Based off of many comments and questions on this site, I purchased the AQ1200D amp to push my son's new RE SX15 sub (2 voice coils 2 ohm.) Now the hookup. Let me know if I am on the right track. The amp has 2 + and 2 - outputs. The box has one + and one - input. I will put both + and both - from the amp to the box by twisting them together. Next I will connect 1 + to one of the VC + and one of the - to the other VC - terminal. I will also connect the VC's +'s and -'s using 10 guage speaker wire. I believe this is the paralell connection. Is this the proper setup for running at 1 ohm? I hope i can just put the wires in the slots of the terminals inside the subs and tighten down with the screws. thanks for your help.
Thanks for the diagramn. His new system gives me a little leverage with his grades and sports. I'll gladly take his car and listen to Pink Floyd. It would kill him; therefore his grades should stay okay. Plus they did not have quite the components when I was his age. Alright, you know me from previous posts before Xmas. I tend to overkill with questions. Why does the amp have two sets of terminals? Is it not a left right channel configuration, or is for multiple subs? And we need to run the amp at 1ohm; therefore, I thought wiring parallel was the way to go, or does the above diagramn basically do the same thing? And lastly, what would happen if you did run both terminals from the amp to the box?
I already answered the question of what the other teminals are for..
quote:
side note... the other speaker terminals are internally paralleled and are there for convience and ease of use..
M.S.'s diagram is an 1 ohm load.
"And lastly, what would happen if you did run both terminals from the amp to the box?"
you can wire one set of speaker wire from one v.c(+ to + \- to -) to one set pos and neg on amp and do the same thing to the other v.c. and speaker terminal- hence internally paralleled to acheive same 1 ohm load...
best way IMO is to make a jumper wire for your sub.
run a wire from pos. to other pos. on sub voice coils and run a wire from neg. to neg on back of sub. then run a speaker wire from one of the v.c. to either amp speaker terminals. (obviously + to + and - to -)
Thanks. My question about the other terminals was about the amp, not the sub. You explained it very well. Why do you like the jumper wire on the subs terminals, rather than running it the way shown on the above diagramn?
so was my answer. the amp speaker terminals are internally paralleled(pos to pos and neg to neg inside of amp)
just easier to do and i dont use box speaker terminals. i drill a hole in box and run direct wires from amp to sub. then silicone hole. less chance for loose connection and i use 8 ga. wire for subs
That makes more sense, direct to the sub from the amp. Thanks, I'll do that. Why do you like the jumper wire on the subs terminals, rather than running it the way shown on the above diagramn?
I have a great understanding of the connection now. Thanks. Currently, my son's car has an Audio Planet 400w amp for his two Kicker crv12" subs and an Audio Planet 200w amp for the door speakers. I am not sure what type of wire or fuse stregth the audio place used when wiring it initially. I was going to just remove the 200w amp and replace it with the 400w amp for the door speakers, Boston Acoustic, round maybe 5" diameter 2 way speakers. I was going to replace the 400w Audio Planet with his new AQ1200D amp. Now I am wondering about the proper wire gauge and fuses. How can I tell by looking at the wire and fuses if I can just leave what is already in place alone, or do I need to replace the above with a higher grade, due to the increased amp power?
In addition to the above, I have been reading alot about upgrading the "Big 3." Is this really necessary with the AQ1200D? I was thinking about paralelling another smaller battery to basically act as a capacitor and provide a little more current to the electrical system.
I feel much better now.