Cars screwed up! help?

 

Silver Member
Username: Ericmb

Waycross, Georgia United States

Post Number: 246
Registered: Nov-08
my 2nd ssd came in today.. i went outside first thing to drive my car to the shop so i could put them both in the box and drop em in the trunk, and my car wouldnt start. i had my papa jump me off and drove out to the shop, left it crunk up for a few min and turned it off. went inside the shop for a min and then went back outside to move my car a little. nothing happened... i got my friend to jump me off and left it running for a while, put my subs in and turned them on but about halfway turned up my amp shuts off everytime. thought my subs were 1100w rms? or is something else wrong...... help please
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 2119
Registered: Aug-07
iirc, ssd's are 800wrms...

someone correct me if im wrong.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ericmb

Waycross, Georgia United States

Post Number: 247
Registered: Nov-08
thats what it says, but i got the upgrade that adds 2-300 watts... but still, thats 1600 watts, my amp is maybe 1300.. i only had the amp turned up a little under half way and could only run it maybe 20 seconds at 2 under the volume i usually listen to it to. it was hitting, i expected more, but i think itll hit harder if i upgrade alt and batt? btw, i have it wired up to 4 ohms now. :-(
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

York, Pennsylvania

Post Number: 12819
Registered: Jun-04
What year make and model vehicle do you have?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 1992
Registered: Apr-07
Did you check to see if your alternator is going bad?
Did you check to see if your battery is bad?
If you need to jump start your car something is wrong with the electrical system, not the sub.
 

Gold Member
Username: The_image_dynamic

San Diego, California

Post Number: 5394
Registered: Dec-06
Alt
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

York, Pennsylvania

Post Number: 12821
Registered: Jun-04
^^^Thats what im betting on. Probably isnt big enough thats why i asked year make a model.
 

Gold Member
Username: The_image_dynamic

San Diego, California

Post Number: 5395
Registered: Dec-06
Troy nailed it i was just finalizing.

Start your car, pull your positive battery terminal. If it keeps running it's your battery, if it dies it's your alt.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10696
Registered: Jul-06
Come on Brad... I really didn't expect to see you posting something like that.

DON'T ever pull the battery terminal off with the vehicle running, thats a good way to fry the electronics in your alternator. Doing that is something you usually hear from ametuar mechanics and people that don't really know how electrical systems work and it's asking for trouble.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ericmb

Waycross, Georgia United States

Post Number: 248
Registered: Nov-08
i never said it was the sub... i knew it wasnt the sub. i fixed the reason for it not starting.. it was corrosion build up on the terminal and not making a good connection. the main thing is the fact that im HAVING to upgrade the alt for a 1200w amp. didnt think i would have to do that. but i do have a 40amp alt. went to autozone today and had my batt and alt tested, both were fine.. its a 1995 honda accord lx. 3.5 4cyl..
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10700
Registered: Jul-06
Think about it, a 1200w amp can draw over 100 amps of current and you've got a 40 amp alt. Not a good situation.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

York, Pennsylvania

Post Number: 12826
Registered: Jun-04
Im not busting on you eric but im so amazed that people dont expect problems with 1000 to 1200 watt systems on stock electrical....some of the largest stock alts are usually 100-105 amps and part of that is for the vehicles basic electrical needs....bottom line tho is they should be checking what size alt they have to no what amp they should buy....unless they are upgrading their alt then buy according to that. The other part of the problem is this thinking that it takes two subs to get loud when in reality from what ive seen on the meter the second sub usually only adds 2 db more loudness. It can be up to 6 db but that is rare.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ericmb

Waycross, Georgia United States

Post Number: 249
Registered: Nov-08
i see, i see. if i upgrade my alt and batt situation, will my amp cutting off problem be fixed? i never once saw the amp clip, nor were the subs even moving much, yet it was cutting off.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

York, Pennsylvania

Post Number: 12827
Registered: Jun-04
if you can get a large enough alt then youll be ok....dont play your system like that without an upgraded alt or you will eventually break something.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ericmb

Waycross, Georgia United States

Post Number: 250
Registered: Nov-08
okay. understandable. i was planning on upgrading my alt anyways. they are just so dang expensive. icant seem to find one under 450.00 and i think the biggest i saw for around this price was a 240 or something of the sort...
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

York, Pennsylvania

Post Number: 12828
Registered: Jun-04
you dont need one that big
 

Silver Member
Username: Ericmb

Waycross, Georgia United States

Post Number: 251
Registered: Nov-08
what size would you recommend? its hard to price them for my vehicle, because only like 1 website has them for my vehicle and thats mechman i think...
 

Silver Member
Username: Ericmb

Waycross, Georgia United States

Post Number: 252
Registered: Nov-08
170 maybe?
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTION, La. Lake Charles...

Post Number: 4061
Registered: May-07
150-200 amp would do fine fo that system... Upgrade the big 3 when doing the alt upgrade.



I'm curious... If you hav e a DMM or volt meter, what is your voltage sitting at @ idle?

what is it at when the amp cuts off?


if you would, find out then post. thanks
 

Silver Member
Username: Ericmb

Waycross, Georgia United States

Post Number: 253
Registered: Nov-08
everytime i try to use my dmm with my system, it never works. i have no idea why. like, i tried to set my gains with my dmm and it wouldnt show NEAR the reading i was expected to see.
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTION, La. Lake Charles...

Post Number: 4064
Registered: May-07
most likely user error...

Set DMM to DCv. then pt red lead on possitive and Black on Neg on the amps power terminals. with car started and system not on or turned all the way down write down the voltage.

Next, while keeping the probes on the same spots turn the system up enough to where the amp starts to cut off, what was voltage at that point?


If the DMM is not getting a reading that way, either change the battery or buy a new one.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ericmb

Waycross, Georgia United States

Post Number: 255
Registered: Nov-08
i didnt try doing that yet. was real busy today. but when i tried to set the gains for my hdc on my aq1200, i think the nominal voltage was like 36.4 or something, set to dc voltage 200, red to posi black to neg, on a 50hz tone it was reading like 14v or something with gains maxed. i never could get it to read the right thing, so i just kept it as i had it...
 

Gold Member
Username: Crayola0

Portage, Wisconsin

Post Number: 2586
Registered: Jun-06
this happened to me too. idk y but my amp would just stay on after the car was off and it took about a week to finally drain the battery with me driving. so i just installed a toggle switch
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