I currently have 2 Kicker CVX 12s with 2 Kicker 1000.1 amps. One for each speaker. I have to red tops at 1000 cranking amps with a 950 Amp battery style capacitor. Also a HO Alt. (I think it puts out 200+ amps while driving, not sure I put it in about 2 years ago). I've been rocking this set up in my 2door blazer for about 2 years and it doesn't quake anywhere near what I want. I was thinking about getting some Kicker Solo-baric l7 15s and deleting my back seat and putting the CVXs on one amp and the Solos on the other. But I read on here and it seems like everyone is talking down on the Solos. My friend used to have two of them on a Matts pro 1000.1 amp and they quaked. I mean my windows would rattle when he was 3 or 4 blocks away. So I don't think there utter $hit like everyone says but I want the best for my money. I was thinking about changing to yellow tops because I got the red tops on the back door special when my friend worked at auto zone. So I figured I could sell them or try to do a swap out at an auto parts store. An I will sell the CVX 12s if needed so I got about 600 bucks to spend and probably close to a grand if I sell the 12's too. I also have a Hi-fonics 1200.2 amp sitting in storage I'm trying to sell. So i can spend a nice chunk of change on the speakers. Any suggestions for some subs that will move the earth with my set up? I can give complete measurements for the box if needed.
People put down the solo's because of their lack of sound quality. They'll get plenty loud and "quake" but that's about all you're going to get out of them. The Fi's as Rovin said are a good choice. They'll get plenty loud while still sounding good.
Yeah I want something to move a lot of air so I was thinking along the lines of a 15 but I see there is a BTL 18. But then on the other hand I've heard that the bigger the sub the harder it is to hit every note. So would it be more sensible to get three or four 10s? I want it to quake but I also want extremely good sound quality. How do I know the response time? Suggestion or knowledge of this?
theres a "noobish" misconception that 10s are good for rock n fast drum beats and 15s and 18s are just for the lows... It's INSTALL dependent!!! A proper install can make a $100 sub sound great...however, a sh1tty box can make a $10,000 sub sound like poo
2-12" cvx on 2K? ^^^ that by no means would be loud enough for me. Not even close, really. I could easily understand wanting to get louder than ~140-143 db(just an educated guess). It don't start gettin' fun till150+..
Well my system is loud, I have the noise violation tickets to show that. Loudness isn't what I'm after though, I want earth shaking bass. I've been in cars with systems that hit so hard you can barely move your arms up. I just want it to quake!
Rovin said don't mix different types of speakers. Does this mean sizes(10s,12s,15s, ect...) or do you mean brands and series?
I was thinking a cheaper fix to my problem could be to get a box for my 12s exactly at specs and add a set of CVX 15s in a box exactly at specs?
Or get one FI BTL 18 and bridge my two 1000.1 amps together?
is it possible to hook up 2 amps in parallel to each other? Say the outputs like connect positive from one amp to negative on the other and then use the positive and negative that is left from the 2 amps? Would this bridge them like a 2 channel amp?