I have read your posts earlier on ID MAX hence i bought a ID MAX 12 v3 d2 to be hooked with hifonics 1000d. According to one of the reviews the guy suggested stuffed 1.5 cu ft sealed enclosure for sound quality. What size in your opinion would be a good sound quality enclosure? thankS!
Image Dynamics recommends 1.3 cu ft sealed for it and they don't mention polyfill. I bent the rules with mine . I almost always use polyfill to dampen the box a bit and make it appear larger. Larger boxes offer greater bandwidth (can drop lower and play flatter) and will allow more excursion with less power as the box doesn't control the cone as much. You will lose a little tightness in the upper range (above 80 hz or so) with a larger box. I'd go 1.3-1.5 cu ft sealed for the ID Max. Mine is around 1.3 cu ft with about an inch of loose polyfill spread to each side of the box, excluding the side that the sub is mounted to, and I stapled it to the sides. The sub in this box sounds fantastic. If you want more output, get a vented enclosure made between 1.75-2.25 cu ft, and tune it between 24-30 hz for best SQ. I recommend slot vents, they give less port noise at high output. Great sub and good choice, I've enjoyed mine very much. If you want to play around with sub enclosures, you can download WinISD and try it out.
ID's recommendation for a sealed box is 1.3 cubic foot gross. My box is about 1.3 cu ft. gross plus the polyfill, which I don't have very much in there, maybe a pound at the most, so it may see .1 cu ft more or less. I did it to dampen mostly, my enclosure is square, but the inside has triangular bracing on each corner to eliminate standing waves and add structural support, after calculations it comes to a little under 1.3. I ran WinISD before making the box, and the optimum performance was with 1.33 cu ft, so I'm really close.
ok 1.3 gross. with the displacement of the driver, you're back to about 1cu ft. I wasn't far off.
Tara
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i downloaded winISD. i had to add this driver as it wasnt in the list. and it asked for all sort of specs, i did fill out what i could the rest i didnt know and it wasnt on ID website either... what did you put in for this on teh software Jon, : Le: Z: Pe: BL: dia: Sd:
I left Le and BL blank as I could not find these specifications. You won't need these specs, anyway, not too important in designing a box. It will show 1.331 for the box design to start with, or should if your specs were right. This is for a .71 Q factor (great, the best all around Q), which WinISD optimizes a box for when beginning a new project.
Tara
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got the box done its 1.31, i still have to figure out the settings on the hifonics 1000d amp which i dont have a clue about . what do you think should be regular setting on these :
subsonic 15hz to 35hz bass EQ 0db to 18db Low Pass 35hz to 250Hz Phase 0` to 180` Level 9V to 0.2V
all these knobs are like... suppose if you look at a clock the pointer is from 8(min) to 4(max), so you can tell me like to keep the pointer at 10 or 1 or etc. hope you understand what i am trying to say ... lol thankS!
First, make sure all knobs are in a fully counter-clockwise position.
Subsonic: Leave it off since you run a sealed box. A sealed box usually drops flat to 9 hz, and the ID Max can drop to 10, you won't need the filter as it will only hinder the performance of the sub. Bass EQ: Don't engage this. You don't need it.
Low pass: This is subjective, and depends on where you set the high pass crossover for your front speakers, try to stay at 80 hz or lower, I set mine at 60 hz usually, but it depends on if the component speakers can drop to 60 without bottoming out. The higher the frequency of the bass, the more easily you can discern where it's coming from (you can tell it's in a trunk) Lower frequency bass, around 60-80 hz and below, is omni-directional and will blend in with the front speakers very well.
Phase: This is to match the timing of the sub with the front speakers, set this to where the sub best blends in with the music, you'll notice a point where the bass response is overall improved (louder) that's where the setting should be.
Level: This totally depends on the input signal from the head unit. Turn the head unit's volume to 3/4 of max (or up until you can hear distortion), then turn the level of the amp up to where you just hear distortion, then back off until it stops.