In a single cab you're just not going to get outstanding output without possibly putting in bucket seats and using a center structure box instead of going beind the seats. trucks, especially single cabs, have a big problem with "trunk bass" where the cabin of the truck with the windows up, acts as a secondary enclosure to the subs, causing the bass to be very muted when the cab is sealed up, and output increases substantially when the windows are cracked or down. Very common problem with sealed and ported boxes both. Single cab trucks just aren't made for lots of bass unless you do a blow-through enclosure in the bed, or put a big box in the bed, put a cap on the bed of the truck, and take out the rear window of the cab and seal the opening between cab and bed with something like a bicycle tire innertube inflated like a weather seal, or something similar.
You can but they'd have to be sealed, shallow drivers. It would be better if you had bucket seats and used one good ported 12 or 2 sealed 10's between them.
For a sealed 10 look at the Eclipse SW8010 / 700W RMS / 86dB sensitivity / $140? each @ Sonicelectronics) / 1.25 cubes = Q .5x / FC @ 29hz... something like that. Great sub for lots of bottom end in a small box. When you seal most 10's, they drop off at -12dB/octave at around 55hz so you don't get much bottom end out of them unless they have a reeeally low Q, which isn't exactly musical.
I hate to agree w/ .....um...myself...but the new shallow-ish R's are not bad subs.
Do us all a favor OP. Go out to your truck w/ a tape measure and get some measurements. Put the seat in a comfortable position (if you can give of a notch or 2 on the seat, that will help alot) and measure...
bottom of seat to back wall bottom of plastic on back wall to seat floor to bottom of plastic panel width from drivers side plastic to passenger along back wall.
That will give us all a better idea of what room you are working with, and what sub(s) will work for you.
i have had a box that was 8 1/2 on bottom depth and 5 on top depth. 62 from side to side, 17 inches from bottom to top and it wasnt uncomfortable really
Well thanks to the RE enclosure calculator i have my new box design for what i need. ported baby!!!! not dissin shallows but i need a lil more power than that!!!!
You could cut a hole in the middle of the bench seat to house a magnet (like a BTL 12). Without needing to account for the driver displacement or mounting depth, you could proooobably fit it in 2-2.5 cubes... ? That'd be sweet.
If it were me, I would get thin bucket seats and do a half-wall (stacked 15's?) with everything pointed to the rear... just to see what that'd be like.
When you calculate the long way, you get more accurate calculations. The RE calc is inaccurate for three reasons: the end correction (for 1 outer wall as a port wall) is wrong, it doesn't account for driver displacement, and it doesn't allow for a shorter port length without needing to change the box depth.
With a slot port that uses an outer wall as part of the port wall, its physical port length will behave as if it is +half of the port width. The RE calc does measure the port length as +half of the port width but it's still wrong. 1" thick, port width 6", box depth 30" - it does say 33" port length but why is it wrong? The end correction is wrong.
Driver displacement doesn't matter too much - but holy shizzle, that was a slip. How easy would it have been to do that?
You want a calculator that doesn't give different port lengths when the port width & height are switched (carstereos.com) - this means it doesn't use an end correction, and you do want to do the end correction yourself, just so you know what you're getting (it's not like it's stated, and it's more than just "+half of the port width").
Whatever the 12 volts' slot port calculator states is where you want the center line port length measured, and after an end correction because that calc doesn't refer to the physical port length. It doesn't "know" what you're working with so it calculates for what it does know - the end of the equation.
It may be off by as much as 5 HZ. It's a problem with SPL designs, where the goal is to have minimum cone travel so it can take lots of power. Combined with lots of port area, the driver can unload easily so an accurate tune is needed. Most people tune below the burp frequency for this reason, and because of the acoustics of the car and what not, the loudest tune will obviously be different than what a calculator states.
If you want to test the calculators, use one driver in two different boxes with roughly the same dimensions, use the same port area and air space, and use the two different port lengths. Tune both boxes to the same frequency, and then burp that frequency. Technically, the calculator/box that allows for lesser cone travel at the burped frequency is more accurate.
The person who designed the RE calc used their own opinion (based on real world experience) of how far off any other calculator was. All math aside, you shouldn't do that.
If they were accurate, they'd give the same numbers.