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New member Username: Basher69Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-12 | Hi, newbie here, I have a BMW 316i coupe 1995. I know I can put 6x9 in the rear shelf, but can anyone tell me what size speakers I need for the doors and the front foot well and will I need adapters to fit them. I have a Magnat Century 780 amp (4x130w + 1x260w output). Can anybody suggest some speaker plans to go for? On a smaller budget and not looking for massive volume, jsut a nice sound. Lastly what is the difference between Peak power and RMS power. So if my amp is 130w per channel, what peak and Rms am I looking for? Thanks for any help in advance} |
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Gold Member Username: KaerfplSpencerport, NY USA Post Number: 1408 Registered: Jun-06 | Hey there James. Just out of curiosity, where did you find out that a 6x9" Speaker will fit in the Rear Shelf? Are you assuming that they are 6x9" or did you physically look and pull out the Speaker and it was a 6x9" Speaker? Only reason why I ask, is because after doing some research, the Speaker Sizes for this vehicle goes as followed: Kick Panel: 5.25" Speaker Front Door: 3.5" Speaker Rear Shelf: 4" Speaker I checked out the BMW Forums, and it appears that a 6.5" Speaker can be fitted into the Rear Shelf, however it requires some fabrication to do so. I did not run into any threads or documents that stated a 6x9" will be able to fit normally... As far as your other questions goes, the Kick Panel may require some fabrication or a new custom Kick Panel to be installed, depending on what type of Speaker you purchase. If you are not interested in doing custom work or buying a new Kick Panel, I would suggest pulling out the stock Speaker, measure the depth, and look into a new aftermarket Speaker off that information. Also, I understand that "Magnat Audio" is not a product sold in the US, however I just cannot find any information what so ever on the Century 780 you mentioned above. The only Amplifier that comes close to the Watt ratings you posted would be the Magnat Audio: Rock 8000. So before we, or at least myself, are going to start throwing out suggestions regarding what Speakers to look into, is there any Link or URL to the Amplifier you have? I just find it odd that a 4-Channel Amplifier has the ability to go from 4-channel to a mono block The keep things simple between RMS and Max Watts, always read and use what the rated RMS Watts is. RMS is the "true" amount of Watts that an Amplifier will be doing. Max Watts means nothing... |
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New member Username: Basher69Post Number: 2 Registered: Jan-12 | Cheers Joe The only reason I know you can put 6x9 in rear shelf is cos I replaced them few years ago, the car does come with the smaller speakers, but they sell the adapter to fit the 6x9s. As far as info on the amp goes, I found nothing online, but the info on front of amp is as follows: Variable Subwoofer Filter & High Pass Filter. 4 x 130 + 1 x 260 Watts Max . 5/4/3 Channel The inputs for the amp are either low input (av connection) or high input (a 6 block connection) I have only ever used the av type connections, what is the hi input one for? Regarding the RMS Watts, does that mean if I have an amp with 130w output per channel, I want to be buying speakers of capability of RMS 130+ watts? Thanks for all other info, really do appreciate it. Going to try and do it all myself, then when I blow it up, take to a store and get them to do it properly ;) |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1177 Registered: May-09 | Check that the numbers you have for the amp are RMS watts before deciding on speakers, the RMS rating of your speakers should be around the same as the output the amp for a specific channel, the higher power channel is for a subwoofer, make sure to use one! You don't need to care about the high level inputs, are used to source the amplifier directly with the output of the speakers when a head unit does not have RCA type low level inputs. Use of high level inputs results in reduced sound quality. And watch out, blowing car audio stuff is easier than you may think and the audio shop can't do much with blown stuff.. so be very careful wih your install and ask any question.. you know it can get pretty expensive! |
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Gold Member Username: KaerfplSpencerport, NY USA Post Number: 1409 Registered: Jun-06 | Ah, ok. That makes sense with the 6x9's. Well, you got your other Speaker sizes above ^ As far as the Amplifier goes, it's clear now to see that what you have is a 5-channel Amplifier. 4-channels are used for Speakers, and 1-channel is used for a Subwoofer. I am still unable to find any information regarding this Amplifier however from what you wrote, it's clear that both the Watts ratings that you posted are the Max Watts and not RMS Watts. After looking at all of Magnat Audio's current Amplifiers, I would say it's safe to say that the Amplifier you have is putting out anywhere from 25-35 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms for your Speakers and 100-115 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms for your Subwoofer. With this information, you are going to want to find Speakers for you BMW that have a RMS rating inbetween 25-35 Watts RMS. To be honest, with looking through 3.5", 5.25", and 6x9" Speakers, it's going to be hard to find any Speaker above 5.25" with an RMS rating that low and a 3.5" Speaker with that high of a RMS rating. The only logical thing would be to either do one of few things: 1. Remove the 6x9's and drop in to 4" Speakers to the Rear Shelf, and wire the 4" and 5.25" Speakers to the Amplifier @ 4 Ohms. Wire the 3.5" Door Speakers to the Head Unit. 2. Install the 3.5" and 5.25" Speakers to the Amplifier @ 4 Ohms and install the 6x9" Speakers onto the channel for the Subwoofer at 2 Ohms, and hope it doesn't damage anything. 3. Get a newer and more powerfull Amplifier... |
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New member Username: Basher69Post Number: 3 Registered: Jan-12 | Cheers Joe1234, that cleared up the high input thing for me Ok, sounds like the old amp I have has outlived its useful purpose then. Sounds like time to put it to one side and start from scratch. I can live with that With this in mind, what speakers should I put where regarding the three possitions, ie do i need mid range, full range, tweeters etc and if so where I know I know, i really do know nothing lol but I do appreciate your time |
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Gold Member Username: KaerfplSpencerport, NY USA Post Number: 1410 Registered: Jun-06 | I think the real questions that need answers to would be: 1. What is your budget? 2. Are you just installing Speakers, or a Subwoofer as well? |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1179 Registered: May-09 | Your amp should be good as long you use the RCA low level inputs. I don't know what's available as far as brand names at your location, can you provide any local websites addresses to see what you have available? |
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New member Username: Basher69Post Number: 4 Registered: Jan-12 | My budget is probably only £200, doubt that will stretch to a sub as well. so may have to add that at a later date. The website I have been looking at which seems to have decent pricing is: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/ Will prob be gettin new head unit too soon as the display on mine has broken, but that wont make much difference to what I chose now will it? |
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Gold Member Username: KaerfplSpencerport, NY USA Post Number: 1411 Registered: Jun-06 | With that budget and strickly using that Website, this is what I would go with: Alpine PMX-F640: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpine-pmx-f640.html Alpine SPG-69C2: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpine-spg-69c2.html Alpine SPG-13C2: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpine-spg-13c2.html With this setup alone, you should have some good sound even without the 3.5" Speakers. Consider it a weight reduction! And no, the Head Unit itself wouldn't matter on what type of Speakers/Subwoofers/Amplifiers you purchase however, if you do install a Subwoofer at a later time, you are going to want to make sure that the Head Unit you purchase has a minumum of 2 RCA outputs. |
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New member Username: Basher69Post Number: 5 Registered: Jan-12 | Thanks for the great advice and your time Joe. When I get the money together for a sub, would I need to put a 2nd amp in to power it and would you advise putting the 3.5s in aswell or are they not nessesary? In the mean time should I keep the door speakers wired to the head unit or would that worsen the overall quality. If it is not asking to much could you recommend sub/amp/3.5 for the future? Also is a standard car battery enough to run two amps off etc? |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1180 Registered: May-09 | All your speakers should be powered from the amp, as you say for maintaining sound quality. The 3.5"s are not necessary for most people, you would need extra amp channels to power them, but you could go for component speakers in the front, which improve a lot over coaxial speakers, you can place your tweeters anywhere you want. I would suggest to look at this US based site that ships wordwide, I am unsure which would cost you more but prices on that site you referenced are very high: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/ |
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New member Username: Basher69Post Number: 6 Registered: Jan-12 | Cheers Joe 1234, sorry to sound so ignorant, but what do you mean by component speakers. Will look at the site, everything in England is pricey, you would faint if you saw our petrol(gas) prices. |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1181 Registered: May-09 | Like all these: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/speakers-component-systems/ |
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Gold Member Username: KaerfplSpencerport, NY USA Post Number: 1412 Registered: Jun-06 | Before thinking about adding onto your current system, see how it sounds/performs first. You may just be satisfied with the way it is. However, if you do want to make a improvement onto what we've already talked about, see if you can save up some extra money and purchase 5.25" Component Speakers instead of 5.25" Coaxial Speakers. Here are a few good examples from off of that website that will go good with the Alpine Amplifier listed above: Focal Access 130 A1: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/focal-access-130-a1.html Hertz Dieci DSK 130: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/hertz-dieci-dsk-130.html Alpine SPG-13CS:http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpine-spg-13cs.html Before worrying about adding another Amplifier and a new Subwoofer, there's one big factor to consider, which is your electrical system. Your BMW 316i comes stock with a 80A Alternator. To keep things simple, you should be able to have up to 1000 Watts RMS before needing to worry about upgrading your electrical system. This would mean purchasing a newer and more powerfull Alternator, a bigger battery and bigger wire or as we all call it here on eCoustics, a "Big 3" upgrade. All of this can become very expensive, depending on the vehicle. For an example, for my Nissan 300ZX, I spent over $700 alone in just the Alternator, Battery and 0 Gauge wiring. So, if this isn't something you are interested in dumping hundreds of dollars into, lets keep things small and simple. Once again, if I had to be strickly using that website and a budget around the same area, this is would I personally would look into: Kicker EX350.2: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/kicker-ex350.2.html JL Audio 12WX: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jl-12wx.html Not the best equipment, but it will get the job done. The Kicker Amplifier is a 2-channel Amplifier, that you will be bridging into a 4 Ohm Load to get the highest RMS Watts output. However, because the BMW 316i charging system is only 12 Volts and not 14 Volts, as well as this being an A/B Class Amplifier, it should bring down the actual Wattage it will be producing to a more reasonable area for the JL Audio Subwoofer. Overall, this plus my suggestions above combined shouldn't have a problem with your stock electrical system. However, if you would like to get a better Battery, just find something that offers the highest CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). There really is no need to go out an purchase a high end Battery unless your looking to compete. |
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New member Username: Basher69Post Number: 7 Registered: Jan-12 | Ok, Think the final decision will be on the line of 6x9, 5.25 compnent with amp for now. next step new head unit 3rd step sub and 2nd amp Cheers both of you, Hopefully the manual with the amp and speakers will give enough info for me to install myself, if not, have to bite the bulelt and pay the man. Only last thing, how good quality speaker wire do I need to use, as I know it can go from cheap to extremely expensive? |
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Gold Member Username: KaerfplSpencerport, NY USA Post Number: 1413 Registered: Jun-06 | Ah, good question. Speaker wire plays a very important roll on any system. After learning myself first hand what bad and/cheap wires can do, I personally always run Kicker Hyperflex wire. It's not cheap, but it's the best wire out there in my opinion. The web site you provided does not carry Kicker wire, so here is a link to an Amplifier wiring kit on sonic for the Alpine PMX-F640 Amplifier above: Kicker ZCK84: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17765_Kicker-ZCK84-09ZCK84.html |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1182 Registered: May-09 | If you have any questions regarding the install, go ahead and post! |
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New member Username: CatherinebPost Number: 2 Registered: Sep-12 | If you live someplace that seasons show up, you understand how essential an all-wheel drive car is in the winter. I wanted an automobile that would for me, so I found a site that let me compare. It showed me a car dealership in Houston that sold me the best BMW I have ever owned. |