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New member Username: Jdogg2121Post Number: 8 Registered: Feb-09 | Im debating on whether to 2 12s or 1 15. I had 2 L5 12s that i got for mad cheap but sadly they blew a few weeks back. I have a JBL BP1200.1 amp and the subs were wired at 1ohm. Probably not the smartest idea wiring it like that but what the hell they were only $150 in a sealed box on craigslist. I really like the square kicker subs despite all the talk that they arent that good for the money. With the amp that i have i was wondering what the better choice would be 2 12's or 1 15". thanks |
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New member Username: Soufeyez812Post Number: 2 Registered: Mar-10 | get the 2--12's they sound better plus 2--12's will hit alot harder than 1---15" sub.... |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12612 Registered: Dec-03 | https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/626082.html |
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Bronze Member Username: Jdogg2121Post Number: 11 Registered: Feb-09 | okay so prob the 2 12" subs.... now i have a JBL BP1200.1 mono block amp prob pushing around 1400 rms, both kicker L7's are 750 watt rms apiece with this be sufficient with plugging both of them into the amp will it split the rms apart meaning 700 watts to each sub? or will it run the full 1400 watts to each sub? This has been a question that i have longed to learn about because i dont want to double the rms on these subs and blow them within say the first week.... thanks |
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Platinum Member Username: Rovin1 15 = 152.5 DBs ...Trinidad & T... Post Number: 16105 Registered: Jul-05 | say NO to poorly built & not so good sounding L7 google re audio ...check the SXX or fi car audio - BL series ... |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 316 Registered: May-09 | Incriminator audio lethal injections |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 317 Registered: May-09 | And if ur amp is a mono block rated to do 1400 rms. Y would it put out 2800 rms when u hook 2 subs to it. It won't. 1400 rms will be split |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12635 Registered: Dec-03 | the bp1200.1 puts out 600 watts RMS @ 4 ohms, 1200 watts @ 2 ohms, and 1200 watts @ 1 ohm. with two 4 ohm subs wired in parallel, or even a pair of 2 ohm subs wired in parallel, each one is going to get about 600 watts RMS at full output. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jdogg2121Post Number: 12 Registered: Feb-09 | the bp1200.1 puts out 600 watts RMS @ 4 ohms, 1200 watts @ 2 ohms, and 1200 watts @ 1 ohm. with two 4 ohm subs wired in parallel, or even a pair of 2 ohm subs wired in parallel, each one is going to get about 600 watts RMS at full output. yes the amp says it is rated at 1200w i see exactly what your saying but i am under the impression that amps are under rated and put out a little more then what they say they do. Alright so it would be 600 rms apiece which is underpowered but i have a feeling the amp is putting out a little more then 1200w. |
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Silver Member Username: Wackzirth88K-town, Il U.S. Post Number: 318 Registered: May-09 | U won't notice a difference between 1200 and 1400 watts. Are u absolutely set on kicker? If so I'd go with cvx's over l7s. If not there's better options out there and might save u some money. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12655 Registered: Dec-03 | 1200 on average, yes. the BP series came with a birth sheet that stated their exact output at time of production. Most of the ones I saw were in the 1250-1300 range if I recall. Those amps came out some time ago. Anyway yeah, even double the power is only an increase of +3dB, and audibly, double the volume is between +6 to +10dB (ten times the power) so 1200 to 1400 is barely if even audible. I was really just pointing out that the BP series is regulated to put out the same power at 2 or 1 ohm loads, but it is rated to handle 1 ohm. That does stress the power supply though and I have seen a couple fail at 1 ohm, so I would strongly advise you leave it at 2 if you can. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jdogg2121Post Number: 13 Registered: Feb-09 | Thanks GlassWolf... i will keep it at 2 ohms and wire the dual 4 ohm l7's at a 2 ohm load. I just have one question why does everyone shittt on L7's ive heard this from a lot of people. Are they that bad? I checked ebay and the L7's are the same price as the cvxs... from what i have heard from many other people that the L7's are the best subs that kicker makes besides the solo x. Idk im hooked on the square subs and they sound pretty good. What r your thoughts on the big 3 and maybe an HO alternator? do you think this will be necessary? I had a decent amount of dimming of the headlights when I had the L5's hooked up. thanks again. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, SC USA Post Number: 12680 Registered: Dec-03 | for SPL the L7 has more output than the CVX, but the CVX is a much much cleaner sub if you're after SQ. Here's my gripe(s) with square subs, and the Kicker ones in particular. The square design puts an uneven stress on the cone structure. It has higher stress at the corners, which causes cone flex and thuse distortion. A round cone will have even stress all the way around since it's uniformly shaped throughout it's circumference. Also, due to the design of the solobaric, the excursion is limited in comparison to a well made round driver. I've also seen a lot of issues with tinsel lead slap, and tinsel lead and surround separation with these drivers over the years, aalthough Kicker is very good about warranty replacements when it happens. I just really prefer to stick to a high excursion round subwoofer, with a good BL curve, like the RE XXX, Fi Q series, and the like. I'm a SQ guy though, not SPL. As for the 'big 3' they are useful in that factory OE wiring is often adequte for the demands of the car itself, but not designed to handle the load presented by the addition of high current amplifiers. The same can be said for the stock alternator. Fine for the car, not for addition of high current demand components in addition to that. I'm a strong believer in high output alternators, especially with modern high urrent, high output 1000+ wat RMS amplifiers, even with class D efficiency that's still 100+ amperes of current. |