ok i know my box is going to be bigger then the trunk opening so i was thinking will it be hard to build it right in the trunk or whats your alls recommendations.
oh, btw, i removed the backseat completely .. cut the top of the trunk metal a bit and bent it all upwards to give more clearance then i slide the two pieces in from the seat opening.. then i just bent that metal back down and put dynamat all across it so you'd never know ...
i'd assemble 2/3's of the box and put it in the trunk,then get those rubber sealers that refridgerators have, so that when u tighten up the rest of the box, i'll be airtight.
i had no leaks at all.. of course i cut it in the port so even if it leaked a little it would be no prob..
needless to say when it was time for it to come out i undid the sections holding it together but everything was together so good with the glue it had to be destroyed in pieces to get out
sounded great.. burped a 151.6dB @ 49hz with those two SX 15"s and two RE 35.1s
thinks for the pic's jack im think i might do it the way you did yours my neighbor has the same car so he knows how to remove the seats and im gonna ask him to show me how to do it on mine cuz i really ant to keep the back seats i like to stay looking stock
honestly I don't remember.. I want to say it was right around 40" wide.. it set up against the side of the trunk flush with only 0.5" inch on the passenger side to allow for wire.. it was as wide as I could go..
in order to get both pieces to align I had to remove the spare tire and everything in there to tilt on part in then force the other in and tilt them upward together
I could have gone only about 6" deeper before the whole trunk was filled..
1 amp was in the side cubby, the other along with a yellowtop was under the box where the spare tire used to be.. i built a quick board to fill the gap where the tire was, you can see it if you look in front of the box where the gap would have been
It still was not quite as big as needed.. after port/sub displacement I swear it was 5.4^3ft