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New member Username: Thesoundguy101Post Number: 1 Registered: Mar-12 | I WOULD LIKE TO CONNECT MY PRZA 1500.1 POWERZONE 1500 WATTS MAX CRUNCH MAXXSONICS ^^^(CAR SUBWOOFER AMPLIFIER) TO: WHICH ARE (2) TS-W308D4 12 INCH CHAMPION SERIES PIONEER SUBWOOFERS DUAL 4 OHM VOICE COILS I ALREADY HAVE BROUGHT THE 4OHM DOWN TO 2 OHM! THE SUBS ARE ALREADY MOUNTED INTO SINGLE SUBWOOFER BOXES! MAX. MUSIC POWER 1400W NOMINAL POWER 400W I WANT TO CONNECT THE POWER SUPPLY (cpu) (atx) OF FROM A DELL COMPUTER POWER SUPPLY CAN YOU TELL ME IF THIS IS POWERFUL ENOUGH FOR MY 1500.1 MONO CRUNCH CAR SUBWOOFER AMPLIFIER? i DID AS FOLLOWS WITH THE YELLOW WIRE AND HAVE IT GO TO REM AND POS+ TERMINAL ON AMP AND BLACK WENT TO GRND- TERMINAL OF COURSE YEAH BUT ALSO DONE THE BYPASS METHOD SO THE CPU/ATX TURNS ON AS WELL. YES IT TURNS ON I DO GET POWER TO THE AMPLIFIER, I HAD THE SUBS CONNECTED TO PROPPER TERMINALS AND HAD THE RCA CABLES CONNECTED PROPERLY BUT I CAN NOT SEEM TO GET ANY SOUND ??? DOES ANY OF THIS INFORMATION MAKE SENSE? IS THERE AN ALTERNATIVE WAY TO TROUBLESHOOT THIS? IT SHOULD BE ABLE TO CONNECT TO MY COMPUTER IT WAS ALL SET UP LIKE THEY SAY ON THIS WEBSITE I FOLLOWED THE LINK FROM VARIOUS PLACES LIKE YOUTUBE AND A CHAT BOARD BUT I LOST THE URL FROM ON HERE CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME OUT ASAP? THE COMPUTER HAD DOUBLE MALE TO FEMALE Y ADAPTER PLUS RCA I KNOW IT WORKS CUZ I CAN CONNECT IT TO MY VIZIO THE IMPUT SHOULD HAVE WORKED ON MY AMP INPUT ALSO I THOUGHT FOR SURES! IF I USE MY/ WIRE IT UP TO MY JENSEN VM9312 IN DASH RECIEVER MONITER IT WORKS ON IPOD LINK, CD PLAYER, AND IT SHOULD WORK ON DVD AND EVERYTHING ELSE, I DID NOT TRY AUX 1 I DON'T NEED AUX 2 AND RADIO SHOULD WORK I MEAN BUT NOT LIKE I HAVE A CAR RADIO ANTANNA WIRE IN MY HOME LOL. SO AGAIN YEAH CD AND I POD WORKS. I HAD THE RADIO WIRED UP TO A 12V MINI TYPE BATTERY AS FOLLOWS RED AND YELLOW TWIST TOGETHER AS IF WIRED INSIDE A CAR BOTH THESE GO TO POS+, BLACK GOES TO GROUND NEG-. AND THE AMP WAS CONNECTED TO A IMPUT OF AC 120V AND OUTPUT OF DC 12V THIS WAY WORKS TOTALLY SUBS ARE WIRED FINE AND ALL CONNECTIONS WORK & I DO RECIEVE SOUND FROM SUBWOOFER AND REGULAR SPEAKER. SO RIDDLE ME THIS, WHAT DO YOU NOTICE WROND WITH THE SET UP WITH ME NOT ABLE TO GET SOUND FROM THE SET UP OF A DELL ATX/CPU MODEL: H305N-00 P/N: HP-P3077F3 LF AC IMPUT(50-60HZ): 100-120V~/9A DC OUTPUT: +5V =/22A,+3.3=/17A MAX. OUTPUT POWER:305W THUS BEING THE MAX OUTPUT POWER SUPPLY IS 305W IS THIS WHY I CAN NOT RECIEVE ANY SOUND OUT OF THE AMP? THE AMP IS FINE I RAN IT TODAY WITH THE AC/DC ADAPTER BUT THAT DOES NOT HAVE ENOUGH POWER TO PULL. I KNOW THE SUBS AND AMP ARE FINE. i WANT TO FIND A RELATIVELY AFFORDABLE WAY TO USE ATX/ CPU AS POWER SUPPLY PLEASE HELP OUT. AM I ABLE TO USE MORE THAN ONE COMPUTER POWER SUPPLY? THANKS |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1329 Registered: May-09 | The power supply would need to meet peak power or 1500W to be adequate, parallel computer power supplies is not something I would do but you can give it a try. Feed the amp with an MP3 player but set your gain low. |
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New member Username: Thesoundguy101Post Number: 2 Registered: Mar-12 | what you mean feed the amp with an mp3 player. u mean headphones out jack to y male/female adapter rca adapter...right? idk bout that. (So in my first message I say I don't get any sound when I wanted to use the cpu, would this restrict the amp from recieving the power it needs to amplify the sounds) so untill I find something which is 1500w you basically say because the cpu is not getting enough adequite or peak power it will not work I guess just the amp would turn on but no sounds when connected...but light do work & I do know that amp does work like I said when connected otherwise. Alright, cool. So where can I find something which would be of 1500w power supply is there a higher rating pcu or would you have any reccomendations to use otherwise.....thanks |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1336 Registered: May-09 | I have to say that this is wild advice. it will work but is not a proper way to do it. I have done it without issues but in a careful manner. Parallel a couple of 750W high quality power supplies (like coolermaster or something like that, not generic cheap ones), never use the same power supply that is sourcing the computer the power supply definitely can't source both devices.. definitely!! So get the power supplies and test, if you can't get it sounding use the mp3 player as an alternative signal source. Again I don't recommend this but a proper power supply would cost a lot... so take your chances if you want to. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, South Carolina Post Number: 14590 Registered: Dec-03 | very bad idea to use a PC power supply to drive a power amplifier. those power supplies are NOT designed to drive a sustained high current load like an amplifier. |
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New member Username: Thesoundguy101Post Number: 3 Registered: Mar-12 | alright well I have not found any 750w cpu/atx power supplies to get the job done. I would need two in my case but I want them to be the same kind. Since I can not find two of the same kind I would like to step it up and find a 1500w cpu/atx Which is what I am calling for anyhow needed for my max total power. @Glasswolf I would like to know more of why this is a bad idea other than I can electrify my self beings and which is why I have to modify this to use it as I would like to or as needed. I've been researching this and there is stuff on the internet that it can be done but nobody had one for what I want to do. Youtube how to power car amplifier for car subwoofer in home. I do not want to have to get multiple car batteries and run them off a car charger in series, But if I did I found a few chargers on ebay I might consider. My last option is to use a home theatre type of reciever and the one I have the volume knob is all screwed up which means if you try to turn it up it turns down like way down, then increasing in volume & goes up. Same thing when you try to decrease the volume |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1388 Registered: May-09 | http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=41987 7&Sku=T925-3083 |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, South Carolina Post Number: 14592 Registered: Dec-03 | 750 watt 12 volt AC to DC power converter, for sustained high current applications. this is what you need to avoid setting your house on fire like an idiot. http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/sp-750-12.shtml you're welcome. |
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New member Username: Thesoundguy101Post Number: 4 Registered: Mar-12 | uh, thanks and It will be supervised while I would be in the same room. Thank's for caring about my safety at wiring and electrical. I actually need two 750's as stated earlier.... but I would like to just get one 1500w power supply. I know it's 12 v AC to DC converter I've been researching Thermaltake I actually want a silverstrider 1500 if they had one. Guess that they do they just call it the SILVERSTONE Strider Series 1500W ATX 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Power Supply... @ Glasswolf it would be used reasonably and is actually always unpluged when I am done. What do you thing of the youtube research. (Did you look it up: Youtube how to power car amplifier for car subwoofer in home.)?? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, South Carolina Post Number: 14593 Registered: Dec-03 | Again, a computer power supply isn't designed to supply sustained high current loads like a car audio amplifier, and is incapable of supplying the current required for quick spikes in demand. That link I gave you sells power supplies up to 1000 watts. That should be sufficient for you anyway, since a pair of 750 watt amps will never actually put out that much power anyway when used to play music over speakers. amplifier power ratings are peak output with a fully driven signal at 20-20KHz, into a resistive dummy load with a signal generator. This will produce much mroe power than a CD player with a dynamic audio source recorded at 12-20dB below reference level, into a reactive load (speakers) that are subject to impedance rize from the enclosure tehy are in and the environment they are in, with your volume knob at less than 100% full blast. All of these factors reduce your power output to something closer to about 100 watts total at really loud volumes. My home audio amplifier (two of them, anyway) have VU meters. When I have the stereo cranked reeeaaaally loud, those meters rarely even tap the 5 watt mark, and they are capable of going up to 400 watts per channel. I'm trying to teach you a bit here not only about power supply design, but power to volume ratios. |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1391 Registered: May-09 | PC PSUs have come a long way from what they used to be, being capable of suppling power for a quad sli video card configuration plus an overclocked processor for say one hour looks sustained enough to me. Not to say that a PC PSU is designed for an unpredictable load like an amp is but it seems to me that if the PSU set can meet peak amplifier power arguably could hold. It's just that is never good advise to suggest a configuration that have been never tested for a particular purpose different of that for which something has been designed for, it could lead to unexpected results. |
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New member Username: Thesoundguy101Post Number: 5 Registered: Mar-12 | @Glasswolf ALRIGHT, COOL INFORMATION TO KNOW. THANKS. SO TECHNICALLY I ONLY NEED ONE 750 W. <<< ORIGINALLY WHICH I HAD THOUGHT TO FULLY POWER THE AMP AND TO GET SUB BASS WOULD REQUIRE MORE ADEQUITE POWER IS WHY I WANTED A 1500W. OR TWO 750W. JUST TO POWER OVER AND GET BASS.. SO ONLY ONE 750 IS WHAT UR SAYING RIGHT..... I LOOKED AT THE WEBSITE. |
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New member Username: Thesoundguy101Post Number: 6 Registered: Mar-12 | @Joe1234 THE RESULT I'M WANTING IS BOOM, BOOM BOOM... THE ONLY OTHER RESULT WHICH CAN HAPPEN IS FRY MY SUBS BECAUSE NOT ENOUGH POWER SUPPLY OR FRY MY AMPLIFIER. AND THIS "IEI PIP1312" Input: AC 120V 60 Hz Output: DC 12V 1000 mA Short Circuit Protected Rev2 Made In TAIWAN JUST DOES NOT DO IT FOR ME. to a certain point it cuts out. if I repeat this I will fry my amp indeffinately... |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1393 Registered: May-09 | I have not reviewed the specs of the power supply Glasswolf suggest so I will just trust that he did. Peak to average of a sine wave is 0.707 manufacturers usually rate peak to average for audio amplifiers at 0.5. You are saying your amp will deliver 1500W peak power into 1 ohm? I don't have a link to your amplifier to verify this so I have to trust you on that. Neither do I know if it is class AB or Class D or whatever, if it is class D then to put out 750 W average power it will draw from the power supply: 750 / 0.85 = 882W I don't know if for whatever reason it will never reach that or not, for safety I would place a 882W minimum power supply. And as for the 1000mA power supply you are describing sorry but there is no PC that I am aware of that will run on 1000 milliampere, in any case It is not to be compared with true high power PC PSUs. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, South Carolina America Post Number: 14594 Registered: Dec-03 | Joe with that much ooutput it's almost guaranteed to be a class D amplifier, so figure 80% efficiency, thus 750 watts would yield a current draw of 75A. class D amps make calculations so simple Yes I'm well aware of the design of the SLI/Crossfire capable switching power supplies with multiple 12V rails made today, The main issue with them is that they lack the reserve to supply sudden peak demands. They just don't have the capacitance to handle that sort of shock load. A computer's current draw is fairly static, so you don't have the massive fluctuations that you do with amplifiers. Your other option here would be to just buy a plate amplifer from P-E, and build a home theater subwoofer enclosure. Make a decent hoome stereo sub. I've done this in the past as well. |
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