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Bronze Member Username: ChrisilverPost Number: 52 Registered: Jul-08 | When your shopping for a component set, the rms rating stated is for the woofer and tweeter together right? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, MI USA Post Number: 12339 Registered: Dec-03 | yes. it's a combined wattage, pretty much. they are usually wired in parallel so each speaker gets the rated power of the amplifier at their given load. some comp sets use an 8 ohm tweeter to compensate for this so the tweeter isn't too bright. please also read this: http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/speakerpwr.html it's a short note on power handling ratings. for most component sets, 50-75 watts RMS per channel is all you really need. In some rare cases like with some 3-way comp sets, you want more, like 120-150 watts RMS, but not often will you need that unless your only goal is SPL competition. |
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Bronze Member Username: ChrisilverPost Number: 53 Registered: Jul-08 | Good info, thanks Glasswolf So like a 2 x 60 W amp for a woofer/tweeter front stage |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, MI USA Post Number: 12350 Registered: Dec-03 | should do just fine. I run a SQ competition setup with a 3-way front stage (8" midbass, 4" mid, 1" tweeter) and drive it with 125 watts RMS. I've run 2 way sets with about the same 60 watts and they sounded terrific. just set the high pass filter , slope, and input sensitivity properly on the amp to avoid clipping, and bottoming out and they'll do great... then use a sub to cover the low end, below the comps. |
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Bronze Member Username: ChrisilverPost Number: 54 Registered: Jul-08 | Ive got the sub stage covered, I spent a few months researching, designing and installing the low hertz, but now I need mids and highs that can keep up. I'm a bit stuck whether to just focus on the the front speakers and keep the stock rear decks (or take them out totally and have no rear fill), or upgrade all four. Everyone says that all you need is a good front stage, but Ive been messing with the fader and I like it best right in the middle, maybe that's just because the stock door speakers suck. I'm afraid that if I just get a two channel amp and ditch the rear decks that I wont like it and then ill be in a crummy situation. This is in a civic coupe; power, space, and money are all pretty tight |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, MI USA Post Number: 12352 Registered: Dec-03 | http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/rearfill.html |
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Gold Member Username: Nd4spd18Philadelphia, PA Post Number: 9519 Registered: Jul-06 | Not all components with high power raings do well on low power. I've used 2 ways that were not loud enough on 100w, 200w made the difference. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, MI USA Post Number: 12358 Registered: Dec-03 | very inefficient speakers with a very low sensitivity rating will be that way, yes. |
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New member Username: ShinzumonkWichita, KS USA Post Number: 3 Registered: Jan-09 | If the sensitivity of your choice front drops below about 87 dB you might think about bumping it to around 75 or 100 W but if you stick with a component set above that sensitivity anything above 50 W within the power handling range will do just fine... to expound on what GW said |
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Bronze Member Username: ChrisilverPost Number: 55 Registered: Jul-08 | I know you guys are probably sick of this question, but could you throw me ideas for decent component sets? 50-70 watts and lets say around a $250 budget for now, and suggestions for an amp <$180 I already have a sub in the system, and the head unit is an alpine ida x100 Seems like there's a pretty big fan base for CDT on this forum Thanks |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, MI USA Post Number: 12365 Registered: Dec-03 | CDT makes some good stuff, yes. Look at Focal. Infinity is good if you can find a deal on the Kappa or Kappa Perfects. Avoid the Reference series though. The problem with speakers is that it's very subjective, and often best left to the ears of the listener in question, namely you. Best to audition component sets and choose one that appeals to your ears and wallet. With the amp, anything by a DEI owned company is usually in a decent price range, and a solid performer. PPI, Orion, Directed, DEI, Viper, a/d/s, etc.. good starting point at least. Alpine has some nice amps too. |
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Gold Member Username: Nd4spd18Philadelphia, PA Post Number: 9533 Registered: Jul-06 | I am a big fan of CDT speakers and Alpine amps in terms of quality and performance vs cost. And I hate infinity, some people like the sound of them but I just don't understand how. |
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Silver Member Username: DjhasanicesoundsystemVista, Ca Usa Post Number: 179 Registered: Feb-07 | do you need an amp for your component set or could you run it off the head unit??? |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, MI USA Post Number: 12374 Registered: Dec-03 | you can run just about anything from a head unit, but it's never going to sound anywhere close to as good as it will with a proper amplifier. head units only put out about 10-15 watts per channel, no matter what they try to tell you they do. |
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Silver Member Username: DjhasanicesoundsystemVista, Ca Usa Post Number: 180 Registered: Feb-07 | o ok but what type of amp to use, already have a mono one but it already makes everything dim when the bass hits with the subwoofers. whats a good set of 5.25" components and an amp for it.will i need another battery or a capacitor?!?!?! |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, MI USA Post Number: 12376 Registered: Dec-03 | http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/capacitors.html http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/charging.html some info on caps and batteries.. and why they won't help. look at any decent 2 channel amp for the fronts, or 4 channel amp if you want front and rear cabin speakers. Look for something in the 40-80 watts per channel RMS at 4 ohms range. the mono sub amp you have will draw a lot more current than the amp for mids and highs, so the additional amp will not put nearly as much strain on your system as that big sub amp does. |
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New member Username: AtreidiesPost Number: 10 Registered: Mar-09 | So a component set with 150w RMS mids and 50w tweets would step down the wattage to the tweets through the supplied crossover? Was looking at several sets. All had 4 ohm mids and 4 ohm tweets. Definitely don't want 150w going to my tweets. |
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Platinum Member Username: Nd4spd18Philadelphia, PA Post Number: 10118 Registered: Jul-06 | The crossover supplied with the components will handle everything. Tweeters wouldn't last a half second with 150w on them haha. |