with a ported box and both tuned to the same frequency, their low end extension will roll off sharply at or jsut below that frequency, so it really wouldn't matter which way you went.
Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!,
AA Havoc 15 ...
Your Mom FTW!!
Post Number: 3719 Registered: May-04
Posted on
Good choice with the Havoc,you wont be disappointed. Im running 1 15" Havoc in a 4cft ported enclosure with 2 4" aero ports tuned around 34hz. Its only on 1000wrms and it still gets plenty loud,low, and sounds amazing! Its my favorite sub Ive owned/heard,it has the perfect balance of SQ and SPL,well IMO.
If you want my opinion I would go with the 1 15". I prefer single sub setups and 15s. A single sub setup is easier to run than 2+ woofers. It'll take less power,which means less money for an amp,you wont have to go crazy upgrading your electrical either. Of course its always a good idea to upgrade your battery,alt,and the big 3 is a MUST even for lower powered systems. But if you're just running the 1 15" and power it accordingly,1250wrms,your stock alt may be OK at least until you can afford to upgrade your alt and/or battery. Like I said make sure and at least do the big 3 upgrade. Plus I still think the 1 15" will gow lower than the 12s,theoretically the 15 should hit lower than the 12s.
Fs of 12=30.9 Hz Fs of 15=29.0 Hz
It all really depends on your enclosure though. Anyways,Ascendant Audio FTMFW!!!!
Either go with the louder one - the 2 12's - if you can power both at RMS...
OR
Go with the one that'll allow the cleaner look - IE maybe your box design could be wedged into a trunk better with 1 15" because it fits squarely, and with 2 12's it wouldn't be as clean. Go with the box that'll allow for longer physical wave travel - IE if doing a trunk, the box with more depth will get lower.
When I stand infront of my 4" PC subwoofer it's pretty bad, but if I stand a few feet away, where it can bounce off a wall, it sounds quite a bit deeper.
I think what you want is a better resonance of the two, not just the ability to play below the tune, which will eventually kill a sub.
Go with the longer box or the cleaner look. If you're doing port & sub firing into the cabin from a trunk and you want to seal it off than use the box/sub that blocks more cabin-trunk opening area off while being longer.
Also consider future upgrades. Maybe you'll want beefier 12's later. Maybe you'll want more 15's and the 15 you already have is less money on the next system. Maybe you'll get a higher power 15 and you'll already have a box for it.
Twiztid, how much did you pay for the sub? I haven't contacted a dealer yet, just wanna have an idea of how much i'm gonna invest when I add everything up.
First thing I will take care of is the Big 3 and an HO alt, im thinking about 200-220 amps.
Lord Huggington, my previous set up was a single 12w7 in a 2.0cf ported box paired with a jl 1000\1 and it sounded ok. I wanted to try something something different this time ( 2 12" subs ) but now im considering getting a single 15 in a ported box.
Nice set up. My last set up was a 05 RE XXX 12 in 2.25 cubes ported @ 36 Hz with 1500W. It wanged and sounded great, but after a few months it was nothing to rave about. I wanted bass that'd make me vomit lol. Once you get up to something like 2 12's, a great ported box, and 2000+ watts with good electrical, it starts to get uncomfortable on a good song. I heard 2 ported Type-X 12's on 3k from a Cavalier trunk, Alpine box, and it was so loud on Throw It Up that I couldn't hold snot in my nose!
The biggest differences will be the box setup/position, port ratio/air speed, power, and the box itself, meaning you can do very much with very little. It's really all install dependant, like sealing off the trunk from the cabin gains you 3dB. Even 45 degree corners in the box will add .1's of a dB, it all adds up.
What vehicle is it? What's the box position gonna be (like port & sub firing into cabin from trunk)? What's your budget? If your budget isn't a thing than you'll be louder with 2 12's because of the power handling, given that you could fully power them at RMS, so at and above 30 Hz you're looking at a 3dB gain over a 15.
Then again, with a bad box someone could come along and be louder with a 10 lol. The box is the worst to skimp on.
Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!,
AA Havoc 15 ...
Your Mom FTW!!
Post Number: 3720 Registered: May-04
Posted on
Joe,I paid around $250 shipped I think. But I bought mine slightly used from a member on here actually. Im not sure how much they are direct from AA. I would look on caraudio/forum,CACO,or maybe DIYMA and try to find a used one. Just make sure its from a trusted member and you could pay a lot less for a nice used one instead of paying full retail.
Lord Huggington, I havent decided on the box design yet, but Im thinking of having the port firing against the left side of the trunk, most likely with the sub facing up. Due to space limitations (trunk opening) the box can't be very tall so I can fit it through without problems.
The car is an 02 Nissan Sentra.
Twiztid, I really would like to ge the sub brand new. I don't know which amp to get though. It will either be a saz 1500 v2 or dd1200 m1c( taking into account that it can put up to 1700 wrms @1ohm at 14.4 volts, according to the manufacturer) unless there is a better choice.
Crescendo Audio FTMFW!!,
AA Havoc 15 ...
Your Mom FTW!!
Post Number: 3722 Registered: May-04
Posted on
As long as you give the Havoc 1000-1500w clean power it will do great. 1700w is kinda pushing it but if you have a good electrical and you are not clipping it and set the gains correct you may be OK giving it 1700wrms but IMO you should go with an amp that does a solid 1200wrms just to be safe. The rms on the 15" Havoc is 1250w so 1200 will be perfect for it.
you really should not obstruct the port by firing it "into" anything. It should be free of obstruction both inside the box and out for about 8" minimum on both sides ideally. Try a down-firing 15" lifted off the bottom/floor of the car by 4-6", with the port firing downward also, or firing from a adjacent side, into the trunk.