Yeah I'm thinking about getting an orion 12" hcca, but don't know what kind of amp to run to it besides the amp that goes along for it. I want another amp cause I can't afford that certain amp. Any other amp combination with the hcca besides the hcca amp? My budget is low.
under $300.. sorry i'm poor. it's just i bought the 12" for $375 which sounded like a great deal to me and a pioneer deh-p7900bt for $25 brand new in open box. the wire harness and rca harness cost way more than what i bought it for.. so it's gunna be a while before i start thumpin.
Well, for a decent amp, under $300, you may find a good deal on a used amp. As for new, itd be between an AQ1200D or a Sundown 1000D. Both of those however will only push your sub at about half its power handling potential. That may be enough for you, especially if you're going ported. If you go larger than 1k rms, for a quality amp, you're looking at more than 300, unless buying used, and you may need to do some electrical upgrades to your ride to handle such an amp.
Thanks a lot guys for the help. I appreciate it a lot.
As for electrical upgrades, I don't quit understand. I'm a beginner btw. I have a pretty big battery wire and monster rca cables. Not sure how else to set it up. I've read a lot about putting a wire on the alternator, but I'm pretty clueless still.
Your alternator on the car can only supply so much power stock. If you have an amp that is too large, it is going to pull more juice off of it than it will be able to handle. When this happens, your battery takes over and gets pulled down. Once your battery is drained you're out of juice. If you pull too much power your alt cant do its job like charging your battery, running your head lights, etc. Doing the big 3 helps in voltage drops but doesnt help your alt produce any more power. A strong battery is always a plus, but as I stated, if your alt cant keep up, the battery will just be drained and killed.
Yeah the guy at the audio shop said something like that, but more complicated which I didn't understand at all. Thanks for taking the time to explain, I really understand now. I feel as if I should go back there and slap him on the neck really hard.
As for an alternator, how much do you think it'll cost for a better one? I think mine is stock. I drive a 1999 Integra 4DR LS. I'm not sure how much to spend on a good one. They look pretty expensive. :|
DC Power Engineering and Mechman both have great options for a High Output Alternator. You can look up their sites and shoot them an email. HO alts are pretty expensive, but a great investment if youre serious about power and running lots of it. Its key to any powerful system. If you do upgrade your alt, upgrading the big 3 with 1/0 guage is a must.
I bought it yesterday, but he told me if I don't want it I could always get my money back for it. Now the problem's the amp part. Well I'm not sure what size battery wire I have cause it doesn't fit to any amp I've used so far. And the other problem's that my budget($350 + $50 from recycling cans and bottles every 2 weeks) is REALLY TIGHT.
It's just I recently bought a new car and I have a problem with only bumping my speakers without subwoofers. It drives me crazy when I can't bump music without the sub. I used to have a 10" eclipse aluminum + 300 watt rockford fosgate p300-1 amp, but the sub cracked and blew when one of my fishing poles hit it.. and I finally got the wire harness for my head unit(pioneer deh-p7900bt), but no RCA harness atm. So it's gunna be a while before I start bumping again, but I'll do whatever it takes to get my car bumpin.
What kind of car do you have and how much room? You could get a single Fi SSD https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154c0cc7c59ed7e/s hopdata/0050_Speakers/0040_SSD/product_overview.shopscript
And run 750-1000 rms on it. Depending on how much room for an enclosure you have, you could get the largest size possible. That would save money on the cost of a sub and on an amp. Those subs do very well for themselves, check them out on youtube sometime.
that's really nice looking, but if i were to get one, which should i get? can you hear them from at least half a block? i don't understand the part on where it says dual 1/dual 2 or the other stuff like flatwind coil or dustcap or qts.. i drive a 1999 acura integra 4dr LS. i want my car to knock and at the same time have SQ inside the car, but i rather have more sound quality inside than knock outside. I just want it really loud inside. like breathtaking loud. also what is the perfect amp to get for it and would this cost me less than $500 all together?
For the deepest bass possible you want two things. You're going to want the largest diameter possible. You may be able to fit a single 15 in the rear, possibly an 18 if you do some adjusting. The largest factor there is having room for the box. The next thing that is crucial is your enclosure. Have an enclosure built for the exact sound you're looking for and have it tuned low, like around 30 - 32Hz. Low bass travels farther than high bass, and low bass is what gives you that deep, flexing that crap out of your car, bass. Low bass is my favorite as well. The HCCA 12 you have is an SPL woofer which is designed to be loud and give you high dB numbers. For deeper bass you would want a SQ sub. Sound Quality subs are designed to have more excursion and with that, better produce low frequencies and also be more musical, thus being a SQ woofer. The SSD I recommended is an all around sub, the Fi Q is a SQ rated sub. The BL and BTL subs Fi have are SPL subs. You may want to look into the Fi Q. Great sub. Another woofer that is excellent is the SSA Xcon. Great SQ woofer as well. The options on the Fi site are things you can upgrade to make the sub a little "better", letting the sub handle more RMS and such. Going with the Fi Q or SSA Xcon you could run 1000 - 1500 rms and not need to worry about an upgraded alt. You would want to still do the big 3 though, to help maintain your voltage. Plus finding an amp to power them wont be such an issue. An AQ1200D is a nice amp and its $249 shipped. A sundown 1000D goes for $315 shipped. If you wanted a nice custom enclosure, there is a guy on this forum who makes outstanding enclosures, I had him make mine.
One thing to remember is everything is going to be about the install and quality products. 1000 rms is more than enough for what you're looking for. I run a single 12 w7 on a 500/1 and my car is plenty loud. It plays the lows great and can be heard far away no problem. I scored 138.5 dB when I had my car tested and thats running a SQL enclosure, on 500 rms. So if you get a nice 15 on a clean 1k rms, in a nice enclosure, you'll be set no problem.
You could buy my idmaxv2d4 from me for 200 bucks shipped. 1000 rms, very well known sq woofer that hits lows with no problem...i think ud like it . It compares with my custom tc9 and ssa icon 12 ... they are very similar in the 2.5 cu ft box i have put em in. If interested just ask for a pic.
Sweet guys, thanks a lot for the information. It really helped me out a lot. It's awesome that you guys are really helpful. Sorry for being a newbie, it's just I don't have much time to mess with this stuff. Do you guys think the fi ssd is better or idmax2vd4? I checked online and it's the same price except the fi ssd is a dollar cheaper.. I really don't know much about subs, I just want my car to sound sexy while rolling down the street and turn some heads while I'm at it, naw mean jelly bean? I might be interested in buying those subs, send me some pics boss.
The IDmax is a great SQ woofer, rumored to be one of the best, same league as the JL w6. It wouldn't be a bad choice. If you really wanted a system that slammed and you had the room, do a couple Fi SSDs in a custom ported enclosure, and run an AQ1200D to them, showing them around 1200 rms.