Stay within 10 to 15 square inches of port area per cubic foot of volume. It doesn't matter how many ports you use. If the rear seats fold down than point them towards the cabin. Use 1" MDF with a 2-4" baffle. Don't use .75" unless you have some mean bracing or a 3500 will destroy your box.
If you're asking if .75" is too thick or too thin than what are you doing with a 3500D? Do you have pics of it? Alt? Batts? Honestly you're just going to break something if you don't know these answers.
for sure. Its like building a japanese airport on a man-made sand island.....Its just not got the foundation. None of it. Yes, the box will need at least 1" mdf if you gonna run that amp at full tilt. Also to run at full tilt, you will need to upgrade ALOT. AWHOLELOT. You going to need a few more batts at the very least, then get a HO alt when you can afford it. Run 1/0 gauge to your amp and all batts. That amp you got is BEAST and it needs room to run. The subs will tame that beast, only with a good cage, or it will brake out and turn on its master. You should definately know these things already with equipment like that. You must have stole it....... What are wanting to do? SPL comps or just pure good rap music enjoyment?
OH, and along with the big amp and wire and batts, upgrade your big 3 at least. Low voltage=clipping=equipment death= You don't want that. JUst keEp YOuR GaiN turnED down like haLF-Way at most...
"You must have stole it" LOL... or bought it thinking it would be sufficient or louder than anybody with less than 3500 watts.
Alternator $450 3 Batteries $450 Wiring $100 (4 runs of 1/0 on each terminal would be nice) Deadening so the bumpers don't fall off $100-$200 8 cubes of 1" MDF + 3-4" baffle + 1" bracing + aero ports (expensive) = smaller than 8 cubes, expensive box. It's like two boxes in one, really = $350-$500.
Not to mention the weight is +500-750lbs.
You could run it @ 2 ohms for 1750ish watts, with an alt around 200 amps and 1 decent used battery.
A 3500D pulls 480 amps, and it's hard to find an alt that puts out over 350A, let alone over 200ish at idle. That's why you need all those batteries.
I was going to get a 3500... I got a 1500 instead, and this is why! I saved nearly $2000. Then my car was stolen & torched.
too bad he doesnt live closer id sell him my four kinetik 1800's.....three are brand new never hoooked up and one is used all the batteries are kept topped up on my charger i have
@lord no i dont have pics of it yet be cause i order the subs and amp last week and it takes two weeks to build. I ordered a 270 amp HO alt from mechman yesterday. i asked was .75 to thin or thick because i see a lot of the online box builders use the size for almost everything.
@Makinblak i just want good rap enjoyment i ask questions to a couple of guys that use this amp for daily a comps told me up grade the battery under the hood and have one in the trunk, and if i was to do comps or a lot of demos i will THEN need 3+ batteries
"a second battery may or may not be needed. But all this will be determined by your listening habits, competing or daily and so on" this is straight from the person who builds the amps.
I would think a second battery would be a must at the least. .75 should be fine as long as you have a good amount of bracing.
I remember my crescendo 3k (same as the saz3000) With a 320 amp alt and 3 big batts in the trunk wired to .5 ohm and i still remember dropping into the low 11's sometimes. When i wired it to 2 ohms in was perfect.
well my brother just informed me the used one didnt test out very well but i do have the three brand new ones........as far as shipping them i would if the price was right.....how much would you be willing to pay for each shipped?
8 cubes x 12" of port per cube = 96"/minimum for daily. You could get away with 10" per cube with aeros (12" with slot-port) but I don't see it with your power, it needs room to breath or you'll get port whistle.
It would be convenient if you could do two 8's but your holes aren't allowing that. How would you feel about cutting .5"+aero thickness all around the 7" diameter of the holes?
2 15's in 8 cubes on 3500W with 2 8" aeros through the rear deck would be a loud mofo!
You could also do 3 6" aeros (10.6" per cube) or 4 6" aeros (14.13" per cube).
If you aren't cutting the holes for two 8's than do 4 6" aeros.
i think it would be cheaper to do two 8 inchers. I can trim around the hole to give me a lil more area, or i can take out my 6x9's. Does it matter how close the ports are together or apart? Last question... Can i just cut the wholes so that the port from the box can blow straight from the box into the cabin or have the port attached to the rear deck and the box?
Yes it would be cheaper, those aeros are pretty damn expensive, a bent piece of plastic is such a rip off!
No, it doesn't matter how close the ports are together. In pro SPL setups they have them all together without any spacing.
When air leaves a port it quickly displaces and goes all over the place, that's why the ends are flared. If you point a port at a same-size hole in a deck with space inbetween the end of the port and the deck than it will just cause the deck to rattle to all hell. You'll want to install the ports through the cabin and into the trunk, not up from the trunk because the end (should be) flared when buying from a place like precision ports so they wouldn't fit that way. You'll want the flared portion sticking out a little, just enough so that the air leaving the flare doesn't want to hit something and go back into the trunk. Seal it off with towels or whatever. Don't put the port on an angle so the air flows with the angle of the back window, keep the port straight from box to deck and let the air displace/hit on the back window. Sinse the window has a nicely angled and smooth surface it will displace nicely, more so than hitting anywhere in the trunk. Sealing it off takes away rattles and isolates the front & rear waves a bit more than leaving them unsealed.