So i recently purchased a new JL 300.2 v2 amplifier to power my JL w6. When i turned the volume up on a heavy bass song, the subs cut out.
The green power light is blinking now every 4-5 seconds and there is no sound out of the sub. I turned down the gain (input sensitivity) and it played quietly until i turned it up and it shut off again, causing the light to start blinking once more. Ive checked all fuses, wiring, and made sure the ground was in tact.
Does anyone know what could be wrong? I would hate to think I wasted all that money.. Anyone? Your help would be greatly appreciated..
Aright, well i took my amp out and put it in my friends car. It worked perfectly fine with the whole set up, i even changed the ohms to put it back in my car... and even after all of that it still did the same thing. It must be something with the power then right?
also another thing, the amp power light still blinks even after i take the speaker wires out. Im sure its the power.. but how can i fix that, it seems fine at the battery.. do i need a capacitor
when u got the music on test the voltage at both the amp side of the power wires and the battery side see if it drops under 12.8~ if it is u need more power.... what kinda car is it i can find out ur alternator size.. and what gauge power wire u using
I drive a volvo s40 04' I used to have an alpine m450.. and after that i temp. had a RF 225.2 and every now and then i would go in my car turn the ac up and pound my beats with the car on in the driveway(for about 5 months since my license was suspended)... im guessing bad idea?
Im assuming that those amps barely gave out anything close to the raw 300W of the JL amp. The lights inside my car and even on the dash, would dim on the heavy notes. I didnt think that the amp would be as hot as it was either.. do you think a capacitor would be the solution?
oh and one more thing i checked the voltage at the battery when the car was off and stayed it at 12.3-12.5V. I wanted autozone to check it while my car was on but for some reason they would not do it...
where the sounds off when u did that test? A normal battery sits at 12.6-12.8V anything under that with all power loads off and your battery is having problems. WIth the car on you shold still be about 12.6~ autozone should check it.. if there giving u a problem and wont do it you can get a cheap DMM for like 20-30$.
The battery could have took a dump while sitting so long. If its a wetcell battery those batterys dont get the longest life but look into drycell if you need to replace your battery like a optima or somthing would work alot better better then wetcell with systems (make sure you get a deepcycle, thinks that the optima yellow tops)