Subwoofer that will run on stock electrical

 

Bronze Member
Username: Whitewonder

Post Number: 37
Registered: Sep-06
Working on planning a system for my Mazda3, right now looking into CDT-61's or comparable for front speakers, and completely nixing rear speakers. I would like to get a subwoofer as well but changing the electrical is outside my budget, so I would like to know what would be a good SQ option on a budget. I was thinking 400 watts would be more than safe on stock electrical, but I figure you guys will know more than I will. Mazda3 has a 90amp alternator.
 

Gold Member
Username: Stateprop486

PA

Post Number: 1718
Registered: Jan-08
you can run up to 1000 watts without upgrading your electrical. i was running a zx1000.1 on an 80amp alt and it was fine.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ducka

Houghton and/or Macomb, MI United States

Post Number: 831
Registered: Jan-08
you should be able to get to about 1000wrms without having to upgrade.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Whitewonder

Post Number: 38
Registered: Sep-06
So if I am running about 300 watts to a component set what would you guys recommend for a sub while keeping it within the limits on stock electrical? Aside from a JL 12w6v2, which I can't afford.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 149.5 DBsTrinidad & T...

Post Number: 14483
Registered: Jul-05
what u can do is run a 4chan amp & bridge chan3&4 to play a sub but i dont know if that will be enough bass 4u but 4 a pure sq set its sufficient ...
 

Gold Member
Username: Dustin3

Tigard, OR U.S.

Post Number: 4860
Registered: Oct-05
still hittin the forums hard i see rovin. i'v missed being on here!
 

Gold Member
Username: Somedonniedude

Illinois Braaap MX

Post Number: 2177
Registered: May-07
What's your budget for sub+amp? Any size preference?
 

Silver Member
Username: Quirky

SA, Texas

Post Number: 349
Registered: Feb-07
I'm surviving well on my stock electrical system running 1200wrms to my sub and 340wrms to my comps (granted many would say I'm stretching the limits). Stay out of JL audio; you can do just as good if not better if you stick to the 'under ground brands'.
 

Gold Member
Username: Th3pwn3r

I compensate...

Post Number: 8972
Registered: Jul-06
For you guys saying you can run up to "1000 watts" on stock electrical...get it right. Imagine a very current hungry and inefficient amplifier. Stock electrical isn't going to cut it. That being said, you need to find an amplifier that's going to run safely within the amperage levels that your alternator can provide without too much strain. Factor in headlights, heat, air conditioning or whatever accessories that you might run in your vehicle and see what you have left over for your amplifier. On the flipside just because you have an amplifier that produces ten thousand watts it doesn't mean you have to play it full blast. Use the power at your disposal with caution and you'll be fine.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nyyfan13

Yanks Fan USA

Post Number: 10804
Registered: Jul-06
Word to what Rob just mentioned. Also in addition to that since Rob mentioned efficiency, remember that Class D amps will be more efficient and easier on your electrical system as compared to a Class A/B amp. A Class A/B amp will deliver better SQ as compared to the Class D but it really won't or isn't that noticeable to most people, when hooked up to a subwoofer of course. I'm assuming the OP does not know the difference between class d and class a/b amps.
 

Platinum Member
Username: James1115

Use a simple...

Post Number: 10718
Registered: Dec-04
couldn't have said it better myself Rob! Just use a reputable class d for your subs and a class a/b for your mids and highs. A decent amp for all around is a kicker zx700.5 it will do 300 to your mids and highs and 400 to your sub, you shouldn't need much more then that.
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