I had some new speakers delivered in February. I wasn't too impressed at first, but they seemed to improve a lot after the first week or two.
In fact, I was then quite pleased with them. Only problem was that stereo imaging wasn't too brilliant if you were fairly close to them.
Somebody on this board mentioned recently about tightening the screws which fix the drivers. I'd meant to do this for some time, but the drivers aren't fixed by normal screws - so I didn't get round to it until today, when I stumbled across my 'special' screwdriver set.
I was surprised that all of the screws seemed to be a little slack. All could be tightened by three quarters of a turn with virtualy no force.
This simple procedure seems to have improved stereo imaging, at even the closest distance, by an impressive amount.
This should be done after a few weeks with new speakers and at least once a year as part of your general housekeeping chores of cleaning and tweaking the system. Make certain you also tighten the screws holding the cup around the binding posts if your speakers use this item.
Jan, I think it was yourself who mentioned this recently. Thanks for the reminder.
I've just checked the screws around the binding post holder and they seem okay.
I assume that it is the vibration which causes the speaker screws to rotate out over a period of months. Do you think it would it be a good idea to remove the drive units and put a glob of glue into the screw holes before replacing them? Presumably this would stop this problem.
It is the material that is used for the front baffle that allows the screws to vibrate loose after a period of time. As we all know MDF does not hold a screw as well as plywood or solid wood. But most speaker designers use MDF for its other desirable properties so we have to make the best of the situation.
If you want to use glue I would recommend nothing more than a white glue such as Elmer's school glue. It will bond to the MDF and provide a bit more grip for the screws. If you use anything more than this to secure the screws, you risk not being able to remove the screw should service ever be required. If a screw has completely stripped the MDF material, you can use the end of a toothpick inserted into the hole to give the screw something to grip onto.
The best solution would be to take the driver out and install T-nuts or lags for bolts going into the MDF baffle. Both solutions will provide a more secure grip than woodscrews but require more woodworking skills and tools than most of us have available.
When you tighten the screws be careful not to over torque the screws. You risk stripping the MDF or warping the basket of the driver. Reasonably tight and then an 1/8 to 1/4 turn more should be sufficient. And tighten in a pattern alternating across the driver not in a circle.
I gotta figgur that Jan has an answer for 'bout everything going on here. Thanks, Jan, I count on you and other members for the best info! The new Rotel power amp is cookin' BTW.
Geez, what kind of 'boutique' manufacturer sells product with quality control that is so slack, that they sell speakers with loose screws??
Geez, my wonderful audiophile CV screws were still tight after 20 years when I removed the drivers for reconing
Diablo shoud have bought CVs instead. At least they assemble their products and tighten down their screws.
HEH...j/k
Audiophile speaker makers must use 'girlyman' screws and dont tighten them for fear of breaking something?? They must be poorly made if they need maintenance.
I've never seen a "girlyman screw," I didn't know they made screws special for real men. Are they 2 inches wide and require a chainsaw motor to install?
You'd think any respectable company would care enough about their product to assemble their speakers properly so they sound their best, and new customers wont find it necessary to break out the 'tool belt' to make things right.
Anonymous
Posted on
I saw a "girlyman" screw once but I don't thnk he was very satisfying for her.
