Is there anything better than a 12 w7?

 

New member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
Hi guys, Ive been doing tones of research and failed to find a good sub. I got a peugeot 207 so have a tiny trunk and weak battery(which i cant change coz of the warranty) I cant fit a 13 w7 and 1000.1 coz its 1.5 ohms and i was told it would kill the battery. I love bass. i want the best. is there any single sub better than the 12w7 or will that do the job. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE ADVISE I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE IT. DONT KNOW ANY EXPERTS PLEASE HELP! oh yeah and i was told to build a bandpass box? is that the best for bass??
 

Gold Member
Username: Deadrabit

Marionville, MO

Post Number: 1584
Registered: Jun-07
well if u want bass that is loud no the W7 is far from the best. if u want only sound quality then then W7 is good but still doesn't sound as good as the W6. for the money i think the W7 and W6 are WAY over priced.
if u want sound quality i would look go to ficaraudio.com and look at the Q.
if u want loud i would go to audioque.com and look at the hdc3 with copper coils.
then get the aq1200 amp. with a crappy battery its going to hurt u but u can always add a 2nd battery, i have some extra kinetic batterys for sale
 

Gold Member
Username: Deadrabit

Marionville, MO

Post Number: 1585
Registered: Jun-07
if u want u can call me 417-258-0329
ur ? is not really the best because no one knows what u want.
i wouldn't get a box like that. make a ported box if it will fit
 

Bronze Member
Username: Texaslegend903

Post Number: 12
Registered: Nov-08
If you are going for the most bass out of a decent size and powered sub then dont go with the w7. I just sold 2 13w7s and they are nothing like what some of the reviews and people on here talk about. Granted, the SQ is Excellent but as far as the kick... not what i hoped for.
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1551
Registered: Aug-07
you werent impressed at all with 2 13w7s???

what was your enclosure?
what amp did you run?
any electrical upgrades to the vehicle?
what vehicle?

2 13w7s should sound AWESOME and plently loud
 

Gold Member
Username: Deadrabit

Marionville, MO

Post Number: 1588
Registered: Jun-07
ya.... 2 13w7s should be getting loud.

the truth on every build is the box makes a bigger difference in how loud and how good it sounds.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Poprocks

Post Number: 91
Registered: Mar-09
You are going to save a sh!t losd of money coming to Ecoustics.com

How much space do you have to work with?
Budget?
Size of sub?

For the most part Ecoustics is a NON mainstream product forum.
 

Gold Member
Username: Frkkevin

Team DLSSuperNatural...

Post Number: 6433
Registered: Nov-05
ill second not being impressed with w7s.. many of the installs that ive heard with them.. do the w6 if you want jl
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles...

Post Number: 3091
Registered: May-07
do you have the hatchback or convertable?


need budget for amp/sub/enclosure.

I'm thinking a single 12 portes on 750-1000 wrms. can still be loud.

I have heard quite a few 13w7 setups in person. Two that I remember were extremely loud and clear, but the rest suc'd.. I was thoroughly impressed with wickedbass's vid. They were moving sh!t for real.. They are still not worth the money imo. But I'm more spl over sq.

How do you like the peugeot 207? I know i could barley fit it that lil mini.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Texaslegend903

Post Number: 13
Registered: Nov-08
Now, dont get me wrong... my 13w7s were loud but nothing special. Especially for what i paid for them. I had them in my 2008 crew cab silverado. I took one of the backseats out and built a sealed box that was around 6-7 cf powered by a kicker zx2500.1. The downfall of the system was the electrical was stock and deffinatly needed some kinetic power in there. I took 2 vids of them before i took them out... i will post them as soon as i get a chance.
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1553
Registered: Aug-07
"electrical was stock "

well theres your problem! your subs probably werent seeing the full power or you were clippin the hell out of the amp. Next time do it right the first time.

2 13w7s should be pure sexxx, u just didnt do it right.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Texaslegend903

Post Number: 14
Registered: Nov-08
yea yea i know... but now i have my new system on the way! Another 2500.1, 2 Kinetik hc2400's, and a Solo X 18!!
 

Gold Member
Username: Deadrabit

Marionville, MO

Post Number: 1594
Registered: Jun-07
this guy will prolly never check his post! hahaha
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nyyfan13

Northern VA

Post Number: 11370
Registered: Jul-06
The only W7 I have heard was weak.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kickittothacurb

U.S.

Post Number: 68
Registered: Mar-09
Dude first off, Kicker f**king sucks hardcore, JL is completely overpriced, if you want something that will hit, i would say go with something from RE or something from TREO or FI.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Poprocks

Post Number: 92
Registered: Mar-09
"Dude first off, Kicker f**king sucks hardcore"

Wrong!


"JL is completely overpriced"

I agree.
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles...

Post Number: 3098
Registered: May-07
depends what kicker products you are talking about.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Poprocks

Post Number: 96
Registered: Mar-09
Kicker amps
CVR
CVX
Solo X
Are solid products

And the L5,L7 get loud as they are design to do.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Liveyman

Indianapolis, IN

Post Number: 17
Registered: Apr-09
I had 2 10W7's and hated them. I had two different vented boxes built for them and it didn't make any difference. They were running off of a 1000/1 (electrical was upgraded also). They sounded ok, but when you spend that much money you expect WOW! Maybe the 13's sound better.
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1554
Registered: Aug-07
"I had 2 10W7's and hated them. I had two different vented boxes built for them and it didn't make any difference."

who built the enclosures???


all of you who say the w7 isnt a great sub probably didnt know what you were doing... ive heard the 12w7 and 10w7 in the HO box and i was very impressed. they both hit every not with great accuracy and got plenty loud for the power they were on.



"but when you spend that much money you expect WOW"

-agreed
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1555
Registered: Aug-07
"yea yea i know... but now i have my new system on the way! Another 2500.1, 2 Kinetik hc2400's, and a Solo X 18!!"

i hope your not wanting any SQ, because that solo x is pure SPL. and i didnt see "HO Alt" anywhere in your "upgrades". that shoulda been the first thing bought when designing a system with 2 kicker 2500s. they are the most efficient amps and will need a HO alt and few batts.
 

Silver Member
Username: M0nstar

Toledo, OH U.S.

Post Number: 250
Registered: Dec-08
^^ just ONE zx2500 needs a HO alt.
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1556
Registered: Aug-07
that was my point MisterLDR...
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1557
Registered: Aug-07
i cant edit it anymore but i meant to say that the Kicker 2500s AREN'T the most efficient amps...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kickittothacurb

U.S.

Post Number: 70
Registered: Mar-09
sorry i just hate kicker, i've never even had their products (NEVER WILL). it just seems like their stuff is too overpriced when you can get something like Dual and make em sound like the same crap.
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles...

Post Number: 3108
Registered: May-07
Andrew, don't you think that you might be axaggerating a lil. You cannot compare Dual and Kicker. Kicker makes some very good products, and some not-so-great( but all are above the trash brands--pyrmid,boss,ect).. Dual is garbage all the way around. You don't have to like Kicker, but at least be honest when dissin' em..
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jordon32990

Post Number: 27
Registered: Mar-09
I had a 12w7 in a crappy looking homemade box that hit really hard, loud, and clear. I bought the JL HO box for it and it was nowhere near as loud. Still sounded good, but the box makes a huge difference. Was not impressed with the HO box... At all. lol
 

Silver Member
Username: M0nstar

Toledo, OH U.S.

Post Number: 251
Registered: Dec-08
the only products of kicker that i would EVER use are the CVRs, the amps, and a select few of thier speakers & tweets.

andrew, yeah, i'd admit, you could probably build a shitty box for a kicker sub, then build a really good box for a dual sub and it would sound the same, but really you could do that with... say a 12" RE SE and a dual?

so your theory isn't too strong.
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles...

Post Number: 3109
Registered: May-07
CVX is as good as or better than the cvr. . The cvt is not a bad slim mount sub for the budget minded. There wiring is great. I don't like ANY mid/highs components or not that I have ever heard. The Solo X's that I ran did the job and never gave me a problem..., although I would never use them again, because I would try other brands that I haven't got to run yet.I really LOVE my KQ-9 EQ. It helps make my front stage come alive. I would run kicker amps in certain installs... None that involved going below rated impedance stability.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Timbuc

Post Number: 25
Registered: Dec-06
IMO.... Plenty of subs out there can spank the W7 line BUT the W7 has been the bench mark for all...
Well over 4 year or more and still have not change one bit from the ground up. If its not broken why fix it. Please folks just give them credit. W7 line is the true bench mark.
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1558
Registered: Aug-07
Andrew,

you said "sorry i just hate kicker, i've never even had their products (NEVER WILL). "

if you have never owned their products, then you have NO room to talk...



kicker SX amps are very nice amps.
 

Silver Member
Username: M0nstar

Toledo, OH U.S.

Post Number: 253
Registered: Dec-08
^^^^

got those

 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1562
Registered: Aug-07
<<<<<<<<<<

jealous... i would like one for my front stage. pics?



to the OP, if you ever come back, whats your MAX budget for your system?
 

New member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
hi guys, wow loads of comments. thanks alot learned alot from u. guys thing is im in dubai and we dont get all the brands here. so im stuck with basics. i have one more question though???

can any one tell me if 2 12w7,s will go with a zx2500.1 kicker amp?? and if they will go well how should i wire knowing i have a smaller battery and cant change it??? should i buy 2 x 2 ohm and wire series to make 4 ohm????


suggestions?? and once again thanks for the help..


and yeah the peugeot is the hatchback.. tiny trunk but if i put 2 w7s i will put the back seat down and give it the whole cabin space/....

?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Texaslegend903

Post Number: 21
Registered: Nov-08
yea that would be great if jl audio made 2ohm w7s haha... i had a 2500.1 pushing my 13w7s and wouldnt recommend that to you. the kicker amp is 2 ohm stable so if you do get 2500.1 you had better get the 3 ohm w7s because you will need serious power upgrades to make that amp run at 1.5 ohm
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jordon32990

Post Number: 28
Registered: Mar-09
A JL 1000.1 would power two 12w7's more efficiently IMO.
I have one on a 13w7 with a 1 farad cap in an all electrical stock 85 Caprice. Very little dimming in the lights. Wired at 3 ohm, (MM shows 2.5 ohm resistance)
12w7 rms handling is 500-1000 so you could run two off of that amp...
 

Silver Member
Username: M0nstar

Toledo, OH U.S.

Post Number: 254
Registered: Dec-08
abarca- were you talking to me????
 

Bronze Member
Username: Kickittothacurb

U.S.

Post Number: 71
Registered: Mar-09
well yes, i was def going overboard comparing kicker with dual, but i don't have to own them to know what i think of them, I've heard them plenty of times, and no they aren't that bad, i just wouldn't go outta my way to buy them. sorry for bashing your brand.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Texaslegend903

Post Number: 22
Registered: Nov-08
Fair enough Andrew... Everyone is entitled to thier opinion on here contrary to what some people may say haha.
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1566
Registered: Aug-07
MisterLDR,

yes. lol
 

New member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 3
Registered: Apr-09
ok guys, seems there are alot of disputes over kicker and jl.. lemme ask you one question then to close it. if we were to compare 1 jl 12w7 run by a 1000.1 jl amp .....................................................................or......... .......... a kicker solo x 12inch being run by a zx2500.1...

what would give a bigger kick. im talking about spl not really for quality ...

anyone with experince????


kicker or jl???
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles...

Post Number: 3119
Registered: May-07
Considering the enclosure are to specs, then the Solo X would be quite a bit louder. 2.5X the power and a pure SPL sub, against a sql sub on 1K... not quite a fair comparison. lol
 

New member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 4
Registered: Apr-09
guys those are my options..

1) jl 12w7 and 1000.1

2) solo x 12" and zx 2500.1



what does the job??? spl?? intense bass??
 

New member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 5
Registered: Apr-09
hey mark... thanks for the quick response... so ur saying a solo x would be more damaging than a 12w7 but not as much quality as the jl..

its cool coz im after spl...
one more thing.. how do i connect them..

the solo x comes as 4 ohm dual coil or 2 ohm,, should i get the 4 ohm and wire the coils parrallel so it gets down to 2 ohm?? \

sorry if im mistaken i dont know about the technical bit of it??


cheers mark
 

Gold Member
Username: Snowball123

West Allis, WI

Post Number: 2647
Registered: Oct-07
my option is H.O. Alt first and battery(s) before the system upgrade.
 

New member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 6
Registered: Apr-09
only one problem with that.. my warranty on the whole car is gone if i tamper with battery,, does it mean i can never enjoy the sound system to its max???

the guys at the dealership are being **** they like if u tamper with battery the electrical system is designed only for a certain power and if u give too much u could mess up the electrics?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jordon32990

Post Number: 29
Registered: Mar-09
If you can't upgrade your electrical system, you aren't going to want that Kicker Amp.
All you need with the JL is a capacitor and you're good to go.
It wont be as loud as the Kicker, but I'm sure you will be satisfied.
 

New member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 7
Registered: Apr-09
ok i guess i can upgrade the electrical.. But im already stretched for the system and my heart is on the solo x.. Do u know how much it could cost approximately??
 

New member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 8
Registered: Apr-09
what about a 10 or 12 farad capacitor?? do i need to upgrade then???
 

Bronze Member
Username: Texaslegend903

Post Number: 23
Registered: Nov-08
the solo x would be much louder. But without electrical upgrades you WILL NOT get anywhere near full potential on the 2500.1
 

New member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 9
Registered: Apr-09
what about the capacitor scotty?
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles...

Post Number: 3120
Registered: May-07
I'm not sure that you will be able to find a HO alt for that vehicle.. That being said, I wouldn't run over 1000-1200 wrms(and that is only if you add a 2nd battery and big 3 upgrade) The Factory alt is likely ~70 amps or so.

As for you getting the W7 or the Solo X... I vote neither. I just answered the "which would have more SPL" question. The kx2500 is WAY too much for your electrical. I would get a single 12" AQ HDC3 alum coil and power it with a AQ1200 amp. Put it in a 2.5^3 ft tuned to 35 hz. with 40^2 in port area.

Now as for living in Dubai, well after checking on shipping from my area to there. well it is right at $500 us. So of the two setups(Jl-SoloX). The JL is you obvious choice. If you try running the kx2500 on stock charging and battery., You can damage the amp over time due to voltage drop. What other subs can you get over there.

IDK what you financial situation is, but I will offer to Order the AQ SUB/AMP, have it shipped to me, then reship to you, but you would have to cover the Shipping from me to you and the cost of the equipment up front. you would be looking at ~950 us dollars. I would not make a penny off of the transaction. But that is cool. I offered knowing that. But that would require you trusting me.. But the offer is on the table.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Texaslegend903

Post Number: 24
Registered: Nov-08
Yea even with a Huge capacitor you wouldnt be able to run the 2500.1 ... im telling you from experience, that amp is no joke. It needs LOTS of power because it puts out LOTS of power! Your alt is putting around 70 amps. Mine was putting around 130 and i had no where near the amperage i needed. If you cannot upgrade elecrical i would strongly advise getting a smaller system. If you want JL audio, get a 12w1 or 13tw5. They both put out good volume but at the same time would only need 300-500 watts.
 

Silver Member
Username: Poprocks

Post Number: 109
Registered: Mar-09
A capacitor is NOT a bandaid,its just something else your alternator has to charge.

Upgrade alternator,stock wiring/batteries and fu(k the capacitor.

Mark the (alum) HDC3 can handle much much more power than the HDC3(copper),so if it were me I would get with the AudioQue HDC3(copper) on a Aq1200D.
 

New member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 10
Registered: Apr-09
Thanks scotty..
ok so I still want the zx2500.1..

I will upgrade the alternator and battery from the dealers themselves. But how many amps will i need to run it??

what should I tell the dealer then, how many amps battery should i Upgrade too?? and will it affect the engine?? shouldnt right?

thanks
 

Bronze Member
Username: Texaslegend903

Post Number: 25
Registered: Nov-08
the 2500.1 is 2 ohm stable which is a plus for electrical because it wont pull near as much power as a 1 ohm stable amp. So if you get the 2500.1 and want a w7 you better get the 3 ohm sub and wire it to 3 ohm. But if you want full potential get a sub and wire it to 2 ohm. If you do that and get a Kinetik hc2400 with the HO alternator you will be set!
 

Gold Member
Username: Zacdavis

Beloit, Wi

Post Number: 1748
Registered: Dec-03
Scotty,
"...is 2 ohm stable which is a plus for electrical because it wont pull near as much power as a 1 ohm stable amp"

How did you come up with that statement?
If an amp draws 100amps or 200amps or whatever ever it's irrelevant as to what impedance the amp is running.
The impedance is not an important factor when determining the efficiency, the relativity between amperage draw and current output is.
We could use 3 amps as examples. All put out a measured 1000watts rms, but each at different loads...
A 1000watts@1ohm
B 1000watts@2ohm
C 1000watts@4ohm
From that information it is impossible to learn which amp will put the largest strain on your electrical system. (because we don't know the efficiencies of the amps)

You mentioned that the 2ohm Kicker amp would put less strain on his system in comparison to a 1ohm amp. Without knowing the efficiency it is impossible to know.
From experience, I would say the exact opposite. Usually, and I use that term loosely, but usually lower impedance amplifiers pass current more efficiently, example...most A/B amps rarely run any lower than 2ohms, and most ClassD amps run at 1ohm, yet the Class D is a more efficient topology. It's the design of the amp that determines it's efficiency.

In our 1000watt examples, lets add some info...
A 1000watts@1ohm Class D
B 1000watts@2ohm Class A/B
C 1000watts@4ohm Class D
....still, we have no idea which amp has the lowest draw on the charging system, or in other words which is the most efficient, but, one easy indicator would be simply looking at the fuse ratings. This can give us a rough idea as to how efficient it is.

A typical 1ohm 1000watt Class D amp has 80amps of fusing...a typical 1000watt Class A/B amp usually has over 100amps of fusing. Thus, the 1ohm amp is more efficient, it drew less current to produce 1000 watts.
Of course, the easiest way to find out what the amp draws would be simply looking at the owners manual and reading the specs for maximum draw haha.
I hope I cleared this up.

But geeze, this thread, all the haters, my lord haha, I'm sorry but Kicker makes some badass equipment and JL W7's are awesome. IDK, there, I said it haha.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Texaslegend903

Post Number: 28
Registered: Nov-08
Zac, you may be right. I have just always been told that say a 1000 watt 1 ohm stable amp would need more power to hit the 1000 watts than say a 1000 watt 2 ohm stable amp. But thats just what ive been told so ive always went by that. Im always open to learn differently though haha... and yes i agree with you, Kicker and JL audio are BOTH top notch in my opinion
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 11
Registered: Apr-09
what ever happened to buy an amp and a subwoofer and your done??? haha. wow learnt alot from u guys...

so im still confused?? if i were to ask you? forget the price factor in concideration,, but if you had little space( for say one sub only) and had to choose between any kicker product and any jl audio product( knowing i have a tiny battery)


what combi would u choose??
for bass and efficiency???

a kicker 1000.1 and solo baric 15" \

jl audio???

say u could choose any product from that range?

knowing you guys know what ur talking about ill buy what u recommend and thats final??

but take into account im putting in a 12 farad capacitor and thats it, battery is small.

cheers guys.
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles...

Post Number: 3183
Registered: May-07
i would go 1 -12w7v2 on jl1000/1v2 . Should be plenty and sound good..
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 12
Registered: Apr-09
ok im going for the 12 w7. i guess that will work fine with the battery.

now for the highs.. i was told that if i wanted good mids and highs i should go for the hertz speakers.. but i checked the price they are expensive??

if i can afford? are they worth it.. says 150 watts rms.. meaning i will get another 600 watts there. ??

cheerz
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles...

Post Number: 3198
Registered: May-07
what brands that make component set do you have access too?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 13
Registered: Apr-09
hertz... pioneer.. jl audio.. kicker.. jbl... basic stuff..


by the way... i decided to get the 12w7 but is it cool if i run it with a kicker 1000.1 or must i get a jl 1000.1

will i compromise the sound if i use the kicker??

because the kicker is half the price of the jl..

by the way guys i was checking the hertz site yesterday i think they got the best subs in the world !!!! too bad they too expensive and i aint got a battery.
 

Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 6661
Registered: Feb-06
you could get the kicker and be fine. personally, i like them better than the jl amps.

as for the comps., i'd definately go with the hertz.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 10380
Registered: Jul-06
You will only get 750w or so out of the kicker not 1000 since the sub wires to 3 ohm..... the JL amp will give you 1000w at any impedance.
 

Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 6662
Registered: Feb-06
but he'll be better off with the kicker. 750 will do that sub just fine, and unless metering it it wont be any huge difference. and it seems he's keeping the electrical stock, and the kicker is alot more efficeint. and cheaper.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Terra

Post Number: 58
Registered: Feb-09
Don't buy the stupid cap haha.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 14
Registered: Apr-09
so if you are saying the kicker is more efficient then is it possible to run a kicker 1500.1 on a jl 13w7 with a 10 farad capacitor and my same electrics.. wired to 3 ohm i should get like 900 watts out of the amp?? which is perfect for the sub..


please tell me its possible coz Im getting delivery
of the 12w7 next week and can still change it to a 13w7 and a kicker 1500.1 if it wont kill my car??





?? oh yeah and no way im getting hertz price is sky high!!! gonna stick with pioneer and get 4 more 6.9" in the back...

thankd guys
!!!
 

Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 6663
Registered: Feb-06
i would not run that 1500 on stock electrical. and please, DO NOT GET A CAP.!!

and 4 6x9s'? why? if going with pioneer get their premier line of comps. up front and a nice 2 channel amp for them, and either keep the rear speakers stock or replace them and leave them running off the hu.

but personally, spend the extra money on the hertz. i mean, you already got taken to the cleaners when you bought the w7, might as well spend good money on the comps as well.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 15
Registered: Apr-09
hehehe.. thanks for the advice??

so how bout we sum it up like this??

kicker 1000.1 amp
jl audio 12w7
bandpass box
tsunami 10 farad capacitor--
pioneer head unit with 4 volt and 3 preout.
tsunami monster cables
hertz 6.5" 125 watt rms speakers and matching amp( can i connect 2 channels of the head unit 2 one hertz speaker for the front i.e 2channels of 50 watts from my head unit into one hertz speaker, and for the back 2 hertz speakers i get a 2 channel amp to run then 2 x 150 watts rms)


ct mike y are u saying i should not get a capacitor?? please explain im lost??



is that a good system then guys??? i know there might be better out there but got limited brands here...

final verdict guys??
 

Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 6664
Registered: Feb-06
-amp and sub sound good.
-box is shi_t. get a custom one made for it (unless you're talking a custom bandpass, but i doubt it).
-cap.-waste of money. money would be better spent on electrical upgrades.
-for hu, what other brands you have available. not a big fan of pioneer anymore. look into an alpine, kenwood xcelon, eclipse, jvc arsenal, clarion, or higher model panasonics. just my opinion.
-what model hertz? regardless though, they should sound great. i've never heard a set i didn't like.
-and get a 2 channel amp FOR THE FRONT COMPS. leave the rears off hu.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jordon32990

Post Number: 46
Registered: Mar-09
Well, I can say from experience that a small capacitor works well. I had a 1 Farad on my JL 1000 and it helped SIGNIFICANTLY.

10 farad is not necassary by any means. You'd be better off buying a Kinetik battery or some other car audio performance battery if you can afford it.

If not, just a small 1 or 2 Farad Cap helps.
 

Silver Member
Username: Poprocks

Post Number: 149
Registered: Mar-09
DON'T GET A CAP.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jordon32990

Post Number: 47
Registered: Mar-09
Honestly, what is wrong with a small capacitor?
I had almost the same system as he plans on getting. I had a JL 1000 instead of a kicker, and according to ctmike "the kicker is alot more efficeint. and cheaper." so it would help even more than it did in my setup...
I'm not saying it'd be better than electrical upgrades and a Kinetik, because its not, but it still worked out pretty well for me.
If he was getting a much larger system i'd say don't even bother with a cap, but he's not.
So please explain to me why a capacitor is so useless.
Apparently I don't understand the function a cap fulfills. lol
 

Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 6665
Registered: Feb-06
DON'T GET A CAP.

and jordan, please explain how the cap. worked out well for you?

and no, because the kicker is more efficeint and cheaper, does not mean a cap. would help him out even more.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jordon32990

Post Number: 48
Registered: Mar-09
Before I installed a capacitor, all of my dash lights, my headlights, and even the illumination on the HU would dim considerably every time the W7 hit a low note. And occasionally the amp would even cut to low voltage.
After I installed the 1 Farad cap, lights hardly dim, if at all, ever. Never cuts to low volt, even when idle with volume cranked.

If you ask me, thats a pretty good investment if you don't have the money to upgrade electrical and install secondary battery.

Which I didn't at the time I decided to buy a cap, being as though I still have to pay my way through college... lol
 

Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 6666
Registered: Feb-06
everything you said as to why the cap. was a good purchase, is exactly why he shouldn't buy one.

and the dimming of your lights, that's a bad thing. and trying to fix that problem by adding a cap., is just plain stupid.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jordon32990

Post Number: 49
Registered: Mar-09
Then explain to me how that is.
I asked you to earlier and you responded with a question.
Rather than saying that i'm stupid, tell me why you think a cap is so horrible.
Thanks
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 11418
Registered: Jun-04
Id invest in a second battery in the trunk before buying a cap. In my mind getting the electrical right is whats important. And go with a kicker 1500 and set the gains to 1000 watts.
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1575
Registered: Aug-07
caps put more strain on your electrical. they arent a cure for the charging woes, just a bandaid like someone else has already said.

save the money from the cap and get a HO alt to run more than ~1200rms.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jordon32990

Post Number: 50
Registered: Mar-09
Ok, then how exactly does putting strain on the alternanator from a capacitor cause the lights to cease dimming?
I just don't understand how that works...
How i'm seeing this, is that by putting MORE strain on the alt b/c of a cap it stops dimming.
And thats where I get lost. What causes that?
I'm not saying a capacitor is the solution to electrical woes.
I just want to understand where everyone is coming from when they refer to a capacitor as "sh!t"
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1576
Registered: Aug-07
read this:

http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/capacitors.html

it tells all you will need to know.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jordon32990

Post Number: 51
Registered: Mar-09
Thank you! lol
That makes a lot more sense than

"everything you said as to why the cap. was a good purchase, is exactly why he shouldn't buy one.

and the dimming of your lights, that's a bad thing. and trying to fix that problem by adding a cap., is just plain stupid."

Although that comment makes a lot more sense now thanks to that web page.

Thanks again Abarca. Thats the kind of answer i've been waiting to hear. Simply being called stupid was not going to change my opinion. lol
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1577
Registered: Aug-07
nah whoever called ya stupid maybe shoulda said something different. however, a lot of people come on Ecoustics and tell someone who needs help that all they need to do is "get an L7, turn the bassboost all the way up on the amp, and then get a cap"

everyone starts out somewhere, so bookmark that website. its one of the bests out there.

other great sites are:
http://www.the12volt.com/

http://www.bcae1.com/
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles...

Post Number: 3208
Registered: May-07
ctmike is not calling you stupid.. he is a good dude. anyways read this link i am providing.. or anything on Glasswolfs tech papers

http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/capacitors.html
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles...

Post Number: 3209
Registered: May-07
^^^^ Thought I posted this before I left the office at about 6:30. lol
guess I forgot to hit post message lol
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1578
Registered: Aug-07
mark brockman is a copycat...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jordon32990

Post Number: 52
Registered: Mar-09
Well, I am glad I already got rid of my cap now. lol
I honestly thought it was helping...
I bought an Optima Yellow top a while back and have been too busy to install it.
My plan is to Install the Optima as primary bat, and buy an HC1800 Kinetik in place of the cap.
I am also rebuilding my alt to handle the strain of a bigger system.
Anything else I should do?
I just realized I'm asking advice on someone else's thread that they posted asking for advice... hahaha
 

Gold Member
Username: Hittin1

TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles...

Post Number: 3210
Registered: May-07
mark brockman is a copycat...
 

Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 6667
Registered: Feb-06
thanks mark:-)

and jordan, please point out where i called you stupid? i never call anyone stupid (except for a few people that truly are). i suggest reading my post again.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jordon32990

Post Number: 53
Registered: Mar-09
Perhaps I translated "trying to fix that problem by adding a cap., is just plain stupid." too literally.
Or personally for that matter.
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

DUB-C, TX

Post Number: 1581
Registered: Aug-07
he meant that the action of fixing the problem with a capacitor would be stupid, however, you as a person arent stupid...


unless you bought a cap, then you may have just been bullshitted by a bestbuy employee lol
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jordon32990

Post Number: 54
Registered: Mar-09
bought it for $5. lol Sold it for more when I decided to go with an Optima.

I guess its a good thing I got rid of it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 16
Registered: Apr-09
heheh . reading all your post im glad u pached up the little mishap..

however,, the more advice i get the worse of i seem to be...


im not saying ur advice is bad,,, no no it is far from that guys and i really appreciate it,, it is because it is good advice that im in a fix.. what my (uneducated guys) out here are telling me is get a 10 farad and you will be fine.


maybe I can explain the problem once again for everyone to understand



1) MY DEALER SAYS I CANNOT PUT A HIGHER AMP BATTERY OR I WILL LOOSE MY WARRANTY.

2) HE SAID DO WHAT YOU WANT AS LONG AS THE CAR KEEPS ITS ORIGINAL CURRENT GOING AND EVERYTHING STAYS THE SAME,

3) HE DOESNT MIND ME ADDING AN EXTRA BATTERY BUT REFUSED ME TO CHARGE IT WITH THE SAME ALTERNATOR AS HE SAID IT WILL DAMAGE IT CHARGING 2 BATTERIES( I DONT EVEN KNOW IF HE IS TALKIN B.S OR SENSE HERE)

4) SOMEONE TOLD ME I CAN GET A HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR AND IT CAN CHARGE ANOTHER BATTERY WITH THE USE OF AN ISOLATOR. BUT DOES THIS ALTERNATOR FIR IN A PEUGEOT 207-- I DONT KNOW!!

5) I HAVE MY HEART ON A JL AUDIO 13W7 COZ MY BRO HAS ONE AND I BELEIVE STICK TO WHAT YOU KNOW AND IT SOUNDS AWESOME, HOWEVER IF I HAD ALL THE POWER IN THE WORLD I WOULD GET A ZX2500.1 AND A SOLO X 2500 RMS SUB..

i want bass and i finally understand how it all works(partly)

but i still dont know how to install a new battery without affecting the old one at all.. nothing like a h.o alternator is even available here. i can get it down from the states as i got mates there and get someone to install it here,


but is it possible to do this inorder to attain massive spl. is it worth thinknig about it anymore or should i stick with the 12w7. and a 4 hertz speakers.. ???


PLEASE EXPLAIN HOW THE H.O ALTERNATOR WILL CHARGE 2 BATTERIES AND NOT ALTER CURRENT TO THE ORIGINAL ONE AT ALL.. AND WILL IT FIT IN A PEUGEOUT 207RC???

THANKS GUYS./
 

Gold Member
Username: Zacdavis

Beloit, Wi

Post Number: 1749
Registered: Dec-03
Jaimish, in theory, a stock alternator can charge one, two, three, even or more five batteries...the problem is the amperage the alternator discharges will be divided between each battery added. So, instead of one battery receiving lets say 100 amps from the stock alternator, with five batteries in the car it will only provide 20 amps to each battery.

Capacitors work well, and yes, even with a stock charging system. Adding them is like adding batteries, although, you must not drain the power below a certain voltage. Always be attentive of your voltage while listening at high volumes. When your voltage is low, turn the system down, allow the alternator time to recharge the battery/ies/cap.

You can add a second battery without upgrading your alternator, also, you do not need an isolator. However, damage will occur if you play your system long enough to drain the reserve power from your batteries, at that point, the amplifier will be consuming huge spikes of current causing tremendous stress on the alternator...in time, this will cause it to fail.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 17
Registered: Apr-09
thanks zac.. that explains alot to me..

so lets say for argument sake my battery was 50 amps. and adding another battery would make it give only 25 amps.. so if i replaced the stock alternator with a h.o alternator lets say giving 100 amps would it be possible to divide it between 2 batteries giving each one 50 amps again( keeping my warranty manager happy that i havent affected the car and giving me another battery)

is that how high output alternators work??

if so then how would i install one and would it fit in the same place of the old one and simply have wiring to 2 batteries instead of one,

because i was planning on getting a cap of 10 farad and is about 150$. might as well buy an alternator--- that is if it works the way i think it does,


one other question. will a 1000.1 and a 13w7 work on a stock system???

i dont play my music loud all the time.. just for under a minute max. i was thinking i wire the 13w7 and when i can i will upgrade electrical. but will it work in the first place or will it trip of?


cheers.
 

Gold Member
Username: Ctmike

Ct.

Post Number: 6671
Registered: Feb-06
the zx1000.1 and w7 should work fine off stock electrical. after getting it installed just watch for lights dimming (easiest sign). but you shouldn't have anything to worry about.

and definately upgrade the alt. if you can, especially before buying a cap.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 18
Registered: Apr-09
ok guys..
final setup.. want everyones opinion..

1- Head unit- havent decided- will be something like pioneer with 4 volt 3 preouts.

2- monster cable-tsunami

3- 10 farad capacitor- tsunami ( i know i know but impossible to change alternator without affecting warranty so will stick to capacitor)

4- hertz mlk 2 comps- 150 watts x 4.

5- kicker 1000.1 mono block

6- jl 12w7 750 watt at 3 ohms.

7- custom bandpass enclosure

what do u guys think honestly apart from the capacitor issue???


and does anyone have specs of where i can get dimensions for bandpass????

i dont trust builders here as they dont know much. they will build a random bandpass. if i give them specs to build it they can build according to that.

if anyone of u guys can let me know how to get the specs for highest spl out of the 12w7 let me know then ill get it properly built out here..


thanks and let me know what you think of the setup.

500 watts midrange and 750 watts bass... is that a good combi for sql?

cheers.
 

Gold Member
Username: Snowball123

West Allis, WI

Post Number: 2696
Registered: Oct-07
no cap.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jaimish

Post Number: 19
Registered: Apr-09
snow...

ok u know what. everyone is telling me i should not get a cap.. so i wont. now im left with a zx 1000.1 and a 12w7. i cant change anything to do with stock electrical because of my warranty..


snow now what happenes when i hit a low note on higher volume???

will my battery manage to take it on stock electrical and no cap.. not even a 2 farad???


please give me an explanation rather that just saying


no cap..
 

Gold Member
Username: Snowball123

West Allis, WI

Post Number: 2697
Registered: Oct-07
it'll put more stress on your electrical rather than help it out. Might as well save that money and put it towards a new alt or battery.
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