Anyone else get this amp blown? It sounded pretty decent (I thought it would be much louder). I had the gain set to 3/4, the bass boost at 1/5, the LPF at around 100-110, and the subsonic at 23-25 (my box is tuned to 30hz). It's hooked up to two alpine type r's at 1 ohm.
The remote gain knob was installed by my steering wheel, and it was never past halfway on the gain. If the clip light ever came up, I would always turn it down so it never showed period. (constantly staring at the clip light every 5 seconds, definitely not safe driving lol).
Today I was playing it and the clip light was not blinking at all but the bass in the beginning of a song was not playing at all, then it came on out of nowhere. Clip light still not blinking. I changed songs and the bass came in, it stopped, the remote gain knob shutoff, and the amp doesn't work anymore. It's pretty hot. Smells kind of burnt.
To be honest, I had these subs in a factory shitty box tuned pretty high, running on a m850 alpine amp at 2 ohms (about 250 watts per sub), with 8 gauge wiring instead of the 0 i have now. I would rate that loudness as a 6, and my current setup with the custom 4.5 cu ft box with the 1200 watts pushing them, I would rate a 7-7.5. It was definitely not a world of difference at all. The subs are pretty cold and the capacitor is still working so I know the subs were handling it fine.
Do you think it was just a faulty amp that I just happened to get? The headunit settings were completely flat (I'm not retarded).
I've owned my AQ1200D for over 3 years now, and have never had any issues with overheating or clipping.
From what you described, the AQ1200D is dead. A burnt smell is not a good sign at all.
On your next Amplifier, don't use a Bass Knob, and actually set the Gain on the Amplifier correctly. Correct tuning would have avoided clipping and your AQ1200D would still be alive today.
I guess you didn't read my post correctly. What bass knob? The gain was set exactly how AQ stated it should be tuned. The subs NEVER clipped, and the clipping lights NEVER came on. It just died.
This information is straight from audioque customer service, and the email they sent me.
*AMP SET UP: Low pass: between 120-125 (did 110) Subsonic Filter: between 30-35 (did 25) Amp Gain 3/4 (I did the same) Plug in the remote gain control. (With it being all the way on minimum) (k did the same) Start with volume low and work up until you have distortion from your mids and highs.. (done) Also, make sure the settings are flat across the board on bass, bass boost and any EQ settings you may have make sure they are flat… (Head Unit) (obviously done, turned up bass boost 1/5 of the way and lowered the gain on the remote gain control instead) Slowly turn up the remote gain control towards max until the clipping light turns on and off (not solid) (instead, I did it so the light clip NEVER went on
Then its set, Do not have the light go solid if you do either turn down the volume or remote gain control down until it shuts off.*
Not that im trying to start an arguement, but this statement you posted in Paragraph 2, Sentence 1, states that you are using a Bass Knob:
"The remote gain knob was installed by my steering wheel....."
Remote Gain Knob = Bass Knob
Also in Paragraph 2, Sentence 2, you mentioned:
"If the clip light ever came up, I would always turn it down so it never showed period."
That alone makes me believe that at one point or another, the "clip light" has turned on. If not, why would you even bother mentioning this at all or clipping at all at that matter?
Regardless, the AQ1200D is done for and it's time to look into a new Amplifier. Anything in mind or are you going back to your Alpine M850?
Sorry kind of drunk. The remote gain knob is not a bass knob. Since you have an AQ1200d you would know well that it is not a bass knob at all.
Clip light would blip sometimes, just stated by AQ how it should be properly tuned. They said it's very sensitive so it's more of a precautionary. I didn't like the idea of it, so instead of having it blip on and off (like it's supposed to according to AQ customer service), I lowered it a little more so it never showed up. Some songs were louder than others so it would not blip at all on one song, and barely blip on another. I'd obviously turn it down.
I did exactly everything AQ told me to do in my e-mail, and in the manual I received. Everything was perfectly tuned and everything was perfectly setup to make sure I avoided this problem. Obviously something went wrong. It turned on just before but quickly shut off.
I have no other amp seeing as I sold the MRP-m850. I e-mailed AQ and I'm going to see if I can get a replacement. If not (which would be some BS), I'm gonna save up for new subs and a new amp, possibly 2 JL12w7 with a much beefier amp. I was going to go with AQ3000 but if AQ screws me over I will never buy any of their stuff again
Ahhh... nevermind. My bad. Im a few beers in myself. I have a one track mind when I see the word "Knob".
Regardless, I don't know why everyone is having so many problems with the Audioque products lately. My AQ1200D and AQ4 are working great, never had any issues. Maybe sometime along the way Audioque changed the materials used to make them? Who knows...
You may check your subs throughly for correct resistance now. However sometimes the thing just blows, this is one reason to have amps as powerful as possible and beyond speakers capacity, you stress its components less and keeps temps low.
you have the LPF set way too high for starters. try setting the XO @ 50-55Hz. it'll sound a lot better. also if the amp blew it was either a faulty amp, you have a bad ground or faulty wiring, or lack of sufficient current from the alternator for the current draw of the amplifier. That gain also sounds like it's set a bit high to me. I usually don't ever need to go beyond about half way with teh gain when it's set right for most head units, unless your head unit has extremely weak pre-out voltages.
thats how AQ said to tune it. XO? Is that the same as LPF? If so, then the subs wouldn't even bother playing half the bass notes in my songs.
Amp is blown, because my wiring goes to my fuse, which then goes to my capacitor, then goes to the amp. the capacitor works fine still, so that means the fuses are still good (300NL) and the wiring must be good.
I do have a shitty headunit, and the gain isn't high. I guess you didn't read all of my post, I have a remote gain knob. It was set at 3/4 on the amp, and 1/3 of the way on the remote gain knob, which would put it around 1/4 of actual GAIN. Set right for most head units? Do you mean EQ settings on a headunit? Definitely would never do that.
>thats how AQ said to tune it. XO? Is that the same as LPF? If so, then the subs wouldn't even bother playing half the bass notes in my songs.
yes, XO is CrossOver. Same as the Low Pass Filter (LPF) Trust me, 50Hz is a perfect place to cross over a SUBwoofer. Subs are designed to be used for the bottom 2 octaves of music. That's 60Hz and below. With a slope on your crossover of 18dB, which is typical for a sub LPF, the subs will still play up to about 150Hz if crossed at 50Hz. They just get quieter beyond the 50Hz mark. That's how a crossover works. It's not a brick wall. It's a gradual slope of decreasing volume from the setpoint onward. I've been doing this professionally for 20 years now. I know what I'm talking about. Try it. Crossing a sub over at 100Hz just makes it very boomy and muddy, and you'll get a lot of vocals through the sub. It'll also be far too "warm." Your midrange or midbass drivers should be handling anything over about 60-80Hz.
>Amp is blown, because my wiring goes to my fuse, which then goes to my capacitor, then goes to the amp.
This makes no sense. Also, your capacitor is useless. Caps don't do anything to help you. If your lights were dimming, you need a larger alternator. No way around that other than drawing less current from the charging system. If you thought you needed a capacitor, then this is really why your amp blew. It was clipping due to lack of sufficient current. This is common in systems with a big amp and stock electrical system.
>the gain isn't high. I guess you didn't read all of my post, I did read it, and 3/4 is high.
the remote VOLUME control, and the input sensitivity (often referred to as gain, though incorrectly) are two different things. the input sensitivity on the amp should be set to match the line voltage of your head unit.
glad you figured it out. If you'd checked that stuff the first time around, you'd have saved yourself a lot of time and effort.