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Bronze Member Username: AllthingsfreshPost Number: 64 Registered: Apr-10 | Not sure which amp to get for my comps.. 4 front comps, which are going to be alpine type r spr-17s and spr-13c... or should i go with the spr-13s? Do i need the extra pair of tweeters or just the speakers? but so i was thinking of powering all of these with a alpine v-power mrp-m500 amp ... but could i go with a pdx-f4 amp or is that too much power for these comps ?? Also another question.. I'm going with a kinetik 1800 under the hood and 2400 in the trunk. after doing the big3, am i going to need to connect the power AND ground 0 gauge from the 1800 up front to the 2400 in the trunk? And if i get a distribution block from the 2400 battery to the sub amp(saz-3500d), should the input be 1/0 and output be 4gauge or all 1/0 ? basically does the 1/0 need to go straight into the amp or with the distribution block it can be 1/0 in and 4 out with the 4 going into the power and ground holes of the amp? Get what i'm trying to say? lol sorry if i overdid myself.. i'm just not sure how to wire all of this with the distribution blocks and what sizes to get. i was on the stinger site and theres many different ones just don't wanna get the wrong one. |
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Bronze Member Username: AllthingsfreshPost Number: 65 Registered: Apr-10 | or maybe even a sax-100.4 ?? |
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Bronze Member Username: AllthingsfreshPost Number: 66 Registered: Apr-10 | come on anyone.. and do i need to get a battery isolator? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfPost Number: 13571 Registered: Dec-03 | if you have room in the doors for two pair of 2-way comps, and the money for them, why not just go with a 3-way setup instead? Then you can bridge that alpine 4 channel amp and drive the 3-ways with the bridged amp into 2 channels with more power @ 4 ohms. this is how you run two batteries. just get the kinetik 2400 for the back. leave your starter battery alone, and use an isolator as follows: http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/battiso.html for wire sizes, this will depend on the amount of total current draw at peak, and the length of wire. there is a chart for this at the bottom of this page, which I think I've given you a few times now. http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/charging.html use 1/0 for the big 3. use 1/0 for the battery isolator to feed current from the alternator to the back of the car. use 1/0 of smaller, but use the same size wire as you use from block to amp for positives, when you wire from the battery terminals and amplifiers to the ground points use 1/0 from battery terminal in back to the distribution block (fused block) then you can, if desired, use 2 or 4 gauge if the current capacity is sufficient for the length, to go from teh block to each amp for short runs. don't ground all the amps to the same bolt. use separate chassis grounds for each amp. |
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Bronze Member Username: AllthingsfreshPost Number: 69 Registered: Apr-10 | Yea i'm going to go with the 3-way instead.. Which brand and model would you suggest glass? But just one 2400 in the back? is that gonna be enough for the 3500 rms? or so... i guess it would. cuz your always right.lol and yea you have given me that haha thanks as always! |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfPost Number: 13592 Registered: Dec-03 | well, the battery will depend on two factors. current draw, and time. the battery has a rating of Ah or ampere-hours, which tells you how many amps it can supply for how many hours. the more amps, the fewer hours. you need to look at that, compare it with your system, and see if it will meet our needs. If this is an SPL competition system for sanctioned events, I'd go with a bank of batteries. If this is for personal use, one should most likely do the job, since at prolonged listening, you won't have the volume *that* loud, and for brief "turn it up then back down" showing off, it should do just fine. |