I need help!!!!!!!!

 

Jordan
Hey I have just finished installing my new system and sounds great or it souinded great I should say.I have 2 JL Audio 12w3's in a ported box and Im powering them with a Kicker 800.2 2-channel amp.It all sounded good until earlier today when I went around a sharp curve I and everything shut off (my amp and cd player)I thought I just blown a fuse so I looked in my glove compartment where my fusebox is and I blew the radio amp fuse so I replaced it and the cd player comes on now but the amp doesnt and I checked the fuse on the amp and it was fine can somone please help me out here?
 

zac davis
maybe your remote wire has shorted out. try unhooking it from the amp, then take a short wire and jump from the+ terminal to the remote terminal on the amp, the amp should turn on if thats what happened. or use a test light or volt meter on your wires at the amp, if you have one.
of course these are only temporary connections for testing. if your deck's remote wire is burned out then just use the red wire(acc) for a remote now, but be sure to re-run a new one.
 

Jordan
Im sorry Im still confused let me tell u my exact setup I have the amp hooked up to a 2 gauge power cord thats connected to the car battery and I have a little blue remote wire runnin from my amp to my lil remote switch I have under my steering wheel.The swith has 3 outputs one that says acc one that says ground and one that says power ok I have the power output goin to the amp and the ground runnin to a metal piece in my car and the acc wire is runnin from the output into my Alpne cd reciever but when I flip the switch on nothin happens.I think the wire to the cd player might have came loose
 

zac
why aren't you using the deck's "amp turn on" wire
 

Jordan
ok now I am and it works thanks
 

Paul
if the remote wire is burned out... does the amp's protection light goes on, or no power is present? coz i have a problem with my system.. the protection light is on and i dont know the problem is... i checked all my wirings and they all looked ok... i haven't try using a test light or a voltmeter to check my wires... anyone has ideas on how to solve my problem? thanks
 

zacdavis
paul, sometimes a direct short will cause your amp to "protect". try unhooking your speakers wires and rca's at the amp. then turn your system back on. if your protection is now off, that could mean a couple things, your subs may be blown, or the wires going to them could be touching, or even maybe your rca's. if it's still in protection with the speaker wires and rca's unplugged, then i think your amp may need to be serviced. anyone else have any suggestions for him?
 

Paul
i tried taking out my rca's ONLY, and the protection is off and no power is present... same thing happens when i pull out my ground... but i haven't tried taking out my speaker wires... so what do u think the problem is??
 

Jordan
Hey Derek I. Im gonna upgrade my system from 2 JL w3's to 6 w3's by christmas time I was wondering If I had all that power what amp could I use to push all of them and should I get any capacitors?If anyone else could help me out plz do so.
 

Jordan
Also my car is a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix and it has a factory alternator in it.
 

mkw
paul, sometimes the fuse in the power wire blows, but doesnt completely melt and may still test positive but just not supply the full 12 volts of power.......try testing or replacing the fuse in the amp's power wire
 

I HAVE A CD PLAYER AND IT USED TO WORK FINE BUT NOW THERES NO POWER GOING TO IT AND I DONT KNOW WHY ALL THE WIRES LOOK FINE I NEED HELP BAD,AND WHEN I DID HAVE POWER AND I TURNED ON MY LIGHTS THEN ID HAVE NO POWER FOR MY CD PLAYER IF ANYONE CAN HELP PLEASE EMAIL ME AT MANTARAY88507294@AOL.COM THANKS
 

did you check the radio fuse brent?


jordan: are you going to be using more amps than you are right now? if so, what size amps? if you are going to be putting any significant amount of power to those subs, then i might suggest getting a new alt/bat setup, a cap will not solve the problem if you need more than 10-15 extra amps of current. a cap in a situation like that will actually make your problem worse, so hit me up with an email or write me back on here and i'll try to help you a.s.a.p
 

Anonymous
brent, its the ground wire. run a new one.
 

JC
Unregistered guest
We purchased a '04 Grand Prix and it has this awful hum coming from the rear speakers and occasionaly a loud pop when you open the door or put it in gear. The dealer says it is a problem with the stero system and that the techs have not found a soultion for it. What do you think I should do? Its a shame that one pays so much for their cars and then this happens. HELP!!! Is anyone else having this same problem?
 

New member
Username: Its_bacon12

Post Number: 8
Registered: 12-2003
question here:
how would you run a quad 1 ohm VC subwoofer (i.e. immortal series by Audiobahn or HK series by MA Audio) and be able to run it at 4 ohms? i was maybe gonna look into a HK ma audio 12" sub and wire it in series cuz paralell would = .25 ohm load and i have not seen ana mp that can handle that low of a load

any help at all is appreciated
 

New member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 56
Registered: 12-2003
you have either a bad ground in that grand prix in the audio system somewhere, or the +12VDC line is getting noise or shares a circuit with the gearshift and dome light. Isolate the ground points and +12 for the stereo and that problem should vanish. It'll take a little rewiring work but it should solve the problem.

As for the subs, I wouldn't own an MA Audio or Audiobahn anything myself, but that aside, the Orion 225HCCA G4 amplifier is .25 Ohm stable.
Otherwise you can wire in series to raise the impedance to an acceptable range for just about any Mono sub amp.
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