New system setup
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New member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-11 | Hello everyone. I am new to the forum and hope to get a few pointers,recommendations, and suggestions on how to get my new audio setup off and going and in the right direction. Well now, I have 2 hdc3 12 d2 subs and a Pipe 3k. I was thinking about selling the Pipe and get a bc2000 for cleaner power and run it at .5 ohm. The box design I have in mind will be a 3.5 cubes (AQ's smallest size req.) with 10 inch aeroports on each side of the box. All will be in the trunk of a '97 Riviera. Any recs or suggs on this idea of a system? The rest of the setup for my system is in my profile. Btw, I am a noobster.:oD Thx guys... |
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New member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-11 | Btw ya'll, i will be looking for mostly spl but some sq as well. Let's say a port tuning of about about 34-35 hz perhaps? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 908 Registered: May-09 | The ap30001?? will put 1500W per side at 1 ohm so it seems you are going for a lesser power amp... |
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New member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 3 Registered: Nov-11 | I know but the bc2000 will do 2700+ @ .5 with cleaner power. It won't be a noticable difference in output between the two. Besides, this will be used as a daily setup. So i'm gonna need clean watts. Heard the AP3k gets alot of distortion over 2500w. |
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New member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 4 Registered: Nov-11 | Bump |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 910 Registered: May-09 | No problems with the Crescendo but you can get distortion from various sources. gain settings, power, power transmission, you have all that checked right?? Also you mention you intend to design a box 3.5@34-35 which also leaves me thinking what are you using now. And most importantly what do you want changed. |
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New member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 5 Registered: Nov-11 | Lol thanks for replying bro. Well, the AQ's are new and so is the Pipe and neither the amp nor subs have ever been installed. What I have in my car now are two 15 Q power deluxes sealed but i'm about to sell those along with the Pipe,Pioneer premier HU,4 Alpine coaxial speakers,and 2 brand new Selenium dt150 super tweeters to a get a quick and tempting sale so I can get another amp(s). The change is that I want clean,accurate,power along with much spl,smashing lows,and want to sound good while getting them. I was thinking about selling the AQ's as well to get a single hdc4 12 but it will be even more costly to ship them. Btw, if Cresendo don't return any of my calls by Friday after T-day, then I will be going back to what I orginally enticipated, ordering two Lanzar opti2000d's with a matching opti250x4 to run the opti components I already have coming. So, where do you think this idea will get me and was my explaination clear enough for you give me some good recs? Thanks for you help bro. |
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New member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 6 Registered: Nov-11 | Btw, i'm kinda new at mostly everything but have learn alot over reading different forums. Lol I have yet to even build my first box. This new system I want to setup will be the most powerful system I ever owned and will pretty much have heard in a trunk car. Lol |
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New member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 7 Registered: Nov-11 | Oh and yes, i'm aware of the power settings and gain levels. Just wanna make sure that my setup will be just right the first time after I get them installed. |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 911 Registered: May-09 | Ok you have many options going there, so let me make a list of thoughts, you probably know all of this but I would like to see what you think: On power a 250A alt and a kinetic or xs power battery or something like that, also a big 3 and probably 2/0 lines to the back all tightly connected. This is because any test you do on bad power will be a failure, also there are many people complining of equipment because of this, even amplifier clipping damage can occur due to bad power. The design of the enclosure is also critical to performance and to avoid damage to the subs so whatever subs you end up with you need to build a great custom enclosure for them. Do you have some enclosure dims in mind?? (HxWxD). Also which pioneer premier you have and if you have any problems with it?? |
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New member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 8 Registered: Nov-11 | Lol the Pioneer came out of my sister's car. She bought another car had her alpine installed in it and had the pioneer taken out. But nothing's wrong with it. I just want to sell it with the other things to make a complete system for anyone who buys them. Don't remember the exact model and out of town so I can't check. I believe it went for about a 'lil over a $100 new. Btw, the alt I will be getting will be a 220a from DB Electrical and the batts I have are a kinetik hc800 and 2 hc1400's. As for a box, I may need a little help with choosing what kind,size etc. for the subs and the trunk space also to fit my needs in which I previously described. Lol I just wanna be loud and sound good doing it like every other basshead:oD |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 914 Registered: May-09 | Ok so who wants to have a low end, old, used HU working or not, get rid of it, I would recommend a new Pioneer or Alpine HU. Your power is good as far as you describe it, just make sure the big 3 and your power lines are professionally installed, I would use 2/0 power lines. On amplifiers have you considered the MMATS 0.5 ohm stable?? I would take one of those any day over anything from Lanzar. Anyways although Audiopipe is not great, I would test it real well before getting rid of it. I wouldn't go on rumors to make decisions. The AQ subs are nice SPL subs that are seriously underrated so I don't think you have a problem there. Obviously there are many subs out there.. if you have the space 15"s could have been considered which are usually 3 dB louder than 12"s. The enclosure is very important if you would like a suggestion let me know the dimensions you have available, I guess you have a big trunk. Also let me know, have you considered deadening?? you can gain up to 3 dB SPL just by doing that. |
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New member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 9 Registered: Nov-11 | Good morning Joe. Well I have a Alpine cda-117 already installed in my car. The Pioneer is just something to add with the rest of the things I am selling. I never personally used it. I do understand about testing the AP30001d first and may try it. As for the Lanzars, they are opti's and also .5 ohm stable each. But I assume you would know what's best so i'll try to be a good listener lol. Mmats....heard about them but don't know much about them. Which one of their amps would you suggest for my subs and hom much are they? How's their sound and build quality? I believe I read somewhere that they are top notch. Now, car's my trunk (97 Buick Riviera) has a 17"4 cargo capacity. Haven't had it measured and i'm out of town at the moment so that's all I know for now. Btw, I do have Dynamat door,trunk,and license plate kits peel&seal. Will have it installed when I'm finished with getting everything I need. I also have all the necessary electrical including the Kicker big3 wiring kit. Wanna go for a couple of Knuconceptz 4 and 0 guage wiring kits as well. |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 918 Registered: May-09 | Ok Chuck let's see: The CDA-117 is excellent HU not a single word more about HUs. Your comps are already purchased so also nothing to add. Dumped the Alpines but you will have your reasons. The Mmats 3000.05 would be the one, truly efficient, and low distortion, then I would take the Crescendo if you can get it, and the Lanzars if all of the above fails, also you can get dual 1.5k 1 ohm stable amps if you have space to waste. Also whatever amplifier you get for your speakers I would prefer class A/B for cleaner sound. To some it doesn't make a difference but I am just saying. Since you don't know the dims for your box now this can be taken care of later, The airports are good choice to get a smaller box, slots are better if you don't want to spend on proper bi-flanged airports. Dual chamber enclosures arguably improves efficiency. Hard to help you I guess, since you have done your homework well but let me know if I can do anything else for you. |
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New member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 10 Registered: Nov-11 | Ok I checked on the Mmats amps and they are way too expensive. They are one of those brands out there that charges a dollar per watt and I just won't spend that much on an amp. Now as for Cresendo, it's all on Navid. He has until this coming Friday to contact me or I will go with the Lanzars. Now back to the Lanzars. I was thinking that they would be ideal because for 1...they're least expensive. 2. They use top quality parts and supposely have great sq. 3. They are true beasts and are built to last. 4. Getting 2 of the opti2000d's can be a payoff because not only just one of them can make a single system loud, they provide up to 2000w rms @ .5 ohm which they are stable at also. Make sense my friend? The opti lines however can compete with some of the best brands out there with proper installation. Still I will have to agree with you on them being my last choice though lol. Now the box dimz. I can always use your help at least until I can get one built. Btw brother, what do you have against the opti lines? They may be one of my choices of amps but don't be afraid to advise me not to get them. You may know something about them that I don't. Oh and yea, the amp I chose for the components other than the Cresendo 1000c4, was the opti250x4 simply because it puts out over 200w rms per channel at just 4 ohms and each of the speakers (4) are rated at over 200w rms each including a set of opti super tweeters also at 200w rms each. So I considered the Lanzar opti amp to be more ideal and it is a class a/b amp. So what do you think my friend? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 919 Registered: May-09 | Things like this can induce afterthoughts: https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/155428.html And then they get positive reviews, and then negative elsewhere.. Personally, for me, It would be great to hear from you that you did great with them. I am always for giving the benefit of the doubt. Now when I have to advise I start in the order I trust best.. so if you ask me I tell...but in the end man mine is just an opinion more.. the next guy could just tell you the opposite, so you have to make your mind on what you have heard OR much better get to test their stuff before buying.. Sooo... if I can help you with something let me know when the time is appropriate... |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 11 Registered: Nov-11 | Lol I hear ya brother. Well let me say this, if i decide not to go with the Lanzars,and can't get the Sendo, then what would If I were to go with two AQ1200d's? That ought to make a kickazz setup with the hdc3's eh? Hell, I seen what just one of them little beasts can do on a single hdc3 12 sub. I will just have to wait and see when my mind is made up if either I would go with the Opti's or the bc2000. Btw, I read that post in your link before and I can't help but to wonder if the quality has changed on the new opti2000d amps. The good reviews I read on them were dated back to '06 to '09. Don't know if things have changed with them from back then rather it's good or bad. Hmmmmmm! Well if I have anymore questions, I will definately give you a shout and when i get my system up and going, you'll be the first to know along with a video. Lol |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 921 Registered: May-09 | Ok Chuck, keep researching your stuff, I think 1 1200D per side will do great and yes let me know if I can help you with something else anytime. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 12 Registered: Nov-11 | Ok bro, will do and thx. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 15 Registered: Nov-11 | Just bought myself an old school but new Autotek mean machine 4000.1d amp. Just what I needed. So much for the Lanzars,Cresendo,and Audioque amps. Now if I can find a powerful old school Autotek 4 channel at a good price to match the 4k, that would be sweet |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 928 Registered: May-09 | Old School always makes sense, luck in finding the 4 channel. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 16 Registered: Nov-11 | Lol hey Joe, what's up? I hear ya on "old school" but I think it's just one of their new lines they made to look like the old school version. The s o b weighs a hefty 41 pounds and it's huge. I heard a few folks say that they had their's clamped at about 4400w rms @ 1 ohms. I have yet,to see if mine can do at least close to those numbers. Lol Anyway, I will use my only at 2 ohms. They're rated at 2800w rms @ 2 ohms but it may actually do around 3200. More than enough for me lol. Btw, I went on and ordered the the Quart onx4.150 4 channel amp. No need to be looking for anything else right now. But it surely would have been nice to run across a good old school 4 channel Tek though. Seen a few but didn't want them. I don't want this thread to die just yet so i'm going to ask you this.......what do you think of the Autotek mm4000.1d (old school)? Ever heard 'em or experienced 'em? Thanks! |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 934 Registered: May-09 | You must have gotten this then: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24079_Autotek-MM4000.1D-R-B.html#tabs Never actually heard OS amps from Autotek, but OS orion and hifonics and some others that I actually heard really put out some mighty clean power. Autotek is now part of maxxsonics and I really don't know how they are doing, MBQuart, part of the same group now, do clean rated power so you will do get those150Wx4. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 17 Registered: Nov-11 | Hi Joe. That does look like the one I ordered. Anyway, Autotek does have OS amps and I read that most folks who owned and are using them gave good reviews about them. IDK if Maxxonics had actually built the one in your link or not but I know the ones that are black with the sorrounding blue LED's around the heat sinks are totally garbage. I would post a link of the one I have so you'll be able to get a better view on it but i've been posting from my android phone. Lol Computer is at home with my sister and I been working over the road and away from for over a month. Oh BTW, what iPOD unit would you suggest for me to use for my system that doesn't cost much and have a nice bit of features, let's say for about $100 or maybe a little more? Oh and one other thing bro, how in the hell can I edit my profile from my phone. Lol :oD |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 937 Registered: May-09 | For about 100?? well not much. Depending on how you connect this would have been a good deal, were selling for $114: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834230029R A lot of subpar chinese products can do the job but I wouldn't recommend any of them. Follow this link to edit your profile: https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/off-topic/698618.html Hope you can review that amp when you get it, there is a single guy on here that has a low end new Autotek amp he never complained about it but who knows everyone's ears are different. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 18 Registered: Nov-11 | Good morning Joe. I appreciate the info. I will just have to search for some good deals on a new iPOD that's all. Well I don't her many complain about the low end Tek either other than it's being overrated. I just won't do the LE Tek. My subs will laugh at those and they only do maybe half of their rated power. Btw, i'll post a review once I get my system installed. Still waiting for the amps to come along with more wiring and some time off to get them all installed. Oh yeah, one other question. I've been told that if I go with aeroports, then I can go with a smaller box. But how much smaller? AQ's smallest box requirements for their 12" subs are 3.5 cubic ft. Will the subs sound crappy if I were to put them in either a 2.75 or just 3.0 cube box with aeroports? Know anyone who has put 2 hdc3 12's in boxes smaller than the 3.5 cube requirement and still wang? Lol Thx! |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 942 Registered: May-09 | Ok here are some useful threads related to your questions: https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/580147.html https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/583385.html https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/567114.html My take is that you should stay within recommended volumes, the airports can save space in two ways, first their thickness is almost nothing, the second one is that bi-flanged ones will stay silent at higher airflow speeds than slots, so, you can go for a somewhat lesser port cross-sectional area and therefore length. I think that the best way to know is doing the math on both. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 19 Registered: Nov-11 | Thanks for the info dude. I will keep that in mind. Well I spoke with the guy at db-r Electronics where I ordered my Tek from and he told me that the amp is being refurbished now and it is,indeed an oldie-but-goodie. It was made back I believe he said in '03 but still in like new condition(as for the cosmetics). I told him what kind of subs I have and asked what can I expect from that amp. He said it's huge an quite a monster. He also said that I better have the electrical to handle it and expect some reconing. Lol He said that amp would be delivering about 2k to each sub I may be getting more than I need with that amp. Oh well, that's what 2k rms subs are for lol. I'll get 'em if I have to.;o) Btw, are you still into car audio bro? If so, whatcha workin' with? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 946 Registered: May-09 | Ok Chuck so I checked going from 3.6 to 3cuft and it turns out that you would loose about 0.5dB, the green curve over the yellow. The spike is at 40Hz:  And yes those subs can do well above rated but 2K would be pushing it. As for myself I have taken a break, I hate big boxes like you seem to do.. but I might get back.. when I get bored enough of small power.. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 20 Registered: Nov-11 | What's up brother, morning to ya. Yeah, I am not to fond of big boxes. We all love our space and a big box just get in the way of everything. I will just have to make the best of it. Lol As for the subs and amp, I will have to keep the gains and boost levels low. I think it'll be ok as long as I don't go up on the control levels. Btw,I don't know how old you are but if you are still young, you'll get back into thumpin'&bumpin' lol As for me, I might be old enough to be your father but I still like living loud and pimpin' my rides. Lol |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 950 Registered: May-09 | I think you have a chance to go with 3 cuft internal, the HDC3 are not all about low but all about loud, with SQL is much harder, anyways to make sure to go to the SPL sections on many high traffic forums like CACO,SMD,DIYMA to get some more input but anyhow let me know if you have any questions. will be glad to reply. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 21 Registered: Nov-11 | Morning Joe. Well I am looking at other subs over the net and the FI Q subs came to mind. I will call FI Audio and require more about their subs and see what size boxes they require for their Q models. I can sell the Hdc3's along with the ap30001d and may get like either two 12's or three 10's. I took a glance at their site and seen that all of their Q subs are rated @ 1500w rms. I also read in forums over and over again how their SQ is superb and how it compare to JL Audio's w7 subs. Who knows, when I get home I might put the AQ's up for sale. Thanks again bro. |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 957 Registered: May-09 | Ok the Fi Qs have about the same space requirements as the HDC3s (1.8 to 2.5 cuft per sub ) and will let you tune them lower. Being SQL stuff though I wouldn't expect them to get much louder than the HDC3s despite the increased power handling (in fact I have to check but the HDC3s could be still louder and hit harder). The Fi Qs can sound lower if propery tuned and sure enough cleaner. From Fi you can take a look at their SPL stuff, the BTL N3 can handle 3k per sub!! Or the N2. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 22 Registered: Nov-11 | Hey bro, whatsup. Well I guess the FI Q is out then. What about the SSA xcon 12's? I think read that they only require a 2.75 box for 2 subs. That'll be perfect and they're not that pricy. I heard they can get very loud and sound very good doing it. Probably not as loud as the hdc3's but,close and,they will be able to handle a little over 2k watts to each sub for daily. The hdc3's can't. Got those on my mind and the DC xl 10's or 12's depending on their required box size. The DC's are little more expensive than the xcons though. Lol What do you think? Btw, I am suprised no one else has chimmed in on this thread yet. Lol |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 23 Registered: Nov-11 | Dude,pluck that last post,i made. I just followed what said and checked out FI and their n3 12 sub. That bish looks badazz. Lol Ok, this where you can work your wonders and get me hyped. Tell me out of your experience in car audio what I can expect from this setup.... The n3 in a 2.5 cube, the Tek pushin' it at about 4k or a little more(depending on if the amp is UR or not and if that Sub will handle it),and from the trunk of my car. What kind of port would you use with this setup? What kind of kind of reaction I can expect from folks when they hear it and how far away would anyone feel the bass? Just tell me everything from your experience and don't hold back....hahaha! Hell mane, I can buy that son-of-a-booga upfront without having to sell the hdc3's and the Pipe first.;) Over all bro, tell me how I need to prepare for this kind of power. Oh and yes, I love over doing it. Lolz |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 24 Registered: Nov-11 | Dang it, I just read that the n3 isn't all made for daily. I also read that it won't do anything for the lows and it will be hard to get them to play well below 40hz. I guess i'm gonna have to scratch that one too I will find something soon that'll fit my needs though. Maybe the xcons isn't such a bad idea after all. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 25 Registered: Nov-11 | Ok, I just read up on the FI n2's and they seem like they are badazz too. I wish that my internet sig was good in this area so I can watch a video on them but it sucks. Anyway, what kind of wonders would you think the n2 12's would do for me? Lol |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 962 Registered: May-09 |  Ok Chuck this is a comparison between the Fi BTL N2 (red 2K) and the HDC3 (green 1k) one can see that one way or the other the Fi wins. But since it's falling below baseline at that port tuning then that means it's made to work at higher frequency, not the HDC3, it peaks well above baseline. If you are going for daily to SPL the HDC3s are right on. The DCXL would be about the same but with higher power hadling (1500W) in fact is specfied for 1.5 cubes ported. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 26 Registered: Nov-11 | Morning Joe. So what you are telling me is that i'll be ok with the hdc3's? If that's so, I will hold on to them and try 'em out on the Tek. The space I have will just have to suffice I guess. Btw, I asked around on yahoo yesterday if the btl's and the hdc3's can handle 4k daily to each sub and gotten a few answers saying that they would and then some. One guy by the name of "Dragon's Breath" told me he had a buddy that ran 2 hdc3's on 5300w daily with no problems. They must have been the aluminum coils and tweaked. I wouldn't put my coppers through that sh.t lol. Come to think of it, the Tek would only put out anywhere from 2800 to 3600w at 2 ohms so i'm good there. I have also been given props by someone online implying that the OS mm4000.1d is a bad motherf.....! Lol |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 967 Registered: May-09 | Ok Chuck it's all about exploring, take a look at these comparison all subs are 1.5cuft@38Hz :  Green HDC3 12" @1000W RMS Red DC Audio XL @1500W RMS Yellow SSA XCON 12" @1750W RMS If power is no object I would go with the SSA XCON it can work a bit lower and it has SQ qualities others won't match. The HDC3 is very efficient at resonance almost reaching the others on higher power, The XL is more SPLish and would work better tuned higher, another candidate could be the Fi BL (1500W RMS) I will take a look at it next. The HDC3 can be overdriven to 1800W each no problem but I wouldn't bet on much more. But as I told you before power handling is on the enclosure design as well. And good news that you've got game with the TEK! |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 27 Registered: Nov-11 | Lol whatup Joster, how's everything? Well check this out, I called the guy of db-r Electronics again and asked more about the Tek. I asked if was the old Zed made one and he said no, it was the Korean version. He said Zed was not what everyone made them out to because they didn't have the technology that today's amps have and they used to get real hot. But they did however put out a (lol @ me saying "put out") a little more than rated but they only made amps up to about 1500w rms. Anyway, he said the one I ordered are the best of the mm4000.1d's and the most powerful. He also suggested that I should dump the hdc3's because they are mostly burp/comp subs and will eventually blow with that much power on them. He implied that they are built with cheap, Chinese parts that does not hold up to heat that well (hmmmmmm!). He recommended me to the Sundown z v3 series and said that they are the best on the market for daily because no other sub has the best in cooling than they do. Well I don't want any Sundown products because they are too friggin' common and every Jo-blow (no offense lol) have them. Hell, I think I'm going with the xcons dude. I believe they'll take the power that amp has and beat hard and with good SQ as well. They are rated at 1750w to I believe 2000-2100w rms. Far as top SPL,SQ,and big power handling goes, I don't think that there's any other sub out there that can compare in their price range. Any bro, good lookin' out |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 969 Registered: May-09 | Yes it seems so and can be run a bit lower if you need to, also I would agree with that guy on the HDC3s taking that much heat. I checked the BL and it needs a higher tuning just like the others, the SP4 (start with 15") and the SSD (1K only) wont do and the Q as above, don't know about those sundowns maybe I will check them out anyways. And with the news on the amp looks like you are getting there. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 28 Registered: Nov-11 | Hey bro, what's up wicha? You know dude, i think that I will gonna hold on to the AQ's and see how they perform on that amp. That way if I blow one of them, I will just have to order myself a set of the aluminum reconing kits or however they're called. Lol That ought to solve the overstressing problem of those subs. Anyway bro, thanks for your help. |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 970 Registered: May-09 | lol, I was saying to myself.. I'd just be curious to listen to the stuff I just bought before selling it..the pipe as well since I think to be honest that not even oneself knows one's ears all the time.. I think the HDC3 are excellent subs, I'd just would think about it before pushing the full power of that Tek into them.. So anyways let me know if they just went boom! For those two HDC3 I would go 3cuft@38Hz and set the subsonic filter at 30Hz. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 29 Registered: Nov-11 | Ok Joe, I got you. Well I think what suggested about the box tuning is fine but what about AQ's lowest box recommendation of 3.5 cubes? Will 3.0 cubes do them any justice? Oh and what type of port you think I should go with, slot or aero? Btw, I may just keep the Pipe and have whichever amp sitting around until I can put either one to use. Hell I might wait until my taxes and by a suv or something on the side of what I already have and either buy another Pipe 3k along even bigger subs (15's or 18's) or use the Tek for whatever new setup I may build. Either way, I still win;o) |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 975 Registered: May-09 | Hi Chuck, optimal internal volume should be as specified by AQ but if you need the box to be smaller you have to compromise performance a bit, it's neglegible loss of loudness going to 3 cuft and could help the subs to take more power, regarding the port you can use either, the aeros will further reduce box size however large cross-sectional area slots can keep the inside of the box cooler, as the coils heat up their resistance goes up and that lowers your output. I also noticed that the HDC3 also comes with aluminum coils for an extra. I am going to show you a design from another site, I have a number of problems with it but will give you an idea of the box size for proper operation of the subs: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/397725-need-bo x-western-nc.html I would at least thicken the baffle surface to 1.5" and add a center brace to that design. And I also think that at some point you have to buy the car for the audio and not the other way! |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 30 Registered: Nov-11 | Hey Joe what's up? I called AQ today and spoke with the new guy "Kevin" and he told me that I should go with a box size that would be best for my trunk and for the subs. He also said that slot ports would be best and that I should go with a 5 cube box but I told him that I doubt if that size box would fit in my trunk. For as the aluminum coil recones, he said that those and the coppers aren't much different but the aluminum will make heat dissipate faster but only for a shorter period of time. He said that for daily, coppers are the way to go! Well i'm just going to have to wait and see what happens after the install When I get home, I will measure my trunk and see what would be the largest box I can go with and still be able to have room left for 3 batts,my two big amps,and a few other things. Btw bro, what other threads you be on besides this one? Hell, I'm surprised no else joined in on the conversation lol |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 978 Registered: May-09 | WOW. 5 cubes internal is the top volume they recommend (2.5 per sub), that would be a rather huge box adding all displacements, about 7.5 cubes external using a higher cross-sectional area slot. Go here to access the root of the car audio forums: https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/4.html Look around to see what else I post, but if you want a lot of input better go to a high traffic forum like CACO you will get 20 guys giving opinions, in fact they have an enclosure building forum there. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 31 Registered: Nov-11 | Lol thanks dude. |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 32 Registered: Nov-11 | Joe,Joe,Joe, what's happening with it? You know what dude, I know I keep changing my damn mind but I think the AQ's have to go. When 'ol boy at Audioque suggested that I should go with a 5 cube box, that was kind of a turn off. It seems that their subwoofers are designed only for large enclosures hence getting the best performace out of them. I personally think that the only downside to AQ's sub lines is their box size requirements but still are awesome subs. Now, the xcons are still on my mind but I do love the way the DC xl 10's look and I heard that particular series are straight up badazz. Ok, tell me this bro, which would be loudest and hit the lowest, two xl 10's on 4k or one lvl 5 12 on 4k? Which in your honest opinion you would think that will sound the best and which of the setup would you perfer to add to your system? Btw, the DC's are most likely be the only other brand that i'd go with other than the SSA's. Sorry if i'm being a pest bro but you been a big help and I know you know your stuff. Hope i'm not being abusive with my questions but there is soooooo many of them on my mind. Lol Thanks |
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Bronze Member Username: Loudrivi97New Orleans, La. Post Number: 33 Registered: Nov-11 | Joe,Joe,Joe, what's happening with it? You know what dude, I know I keep changing my damn mind but I think the AQ's have to go. When 'ol boy at Audioque suggested that I should go with a 5 cube box, that was kind of a turn off. It seems that their subwoofers are designed only for large enclosures hence getting the best performace out of them. I personally think that the only downside to AQ's sub lines is their box size requirements but still are awesome subs. Now, the xcons are still on my mind but I do love the way the DC xl 10's look and I heard that particular series are straight up badazz. Ok, tell me this bro, which would be loudest and hit the lowest, two xl 10's (box size req. only 2 cu. with a small for two subs)on 4k or one lvl 5 12 (only 1.5 for one sub) on 4k? Also,what's with the very small number "3" on the side of the cubic measurement figures? Lol Which in your honest opinion you would think that will sound the best and which of the setup would you perfer to add to your system? Btw, the DC's are most likely be the only other brand that i'd go with other than the SSA's. Sorry if i'm being a pest bro but you been a big help and I know you know your stuff. Hope i'm not being abusive with my questions but there is soooooo many of them on my mind. Lol Thanks |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 994 Registered: May-09 | Don't worry Chuck I have had a guy asking the basically the same question 1 ot 2 times a week in different forums for like 2 months and a number of lesser cases so sometimes for some people is hard to come to a decision but is that is not uncommon. In my post 967 up above shows how a DC XL 12 Performs on a 1.5cuft@38Hz against a XCON 12 and the HDC312 The XLs will take 2K each without a problem. Unhappiliy DC Audio does not provide analytical data for the Lvl5 so I can't tell you nothing about it but I expect it to be like the BTL needing higher tuning like all straight SPL subs are. Here is a pic of a SPL test box using a big aero aimed almost directly at the motor of the driver, it will take all the heat out this way.  Also you see that the port comes out of the box making it really small, enclosure designs can be done in very different ways. |
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