13W7 trouble... Help!
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New member Username: Jordon32990Post Number: 7 Registered: Mar-09 | I just recently bought a 13W7. I tested both coils. both good. Let it play free air for a moment to make sure it worked before buying it. It was used but in excellent shape. The problem... I hooked it up to my JL 1000, and it sounded good until I turned up the volume and when it hit high bass the sub mad a popping sound or a bottom out type of noise. When I turned it down, it still sounded fine. I pushed on the cone again and no scratch noises. Please tell me whats wrong. I hooked my multimeter up to the speaker terminals and it was reading crazy numbers ranging from .7 to 300. ??????????????? I could really use some help. I just hope I didn't blow it somehow.  Thanks in advance! |
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Gold Member Username: RideredderCornell, IL USA Post Number: 1589 Registered: Sep-05 | Sounds like you blew a coil. What did they read before? I had the same problem with one of my subs before, one of the coils unwound. One coil read normal, the other was in the upper 300's. https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/414560.html |
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Gold Member Username: RideredderCornell, IL USA Post Number: 1590 Registered: Sep-05 | http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277575&highlight=john+pierce |
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New member Username: Jordon32990Post Number: 8 Registered: Mar-09 | Dang, Before I bought it one read 1.3, the other was around the same. I don't know how I managed to blow it. I was giving it optimum power with the JL 1000. Could wiring have caused this? |
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Gold Member Username: Hittin1TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles... Post Number: 2983 Registered: May-07 | if it is your coil, it sounds like the coil was on its way out (he likely lit em up-had em smokin'-more than once).. Likely the reason he sold it.. How much did he charge you for the sub? |
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New member Username: Jordon32990Post Number: 9 Registered: Mar-09 | $400 and it looked new. Coils tested good then. And test good now. I'm totally lost on this one. Could the cone be the culprit? Ha, i'm swinging blind on what is wrong with it.  (Both readout at 1.3) |
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Gold Member Username: Hittin1TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles... Post Number: 2985 Registered: May-07 | who did you buy it from? Were they using it personally or did they get it and pass it on to you? Did you know them personally? As far a it reading fine now, it likely was reading fine when you said the readings were fluctuating. Sometimes it can be tricky getting an accurate reading. I usually stick the probe into the push terminal and jiggle it a lil if needed. Now I just want to ask a quick question? What box are you using? Prefab or a poorly built box can make the noise that you are referring too. Knock on all sides of the enclosure and see if one of the sides isn't blown out. You would easily be able to hear the difference in sound when knockin on the box and finding a bad/loose/busted spot with the enclosure( hope that makes sense). Knock firmly and try to make sure you hit around all the joints of the box as well.. |
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Gold Member Username: Hittin1TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles... Post Number: 2986 Registered: May-07 | just noticed the pic, and I see you do the same with the probe.. like I said, sometimes you have to barely move it around to get it to hold steady. It seems to me, the better quality DMM I am using, the harder it is to get a steady reading. Thats why I keep my $20 DMM with me in my ride, and the $80 one at home on my workbench. |
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New member Username: Jordon32990Post Number: 10 Registered: Mar-09 | It was a screw terminal, I screwed it firmly in there. I have pulled all the wiring and am about to start over. As for the box it was supposedly a "custom built box from Ovations." It could be the box. Makes sense. I bought it from a guy I got into contact with through "Craigslist.com" He had 3 of them that he said he didn't use very often. I'll rewire, ohm test, knock on wood and let you know what comes of it. Thanks for bearing with me on this. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jordon32990Post Number: 11 Registered: Mar-09 | The terminal that was giving me shady reading was the screw down terminal on the box. Figured it could possibly be shady wiring. At a glance it seemed fine, but I guess its better to do it myself then let someone before me do it. |
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Gold Member Username: Hittin1TEAM REVOLUTIONLake Charles... Post Number: 2987 Registered: May-07 | not a problem. When using box terminals cups(i usually don't for that reason), I squeeze to connectors with pliers to insure a tight fit. I would rather hook subs directly to the amp and leave out the unneeded and sometimes problematic terminal cup. But some swear by em, so it's a personal preference. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jordon32990Post Number: 12 Registered: Mar-09 | Rewired it all up. Found out it was parrallel wired. The JL amp isn't even stable at .75 ohm. Now its reading 2.5 ohm. Much better. Now its time for the music test and I hope it sounds right. |
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Silver Member Username: M0nstarToledo, OH U.S. Post Number: 237 Registered: Dec-08 | i did not know that the W7s came in Dual 1.5 i thought they were D3. hmm. learn something new every day. |
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Bronze Member Username: Jordon32990Post Number: 13 Registered: Mar-09 | Yeahp, Dual 1.5 ohm. Makes the math little bit trickier that way. Btw, the problem has been resolved, it was the wiring. Never trust someone else's wiring is the lesson for the day. haha Thanks for all the input! |
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Gold Member Username: Skibum12189Cleveland Post Number: 3149 Registered: Mar-06 | 13w7s are d1.5 12w7s are d3 |
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Bronze Member Username: Jordon32990Post Number: 14 Registered: Mar-09 | I had a 12W7 before I upgraded to the 13. It was single 3 ohm. |
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Gold Member Username: Skibum12189Cleveland Post Number: 3150 Registered: Mar-06 | thats my bad, youre right the 12 are just single 3 ohm but the 13s are dual 1.5 |
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