Figured I would post up a few boxes from this week.
First, the little box... 1-DD1510a D4, 1.5cuft, 36hz, 1-4" PSP port. Going in a customers H3 w/ stock HU and DD C2b amp @ 2ohm.
Big smooth 3/4" corner round over.
Now the big box. DD3518F D2. Going in an '04 ext cab silverado on an M1B. 7.35cuft, tiny little port.
Has the same 3/4" corner round over, but it doesn't look as dominant w/ this bigger box. Every wall of this box is 1.5" thick except the bottom. Its a heavy *****.
You just need a sharp razor and contact cement w/ a long work time. Forget using canned glue for carpeting boxes. I use a siphon feed HVLP latex spray gun and DAP Weldwood contact cement. I use a new razor for every box too.
The Weldwood allows for longer work time than the canned stuff. I can coat the box and carpet and take my time w/ the seams. Even w/ a bad cut, the Weldwood stays damp and the carpet will slide on the box so I can push the seams together before it tacks up.
I also paint staples black and shoot one in each corner to hold those seams together and keep them from coming up later on. You can see one of the staples here:
The staples are hidden very well, you have to catch the light just right to see them.
Oh...and their are a total of 5 seams on the face w/ the port. Dare you to find them
Also, in this picture....you can see how I round over the slot ports and recess the bit ~3/16". That way you get the rounded port opening, but I shoot the black painted staples into the ridge that the router bit makes.
I then trim the carpet back and burn the cut edge to clean up any frayed ends. It also help to make the carpet shrink up around the staples and 'bite in' so the carpet doesn't pull up around the port later. I know alot of people just trim the carpet around the port, but this helps alot to help the lifespan of the carpet around the port.
I don't know about that Paul. I have hell carpeting my underseat 1-10 box for 99-07 chevy box. The little cut away for the port is a female dog. (I have to build one of those for another DD1510 tomorrow)
I just wish more customers would opt for vinyl covered boxes. They look sexy as hell and I only charge the cost of material extra. (usually like $15-30/yard depending on the material) I can get away w/ ~2.5-3yards for most 2-12 boxes. Basic colors are like $50 per box, but the alligator print ones are for playaz only...lol
I'm the only person locally that does sewn edges w/ them. And in some cases the sewn 'box socks' I do for boxes actually makes it easier than carpeting. I just sew the shape, turn it inside out and glue the hell out of it, then slip it over and staple it to the underside of the box.
And just a question for everyone. I charged $135 for the 1-10 box w/ the 4" flare. I feel its a very fair price, but alot of the guys that walk in the shop complain about my box prices. Hell the the 18" box was $350 (including false floor w/ amp/batt rack).
So, do you think pricing like that is good 'in shop'? Or are alot of my customers just cheap***es?
Take into account...I DESIGN BOXES. I don't just build the same dam thing regardless of sub/vehicle over and over like other local places.
Considering the time and material involved with that box it is VERY reasonable, if not competitive. Tell them they can choose the latter or wish they didn't in the end.
i failed.. lol.. but anyways stuff looks good as always... i still have that box you built me before you went pro lol. nothing in it just sitting in the basement now.
"I charged $135 for the 1-10 box w/ the 4" flare." maybe $125 and you screw the sub in for my lazy self. then we have a deal. 135 is just a weird number.
death, That price includes mount and ~7ft of 12ga speaker wire. If it had been a slot-vent without the flared port, it would have been $125. PSP ports cost a little more and save space.
Dustin does good work. Haven't really looked at his prices to closely though, shipping kills ya in many cases. Also, the more product you buy from PSP, the cheaper you can get it. We order at least 15 ports at a time when we order, so that cuts down on cost....alot.
It really helps to have someone that actually builds boxes for your vehicle/subs, not just build the same box over and over (like I said before). Design is everything, and sadly alot of shops are stuck in old ways. They just build 'a box'...seen this time and time again.
I used to build online to make $ and go to USACi comps....I think that box I shipped to MS 'back when' was like $75 just for shipping.
I don't use terminal cups at all w/ my boxes Just wire thru the box. If you want a quick connection, I use spades on the ends of the wire from the box. Would rather wire direct to the amp though. The fewer splices/connections you can make the better.
Just a little heads up for any box builders on here. -Drill a hole -Run wire thru. -Hot glue.
This = win. Trust me. Hot glue takes far shorter time to cure than caulk.
The 1.5 cubes price seems pretty reasonable. The 7 cube one is a little on the high side, but non-the less is a good price as well. I charge around $260 for 8 cubes with double baffle (or flush mount) carpet and 45 in port. But I also get good prices on my wood and such
