I'm finally about to recone my 12 to an 18 with fixmyspeaker.com. I can't find the cutout and outer dimensions, does anyone have them handy? I'm hoping for 18.5 outer/16.75 inner, or similiar to the SS XXX cuz I might buy one later on.
Can someone tell me if 7 NET @ 30 Hz (more like 6.95 NET @ 30.1 Hz but whatevs) with 12" of port per cube would be better than say, 7.25 @ 32 Hz with 12.5 per cube ETC? How do I measure output in winisd? Can someone do that for me? What I want is a flat response in-car, I know that's a lot of work, but I want to shoot for it. I want it to drop off after 30 Hz.
The box is 1.5" baffle/.75" everywhere else, port 4.5 x 18.5 x 28 depth, outer dimensions 49.5 x 20 x 20, taking out my Aleros back seat and throwing it in with sub & port upfire. I can also turn the box so that it's port & sub forward fire. Should the sub be mounted on both .75" or should it be flushed, sitting on one piece of .75"? I want to keep it 20 x 20, and that's about all the space I can do. I was thinking about using 2 mach 5 IXL 18's in 9 NET sealed too, but I can't find any for sale. I heard they were awesome and cheap.
Does it matter where the sub is mounted IE - on the far side of the port or can it be in the middle of the box so that when I or the passenger looks back we can both see the sub?
I'd also like to weld the back doors shut. Theft has been a big problem here, and I live in the middle of nowhere.
fixmyspeaker.com will send me the soft parts and what not, are you seriously asking me that or are you asking if I'll do the labour? I don't know how to fix a sub, so I gotta find someone to do that.
David (fixmyspeaker) is a great guy to deal with from my experience! I've heard nothing but positive things about him and his service from others as well.
I'm curious to find out what parts these two drivers have in common aside from possibly the speaker terminals/binding posts. Different cone, spiders, basket, motor structure, moving from 3" to 4" coils.. they are completely different speakers.
I thought they just had different baskets/cones. I was quoted $175 for all the parts. I wouldn't be sending them my sub, just ordering the parts. I'm not trying to recone an RE XXX 12 to an SS XXX 18 lol, what an impossible & useless nightmare that would be.
Right now I'm thinking of selling everything for a ZCON, they look badass and boast really high sensitivity (94.9 dB on the D1 18!). Ain't cheap though. Mayyyyybe a couple DCON 15's.
I can either do an 18" on the back seat in 7 @ 30/7.5 @ 35 or a 15" out of the trunk opening (eventually sealing the trunk) at around 4 @ 34 Hz.
I'm considering a 15" because If the wave from a 15" at the trunk opening would travel to the back of the trunk and then forward to the dash it would be around a 5' longer wave than an 18" right behind the front seats and could possibly keep up with or surpass the 18" for lows. Does that sound about right? Also looks cleaner than a box where the back seat should be, cheaper box too.
Is you're 12" XXX blown or in need of recone? It would be a sad day to the car audio community if you cut apart a fully functional 05 xxx with original softparts
The cone & motor are fine, it fried 1 tinsel wire on a sad day in 07. It has original parts. I didn't even ask if PSI could just fix the tinsel for way cheaper, I'd probably have to ship to them though. They should make a field replacement kit. The box was probably tuned too high, played too low a song, probably dirty power on stock elec. but it only went into protect twice (listening to Kanye Can't Tell Me Nothing both times) in 6 months.
Honestly 1 12 ain't nothing for me to get excited about anymore. Maybe if the box was a lot better it could be, but I'd rather have a 15 or 18 with that much better of a box.
The box was horrible, port side sub back, about 2.2 net @ 36 Hz, 1" MDF, no 45's, no resin, no kerf, no internal bracing for $300. Took them over a week and the place is never busy. I should have done 2.5 @ 30 Hz with an L shaped port, but I didn't know anything then.
Nah I'm not thinking about this too much, I'm getting too little answers. It could be a monumental difference between a 15 & 18. The amp fixer place won't even respond to my emails.
The DCON 15 is 6.3dB more efficient than my XXX 12, and given that my amp was putting out 1200W, half that twice = 300W = the difference of 6dB. DCON has more motor force and half the XMAX the XXX has. The DCON box would be twice as big as the XXX's. The XXX's box was a bad design, low port area, no 45's or double baffle or resin, and if I got a DCON 15 the box would be hella sweet. Would they about equal out in SPL with the DCON on 300-500W?
Do the xxx's use a full face dustcap? if you can get that dustcap off replacing tinsel leads isn't too hard, but it just depends on the woofer. If you get that dustcap off and the cap isnt salvageable, and you can replace the leads, maybe see if PSI will sell you just a dustcap.
If you get tot eh leads, you may have to remove some glue to get to the coil leads once inside. I use a soldering iron and it melts it, but its stinky! and dont get the fumes in your eyes!
Dave will replace everything. he reconed my 05 xxx 12 awhile back. he doesn't like to "repair" from my experience. he has xxx full dust caps on hand usually. my dust cap wasn't reusable. he ran ts numbers on it after recone and it was identicle to factory. he can get re subs really close. but i seriously doubt he will just fix a tinsel. he has 18" 12 spokes on hand. will just pull old off and put an 18" assembly in. he can probably find you an xxx dust cap too. i would have him do the work though. he doesn't charge much for return shipping. he just reconed a soundstream xxx 18 for me a couple weeks ago and shipped it back for under 200 for everything. dave is good.
Thanks for the caution about the fumes. I once melted plastic onto my finger. Funny it only happends once.
I think you have the wrong thread LikeARock lol.
It's a flat cone. I was quoted $175 for the parts to build an 18". I'm not sure how many layers of tinsel I need, they have dual, tripple, and quad stitched. Won't go over 2200W.
I still need an amp. My board isn't too black but it did smoke really bad.