the Lings. The ply was placed on top of the stands with a single sheet of paper towel between the two surfaces. (This arrangement was made first with cement blocks to find the correct height for the speakers prior to substituting the actual lead shot and sand damped speaker stands.) This let the Lings sing clearly and sweetly instead of shutting down their frequency range and, most importantly, their dynamics as happened when the speakers were cemented directly to the damped stands. With a single 4.5" driver operating up to the edge of the highest octave, the speakers were toed in toward my listening position until I could see only the front baffle of the Lings." https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/products/reviews/156699.html . |
Gold Member Username: NuckPost Number: 4777 Registered: Dec-04 | Thanks Jan, I had lost that link. |
Gold Member Username: NuckPost Number: 4779 Registered: Dec-04 | Dan, if it hits 35, sell! Well it seems that Mrs. Nuck would prefer the speakers on the desktop. The desk is 6ft. long, plus a 3' return, with a modesty panel, all in solid pine. The rear of the desk is against the wall, so the Ling's will be pushed within 6" of the wall. Not ideal, but the bass re-inforcement may be ok for everyone but me. I have a set of spikes, but will need a slab of heavy hardwood to couple to the desktop. Shall I drill and tap 1/4-20 into the speaker cab, or look for inserts to accomplish the spikes, meaning 3/8" holes? And BTW, I do not suggest 10" sonotube for a permanent solution, the WAF is low. No, lower. |
Gold Member Username: Timn8terSeattle, WA USA Post Number: 1143 Registered: Dec-03 | It's ok to drill into the cab. The material is 3/4" thick. I've been consistently successful drilling just over 1/2" deep holes for the inserts. You probably know this but, the danger with inserts is overtightening. Best to just get them snug and stop. Heavy hardwood is good but rock is better; marble, granite, etc.. |