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Silver Member Username: 71_chevellePost Number: 103 Registered: May-08 | I was wondering if i should put a battery isolator in and would it be able to handle the amps? I'm not too sure how the power rating works on them. i'm thinking about putting a yellow top optima under the hood and i have a kinetik HC800 in the trunk powering two amps a AG650 Zapco 6 channel amp rated at 75 amps and a Kicker ZX2500.1 rated at 300 amps. The rating on the battery isolator is 200 amps but is that just referring to the amps from the alt or what the amplifiers pull through the power line? http://www.darvex.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SGP32&Product_C ount=1 here's a link to a batt isolator that i have found. i think the highest is 200 amps but i do not know if that will work or not? Or if there are any other batt isolators that will work? Thank you!! |
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Gold Member Username: Nd4spd18Northwest PA Post Number: 8443 Registered: Jul-06 | That is NOT an isolator, it's a relay...... stay away from those. On a real isolator (not a relay) the amperage rating refers to the current supplied from the alternator, so if your alternator is 200 amps or less a 200 amp will work, like this: http://www.motorcityreman.com/2-240.html You'd be a lot better off just putting a good battery in front and be done with it though. |
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Gold Member Username: Th3pwn3rI compensate... Post Number: 8703 Registered: Jul-06 | Do you even have a 300+amp alternator? The amps can't pull what isn't there is my point. |
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Silver Member Username: 71_chevellePost Number: 104 Registered: May-08 | oh ok thank you M.S.!! so the link you gave was for a battery isolator? and i would hook up the two batteries and the alternator to it and be able to isolate one of the batteries? and what good battery did you have in mind that i just put under the hood and call it good that will supply the necessary power needed? |
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Silver Member Username: 71_chevellePost Number: 105 Registered: May-08 | Well i was looking into a 350 amp alt FatChicks but not sure if i'm going to get it. But doesn't the power get compensated from the battery like if your alt was only 140 amps then a 300 amp alt would pull the rest of the amps from your battery? so there is still 300 amps flowing through right? or wrong? |
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Gold Member Username: Nd4spd18Northwest PA Post Number: 8446 Registered: Jul-06 | Forget about the isolators and relays for a minute they work very differently. I would just put the biggest Odyssey or Kenitik battery you can fit under the hood and call it a day. I have an Odyssey 1500 and 200 amp alt supporting a system bigger than yours, although it could stand to have more power. With a true isolator like what I linked, you just have to get one rated higher than your alternator, it's that simple. An isolator is installed near the alternator and "splits" the current out to each battery. Relays are installed between the batteries and would have to rated 300+ amps to not cause any problems..... and even then they have their own set of issues. |
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Gold Member Username: Tatonka-[Team Audible Insanity]- Post Number: 2255 Registered: Mar-07 | I would do one step at a time first. First do the big3. Then right after that, add a pretty good size battery like a kenetic 2400 or a Power Master. Play your system like you would daily and check your voltage. If it is still dropping, then get a HO alt. I usually don't have a problem running 2-2.5k with stock alt and a extra battery. I ran one RD 1750.1 @ .35ohms and a kicker 350.4 forever with just a kenetic 2400 in the back. Got a friend of mine that has a stock 80amp alt and is running my old 1750.1 @ .35 ohms on my old sub with another kenetic 2400. |
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Silver Member Username: 71_chevellePost Number: 106 Registered: May-08 | Ohhh ok M.S. thank you for the information and i'll probably just get a big batt like you said |
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Silver Member Username: 71_chevellePost Number: 107 Registered: May-08 | Ya I think that is a very good idea Nick! I will take it in steps to see if it is even worthwhile to get a battery isolator |